Thank you again, I was able to fix the garage door. You stayed very calm while adjusting the pressure on the springs, I’m glad no body was video taping me while I was adjusting the pressure on the springs.
You are the man!! Thank you the video. Saw quite a few videos but was still a bit puzzled as to which direction I had to. Once you explained it... Made total sense. I did the job confidently and with ease. You were not joking at how strong the tension is. My only issue was that I thought I loosened the 10mm sufficiently, when in fact, it would engage the rod shortly after I started turning, loosening the cable that attaches to the bottom of door . Once I figured out why, I loosened the nut a lot more and was done on both doors in less than 15 mins. Thank you again.
I am an Indian roller door specialist as I noticed, Australian doors are completely different system compare to Indian roller doors like pull and push type, gear type, and the remote type, tensioning springs is similar, anyways good explanation, I really appreciate the way you are teaching, now I can do it myself, thank you so much,
I did mine today. I suggest watch more videos to learn how each person is doing it. I recommend get longer winding bars and should rest the bar against the garage after each wind. Also mark the end of the bars so you know they go all the way in. Get your hands and body out of the way. It is scary to see while he holds the bar and tightens the bolt at the same time. I would rest the bar against the door instead of holding it. It is very dangerous if you don’t know how the springs and drums work, especially when the garage is closed vs. opened. There is no room for errors.
I am really amazed to see that even today that many people still do not concern themselves with Garage Door Repair or how to keep it regularly maintained.
I think people tend to take it for granted until it stops working. A little maintenance and basic checks from time to time go a long way. Lubricating springs and rollers, checking the tension for changes. It doesn't take much, and is probably worth it. Lot's of opportunity to correct potential problems on your own terms and timing, rather than waiting for a catastrophic fail.
Doc, just a quick bit of advice. I was adjusting a torsion spring in my door back several years ago using the rebar method and the bar slipped out of the hole because the fit was wrong. Like an idiot, I naturally reacted to grab the bar when it started to spin. Tore my hand to shreds. The Dr at the emergency room told me I missed the tendon for my thumb by millimeters which could have meant no use of my thumb forever. He also said they had a Dr that did the same thing earlier that month. No damage to his hand, but he LOST HIS NOSE! So please, be careful and get the right tools and don't stand in front of those rebars.
Thanks for the comment, Jim. I used mine with some trepidation, and you can see how inadequate they were for the job. For folks reading this, take the lesson and don't suffer the same fate. Use ONLY steel rods made for the task, and only rods that fit perfectly. Better yet, as another viewer suggested, mark the rods with tape so you can measure and know each time you put them in the cone holes that the rods are fully seated before putting a load on them.
Hi everyone! You need properly fitting winding rods to do this safely! That point is made multiple times in the video and in the comments, so there's no need for more posts about it here. That is already covered. I can't go back and re-do it in much smarter fashion, but the principle is glaringly obvious, and abundantly stated and restated. This procedure isn't dangerous if you know what you're doing, which is why I posted it. If you want to spend lots of money to have a pro come and wind them for you and suggest a bunch of repairs you don't need, be my guest.
Pretty good - thanks! However!!!! BE SAFE!!! Like you say after the vid was uploaded two years ago (below): Get the right diameter steel rods for turning the hubs!! DO NOT USE REBAR!!!! Get yourself some 3/8" diameter steel rod from the hardware store. Also, adjustments need to be done EVENLY to each spring. They MUST be even, or you will tweak your door eventually. BOTH springs must have EQUAL load and torque so that both sides are drawn upward evenly and equally. One other thing, you know you have the correct number of turns on the springs (correct torque load) when the door will remain halfway open and neither close nor open by itself. Other than these suggestions, this was a very good overview and How To vid! Thanks!
I know this video has been up awhile but was wondering if I can get some help? I replaced both cables and adjusted the left spring tension, I didnt touch the right spring, the door opens manually but heavy, doesnt open automatically, it stop about an inch above the ground, should ai wind down the left spring and retention it? if so do I need to use vise grips on the bar or just retighten? Thank You!!
Hi. If you have two springs, the tension on each spring much match each other, otherwise you'll get premature failure on the overloaded spring, and as you observed, it might not work at all. I think if your door is heavy, your motor is overloaded and trips off similar to what I've seen on my own opener. If you know how many turns each spring has, make them match while tensioning them to the right load. If you don't know, start at zero turns again on both springs, and load them until your door travels correctly with the right assist. If that doesn't work, you should run the numbers to see if you have the right springs.
Thanks so much for a complete explanation. Most useful in my case as Door Installer is blaming the opener. Now I can go back to them and explain that the spring needs a bit more tightening. It is under warranty so although I could DIY Its best done by theinstallet.
Great video! Wondering if there is a way to stand more on the side so that if the pipe slipped out of your hand it wouldn't smash you in the head or arms, liked it look like could happen in the video.
Certainly. When you have proper winding rods, you don't have to try so hard to keep the rebar (don't use that!) in the holes, and that makes moving off to the side much more secure. Do not compromise safety when working with these springs.
You should get the correct steel bars for this job. Also change your position to one side of that head, and not directly under it. That is the most dangerous position to take. And I know it requires more effort from the side. But it is safety first. Good job.
