I have watched Shannon for about 10 years now, and I like his measured pace. He doesn't go too fast, and he explains details in a careful way. It really has helped me do things I wouldn't have done otherwise.
Doing a roof repair today up against a gable. This is exactly what I needed to know on step flashing. Thank you very much for taking to the time to pass along some tips of your trade. This helps me tremendously today!!!!
As a homeowner who is only somewhat handy, I love your videos. I hope you keep posting quality stuff. It helps out guys like me who just need a little bit of instruction to get things done.
Probably because we take pride in doing things right. His video randomly poped up and I commented how he nailed in the water way on another video. Nobody’s hating if anything I’m telling him how to properly do something he’s claiming he knows how to do
You have been a really good person with all of us sharing what you know explaining in a manner that everybody can do it, thank you very much from my heart,I been doing things only because what I been learning from you GOD be with you always.
Thank you so much for making these videos.. I'm always needed to do something around my house . When I'm lost or confused to what ever the situation or project. I'll find one of your videos and get back on track... Again Thank you!!😊😊
Thank you for taking the time to post this video! It was very helpful. I'm confident this is the source of a persistent leak on my roof where it meets the chimney.
thanks for the video. one suggestion; there should be a strip of building wrap/paper under the wall and step flashing protecting the sheathing from condensation behind the metal. The above building wrap then laps over the flashing as mentioned.
A few issues to point out Shannon: 1. Never metal to bare wood. Always put in a vapour barrier on the wall before the metal is installed. Avoids sweating 2. Nail the steps to the roof top outside corner. Nailing into the wall could cause buckling as the roof and wall move differntly in warm and cold weather. Also gives you the possibility of making step repairs in the future as the nails are accessible and not hidden behind the siding. 3. Leave a 1/2' to 3/4" gap ( I use 1/2" gap ) between the shingle and previous step ( channel ) to allow water to flow though and prevent blockage from needles or debris 4. The bottom wall flashing ( not the step ) should wrap around the wall and it's bottom leg should extend out under the step above it . I just remember metal should seam up to and overlap metal 5. The very bottom step flashing should extend out at least four inches past the bottom. You might need to use 2 steps to make this work I think what you've suggested would work, but there could be future problems. I'm a roofer here in Vancouver. Great work on all of these roofing videos.
Thanks for the tips" coffee troll ". I have one question ,when you say vapour barrier do you mean a membrane material or even a strip of house wrap? I would assume so as vapour barrier would not be on the exterior.
Just a point on your second issue about nailing to roof instead of wall. Great in theory, I learned this also but not realistic simply because when you nail the j-trim on the wall to catch the bottom edge of siding there will be plenty of nails through the step flashing and into the wall. I usually use a self sealing membrabe on the wood first before the step flashing goes against it.
WE INSTALL THE J-MLDG. but only with one nail at the far top left or top right end of the channel depending on what side you're going up the roof. By doing this, only one nail is going through the step flashing eliminating possible leaks from nailing down low into the J-mldg. slots. When the siding is installed into the J- mldg. it actually holds the J in place against the wall. You can also run a bead of compound at the base of the J as an extra precaution. We've been doing this for years, never had a call back..........We also install the ice-water shield where needed
the gaf videos recommends to nail to roof only , never to the wall. and I think it makes sense. flashing is a piece of roof( it gets glued by shingle too) system and should remain with roof body, while the walls/roof junction moves.
Always easy to do proper flashing on new construction, problem is most of us are reshingling a house, and in my case, there’s a layer of 1” insulation, strapping and siding already over the sheathing.
Question - when the shingles are meeting a wall on the "north" side (the side of the shingle facing ridge) of the shingle, L-shaped flashing aka "headwall flashing (continuous)" is used, and one lip of the flashing goes behind the siding of the wall and the other lip of the flashing goes on top of the shingle. Then another row of shingles is installed on top of that lip of the flashing to hide the flashing. How is that final row of shingles attached on top of the flashing? I was wondering this b/c if you nail the shingle on top of the flashing which punctures the flashing, there will not be another row of shingles to overlap the nail and direct the water past the nail like it does in the sidewall/stepflashing. Do they normally just use an adhesive to attach the that final row of shingle on top of the flashing? In your video, the shingle meets the wall on the east side of the shingles (sidewall connection) and nailing the shingle into the step flashing is fine since there will be another run of shingles overlapping that nail a few inches and directing the water past the nail. I understand I'm talking about a different kind of flashing and wall connection but I have only seen pictures of how headwall flashing and shingles should be layed out but none of the illustrations I've found show how that final row of shingles that are run on top of the headwall flashing should be fastened.
