Awesome video, thanks Grimmspeed! Took me and a friend about five hours to complete, including beer drinking, heat wrapping, and BS'ing time. Made sure to put in all new grimmspeed gaskets . Edit: I found it easiest to remove the uppipe by dropping it a bit towards where the manifold was, turning it, then pulling it out from the back where the downpipe was
'02 wrx wagon: Mostly used 10, 12, and 14mm sockets/wrenches. Mostly 14mm. Highly suggest hex only to loosen/tighten bolts, instead of 12 point sockets, if your underside is super rusty (almost stripped a few bolt heads). Boost kicks about 1k rpm earlier, and she drives better than ever. Great upgrade, part, and video guide. Thanks GrimmSpeed!
@@noahhumphrey2293 Yup it fit on my stock block and manifold, but I needed a buddy to help me a couple times during the install to make things easier. Also now that it has been a while since I did the install, make sure you get a really good seal on your gaskets when you are putting everything back together. I have an exhaust leak somewhere after the install but it is only noticeable when it is super cold like -10 F. Haven't failed emissions, so it's not a big deal. Best of luck with your install!
I just installed my GS up-pipe a couple of weeks ago, lots of things explained in here that I certainly struggled with, even after heavily researching my install. Excellent tutorial video, excellent up-pipe! Thanks, GrimmSpeed!
This video helped me so much. I did this by myself in my driveway in about 5 hours, going slow and taking breaks. I used all new gaskets except for the crosspipe because I didn't take that apart. I did end up jacking the engine up because I couldn't seem to wiggle the up pipe out. It runs harder, spools faster, and is a big relief getting that problem cat out. Thanks again for the video demo!
Its not absolutely necessary but I would recommend it. It helps slow the corrosion on the cast iron collector and more importantly it helps reduce the amount of heat that is bathing the bottom of the block. I would strongly recommend installing at least the upper heat shield on the passenger side. -Matt H.
We understand your pain. We are located in the upper midwest and see our fair share of snow each year. I don't know how Canada manages their winter storms but Minnesota use lots of salt which wreaks havoc on our cars. It's the never ending battle.
Yes, all of our current up-pipes come with the upper and lower gaskets. Additionally I would look at replacing any gaskets at any connection you disconnect during the installation. For example the turbo to down pipe, down pipe to cat back, as well as the exhaust manifold to head gaskets. -Matt Homes
Yup, you can easily run your stock header with a GS EWG up-pipe, no worries there! You don't even need to run the EWG yet, you can get one of our block off kits so you can add an external waste gate later on, pretty modular system! -Matt Homes
@HoldeyMoeBeel Haha good question! It was actually on our race car and we had already removed so much to do the install, didn't think it would throw anybody off! Will
Correct, I would get the manifold to head gaskets (pair) and the turbo to down pipe gasket. If you leave the header assembled you won't need the cross pipe gaskets, but it never hurts to get fresh ones in there. Remember pre turbo exhaust leaks can easily rob you of 10-30hp all day long. -Matt Homes
If you are removing the stock down pipe and heat shield system its much easier to just remove the down pipe. You can technically un-bolt the bell mouth of the down pipe and push it backwards several inches, but its much easier to just remove it. Keep in mind that the bell mouth of the down pipe is above two nuts you need to reach to remove the up pipe. ~Matt
There are 2 nuts holding the motor mounts to the x-member. Make sure you remove both nuts. This will allow you to gain the inch or two of clearance you will need to sneak the stock up-pipe out. In regards to the O2 sensor. If you are having difficulty removing the sensor and its still on the car you might want to unhook the sensor from the harness and leave the sensor in. You can remove it once the collector is off the car. Try some heat on the manifold, might help the sensor come out.
You want to remove the OEM cat for several reasons. First off, the OEM cat is a major restriction and can kill spool up times, making your turbo lag, less power. Also, the OEM up-pipe from 2002-2005 has an EGT probe in it. As this probe ages it can be prone to failure and if it breaks off it will more than likely go through your turbo making a mess! You should get tuned for this upgrade, you run the risk of over boosting if you don't. -Matt Homes
Yes. Since there is less of a restriction in the up-pipe now you run the chance of over-boosting and running lean. You and your vehicle will benefit the most by having your tuner tune your vehicle for this specific modification. -Matt Homes
3 but the purpose of the wg, infernal or external ks to do very the exhaust gasses around the tu r bine. how does it do that if not plumbed in before the turbo
one thing to add when using any AM uppipe is that it will increase lagg and top end(minor) the other thing to make sure is that the pipe inlet is the same as your headers outlet as if there is a difference in size it will chew up gaskets and you will eventually need to match to two pipes(e.g buy new headers or go back to old uppipe) otherwise a choice video
You should be able to leave the upper (closest to block) on. In regards to the O2 sensor, its easiest to buy the specific tool to remove the O2 sensor and then once the sensor is removed, then you can remove the lower heat shield. The best way to gain easy access to the O2 sensor and the manifold to up-pipe bolts it to remove the passenger side wheel and go through the access panel in that area. Let us know if there is anything else we can help with. ~Matt
As long as you still have the cats in your downpipe it is not as critical to get a tune immediately. Once you get an aftermarket downpipe I would highly suggest getting a tune for both the Up Pipe and downpipe at that time. Hope that helped ya. - Justin Grimm
Balancing velocity/spool time/ and over all volumetric efficiency is exactly that, balancing. Yes, by increasing the internal volume of the up-pipe with an aftermarket up pipe, velocity will decrease slightly. However, the stock unit is prone to failure over its life span, especially the "flex" section on the OEM unit. The flex in the stock unit is more of a slip joint that a true flex, and we have seen plenty of them leak, if not fail completely over time. -Matt Homes
@bloodstriper None what so ever, that is our precaution to make sure that use this pipe under your own discretion choice. Most of our customers do use this on the street.
