Tom Cunliffe Explains How to Make Anchoring Stress-Free
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- Опубликовано: 30 мар 2022
- New to boating and not anchored before? Or are you just looking for advice on how to make anchoring less daunting so you can enjoy the many beautiful anchorages along the coast?
Watch as Tom Cunliffe discusses how to make anchoring stress-free for you and everyone onboard.
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Tom Cunliffe is a God-given treasure to the library of the knowledge of the sea.
We always use your methods of anchoring Tom. No stress, no shouting, works every time 👍
Nice. Im always amazed at how many people don't know how to 'lay in' an anchor.
Also 1. Use a rope snubber at least the length of the boat. It is quieter and reduces the chance of jerking the anchor out, and 2. Fasten the chain onto a cleat or Samson post not left round the windlass. The snubber can be on a sheet winch in the cockpit run along the deck. As per Prof Knox .
When computing the scope you need to add in the height of the bow above the water, not just anchoring depth. This is often 4 or 5 ft, i.e. about 1.5 meters. Also make sure the scope is adequate at high tide or for the maximum height during your stay, not just at the time you drop the hook.
Tom Cunliffe has the best books! Thanks Tom
Love the hand signals. Logical and easy to understand!! I have now used these successfully with young sailors and 'old salts' alike :)
Thanks, Tom, for another excellent episode. I found your hand-signal scheme very logical and easy to remember and indeed worked out quite well practically. Cheers.
Surely it’s better to drop the anchor by opening the clutch on the windlass, i.e. not slowly motoring out the chain? The advantages of this approach are: a) The anchor immediately hits the bottom at your chosen spot, not some way down tide - which is really important in a crowded anchorage. b) You can pay the chain out at the correct rate to suit the boat’s movement backward, not just at a fixed rate. c) Saves wear and tear on the windlass motor and uses less electricity.
Thanks for the video, I would really love to see one on anchoring etiquette also. How to judge other boat's swing, enter a packed anchorage, etc
Excellent Tom. I love the thoughts about watching transits while anchoring. Great advice.
Great Advice about the signals! Thank you
Brilliant :-) Thank you Tom - I'm just in the process of taking my day skipper theory and practical to follow in the Solent, so wonderfully helpful:-) Love your videos and have your books too.
Thanks Tomorrow. Very nicely done.
Thank you Tom, I do so like your “how to’s” and the down to earth practicle manner you do it, just like my dear mentor of many years ago. Sadly in the time since, I’ve forgotten so much since not having the opportunity to sail but still find it all so fascinating 😁
Very helpful. Thank you so much for sharing
Noticed something Toby did but wasn’t mentioned: while checking if the anchor is set, Toby puts a foot gently (safely) on the chain to feel if the anchor is “skipping” over the bottom, or is firmly set. Good practice.
Thanks Tom! Great video! Looking forward for more how to videos!
As always Tom, GREAT info. Thank you.
I have often come across racers that have no experience of anchoring. On the other hand, they can trim a sail far better than me.
Thank you!
Many thanks for the videos , great presentation and very useful information cheers.
Thanks!
Good fun watching you both. Keep away from the water skier area I think.
Always enjoy listing and learning 👍👊
Like your hand signals better than mine! Thank you!
Good review with lots of helpful addendums as well, Tom. Here’s one more. Calculate your scope not by your current depth, but by high water. Since in this case, you were near high water, the 20m ensured your 1:4 ratio. But if you had been at low tide, you would have needed another 12m of chain to ensure you still had a 1:4 scope when it had risen by 3m. Fair winds and good holding!
Great video great advice. The bit on tides reminded me of my New England sailing experience where the whole bay may empty at low tide. It was not uncommon to see a fleet of fishing boats sitting on the bottom waiting for the returning tide. Always nice in those areas to have a boat that can be left sitting on the bottom without damage (traditional full keelboats) Since moving to FL tides here are almost nothing in comparison except during king tide season. Of course there is A lot os skinny water in the ICW to worry about but tide is not as extreme as higher latitudes.
As always explained in such a way, even a dummy like me can understand. Thanks Tom. Hope you many more years of great sailing ahead.
Thank you so much for the tips. Helps a great deal. Please keep pumping out content. I need all the help I can get lol
Situational awareness, Best hand signals, and the pointy end Is in charge. Great insight. Subbers, cleats and clutches well as you might point out that's all about being kind to the gear. Now isn't it?
Tom, I love your book on Celestial Navigation. Its the best I've read on the topic and help me get my Yachtmaster Ocean. I saw you once in Chichester Harbor. Wish I could have stopped to say hello. You are a real asset to the sailing community. thanks for all you do.
I agree. Tom's is the best text on celestial I've seen. Easy to read. Clear explanations. Outstanding diagrams. Ho 249 Air Tables plus Almanac
Even if you are always equally inspiring, we will introduce your hand signs. We wish you a happy Easter and hope to see you this summer. Markku and Eva
Love your work Tom! Next step safety chain on the anchor?
