Your tutorial is great! I am embarking a on new journey on how you use hall effect sensors and Audino to build my own flight controls. This explained a lot to me. Thank you!
Hi! I wish people would offer broken or obsolete items for sale instead of throwing them away. I made a new program for modified joystick and it's more effective damping jitter than older one. If you want a copy of it I will gladly email it to you. My email address is hekka.diy.videos@gmail.com.
get a teensy it has a flight controller, joystick, mouse and keyboard USB profiles makes building these things easy, also 40 odd pins for the button stuff
Awesome project! Better project I've seen so far using an old joystick. No need of F***ing 3D printer parts. I have one with broken rudder and I was thinking in fix it with hall sensor but your project its far more interesting. Maybe I'll do something similar. Thx for sharing.
Thank you very much. My goal is to use cheap parts, materials and simple tools and build something which works (hopefully) better than original version.
Thanks. Magnets are attracting each other so north and south sides are facing (and hall sensor between south and north). X- and Y-axes have 3mm and 1mm thick magnets each side and same thing here; they are attracting each other and there is no glue between 3mm and 1mm thick magnets. Glue the magnet and magnet holder together first then magnet holders (with magnets) onto joystick. It's a good idea to have nuts or washers between magnets when the glue (between magnet holder and joystick) is curing. That way magnet faces are parallel and the distance between magnets stays right. I hope that info helps you. Happy DIY projects!
@hekka7270 thank you for you detailed explanation. I'm working on my own design, including a variation of the Olukelos 3D printed gimbal and a Logitech extreme 3D. Your video gave me more lights on how to work with the hall sensors. Thank you!
i watched wish you built it live include details about the board you used, what code you used, what github repos you used etc please in the video description, I think many people own 3D printers I think personally i would either reuse original body or 3D print a new enclosure using ABS or PETG
Hi! Did you check my pedal mod video? Maybe it has some useful information for you? (I'm going to write an update text in it's description anytime soon.) I have now a new program for the joystick and it's more effective damping jitter down. I will gladly email it to you if you want a copy of it (my email adress is hekka.diy.videos@gmail.com).
They factory built-in spring has way too much tension (too stiff). I replace the spring with the spring inside a used shampoo container, pull the spring longer and expand the radius gradually with the assistance like stick/rod, now the control feeling is much softer make much more sense. Ther are some more tricks other people used, like: Cut off one circle on top of factory built-in spring to make it shorter thus become less pressure, or use heating/cool-down method to soften the tension, or remove the spring and use rubber band in 4 direction of the base tie to the center stick to make it center. But bro, non of these are comparable to your modification - Completely rebuild a half of joystick, pretty cool!
Thanks man! I like very much your "shampoo idea". Junk for somebody else but useful stuff for a creative person:) BTW: I think Logitech attack 3 joystick has same "gimbal" (that white nylon(?) device) as Extreme 3D Pro and the spring has same dimensions but the wire is thinner. I'm not sure but I try to test it in the near future.
Thanks! Now I have hall sensor and Arduino controlling joystick's Z-axis (along with pedals) so I can use joystick's twisting axis the way you are suggesting or maybe controlling landing gear :) (I made a short video about Z-axis using hall sensor)
Is your joystick modified or unmodified joystick? Do did you check switches using multimeter? Some of mine joystick's switches didn't work so I cleaned them using contact cleaning spray and now they work flawlessly.
The collective add on is genius! But, I notice the throttle is the wrong way round so you can't use the stick. Why not.... put it the other way round and use programming to reverse the throttle output so that 0=100 and 100=0? You can do this in Mobiflight I believe, if not Arduino sketch. In Arduino it would be a simple code to make it something like " THROTTLE_SET = (100-input);" And you could have a switch on the box which tells the Arduino to add this line of code when using helicopters
Thanks for the comment. You can't see it on my video, but I am using an extra joystick as a cyclic. So my left hand is operating collective and more throttle means collective is moving upwards (like in my video). If needed you can swap the direction in every(?) game or simulator very simple way anyway. If that doesn't work you can use windows joystick calibration tool. If push buttons are needed you can use existing ones and some Arduino code. For example press two push buttons down and keep them down a few seconds and direction is swapped. No extra buttons are needed. I used this method in my shifter video (how to use Logitech shifter as a sequential shifter). BTW: I find Logitech original spring being too strong for helicopter flying.