Now I mean.. What's the actual power gains? Or torque? I got an 03 WRX and am thinking on this. I was also told though catless up pipe no tune, catless downpipe yes tune. Who's right their?
@sergsrt8 Great question! The downpipe is actually different, it connects the exit of the turbo to the res of your exhaust. The up pipe connects the exhaust manifold to the entrance (exhaust side) of the turbo. Will
No you definitely won't have to drain oil or coolant. It will be much easier to work around if you take the TMIC off, that s real quick to pull out and reinstall. The write up you read is a person most likely removing the turbo at the same time, that isn't necessary. Let us know if you have any questions. -Matt Homes
wait, the waste gate actuator has been deleted, and the flapper permanently closed, and there's no wastegate on the up pipe, so is it just running full Boost?
It really depends on the year vehicle. Higher gains will be seen on pre 2005 vehicles that have the OEM catalytic converter in the up-pipe. On the newer vehicles that have a catless up-pipe, slightly smaller gains will be felt but this quality piece is a good insurance policy, OEM pipes are prone to failure over time. If I can get some more details on your modifications and engine size I can give you a more detailed response. -Matt Homes
@grimeyspecv Yes you can. It is actually the easiest way to do it. You will want to remove the heatshield from the 4-port exhaust manifold to get to the up-pipe to manifolds bolts. The rest will be easy to do with the turbo out of the car. Taras
You definitely aren't going to lose power with this modification! It just isn't as noticeable of a bump like the 2.0L catted up-pipes see when swapping those out. It is also a great insurance policy moving forward, and on the high end our high flow up-pipe will feed the turbo longer than the OEM catless one will. Let me know if there are any more questions or concerns you have. -Matt Homes
Matt, You can install this pipe just fine without installing a new turbo. I bet they were talking about using a new gasket, that would make more sense. Let me know if you have any other questions. -Matt Homes
@themisiek2 Yes the installation is the exact same, you will need to remove your downpipe for additional room to set up the waste gate and dumptube, but the whole process is very easy!
Beware, GrimmSpeed up-pipe only comes with 1 up-pipe to turbo gasket and 1- header to up-pipe gasket. You will NEED to buy a new d/p gasket seperate. I don't know why they did not include this since the d/p will obviously need to be remove.
Lmao dont spread false information. The downpipe DOES need to come off to access one of the hidden up pipe bolts otherwise good luck trying to remove the up pipe.
@bloodstriper it comes with new bolts to connect to the exhaust manifold and new studs to connect to the turbo but gaskets are extra. We do offer them though and they are cheaper than OEM and are 22% thicker as well!
Great video man but my down pipe the nuts and bolts have been rounded 😩im very stuck trying to find a solution may need to cut them out with a grinder, cant get the grinder on the back of the flange at the bottom of the up pipe though
Rounded nuts can be a frustrating problem. Sometimes hitting them with some pbblaster and a torch helps. Otherwise you have to cut them off and get new studs. You may just have to drill out the stud. You'll go through some bits but it may be the only option.
Steve, If you vehicle had a cat in it already then it will be slightly louder but it will not change the Boxer Rumble". Let us know if there is anything else I can help you with. -Matt Homes
Technically you don't need a tune, but you are removing the cat, and changing the flow characteristics of flow and spool. TO ensure the health of your vehicle you should be tuned for modifications like this ti obtain the most out of the modification. -Matt Homes
@UnknownProductions0 You should always replace these gaskets when doing this install to insure a proper seal, nothing worse than having to go back through it! Will
Thanks for the video, I just installed one and found the engine mount bolt (to raise the engine) not reachable with a larger than stock sway bar, I didn't want to undo the subframe to get to it so I lossened the turbo and pushed the old uppipe up and it clear it. I also had the downpipe out so it flew right out!
