Yeah not to crazy, I've encountered a meth head running lines ran out of wire nuts and resorted to scotch tape. Also I guess he really enjoyed green wire it was every where as Power neutral and ground. I was impressed he managed to figure it out while high and not phased lol
Clickbait title. Nothing wrong with the JB's. Rest of the installation looked relatively tidy. Earth rod wasn't even tested to begin with. Underground supplies not checked for before driving longer ER into the ground. Everyone can pick faults in others work!
Apart from a little excess slack in the junction boxes and the additional joints/connections I dont think its worthy of the video title. Sure they could of done the earth rod a little better but still think the title is over critical. Kinda similar to each time you say consumer units are horrible or rats nest because they are not instagram ready.
When you tested that earth rod you had the 10mm connected. Will get a parallel earth path back to MET and main water bond could be giving 1 ohm or even TNS helping. Rod could be 200+ ohms. Need to disconnect 10mm from MET or at rod
Let's assume it was, I'd be a little concerned that the earth rod is trying to make babies with something, maybe a gas pipe or an 9ld lead water pipe. Never seen 1ohm without it being too close to other services to meet regs, and that's when I did hit an old (disused) lead water pipe.
@Artisian Electrics German Electrician guy here 31 years doing so, and that earth rod alone is instant failure, as a prober earth rod should be at least go 2 meters down depending on ground s condition a lot of new constructions have gravel side filings which are unsuited for Earthing, here we are by code forced to use Stainless steel Rods of 25 mm then 16mm² to equipotential bonding depending on where they are installed. Surge arresters can produce very high amps and voltages for some ms so the thicker and lower ohms to the Earth bonding / Rod the better, as that also prevents Copper and steel pipes and such from being eaten away by galvanic corrosion. Here in germany its required your earth local is lower then 2 to 3 Ohms Rlow so equipment to earth needs to be under 1 Ohm. but yeah cleaning up such failures from previous companies is never fun, especially as when you touch it your on the hook.
Belgium is less than 30 ohms for an earth rod/TT system. I had to have several fitted around my property to get something that conformed as the original system was buried under the foundations when the house was built 40+ years ago and was giving 300 ohms
How wonderful it is to see someone ask questions about their work, and then see you take the time to answer them properly (debating) Wish you were here in Denmark so you could do proper work here :) We need more people like you
oh god, we do. I'm just lucky that i can ask either my father or grandfather for help and they would both take their time to explain it as thye just genuinely love sharing their knowledge and helping others.
I was an electrical clerk of works many years ago . I was quite young and some thought “wet behind the ears “ they got a big surprise .I did the job for 9 years. I was made redundant as you see certain organisations said that electrical work could be checked and tested by the electrician doing the job if they were in their organisation . Well since then I became self employed and spent lots of time and lots of people money rectifying other peoples work , oh yes the stickers with their organisations on were stuck all over the job . Great advert I thought ,best thing for me was this new idea .I have now retired and would like to thank these organisations for all the work that was put my way because of their operative’s “skills and dedication “
I bet the electrode was connected in parallel with the supply earth when it was tested. I've never seen 1 Ohm from a single rod. Using a wander lead was also a bit of an odd choice, should've disconnected the 10mm from the MET and tested between that and incoming line.
Yes to parallel earth path. By connecting to the correct breaker outlet, the fault current takes the path that it would do in reality. The reduced csa of the actual circuit phase conductor increases the loop impedance (relative to main incoming line), thus correct value - just thought same theory applies to a wander lead.
Title should have been . "The only Tesla power wall I have ever seen" . The wiska boxes may have had slack in them. But there was no exposed copper and I don't think it's fair to try and pull someone's work to bits just to get a view. You need to get the big man back, the vids were better with him.
Hay Jordan nice vid. The easiest way I've found to explain the earth rod for the power wall is: When running in island mode (off grid) the installation needs to be disconnected from all live conductors (both L&N)... On PME systems we cannot disconnect the neutral as its the same cable as the earth coming into the building. The new earth electrode acts as the main earth when running off grid in Island mode. The power wall switches in a link between the earth electrode and the suppliers neutral to bond the neutral as its classed as a extraneous part when not in use. They call it a PNB "protective neutral bond"... Consideration should be given to the test readings when running in island mode as the although the suppliers neutral being bonded would lower the impedance (Zsdb) can it be relied on especially in a power cut..
Regarding the mention of a DC Coupled system: The panels should never feed power straight into the batteries. That is a completely inefficient way of solar power usage. The reason it goes into the inverter first is because the inverter will be able to distribute the power in the most efficient manner. The inverter determines when/how power needs to be diverted primarily. It also protects the batteries by determining when and how much the batteries need to be charged in order to still provide the house required power. It determines that if there is a storm or flood around the battery to stop sending power to it and divert it to the house instead or stop it altogether. And that's just the basics. Whoever installed that system under contract from Tesla should be reported and that system should properly be fixed if it is in fact dc coupled at all.
Does any electrician out there believe a Loop impedance of 1 ohm on a TT supply? I can only assume you had the repurposed bonding cable attached to the earth rod when you did the Ze. If that is the case, you measure the Ze of the PME supply plus the bonding cable plus the Wonder lead - including all the parallel paths.
Is it just me or did that look like the earth rod is still connected... considering how low that reading was, I suspect you are just getting the resistance of your wander lead and actually that earth rod is connected to the MET, it seemed very low... Would have been better to have disconnected the earth rod and then done a Ze as that is such a low reading, especially as we have had very little raid and its only a small earth rod.. The first outside box looked fine, once you pull it out a bit, its functional and maintainable, give me a bit of extra slack every time, just like you found with that earth cable, sometimes a bit of extra slack can really help.. The other box was a bit messy but again I am sure you could pick it out and it would be fine... Title seemed a bit of a click bait as didn't seem too much wrong with that install, if I had been the installer I think I would have been pretty mad, even the consumer unit at the end looked pretty neat and tidy..
1 ohm is verry Low .. In Belgium we have alway put earth rods or earth loops in foundations ( TT net ) .. And i can tell you with that thin en short earth rod .. we never get it under 30 ohm ( Regulation say here lower or equil to 30 ohm to pass inspection ) . We still use the 3 wire measring technique .. but i have seen an inspector measure between live and earth and got a similar reading ..
@@kittsdiy Interesting stuff, I believe our regs did think about going to foundation earthing for new builds but they backed out for now, probably will come in down the line, especially with solar and battery storage becoming more common it makes sense.. We have varying soil types in the uk, we can use additional small rods to get a resistance reading however most people just use the Ze reading as its easy but I agree getting around 1ohm for that sized rod would ring alarm bells.. What they said in the video is actually wrong, we are allowed a reading upto 1666ohms but you have to prove that it is reliably below that so you would have to take multiple readings over different weather conditions and over a varied time, the alternative which most people use is under 200ohms is seen as sufficient to no matter what the conditions in the worst case scenario will never get below 1666ohms... With a TT system we normally put a 100ma time delayed RCD (Although you can rely on just the 30ma RCD) in addition to 30ma RCD's for fault protection.. We still mainly rely upon the distribution network to provide us with an earth which is mostly the neutral split at the incomer which comes with its inherent risks which is why I think they did think of going to like you foundation earthing but think they backed out of it as there was PEN fault technology developed to get round the dangers but who knows what will happen in the next edition of the wiring regs..