Something else I always do is cruise around in a circle to test depths, before choosing where to drop the anchor. I like to know that, regardless of where wind or tide might take (swing) me, I know that I will always have enough depth.
Grand job. Could you do a how to on anchoring for the single handed sailor please.
Same thing, though the travel time for hand signals is much less :) My system: Turn into the wind/current, idle the engine in reverse, go forward to let out the anchor and enough scope, and tie it off. You can feel the anchor grab (I don't use a windless). Walk back to rev a bit in reverse to confirm a good set, and shut it down.
I single hand my 31’ boat a lot and have anchored hundreds of times. If there’s at least a light breeze ( and no counter/cross current), you can let the wind take the place of using reverse gear. Go head to wind, lock the helm midships, walk to the bow. Start lowering the anchor once you no longer have any forward motion. Allow the wind to push you downwind as you pay out the anchor rode at the same rate. The goal is lay out the rode in a straight line, no loops or bunches. If you keep a small amount of tension on the rode as you pay out, the boat will remain head to wind. If you pay out a bit faster the boat may turn sideways to the wind but will still drift downwind. Once you have enough rode out (minimum 3:1 scope, more if strong winds are expected) snub it off at the bow, then you can go back to the cockpit. Wait for the wind to take up any remaining slack and the boat will go head to wind again, then put it in slow reverse to back straight downwind. Line up two trees or other landmarks on shore to use as a transit, and watch them until the boat stops moving. Then increase the rpms a bit (maybe 1500 rpm) in reverse to pull a bit harder. The boat should move a bit more astern and then stop again. All done. Shut off the engine and enjoy happy hour :)
It’s nice to see a stainless steel strike plate on the bow. I am amazed at the number of vessels that eventually take a knock from the anchor because they have no strike plate! 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Tom, why don't you anchor down? I find on my 25 ton ,50 ft steel schooner, the anchor digs in much better than powering faster. And, it is simpler. I can even sail into an anchorage down wind, drop the hook and sails as she digs in and turns. No fuel burned. Bingo!
The new thing you taught me was to come off reverse gradually to avoid the rode bounce that I always expect to get.
Obvious, but I'd never thought of that, thanks Tom.
Edit:
PS. I'm with Flexisail too..... Toby's moved on. But not far...another Port Solent based outfit.
when shit hits the fan, I'd want tom on my boat
Like if there is anything in sailing with Tom ever stress-related.
great vid Tom. how many rpm in reverse to you give it to ensure anchor is set?
No nasty surprises. Always what we want to achieve.
How much thrust or RPMs is a "tiny bit more" to ensure the anchor is set?
So what about using a nylon snubber on the chain?
What is the best thing using a catamaran? - You can go through the chain while setting up :) I am a big fan of you Sir, your videos are like a nice chat..
Tom, would you show us how to determine /indicate the length of anchor chain being lowered ?
I painted mark on the chain say, every 5m ....but the colour paint will be lost surely after a period of time....
Any advice ?
what was the app you used on your phone to see what the tides are doing?
How is the Tide - App called you are using?
Hi Tom, how would you do it all if you’re single handed?
Abaid in Lunenburg.
My technique is: (i) a few hundred yards off, prepare your anchor (power onto windlass, snubber untied etc); (ii) take your time to determine the best spot to drop your anchor. That typically means motoring around in circles, measuring depths, assessing swinging room; evaluating potential obstructions etc.; (iii) figure out the direction and speed of the prevailing current (that is fairly obvious if other boats are at anchor nearby); (iv) when you are ready, motor up to your chosen spot, heading against the current. Aim for something like 1 to 2 kts (anything slower and you may be knocked off course, which may mean having to go round again); (v) as you approach your chosen spot, momentarily throw the engine into reverse (ie drop your speed to less than half a knot) and then into neutral; (vi) as briskly as you can, go forward and get the anchor dropped to at least 2x depths; (vii) after that you have a bit more time to put out more scope and ensure the anchor is set. Easy! The masterclass is doing the same thing under sail (ie no engine) but that is for another day. If you have anchor controls in the cockpit the task becomes simpler. If you have a strong cross wind the task becomes a little trickier. Best to practice on a calm day and build up your skills.
@@stephenburnage7687 thanks for your advice. I’m planning to install a new windlass with remote control. I am also thinking of adding a camera up front to watch the anchor and chain. I have just bought “Chasing Dory”, an underwater drone to check if the anchor is properly set.
@@SV_Naseem Actually, one of the most difficult tasks to do solo is weighing anchor, when there is a strong wind, as you need to motor forward while weighing anchor, to stop the chain from being under tension (windlass's are designed to lift anchors, not pull boats). Having windlass controls adjacent to steering and engine controls would make that much, much, simpler. As to the camera + drone, can't speak for them as I have never used them but a lot depends on where you are. I am in my fifth year of full time cruising and my second year of removing things off the boat (to make it lighter and simpler to maintain). Needless to say, I spent the first three years constantly adding things ;)
No snubber, but since it's just for lunch, no need.