@@hekka7270 Ah I see. Thanks. I guess that's a good idea for immersion since another stick would be placed further away from the collective as in RL. Thanks for sharing. I'm building a throttle quadrant at the moment to cater for all types of plane, while putting 2 separate trim wheels on for occasional helicopter use.
Hi ! Nice to know at least someone is watching:) I didn't even try Z-axis because the space is so small. However there is such a thing as magnetoresistive sensor. It probably won't need a lot of space because it works different way as Hall-sensor. I have one of those (MR-sensor) but I haven't tested it yet but i will do that in the near future.
Hi! (This is "slightly" late second replay) I tested my MR-sensor but it didn't work because it was digital (not analog) and too sensitive. But I found a way how to use hall sensor anyhow. I made a new video about it and it is on my channel.
Thank You! Costs depends on how much stuff you have already. I only had to buy Arduino (5 euros) push buttons (10 pieces 6 euros) magnets (20 pieces 4 euros) Hall-sensors (10 pieces 2 euros) and polycarbonate sheets (10...15 euros). You can find used Thrustmaster T.16000m costing only 30 euros so you can't save a lot of money if any. However Logitech 3D Pro is more rugged as Thrustmaster (I have disassembled both). If you are planning to use joystick many years modifying Logitech could be good choice in the long run. For me planning and building and learning is a fun process and sometimes very frustrating :)
Sorry, but it won't work. I tried to use Logitech electronics (and no Arduino), but the potentiometers power voltage (almost 5V) dropped to 0.5V when using hall sensor (replacing that potentiometer). I even tried to "rob" the voltage directly from USB line, but then the voltage dropped to 1V. Same thing happened when I was testing Logitech Attack 3 joystick. I guess Logitech electronics just don't like hall sensors:(
Nice tutorial on Joystick! Wondering if any custom PCBs and 3D printed part may help? Would love to sponsor and reach any potenail collab together! (PCBWay zoey)
Hi Zoey! Arduino pro micro costs only 5 euros or less (including shipping) so it's probably very difficult to save any money using custom PCBs ? Parts are so simple that you don't need 3D printing, but maybe it's worthwhile to use 3D printer for some hall sensor holders (X and Z axis). I only needed saw, drill, file, soldering iron and some simple tools (and a few beers) :)
@@hekka7270 Thank you for sharing pal. Got your point, and from the other perspective, we might help if a one-piece finished product you'd like to achieve. Btw, our sponsorship is open to any of your other projects as well! 🍻
Can 8 Bit Do just make and sell me a joystick....I want to....no need to play star citizen and this QC issue world is holding me up while you tube has no problem making the good stuff logitech can't even make the same old joystick not suck on the z rotation.😢
I'm so glad someone actually posted a video about X and Y axis instead of just Z axis using hall effect sensors! Thank you so much!
Wait, did you find video about Z axis using hall effect sensors? Maybe I shouldn't search for 3d printed one if I want a reference for 3D printing.
Your tutorial is great! I am embarking a on new journey on how you use hall effect sensors and Audino to build my own flight controls. This explained a lot to me. Thank you!
Thank you for your comment and happy DIY projects!
Your project and video are very good. Even the inclusion of page numbers in your program shows that you are very thoughtful. Well done!
Thanks!
I just bought 3 old obsolete flight sticks on Ebay. I plan on doing something like this to give them new life. Thanks for the tutorial :)
Hi! I wish people would offer broken or obsolete items for sale instead of throwing them away.
I made a new program for modified joystick and it's more effective damping jitter than older one. If you want a copy of it I will gladly email it to you. My email address is hekka.diy.videos@gmail.com.
get a teensy it has a flight controller, joystick, mouse and keyboard USB profiles makes building these things easy, also 40 odd pins for the button stuff
Awesome project! Better project I've seen so far using an old joystick. No need of F***ing 3D printer parts. I have one with broken rudder and I was thinking in fix it with hall sensor but your project its far more interesting. Maybe I'll do something similar. Thx for sharing.
i like this amazing creativity of not having a 3d printer, project is awesome
Thank you very much. My goal is to use cheap parts, materials and simple tools and build something which works (hopefully) better than original version.