I just installed 2 ea. 2' X .250 X 37' tortion springs on my 7'X 16' wood garage door, 31 1/4 turns on each, my door will not go all the way up or all the way down, any ideas?
What is the diameter of your cable drums? Check out the link at the end of this video to Torsion Garage Door Springs 202. That has all the theory you need to size your springs correctly, but if you tell me the diameter of your cable drums, I can help you size them properly for your door. If your door won't go all the way up or down, it sounds like your springs aren't sized correctly. I'm assuming 4" diameter drums and that your door is 7' tall and 16' wide. What is the unassisted weight of the door? It sounds like you're close to the proper number of turns for a 7' high door and 4" drums, but only if your door is 320 lbs. If your door isn't close to that weight, you have the wrong springs for your door.
Hi Doc, you’ve given good information to understand operation. I’m going to put insulation on panels of the garage door which could add approximately 5 kg weight on garage door. I’ve Genesis Gliderol motor operated opener. Do you think I’ll need to adjust spring tension or can you please advice if it’s ok to put insulation on the panels of door. Will there be any technical issues? Thanks
5kg is a very small percentage of the total weight of most doors. With the door spring loaded and disconnected from the motor a hand lift test should determine if you need to put more turns in the springs to balance it. It should be easy to lift with one hand anywhere along it's path of travel. You might need to put a little more force assist into the springs, but it probably won't require much.
Since replacing thebslrings my garage door has a tough time closing. I have tonise my body weight just to close the door. Do I need to losen the springs more?
That sounds like a very dangerous situation to me. When adjusted properly, the door should move up or down very easily. If your door won't close without you hanging on it, the springs are dangerously overloaded. Be careful!!! Make sure that what you do to one spring, you do to both. They must be balanced.
@@DoctorFixMaster I mean the garage door closes half way than I have to use my body weight to bring to down. I will unwind the springs. I did the recommended 30 yanks, but will take it down to 25. Thanks
@@Phakaday The door should be anchored to the opener unless you release the lock mechanism which allows the door to travel unassisted by the motor. It is in that state that you want to make spring adjustments. You only connect it to the opener after they are adjusted properly. They'll be at maximum tension when the door is closed, and it should be very easy to open with a couple of fingers. The number of turns a spring needs depends on the kind of springs you have, the diameter of the cable drums, and the height of your door. You might want to look at my other video that goes through all the theory.
My garage doors has the cable running on the front side of the drum. Is that normal? One of the cables came off as well. I wound it back up the way it was but it rubs against the metal parts of the garage door rollers. I think I need to rewind cable on the back side of the drum. What do you think?
I'd have to see a picture of what it looks like to answer that. It's hard to argue for winding it in a different way than the original installation. If the door worked at all in the past, it was probably done correctly, but I guess that is still no guarantee.
I have seen other garage door videos and people said to use oil-tempered springs (the black ones.) The ones you have are zinc galvanised springs (the shiny silver ones.) Apparently they need to be adjusted every year, they have shorter cycle life, have the chance to squeak.
Yep. This is me paying the price for not doing my homework. All of my springs from now on will be oil-tempered, not the shiny ones. I might even replace my existing ones pre-emptively if I get tired of adjusting them.
People die when adjusting the spring tension - be CAREFUL. You shouldnt stand directly in front of the bars when they are under tension - if they slip from your hand, it can fling them with enough force to do serious damage to you (or even impale/kill you).
why doesn't my spring want to tighten anymore? Is it because it's already tight? If it is, why is my door too heavy to lift then? Or, do i have to loosen keys on drum line, both sides, to do this job?
The drum keys on both sides should only ever be adjusted when the spring is not under tension, and strictly for pulling up slack in the cables and leveling the door. As you tighten the springs, you can feel the load on them increasing, because they are harder to wind up. At some point that force is sufficient assist to lift the door with very little effort. If you feel that, you're on the right track. If your door worked before but now it doesn't in spite of tightening the springs, look for blockages or obstructions. Does the door lift if you disconnect the motor and lift it by hand? It gets really heavy that way, but a few people should be able to move it up and down the track freely, and you should see the springs winding up and down as you do. Check to make sure the winding cones are tightened down sufficiently. If they aren't, the spring will just unwind and not assist the door. That's about all I can suggest without actually seeing it. Good luck!
Good video. Thanks! Are there any torque specs for those two bolts that hold the spring to the rod? I would think that is a critical component of this procedure. .. if not tight enough could slip, and too tight on the other hand could strip threads or damage the rod.
I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on garage door springs. The rods do get marked up a bit as different adjustments are made. The bolts only need to be tight enough to not slip...not so tight that they collapse the rod or put big dents in it. You have to do it by feel.
+Amar After the set screws make contact, add 3/4 of a turn on each set screw, per DDM Garage Door. ruclips.net/video/zxUoJrLhaSI/видео.html I think there are other opinions out there if you want to seek them, and I think it also varies if you have a solid vs. hollow torque tube. I can't imagine that a residential door would have a solid torque tube, but, you never know.
Please read the comments before posting. There are a lot of learnings here, and there's no need to stack up a bunch of redundant 'wisdom'. I will immediately remove any that belabor anything that has already been covered below.