Can someone please tell me why oh why sailors seem so eager to drop anchor with the winch????
Just release the brake and kick the anchor over the side and control it’s decent rate with the brake. Easy. No drain on the winch OR precious amps.
This also works if you’re single handing just as well.
So what am I missing??
I'd like to see a single handed, no electric windlass demonstration.
I call that a Wanderer dinghy
😂😂😂
I only recently got an electric windlass after more than 30 years of sailing, and always lowered/raised the anchor by hand, often single handed. The technique is the same but if single handing you can let the wind push the boat downstream as you pay out the rode by hand. Use sturdy gloves to prevent chain/rope burn. Once you have enough rode out, snub off at the bow and back down using the engine as per the video. Hauling the anchor single handed is physically the hardest part of singlehanding, especially if the wind is strong. Again use gloves and haul away. Sometimes in really strong wind you can put the engine in forward gear to help take the strain off the rode but you have to be careful and not overrun the rode too much. And once the anchor has broken free of the bottom the boat will immediately go broadsides to the wind and drift downwind, so you need to step lively to recover the remaining rode and anchor on deck before the boat drifts away too far. Where I sail the tides are high (5m) and the anchoring depths usually about 10m at least. I usually get away with 3:1 scope or 4:1 max because I only have about 50m of anchor rode and in 15m if water that’s all the scope I can get!
What is name of app that calculates tidal depths? Looks like a good tool.
Imray Tides Planner
@@filmingandfettling but if you look at the edit each time they show it in his hand it’s on the rate of tidal change not the height (you can see it going from red to Green in the bottom box) in metres per hour. That’s going to be very confusing to those using the app for the first time, and bloody annoying for one who uses in the course of his work.
So to clarify, you can change what is displayed by tapping on the screen. Anywhere on the screen, as shown by young Tom and it cycles through these three settings.
Two grey boxes (time and tidal height): this is the tidal height as per the curve so at any time you can get an exact height above Chart Datum. I’ve used it in dinghies, safety boats, RIBs, yachts and large offshore powerboats and it’s very accurate. It gives the depth at Bembridge to within about 10 cm and shows a very specific tidal access point to within 10 cm and you can predict it to within 15 minutes - very handy.
One grey box and one red or green box: red box shows the rate of the tide dropping in metres per hour. Green box shows the rate of the tide rising in metres per hour. Useful to get an idea of flow rate without flicking to the options page that gives you tidal flow by rate and map location.
Two orange boxes: a clever little option allows you to put in your own draft or a figure that you want to use as a safety margin and the bottom orange box shows depth or height above that figure.
Sometimes, like all tech it’s too clever for its own good. But at £3.99 for a years subscription it’s invaluable if you’re anywhere tidal in the UK and Europe and wherever else they sell it.
I’ve used it for about the last seven years and can categorically state it’s never let me down.
These are quite easy conditions: no other boat, spacious bay, definitely no rocks on the seabed, light and stable wind...
What is the name of the tidal app again?
Most weather apps have a tide function
Sorry but, how do you determine the tide by looking at trees? I don't understand.
You are looking for relative motion between objects at different distances from you. If a tree / post etc closer to you than say a hill beyond appears to be moving left, relative to a feature beyond it, then you must be moving to its right. Tom uses the example of trees here, ie one on the front of the tree line, and another further back. It doesn’t matter what features you use provided they are stationary, and one is closer to you than the other.
@@robertcronk2451 Thank you very much. I'm still learning about sailing but I think I understand this now!
To help prevent dragging shackle a weight one fathom up the chain from your anchor this helps to hold the anchor shank down and therefore pulling at the correct angle to keep buried. also helps reduce the effects of snatching. Old brake drums make good weights hot dipped and epoxied to prevent bleeding will last for years, old and trusted tool for anchoring and in very sheltered waters will act as a mud weight for a short term, spot of fishing , lunch etc.A million years ago when I was still a lad brake drums were a common sight on working boats and along the quays.
Just get correct anchor and rode
@@michaelguthrie2344 Well Micky we all now know you don't mind standing under a cold shower tearing up bank notes, like they are going out of fashion, lucky you .For the rest of us who live on a slightly tighter budget and have anchors that meet our needs for ninety nine percent of the time my suggestion is worth a go..
I’ve read conflicting advice/trials/info re putting a weight on the chain/rode. Probably similar to anchor choice ⚓️⛵️😎
👍🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺😁😁😁
Your sails aren't up! What is this?
Tom what if your electronics / cell is dead ? Mr Emery's is useless.
Have a back up and off-line maps etc loaded. I have a sounder, fish finder, tablet and a phone. All that fails, tender with rope and weight. If that can't be done, put it all out.
I can't believe they have an old CQR plow on such a nice boat. It's one of the worst anchor designs ever made. The CQR comes in last in nearly every test. Why all boats don't have a ROCNA on their bow is beyond me.
mate your forgot the snubber , not real clever hombre