Great work. What is the polarity of the magnets, should both negative face repelling of should atrach between both with the sensor in the middle?
Thanks. Magnets are attracting each other so north and south sides are facing (and hall sensor between south and north). X- and Y-axes have 3mm and 1mm thick magnets each side and same thing here; they are attracting each other and there is no glue between 3mm and 1mm thick magnets.
Glue the magnet and magnet holder together first then magnet holders (with magnets) onto joystick. It's a good idea to have nuts or washers between magnets when the glue (between magnet holder and joystick) is curing. That way magnet faces are parallel and the distance between magnets stays right. I hope that info helps you. Happy DIY projects!
@hekka7270 thank you for you detailed explanation. I'm working on my own design, including a variation of the Olukelos 3D printed gimbal and a Logitech extreme 3D. Your video gave me more lights on how to work with the hall sensors. Thank you!
That's quite the upgrade. Solid system you got there.
Beautiful project, very detailed video congratulations, I would like to find more videos like this!
Thanks! Do you know Akaki Kuumeri's RUclips channel or Tom Stanton's channel? They have some cool and informative joystick videos.
i watched wish you built it live include details about the board you used, what code you used, what github repos you used etc please in the video description, I think many people own 3D printers I think personally i would either reuse original body or 3D print a new enclosure using ABS or PETG
Great video, I want to make rudder pedals and your help is truly valuable. Thanks!
Hi! Did you check my pedal mod video? Maybe it has some useful information for you? (I'm going to write an update text in it's description anytime soon.)
I have now a new program for the joystick and it's more effective damping jitter down. I will gladly email it to you if you want a copy of it (my email adress is hekka.diy.videos@gmail.com).
Now this I'm going to try. Thanks.
They factory built-in spring has way too much tension (too stiff). I replace the spring with the spring inside a used shampoo container, pull the spring longer and expand the radius gradually with the assistance like stick/rod, now the control feeling is much softer make much more sense.
Ther are some more tricks other people used, like: Cut off one circle on top of factory built-in spring to make it shorter thus become less pressure, or use heating/cool-down method to soften the tension, or remove the spring and use rubber band in 4 direction of the base tie to the center stick to make it center.
But bro, non of these are comparable to your modification - Completely rebuild a half of joystick, pretty cool!
Thanks man! I like very much your "shampoo idea". Junk for somebody else but useful stuff for a creative person:)
BTW: I think Logitech attack 3 joystick has same "gimbal" (that white nylon(?) device) as Extreme 3D Pro and the spring has same dimensions but the wire is thinner. I'm not sure but I try to test it in the near future.
great job ...beautifull work big up
Good shot, Red Two! 😎
Cool project!
The (twist) Z-axis could perhaps have been repurposed as a 2nd throttle or flap axis. ;)
Thanks!
Now I have hall sensor and Arduino controlling joystick's Z-axis (along with pedals) so I can use joystick's twisting axis the way you are suggesting or maybe controlling landing gear :)
(I made a short video about Z-axis using hall sensor)
I can't get the top part working, the hat switch and the trigger its so frustration. even used a diode
Is your joystick modified or unmodified joystick? Do did you check switches using multimeter?
Some of mine joystick's switches didn't work so I cleaned them using contact cleaning spray and now they work flawlessly.
The collective add on is genius! But, I notice the throttle is the wrong way round so you can't use the stick. Why not.... put it the other way round and use programming to reverse the throttle output so that 0=100 and 100=0? You can do this in Mobiflight I believe, if not Arduino sketch. In Arduino it would be a simple code to make it something like " THROTTLE_SET = (100-input);"
And you could have a switch on the box which tells the Arduino to add this line of code when using helicopters
Thanks for the comment. You can't see it on my video, but I am using an extra joystick as a cyclic. So my left hand is operating collective and more throttle means collective is moving upwards (like in my video). If needed you can swap the direction in every(?) game or simulator very simple way anyway. If that doesn't work you can use windows joystick calibration tool.
