Why are you guys so rude? He is trying his best to be informative. He reminds me of my Asperger kid. What if this was your loved one? I found him informative. Thanks for the video.
Although this is old, I'm the guy in the video. It's a mild case of Tourette's syndrome. And honestly, I really should make an updated version of this video. Although I knew a thing or two, there is a lot of misinformation here as well. Sound dampening and deadening is a science like any other. High Fidelity sound as well as goal oriented applications largest engineering projects. How technical do you want to get? LOL
@@commonmancrypto1648 hey mate, I've just watched your video and found it incredibly insightful. I'll add that I'd love to see an updated video about the newer sound deadening technology as well as the increased technical information you've discovered.
Very informative, and you don't look nerdy with the shirt. You looked presentable and professional. Just like a job interview, what you look like is just as important to many as what comes out of your mouth. Good information.
Thank you for the lesson on dampening and deadening. I believe this to be one of the most non-biased truth and fact filled video's I've seen on the this topic. Especially notable is the closed cell foam / butyl adhesive floor/door/roof/fire wall application. Spot on my friend. I know this video is older, but people continue to put asphalt based roof patch in their cars in 2017... Coming from a music industry back ground, and an ear for room acoustics, this gentleman has it correct. Thanks.
Don't shoot the messenger people. This guy just saved me a LOT of trouble. I was gonna go with U Seal to sound deaden my car but thanks to this video I'm NOT gonna make that mistake. I live in Los Angeles where the summers get REALLY hot and the U Seal would definitely bleed out in that case. It really pays to do research and listen to/read a variety of reviews.
I used 2 1/2 inch thick Blue Hawk rubber mats from Lowes. It is a condensed rubber mat, a thick and effective sound barrier. And it is heavy, 22 lbs exactly for this 3' x 5' solid piece. Normally sold to be a door mat in large buildings, it only costs $22 per mat. It is not covered with aluminum foil, but no heat can pierce through this mammoth; So, it is an effective heat barrier. Although it won't melt, I still use an aluminum sheet heat barrier along the muffler line to prevent any problem. A single sheet covers more than my trunk entirely. It eliminates all noises, provides a protection against shocks and increases adherence so objects stay in place in the trunk. A Dynamat, GTMat or Road Kill solution would have cost me 5 times that much for a lesser result. I also paved most of the car floor below the carpet with it. I have no more noise at all.
I used the rubberized asphalt peel and stick rolls of underlayment when I put the roof on my small house. We did it in northern Maine in November. On a warm and sunny day, the stuff can become semi-liquid and somewhat squishy. On a cold day, it can become somewhat inelastic and brittle and it does smell in the warmer weather. I wouldn't use it on anything other than what it was designed for--roofs on a building.
I use sound deadener in addition to closed cell foam for reducing rattles, ambient noise, and reinforcing a speaker baffle for my front components and my 6x9's.
Wow... Very good points. I have more ambient road noise and exhaust drone than anything. Was going to order Rattle Trap for the floor, but I've still got a bit of research to do so my deadening project will be as effective as possible.
been in the autobody buz for along time rather then add weight to trunks doors, etc you can adjust the locks to close the panels to make a tighter seal. After all anything loose makes noise Sound waves bump in the road. With my doors I adjusted the locks 1/4 back Inside of my door panels have rocker guard (rubber) leaving the bottom lip inside untouched to let out any water the drain holes to prevent rust. The door panel frame is a x 4 8" strip of 2-way rubber tape and a sheet of plastic..added weight is around 2lbs cost me $35 CDN per door and it puts dynomat to shame
Thanks for the video. I used on my Saturn (which I just sold 3 days ago) was Quietcoat. Painted it onto all the metal surfaces. It can be painted or sprayed on, but it does have to cure overnight. Of course I then took 2" thick closed cell foam and put that under the fiber board carpeting they have behind the rear window. The air for the speakers could only go up and down. Now I'm just doing research for new speaker installation on my new car. Again thank you for your input.
Mass Loaded Vinyl is best for blocking sound. Closed Cell Foam works to reduce panel noises. And Aluminium covered rubber (aka Dynamat), prevents sheet metal resonances. They should generally be applied -> Dynamat -> CCF -> MLV in that order. MLV needs 100% coverage. Dynamat needs 25%-50% coverage. While CCF is used as needed between friction prone surfaces. As you can see, Dynamat (sound deadener) is only a small part of the overall process.
As far as trunk rattles, I can only see two issues other then junk in the trunk, rather the rubber seal has compressed to a point where the latch rattles or its when the adhesive that holds the inner frame to the outer skin fails, this also happens on roofs. Of course you could have a other issues under the car that causes rattles.
Ok a sound dampening material holds the panels together and softens the blow from sound waves onto the metal, if you know about shoring, it is the same idea. You spread the impact out over a larger surface area. Yes it adds weight but that is not the main abilty. As well as that the extra layers keep exterior noise outside of the vehicle. An additional benefit is that the sound dampening materials is that they also insulate the vehicle keeping temperatures stable as the insulation in your house. You can't just add a piece of metal onto your trunk and expect it to stop rattling. The metal is what is rattling against other metal.