@@steve11211 Here we have to put a main RCD of max 300mA as main switch of the consumer unit and 1 extra unit for the bathroom ( 30mA ) so all the circuits here have RCD protection . Earth has to less or equil to 30 0hm .. if it's higher in some case you have to put a 100mA MAiN RCD or it will not get approved .
It reminds me of my grandmother's cottage in the 60's. She lived in a small village near Stamford. I have no idea how the place was wired - it was probably done in 1940-41 when they bought the place and fixed it up, but there were plenty of round pin 5 and and 15 amp sockets. She would describe the electricity as "it's a bit slow today", and would on occasion go outside to water the earth rod to improve the situation. Everything would work better after that.
@@kittsdiy we have similar rules for TT installs, where you need a 100mA type S RCD at the incomer and the rod must be < 200 ohm. We generally only have TT installs in rural areas though and the majority of our installs are TN-S or TN-C-S, where the Ze is not allowed to be higher than 0.85 or 0.35 respectively. Since the 17th edition of BS7671 in 2008, 30mA RCD protection was mandated for all domestic circuits.
Nothing wrong in my eyes with the junction box wiring. In fact, to this electronic tech, he did it quite well. It's not the static looks that count, it's the *functional* look. And that represents availability of pulling out the available lead length for the purpose of servicing.
At 11:14, that wiring is a living disgrace. The box was too small for starters. If that is the quality you aspire to, please change professions - to one where craftsmanship is not a part of it.
Surely putting AC and DC in the same box is questionable at best to begin with? Doubly so if any of those are signal cables for the devices to talk to each other.
Agreed. I even clicked on the vid just to find out what was wrong with that junction box in the thumbnail. The other box at 11:14 is as John pointed out before me really not good because there's exposed copper. But nothing's wrong with the first box and putting it into the thumbnail is a weird choice.
Agreed, but labelling cables is an aid to quicker effective servicing. Generally, correctly sized enclosures allow cables to have the correct bending radius.
I think you’ll find the Powerwall 2 which that is, is 13.5 useable kwh. I do not like top entry into a Junction box that mounted outside, I seen so many fill with water.
The earthing conductor to the earth rod should have been disconnected at the consumer unit to get your Ra/Ze. The way that it was done you would have parallel paths. I would use a minimum of 6mm for earth rods as it’s stronger than 4mm. I personally use 10mm as it’s always on the van. 👍🏼
As an electronics engineer - it does pain me that electricians don't know ohms law off by heart without having to pull out a calculator app!....every heard of the Ohm's Law Triangle? I=V/R -> 230/200 = 1.15 amps. Anyway using the highest possible Z of a TT is not what you should be using in your calculations - the lowest possible Z is what determines the cable size....no good assuming the TT earth is a maximum of 200 ohms where it could actually be a really good earth and be 1/4 of that. Still 10mm is enough regardless.
@D HJ Then you've got ETO's on board vessels who know a mixture of both. I don't fully agree with you though, although EE's don't work as often with their hands, they would be fine.. would just not be as quick to do the job as they haven't done it every day for years.
We get it dude, you know the Ohms triangle (U=R*I)which im sure everyone here knows). He probably only used the calculator app to calculate and get the exact number instead of pulling out a sheet of paper and a pencil, and spending time doing the calculation.
If the max resistance (ZE) of the earth connection is 200 Ohms, then your calculated 1.15A is the *minimum* fault current that might flow, not the maximum. If the actual ZE is lower, the current will be higher.
Really interesting video, good stuff! Very interesting to see that the powerwall uses a rod so that neutral can be referenced to earth just like the live supply. Alternative supplies are usually IT with a floating earth. Seems odd that the installers used flexi for what looks like a straight run up to the loft, would have been a lot easier to pull and looked nicer in regular pvc conduit. Oh, and absolutely no way was that 1.01 ohm reading from the rod!
14:06 The 10mm wire to the board/charger ? I still conected when doing the testing .. / the earth from grid and bondings still connected ... nope 1 ohm is impossible with such thin en small earth rod .. or it must be magic soil .. I usually have to put 2 -3 in to get 12 ohm earth restance . Altough i measure with the 3 wire method .. we don't do ZE tests in Belgium .. but should be simalar result ?
@@kittsdiy Yes, exactly what you said. To get a Ze for the rod it should be done at the board with the 3 wire earth loop impedance test and the cable to the rod disconnected from the MET to eliminate parallel earth paths. I think they maybe tested continuity of the 10mm cable between the MET and rod and that was the 1 ohm reading we saw, although that seems high for a 10mm cable unless it was a very long run.
The gateway doesn’t switch “instantly”, it’s very varied and depends on how current is flowing… a lot of the time you’ll get a dip and power loss enough to lose a computer etc - it’s not a UPS; it’s a common misconception. And there won’t be any DC cables going to the powerwall as powerwalls are AC only… the CAT5/6 cables in that first box you said were CT clamps were likely the comms cable between the gateway and the powerwall. (You asked! :D )
Yeah...quite often there's a marked difference in comprehension between electronic techs, and electricians. Where this always 'pops-up' is in discussion of multi-phase power, as opposed to 'split-rail' (this occurs more commonly in North Am systems, where domestic supply is almost always single-phase, but centre-tapped neutral/ground. Electricians state "split phase" because they think voltage, not current. The phase stays the same no matter where you tap the secondary.
Is the gateway switch basically a 3pole Contactor that breaks the connection of the supply to the house and the coil supply of the contractor is fead from the incoming supply. So once that is lost the contractor drops out and when the power comes back on the coil is re energized and goes pack to using the incoming supply
@@stephensaines7100 I claim antiphase because the output voltages of the centre-tapped transformer are 180 degrees apart relative to the centre tap. Voltage obviously drives current assuming loads. The terms line or phase are often wrongly confused, as my tutor used to ask 'phase relative to what' ?
What’s frustrating is I’ve been trying to get onto the tesla installer list as we have a lot of enquiries and i want one myself. Then you see these installs and wonder why I’m struggling to get on the list. Difficult to get hold of anyone from tesla
Had one installed a few years back (AC Coupled). It took 2 years waiting on Tesla, but has woked well. The outfit that designed/installed the system is "Swell Energy", in the SF Bay Area... When Tesla discontinued support for 3G... Swell came out and hardwired it with Ethernet... No charge! I spoke with one of their engineers, who was quite helpful when our utility (killer, Pacific gas and Electric) derated the supply voltage, and the gateway shut off the solar and the battery. U had heard that Tesla was no longer selling Powerwalls with 3rd party PV, or AC coupling.
The Tesla system isolates the supply side when it goes into island mode so it needs to have its own earth because it essentially disconnects the supply side earth. This is so a fault current doesn't end up on the supply neutral which someone may be working on in the street.
This is what I couldn't understand from the video, isn't that earth connected to the Tesla box so its only used when in Island mode? Admitting he didn't understand how the Tesla system exactly works is worrying, how would you know where to test if you don't understand how it works? Was that the right spot to be tested? Was it even wired correctly in the first place given the bad job they did of the earth rod?
@@alexatkin There is an earth terminal on the Tesla system which has to go to a local earth. That is all they really need to know for installation. When any system is installed it has to be capable of complete isolation from the grid if the grid power is off. This includes the earth even when it isn't neutral bonded. This is a safety thing for engineers working on the supply side. This said it is crucial that an earth is still available when its running isolated. An exposed earth rod like this is ok but it should be connected with a clamped braided conductor rather than the flimsy earth strap and rigid conductor they were using. It should have been completely enclosed to use the arrangement they had here and the conductor should be in a conduit.