If push buttons are needed you can use existing ones and some Arduino code. For example press two push buttons down and keep them down a few seconds and direction is swapped. No extra buttons are needed. I used this method in my shifter video (how to use Logitech shifter as a sequential shifter). BTW: I find Logitech original spring being too strong for helicopter flying.
@@hekka7270 Ah I see. Thanks. I guess that's a good idea for immersion since another stick would be placed further away from the collective as in RL. Thanks for sharing. I'm building a throttle quadrant at the moment to cater for all types of plane, while putting 2 separate trim wheels on for occasional helicopter use.
Will simple neodymium magnet work?
Hey man I watched! 😂
Is it possible to also do z-axis like this? Or will there be space constraints?
Hi ! Nice to know at least someone is watching:) I didn't even try Z-axis because the space is so small. However there is such a thing as magnetoresistive sensor. It probably won't need a lot of space because it works different way as Hall-sensor. I have one of those (MR-sensor) but I haven't tested it yet but i will do that in the near future.
Hi! (This is "slightly" late second replay) I tested my MR-sensor but it didn't work because it was digital (not analog) and too sensitive. But I found a way how to use hall sensor anyhow. I made a new video about it and it is on my channel.
could you share some pictures of wiring?
Great video! How much does it cost? Is it worth it compared to the cheapest hall effect joystick?
Thank You! Costs depends on how much stuff you have already. I only had to buy Arduino (5 euros) push buttons (10 pieces 6 euros) magnets (20 pieces 4 euros) Hall-sensors (10 pieces 2 euros) and polycarbonate sheets (10...15 euros). You can find used Thrustmaster T.16000m costing only 30 euros so you can't save a lot of money if any. However Logitech 3D Pro is more rugged as Thrustmaster (I have disassembled both). If you are planning to use joystick many years modifying Logitech could be good choice in the long run.
For me planning and building and learning is a fun process and sometimes very frustrating :)
I would love to use the joystick but it’s sensitive as f@k. So it’s collecting dust on top of my shelf.
Are using Logitech Extreme pro with potentiometers or did you modify joystick using hall sensors and Arduino?
Just took it out of the box and plug and play, tried adjusting it with the warthunder controller settings but no luck.
Can I just replace the rudder and throttle potentiometers with hall sensors from the Logitech joystick and keep everything else? Regards from Brazil.
Sorry, but it won't work. I tried to use Logitech electronics (and no Arduino), but the potentiometers power voltage (almost 5V) dropped to 0.5V when using hall sensor (replacing that potentiometer). I even tried to "rob" the voltage directly from USB line, but then the voltage dropped to 1V. Same thing happened when I was testing Logitech Attack 3 joystick. I guess Logitech electronics just don't like hall sensors:(
@@hekka7270 Thank you very much!
Do you have the 3d models for the polycarbonate components?
Nope. I try to keep parts simple so that almost anyone can make them using basic tools.
@@hekka7270 yeah its pretty simple, but I have no experience working with 3d modeling
You should post about your other modifications you've made too
Thank You for your comments. I will post a video about DIY/modified pedals one of these days.
I see you did today! Thank you@@hekka7270
Could you show these electronics in even more detail!?
Hi! What kind of information do you need?
Nice tutorial on Joystick! Wondering if any custom PCBs and 3D printed part may help? Would love to sponsor and reach any potenail collab together! (PCBWay zoey)
Hi Zoey! Arduino pro micro costs only 5 euros or less (including shipping) so it's probably very difficult to save any money using custom PCBs ? Parts are so simple that you don't need 3D printing, but maybe it's worthwhile to use 3D printer for some hall sensor holders (X and Z axis). I only needed saw, drill, file, soldering iron and some simple tools (and a few beers) :)
@@hekka7270 Thank you for sharing pal. Got your point, and from the other perspective, we might help if a one-piece finished product you'd like to achieve. Btw, our sponsorship is open to any of your other projects as well! 🍻
Damn!!! Awesome!!
Thanks!
Awesome video, very informative
Thanks!
Can 8 Bit Do just make and sell me a joystick....I want to....no need to play star citizen and this QC issue world is holding me up while you tube has no problem making the good stuff logitech can't even make the same old joystick not suck on the z rotation.😢
thx
cool
Just commenting for algorithm
Thanks!
you got discord?
Can you be more specific?