Intelligent dude. Hes right about adding weight. Take a 1" nut and glue down with epoxy in the middle (and on the backside)of a panel and it makes alot of difference. Cool vid
Very informative video I have rattles that I hate & I have some weights. . . I see a project in my future. Do you Recommend a glue I am thinking gorilla glue or some kind of epoxy.
I work in the insulation industry/ commercial & industrial..foil facing in un-necessary in auto insulation, its used as a vapor barrier to protect against condensation. Joestl314 is right, closed cell foam..or plain rubber sheets...are most effective because each "closed cell" soaks the sound, because its a closed cell theres no where for it to go.It's basically rubber sheets..alot easier to apply as well
Thanks Bro! Gonna help with my Land Rover Defender. Sounds pretty much like a tank right now! Since I'm overseas I can't easily get the Dynamat stuff, so I'm going to go with closed cell foam. Cheers!
Nice info there. I was thinking of going for the roof deadening type, but after watching ( and listening to) you it really isn't the way to go. Again, thanks for the info!
Thank you for the informative video.I am still a lil confused if you are saying the Closed Cell Foam and something like dynamat are two different things?...like...should i layer with dynamat and then additionally with a closed cell foam?
thanks for the review, im on track with closecell foam to quiten road noise, (good reminder from you)rolls Royce use 2" slabs of this material in side their cars watch their assembly video here on you tube, BMW do a similar thing on the under side in plastic trays .
The spray sounds the best option to me, since you can do thin or thick as you please, and is cheap, two cans can go longs ways, I covered a 17 feet Dodge Ram van extended cab and on top I put a insulation board to install my carpet great results cool when hot warm when cold, and the best part; makes my old van run quiet like a brand new car would, so yes by far spray comes perfect
I've been doing a car audio blog for a little while now and much of it has been about sound damping. In my experience, and based on my casual research and conversions with experts, it's generally the consumers who are wrong. There is some poor information coming from manufacturers, but the biggest companies with the premium prices aren't out to rip people off. I don't believe every Second Skin product's claims, but their CLD is worth every penny.
cld sheets like dynamat besides adding weight add mass to lower the resonant freq of the sheet metal and therefore the whole vehicle bass CAN have higher volume output and lower resonant freq with cld since it isn't fighting the resonating sheet metal like a woofer out of phase they are NOT to get rid of rattles, if you have pieces rattling put some silicone in a syringe and give a little squirt behind the pieces that rattles. people spend hundreds of dollars trying to fight rattles when all they needed is a 1oz syringe full of silicone
Interesting. I appreciated the reasoning, I'd like to know more about how different materials diffuse or reflect different frequencies. I'm seeing a lot about fabric materials "absorbing" sound quiet well at all frequencies, but absorbing doesn't seem to kill lower frequencies like that of an engine and doesn't reflect the sound seemingly like aluminium or lead barriers. I wonder if it's more effective to reflect or absorb.. tricky. Thanks for the tips
Hey man, thanks for this video. I don't know if your info is right but I enjoyed watching you and meth or no meth... your still a good-looking guy and you made me laugh. I'm about to see what else you got on RUclips so I can watch you teach me something.
Gluing weights may do something but why would you want to glue many many kilograms of weights to your car when you can use something better? Read and learn. Adding weights is like changing the springs/mass of your car. Now while this will change the resonant frequency, it will still bounce up and down for a long time...UNLESS: you have a dampener - the shock absorber. The CLD (Constrained Layer Damping) acts like a shock absorber to dissipate vibration into heat by using the butyl glue/layer and foil backing. While increasing the mass of your car (adding weights) will smooth out the ride somewhat, it does not dissipate vibrations very well - it simply changes the frequency response. Adding a shock absorber allows you to damp the vibrations so they are stopped in as short a time as possible. This is what CLD damping products do. As for closed cell foam - the foam itself may block some frequencies but it is not optimal - this is where you use a dense barrier like MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). The foam decouples it from the panel which may still have some vibration, and blocks airborne frequencies more effectively than just foam. So, sound deadener that sticks onto the door panels etc. Is supposed to reduce vibrations, which can cut down on some road/engine noise, but to get the full effect you should use a CCF and MLV layer on the inner panels/floor. YOu can even go one step further and add some kind of stuffing as sound absorber for airborne sounds. As for asphalt - the butyl is probably better these days as it won't melt as easily and shouldn't stink. Roofing butyl tapes are generally not as effective as the real thing due to the types of rubber and adhesive, plus the fact they are generally thinner in both rubber and foil.
I know about soundproofing in general, not so much about car soundproofing specifically, though it's all the same in principle. If you're trying to keep sound from exiting or entering the car, you need extra mass (particularly dampened mass) which will line the entire inside of the vehicle. I've you're wanting to stop rattles, you need dampening between where two metal panels meet. Yes, heavier materials will have a different resonance frequency, and yes the weights you added to your hood acted like a clamp on the metal of the hood so that it didn't resonate as badly, but that's still just one part of the issue. I'm not vouching for any products or anything, just pointing out stuff. Also, foams don't deflect so much as they absorb (the sheet metal deflects more sound than the foam does). Soft closed cell foams have a sound absorption coefficient of around .5 or greater, meaning they allow about 50% of the sound to penetrate; while it is doing so, a bit of it's power is being absorbed and converted into heat. Closed cell foams seem to work better for low frequency, as they sort of behave like bass traps. Again, sort of. Oh, also if it adhered to the metal and not just sort of hanging there, it will help to dampen the resonance of the metal (the metal won't oscillate as severely nor for as long of a period of time).