So if everyone can get past safety(I like to use 2 half inch diam winding bars).... Here's my 2 cents before changing springs(#4 for adjustability) : *************************************************************************************************************************************************************** 1)Weight the door(put a scale under and spin the bar 1/2 turn to release spring tension for a brief moment- do not disconnect springs), find the right wire diam, spring diam, spring length based on door weight(call someone smart). My 7ft tall 16ft was 240 lbs. I was instructed 2"springs, .237" wire, 27" long was the best choice. They turned out perfect 2)Unplug the opener with door in closed position 3)Release spring tension before anything else. If you need more help on this step then you shouldn't tackle this by yourself. 4)The amount of rotations/windings of the springs should be equal to the amount of turns required by your side pulleys(that engage the cables that lift the door) to fully open the door, plus half or 1 complete extra turns. This is just the math of it... and the most important aspect. I wish someone told me to think of this first before trying all my backyard methods Ex:I need 84" travel to fully open the door. My 4" pulleys have 12.5" circumference. They have to rotate at least 6.7 times(84/12.5). I need to wind the springs about 7.5 turns(30quarters). From there I can adjust +/-.5 turns. If this doesn't make sense, you're taking the long way adjusting it. ************************************************************************************************************************************************************** This is key to having enough tension(cables don't fall off the pulleys) but not too much(overloaded motor). In these conditions the door should be balanced. If the door is not balanced within this range of turns,then the springs are incorrect sized for your door. A balanced door should require 2 fingers effort to lift from the ground and should not accelerate much at all past half way(springs should loose tension) and the cables should still have slight tension on them(just enough to keep them on the pulleys) when the door is fully open. In this video,after adjusting it, you can see he barely holds his balance trying to stop the door. My guess is DoctorFixMaster has those springs about ready to snap(undersized for that door). Life expectancy will be limited here. This comment is not intended as an argument to DoctorFixMaster (I appreciate you sharing info- you got a like from me), but more so as research material for mechanically inclined diy-ers Hope it helps
I’ve loosened the set screws until they are almost out, but as I try to wind the spring, the shaft turns as well, causing the cables to unwind. Any suggestions as to why this is so?
Be extremely careful if this is what you're seeing. It means that the rod the cable drums are attached to is still stuck to the springs even with the set screws all the way out. My guess is that your rod is out of round. Years of use with set screws in different places can warp the surface which can catch on the spring cones even if the set screws are out. This is super dangerous because there may not be much at all holding them in place, and then can unwind explosively all once, so be ready for that. It might be time to replace the rod that goes through the whole assembly. That's my best guess.
You might consider using a vice grip on the cable rod to insure that the spring cannot unspool on you if you slip w/one of the tension rods. Safety first.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those springs are too weak for that door. That's why the spring is hot on the top, it has too many winds put on in order to compensate for the weakness at the bottom. You're smart to retire those rebars. They were flexing way too much and were too loose. Also, when you get the correct bars, I like to put tape on them to mark the depth into the hole so I know they are fully seated every time. I bought the fancy smancy hex bars for 2 sizes, but AFAIK 99.9999999997% of residential doors all use the 1/2" bars, so just the plain steel bars are fine. Really cheap people buy three feet 1/2" bar stock and cut it in half and it supposedly works out to about $3.50 a bar. It's a good idea to stretch the springs about a coil before tightening them down, but I wouldn't do it with those rebars. ;) When tightening, about 1/2 to 3/4 turns _after contact_ is enough to hold the set screws. That looks like about what you did, I only mention it for other people. That tube is just hollow and can be easily crushed with those set screws. Also, it is hard to tell, but I think something is running dry. The door seems to be dragging/squealing.
Thanks for the comment. Great info for DIY'ers. I blame the technician who put those springs on my door for not picking the right ones. (I paid plenty for being in a hurry about it). How do I correct a door that is weak at the bottom and hot on top? Longer springs, thicker coils, or both? I'm guessing both.
+Doctor I think it usually turns out to be both, it depends on how far off the spring is. I do know that coil thickness is more important than length, tho. IIRC, you can be even 3/4" of an inch off in length and not really notice it. I know I miss-ordered my springs 1/2" too short and they still balanced just fine. My personal choice for parts is DDMgaragedoor. Whether you use them or not, they do have a spring calculator on their web site. I had heard bad things about galvanized springs like that, but I forgot what the problem with them was. Luckily, a quick search turned this up: www.phoenixazgaragedoorrepair.com/article/torsion-springs-vs-zinc-galvanized-springs/ pascocountygaragedoors.com/galvanized-springs-myth It looks like it may just be the nature of those types of springs. Turns out that shiny isn't always better. ;)
+Doctor I should clarify one thing, because it is counter intuitive. The larger the spring stock, the stronger it is, but the *shorter* a spring is, the stronger it is. This is because you use the same number of turns on a door because the number of turns is based on the height of the door and the drum size. A 20" long spring wound 7.5X is wound *tighter* than a 27" long spring wound 7.5X, so it will have more force on it. However, it will break sooner because each coil has to move more. So, that is why you can buy larger & longer springs and have the same total output power, but longer lifespans.
