This was crazy good. So much fun. Extremely kind to share all those tips for silhouettes from your beautiful images. Gotta love that clone tool. Thanks so much, Alyn.
This works if you take only one shoot, but how to do something's Ng similar if you are taking several pictures for the sky and ground to pile them in post?
Great videos my lens came this week 11-20 mm it will be on a R7 crop sensor now just wait for new moon and clear skies we are in hurricane season in Florida it will be hit or miss thanks for your inspiration
It’s quit a while I’m asking myself “how does he do that…?”. Indeed seems rather tricky not to fall when running to your position. Keep safe, I wouldn’t like you to fall. And obviously you don’t share my fear of heights, can’t imagine, me running towards a cliff in the dark… Thank you for this excellent tutorial with all tips included. And love your book...a real bible for astrophotography. A must have...
good video, thanks, I usually use my cactus v5 for trigger wireless my cameras since long years ago, small and very long distance devices, I was searching a cable for it in Sony and you clarify me a lot about this pixel trigger, thanks a lot!! :)
Hey Alyn, I'm shooting on a Sony zve-10 (aps-c) and currently my only lens is the Sigma 16mm 1.4. I'm thinking of getting the Sony 11 1.8 or the Sigma 18-50 2.8. I know the Sony will be a lot better for astrophotography at f1.8, but the sigma will be much more versatile for general use, and the longer focal length could be good for shooting star trails. Which one should I get? Also I use Sony imaging edge mobile on my phone in place of a remote and it works really well. Amazing video!
@@FallingPenguin Yeah, the a7c is a pretty good buy and has massive pixels for low light, but I don't want to use a crop lens on it, and I already bought extra batteries and an L-grip for my zve-10. Full frame lenses are a lot more expensive too.
I would get the 18-50 and an omegon minitrack lx quattro tracker. A tracked, stacked sky mosaic at 50mm which reproduces the 11mm focal length of the wide angle lens will be far superior to anything you can create with just an untracked 11mm lens. Of course it's more difficult to learn the techniques involved but if you do, you can create any fov you like and image quality will be incredible. Getting a tracker and learning stacked mosaics is probably the thing that will make the most difference out of anything you can change or upgrade in your photography. A well executed tracked, stacked mosaic on a stopped-down kit lens at f/5.6 will look much better than a single shot from a super expensive full frame camera and fast wide angle prime lens (e.g. a7iii with 14mm 1.8).
Great video Alyn Can you make a video how you blend your foreground images and sky images ?
Pages 557-9 in his large and excellent book, answers this question perfectly!
For the day will come when sky will clear up and Clouds will be gone ,I'll be capturing the stars from dusk till dawn.
Ooh, that one from Las Palmas... I really like that one!
This was crazy good. So much fun. Extremely kind to share all those tips for silhouettes from your beautiful images. Gotta love that clone tool. Thanks so much, Alyn.
Thank you very much.
Your the best thankyou 👀❤️🌍
Topaz AI sharpen on a duplicate layer and then a black mask so you can paint in the sharpness on the subject would work too.
This works if you take only one shoot, but how to do something's Ng similar if you are taking several pictures for the sky and ground to pile them in post?
Great videos my lens came this week 11-20 mm it will be on a R7 crop sensor now just wait for new moon and clear skies we are in hurricane season in Florida it will be hit or miss thanks for your inspiration
Great video
the tutorial i needed, great job
It’s quit a while I’m asking myself “how does he do that…?”.
Indeed seems rather tricky not to fall when running to your position. Keep safe, I wouldn’t like you to fall. And obviously you don’t share my fear of heights, can’t imagine, me running towards a cliff in the dark…
Thank you for this excellent tutorial with all tips included.
And love your book...a real bible for astrophotography. A must have...
good video, thanks, I usually use my cactus v5 for trigger wireless my cameras since long years ago, small and very long distance devices, I was searching a cable for it in Sony and you clarify me a lot about this pixel trigger, thanks a lot!! :)
When removing the blur have you tried "select subject">contract then clone stamp? It works for me and I don't have to worry about going too far over.
Turkey already influencing his stilye of beard😂 Great video Alyn!
Great video, as always. Personally I really love the LRT Pro Timer 3 by @lrtimelapse
Incredibly helpful that editing tutorial 🤙🏾!!
Nice video Alyn. Hope you're getting plenty of clear skies in Turkiye !
Hello Alyn, can you please do a tutorial for solar photography with and without a star tracker and how to use it?
The cloning and brushing part was extremely helpful! So simple, yet so effective. Thanks for sharing!
I keep wondering if you can snap astro photo using sony rx1r
This topic is precisely what I was looking for. Thanks for the useful tips 👍
Brilliant alun loved it just what I was looking for 👍
Excellent video as always dude thank you
Very cool tips in the post processing! Thanks
Alyn, stunning view, thanks
Hey Alyn, I'm shooting on a Sony zve-10 (aps-c) and currently my only lens is the Sigma 16mm 1.4. I'm thinking of getting the Sony 11 1.8 or the Sigma 18-50 2.8. I know the Sony will be a lot better for astrophotography at f1.8, but the sigma will be much more versatile for general use, and the longer focal length could be good for shooting star trails. Which one should I get? Also I use Sony imaging edge mobile on my phone in place of a remote and it works really well. Amazing video!
I would actually save for a full frame body. Your current lens is pretty good.
@@FallingPenguin Yeah, the a7c is a pretty good buy and has massive pixels for low light, but I don't want to use a crop lens on it, and I already bought extra batteries and an L-grip for my zve-10. Full frame lenses are a lot more expensive too.
I would get the 18-50 and an omegon minitrack lx quattro tracker. A tracked, stacked sky mosaic at 50mm which reproduces the 11mm focal length of the wide angle lens will be far superior to anything you can create with just an untracked 11mm lens. Of course it's more difficult to learn the techniques involved but if you do, you can create any fov you like and image quality will be incredible. Getting a tracker and learning stacked mosaics is probably the thing that will make the most difference out of anything you can change or upgrade in your photography. A well executed tracked, stacked mosaic on a stopped-down kit lens at f/5.6 will look much better than a single shot from a super expensive full frame camera and fast wide angle prime lens (e.g. a7iii with 14mm 1.8).
@@vincentlammert7003 thank you!
Look at that stash 💪😎
Fantastic video!!
Great video
Nice tips
Many thanks for the tips here Alyn - much appreciated