You would install an apron flashing over the last row of shingles. This is normally a coloured metal flashing ,maybe 3x3. It goes under the siding materials and is nailed to the wall while the bottom lip extends out over the last row of shingles and covers the shingle nails.
My house made in 1973 with aluminum siding would be very difficult to do flashing the way your saying. You dont just remove the bottom levels of aluminum siding, they do not come apart like that without ruining them, they would be bent. I am going to reroof as it was previously done by roofers, angle flashing slips up under the existing siding with no J channel and is left loose on the wall, not nailed. It is still nailed thru the shingles. On a wall with a slope, siding is loose along the edge and has room to slip up between siding and the wall. I have repaired an upper story corner of the house above the large 24" wide overhanging soffit on a sidewall. I removed the siding and used 1/2" plywood. I used Protec 200 from the small roof section going across that soffit roof and up the wall 2 feet. Then used a drape of Protec 200 to go down the wall overlapping the underlayment that came up from the roof. So in the corner where wall meets roof is solid fabric underlayment. I am going to flash with 7" by 8" pieces cut from a 14" by 50 foot trim coil. It is better than what was there, no underlayment wrapping, and angle flashing was 2" legs and 6.5" length and lousy exterior broken apart sheet rock sheathing.
Thanks for your video. I like your videos all the time and I'm at home inspector. I don't think so, We can put a nail on the surface level of the step flashing And you have to put the building wrap under the roof covering materials. This is a defective job
The step flashing helps direct any water that gets under the shingles back out on top of the next row right away a long 1 piece length has the water flowing down it a long ways and more chance that that water will creep sideways and off of the flashing on to the roof sheathing before it ever gets to the bottom of its length.. This make it less likely that you will get significant damage .
Do you have a video on how to flash an inside corner? I have an inside corner where my chimney meets the slope of the roof and back side of chimney is attached to gable end of roof.
After we moved into our house a couple years ago that we had a roof leak and what happened was whoever did the roof did not put flashing up at all....very frustrating to deal with.
HI, I am trying to estimate how many pieces of step flashing per linear foot or per shingle. I know this may depend on actual width of flashing. Though most pre-made step flashing appears to be 5 x 7" which doesn't provide much rise against wall behind siding material. Also I see some allow more overlap of step flashing across the top of the shingle and prior to the next end piece of shingle is installed. Your input is appreciated.
I have seen some roofers use some ice and water shield folded half on the roof and half on the sidewall and tar paper and shingles and flashing. Is that too much?
Good video once again. Question: If you were doing a new construction home that had no siding or if you had removed the siding, would it be a good idea to run the roofing paper up the wall about a foot just for added protection in addition to the step flashing?
But! What about the sealing of the flashing at bottom that goes round corner to vertical wall? Surely that will leak? Help! Im a builder, can to the basics but about to do my shed roof....but what about the first stel and around the conrner???
There would be a long flashing (not small step flashing) that goes up the wall under the exterior finish and comes out across the top of the metal roof rib and has a bend /kick down to the low part of the panel profiles
I like to put a dab of solar seal under the shingle and flash card! I use one or two nails as far from the wall as possible and squeeze a little muskrat oil for extra protection!
Thank you for the video. It's very good. One question, I'm attaching a patio roof around my house, and my wall siding is brick tiles. I can't remove to place the flashing under it. So, how should I put the flashing on it? It's a hip roof patio cover.
I kick the roof-to-wall past the corner a few inches then fold the side. Trace the angle on the step and cut it off even but leave a little kick out on the bottom to shed water. You can put a little goop in the very inside corner. I don't leave exposed flashing because it looks ugly. Don't nail the step too close to the wall because it may leak and maybe leave a 1/8” or 1/4" gap for water to flow on the path of least resistance
Really like your vids man. I have a passion for carpentry and do quite a bit of it. New home construction, reno's, roofing, etc. Alway's looking for little neat tricks and new way's of doing things as long as it's great quality work and over and beyond min.code req. This is another great vid. but I would go a step farther and run self sealing membrane up the wall first I alway's hide my step flashing and try to stay away from the corner when nailing. I also rap my corner's and tar the join.
I have a porch with a flattened peak with two slopes. So basically I’ll need to transition a long piece of flashing into the step flashing. Is that doable?
Thank you. QUESTION: do you use black caulk where the roof and the siding meet? If so, how much do you use? I was told by my roofer that using black caulk would cause other leaks and the water would go to other places.