Life hack: Eliminate ALL rattling by lining your doors with rubber car door edge guards. Less than $13 on Amazon to do your whole car, truck, or suv. Two kenwood 15's with a 13,000w JL audio amp. No matter what music I play, my Blazer doesn't bang an inch without a door open!
It's been more than 4 years ths review is made. can you please compare the latest products in the market, that would be very helpful. Thanks for the educating video, and I appreciate your effort to help others. regards, Sriram
Thank you so much for the informative and concise video - fuck anyone who is hating on this guy, he's just trying to help people understand the principals behind how these deadening products work.
wow fucking trolls... this dude posts an informative video and you guys rebut with insults. whether or not you found this video helpful has nothing to do with neurological pathologies he may or may not have. I was thinking about going the dynamat route but I will def seek out a less expensive solution now. thanks for the video man!
This guy doesn't even understand the function of a constrained layer damper! The butyl rubber adhesive is a bonding mechanism and spacer for the aluminum foil layer which is actually the damping component in this system. The foil resists the shear and compression forces that are placed upon it by vibrations in the substrate it's bonded to. This is why it's called a constrained layer damper. This system is more efficient than extensional dampers like the old Dynamat asphaltic/bitumen blend. As an Acoustical Engineer I specify and/or design damping products and our focus is on low mass, high efficiency systems. Try telling a Corvette Z06 owner that you're going to add 200 Lbs. to his vehicle to make it quiet!
Christian, Is low frequency road noise and exhaust the primary issues that you are having? You can shoot an email to me doug@cascadeaudio.com and I can suggest a system for your Mustang. We currently do the acoustic package for Shelby and the revology mustangs made in Florida.
Lol, you think that bit of foil does anything? It is there to provide a surface to push against so it can adhere to other surfaces and so that the butyl doesn't rub into anything that touches it. The dampener doesn't do anything other than add weight, join panels and patch small holes. If you want a sound barrier you need something like rubber suspended over something like open cell foam.
Cheers bro! just wondering, i have a loud exhaust, and was wondering if mattress underlay would also work as a sound barrier? Its made out of foam with an egg carton shape design, also thinking of using ordinary foam to block all the major holes that noise can seep through. You think its a good idea? or am i just being wayyy too cheap. Cheers mate
@joestl314 Another solution to rattles. mostly to do with the trunk is a high density foam or if you can find it, thick gel pads on the joints. like banging a rock against a pillow instead of another rock
What are you doing with them? I worked for GM, I was a technical engineer involving NVH, specifically transmission noise. I know what we used and who it came from, using asphalt based products don't do what people think they do.
Great video,Big Thanks. But i want to use deadened to Enhance Bass response from door speakers. (Trying not to add a sub to the car) Rockford Fosgate T265-S with 225 RMS amp pushing them. my thought is just to use peel & seal... to seal up all the opening and firm up /reduce flex on the door. Whats the thought on this? Does this stuff work for this?
Nice vid, think you did an excellent job dropping some of your knowledge and clearing up some of the falsities of cheap dampening materials and adhesives. You had mentioned you thought there were better subs then JL Audio. I have been a long time fan of that brand (since the 90's). Im just curious as to what brand or brands of subs you think can out perform JL and that are less expensive. I also have some DIY brands that you might be interested in looking into.
My problem is my exhaust note interfering with my bass from my sub. I think for this the dynamat would be best at keeping the exhaust wound from messing with the bass frequencies.
Thanks for sharing you thoughts. This was exactly what I was looking for! This is a 3yr old vid. Has anything changed in the materials used for sound deadening?
hell with them all my boy is a trip when we together and he ticks we look at each other and crack up cause i do it sometimes like it rubs off on me . but he is my best friend and i joke with him in fun. i hate haters who like to make people feel shitty cause of something they cannot control
lol i see his point but the deadening is much more effective. you're increasing the density of the wall the waves are bouncing off of. just like you wouldnt use ply wood to build a woofer enclosure, you use density wood to avoid losing pressure inside the chamber. the deadening is having the same effect by increasing the density of its walls. i completely polyfil'd and deadened my civic and the difference is incomparable. you cant glue weights when you have 5k rms in ur car, those weights arent going to hold. but he has a point. sit on ur trunk and the rattle nearly goes away. well when i did the deadening itwent away. yes i spent 23894234$ but it was awesome. (:
Surely using closed cell foam on top of something like Dynamat will help you project more of the sound through your speaker instead it escaping through other parts of your door?