I picture the extremes to understand this. A one coil torsion spring will very quickly reach its load limits when wound torsionally. You get a lot of force right away, but can't assist the door for more than a couple inches. A bunch of windings distributes the movement between all of the coils. A very long spring wound torsionally would require a lot of turns to get enough force to lift a door. Each turn applying just a little more assist to the door. You want heavy assist at the bottom when the door is closed, and light assist when the door is mostly up and travelling horizontally along the track. You need a spring with a goldilocks 'just right' number of coils that slowly eases up as the door comes up, with very little assist at the top. Any online spring 'calculator' will have to account for the following variables: 1.) The weight of the unassisted door when closed. 2.) The height of the door, or basically the total travel length of the door. The forces on the door and the spring are both linear functions, so that helps us. When you match those well, you can get a near perfect assist from the bottom of travel to the top. You need thick enough coils to give enough force to lift a heavy garage door, and you need enough windings that you get a nice linear function force profile for the full travel of the door. I can load mine enough to lift the door, but it assists too much at the top of travel. That means the spring is being forced into a range that leaves that ideal linear relationship. Next time I'm going with one size thicker windings, with the next size up in spring length. Stronger spring, more coils. Keep those springs in their linear range, and they will be your friend. Overload them by having too thin coil diameter or not enough coils, and you'll have problems. Thank you so much for your comments. It's been a useful thought exercise for me.
+Doctor Pretty much on the money. Some people prefer to just use the same size as what was on the door (I have to admit, that's what I did on my personal door when it broke). But, if I did it again, I would have weighed the door and used that with a spring calculator to make sure I had the correct springs. DDM's calculator uses 5 variables: door weight door height track radius (12" or 15" on residential doors) Spring ID (1.75", 2", or 2.25" on residential doors) # of springs (either 1 or 2 on residential doors) And it has one caveat: "Note: the lift and cycle life information contained in this database applies only to standard lift garage doors with 4" diameter cable drums." When I converted a friend's extension system to a torsion system I had to start from scratch like this. In that case I picked a high cycle spring for him(in that case about 70,000 cycles). I could've gone higher, but I figured that was long enough that I'm unlikely to be the next guy working on it and it kept the cost down. ;)
I wonder if that’s what’s wrong with mine. The problem with mine is that it won’t even open. The chain won’t even move, but you can hear the motor as if it’s trying to pick the door up, but nothing happens. I thought the chain came off the track, but it wasn’t. I’m SO not going to mess with those springs though lol.
You might also have a faulty startup capacitor. I've replaced one of those before to get an opener working again. Those massive caps can be removed and tested.
Can someone help please, when I open my door half way up the cable on each side gets loose Is it because of the spring? I try to put more tension but not working Thanks
If the cables are getting loose when the door is only halfway up, that means there aren't enough turns on your springs to assist the travel of the door over its full range of motion. Assuming you have the right springs for your door, there should be max assist when the door is all the way down and min assist at the top when the door is up. Using the procedures outlined and with a proper pair of winding rods, add turns on your springs (same on both sides) until your springs are properly loaded over the full range of travel. Good luck, and be careful!
maybe you can help me . I've got a GMC with a roll up back door. I oiled the springs today cause of all the dirt and grim on them. I noticed after close examination that the door on the right side is not touching the bed of the truck . it's off about 3/8th. of an inch. do you know how to adjust this part. thanks for sharing your video . I'm constantly learning. thanks again. Just to clarify I have two springs on one door.
I'm not too familiar with roll up doors, but I found a good installation video for you: ruclips.net/video/kC4fvEQhO6I/видео.html If your door has two springs on it, it sounds like you may just need to adjust the tension on one or both sides until its level again. Just a guess, but this video link I just put here shows how to do that, assuming most roll up doors work in similar fashion. Good luck!
All's well that ends well. But yeah.....don't do that. People keep forgetting that this is a video about how door spring assists work. It is not OSHA safety training. There are plenty of videos available for that.
Yea...not fucking around with the springs or anything else...this stuff can really hurt you. If you're unsure about any of this, call a professional and have it done right. SAFETY FIRST!
Can anybody tell me if they charge me fair price....I recently call a company they came they change my torsion spring and replaced the 2 side cables...was the price fair....???
no locktite on the screws?........it appears my door installer did something wrong ..there were no screws to be found in one of the springs......10 yrs of use and one day it only opens a foot
I didn't use locktite on the screws because I want to be able to adjust them later. Springs lose their 'spring' over time and need to be adjusted once in awhile. The better the spring, the less that should be necessary. No screws in the cones means that spring isn't helping lift your door.
mine were completely missing....i cannot imagine it would work all these years missing both set screws........although there is a dent marks where they used to be
I own a pair of good winding rods now. Something I figured out long before about a thousand dumbass snarky comedians (whose comments I promptly delete) jumped in to dazzle me with their brilliance and wit. But...I'm thinking a guy who learns from his mistakes is still one up on people who can't read or follow simple instructions on commenting here.
I learned a lot by doing this myself. Certainly how to do it more safely, which we've covered endlessly in the comments. Sometimes what not to do is a potent teacher. No one can dispute the principles covered. They're solid. As an installer you already know what you charge and why those who can do it without calling you.
They are exactly the right springs. They just wore out. I posted a supplemental video about the physics of torsion springs and how to size them. It's all covered in great detail there.