In the event of a mains power failure, the switchover to battery power isn't always instant. It can be, but you can also be without power for up to about 30 seconds. No use therefore for keeping your computer going unless it's a laptop or has its own UPS. The most irritating feature though is that you have to reset the clocks on all your ovens!
In the US, the grounding system is all bonded together permanently, not switched. Perhaps what he referred to was the neutral being connected to it only when generating power, just like the "hot" conductors are switched.
The equipment your customer has is very similar to mine. In July 2020 I had Joju Solar install a 9.6 kW solar array, Tesla powerwall 2 with gateway, 8kw inverter. In 2021 I had a Zappi installed. Everything working fine as best I can tell. As for the gateway I don't know any more than you do but can safely say it works very well as I had a 19 minute power cut in late 2020 and only found out about it the following day when I checked the app. My burglar alarm system is very sensitive to power fluctuations as it sees any fluctuation in power as tampering and switches over to battery back up for a while. The gateway was so quick to enter island mode that the burglar alarm did not notice. I would have been home at the time and also did not notice. My earth rod is in my basement/undercroft It is sunk into to the concrete floor and very much out of the way. Another benefit of the Tesla powerwall is with octopus energy they have a tariff where Tesla takes control of your battery and you feed electricity to the grid at peak time. 4-7pm. You are paid 12.2 pence per kilowatt hour for energy you upload to the grid and the same price applies to energy you take from the grid. With the cost of electricity at the moment this is a very good deal and it wouldn't surprise me if they stop it at some point. During the winter Tesla/Octopus fill your powerwall overnight at the cheapest point (I still pay 12.2 pence for this) and during peak time you give it back to the grid (there is a 8 to 10% efficiency loss doing this). 20% of the battery 13.5kw capacity (2.7ish kw) is kept to one side for emergencies.
We all know one length of 9mm2 earth rod won't give PEFC of 1.01, no matter what you do, not even if you live in the middle of a bog, don't we? 😋 And that the "Loop test lead compensation" menu in Meggers settings only goes as high as 0,3, so not enough to compensate for a flylead this long. Any value below 10 Ohms in this scenario would be old gas bonding still attached or daisy chained to other pipes somewhere under the floor... But yeah - installation is safe for now. Good vlog.
Hi I hat to point this out but you have made a fundamental mistake regarding the earth rod & it’s purpose The power wall is a generation source as such require earth ref rode the earth rod resistance being no greater than 20 ohm to the local mass of earth which can only measured using 3 wire earth rod tester You are creating a return path to the power wall not from it ti the dno local transformer which is what you measured I hope this helps
Loads of sparks think that TT needs to be at least 10mm but a good low resistance is 20 Ohms. At 240V that gives a PFC of 12A - hence a 4mm is sufficient so long as it has mechanical protection.
Always enjoy the UK sparky videos, nice to see how you guys do things. I assume that was an Ra test at the end where it was using a wander lead .... I'd be a bit suspicious of my test procedure if I got a 1.01 ohm Ra result on an earth rod that was originally loose enough to be removed by hand.... I'd be asking myself questions like what parallel paths might be in circuit or whether the earth rod skinned an underground SWA cable and is in contact with the armour or maybe even contacted an underground gas or water pipe.
All talks only about the power cables but what is with the data connection with Wago? In my eyes a very big fault - need correct extra boxes with correctly connectors in extra plastic boxes (or metal boxes for better saving against outside sun flow). Data cables use 10 MBit till 1999, then 100 MBit, since ~2010 1 GBit and ~2020 10 GBit. If they use fiber - no problem in electrical installation! The slacks are very good service entrance and I can cut without problems after 25 years installed 2 mm for new install after a check. Very good in FR Germany isn't allowed that people lower "Elektromeister" installing data stuff. They must guaranty a correctly functions. Funny that GB test all power lines but not the data lines ...
I would have like to see a 3 wire measuring w/o the wire connected to the house .. ( tester on earth rod en then 2 pins in the ground ) . That would never be 1ohm ..
I install the powerwalls for a living in the UK. They are AC coupled only and there's no way of connecting a DC supply. Also all of those cat5 cables are the communication cables between the powerwall and the gateway. They seem to be using 4 of the cores for the 12v and comms where I use 1.5mm for the 12v as per teslas instructions.
That snapped crimp looks like its due to not using a crimping tool. it looks like a pair of pliers or cutters were used. I've got a battery crimping tool and it gives a nice hex shape.
5:35 But remember that the max draw from the power wall is 5kw for the GEN2 and 3.3KW for Gen1. Its NOT 10KW. The capacity is (gen2/3) 13.5kwh or (gen1) 6.4kwh. Just for a point of reference. 5kw really isn't that much for the US for powering a typical house. If you are just looking for lights, TV and fridge you would be fine. I have a 25kw generator, along with UPS' for critical loads until the generator gets going and online. Its natural gas based, and can run until the gas company runs out of gas! 😁 Great work guys! 👍
Here in the US our code requires a 6 awg minimum unless it's protected from physical damage. That wire would fail our inspection because it's not big enough or not protected from damage.
Our regs require a 16mm tinned copper wire straight to the earthrod when exposed to corrosion. From main earth point in the house, you take a minimum of 6mm to the panel. Bonding is 4mm here.
Great job as usual guys👌loved it. Just a wee txt to let yous know my son finally got a level3 electrician course and employer sorted and starts tech on Monday 🥳🥳🥳😁😁😁 Iv never been happier ! Big shout out to Mark 121 for getting in touch with me and trying. Completely over the moon and if you guys have a spare Nick Bundy bag yous were chucking , kindly send it over here to Northern Ireland please 😂 lol
9:40 you really need to be careful of a power outage when you are working on it, need to shut off the ability of it to switch if there was a power failure while working on it.
?? Are there codes of practice for this relatively new complex type of installation yet, i.e solar, battery etc, etc? Takes me back to the concept of the firemans' swich outside shops - one switch to isolate the most dangerous high voltage equipment inside.
yeh Victron Multiplus has the same relay inside to create a local pme for the protected loads - I feed that into another dedicated rcd/rcbo consumer which has the critical loads such as fridge, boiler, alarms and tech
I feel very concerned about lack of neutral earth bonding relays, this is set out in IET Electrical Energy Storage System 2.0. Some manufacturers have schematics for island mode switch over but just power no N/E bonding. They qualify it by saying it must comply with local standards. This seems standard for EPS output to run one low current socket in UPS island mode. It feels like we are waiting for a fatality before the authorities will act.
As far as I'm aware, the Tesla gateway does do this; it when it islands the supply it disconnects the supply live and neutral, and connects the local neutral to the local earth.
The earth conductor is for protection not for load,and it should be well protected against mechanical,chemical hazard ,human error and weather conditions no matter of the size of the conductor.
Agreed ...not a professional install... compromised and thrown together...left UK along time back ....standards definitely fallen....great that this team can identify poor standards and rectify them....good on you Artisan
5:56 The Tesla Powerwall does not switch over quickly enough that it will function as a UPS for computers. We've found our Powerwall 2 takes about half a second to switch over. So my business computers still all have UPS power, albeit the batteries don't need to be replaced as frequently as they used to.