I'm the guy in the video. Different account. I stopped buying subwoofers and started buying Bitcoin. :-) Anyway, you're absolutely right. Most of those products are designed to be used together. Although they have their independent benefits. Honestly, 11 years later, much of it is a waste of money. If your doors rattle, do some test.....what frequencies make it rattle.....the whole nine yards. be systematic about it. Many of these products have a HUGE markup. They WANT you to cover your car.......and a lot of the guys on youtube... 'they are sponsored to do it. (If you have the money, go for it.....they are great products. But a lot of "noobs" expect a miracle and end up spending a lot on something they didn't need.
Tear apart ANY IASCA Champ car youll see 100% coverage top to bottom front to back! Sound deadener turns the vibrations into heat. So if you're planning on winning a SQ comp, you will be using a Butyl rubber backed by aluminum with an adhesive applied. Followed by the open and closed cell foam pad on top of the first layer of dampening,and if you'er a stickler they make a pad with a LEAD sheet in the middle of it! Both of those install, total coverage you are set, These are the IASCA car's!
I'm thinking after seeing the samples of putting MegaMat from the trunk all the way to the rear seats(I have a 3 door seat ibiza), also I'll try to put some in the doors too(between the plastic and the door metals)
I understand where you're coming from, but the weight "idea" ("theory"?) is not valid in regards to the trunk rattle. The only way to reduce vibration by increasing weight is to uniformly increase that weight across the material, not by "weighing" down the trunk (which is not a stand-alone environment, at any rate, but is connected to the rest of the car - which is affected by the bass wavelengths as well) in random and far-spaced areas.
10 years later still Good Advice. You need to understand what he says. When he says Weight, is is talking about MASS. Just like in Home Audio, the Cabinets are VERY thick. DIYMA has had all sorts of FLAME wars with how or what to go with. My Pro TIP? BUY AMERICAN PRODUCTS if you can, or Local if possible. Just Don't be a "Big Dummy" about it. Also, this dude in the video? His sisters name is GRETTA! :-) (The Tisum Clan will get this) Peave out and enjoy your ride!
Waiting for FatMat samples, RattleTrap and MegaMat (although I'll use MegaMat because RattleTrap isn't sticky enough as I saw in some review, also contains asphalt but the sample can't change so I'll get both samples.). The MegaMat is 1.8mm, 194g/sq ft.
Thanks for the video I hate reading comments from people who don't know anything about what they're talking about but spew incorrect information everywhere So an example of closed cell foam, is that like Polyethylene?
Okay so I have a question. I am currently in the middle of a build to put 2 18 inch subwoofers in the bed and 4 12s behind my seats in my truck. I was thinking about coating my campershell with sound deadener to try and help with the vibrations so my campershell would not start cracking. (It is fiberglass) I do not care about the noise of the rattle, I just need enough vibration control to keep it from breaking. Would gluing weights to it fix this? I feel like it would but I want to double check
hey thanks for the info, I leaned alot. 1 thing I don't understand is... do u have to deaden the car or just the trunk? I have a 98 gs300 with a 15" kicker comp and I blast my base alot. so what should I do to stop the plate n trunk from rattling
@Neversnitch78 I have a mild case of Tourette Syndrome and it causes me to have weird facial expressions. I'll be nice and preemptively accept your coming apology because I refuse to believe that someone would resort to throwing random insults on the internet. Oh how low your self esteem must be. Good luck kind sir. :-)
Why are you guys so rude? He is trying his best to be informative. He reminds me of my Asperger kid. What if this was your loved one?
I found him informative.
Thanks for the video.
I think it's just that there Tourettes.
Dudes wired as fuck
Although this is old, I'm the guy in the video. It's a mild case of Tourette's syndrome. And honestly, I really should make an updated version of this video. Although I knew a thing or two, there is a lot of misinformation here as well. Sound dampening and deadening is a science like any other. High Fidelity sound as well as goal oriented applications largest engineering projects. How technical do you want to get? LOL
@@commonmancrypto1648 I just watched this and would watch an updated version.
@@commonmancrypto1648 hey mate, I've just watched your video and found it incredibly insightful. I'll add that I'd love to see an updated video about the newer sound deadening technology as well as the increased technical information you've discovered.
Very informative, and you don't look nerdy with the shirt. You looked presentable and professional. Just like a job interview, what you look like is just as important to many as what comes out of your mouth. Good information.
Thank you for the lesson on dampening and deadening. I believe this to be one of the most non-biased truth and fact filled video's I've seen on the this topic. Especially notable is the closed cell foam / butyl adhesive floor/door/roof/fire wall application. Spot on my friend. I know this video is older, but people continue to put asphalt based roof patch in their cars in 2017... Coming from a music industry back ground, and an ear for room acoustics, this gentleman has it correct. Thanks.
Don't shoot the messenger people. This guy just saved me a LOT of trouble. I was gonna go with U Seal to sound deaden my car but thanks to this video I'm NOT gonna make that mistake. I live in Los Angeles where the summers get REALLY hot and the U Seal would definitely bleed out in that case. It really pays to do research and listen to/read a variety of reviews.
This is the most informative video on sound dampening product after browsing RUclips for over 40 minutes. Great job!!
Thanks for the information, I can see your passion for wanting to help others. May the lord be with you man.