@UnknownProductions0 Yeah you could do that for sure. You are more than likely going to need to loose everything(both sides) up though then tighten down. - Justin Grimm
nice material but so close to valve cover on my 06 wrx. should have made it like oem where theres space to use a heat shield. i read lot of posts of where users had valve cover leaks shortly after using this up pipe. the close contact heat exposure eats away the moon seals at the rear side. This is common with using aftermaket exhaust parts. but grimmspeed up pipe is quite close to the v. cover and can do better.
About to install in a couple of days , question - does the 02 sensor have to be removed or can the wire/clip be fished out through the heat shield hole ?
This video helped me a lot. Watched it probably 5 times throughout installing my uppipe. I do however wonder why they have an IWG wastegate bracket on the turbo, when the factory uppipe is still in place. Product placement much?
Hey will, I have a Hks TurboBack exhaust system. I purchased it about 5 years ago off a 2006 STI. I have a 2006 Wrx Tr. The guy worked at Velocity Trends and was making his STI stock again to sale so i got a good deal. They installed the exhaust system for me but did not install the up pipe. Honestly at the time i was new to the game and didn't even know it was an up pipe he was giving me with the system. I did not get the bolts to it or Gaskets. It looks identical to the grim speed one
I noticed that on your website it says gaskets are included, does that include exhaust manifold gaskets? I also recently noticed that my turbo to downpipe stud vanished. Does anybody know what the replacement part number is?
The Up Pipe Kit will include Up Pipe to Turbo and Exhaust Manifold to Up Pipe Gaskets, you'll have to purchase the Exhaust Manifold pair separately. Hmm, unfortunately that's not one I know.
I'm struggling with removing the exhaust manifold from the headers because of sheared bolts on the heat shield. Is it possible to just remove the portion that is connected to the up pipe? Or is that not recommended?
@@DJKBEATS it's not too bad you might as well jack the engine up on that side tho made it alot easier. Second set of hands is helpful too. Definitely get the grimmspeed thicc gasket for the header to up pipe that was a 🐻 to seal up properly. Very good results tho once I had everything installed right. Good remedy for some of that turbo lag
I've got a bung on mine for the o2 and I got the XPT stage 2 tune to flash which should deal with any CEL's but I'll definitely lift the engine for the up pipe. I just bought a cheap DP, headers, up pipe and cat back set up for now that comes with gaskets so if they dont seal properly I'll get the grimmspeed thick ones. If for some reason it throws the CEL, where did you plug in the resistor? Or did you remove the clamp and solder it where the clamp used to be?
Bjarne, The OEM up-pipe you replaced had a cat in it. Since you have removed this form the system you could encounter some over boosting. If you haven't done so already, pick up a 3-port BCS and get your vehicle tuned, you won't be disappointed. If you have any further questions, feel free to give us a ring 612-379-0000. -Matt Homes
Going to be doing this install tomorrow night. Rather than pull the exhaust manifold off at all, why cant the up pipe be fished out from the top once all the bolts are removed, and slid back down on to the manifold? I understand based on the previous post you wanted to replace the manifold gaskets but it looks like it can be easily done, especially with the down pipe removed.
Ok I just finished my whole install and I had an EGT in my up pipe, it is currently throwing a code. Will the 2.2 kohm resister just clear the code? or now that I've got one am I going to have a problem? Thanks
Theres no way to remove the upper bolt from the manifold to the up pipe with the upper heat shield in place correct? Also you did have to remove the o2 sensor to get off the upper heat shield off right? Im doing my up pipe now, and have the upper shield still above the manifold and cannot get to the upper up pipe to manifold bolt out. So Im guessing the car you did the video with doesnt have the upper shields in place anymore?
Thanks, I was able to finally drop down the the passenger manifold, but my bigger problem is the 02 sensor is really stuck in there. I have the 02 removal tool, sprayed the sensor threads with PB and still wont budge! Also, I cant seem to see a way to pull the up pipe down without jacking the engine. Is the nut for the motor mount the one near the passenger wheel area, or the one in the back behind the sway bar? Thanks for all the help!
Most instructions I have seen say you need to jack up the motor (forester, wrx). Is that just to make it easier, or won't an up-pipe go in unless the motor is lifted? Thanks for the video, by the way!
I got a question, if you want to replace just the gasket that connects from the up pipe (lower section) to the exhaust manifold do I need to take apart everything and replace gaskets for the head and what not? I noticed there's a small leak in there and its loosing boost + makes an awful noise when I let off the throttle, also what gasket would you recommend I have a 3" up pipe. Thanks for the vid btw! Can't wait to get one and put on an EWG :D
I ordered one of these on ebay and its very nice, came with two fresh gaskets both multi layer steel! but no studs! my old ones are rusted in place so now my whole reassembly is on hold :(
I see you made this comment 2 years ago but I just want to reply, I ordered original studs from subaru but the tread was different on the new uppipe, it had 1.5 where subaru uses 1.25. So I had to order new studs again! I couldn't drive my car for 2 weeks because of this.
