Guys I really love your videos. I finished my instructional and on the water courses but your videos have just the right amount of detail and tips that they help refresh my memory before I go out on the water. I send your videos to my potential crew mates also to give him a sense for what to expect
Great video! I really like how you include shots of the same scene from at least a couple points of view. There is one detail I'd like to add: A snubber serves another purpose besides taking the load off the windlass: it also acts as a shock absorber. Chain catenary does that too, in lighter air, but as the wind builds catenary becomes less effective, which increases undesirable shock loading which is hard on deck hardware AND increases the risk of breaking the anchor out.. The snubber should be of a size that nylon rode would be for a chain/nylon combination rode and should be long enough to allow stretching, which would be closer to 15-25 feet in most cases (the snubber/chain connection should be off the bottom at low tide, hanging straight down).
Awesome videos!! I think we saw you at PLM in Grenada a couple of nights ago! Will you be around for a while? Btw, don’t forget to tell people to pull in the dinghy painter...we might or might not have learned that lesson the hard way...in the dark..with lots of guests on board! Ha! Ha! Cheers!
Hey Stephany! Yes you ran into Jack and the crew. They are in Bequia right now en route to Martinique. Yes good point re the dinghy painter, we will put it in our blog post!
I’ve got a 1972 Allan Wright variant with no windlass wich is such a workout but your anchoring procedure is still pretty useful. Thanks for sharing your valuable knowledge. Wich cruising yacht is that? Such a beauty. How the racing helm wheel for cruising?
During lifting of anchor, Standing inside the chainbox seems dangerous , in case the chain comes loose from the windlass and you are standing on top of chain that is rapidly /uncontrollably being dropped all at once 😮
Thanks a ton again for so clear, easy-to-understand tips! On what RPM do you test the anchor? on Monohulls? On Cats? I heard very different numbers, from 1300rpm for a "short" time up to 2400rpm for 2 minutes. Is there any rule of thumb to compare roughly the anchor testing towards wind strength (for instance: catamaran 40ft., 1800rpm for a minute should be fine for 20-30 knots during the night, monohull 40ft.: same with 1500rpm,...)? Thanks for your opinion on this.
evanbetter glad you like it! Yes the suggestions you have in brackets look good. We go for “Goldilocks strategy” here. That is, not hard enough and you don’t really get a proper test done. Too hard and you may break your windlass (or on an older boat, even pull it off the mount). We normally start just above idle, say 1200rpm, then as it settles at that, gradually ease the throttle up to anywhere from 1500-2000 depending on how concerned you are about the hold. One tip here is to ease the throttle throughout (like volume control); never to "turn it off" like a light. Hope that helps!
No one is operating an anchor barefoot on my watch. The deck is can be slippery and I hate to see those bare toes so close to the winch. But that’s my take, love the content.
I find it odd that you have the helmsman or engineperson calling the shots when it’s the anchor person who can best determine if it is set and when to move forward or aft. All the helmsman does is F/R and rpm. Hand signals are great but design them for the bowman to tell the engineperson what to do.
By transiting, the helm knows if the anchor is set or not. All the anchor dropper does is drop the anchor. There are no forward/aft calls in dropping anchor. It's just drop and move back, either with the wind or motor. This is not complicated! In overcomplicating the process (with VHF/using forward/aft calls etc), people introduce more error to it.
@@SailingVirgins We have a couple of hand held walkie talkies to communicate between the helm and the bow. The anchor on our boat is controlled from the helm and always has an added element of danger ie no toes or fingers near the windlass when operating. This works well for us.
@@TheRectory33 thanks for your thoughts. If that is a 100'+ boat, then fair enough re VHF comms. For any boats smaller, VHF is unnecessary, and we find that controlling the anchor from the helm can be problematic as you simply can't see what is going on. But whatever works for you!
@@SailingVirgins Every boat/crew has their own way of doing things, but for us - 2-up on a 40-footer - we use a combination of hand signals and UHF handhelds. Once the windlass starts then it's all about hand signals because, obviously, voice comms are useless. But before and after we communicate and consult between the bow and the helm via the handhelds, and this is important to us for a number of reasons. Firstly, I should say, that the bow is conning our boat - they have the best view of the mooring field and the seabed - and so it's the bow that makes the call on where and when to drop. It's important, especially in crowded/complex anchorages and marinas to have both good situational awareness and communication: so we talk it through over the handhelds and this ensures that we have both/all sets of eyes continuously scanning through 360-degrees, yet still able to effectively and clearly communicate and plan. There's no shouty-shouty (useless anyway if there's any decent wind) or loss for visual awareness while bow and helm are looking only at each other. We've seen lots of cowboys in budgie-smugglers/bikinis shouting at and over each other, getting themselves and others into all sorts of peril (it often seems that competence is inversely proportional to the quantity of clothing worn). Once set, we do all the usual checks for good holding - transit, chain bounce, etc - but we also "screenshot" the GPS coordinates; holding the boat in position using reverse thrust will give you a very stable fix that can be re-verified after a few moments... Thanks for videos, they're well planned and executed and although you do a good job of looking relaxed and carefree I know just how much pre-work goes into making it appear just so.