I used 2 1/2 inch thick Blue Hawk rubber mats from Lowes. It is a condensed rubber mat, a thick and effective sound barrier. And it is heavy, 22 lbs exactly for this 3' x 5' solid piece. Normally sold to be a door mat in large buildings, it only costs $22 per mat. It is not covered with aluminum foil, but no heat can pierce through this mammoth; So, it is an effective heat barrier. Although it won't melt, I still use an aluminum sheet heat barrier along the muffler line to prevent any problem. A single sheet covers more than my trunk entirely. It eliminates all noises, provides a protection against shocks and increases adherence so objects stay in place in the trunk. A Dynamat, GTMat or Road Kill solution would have cost me 5 times that much for a lesser result. I also paved most of the car floor below the carpet with it. I have no more noise at all.
Best video about understanding SQL the right way and how to get it done without screwin up a car. Very well spoken thanks for the vid.
I love your example of subwoofer sheet metal rattle sounds, it’s spot on!!
I used the rubberized asphalt peel and stick rolls of underlayment when I put the roof on my small house. We did it in northern Maine in November. On a warm and sunny day, the stuff can become semi-liquid and somewhat squishy. On a cold day, it can become somewhat inelastic and brittle and it does smell in the warmer weather. I wouldn't use it on anything other than what it was designed for--roofs on a building.
I use sound deadener in addition to closed cell foam for reducing rattles, ambient noise, and reinforcing a speaker baffle for my front components and my 6x9's.
I like to hear my FORD rattle! It makes me feel YOUNG AGAIN!
Very informative, thanks!
Wow... Very good points. I have more ambient road noise and exhaust drone than anything. Was going to order Rattle Trap for the floor, but I've still got a bit of research to do so my deadening project will be as effective as possible.
This is one of the best teaching video on sound deadening and sound proofing. Great job man !
thanks for the info, and props for handling jerk posts so calmly, being the better man isn't easy.
been in the autobody buz for along time rather then add weight to trunks doors, etc you can adjust the locks to close the panels to make a tighter seal. After all anything loose makes noise Sound waves bump in the road. With my doors I adjusted the locks 1/4 back Inside of my door panels have rocker guard (rubber) leaving the bottom lip inside untouched to let out any water the drain holes to prevent rust. The door panel frame is a x 4 8" strip of 2-way rubber tape and a sheet of plastic..added weight is around 2lbs cost me $35 CDN per door and it puts dynomat to shame
all this negativity come from those ripping people off with bull shit remedies, I am a sound engineer and this guy makes complete sense
Thanks for the video. I used on my Saturn (which I just sold 3 days ago) was Quietcoat. Painted it onto all the metal surfaces. It can be painted or sprayed on, but it does have to cure overnight. Of course I then took 2" thick closed cell foam and put that under the fiber board carpeting they have behind the rear window. The air for the speakers could only go up and down.
Now I'm just doing research for new speaker installation on my new car. Again thank you for your input.
Mass Loaded Vinyl is best for blocking sound. Closed Cell Foam works to reduce panel noises. And Aluminium covered rubber (aka Dynamat), prevents sheet metal resonances.
They should generally be applied -> Dynamat -> CCF -> MLV in that order. MLV needs 100% coverage. Dynamat needs 25%-50% coverage. While CCF is used as needed between friction prone surfaces.
As you can see, Dynamat (sound deadener) is only a small part of the overall process.
It was a really good video, especially at 2:42
Answered near every question I had. GREAT VIDEO! Thanks for helping me out with my research. :)
people say meth fuck em dude you made a good video thanks for the help dude
Very informative vid thanks from the U.K
You have a very good flow of speech. The train of logic is easy to follow. I enjoyed this video very much. Appreciate it!
As far as trunk rattles, I can only see two issues other then junk in the trunk, rather the rubber seal has compressed to a point where the latch rattles or its when the adhesive that holds the inner frame to the outer skin fails, this also happens on roofs.
Of course you could have a other issues under the car that causes rattles.
Ok a sound dampening material holds the panels together and softens the blow from sound waves onto the metal, if you know about shoring, it is the same idea. You spread the impact out over a larger surface area. Yes it adds weight but that is not the main abilty. As well as that the extra layers keep exterior noise outside of the vehicle. An additional benefit is that the sound dampening materials is that they also insulate the vehicle keeping temperatures stable as the insulation in your house.
You can't just add a piece of metal onto your trunk and expect it to stop rattling. The metal is what is rattling against other metal.
2:42 Best sound on the internet!!! lol
stewnta it he actually sounded like me car trunk
😂😂😂😂😂😂
I hit subscribe after I heard that reproduction of a rattly trunk. This man must know what he's talking about lol!
Intelligent dude. Hes right about adding weight. Take a 1" nut and glue down with epoxy in the middle (and on the backside)of a panel and it makes alot of difference. Cool vid
Very informative video I have rattles that I hate & I have some weights. . . I see a project in my future. Do you Recommend a glue I am thinking gorilla glue or some kind of epoxy.
that's a very good idea adding balist to your trunk lid! I never thought of that I'm a give it a shot thx keep em comin!