With a long single piece the moisture that gets by the shingle to the metal just follows it a long ways down the roof and sometimes just rolls off under the shingles to the roof decking. The steps allow moisture to only travel a short distance and its directed right out onto of the shingles again.
Good info thank you! Can you tell me the best way to flash a dormer, pirmarily the apron, when the window sill literally sits right on the deck? There's approx 2" that I could turn up the leg of the apron. Is it just what it is? Any tricks I should know? Thank you
Put a roof-to-wall (the front L-metal on video) up to window flush to the window. So you might have to cut it to size. Wrap some to go around a corner or seal generously. 2 inches should be enough to get away with on a pitched roof but more would be better. You can caulk the edge that ends at the window to avoid leaking.
I run my roof to wall past the corner fold it back, run the first step past the corner and put a dab of poly in the lower corner and fold it over again and nail the top corner. 60% of the time it works every time.
Just wondering, I have to do step flashing against a wood sided wall. How do I go about doing that since there's no J channel to go underneath? Do I cut into the wall?
Awesome video. You do a simple yet great way of explaining the roofing process. You dont talk fancy. Thank you. Now I have a question, What if the siding is pre-existing stucco? How do you install the flashing then? Especially when the original roofer never installed it? Please help.
It wouldn't be step flashing then. There are other videos demonstrating a single long piece instead of the step flashing--and most will show why not to do it--impossible to keep the water from getting behind the shingles then. The one long piece becomes a highway for water to flow down behind the shingles.
My step flashing at the end of my roof is bent up about an inch and a half from my last roof job and just noticed a leak on the inside of my font porch has formed. Is nailing it down my only option I can push it down but it will not stay.
If you cant get it to bend enough to stay down I would first try taring the crap out of it and putting some weight on it for a few days to see it that will hold it down. If it doesn't work a nail may have to be used.
Prior to this video (pretty basic stuff) gents, remember to run your underlay up the 90s. I prefer to run min an inch or so higher than the height of the step flash, this gives that nail a second job, additionally securing the underlayment. Wrapped outside corners, always the way to go.
What I did at the front of this little dormer example with the flashing. visit me in the forum for more details if you want. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Flashing on face of dormer should wrap around corner and 1st piece of step flashing should wrap around front. Do not strip siding unless necessary. Inflated labor cost for homeowner. Dont leave flashing exposed. Nail Flashing through roof( always a chance shingle could lift because of expansion/ contraction). Ice and water barrier under all flashings. Just some tips from guy with 45yrs experience and counting
Can you skip the top nail on each step flashing since putting in the next step flashing will nail both down? You'd avoid one extra intrusion through the metal if you did.
I appreciate your caveat and will think on it. Would you, spot glue it or caulk it to hold it in place until the shingles' tar, locks it down? Certainly a nail through the flashing is the last resort.
What if the roof is already done and you need to put flashing on a roof window. Will contact cement or a caulk suffice? What is the best option? I’d rather not nail but if I have to I’m thinking only the upright portion of the flashing.
So why step flash when you could run the head wall as one piece Also you didn't leave a water channel like half inch gap to give the water space to get off the roof instead of under the shingles also roofing cement last forever if it never sees the sun
Step flashing will direct any water that gets under a row right out instead of one long piece that does not direct the water out until the bottom giving that water more chance of rolling off the step flashing and into the roof underlayment.
What do I nail the step flashing to, if my house doesn't have OSB sheathing, it has that black fiberboard stuff. the flashing pieces won't be long enough to nail to the studs.
Everything I've read is that step flashing should be nailed to the roof like a normal shingle, not to the wall (read that it can buckle). Most skylight manufacturers recommend roofing tar with each course as well. Why do you recommend nailing to the wall? Cheers... you have great videos.
@@roofmaster4403 won't the flashing get nailed through the shingle to the roof, as well as through the siding to the wall, both, even if you only nail it one of them during installation??
Hi, Shannon! Thanks for sharing all your knowledge. Curious how you’d form a seal against a painted brick wall and a shallow gabled porch (portico). I’ve seen lots of videos of sealing/flashing to wood/sided/unfinished/Tyvek walls, but what if the wall to which I’m attaching (& trying to seal the peak & gable against, then shingle over) is brick and/or masonry?
Against a masonary a slits are grinder into the face of the wall and metal flashing is inserted in a z shape. Search for pictures of chimney flashing to get a sense of what I’m saying.
I don't know about this demonstration--- So these white grit shingles are going to show solid black horizontal stripes between shingles? Doesn't look good. If that was not intended, then why show it in a how-to video?