Why do you want to get rid of the cat? I'm getting an 02 wrx wagon and it's all stock exhaust. Do I need to get the uppipe first? Does it have to be tuned afterwords? I'm new to this but really want to learn. Sorry if it's a stupid question.
without the heat shield on it. Where could i get all the bolts and gaskets before attempting this job? I am in need of installing this on my car soon and was wanting to try and tackle this job with a friend but i want to make sure i do it right. I can send pictures of what i have if need be. My down pipe is a 4 inch down pipe also if that info helps. It does not look too difficult of a job to do but nothing ever is as easy as it looks i am sure! Thanks in advance! Also any pointers for a newb?
Hi i have an 05 legacy gt turbo. I was thinking about doing up pipe, down pipe, res delete, and 850 injectors. with protune what kind of power gains can i expect? Any other recommendations for mods (specifically with oil system)? Thanks
Can you list all the gaskets needed to replace during this install. I know the up pipe comes with the appropriate gaskets from the up-pipe to turbo, and up-pipe to manifold. But you replaced the downpipe gasket, and 2 manifold gaskets??
Two questions, Why does the Downpipe have to be removed? And are you removing both sides of the exhaust manifold or just passenger side? Need to know which Gaskets to buy in advance.
Justin, To answer your first question, you need to remove the down pipe because it sits directly above the two rear studs on the up-pipe. Secondly, you can remove just the passenger side of the header if you like, or the entire header, we recommend the 2nd. If you remove the entire header and leave it assembled to the cross pipe then you only need to replace the header to head gaskets, which are sold in pairs. If you remove half of the manifold, the you need those same gaskets and a set of cross pipe gaskets. Let me know if you have any other questions! -Matt Homes Operations
So I found a very nicely done write up but it was saying I would have to remove intercooler, turbo, drain the oil and coolant. I am just curious if this is true
Awesome Vid!!! I've watched it prob 10x now. Anyone know what size/thread those nuts are to snug down the studs? I'm getting the EWG Uppipe on Tues. just don't want to have to guess or make 5 trips to the Home depot.
Will a larger diameter uppipe cause more turbo lag but increase high end power? And how likely will the oem Egt probe being sucked into the turbo running on stage 2?
Tune is not required for an up pipe, but you can benefit from one. The down pipe does require one, some people get that backwards. :)
Awesome video, thanks Grimmspeed! Took me and a friend about five hours to complete, including beer drinking, heat wrapping, and BS'ing time. Made sure to put in all new grimmspeed gaskets .
Edit: I found it easiest to remove the uppipe by dropping it a bit towards where the manifold was, turning it, then pulling it out from the back where the downpipe was
'02 wrx wagon: Mostly used 10, 12, and 14mm sockets/wrenches. Mostly 14mm. Highly suggest hex only to loosen/tighten bolts, instead of 12 point sockets, if your underside is super rusty (almost stripped a few bolt heads). Boost kicks about 1k rpm earlier, and she drives better than ever. Great upgrade, part, and video guide. Thanks GrimmSpeed!
Hey bro, did this fit on a stock block and manifold?
@@noahhumphrey2293 Yup it fit on my stock block and manifold, but I needed a buddy to help me a couple times during the install to make things easier. Also now that it has been a while since I did the install, make sure you get a really good seal on your gaskets when you are putting everything back together. I have an exhaust leak somewhere after the install but it is only noticeable when it is super cold like -10 F. Haven't failed emissions, so it's not a big deal. Best of luck with your install!
I just installed my GS up-pipe a couple of weeks ago, lots of things explained in here that I certainly struggled with, even after heavily researching my install. Excellent tutorial video, excellent up-pipe! Thanks, GrimmSpeed!
This video helped me so much. I did this by myself in my driveway in about 5 hours, going slow and taking breaks. I used all new gaskets except for the crosspipe because I didn't take that apart. I did end up jacking the engine up because I couldn't seem to wiggle the up pipe out. It runs harder, spools faster, and is a big relief getting that problem cat out. Thanks again for the video demo!
Its not absolutely necessary but I would recommend it. It helps slow the corrosion on the cast iron collector and more importantly it helps reduce the amount of heat that is bathing the bottom of the block. I would strongly recommend installing at least the upper heat shield on the passenger side.
-Matt H.
Good to hear! There is definitely more than one way to do the installation, glad to hear it went smoothly! -Matt Homes
seeing how clean this is underneath it makes me realize how much i hate Canadian winters
We understand your pain. We are located in the upper midwest and see our fair share of snow each year. I don't know how Canada manages their winter storms but Minnesota use lots of salt which wreaks havoc on our cars. It's the never ending battle.