Pathetic , looks like three men from artisan have just discovered electricity, earthing and their first Tesla power wall , how can you have the cheek to call someone else’s work ? All I heard was , I think , I think , oh hang on I’ll ask the customer as he knows way more about these than me !
Please correct me if you think I'm wrong, but I wouldn't have looked at the tesla creating it's own PME (TNC-S) system. I would have said it's creating it's own TN-S system. The "supply" being the tesla side of things, with 3 dedicated cables for L N and E coming from this supply to the customer (the consumer unit in this case). I have an off grid solar setup where I've joined the earth and neutral together at the inverter, and I view it as my own little TN-S system. Really keen the hear your thoughts!
Even tho the gas meter has been removed, surly it still needs bonding as it’s still a metal pipe coming out of the ground that is exposed. We always bond old exposed gas pipes in a property.
It's been disconnected from the house piping so it's not extraneous - the part in the ground doesn't enter the house or another building with an electrical supply. If you followed your rule you would bond every metal fence post, shed, greenhouse that contacts the ground.
there is no way you got 1 ohmm Ze on that rod im thinking you left the cable to the rod connected to the consumer unit you were measuring the pme and the rod in paralel not the rod its self
I really appreciate hearing from experienced sparks showing below par work, but in this case, could you elaborate why that junction box was bad? The connections looked like good solid wagos, there was good slack for maintenance. It's got no Cory magical disappearing loops 🤣 but apart from that, what was wrong? Keen to hear!
You calcs for max fault current on the 10mm to the Earth rod were based on 200 Ohms resistance not 1 Ohm. Potential fault current could therefore be substantially higher.
The PW2 is actually 13kwh not 10kwh, it also has better outside protection and temperature compensation as well as peak power than practically all of its competitors. When it was £7.5K it was a no brainier best solution on the market. Not sure now though with the price increase and waiting list.
What an absolute mess of an original installation, I’m guessing the owner did not read and understand the PW installation manual. We had one PW, and a second was added two months later with the third due next month. Adding an extra PW is easy, don’t forget to connect the data cables correctly and move the termination resistor. I’m no sparky, and don’t know any regs. 😁
I would've re-used the Earth Bond from the gas. As I understand there is no minimum CSA for the Earth rod for a TT system, I searched for it a while ago and there was no minimum in the OGS(that was 18th Ed original). Great video guys!
It's the same system broadly as a generator you may have for a temporary supply. Ideally it should be tested using the wenner method or similar to check fault current dissipation. the Ze you have tested is back to the supply TX which is isolated from the system when the power wall is islanded. Always enjoy your videos.
under ground or in a wall, the size of the wire matters because those environments can dissipate heat at different rates. a cable under ground can dissipate a good amount of heat quickly, but once the area is saturated with heat, there's that limit. it's a general case rule.
I don't believe the PW batteries can do any sort of DC coupling, they do however have a communication link back to the gateway, which I believe is specced to require fairly chunky cable, so that might be what you saw in the box nearest the battery...
I think some of the earlier ones did when Tesla partnered with SolarEdge, which given the SE inverter may be the case here - I was miffed as I have a SE inverter but it was too old a model to work with the PW in DC coupled form - I think Tesla then binned the DC version in favour of AC coupled only which is more universal albeit not quite as efficient...
Random question about battery's been installed on outer walls, there extremely expensive bits of kit, id be worried about theft in the future with shortage of them and the price of a unit, people just ripping or straight cutting them off walls and taking them, the more they become common place the more i can see it happening, whats your thoughts on this and realy trying to put them in a building somewhere
@@artisanelectrics yeh I get that but there worth a fortune those battery's. Groups could do it. I know motorways workers were already people are robbing the battery's from the temperary traffic lights as they have big sell on values. It's something to be concerned about the more of them that are installed I believe
You can install another powerwall infront of this one and they give you a guide to drill between the two and couple them together and all you need to do is use the remade AC link
No you can't in this case... the Powerwall in this video is wall mounted off the ground. To 'stack' the Powerwalls they have to be on the ground... and being outdoors that might cause a water level issue. Our Powerwalls are outside, and wall mounted side by side, and off the ground
Interesting how easy the installation is executed in other countrys, in Germany the Earth must be a V4A steel with 9.5m, and the cable must be not smaller than 16mm2, if you are using a seperate earth
Data and power running next to each other? When I used to install cable and internet we where told that is a no no because the AC field can interfere with the data lines.
Let’s be honest apart from the earth rod which was completely unacceptable the install wasn’t bad, I’ve had to clean up far worse jobs.
Two wrongs do not make a right.
@@johnburns4017 but it was one wrong
exactly my thinking if that's the worst install he has ever seen he has gotten really lucky so far
Yeah not to crazy, I've encountered a meth head running lines ran out of wire nuts and resorted to scotch tape. Also I guess he really enjoyed green wire it was every where as Power neutral and ground. I was impressed he managed to figure it out while high and not phased lol
@@koleka3233
It was a _bad_ job. Totally unacceptable.
Industrial sparks- Plenty of room in those junction boxes! 10/10 job.
Domestic sparks - oh my gosh more than 4 cables HELP!!!
100% true :P
Well said
Controls sparks- no terminal blocks, atrocious. No wire numbers, how are you supposed to find anything.
What are "sparks" in this context?
Aussie slang for a electrician.
(Not sure if other countries also call electricians sparks and sparky)
Clickbait title. Nothing wrong with the JB's. Rest of the installation looked relatively tidy. Earth rod wasn't even tested to begin with. Underground supplies not checked for before driving longer ER into the ground. Everyone can pick faults in others work!
John was this your install?
Braver man than me driving the earth rod in near a buried gas main. 😅
Probably why it was partially buried to start
It’s not a problem as the polypropylene pipe has to terminate at least a meter away from the house.
Apart from a little excess slack in the junction boxes and the additional joints/connections I dont think its worthy of the video title. Sure they could of done the earth rod a little better but still think the title is over critical. Kinda similar to each time you say consumer units are horrible or rats nest because they are not instagram ready.
I totally agree they do this so they get views
I wonder what the artisan title would have been if they were the structural engineers that visited the timber frame house lee butchered😂😂
@@JoeCHA136 hahaha, touché
@@JoeCHA136 haha true 😂
@@JoeCHA136 does that vid even exist any more of was it a sneaky delete
When you tested that earth rod you had the 10mm connected. Will get a parallel earth path back to MET and main water bond could be giving 1 ohm or even TNS helping. Rod could be 200+ ohms. Need to disconnect 10mm from MET or at rod
Let's assume it was, I'd be a little concerned that the earth rod is trying to make babies with something, maybe a gas pipe or an 9ld lead water pipe. Never seen 1ohm without it being too close to other services to meet regs, and that's when I did hit an old (disused) lead water pipe.
Yeap basically tested it as ZS. Not as RA.
@Artisian Electrics
German Electrician guy here 31 years doing so, and that earth rod alone is instant failure, as a prober earth rod should be at least go 2 meters down depending on ground s condition
a lot of new constructions have gravel side filings which are unsuited for Earthing, here we are by code forced to use Stainless steel Rods of 25 mm then 16mm² to equipotential bonding
depending on where they are installed.
Surge arresters can produce very high amps and voltages for some ms so the thicker and lower ohms to the Earth bonding / Rod the better, as that also prevents Copper and steel pipes and such from being eaten away by galvanic corrosion.