@@HouseImprovements Incorrect. With nails just above the slots in the shingles, obviously the next shingle up is supposed to cover the nails and down past the upper part of the slot, so there should be no black showing on white shingles like this. If a roofer did this kind of work, I would fire him as soon as possible, and not pay one dime. Happy to take photos to court with me, if the roofer wants to go that way. I am not trying to be a "troll" or unfairly critical. This is just common sense. One can view any shingle manufacturer's recommendations, and they all show that the top shingle covers over the top of the slots in the shingle below. I seriously think you should remake this video.
So many negative comments. A lot of people don't like the way you're doing it Shannon. I'm no roofer, I have no opinion on the matter. Are there other ways of doing step flashing? There must be. I'd like to see a follow up video showing some alternative methods. Great content in all you vids so far, keep up the good work.
Some guys will run a membrane product across the roof and up the wall 12 " or so before shingles and some guys don't like the step flashing to show under the bottom edges of shingles.
![How To Replace One Shingle [3-tab style]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V48u9_tZepc/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Replace One Shingle [3-tab style]](/img/tr.png)
I have watched Shannon for about 10 years now, and I like his measured pace. He doesn't go too fast, and he explains details in a careful way. It really has helped me do things I wouldn't have done otherwise.
Doing a roof repair today up against a gable. This is exactly what I needed to know on step flashing. Thank you very much for taking to the time to pass along some tips of your trade. This helps me tremendously today!!!!
The way he did it it's wrong 🤣🤣🤣
As a homeowner who is only somewhat handy, I love your videos. I hope you keep posting quality stuff. It helps out guys like me who just need a little bit of instruction to get things done.
Amen bud
Thanks , we appreciate the feed back!
"Tru dat", said another homeowner.
Not sure why so many pro roofers are watching your videos, but you have helped me out tremendously. Thanks for all your efforts. Strong work!!!!
Right? There are always haters! LOL Thanks for watching
cause pro roofers like to watch pro roofers!
Probably because we take pride in doing things right. His video randomly poped up and I commented how he nailed in the water way on another video. Nobody’s hating if anything I’m telling him how to properly do something he’s claiming he knows how to do
@@TysonD916 If he asks for your opinion okay, but...I enjoyed. it and will be using it soon. Thank you
@@KenPrice-vj6ih if your into doing things the wrong way and putting a house at risk for interior damage I say go for it lol
Love all your videos bud. Dont know why you're absolutely cursed with trolls but us normal folks appreciate you.
You have been a really good person with all of us sharing what you know explaining in a manner that everybody can do it, thank you very much from my heart,I been doing things only because what I been learning from you GOD be with you always.
Thank you so much for making these videos.. I'm always needed to do something around my house . When I'm lost or confused to what ever the situation or project. I'll find one of your videos and get back on track... Again Thank you!!😊😊
Thank you for taking the time to post this video! It was very helpful. I'm confident this is the source of a persistent leak on my roof where it meets the chimney.
Dude, did STEP FLASHING, solve the problem around the chimney?
thanks for the video. one suggestion; there should be a strip of building wrap/paper under the wall and step flashing protecting the sheathing from condensation behind the metal. The above building wrap then laps over the flashing as mentioned.
A few issues to point out Shannon:
1. Never metal to bare wood. Always put in a vapour barrier on the wall before the metal is installed. Avoids sweating
2. Nail the steps to the roof top outside corner. Nailing into the wall could cause buckling as the roof and wall move differntly in warm and cold weather. Also gives you the possibility of making step repairs in the future as the nails are accessible and not hidden behind the siding.
3. Leave a 1/2' to 3/4" gap ( I use 1/2" gap ) between the shingle and previous step ( channel ) to allow water to flow though and prevent blockage from needles or debris
4. The bottom wall flashing ( not the step ) should wrap around the wall and it's bottom leg should extend out under the step above it . I just remember metal should seam up to and overlap metal
5. The very bottom step flashing should extend out at least four inches past the bottom. You might need to use 2 steps to make this work
I think what you've suggested would work, but there could be future problems. I'm a roofer here in Vancouver.
Great work on all of these roofing videos.
Thanks for the tips" coffee troll ". I have one question ,when you say vapour barrier do you mean a membrane material or even a strip of house wrap? I would assume so as vapour barrier would not be on the exterior.
A strip of house wrap would be great. I turn my underlayment 4" up the wall to get the same effect as suggested by seephor in the comments below.