@@GrimmSpeed it's pretty damn near the same here!
Thanks used this video to see where my turbo bracket went and what it looks like 😂
Hey, Glad you could reference the video for something!
Yes, all of our current up-pipes come with the upper and lower gaskets. Additionally I would look at replacing any gaskets at any connection you disconnect during the installation. For example the turbo to down pipe, down pipe to cat back, as well as the exhaust manifold to head gaskets. -Matt Homes
Very amazing and informative video, thanks Grimm speed!! Planning on installing my uppipe soon, just waiting on some new gaskets and hardware.
Glad to help! Enjoy it!
Great tutorial video, excellent filming!
Awesome video! Thanks for including the torque specs needed
Yup, you can easily run your stock header with a GS EWG up-pipe, no worries there! You don't even need to run the EWG yet, you can get one of our block off kits so you can add an external waste gate later on, pretty modular system! -Matt Homes
@HoldeyMoeBeel
Haha good question! It was actually on our race car and we had already removed so much to do the install, didn't think it would throw anybody off!
Will
Correct, I would get the manifold to head gaskets (pair) and the turbo to down pipe gasket. If you leave the header assembled you won't need the cross pipe gaskets, but it never hurts to get fresh ones in there. Remember pre turbo exhaust leaks can easily rob you of 10-30hp all day long. -Matt Homes
If you are removing the stock down pipe and heat shield system its much easier to just remove the down pipe. You can technically un-bolt the bell mouth of the down pipe and push it backwards several inches, but its much easier to just remove it. Keep in mind that the bell mouth of the down pipe is above two nuts you need to reach to remove the up pipe. ~Matt
There are 2 nuts holding the motor mounts to the x-member. Make sure you remove both nuts. This will allow you to gain the inch or two of clearance you will need to sneak the stock up-pipe out. In regards to the O2 sensor. If you are having difficulty removing the sensor and its still on the car you might want to unhook the sensor from the harness and leave the sensor in. You can remove it once the collector is off the car. Try some heat on the manifold, might help the sensor come out.
You want to remove the OEM cat for several reasons. First off, the OEM cat is a major restriction and can kill spool up times, making your turbo lag, less power. Also, the OEM up-pipe from 2002-2005 has an EGT probe in it. As this probe ages it can be prone to failure and if it breaks off it will more than likely go through your turbo making a mess! You should get tuned for this upgrade, you run the risk of over boosting if you don't.
-Matt Homes
Yes. Since there is less of a restriction in the up-pipe now you run the chance of over-boosting and running lean. You and your vehicle will benefit the most by having your tuner tune your vehicle for this specific modification. -Matt Homes
Great video, I installed mine today myself in 1 hr 45 mins! Great mod! Easy easy easy
I may be mistaken but i did not see a provision for an EWG on that up pipe, yet you have the IWG disabled, Super subie running un regulated boost?
3 but the purpose of the wg, infernal or external ks to do very the exhaust gasses around the tu r bine. how does it do that if not plumbed in before the turbo
We certainly recommend using stock heatshields. They keep heat in and protect manifolds from rusting and road debris.
Taras
one thing to add when using any AM uppipe is that it will increase lagg and top end(minor) the other thing to make sure is that the pipe inlet is the same as your headers outlet as if there is a difference in size it will chew up gaskets and you will eventually need to match to two pipes(e.g buy new headers or go back to old uppipe)
otherwise a choice video
Thanks for the awesome video and brilliant product. This is bound to be better than my cracked Perrin uppipe.
You should be able to leave the upper (closest to block) on. In regards to the O2 sensor, its easiest to buy the specific tool to remove the O2 sensor and then once the sensor is removed, then you can remove the lower heat shield. The best way to gain easy access to the O2 sensor and the manifold to up-pipe bolts it to remove the passenger side wheel and go through the access panel in that area. Let us know if there is anything else we can help with. ~Matt
As long as you still have the cats in your downpipe it is not as critical to get a tune immediately. Once you get an aftermarket downpipe I would highly suggest getting a tune for both the Up Pipe and downpipe at that time. Hope that helped ya. - Justin Grimm
Balancing velocity/spool time/ and over all volumetric efficiency is exactly that, balancing. Yes, by increasing the internal volume of the up-pipe with an aftermarket up pipe, velocity will decrease slightly. However, the stock unit is prone to failure over its life span, especially the "flex" section on the OEM unit. The flex in the stock unit is more of a slip joint that a true flex, and we have seen plenty of them leak, if not fail completely over time.
-Matt Homes
@proMediic I would not worry about it. It will either dry by the time you put everything back together or when you start the car it will evaporate.
