Well done. It looks like the tip of your soldering iron was a bit crusted with old flux. Use a piece of coarse steelwool to "scratch" any crustiness off the iron's tip, and the heat transfer to the item being soldered will be better. Thanks for the video!
Good repair. Ceramic capacitors are usually not polarized so can be fitted either way around. Though it is good practice to pay attention to polarity as other types of capacitors such as Tantalum beads ARE polarized.
Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good. However, a typical curserary look over electronic circuit boards is the first thing anyone should do if they are trying to repair any electronics. So in that respect, you did good... Thumbs Up!
And another one saved from the local tip. With those screws to hold the board inplace and the ones that have a metal tab that earths the power board to the chassie.This is one of the main earth connections between the board and chassie. Make certain that thay are tight, not over tight , but tight. !! Panasonic and a few other brands do suffer from poor contact from the board to the metal chassie when those screws are not fully tight.
Ive got two of these. One i got on a black fridy sale in 2010, still works flawlessly. And i picked another exact one up at a thrift store earlier today. That also works flawlessly.
I've only ever seen one ceramic capacitor blow like that. It actually blew one of it's leads off the board and left a little char mark just like this one did. No earthly idea what caused it, it's almost always the electrolytic round ones or the polymer square ones I see go out.
That soldering irion is pretty conspicuously not hot enough or the tip is bad or it really needs cleaning. On a single-side PCB with pads like those for the little ceramic cap it should take no more than 5 seconds per pad to do the job. Built up oxide on a tip can prevent good heat transfer, but I don't think that's the problem, judging by the reaction of the flux. There may be poor thermal contact between the barrel of the iron and the tip. That can require careful cleaning of the back end of the tip and the mating surfaces of the barrel. If the back end of the tip itself is tubular and fits over then end of the rod shaped heating element, heat transfer from the element to tip can be impaired by crud. With some adjustable temperature irons you can get a situation where the temperature sensor, which is in the rod with the heater, "knows" about the temperature of the rod but not the tip because of poor heat transfer from rod to tip. Most tips like that these days have iron plating over top of a copper core. The iron hugely increases tip life, however if the plating develops a pinhole, which does happen over time, the copper will slowly dissolve in hot solder and leave a void with nothing but the thin iron shell to conduct heat. It's very hard to tell when this has happened other than by the fact that it just doesn't seem to work right. If you are using decent flux-cored solder there is no need for any additional flux. Occasionally it is helpful but rarely necessary. The capacitor and the adjacent resistor and diode form a "snubber" network for the integrated switcher IC mounted on the heatsink. It isn't very common for that type of capacitor to fail.
Wow! Some great information, thank you. I will check that tip internally. Thank you for watching and for taking the time to teach me a thing or two...much appreciated!
Hey I have a Vizio M43-C1. Im getting a popping noise from my left speaker. Intermittent. Only when audio is on. Every input. Doesn’t happen on external speakers i have plugged in. I swapped the internal speakers for new ones, still popping. Picture is fine no issues. On that side is the main board (green). What could be causing this? Thinking of swapping the main board. the sound is definitely lower and on the left side. Coming out of speaker. Any ideas? I dont think its a capacitor because my tv still works?
Wouldn't surprise me if all these parts are made in the same factory..... Just like furnaces, all the parts come from one place and everybody puts their brand stamp on it....
7:19 Dude you're using SHIT SODDA.... the unleaded stuff is so fricking hard to SOLDER (yes it has an "L") get some decent SOLDER and you'll look like a freaking soddaring expert!
Well done. It looks like the tip of your soldering iron was a bit crusted with old flux. Use a piece of coarse steelwool to "scratch" any crustiness off the iron's tip, and the heat transfer to the item being soldered will be better. Thanks for the video!
You're right, I have 20 new tips in a drawer, you'd think I would have replaced it first! Thanks for watching, very much appreciated 😊
This was exactly what I needed to know. Mine just popped and died. No way I can fix it. Thank you so much for this information.
You're so welcome, thanks for checking out the channel and Happy New Year!!
Good repair. Ceramic capacitors are usually not polarized so can be fitted either way around. Though it is good practice to pay attention to polarity as other types of capacitors such as Tantalum beads ARE polarized.
Good to know, I appreciate the feedback. I love saying "Tantalum" now!
Cracking video. Press the button and run away got me laughing. Good work.
😂 I didn't trust my own handywork! Thank you for watching, very much appreciated!
Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good. However, a typical curserary look over electronic circuit boards is the first thing anyone should do if they are trying to repair any electronics. So in that respect, you did good... Thumbs Up!