Just a point on your second issue about nailing to roof instead of wall. Great in theory, I learned this also but not realistic simply because when you nail the j-trim on the wall to catch the bottom edge of siding there will be plenty of nails through the step flashing and into the wall. I usually use a self sealing membrabe on the wood first before the step flashing goes against it.
WE INSTALL THE J-MLDG. but only with one nail at the far top left or top right end of the channel depending on what side you're going up the roof. By doing this, only one nail is going through the step flashing eliminating possible leaks from nailing down low into the J-mldg. slots. When the siding is installed into the J- mldg. it actually holds the J in place against the wall. You can also run a bead of compound at the base of the J as an extra precaution. We've been doing this for years, never had a call back..........We also install the ice-water shield where needed
Love hearing about thoughtful methods like yours ozzie. Thanks for the tip.
the gaf videos recommends to nail to roof only , never to the wall. and I think it makes sense. flashing is a piece of roof( it gets glued by shingle too) system and should remain with roof body, while the walls/roof junction moves.
Wrong
Are you talkign about in case there's settling of the house and the wall/roof connection moves slightly?
Always easy to do proper flashing on new construction, problem is most of us are reshingling a house, and in my case, there’s a layer of 1” insulation, strapping and siding already over the sheathing.
Thanks for using the model. Makes it easier to understand👍
Great info, I have to do this. Why would you leave the bottom longer than the shingle so you see the edge, wouldn't it be nicer to hide the tin?
it lets the water take that longer edge and run off better, its there for a purpose
Which flashing hold up better? Aluminum or galvanized?
Is the first piece of flashing on bottom one piece of flashing?
yes
how do you finish corner, siding and trim?
there's a gap between 2 flashing top/bottom.
here's a example, how not do it.
qmax1969 Hi Max can you plz show in a small video how to do the right way and maybe tell us what avoid or not to do. Thanks
Yes qmax1969 the roof to wall flashing is too short needs to be even with the step flashing
Y que se enpaten las ranuras biejo menso
@@maurogonzales1349 viejo
@@MAZINKAIFER toy apunto de echar palo y no se a parado bien no quieres benir y con unas chupaditas la dejes correctamente parada
Question - when the shingles are meeting a wall on the "north" side (the side of the shingle facing ridge) of the shingle, L-shaped flashing aka "headwall flashing (continuous)" is used, and one lip of the flashing goes behind the siding of the wall and the other lip of the flashing goes on top of the shingle. Then another row of shingles is installed on top of that lip of the flashing to hide the flashing. How is that final row of shingles attached on top of the flashing? I was wondering this b/c if you nail the shingle on top of the flashing which punctures the flashing, there will not be another row of shingles to overlap the nail and direct the water past the nail like it does in the sidewall/stepflashing. Do they normally just use an adhesive to attach the that final row of shingle on top of the flashing? In your video, the shingle meets the wall on the east side of the shingles (sidewall connection) and nailing the shingle into the step flashing is fine since there will be another run of shingles overlapping that nail a few inches and directing the water past the nail. I understand I'm talking about a different kind of flashing and wall connection but I have only seen pictures of how headwall flashing and shingles should be layed out but none of the illustrations I've found show how that final row of shingles that are run on top of the headwall flashing should be fastened.
You would install an apron flashing over the last row of shingles. This is normally a coloured metal flashing ,maybe 3x3. It goes under the siding materials and is nailed to the wall while the bottom lip extends out over the last row of shingles and covers the shingle nails.
Should there be ice and snow up sidewall?
Would not hurt anything
Thanks for this video. Makes perfect sense.
Dont you need a 1/4 inch space between the shingles and the wall for expansion ?
My house made in 1973 with aluminum siding would be very difficult to do flashing the way your saying. You dont just remove the bottom levels of aluminum siding, they do not come apart like that without ruining them, they would be bent. I am going to reroof as it was previously done by roofers, angle flashing slips up under the existing siding with no J channel and is left loose on the wall, not nailed. It is still nailed thru the shingles.
On a wall with a slope, siding is loose along the edge and has room to slip up between siding and the wall. I have repaired an upper story corner of the house above the large 24" wide overhanging soffit on a sidewall. I removed the siding and used 1/2" plywood. I used Protec 200 from the small roof section going across that soffit roof and up the wall 2 feet. Then used a drape of Protec 200 to go down the wall overlapping the underlayment that came up from the roof. So in the corner where wall meets roof is solid fabric underlayment. I am going to flash with 7" by 8" pieces cut from a 14" by 50 foot trim coil. It is better than what was there, no underlayment wrapping, and angle flashing was 2" legs and 6.5" length and lousy exterior broken apart sheet rock sheathing.