@bloodstriper None what so ever, that is our precaution to make sure that use this pipe under your own discretion choice. Most of our customers do use this on the street.
Now I mean.. What's the actual power gains? Or torque? I got an 03 WRX and am thinking on this. I was also told though catless up pipe no tune, catless downpipe yes tune. Who's right their?
@sergsrt8 Great question! The downpipe is actually different, it connects the exit of the turbo to the res of your exhaust. The up pipe connects the exhaust manifold to the entrance (exhaust side) of the turbo.
Will
I see that Texas Star
Thanks a bunch, this was a very helpful video. Glad I stumbled upon it!
No you definitely won't have to drain oil or coolant. It will be much easier to work around if you take the TMIC off, that s real quick to pull out and reinstall. The write up you read is a person most likely removing the turbo at the same time, that isn't necessary. Let us know if you have any questions. -Matt Homes
wait, the waste gate actuator has been deleted, and the flapper permanently closed, and there's no wastegate on the up pipe, so is it just running full Boost?
this is for TMIC with the BOV on the IC.
waste gate and bov are 2 different animals.
It really depends on the year vehicle. Higher gains will be seen on pre 2005 vehicles that have the OEM catalytic converter in the up-pipe. On the newer vehicles that have a catless up-pipe, slightly smaller gains will be felt but this quality piece is a good insurance policy, OEM pipes are prone to failure over time. If I can get some more details on your modifications and engine size I can give you a more detailed response.
-Matt Homes
@grimeyspecv
Yes you can. It is actually the easiest way to do it. You will want to remove the heatshield from the 4-port exhaust manifold to get to the up-pipe to manifolds bolts. The rest will be easy to do with the turbo out of the car.
Taras
You definitely aren't going to lose power with this modification! It just isn't as noticeable of a bump like the 2.0L catted up-pipes see when swapping those out. It is also a great insurance policy moving forward, and on the high end our high flow up-pipe will feed the turbo longer than the OEM catless one will. Let me know if there are any more questions or concerns you have.
-Matt Homes
So basically, if you remove it, you wanna add new gaskets?
Always use new gaskets or you’re gonna have a leak. Would you re use a condom lol
Matt,
You can install this pipe just fine without installing a new turbo. I bet they were talking about using a new gasket, that would make more sense. Let me know if you have any other questions. -Matt Homes
Awesome thanks Matt, I will be giving ya'll a call! Thanks !
@themisiek2 Yes the installation is the exact same, you will need to remove your downpipe for additional room to set up the waste gate and dumptube, but the whole process is very easy!
Any body notice they put a non gated up pipe on, but had the IWG delete bracket on the turbo?
yes, and its driving me nuts
Same
Ebcs probably?
But wait, that doesn't make sense
Thank you, you guys are awesome!!!
Beware, GrimmSpeed up-pipe only comes with 1 up-pipe to turbo gasket and 1- header to up-pipe gasket. You will NEED to buy a new d/p gasket seperate. I don't know why they did not include this since the d/p will obviously need to be remove.
iNNoCeNttDReAMs the down pipe doesn't need to come off
ha noobs
Lmao dont spread false information. The downpipe DOES need to come off to access one of the hidden up pipe bolts otherwise good luck trying to remove the up pipe.
@bloodstriper it comes with new bolts to connect to the exhaust manifold and new studs to connect to the turbo but gaskets are extra. We do offer them though and they are cheaper than OEM and are 22% thicker as well!
Great video man but my down pipe the nuts and bolts have been rounded 😩im very stuck trying to find a solution may need to cut them out with a grinder, cant get the grinder on the back of the flange at the bottom of the up pipe though
Rounded nuts can be a frustrating problem. Sometimes hitting them with some pbblaster and a torch helps. Otherwise you have to cut them off and get new studs. You may just have to drill out the stud. You'll go through some bits but it may be the only option.
Pull up pipe from top, out through the the space the down pipe was way easier (03-07 foresters xt)
If this works for me tomorrow just know I love you
Nothing should really get damaged. You might negatively affect spool because of heat loss from the header.
Taras
I did Invidia everything , no cats
Steve,
If you vehicle had a cat in it already then it will be slightly louder but it will not change the Boxer Rumble". Let us know if there is anything else I can help you with. -Matt Homes
Technically you don't need a tune, but you are removing the cat, and changing the flow characteristics of flow and spool. TO ensure the health of your vehicle you should be tuned for modifications like this ti obtain the most out of the modification. -Matt Homes
@UnknownProductions0 You should always replace these gaskets when doing this install to insure a proper seal, nothing worse than having to go back through it!
Will
Thanks for the video, I just installed one and found the engine mount bolt (to raise the engine) not reachable with a larger than stock sway bar, I didn't want to undo the subframe to get to it so I lossened the turbo and pushed the old uppipe up and it clear it. I also had the downpipe out so it flew right out!