I cringed watching this...... This is dangerous the way he is doing this 11:19 he is in direct fire of those turning bars you should always stand to the side of the winding bars when winding also you should backwind the spring first and let the bar rest on the top of door this way you don't have to hold the load of the spring while you are undoing the bolts , and the rebar he is using doesn't fit the holes properly bad idea. Been doing this for 15+ years and have had customers with turning bars through the arm from doing it like this. Also the spring should be stretched out a little before tightening so the coils don't rub when going up and down, as you can see on that bar where the bolt's have been previously so they were stretched before.
Torsion springs should not need to be adjusted but maybe once in its lifetime. Throw away the rebar and order a pair of winding pins. You are better off using a professional when it comes to these springs. You will never here us say we are nervous. Good luck and be careful.
When I try to close my garage door manually using the rope,the door goes down super fast that literally you can’t not hold it and ended it up slamming down to the ground
Yikes! That means there is something wrong with your spring assist. Your opener is NOT designed to take the full weight of the door, which is why spring assists exist in the first place. Your springs are either broken or they have lost their spring. They are also quite heavy, which is why you weren't able to stop it from banging down hard. Better fix that right away before you burn out your garage door opener motor or cause it to trip off like mine was.
Your springs are worn, need new ones. is this dangerous? or, should you wear the proper long sleeve shirt, gloves and better eye protection? yes!!! and the right tools.
Another guy showing YOU What not to do! Make shift tools wrong tool wrong job wrong results,Pain! He does not even have the terminology correct your round thing called a cable drum. If you don't know what your working on, Don't work on it get some help..
Horrible advice. The only way we learn is to roll up our sleeves and get into it. The dude not only fixed his problem but leanred new things himself for future use AND showed over a hundred thousand other people some basics. Based on this video folks can decide if they want to tackle the job themselves or hire somebody. In almost all cases DIY and learn rather than pay someone else. You'll increase knowledge skills and tools for the next jobs.
I'm leaving this up only because JeffreyJaguar posted such a great rebuttal. I've posted a supplemental video about torsion spring theory and go over why cable drums matter, as well as a few safety tips. I'm not sure what your problem is. This is all basic physics, no matter what terminology you use. As for wrong results, you're wrong. My results were spot on. The only thing wrong with this video is not using winding bars, but I have since picked up a pair, and that error has been corrected and mentioned in numerous comments.
![Garage Door Torsion Spring Replacement: How to by [Professional Tech]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5k9qrgZ9rPs/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you again, I was able to fix the garage door. You stayed very calm while adjusting the pressure on the springs, I’m glad no body was video taping me while I was adjusting the pressure on the springs.
What happens when the spring has no more adjustment
@@phillipmaher6008 sorry, I have no idea. Ask the doctorfixmaster, he’s the guy that made this video. Good luck.
Thank you for the great video
You are the man!! Thank you the video. Saw quite a few videos but was still a bit puzzled as to which direction I had to. Once you explained it... Made total sense. I did the job confidently and with ease. You were not joking at how strong the tension is.
My only issue was that I thought I loosened the 10mm sufficiently, when in fact, it would engage the rod shortly after I started turning, loosening the cable that attaches to the bottom of door . Once I figured out why, I loosened the nut a lot more and was done on both doors in less than 15 mins.
Thank you again.
I am an Indian roller door specialist as I noticed, Australian doors are completely different system compare to Indian roller doors like pull and push type, gear type, and the remote type, tensioning springs is similar, anyways good explanation, I really appreciate the way you are teaching, now I can do it myself, thank you so much,
I did mine today. I suggest watch more videos to learn how each person is doing it. I recommend get longer winding bars and should rest the bar against the garage after each wind. Also mark the end of the bars so you know they go all the way in. Get your hands and body out of the way. It is scary to see while he holds the bar and tightens the bolt at the same time. I would rest the bar against the door instead of holding it. It is very dangerous if you don’t know how the springs and drums work, especially when the garage is closed vs. opened. There is no room for errors.
I am really amazed to see that even today that many people still do not concern themselves with Garage Door Repair or how to keep it regularly maintained.
I think people tend to take it for granted until it stops working. A little maintenance and basic checks from time to time go a long way. Lubricating springs and rollers, checking the tension for changes. It doesn't take much, and is probably worth it. Lot's of opportunity to correct potential problems on your own terms and timing, rather than waiting for a catastrophic fail.
Very informative and thorough. Well done. Dangerous, but well done.
Thanks. I'd be much safer doing this today than I was when I was learning and posting this. Get yourself some proper winding rods and be safe!
Doc, just a quick bit of advice. I was adjusting a torsion spring in my door back several years ago using the rebar method and the bar slipped out of the hole because the fit was wrong. Like an idiot, I naturally reacted to grab the bar when it started to spin. Tore my hand to shreds. The Dr at the emergency room told me I missed the tendon for my thumb by millimeters which could have meant no use of my thumb forever. He also said they had a Dr that did the same thing earlier that month. No damage to his hand, but he LOST HIS NOSE! So please, be careful and get the right tools and don't stand in front of those rebars.
Thanks for the comment, Jim. I used mine with some trepidation, and you can see how inadequate they were for the job. For folks reading this, take the lesson and don't suffer the same fate. Use ONLY steel rods made for the task, and only rods that fit perfectly. Better yet, as another viewer suggested, mark the rods with tape so you can measure and know each time you put them in the cone holes that the rods are fully seated before putting a load on them.