Thanks for your video. I like your videos all the time and I'm at home inspector. I don't think so, We can put a nail on the surface level of the step flashing
And you have to put the building wrap under the roof covering materials. This is a defective job
Why do you leave some of the metal step flashing showing instead of hiding it under the shingle?
You dont need to that is just how I was shown to do it.
Thanks for the education. What is the advantage of step flashing versus one long solid piece of L-flashing?
The step flashing helps direct any water that gets under the shingles back out on top of the next row right away a long 1 piece length has the water flowing down it a long ways and more chance that that water will creep sideways and off of the flashing on to the roof sheathing before it ever gets to the bottom of its length.. This make it less likely that you will get significant damage .
Do you have a video on how to flash an inside corner? I have an inside corner where my chimney meets the slope of the roof and back side of chimney is attached to gable end of roof.
After we moved into our house a couple years ago that we had a roof leak and what happened was whoever did the roof did not put flashing up at all....very frustrating to deal with.
HI, I am trying to estimate how many pieces of step flashing per linear foot or per shingle. I know this may depend on actual width of flashing. Though most pre-made step flashing appears to be 5 x 7" which doesn't provide much rise against wall behind siding material. Also I see some allow more overlap of step flashing across the top of the shingle and prior to the next end piece of shingle is installed. Your input is appreciated.
2 pieces of 8×8 flash cards would be needed for every linear foot of shingles
Would it be okay to run a bead along the side of the shingle to ensure water doesn't somehow get underneath?
The whole idea of the step flashing is to direct it back out onto of the shingle below if it does.
your videos are great and thorough, nevermind the know it alls on here
Easy to understand instructions. Thanks.
I have seen some roofers use some ice and water shield folded half on the roof and half on the sidewall and tar paper and shingles and flashing. Is that too much?
Nope, that is a god idea
Thank you! Your videos are always so well done and helpful.
Good video once again. Question: If you were doing a new construction home that had no siding or if you had removed the siding, would it be a good idea to run the roofing paper up the wall about a foot just for added protection in addition to the step flashing?
would not hurt anything doing that.
What type of adhesive will work if you prefer not to nail the flashing? Contact cement or caulk? Will it hold the flashing in place?
adhesive won't do the job on its own.
Is that step flashing unequal length legs? Is it ok to have a 4" leg on the wall and a 3" leg on the shingle with an 8" flashing length"
So does the house wrap go over or under the step flashing?
over.
Awesome video thanks man!👍🏼
But! What about the sealing of the flashing at bottom that goes round corner to vertical wall? Surely that will leak? Help! Im a builder, can to the basics but about to do my shed roof....but what about the first stel and around the conrner???
What do you do in the case of a metal roof Instead of a shingle roof?
There would be a long flashing (not small step flashing) that goes up the wall under the exterior finish and comes out across the top of the metal roof rib and has a bend /kick down to the low part of the panel profiles
I like to put a dab of solar seal under the shingle and flash card! I use one or two nails as far from the wall as possible and squeeze a little muskrat oil for extra protection!
Thank you for the video. It's very good.
One question, I'm attaching a patio roof around my house, and my wall siding is brick tiles. I can't remove to place the flashing under it. So, how should I put the flashing on it?
It's a hip roof patio cover.
I kick the roof-to-wall past the corner a few inches then fold the side. Trace the angle on the step and cut it off even but leave a little kick out on the bottom to shed water. You can put a little goop in the very inside corner. I don't leave exposed flashing because it looks ugly. Don't nail the step too close to the wall because it may leak and maybe leave a 1/8” or 1/4" gap for water to flow on the path of least resistance
Super helpful video!
Really like your vids man. I have a passion for carpentry and do quite a bit of it. New home construction, reno's, roofing, etc. Alway's looking for little neat tricks and new way's of doing things as long as it's great quality work and over and beyond min.code req. This is another great vid. but I would go a step farther and run self sealing membrane up the wall first I alway's hide my step flashing and try to stay away from the corner when nailing. I also rap my corner's and tar the join.
Good tips BIGAL
Why doesn't your front pan extend onto the roof nor wrap around? Thanks 🙈🙉 🙊
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Why do you nail the step flashing so close to the wall? Wouldn't the water most likely be right along that edge?
But what do you do if you have stucco on the wall already and flashing underneath it? I have a leak in a similar area on my roof.
If you are putting flashing against brick what fastener would you use ? Tapcon screws?
that would work
Thank you. It's always informative.
They make a corner flashing that you can use on outside corners like this. You can form it to the corner and it is the best $1.50 you will ever spend!