Here in germany its required your earth local is lower then 2 to 3 Ohms
Rlow so equipment to earth needs to be under 1 Ohm.
but yeah cleaning up such failures from previous companies is never fun, especially as when you touch it your on the hook.
Belgium is less than 30 ohms for an earth rod/TT system. I had to have several fitted around my property to get something that conformed as the original system was buried under the foundations when the house was built 40+ years ago and was giving 300 ohms
How wonderful it is to see someone ask questions about their work, and then see you take the time to answer them properly (debating)
Wish you were here in Denmark so you could do proper work here :)
We need more people like you
oh god, we do. I'm just lucky that i can ask either my father or grandfather for help and they would both take their time to explain it as thye just genuinely love sharing their knowledge and helping others.
I was an electrical clerk of works many years ago . I was quite young and some thought “wet behind the ears “ they got a big surprise .I did the job for 9 years. I was made redundant as you see certain organisations said that electrical work could be checked and tested by the electrician doing the job if they were in their organisation . Well since then I became self employed and spent lots of time and lots of people money rectifying other peoples work , oh yes the stickers with their organisations on were stuck all over the job . Great advert I thought ,best thing for me was this new idea .I have now retired and would like to thank these organisations for all the work that was put my way because of their operative’s “skills and dedication “
1 Ohm from that twig . You didnt disconnect the rod from the earth bar to test .
I bet the electrode was connected in parallel with the supply earth when it was tested. I've never seen 1 Ohm from a single rod. Using a wander lead was also a bit of an odd choice, should've disconnected the 10mm from the MET and tested between that and incoming line.
Yes to parallel earth path. By connecting to the correct breaker outlet, the fault current takes the path that it would do in reality. The reduced csa of the actual circuit phase conductor increases the loop impedance (relative to main incoming line), thus correct value - just thought same theory applies to a wander lead.
Title should have been . "The only Tesla power wall I have ever seen" .
The wiska boxes may have had slack in them. But there was no exposed copper and I don't think it's fair to try and pull someone's work to bits just to get a view. You need to get the big man back, the vids were better with him.
As an electronics engineer, watching electricians do calculations makes me cringe! 😁 Mixing power and current 😁
Hay Jordan nice vid.
The easiest way I've found to explain the earth rod for the power wall is:
When running in island mode (off grid) the installation needs to be disconnected from all live conductors (both L&N)...
On PME systems we cannot disconnect the neutral as its the same cable as the earth coming into the building.
The new earth electrode acts as the main earth when running off grid in Island mode. The power wall switches in a link between the earth electrode and the suppliers neutral to bond the neutral as its classed as a extraneous part when not in use.
They call it a PNB "protective neutral bond"...
Consideration should be given to the test readings when running in island mode as the although the suppliers neutral being bonded would lower the impedance (Zsdb) can it be relied on especially in a power cut..
Regarding the mention of a DC Coupled system:
The panels should never feed power straight into the batteries. That is a completely inefficient way of solar power usage.
The reason it goes into the inverter first is because the inverter will be able to distribute the power in the most efficient manner. The inverter determines when/how power needs to be diverted primarily. It also protects the batteries by determining when and how much the batteries need to be charged in order to still provide the house required power. It determines that if there is a storm or flood around the battery to stop sending power to it and divert it to the house instead or stop it altogether.
And that's just the basics.
Whoever installed that system under contract from Tesla should be reported and that system should properly be fixed if it is in fact dc coupled at all.
Does any electrician out there believe a Loop impedance of 1 ohm on a TT supply?
I can only assume you had the repurposed bonding cable attached to the earth rod when you did the Ze.
If that is the case, you measure the Ze of the PME supply plus the bonding cable plus the Wonder lead - including all the parallel paths.
+1
+2
Is it just me or did that look like the earth rod is still connected... considering how low that reading was, I suspect you are just getting the resistance of your wander lead and actually that earth rod is connected to the MET, it seemed very low... Would have been better to have disconnected the earth rod and then done a Ze as that is such a low reading, especially as we have had very little raid and its only a small earth rod..
The first outside box looked fine, once you pull it out a bit, its functional and maintainable, give me a bit of extra slack every time, just like you found with that earth cable, sometimes a bit of extra slack can really help.. The other box was a bit messy but again I am sure you could pick it out and it would be fine...
Title seemed a bit of a click bait as didn't seem too much wrong with that install, if I had been the installer I think I would have been pretty mad, even the consumer unit at the end looked pretty neat and tidy..
1 ohm is verry Low .. In Belgium we have alway put earth rods or earth loops in foundations ( TT net ) .. And i can tell you with that thin en short earth rod .. we never get it under 30 ohm ( Regulation say here lower or equil to 30 ohm to pass inspection ) .
We still use the 3 wire measring technique .. but i have seen an inspector measure between live and earth and got a similar reading ..
@@kittsdiy Interesting stuff, I believe our regs did think about going to foundation earthing for new builds but they backed out for now, probably will come in down the line, especially with solar and battery storage becoming more common it makes sense.. We have varying soil types in the uk, we can use additional small rods to get a resistance reading however most people just use the Ze reading as its easy but I agree getting around 1ohm for that sized rod would ring alarm bells..
What they said in the video is actually wrong, we are allowed a reading upto 1666ohms but you have to prove that it is reliably below that so you would have to take multiple readings over different weather conditions and over a varied time, the alternative which most people use is under 200ohms is seen as sufficient to no matter what the conditions in the worst case scenario will never get below 1666ohms... With a TT system we normally put a 100ma time delayed RCD (Although you can rely on just the 30ma RCD) in addition to 30ma RCD's for fault protection..
We still mainly rely upon the distribution network to provide us with an earth which is mostly the neutral split at the incomer which comes with its inherent risks which is why I think they did think of going to like you foundation earthing but think they backed out of it as there was PEN fault technology developed to get round the dangers but who knows what will happen in the next edition of the wiring regs..
@@steve11211 Here we have to put a main RCD of max 300mA as main switch of the consumer unit and 1 extra unit for the bathroom ( 30mA ) so all the circuits here have RCD protection . Earth has to less or equil to 30 0hm .. if it's higher in some case you have to put a 100mA MAiN RCD or it will not get approved .
It reminds me of my grandmother's cottage in the 60's. She lived in a small village near Stamford. I have no idea how the place was wired - it was probably done in 1940-41 when they bought the place and fixed it up, but there were plenty of round pin 5 and and 15 amp sockets. She would describe the electricity as "it's a bit slow today", and would on occasion go outside to water the earth rod to improve the situation. Everything would work better after that.
@@kittsdiy we have similar rules for TT installs, where you need a 100mA type S RCD at the incomer and the rod must be < 200 ohm. We generally only have TT installs in rural areas though and the majority of our installs are TN-S or TN-C-S, where the Ze is not allowed to be higher than 0.85 or 0.35 respectively. Since the 17th edition of BS7671 in 2008, 30mA RCD protection was mandated for all domestic circuits.
Nothing wrong in my eyes with the junction box wiring. In fact, to this electronic tech, he did it quite well. It's not the static looks that count, it's the *functional* look. And that represents availability of pulling out the available lead length for the purpose of servicing.
At 11:14, that wiring is a living disgrace. The box was too small for starters. If that is the quality you aspire to, please change professions - to one where craftsmanship is not a part of it.