Thank you great warning I like my finger or nose so those are great advice thank you sir
Hi everyone! You need properly fitting winding rods to do this safely! That point is made multiple times in the video and in the comments, so there's no need for more posts about it here. That is already covered. I can't go back and re-do it in much smarter fashion, but the principle is glaringly obvious, and abundantly stated and restated. This procedure isn't dangerous if you know what you're doing, which is why I posted it. If you want to spend lots of money to have a pro come and wind them for you and suggest a bunch of repairs you don't need, be my guest.
Pretty good - thanks! However!!!! BE SAFE!!! Like you say after the vid was uploaded two years ago (below):
Get the right diameter steel rods for turning the hubs!! DO NOT USE REBAR!!!! Get yourself some 3/8" diameter steel rod from the hardware store.
Also, adjustments need to be done EVENLY to each spring. They MUST be even, or you will tweak your door eventually. BOTH springs must have EQUAL load and torque so that both sides are drawn upward evenly and equally. One other thing, you know you have the correct number of turns on the springs (correct torque load) when the door will remain halfway open and neither close nor open by itself.
Other than these suggestions, this was a very good overview and How To vid! Thanks!
Remember he makes it look easy.
I know this video has been up awhile but was wondering if I can get some help? I replaced both cables and adjusted the left spring tension, I didnt touch the right spring, the door opens manually but heavy, doesnt open automatically, it stop about an inch above the ground, should ai wind down the left spring and retention it? if so do I need to use vise grips on the bar or just retighten? Thank You!!
Hi. If you have two springs, the tension on each spring much match each other, otherwise you'll get premature failure on the overloaded spring, and as you observed, it might not work at all. I think if your door is heavy, your motor is overloaded and trips off similar to what I've seen on my own opener. If you know how many turns each spring has, make them match while tensioning them to the right load. If you don't know, start at zero turns again on both springs, and load them until your door travels correctly with the right assist. If that doesn't work, you should run the numbers to see if you have the right springs.
Thanks so much for a complete explanation. Most useful in my case as Door Installer is blaming the opener. Now I can go back to them and explain that the spring needs a bit more tightening. It is under warranty so although I could DIY Its best done by theinstallet.
Great video! Wondering if there is a way to stand more on the side so that if the pipe slipped out of your hand it wouldn't smash you in the head or arms, liked it look like could happen in the video.
Certainly. When you have proper winding rods, you don't have to try so hard to keep the rebar (don't use that!) in the holes, and that makes moving off to the side much more secure. Do not compromise safety when working with these springs.
You should get the correct steel bars for this job. Also change your position to one side of that head, and not directly under it. That is the most dangerous position to take. And I know it requires more effort from the side. But it is safety first. Good job.
ihave done this in the past but needed refrersher thank you
I just installed 2 ea. 2' X .250 X 37' tortion springs on my 7'X 16' wood garage door, 31 1/4 turns on each, my door will not go all the way up or all the way down, any ideas?
What is the diameter of your cable drums? Check out the link at the end of this video to Torsion Garage Door Springs 202. That has all the theory you need to size your springs correctly, but if you tell me the diameter of your cable drums, I can help you size them properly for your door. If your door won't go all the way up or down, it sounds like your springs aren't sized correctly. I'm assuming 4" diameter drums and that your door is 7' tall and 16' wide. What is the unassisted weight of the door? It sounds like you're close to the proper number of turns for a 7' high door and 4" drums, but only if your door is 320 lbs. If your door isn't close to that weight, you have the wrong springs for your door.
Hi Doc, you’ve given good information to understand operation. I’m going to put insulation on panels of the garage door which could add approximately 5 kg weight on garage door. I’ve Genesis Gliderol motor operated opener. Do you think I’ll need to adjust spring tension or can you please advice if it’s ok to put insulation on the panels of door. Will there be any technical issues? Thanks
5kg is a very small percentage of the total weight of most doors. With the door spring loaded and disconnected from the motor a hand lift test should determine if you need to put more turns in the springs to balance it. It should be easy to lift with one hand anywhere along it's path of travel. You might need to put a little more force assist into the springs, but it probably won't require much.
Since replacing thebslrings my garage door has a tough time closing. I have tonise my body weight just to close the door. Do I need to losen the springs more?
That sounds like a very dangerous situation to me. When adjusted properly, the door should move up or down very easily. If your door won't close without you hanging on it, the springs are dangerously overloaded. Be careful!!! Make sure that what you do to one spring, you do to both. They must be balanced.
@@DoctorFixMaster I mean the garage door closes half way than I have to use my body weight to bring to down. I will unwind the springs. I did the recommended 30 yanks, but will take it down to 25. Thanks
@@Phakaday The door should be anchored to the opener unless you release the lock mechanism which allows the door to travel unassisted by the motor. It is in that state that you want to make spring adjustments. You only connect it to the opener after they are adjusted properly. They'll be at maximum tension when the door is closed, and it should be very easy to open with a couple of fingers. The number of turns a spring needs depends on the kind of springs you have, the diameter of the cable drums, and the height of your door. You might want to look at my other video that goes through all the theory.