Or use lead
What is you have metal roofing on existing roof.
Great video thanks for sharing 👍
I have a porch with a flattened peak with two slopes. So basically I’ll need to transition a long piece of flashing into the step flashing. Is that doable?
Great job
Love your videos. I like how detailed you are on all your steps.
I need to roof against a brick wall. Do you recommend using tapcons to secure the step flashing to the brick wall or something else?
Can you bent the step flashing?
So helpful Shannon! Thx
Could you also put ice and water Shield behind the step flashing?
Yes
Is 2 x 4 x8 flashing good size for step?
Thank you. QUESTION: do you use black caulk where the roof and the siding meet? If so, how much do you use? I was told by my roofer that using black caulk would cause other leaks and the water would go to other places.
No ,that is what the step flashing is there for ,to divert the water back out and down the roof
Thanks. How can I tell if there is step flashing? I've looked and am not able to decipher it.
What if the wall is stucco! Can you nail or do you screw?
Im building a addition room on top of my house , I think it would be little difficult for me to flashing to existing roof.
Awesome video. Why is step flashing better than a long solid piece of flashing?
With a long single piece the moisture that gets by the shingle to the metal just follows it a long ways down the roof and sometimes just rolls off under the shingles to the roof decking. The steps allow moisture to only travel a short distance and its directed right out onto of the shingles again.
@@HouseImprovements 👍🏼🇺🇸
Put ur nail at the top of you wall side of step flashing that way your next step covers the nail so they are covers the whole way up
Good info thank you! Can you tell me the best way to flash a dormer,
pirmarily the apron, when the window sill literally sits right on the
deck? There's approx 2" that I could turn up the leg of the apron. Is it
just what it is? Any tricks I should know? Thank you
Put a roof-to-wall (the front L-metal on video) up to window flush to the window. So you might have to cut it to size. Wrap some to go around a corner or seal generously. 2 inches should be enough to get away with on a pitched roof but more would be better. You can caulk the edge that ends at the window to avoid leaking.
MayonR has your answer .
I run my roof to wall past the corner fold it back, run the first step past the corner and put a dab of poly in the lower corner and fold it over again and nail the top corner. 60% of the time it works every time.
Muchas gracias, de verdad aprecio tu tiempo, paciencia y ganas de enseñarnos, muy buenos detalles.
Thanks so much Brother
Esta mal compa el metal horizontal tiene que pasar la esquina de la pared
Is it better to just put one strip of flashing than cut them into steps?
no
Great video, thanks!!!
Just wondering, I have to do step flashing against a wood sided wall. How do I go about doing that since there's no J channel to go underneath? Do I cut into the wall?
Is it a vinyl siding
Great video thanks for sharing
Great explanation!
Awesome video. You do a simple yet great way of explaining the roofing process. You dont talk fancy. Thank you.
Now I have a question, What if the siding is pre-existing stucco? How do you install the flashing then? Especially when the original roofer never installed it? Please help.
Ahh thats a whole other beast. Please come to my forum with your question and I can try to explain it. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Ca you use one long piece instead of smaller pieces?
It wouldn't be step flashing then. There are other videos demonstrating a single long piece instead of the step flashing--and most will show why not to do it--impossible to keep the water from getting behind the shingles then. The one long piece becomes a highway for water to flow down behind the shingles.
So what do you do if the step flashing butts onto a brick wall?
Thanks man. Get to work everyone.
My step flashing at the end of my roof is bent up about an inch and a half from my last roof job and just noticed a leak on the inside of my font porch has formed. Is nailing it down my only option I can push it down but it will not stay.
If you cant get it to bend enough to stay down I would first try taring the crap out of it and putting some weight on it for a few days to see it that will hold it down. If it doesn't work a nail may have to be used.
Prior to this video (pretty basic stuff) gents, remember to run your underlay up the 90s. I prefer to run min an inch or so higher than the height of the step flash, this gives that nail a second job, additionally securing the underlayment. Wrapped outside corners, always the way to go.
Whats the difference between step flashing and L flashing?
Excellent job thank you for the info.
Wtf That's a horrible job 🤦♂️🤦♂️
How would you shingle an add on porch roof if it buts up against a wall at the top?
What I did at the front of this little dormer example with the flashing. visit me in the forum for more details if you want. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Flashing on face of dormer should wrap around corner and 1st piece of step flashing should wrap around front. Do not strip siding unless necessary. Inflated labor cost for homeowner. Dont leave flashing exposed. Nail Flashing through roof( always a chance shingle could lift because of expansion/ contraction). Ice and water barrier under all flashings. Just some tips from guy with 45yrs experience and counting
Very nice demo.