I work in the insulation industry/ commercial & industrial..foil facing in un-necessary in auto insulation, its used as a vapor barrier to protect against condensation. Joestl314 is right, closed cell foam..or plain rubber sheets...are most effective because each "closed cell" soaks the sound, because its a closed cell theres no where for it to go.It's basically rubber sheets..alot easier to apply as well
Thanks Bro! Gonna help with my Land Rover Defender. Sounds pretty much like a tank right now! Since I'm overseas I can't easily get the Dynamat stuff, so I'm going to go with closed cell foam. Cheers!
Nice info there. I was thinking of going for the roof deadening type, but after watching ( and listening to) you it really isn't the way to go. Again, thanks for the info!
Thank you for the informative video.I am still a lil confused if you are saying the Closed Cell Foam and something like dynamat are two different things?...like...should i layer with dynamat and then additionally with a closed cell foam?
Adithya Behara
Very informative video thank you
you video is extreamly informative do more
thanks for the review, im on track with closecell foam to quiten road noise, (good reminder from you)rolls Royce use 2" slabs of this material in side their cars watch their assembly video here on you tube, BMW do a similar thing on the under side in plastic trays .
The spray sounds the best option to me, since you can do thin or thick as you please, and is cheap, two cans can go longs ways, I covered a 17 feet Dodge Ram van extended cab and on top I put a insulation board to install my carpet great results cool when hot warm when cold, and the best part; makes my old van run quiet like a brand new car would, so yes by far spray comes perfect
You need to put affiliate links to products that you recommend. Make some money! You’re very knowledgeable about this stuff thanks.
Thanks for the video, very informative -- you're a natural teacher with great speaking skills.
I've been doing a car audio blog for a little while now and much of it has been about sound damping. In my experience, and based on my casual research and conversions with experts, it's generally the consumers who are wrong. There is some poor information coming from manufacturers, but the biggest companies with the premium prices aren't out to rip people off. I don't believe every Second Skin product's claims, but their CLD is worth every penny.
This video was informative but his face with the fart sound was legendary.
Youre fried bro😂😂😂
cld sheets like dynamat besides adding weight add mass to lower the resonant freq of the sheet metal and therefore the whole vehicle
bass CAN have higher volume output and lower resonant freq with cld since it isn't fighting the resonating sheet metal like a woofer out of phase
they are NOT to get rid of rattles, if you have pieces rattling put some silicone in a syringe and give a little squirt behind the pieces that rattles.
people spend hundreds of dollars trying to fight rattles when all they needed is a 1oz syringe full of silicone
Interesting. I appreciated the reasoning, I'd like to know more about how different materials diffuse or reflect different frequencies.
I'm seeing a lot about fabric materials "absorbing" sound quiet well at all frequencies, but absorbing doesn't seem to kill lower frequencies like that of an engine and doesn't reflect the sound seemingly like aluminium or lead barriers. I wonder if it's more effective to reflect or absorb.. tricky.
Thanks for the tips
thanks for this video, i was gonna try peel and seal, but living in texas with 100 degree weather in the summer i think i'm gonna pass on that.
Hey man, thanks for this video. I don't know if your info is right but I enjoyed watching you and meth or no meth... your still a good-looking guy and you made me laugh. I'm about to see what else you got on RUclips so I can watch you teach me something.
Gluing weights may do something but why would you want to glue many many kilograms of weights to your car when you can use something better?
Read and learn. Adding weights is like changing the springs/mass of your car. Now while this will change the resonant frequency, it will still bounce up and down for a long time...UNLESS: you have a dampener - the shock absorber. The CLD (Constrained Layer Damping) acts like a shock absorber to dissipate vibration into heat by using the butyl glue/layer and foil backing.
While increasing the mass of your car (adding weights) will smooth out the ride somewhat, it does not dissipate vibrations very well - it simply changes the frequency response. Adding a shock absorber allows you to damp the vibrations so they are stopped in as short a time as possible. This is what CLD damping products do.
As for closed cell foam - the foam itself may block some frequencies but it is not optimal - this is where you use a dense barrier like MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). The foam decouples it from the panel which may still have some vibration, and blocks airborne frequencies more effectively than just foam.
So, sound deadener that sticks onto the door panels etc. Is supposed to reduce vibrations, which can cut down on some road/engine noise, but to get the full effect you should use a CCF and MLV layer on the inner panels/floor. YOu can even go one step further and add some kind of stuffing as sound absorber for airborne sounds.
As for asphalt - the butyl is probably better these days as it won't melt as easily and shouldn't stink. Roofing butyl tapes are generally not as effective as the real thing due to the types of rubber and adhesive, plus the fact they are generally thinner in both rubber and foil.
I know about soundproofing in general, not so much about car soundproofing specifically, though it's all the same in principle. If you're trying to keep sound from exiting or entering the car, you need extra mass (particularly dampened mass) which will line the entire inside of the vehicle. I've you're wanting to stop rattles, you need dampening between where two metal panels meet. Yes, heavier materials will have a different resonance frequency, and yes the weights you added to your hood acted like a clamp on the metal of the hood so that it didn't resonate as badly, but that's still just one part of the issue. I'm not vouching for any products or anything, just pointing out stuff. Also, foams don't deflect so much as they absorb (the sheet metal deflects more sound than the foam does). Soft closed cell foams have a sound absorption coefficient of around .5 or greater, meaning they allow about 50% of the sound to penetrate; while it is doing so, a bit of it's power is being absorbed and converted into heat. Closed cell foams seem to work better for low frequency, as they sort of behave like bass traps. Again, sort of. Oh, also if it adhered to the metal and not just sort of hanging there, it will help to dampen the resonance of the metal (the metal won't oscillate as severely nor for as long of a period of time).