Surely putting AC and DC in the same box is questionable at best to begin with? Doubly so if any of those are signal cables for the devices to talk to each other.
In my country it is mandatory to install AC, DC and control/data wires separatelly.
Agreed. I even clicked on the vid just to find out what was wrong with that junction box in the thumbnail. The other box at 11:14 is as John pointed out before me really not good because there's exposed copper. But nothing's wrong with the first box and putting it into the thumbnail is a weird choice.
Agreed, but labelling cables is an aid to quicker effective servicing. Generally, correctly sized enclosures allow cables to have the correct bending radius.
I think you’ll find the Powerwall 2 which that is, is 13.5 useable kwh. I do not like top entry into a Junction box that mounted outside, I seen so many fill with water.
The earthing conductor to the earth rod should have been disconnected at the consumer unit to get your Ra/Ze. The way that it was done you would have parallel paths. I would use a minimum of 6mm for earth rods as it’s stronger than 4mm. I personally use 10mm as it’s always on the van. 👍🏼
As an electronics engineer - it does pain me that electricians don't know ohms law off by heart without having to pull out a calculator app!....every heard of the Ohm's Law Triangle? I=V/R -> 230/200 = 1.15 amps.
Anyway using the highest possible Z of a TT is not what you should be using in your calculations - the lowest possible Z is what determines the cable size....no good assuming the TT earth is a maximum of 200 ohms where it could actually be a really good earth and be 1/4 of that. Still 10mm is enough regardless.
@D HJ Then you've got ETO's on board vessels who know a mixture of both. I don't fully agree with you though, although EE's don't work as often with their hands, they would be fine.. would just not be as quick to do the job as they haven't done it every day for years.
I'm an approved electrician so your comment is irrelevant. Stick to your own job please. Saying electricians dont know ohms law?! Cheek
We get it dude, you know the Ohms triangle (U=R*I)which im sure everyone here knows). He probably only used the calculator app to calculate and get the exact number instead of pulling out a sheet of paper and a pencil, and spending time doing the calculation.
@@TheFenrirulfr Sheet of paper and a pencil? lol...seems mental arithmetic is in short supply nowadays.
A very valid point about the max TT value!
If the max resistance (ZE) of the earth connection is 200 Ohms, then your calculated 1.15A is the *minimum* fault current that might flow, not the maximum. If the actual ZE is lower, the current will be higher.
? Do you mean if the ground gets wetter and more conductive for example. ?
Slagging off the work and in same sentence says I don’t know much about these systems ?
Who was the brave guy who hammered in an earth rod close to where a gas pipe is buried. Bet he was smoking at the time.
Really interesting video, good stuff! Very interesting to see that the powerwall uses a rod so that neutral can be referenced to earth just like the live supply. Alternative supplies are usually IT with a floating earth. Seems odd that the installers used flexi for what looks like a straight run up to the loft, would have been a lot easier to pull and looked nicer in regular pvc conduit. Oh, and absolutely no way was that 1.01 ohm reading from the rod!
14:06 The 10mm wire to the board/charger ? I still conected when doing the testing .. / the earth from grid and bondings still connected ... nope 1 ohm is impossible with such thin en small earth rod .. or it must be magic soil .. I usually have to put 2 -3 in to get 12 ohm earth restance . Altough i measure with the 3 wire method .. we don't do ZE tests in Belgium .. but should be simalar result ?
@@kittsdiy Yes, exactly what you said. To get a Ze for the rod it should be done at the board with the 3 wire earth loop impedance test and the cable to the rod disconnected from the MET to eliminate parallel earth paths. I think they maybe tested continuity of the 10mm cable between the MET and rod and that was the 1 ohm reading we saw, although that seems high for a 10mm cable unless it was a very long run.
The gateway doesn’t switch “instantly”, it’s very varied and depends on how current is flowing… a lot of the time you’ll get a dip and power loss enough to lose a computer etc - it’s not a UPS; it’s a common misconception. And there won’t be any DC cables going to the powerwall as powerwalls are AC only… the CAT5/6 cables in that first box you said were CT clamps were likely the comms cable between the gateway and the powerwall. (You asked! :D )
Yeah...quite often there's a marked difference in comprehension between electronic techs, and electricians. Where this always 'pops-up' is in discussion of multi-phase power, as opposed to 'split-rail' (this occurs more commonly in North Am systems, where domestic supply is almost always single-phase, but centre-tapped neutral/ground. Electricians state "split phase" because they think voltage, not current. The phase stays the same no matter where you tap the secondary.
Is the gateway switch basically a 3pole Contactor that breaks the connection of the supply to the house and the coil supply of the contractor is fead from the incoming supply. So once that is lost the contractor drops out and when the power comes back on the coil is re energized and goes pack to using the incoming supply
@@stephensaines7100 I claim antiphase because the output voltages of the centre-tapped transformer are 180 degrees apart relative to the centre tap. Voltage obviously drives current assuming loads. The terms line or phase are often wrongly confused, as my tutor used to ask 'phase relative to what' ?
Typical tradesman. Slating someone else’s work to big themselves up.
What’s frustrating is I’ve been trying to get onto the tesla installer list as we have a lot of enquiries and i want one myself. Then you see these installs and wonder why I’m struggling to get on the list. Difficult to get hold of anyone from tesla
Love the fact “we need to be quiet because baby sleeping” then 10seconds later start speaking normal without a cut in the footage 😁
My bad 😅
Definitely should scan where the gas main is before hammering a rod into the ground or just hope the last guy did. 😯
Had one installed a few years back (AC Coupled). It took 2 years waiting on Tesla, but has woked well. The outfit that designed/installed the system is "Swell Energy", in the SF Bay Area... When Tesla discontinued support for 3G... Swell came out and hardwired it with Ethernet... No charge!
I spoke with one of their engineers, who was quite helpful when our utility (killer, Pacific gas and Electric) derated the supply voltage, and the gateway shut off the solar and the battery.
U had heard that Tesla was no longer selling Powerwalls with 3rd party PV, or AC coupling.
The Tesla system isolates the supply side when it goes into island mode so it needs to have its own earth because it essentially disconnects the supply side earth. This is so a fault current doesn't end up on the supply neutral which someone may be working on in the street.
This is what I couldn't understand from the video, isn't that earth connected to the Tesla box so its only used when in Island mode? Admitting he didn't understand how the Tesla system exactly works is worrying, how would you know where to test if you don't understand how it works? Was that the right spot to be tested? Was it even wired correctly in the first place given the bad job they did of the earth rod?
@@alexatkin There is an earth terminal on the Tesla system which has to go to a local earth. That is all they really need to know for installation. When any system is installed it has to be capable of complete isolation from the grid if the grid power is off. This includes the earth even when it isn't neutral bonded. This is a safety thing for engineers working on the supply side. This said it is crucial that an earth is still available when its running isolated. An exposed earth rod like this is ok but it should be connected with a clamped braided conductor rather than the flimsy earth strap and rigid conductor they were using. It should have been completely enclosed to use the arrangement they had here and the conductor should be in a conduit.
In the event of a mains power failure, the switchover to battery power isn't always instant. It can be, but you can also be without power for up to about 30 seconds. No use therefore for keeping your computer going unless it's a laptop or has its own UPS. The most irritating feature though is that you have to reset the clocks on all your ovens!
You can but better and bigger systems but you will never pay than Testla. Plenty of them being removed in Australia, they fail with the hot summers.