@grimeyspecv You actually can if the turbo is coming out as well! -Will
@UnknownProductions0 Yeah you could do that for sure. You are more than likely going to need to loose everything(both sides) up though then tighten down. - Justin Grimm
This was a pain in the ass... I used atleast 5 hours getting rid of the damn heathshields..
nice material but so close to valve cover on my 06 wrx. should have made it like oem where theres space to use a heat shield. i read lot of posts of where users had valve cover leaks shortly after using this up pipe. the close contact heat exposure eats away the moon seals at the rear side. This is common with using aftermaket exhaust parts. but grimmspeed up pipe is quite close to the v. cover and can do better.
The manifold or turbo must be removed in order to install an up pipe. We recommend replacing the associated gaskets.
Mike
About to install in a couple of days , question - does the 02 sensor have to be removed or can the wire/clip be fished out through the heat shield hole ?
15,000th view haha im really inebriated. it took me eight hours to do a header/upipe job on my 02 bugeye.
This video helped me a lot. Watched it probably 5 times throughout installing my uppipe.
I do however wonder why they have an IWG wastegate bracket on the turbo, when the factory uppipe is still in place. Product placement much?
Hey will, I have a Hks TurboBack exhaust system. I purchased it about 5 years ago off a 2006 STI. I have a 2006 Wrx Tr. The guy worked at Velocity Trends and was making his STI stock again to sale so i got a good deal. They installed the exhaust system for me but did not install the up pipe. Honestly at the time i was new to the game and didn't even know it was an up pipe he was giving me with the system. I did not get the bolts to it or Gaskets. It looks identical to the grim speed one
I noticed that on your website it says gaskets are included, does that include exhaust manifold gaskets? I also recently noticed that my turbo to downpipe stud vanished. Does anybody know what the replacement part number is?
The Up Pipe Kit will include Up Pipe to Turbo and Exhaust Manifold to Up Pipe Gaskets, you'll have to purchase the Exhaust Manifold pair separately. Hmm, unfortunately that's not one I know.
I'm struggling with removing the exhaust manifold from the headers because of sheared bolts on the heat shield. Is it possible to just remove the portion that is connected to the up pipe? Or is that not recommended?
As long as it's a EJ series motor it will work just fine. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with. ~Matt H.
Well wish me luck I'm about to go do this on my 9-2x. I sure hope it only takes the 2-3 hours it says hear vs the 5-8 I'm seeing elsewhere
Literally about to do my 9-2x how was it on yours?
@@DJKBEATS it's not too bad you might as well jack the engine up on that side tho made it alot easier. Second set of hands is helpful too. Definitely get the grimmspeed thicc gasket for the header to up pipe that was a 🐻 to seal up properly. Very good results tho once I had everything installed right. Good remedy for some of that turbo lag
@@DJKBEATS oh and 2.2k ohm resistor to trick your car into thinking It still has that sensor in the up pipe
I've got a bung on mine for the o2 and I got the XPT stage 2 tune to flash which should deal with any CEL's but I'll definitely lift the engine for the up pipe. I just bought a cheap DP, headers, up pipe and cat back set up for now that comes with gaskets so if they dont seal properly I'll get the grimmspeed thick ones. If for some reason it throws the CEL, where did you plug in the resistor? Or did you remove the clamp and solder it where the clamp used to be?
Oh yeah, and should I remove the motor mount to jack the engine or just lift it a little?
Bjarne,
The OEM up-pipe you replaced had a cat in it. Since you have removed this form the system you could encounter some over boosting. If you haven't done so already, pick up a 3-port BCS and get your vehicle tuned, you won't be disappointed. If you have any further questions, feel free to give us a ring 612-379-0000. -Matt Homes
Going to be doing this install tomorrow night. Rather than pull the exhaust manifold off at all, why cant the up pipe be fished out from the top once all the bolts are removed, and slid back down on to the manifold? I understand based on the previous post you wanted to replace the manifold gaskets but it looks like it can be easily done, especially with the down pipe removed.
Nice video! I buy this uppipe for my 2011 wrx :)
Great video thank you , if I'm removing the turbo with uppipe will I still need the manifold gasket or is that just if you leave turbo on .
hey guy...! very nice video ...
Ok I just finished my whole install and I had an EGT in my up pipe, it is currently throwing a code. Will the 2.2 kohm resister just clear the code? or now that I've got one am I going to have a problem?
Thanks
where does the resistor go
where the EGT connector goes in
@@tubejorrit Did the resistor clear the CEL?
@@phillipgalindo234 yes!
Theres no way to remove the upper bolt from the manifold to the up pipe with the upper heat shield in place correct? Also you did have to remove the o2 sensor to get off the upper heat shield off right? Im doing my up pipe now, and have the upper shield still above the manifold and cannot get to the upper up pipe to manifold bolt out. So Im guessing the car you did the video with doesnt have the upper shields in place anymore?