Great idea. How about just put some magnet on the panel to add weight?
Life hack: Eliminate ALL rattling by lining your doors with rubber car door edge guards. Less than $13 on Amazon to do your whole car, truck, or suv.
Two kenwood 15's with a 13,000w JL audio amp. No matter what music I play, my Blazer doesn't bang an inch without a door open!
It's been more than 4 years ths review is made. can you please compare the latest products in the market, that would be very helpful. Thanks for the educating video, and I appreciate your effort to help others.
regards,
Sriram
Very informative video, definitely the smartest guy on youtube talking about this subject.
Thanks alot mate:)
Thank you so much for the informative and concise video - fuck anyone who is hating on this guy, he's just trying to help people understand the principals behind how these deadening products work.
wow fucking trolls... this dude posts an informative video and you guys rebut with insults. whether or not you found this video helpful has nothing to do with neurological pathologies he may or may not have.
I was thinking about going the dynamat route but I will def seek out a less expensive solution now. thanks for the video man!
This guy doesn't even understand the function of a constrained layer damper! The butyl rubber adhesive is a bonding mechanism and spacer for the aluminum foil layer which is actually the damping component in this system. The foil resists the shear and compression forces that are placed upon it by vibrations in the substrate it's bonded to. This is why it's called a constrained layer damper. This system is more efficient than extensional dampers like the old Dynamat asphaltic/bitumen blend. As an Acoustical Engineer I specify and/or design damping products and our focus is on low mass, high efficiency systems. Try telling a Corvette Z06 owner that you're going to add 200 Lbs. to his vehicle to make it quiet!
Douglas Moir what is the best product available on the US market for low mass/high efficiency? I drive a 2008 mustang and it's heavy enough lol
Christian, Is low frequency road noise and exhaust the primary issues that you are having? You can shoot an email to me doug@cascadeaudio.com and I can suggest a system for your Mustang. We currently do the acoustic package for Shelby and the revology mustangs made in Florida.
Yes, you're correct. Thanks Douglas, I emailed you.
Douglas Moir Doug, I sent you an email. Did you receive it? Haven't seen a reply yet
Lol, you think that bit of foil does anything?
It is there to provide a surface to push against so it can adhere to other surfaces and so that the butyl doesn't rub into anything that touches it.
The dampener doesn't do anything other than add weight, join panels and patch small holes.
If you want a sound barrier you need something like rubber suspended over something like open cell foam.
Excellent video.
Cheers bro! just wondering, i have a loud exhaust, and was wondering if mattress underlay would also work as a sound barrier? Its made out of foam with an egg carton shape design, also thinking of using ordinary foam to block all the major holes that noise can seep through. You think its a good idea? or am i just being wayyy too cheap. Cheers mate
sir, your video is really helpfull .if i use closed cell foam should i add a layer of thin aluminium membrane on top. thanks in advance .
@joestl314 Another solution to rattles. mostly to do with the trunk is a high density foam or if you can find it, thick gel pads on the joints. like banging a rock against a pillow instead of another rock
Cool sweater. Probably a golf pro and just got his Bemer soundproofed. Good stuff
Great Video 9 years later ..
What are you doing with them? I worked for GM, I was a technical engineer involving NVH, specifically transmission noise. I know what we used and who it came from, using asphalt based products don't do what people think they do.
Awesome video man. Informative and pleasant to watch.
I filled my whole trunk with 45 pound weights. Guess I showed that rattling trunk wassup.
You Legend! Make more learning videos please. You have helped me understand the real facts of sound deadening
Great video,Big Thanks.
But i want to use deadened to Enhance Bass response from door speakers.
(Trying not to add a sub to the car) Rockford Fosgate T265-S with 225 RMS amp pushing them. my thought is just to use peel & seal... to seal up all the opening and firm up /reduce flex on the door.
Whats the thought on this? Does this stuff work for this?
Nice vid, think you did an excellent job dropping some of your knowledge and clearing up some of the falsities of cheap dampening materials and adhesives. You had mentioned you thought there were better subs then JL Audio. I have been a long time fan of that brand (since the 90's). Im just curious as to what brand or brands of subs you think can out perform
JL and that are less expensive. I also have some DIY brands that you might be interested in looking into.
HELL NAW ! AM NOT SKIPPING IT !! watched it all the way
BIG THNX MY MAN
My problem is my exhaust note interfering with my bass from my sub. I think for this the dynamat would be best at keeping the exhaust wound from messing with the bass frequencies.
best sound proofing video.
Thanks for sharing you thoughts. This was exactly what I was looking for! This is a 3yr old vid. Has anything changed in the materials used for sound deadening?
hell with them all my boy is a trip when we together and he ticks we look at each other and crack up cause i do it sometimes like it rubs off on me . but he is my best friend and i joke with him in fun. i hate haters who like to make people feel shitty cause of something they cannot control
2:42 sound of my farts after eating taco bell lol
dude where did you buy the drank? i used to be sponsored by them for skateboarding but i lost contact with them and havent been able to find it since
Really good video! Going to save me tons of time researching.