In the US, the grounding system is all bonded together permanently, not switched. Perhaps what he referred to was the neutral being connected to it only when generating power, just like the "hot" conductors are switched.
The equipment your customer has is very similar to mine.
In July 2020 I had Joju Solar install a 9.6 kW solar array, Tesla powerwall 2 with gateway, 8kw inverter. In 2021 I had a Zappi installed. Everything working fine as best I can tell.
As for the gateway I don't know any more than you do but can safely say it works very well as I had a 19 minute power cut in late 2020 and only found out about it the following day when I checked the app. My burglar alarm system is very sensitive to power fluctuations as it sees any fluctuation in power as tampering and switches over to battery back up for a while. The gateway was so quick to enter island mode that the burglar alarm did not notice. I would have been home at the time and also did not notice.
My earth rod is in my basement/undercroft It is sunk into to the concrete floor and very much out of the way.
Another benefit of the Tesla powerwall is with octopus energy they have a tariff where Tesla takes control of your battery and you feed electricity to the grid at peak time. 4-7pm. You are paid 12.2 pence per kilowatt hour for energy you upload to the grid and the same price applies to energy you take from the grid. With the cost of electricity at the moment this is a very good deal and it wouldn't surprise me if they stop it at some point. During the winter Tesla/Octopus fill your powerwall overnight at the cheapest point (I still pay 12.2 pence for this) and during peak time you give it back to the grid (there is a 8 to 10% efficiency loss doing this). 20% of the battery 13.5kw capacity (2.7ish kw) is kept to one side for emergencies.
To be fair , the Tesla uses the earth stake as a reference to earth , its not actually classed as a TT system in this set up but forms a TNS instead
?? What is the ground reference for in this system?
Very dissapointing that Artisan have not clarified the incredibly low TT impedance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Amateur here ... but isn't it good to water-in an earth rod if the ground is dryish?
I was thinking that moisten the area for conductivity.
We all know one length of 9mm2 earth rod won't give PEFC of 1.01, no matter what you do, not even if you live in the middle of a bog, don't we? 😋 And that the "Loop test lead compensation" menu in Meggers settings only goes as high as 0,3, so not enough to compensate for a flylead this long. Any value below 10 Ohms in this scenario would be old gas bonding still attached or daisy chained to other pipes somewhere under the floor... But yeah - installation is safe for now. Good vlog.
3 wire test would say total different value .. Here earthing rod or loop has to be lower or equil to 30 ohm ..
Hi
I hat to point this out but you have made a fundamental mistake regarding the earth rod & it’s purpose
The power wall is a generation source as such require earth ref rode the earth rod resistance being no greater than 20 ohm to the local mass of earth which can only measured using 3 wire earth rod tester
You are creating a return path to the power wall not from it ti the dno local transformer which is what you measured I hope this helps
Loads of sparks think that TT needs to be at least 10mm but a good low resistance is 20 Ohms. At 240V that gives a PFC of 12A - hence a 4mm is sufficient so long as it has mechanical protection.
Nothing wrong with re using the cable if it’s right size
Always enjoy the UK sparky videos, nice to see how you guys do things.
I assume that was an Ra test at the end where it was using a wander lead ....
I'd be a bit suspicious of my test procedure if I got a 1.01 ohm Ra result on an earth rod that was originally loose enough to be removed by hand....
I'd be asking myself questions like what parallel paths might be in circuit or whether the earth rod skinned an underground SWA cable and is in contact with the armour or maybe even contacted an underground gas or water pipe.
All talks only about the power cables but what is with the data connection with Wago? In my eyes a very big fault - need correct extra boxes with correctly connectors in extra plastic boxes (or metal boxes for better saving against outside sun flow). Data cables use 10 MBit till 1999, then 100 MBit, since ~2010 1 GBit and ~2020 10 GBit. If they use fiber - no problem in electrical installation! The slacks are very good service entrance and I can cut without problems after 25 years installed 2 mm for new install after a check.
Very good in FR Germany isn't allowed that people lower "Elektromeister" installing data stuff. They must guaranty a correctly functions. Funny that GB test all power lines but not the data lines ...
Where was the gas pipe underground? 😄
Would be interesting to know what sort of reading you were getting from that rod 😂
I would have like to see a 3 wire measuring w/o the wire connected to the house .. ( tester on earth rod en then 2 pins in the ground ) . That would never be 1ohm ..
My giv energy is set up to disconnect from grid and power house in a power cut...so not just the teslas doing this. Great video guys
I install the powerwalls for a living in the UK. They are AC coupled only and there's no way of connecting a DC supply. Also all of those cat5 cables are the communication cables between the powerwall and the gateway. They seem to be using 4 of the cores for the 12v and comms where I use 1.5mm for the 12v as per teslas instructions.
There's a 1.5mm twin & earth for the DC supply there as well, one of the CAT5 pairs is for the Powerwall comms and one for the Zappi's grid CT.
That snapped crimp looks like its due to not using a crimping tool. it looks like a pair of pliers or cutters were used. I've got a battery crimping tool and it gives a nice hex shape.
5:35 But remember that the max draw from the power wall is 5kw for the GEN2 and 3.3KW for Gen1. Its NOT 10KW. The capacity is (gen2/3) 13.5kwh or (gen1) 6.4kwh. Just for a point of reference. 5kw really isn't that much for the US for powering a typical house. If you are just looking for lights, TV and fridge you would be fine. I have a 25kw generator, along with UPS' for critical loads until the generator gets going and online. Its natural gas based, and can run until the gas company runs out of gas! 😁 Great work guys! 👍
Run out of gas - in the uk that won't be long!
I dont think I would be banging in a earth rod by a incoming gas main....
Here in the US our code requires a 6 awg minimum unless it's protected from physical damage. That wire would fail our inspection because it's not big enough or not protected from damage.
Our regs require a 16mm tinned copper wire straight to the earthrod when exposed to corrosion. From main earth point in the house, you take a minimum of 6mm to the panel. Bonding is 4mm here.
Our max Ze is 166ø though. Only when everything is behind RCDs. If not, like in old houses, its 1.5ø
Great job as usual guys👌loved it.
Just a wee txt to let yous know my son finally got a level3 electrician course and employer sorted and starts tech on Monday 🥳🥳🥳😁😁😁
Iv never been happier ! Big shout out to Mark 121 for getting in touch with me and trying. Completely over the moon and if you guys have a spare Nick Bundy bag yous were chucking , kindly send it over here to Northern Ireland please 😂 lol
Well if this is the worst install they have seen it must be their first month on the job...
9:40 you really need to be careful of a power outage when you are working on it, need to shut off the ability of it to switch if there was a power failure while working on it.
?? Are there codes of practice for this relatively new complex type of installation yet, i.e solar, battery etc, etc? Takes me back to the concept of the firemans' swich outside shops - one switch to isolate the most dangerous high voltage equipment inside.
8:38 where is that a mess? That‘s absolutely fine
yeh Victron Multiplus has the same relay inside to create a local pme for the protected loads - I feed that into another dedicated rcd/rcbo consumer which has the critical loads such as fridge, boiler, alarms and tech
I feel very concerned about lack of neutral earth bonding relays, this is set out in IET Electrical Energy Storage System 2.0. Some manufacturers have schematics for island mode switch over but just power no N/E bonding. They qualify it by saying it must comply with local standards. This seems standard for EPS output to run one low current socket in UPS island mode. It feels like we are waiting for a fatality before the authorities will act.