This is the third video of your's I've watched. A great job! Just for the record (must have been noted before by someone?), that's the largest ... LARGEST ... wheel I've ever seen on a boat in your boat's size range. Wow? I think you can put some canvas on that and increase your downwind performance!? Puts a new spin on spin-i-ker? : )
Yes we love this boat. The large wheel allows for finer control, and means the helm can be in many places and still have control. This boat was designed by the legendary Bruce Farr; he did a great job in the design.
@@SailingVirgins Yes, swing room and diameter are important factors. As is your neighbours: boats of the same type will - more or less - be affected by wind and tidal stream in the same way and at the same time. But monohulls, multihulls, and motorboats will react differently, and so unless that's lots of space try to stick in a homogenous group.
You guys absolutly the best of RUclips about sailing, tips and tricks... Thanks for all... Love from Turkey...
Can Siltu thanks!!
Guys I really love your videos. I finished my instructional and on the water courses but your videos have just the right amount of detail and tips that they help refresh my memory before I go out on the water. I send your videos to my potential crew mates also to give him a sense for what to expect
Great to hear, thanks Daniel!
Great video. Might be worth mentioning to tie your dinghy close to the stern so not to get the rope caught in the prob when reversing.
Very true Mike! We forgot to mention this on the video. Thanks for the reminder.
Clearly the best Med mooring video on You Tube. Great work guys.
Thanks for that!
Thank you for both explaining and the practical demonstration
Thanks. I have a sailing class this weekend, and anchoring is the one skill on the agenda that I have zero experience with, so this was very helpful.
Thanks Matt!
Learned more than I thought I would. Great piece.
Best Video Ive seen on this. Thx guys! It's simple, but you want to get it right.
Amazing tutorial guys. I have used this to show it to my inexperienced crew on our 1st voyage. Thanks
Well done. High quality content guys.
Great video! I really like how you include shots of the same scene from at least a couple points of view. There is one detail I'd like to add:
A snubber serves another purpose besides taking the load off the windlass: it also acts as a shock absorber. Chain catenary does that too, in lighter air, but as the wind builds catenary becomes less effective, which increases undesirable shock loading which is hard on deck hardware AND increases the risk of breaking the anchor out.. The snubber should be of a size that nylon rode would be for a chain/nylon combination rode and should be long enough to allow stretching, which would be closer to 15-25 feet in most cases (the snubber/chain connection should be off the bottom at low tide, hanging straight down).
Awesome videos!! I think we saw you at PLM in Grenada a couple of nights ago! Will you be around for a while? Btw, don’t forget to tell people to pull in the dinghy painter...we might or might not have learned that lesson the hard way...in the dark..with lots of guests on board! Ha! Ha! Cheers!
Hey Stephany! Yes you ran into Jack and the crew. They are in Bequia right now en route to Martinique. Yes good point re the dinghy painter, we will put it in our blog post!
Exellent channel guys! Superbly made videos, very useful as a reminder before sailing season! ;)
why do they constantly look like they're on the verge of breaking out in laughter lol
FH Purcell that's exactly how it was filming this!
wonderful, in detail!!!
beautiful video in a beautiful location! thanks for sharing guys.
Thanks for the kudos!
You guys are great - hope to meet you out on the water one day. Fair winds.
I’ve got a 1972 Allan Wright variant with no windlass wich is such a workout but your anchoring procedure is still pretty useful. Thanks for sharing your valuable knowledge. Wich cruising yacht is that? Such a beauty. How the racing helm wheel for cruising?
you might point out she should hold her fingers when the helmsman can actually see them instead of behind her head
During lifting of anchor, Standing inside the chainbox seems dangerous , in case the chain comes loose from the windlass and you are standing on top of chain that is rapidly /uncontrollably being dropped all at once 😮
Great video, thanks
Great stuff 😊
Thx mates! Good videos!
Thanks - keep em coming
Thanks Darren!
pretty handy info for a newbie Thanks :)
Hey just found your channel. Really great. Do you have any info or recommendations on charter companies in Greece around the Ionian islands?