Thanks for the video. I just bought the peel and seal stuff yesterday but never installed it. I'm just going to buy the real stuff to play it safe.
lol i see his point but the deadening is much more effective. you're increasing the density of the wall the waves are bouncing off of. just like you wouldnt use ply wood to build a woofer enclosure, you use density wood to avoid losing pressure inside the chamber. the deadening is having the same effect by increasing the density of its walls. i completely polyfil'd and deadened my civic and the difference is incomparable. you cant glue weights when you have 5k rms in ur car, those weights arent going to hold. but he has a point. sit on ur trunk and the rattle nearly goes away. well when i did the deadening itwent away. yes i spent 23894234$ but it was awesome. (:
Surely using closed cell foam on top of something like Dynamat will help you project more of the sound through your speaker instead it escaping through other parts of your door?
I'm the guy in the video. Different account. I stopped buying subwoofers and started buying Bitcoin. :-) Anyway, you're absolutely right. Most of those products are designed to be used together. Although they have their independent benefits. Honestly, 11 years later, much of it is a waste of money. If your doors rattle, do some test.....what frequencies make it rattle.....the whole nine yards. be systematic about it. Many of these products have a HUGE markup. They WANT you to cover your car.......and a lot of the guys on youtube... 'they are sponsored to do it. (If you have the money, go for it.....they are great products. But a lot of "noobs" expect a miracle and end up spending a lot on something they didn't need.
Very good video, answered all my questions. THANK YOU!
Tear apart ANY IASCA Champ car youll see 100% coverage top to bottom front to back! Sound deadener turns the vibrations into heat. So if you're planning on winning a SQ comp, you will be using a Butyl rubber backed by aluminum with an adhesive applied. Followed by the open and closed cell foam pad on top of the first layer of dampening,and if you'er a stickler they make a pad with a LEAD sheet in the middle of it! Both of those install, total coverage you are set, These are the IASCA car's!
Well done sir. Very concise.
thank you sir. great video.
I'm thinking after seeing the samples of putting MegaMat from the trunk all the way to the rear seats(I have a 3 door seat ibiza), also I'll try to put some in the doors too(between the plastic and the door metals)
I understand where you're coming from, but the weight "idea" ("theory"?) is not valid in regards to the trunk rattle. The only way to reduce vibration by increasing weight is to uniformly increase that weight across the material, not by "weighing" down the trunk (which is not a stand-alone environment, at any rate, but is connected to the rest of the car - which is affected by the bass wavelengths as well) in random and far-spaced areas.
Thank you this video was extremely helpful
had some very good points there
10 years later still Good Advice. You need to understand what he says. When he says Weight, is is talking about MASS.
Just like in Home Audio, the Cabinets are VERY thick. DIYMA has had all sorts of FLAME wars with how or what to go with. My Pro TIP? BUY AMERICAN PRODUCTS if you can, or Local if possible. Just Don't be a "Big Dummy" about it.
Also, this dude in the video? His sisters name is GRETTA! :-) (The Tisum Clan will get this) Peave out and enjoy your ride!
Waiting for FatMat samples, RattleTrap and MegaMat (although I'll use MegaMat because RattleTrap isn't sticky enough as I saw in some review, also contains asphalt but the sample can't change so I'll get both samples.). The MegaMat is 1.8mm, 194g/sq ft.
dude that expression of subs he did with his voice was pretty damn close lol
This helped a lot!
Thank you for putting the effort in making this video.
Almost 7 years later. I was wrong about a lot in this video.....but I also had some decent ideas.
Joseph Garnier
lol thats you?
Thanks for the video
I hate reading comments from people who don't know anything about what they're talking about but spew incorrect information everywhere
So an example of closed cell foam, is that like Polyethylene?
Great video
Okay so I have a question. I am currently in the middle of a build to put 2 18 inch subwoofers in the bed and 4 12s behind my seats in my truck. I was thinking about coating my campershell with sound deadener to try and help with the vibrations so my campershell would not start cracking. (It is fiberglass) I do not care about the noise of the rattle, I just need enough vibration control to keep it from breaking. Would gluing weights to it fix this? I feel like it would but I want to double check
hey thanks for the info, I leaned alot. 1 thing I don't understand is... do u have to deaden the car or just the trunk? I have a 98 gs300 with a 15" kicker comp and I blast my base alot. so what should I do to stop the plate n trunk from rattling
just put some foam stripping behind the licences plate
Ignore the haters dude, the weirdest people are always the coolest :)
What else can rattle in a ford focus? (i.e. I have 2 15's and I drive a 2000 ford focus, and it rattles)
@Neversnitch78 I have a mild case of Tourette Syndrome and it causes me to have weird facial expressions. I'll be nice and preemptively accept your coming apology because I refuse to believe that someone would resort to throwing random insults on the internet. Oh how low your self esteem must be. Good luck kind sir. :-)
This vid finally answered many questions now to get some work done