Thank you!
And another one saved from the local tip. With those screws to hold the board inplace and the ones that have a metal tab that earths the power board to the chassie.This is one of the main earth connections between the board and chassie. Make certain that thay are tight, not over tight , but tight. !! Panasonic and a few other brands do suffer from poor contact from the board to the metal chassie when those screws are not fully tight.
Excellent tip, thank you for the feedback!
Well done on the repair , oh and its soldering not soddering
Ive got two of these. One i got on a black fridy sale in 2010, still works flawlessly. And i picked another exact one up at a thrift store earlier today. That also works flawlessly.
Cool, nice picture. Glad they're working for you....
Great job! Looks great
Thanks pal!
Other than your soldering great video. Clean that poor tip a bit and itll do its job better for you!
Thank you for the tip and thank you for watching I appreciate the support...
I've only ever seen one ceramic capacitor blow like that. It actually blew one of it's leads off the board and left a little char mark just like this one did. No earthly idea what caused it, it's almost always the electrolytic round ones or the polymer square ones I see go out.
The char mark was the clue, then the soot on the side of the capacitor. Thanks kindly for the feedback and tuning in!
That soldering irion is pretty conspicuously not hot enough or the tip is bad or it really needs cleaning. On a single-side PCB with pads like those for the little ceramic cap it should take no more than 5 seconds per pad to do the job.
Built up oxide on a tip can prevent good heat transfer, but I don't think that's the problem, judging by the reaction of the flux. There may be poor thermal contact between the barrel of the iron and the tip. That can require careful cleaning of the back end of the tip and the mating surfaces of the barrel. If the back end of the tip itself is tubular and fits over then end of the rod shaped heating element, heat transfer from the element to tip can be impaired by crud. With some adjustable temperature irons you can get a situation where the temperature sensor, which is in the rod with the heater, "knows" about the temperature of the rod but not the tip because of poor heat transfer from rod to tip.
Most tips like that these days have iron plating over top of a copper core. The iron hugely increases tip life, however if the plating develops a pinhole, which does happen over time, the copper will slowly dissolve in hot solder and leave a void with nothing but the thin iron shell to conduct heat. It's very hard to tell when this has happened other than by the fact that it just doesn't seem to work right.
If you are using decent flux-cored solder there is no need for any additional flux. Occasionally it is helpful but rarely necessary.
The capacitor and the adjacent resistor and diode form a "snubber" network for the integrated switcher IC mounted on the heatsink. It isn't very common for that type of capacitor to fail.
Wow! Some great information, thank you. I will check that tip internally. Thank you for watching and for taking the time to teach me a thing or two...much appreciated!
Congratulations dude I know how it feels to succeed woohoo!
Thank you sir!!
Hey I have a Vizio M43-C1. Im getting a popping noise from my left speaker. Intermittent. Only when audio is on. Every input. Doesn’t happen on external speakers i have plugged in. I swapped the internal speakers for new ones, still popping. Picture is fine no issues. On that side is the main board (green). What could be causing this? Thinking of swapping the main board. the sound is definitely lower and on the left side. Coming out of speaker. Any ideas? I dont think its a capacitor because my tv still works?
Sounds like the audio driver board. Maybe some of the previous viewers can comment and give you some ideas. Check all seating of wiring connectors.
@@fixeverything4u I don’t see an audio driver board for it. Would that be on the main board?
@@AXXXXA yes, not the power board. All the inputs are located on the board. I call it a driver board because sound and signal eminate from that board.
@@fixeverything4u ok cool thanks! Im gonna swap the main board & see if it fixes it. Thanks for responding !
I almost just swapped the power supply board rather than repair it. Sometimes that's much easier if you're puzzled...
only 2 Circuit boards?!!? Hmm... looks like X and Y sustain are on one board...
There’s a third board with the screen processor and driver arrays, which is a part of the lcd assembly. It does the heavy lifting for the display.
hmmm what controversy!! Vizio TV with LG display panel sticker
Vexing! Just noticed that....
@@fixeverything4u 😀 it is funny, as _VIZIO_ and _LG_ are stamped on the pcb that you repaired!
Wouldn't surprise me if all these parts are made in the same factory..... Just like furnaces, all the parts come from one place and everybody puts their brand stamp on it....
7:19 Dude you're using SHIT SODDA.... the unleaded stuff is so fricking hard to SOLDER (yes it has an "L") get some decent SOLDER and you'll look like a freaking soddaring expert!
Thank you for the feedback, I'm learning more every day....
Can you recommend a decent solder where I wouldn't have to use flux?