Thanks for the instructions. It worked just like you said. Thanks again
My garage doors has the cable running on the front side of the drum. Is that normal? One of the cables came off as well. I wound it back up the way it was but it rubs against the metal parts of the garage door rollers. I think I need to rewind cable on the back side of the drum. What do you think?
I'd have to see a picture of what it looks like to answer that. It's hard to argue for winding it in a different way than the original installation. If the door worked at all in the past, it was probably done correctly, but I guess that is still no guarantee.
I have seen other garage door videos and people said to use oil-tempered springs (the black ones.) The ones you have are zinc galvanised springs (the shiny silver ones.) Apparently they need to be adjusted every year, they have shorter cycle life, have the chance to squeak.
Yep. This is me paying the price for not doing my homework. All of my springs from now on will be oil-tempered, not the shiny ones. I might even replace my existing ones pre-emptively if I get tired of adjusting them.
okay.
People die when adjusting the spring tension - be CAREFUL. You shouldnt stand directly in front of the bars when they are under tension - if they slip from your hand, it can fling them with enough force to do serious damage to you (or even impale/kill you).
why doesn't my spring want to tighten anymore? Is it because it's already tight? If it is, why is my door too heavy to lift then? Or, do i have to loosen keys on drum line, both sides, to do this job?
The drum keys on both sides should only ever be adjusted when the spring is not under tension, and strictly for pulling up slack in the cables and leveling the door. As you tighten the springs, you can feel the load on them increasing, because they are harder to wind up. At some point that force is sufficient assist to lift the door with very little effort. If you feel that, you're on the right track. If your door worked before but now it doesn't in spite of tightening the springs, look for blockages or obstructions. Does the door lift if you disconnect the motor and lift it by hand? It gets really heavy that way, but a few people should be able to move it up and down the track freely, and you should see the springs winding up and down as you do. Check to make sure the winding cones are tightened down sufficiently. If they aren't, the spring will just unwind and not assist the door. That's about all I can suggest without actually seeing it. Good luck!
Excellent demonstration and tutorial.
Thanks for the very informative video it helped a lot.
Good video. Thanks!
Are there any torque specs for those two bolts that hold the spring to the rod? I would think that is a critical component of this procedure. .. if not tight enough could slip, and too tight on the other hand could strip threads or damage the rod.
I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on garage door springs. The rods do get marked up a bit as different adjustments are made. The bolts only need to be tight enough to not slip...not so tight that they collapse the rod or put big dents in it. You have to do it by feel.
+Amar After the set screws make contact, add 3/4 of a turn on each set screw, per DDM Garage Door. ruclips.net/video/zxUoJrLhaSI/видео.html
I think there are other opinions out there if you want to seek them, and I think it also varies if you have a solid vs. hollow torque tube. I can't imagine that a residential door would have a solid torque tube, but, you never know.
Please read the comments before posting. There are a lot of learnings here, and there's no need to stack up a bunch of redundant 'wisdom'. I will immediately remove any that belabor anything that has already been covered below.
I think he's fond of the phase "ballistically unwind". :-)
If you've ever seen that happen, you'll understand why there is no better phrase for it. You don't want to be anywhere near it when it does. :D
@@DoctorFixMaster I can only imagine! :-)
So if everyone can get past safety(I like to use 2 half inch diam winding bars).... Here's my 2 cents before changing springs(#4 for adjustability) :
***************************************************************************************************************************************************************
1)Weight the door(put a scale under and spin the bar 1/2 turn to release spring tension for a brief moment- do not disconnect springs), find the right wire diam, spring diam, spring length based on door weight(call someone smart). My 7ft tall 16ft was 240 lbs. I was instructed 2"springs, .237" wire, 27" long was the best choice. They turned out perfect
2)Unplug the opener with door in closed position
3)Release spring tension before anything else. If you need more help on this step then you shouldn't tackle this by yourself.
4)The amount of rotations/windings of the springs should be equal to the amount of turns required by your side pulleys(that engage the cables that lift the door) to fully open the door, plus half or 1 complete extra turns. This is just the math of it... and the most important aspect. I wish someone told me to think of this first before trying all my backyard methods
Ex:I need 84" travel to fully open the door. My 4" pulleys have 12.5" circumference. They have to rotate at least 6.7 times(84/12.5). I need to wind the springs about 7.5 turns(30quarters). From there I can adjust +/-.5 turns. If this doesn't make sense, you're taking the long way adjusting it.
**************************************************************************************************************************************************************
This is key to having enough tension(cables don't fall off the pulleys) but not too much(overloaded motor). In these conditions the door should be balanced. If the door is not balanced within this range of turns,then the springs are incorrect sized for your door. A balanced door should require 2 fingers effort to lift from the ground and should not accelerate much at all past half way(springs should loose tension) and the cables should still have slight tension on them(just enough to keep them on the pulleys) when the door is fully open. In this video,after adjusting it, you can see he barely holds his balance trying to stop the door. My guess is DoctorFixMaster has those springs about ready to snap(undersized for that door). Life expectancy will be limited here.
This comment is not intended as an argument to DoctorFixMaster (I appreciate you sharing info- you got a like from me), but more so as research material for mechanically inclined diy-ers
Hope it helps
I’ve loosened the set screws until they are almost out, but as I try to wind the spring, the shaft turns as well, causing the cables to unwind.