Thank you
Can you skip the top nail on each step flashing since putting in the next step flashing will nail both down? You'd avoid one extra intrusion through the metal if you did.
true enough
Good idea
I have to disagree, you should never nail thru the step flashing. You can adjust your shingle nails over to keep from nailing in the flashing.
I appreciate your caveat and will think on it.
Would you, spot glue it or caulk it to hold it in place until the shingles' tar, locks it down?
Certainly a nail through the flashing is the last resort.
What if the roof is already done and you need to put flashing on a roof window. Will contact cement or a caulk suffice? What is the best option? I’d rather not nail but if I have to I’m thinking only the upright portion of the flashing.
So why step flash when you could run the head wall as one piece Also you didn't leave a water channel like half inch gap to give the water space to get off the roof instead of under the shingles also roofing cement last forever if it never sees the sun
Yeah no seen so many roofs with the step flashing causing the shingles to lift up and it looks horrible all cause they weren’t nailed.
Yes avoid nailing the step flashing on the roof surface, nail the vertical part of flashing along wall only
why do you need step flashing vs 1 large L flashing instead? Is it because it would stay under the shingle until the end of the long L?
Step flashing will direct any water that gets under a row right out instead of one long piece that does not direct the water out until the bottom giving that water more chance of rolling off the step flashing and into the roof underlayment.
@@HouseImprovements ok thank you for the reply
What do I nail the step flashing to, if my house doesn't have OSB sheathing, it has that black fiberboard stuff. the flashing pieces won't be long enough to nail to the studs.
There should be plywood under the fiber board.
So, do you put a sealant on top of the flashing? To keep the water from seeking into the tiny space between the flashing and the wall?
The house wrap on the wall would go over the flashing.
Great video! Exactly what I needed to know for my job coming up! I feel more confident now! 🙏🏼 But whats a J chanel? 😅
Everything I've read is that step flashing should be nailed to the roof like a normal shingle, not to the wall (read that it can buckle). Most skylight manufacturers recommend roofing tar with each course as well.
Why do you recommend nailing to the wall?
Cheers... you have great videos.
jim77004 you can fasten Flashings to either the wall or roof deck BUT not both, they will buckle
@@roofmaster4403 won't the flashing get nailed through the shingle to the roof, as well as through the siding to the wall, both, even if you only nail it one of them during installation??
@@alexgrubb6640 a couple nails here and there thru the step flashings when you're fastening the j-channel is no big deal...
Hi, Shannon!
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge.
Curious how you’d form a seal against a painted brick wall and a shallow gabled porch (portico). I’ve seen lots of videos of sealing/flashing to wood/sided/unfinished/Tyvek walls, but what if the wall to which I’m attaching (& trying to seal the peak & gable against, then shingle over) is brick and/or masonry?
Daniël I have exactly the same problem did you ever get an answer to your question?
See the episode of "this old house," they have sent out. For "OUR" perusal.
Against a masonary a slits are grinder into the face of the wall and metal flashing is inserted in a z shape. Search for pictures of chimney flashing to get a sense of what I’m saying.
What is the black paper??
tar paper or better yet use stick on membrane like ice and water shield.
Nice video, will help us a lot. Thank you so much!
I don't know about this demonstration--- So these white grit shingles are going to show solid black horizontal stripes between shingles? Doesn't look good. If that was not intended, then why show it in a how-to video?
I did not design the shingles, this is how they look.
@@HouseImprovements Incorrect. With nails just above the slots in the shingles, obviously the next shingle up is supposed to cover the nails and down past the upper part of the slot, so there should be no black showing on white shingles like this. If a roofer did this kind of work, I would fire him as soon as possible, and not pay one dime. Happy to take photos to court with me, if the roofer wants to go that way. I am not trying to be a "troll" or unfairly critical. This is just common sense. One can view any shingle manufacturer's recommendations, and they all show that the top shingle covers over the top of the slots in the shingle below. I seriously think you should remake this video.
Good job!
Great infor. Thank you.
So many negative comments. A lot of people don't like the way you're doing it Shannon. I'm no roofer, I have no opinion on the matter. Are there other ways of doing step flashing? There must be. I'd like to see a follow up video showing some alternative methods. Great content in all you vids so far, keep up the good work.
Some guys will run a membrane product across the roof and up the wall 12 " or so before shingles and some guys don't like the step flashing to show under the bottom edges of shingles.