Thanks a ton again for so clear, easy-to-understand tips! On what RPM do you test the anchor? on Monohulls? On Cats? I heard very different numbers, from 1300rpm for a "short" time up to 2400rpm for 2 minutes. Is there any rule of thumb to compare roughly the anchor testing towards wind strength (for instance: catamaran 40ft., 1800rpm for a minute should be fine for 20-30 knots during the night, monohull 40ft.: same with 1500rpm,...)? Thanks for your opinion on this.
evanbetter glad you like it! Yes the suggestions you have in brackets look good. We go for “Goldilocks strategy” here. That is, not hard enough and you don’t really get a proper test done. Too hard and you may break your windlass (or on an older boat, even pull it off the mount). We normally start just above idle, say 1200rpm, then as it settles at that, gradually ease the throttle up to anywhere from 1500-2000 depending on how concerned you are about the hold. One tip here is to ease the throttle throughout (like volume control); never to "turn it off" like a light. Hope that helps!
No one is operating an anchor barefoot on my watch.
The deck is can be slippery and I hate to see those bare toes so close to the winch.
But that’s my take, love the content.
I find it odd that you have the helmsman or engineperson calling the shots when it’s the anchor person who can best determine if it is set and when to move forward or aft. All the helmsman does is F/R and rpm.
Hand signals are great but design them for the bowman to tell the engineperson what to do.
By transiting, the helm knows if the anchor is set or not. All the anchor dropper does is drop the anchor. There are no forward/aft calls in dropping anchor. It's just drop and move back, either with the wind or motor. This is not complicated! In overcomplicating the process (with VHF/using forward/aft calls etc), people introduce more error to it.
@@SailingVirgins We have a couple of hand held walkie talkies to communicate between the helm and the bow. The anchor on our boat is controlled from the helm and always has an added element of danger ie no toes or fingers near the windlass when operating. This works well for us.
@@TheRectory33 thanks for your thoughts. If that is a 100'+ boat, then fair enough re VHF comms. For any boats smaller, VHF is unnecessary, and we find that controlling the anchor from the helm can be problematic as you simply can't see what is going on. But whatever works for you!
@@SailingVirgins Every boat/crew has their own way of doing things, but for us - 2-up on a 40-footer - we use a combination of hand signals and UHF handhelds. Once the windlass starts then it's all about hand signals because, obviously, voice comms are useless. But before and after we communicate and consult between the bow and the helm via the handhelds, and this is important to us for a number of reasons. Firstly, I should say, that the bow is conning our boat - they have the best view of the mooring field and the seabed - and so it's the bow that makes the call on where and when to drop. It's important, especially in crowded/complex anchorages and marinas to have both good situational awareness and communication: so we talk it through over the handhelds and this ensures that we have both/all sets of eyes continuously scanning through 360-degrees, yet still able to effectively and clearly communicate and plan. There's no shouty-shouty (useless anyway if there's any decent wind) or loss for visual awareness while bow and helm are looking only at each other. We've seen lots of cowboys in budgie-smugglers/bikinis shouting at and over each other, getting themselves and others into all sorts of peril (it often seems that competence is inversely proportional to the quantity of clothing worn). Once set, we do all the usual checks for good holding - transit, chain bounce, etc - but we also "screenshot" the GPS coordinates; holding the boat in position using reverse thrust will give you a very stable fix that can be re-verified after a few moments... Thanks for videos, they're well planned and executed and although you do a good job of looking relaxed and carefree I know just how much pre-work goes into making it appear just so.
@@SailingVirgins "All the anchor dropper does is drop the anchor." Tom Cunliffe would disagree...ruclips.net/video/0fsCQLmGNBY/видео.html
Love it!
Thanks Rob!
This is the third video of your's I've watched. A great job! Just for the record (must have been noted before by someone?), that's the largest ... LARGEST ... wheel I've ever seen on a boat in your boat's size range. Wow? I think you can put some canvas on that and increase your downwind performance!? Puts a new spin on spin-i-ker? : )
Yes we love this boat. The large wheel allows for finer control, and means the helm can be in many places and still have control. This boat was designed by the legendary Bruce Farr; he did a great job in the design.
Any thoughts on putting the Snubber on first before you set and test the anchor so as not to apply any strain at all on the windless when in reverse?
Yes for sure Paul. It just takes more time. But your suggestion is legit.
Zelo poučno.
Martin Lipičnik hvala!
Super
Thanks!
4:44 ♥️👍
What a life
Pro Parking!
Thanks Rob!
You didn't appear to cover points 8 + 9??
Not sure what you mean? We only have four points in this episode.
I guess you never anchored in a small anchorage if you always put out 70m
@@SailingVirgins Yes, swing room and diameter are important factors. As is your neighbours: boats of the same type will - more or less - be affected by wind and tidal stream in the same way and at the same time. But monohulls, multihulls, and motorboats will react differently, and so unless that's lots of space try to stick in a homogenous group.
Need a fun outgoing female crew member!? Haha
supper
All of this and not one second on how to attach the chain properly…every video on here and not one on how to attach the anchor