What kind of horsepower gains would I be seeing from this upgrade?
Thanks, I was able to finally drop down the the passenger manifold, but my bigger problem is the 02 sensor is really stuck in there. I have the 02 removal tool, sprayed the sensor threads with PB and still wont budge! Also, I cant seem to see a way to pull the up pipe down without jacking the engine. Is the nut for the motor mount the one near the passenger wheel area, or the one in the back behind the sway bar? Thanks for all the help!
Most instructions I have seen say you need to jack up the motor (forester, wrx). Is that just to make it easier, or won't an up-pipe go in unless the motor is lifted?
Thanks for the video, by the way!
Do you have to mess with the cross
Pipe ?
I got a question, if you want to replace just the gasket that connects from the up pipe (lower section) to the exhaust manifold do I need to take apart everything and replace gaskets for the head and what not? I noticed there's a small leak in there and its loosing boost + makes an awful noise when I let off the throttle, also what gasket would you recommend I have a 3" up pipe. Thanks for the vid btw! Can't wait to get one and put on an EWG :D
I ordered one of these on ebay and its very nice, came with two fresh gaskets both multi layer steel! but no studs! my old ones are rusted in place so now my whole reassembly is on hold :(
I see you made this comment 2 years ago but I just want to reply, I ordered original studs from subaru but the tread was different on the new uppipe, it had 1.5 where subaru uses 1.25. So I had to order new studs again! I couldn't drive my car for 2 weeks because of this.
Will there be any problems regarding the sensors? Maybe any errors in the system or check engine light?
Would I need to take the manifold off if I'm taking turbo off too, or can I just undo the bottom uppipe bolts and turbo and pull out other side
awesome thanks for the help
The ID of the gasket is about 2.1"
Mike
Be patient, we will have a solution for you very soon, stay tuned! -Matt H.
Why do you want to get rid of the cat? I'm getting an 02 wrx wagon and it's all stock exhaust. Do I need to get the uppipe first? Does it have to be tuned afterwords? I'm new to this but really want to learn. Sorry if it's a stupid question.
without the heat shield on it. Where could i get all the bolts and gaskets before attempting this job? I am in need of installing this on my car soon and was wanting to try and tackle this job with a friend but i want to make sure i do it right. I can send pictures of what i have if need be. My down pipe is a 4 inch down pipe also if that info helps. It does not look too difficult of a job to do but nothing ever is as easy as it looks i am sure! Thanks in advance! Also any pointers for a newb?
is this a 2 bolt up pipe or 3 bolt up pipe and will this up pipe work with the killer be 2 bolt holy header or i’d have to get the 3 bolt
Thanks for this video. How can I find out of my 2006 JDM Forester (ej205) has a catted or catless uppipe?
I have a 14 sti pro-tune e85, fmic, 1300 inj and perrin intake already done. Will this uppipe require a retune?
Hi i have an 05 legacy gt turbo. I was thinking about doing up pipe, down pipe, res delete, and 850 injectors. with protune what kind of power gains can i expect? Any other recommendations for mods (specifically with oil system)? Thanks
probably 0hp
Can you list all the gaskets needed to replace during this install. I know the up pipe comes with the appropriate gaskets from the up-pipe to turbo, and up-pipe to manifold. But you replaced the downpipe gasket, and 2 manifold gaskets??
Two questions, Why does the Downpipe have to be removed? And are you removing both sides of the exhaust manifold or just passenger side? Need to know which Gaskets to buy in advance.
Justin,
To answer your first question, you need to remove the down pipe because it sits directly above the two rear studs on the up-pipe. Secondly, you can remove just the passenger side of the header if you like, or the entire header, we recommend the 2nd. If you remove the entire header and leave it assembled to the cross pipe then you only need to replace the header to head gaskets, which are sold in pairs. If you remove half of the manifold, the you need those same gaskets and a set of cross pipe gaskets. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Matt Homes
Operations
So I found a very nicely done write up but it was saying I would have to remove intercooler, turbo, drain the oil and coolant.
I am just curious if this is true
HI notice you didn't put the top shield of the exhaust manifold back on.. is this okay ?
Awesome Vid!!! I've watched it prob 10x now. Anyone know what size/thread those nuts are to snug down the studs? I'm getting the EWG Uppipe on Tues. just don't want to have to guess or make 5 trips to the Home depot.
Would you recommend deleting the O2 sensor from the up pipe
My car has the egt on the up pipe. But the up pipe I got doesn't have a spot for it. I need help. What is the 2.2 kohm resistor.
Will a larger diameter uppipe cause more turbo lag but increase high end power? And how likely will the oem Egt probe being sucked into the turbo running on stage 2?