As far as I'm aware, the Tesla gateway does do this; it when it islands the supply it disconnects the supply live and neutral, and connects the local neutral to the local earth.
The earth conductor is for protection not for load,and it should be well protected against mechanical,chemical hazard ,human error and weather conditions no matter of the size of the conductor.
Agreed ...not a professional install... compromised and thrown together...left UK along time back ....standards definitely fallen....great that this team can identify poor standards and rectify them....good on you Artisan
5:56 The Tesla Powerwall does not switch over quickly enough that it will function as a UPS for computers. We've found our Powerwall 2 takes about half a second to switch over. So my business computers still all have UPS power, albeit the batteries don't need to be replaced as frequently as they used to.
Ah that’s a shame - good info
1 ohm… probably getting a reading from the earthed gas pipe they’ve hammered into.
Pathetic , looks like three men from artisan have just discovered electricity, earthing and their first Tesla power wall , how can you have the cheek to call someone else’s work ? All I heard was , I think , I think , oh hang on I’ll ask the customer as he knows way more about these than me !
I am 99% sure bee's or mice are going to be living in old blue service box
Remember that the Powerwall2+ has a built in MPPTs so that could be why they fed DC is in
Please correct me if you think I'm wrong, but I wouldn't have looked at the tesla creating it's own PME (TNC-S) system. I would have said it's creating it's own TN-S system. The "supply" being the tesla side of things, with 3 dedicated cables for L N and E coming from this supply to the customer (the consumer unit in this case). I have an off grid solar setup where I've joined the earth and neutral together at the inverter, and I view it as my own little TN-S system.
Really keen the hear your thoughts!
Even tho the gas meter has been removed, surly it still needs bonding as it’s still a metal pipe coming out of the ground that is exposed. We always bond old exposed gas pipes in a property.
It's been disconnected from the house piping so it's not extraneous - the part in the ground doesn't enter the house or another building with an electrical supply. If you followed your rule you would bond every metal fence post, shed, greenhouse that contacts the ground.
The solar system/inverter should always run on its own RCD. We often just put it on a kombi relay type B RCD.
Two people are usually singing "I've Been Working on the Railroad" when hammering an earth rod. What's that tooth pick supposed to do?
NO,the answer to "if you`ve got 200 ohms is your a VERY wealthy person 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
there is no way you got 1 ohmm Ze on that rod
im thinking you left the cable to the rod connected to the consumer unit you were measuring the pme and the rod in paralel not the rod its self
Three guys and a cameraman, no wonder their rates are so high.
1.01 ohms on a single rod and no segregation on the data cable and supply cable up the same flexi conduit? am i missing something?
I really appreciate hearing from experienced sparks showing below par work, but in this case, could you elaborate why that junction box was bad? The connections looked like good solid wagos, there was good slack for maintenance. It's got no Cory magical disappearing loops 🤣 but apart from that, what was wrong? Keen to hear!
(Referring to the outside JBs here. The inside one you explained what was wrong and I def agree 😊)
The reason the main earth in a tt is bigger unprotected is because of the loss of copper due to corrosion. Over time it will breakdown and can snap.
6:09 Did Nick Bundy leave his bubbles on top of the Powerwall? ;)
You calcs for max fault current on the 10mm to the Earth rod were based on 200 Ohms resistance not 1 Ohm. Potential fault current could therefore be substantially higher.
I swear every tool these guys use looks brand new
Are they running line voltage and data in the same conduit?
The PW2 is actually 13kwh not 10kwh, it also has better outside protection and temperature compensation as well as peak power than practically all of its competitors. When it was £7.5K it was a no brainier best solution on the market. Not sure now though with the price increase and waiting list.
Do you mind me asking when it was that price and when they first became available for UK orders, please? 😇
You can't criticise this job if you don't understand how the powerwall works.
You really over exaggerated how bad that box was really wasn't that bad seen a hell of alot worse lol
What an absolute mess of an original installation, I’m guessing the owner did not read and understand the PW installation manual. We had one PW, and a second was added two months later with the third due next month. Adding an extra PW is easy, don’t forget to connect the data cables correctly and move the termination resistor. I’m no sparky, and don’t know any regs. 😁
I would've re-used the Earth Bond from the gas.
As I understand there is no minimum CSA for the Earth rod for a TT system, I searched for it a while ago and there was no minimum in the OGS(that was 18th Ed original).
Great video guys!
2.5mm is min or used to be protected
Verging on click-bait here.
Clutching at straws good electrical content
I can’t ever see them getting there money back.. what happens in a few years when something gos wrong ,if the system isn’t obsolete by then
It's the same system broadly as a generator you may have for a temporary supply. Ideally it should be tested using the wenner method or similar to check fault current dissipation. the Ze you have tested is back to the supply TX which is isolated from the system when the power wall is islanded. Always enjoy your videos.
OK you measured the resistance of earth cable to the rod circa 1ohm but did you measure actual earth rods resistance to prove less than 200 ohms?
under ground or in a wall, the size of the wire matters because those environments can dissipate heat at different rates. a cable under ground can dissipate a good amount of heat quickly, but once the area is saturated with heat, there's that limit. it's a general case rule.
I don't believe the PW batteries can do any sort of DC coupling, they do however have a communication link back to the gateway, which I believe is specced to require fairly chunky cable, so that might be what you saw in the box nearest the battery...
I think some of the earlier ones did when Tesla partnered with SolarEdge, which given the SE inverter may be the case here - I was miffed as I have a SE inverter but it was too old a model to work with the PW in DC coupled form - I think Tesla then binned the DC version in favour of AC coupled only which is more universal albeit not quite as efficient...
Skating peoples work again. People in glass houses shouldn’t throw stones
Random question about battery's been installed on outer walls, there extremely expensive bits of kit, id be worried about theft in the future with shortage of them and the price of a unit,
people just ripping or straight cutting them off walls and taking them, the more they become common place the more i can see it happening, whats your thoughts on this and realy trying to put them in a building somewhere
Someone would struggle as they weigh 150kg 😅
@@artisanelectrics yeh I get that but there worth a fortune those battery's. Groups could do it. I know motorways workers were already people are robbing the battery's from the temperary traffic lights as they have big sell on values. It's something to be concerned about the more of them that are installed I believe
I have 'security' devices on my outside wall mounted Powerwalls
The amount of narcissism in the first 30 seconds of this video is unbelievable
You can install another powerwall infront of this one and they give you a guide to drill between the two and couple them together and all you need to do is use the remade AC link
No you can't in this case... the Powerwall in this video is wall mounted off the ground.
To 'stack' the Powerwalls they have to be on the ground... and being outdoors that might cause a water level issue.
Our Powerwalls are outside, and wall mounted side by side, and off the ground
@@JustMeTalking fair enough didnt realise its off the ground
How effective is the ground earth after a very dry summer and the clay/soil shrinks?
Interesting how easy the installation is executed in other countrys, in Germany the Earth must be a V4A steel with 9.5m, and the cable must be not smaller than 16mm2, if you are using a seperate earth
Martin: ? What would you expect as an average ohmic impedance for an earth loop circuit to a ground rod, when you test the loop.
"This is a complete mess" = a junction box full of cable and Wagos. Full does not equal mess!
Data and power running next to each other? When I used to install cable and internet we where told that is a no no because the AC field can interfere with the data lines.