Any suggestions as to why this is so?
Be extremely careful if this is what you're seeing. It means that the rod the cable drums are attached to is still stuck to the springs even with the set screws all the way out. My guess is that your rod is out of round. Years of use with set screws in different places can warp the surface which can catch on the spring cones even if the set screws are out. This is super dangerous because there may not be much at all holding them in place, and then can unwind explosively all once, so be ready for that. It might be time to replace the rod that goes through the whole assembly. That's my best guess.
You might consider using a vice grip on the cable rod to insure that the spring cannot unspool on you if you slip w/one of the tension rods. Safety first.
You could do that if you had two people working on it. Vice grips are problematic when you're just one guy trying to put multiple turns on the spring.
If the spring is broken, will that also cause the garage not to open?
Sometimes. Then some people crank up the power on the operator and then this happens: ruclips.net/video/3UvNpHAIdy0/видео.html
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those springs are too weak for that door. That's why the spring is hot on the top, it has too many winds put on in order to compensate for the weakness at the bottom.
You're smart to retire those rebars. They were flexing way too much and were too loose. Also, when you get the correct bars, I like to put tape on them to mark the depth into the hole so I know they are fully seated every time.
I bought the fancy smancy hex bars for 2 sizes, but AFAIK 99.9999999997% of residential doors all use the 1/2" bars, so just the plain steel bars are fine. Really cheap people buy three feet 1/2" bar stock and cut it in half and it supposedly works out to about $3.50 a bar.
It's a good idea to stretch the springs about a coil before tightening them down, but I wouldn't do it with those rebars. ;)
When tightening, about 1/2 to 3/4 turns _after contact_ is enough to hold the set screws. That looks like about what you did, I only mention it for other people. That tube is just hollow and can be easily crushed with those set screws.
Also, it is hard to tell, but I think something is running dry. The door seems to be dragging/squealing.
Thanks for the comment. Great info for DIY'ers. I blame the technician who put those springs on my door for not picking the right ones. (I paid plenty for being in a hurry about it). How do I correct a door that is weak at the bottom and hot on top? Longer springs, thicker coils, or both? I'm guessing both.
+Doctor I think it usually turns out to be both, it depends on how far off the spring is. I do know that coil thickness is more important than length, tho. IIRC, you can be even 3/4" of an inch off in length and not really notice it. I know I miss-ordered my springs 1/2" too short and they still balanced just fine.
My personal choice for parts is DDMgaragedoor. Whether you use them or not, they do have a spring calculator on their web site.
I had heard bad things about galvanized springs like that, but I forgot what the problem with them was. Luckily, a quick search turned this up:
www.phoenixazgaragedoorrepair.com/article/torsion-springs-vs-zinc-galvanized-springs/
pascocountygaragedoors.com/galvanized-springs-myth
It looks like it may just be the nature of those types of springs. Turns out that shiny isn't always better. ;)
+Doctor I should clarify one thing, because it is counter intuitive. The larger the spring stock, the stronger it is, but the *shorter* a spring is, the stronger it is. This is because you use the same number of turns on a door because the number of turns is based on the height of the door and the drum size.
A 20" long spring wound 7.5X is wound *tighter* than a 27" long spring wound 7.5X, so it will have more force on it. However, it will break sooner because each coil has to move more.
So, that is why you can buy larger & longer springs and have the same total output power, but longer lifespans.
I picture the extremes to understand this. A one coil torsion spring will very quickly reach its load limits when wound torsionally. You get a lot of force right away, but can't assist the door for more than a couple inches. A bunch of windings distributes the movement between all of the coils. A very long spring wound torsionally would require a lot of turns to get enough force to lift a door. Each turn applying just a little more assist to the door. You want heavy assist at the bottom when the door is closed, and light assist when the door is mostly up and travelling horizontally along the track. You need a spring with a goldilocks 'just right' number of coils that slowly eases up as the door comes up, with very little assist at the top. Any online spring 'calculator' will have to account for the following variables: 1.) The weight of the unassisted door when closed. 2.) The height of the door, or basically the total travel length of the door. The forces on the door and the spring are both linear functions, so that helps us. When you match those well, you can get a near perfect assist from the bottom of travel to the top. You need thick enough coils to give enough force to lift a heavy garage door, and you need enough windings that you get a nice linear function force profile for the full travel of the door. I can load mine enough to lift the door, but it assists too much at the top of travel. That means the spring is being forced into a range that leaves that ideal linear relationship. Next time I'm going with one size thicker windings, with the next size up in spring length. Stronger spring, more coils. Keep those springs in their linear range, and they will be your friend. Overload them by having too thin coil diameter or not enough coils, and you'll have problems. Thank you so much for your comments. It's been a useful thought exercise for me.
+Doctor Pretty much on the money. Some people prefer to just use the same size as what was on the door (I have to admit, that's what I did on my personal door when it broke). But, if I did it again, I would have weighed the door and used that with a spring calculator to make sure I had the correct springs.
DDM's calculator uses 5 variables:
door weight
door height
track radius (12" or 15" on residential doors)
Spring ID (1.75", 2", or 2.25" on residential doors)
# of springs (either 1 or 2 on residential doors)
And it has one caveat: "Note: the lift and cycle life information contained in this database applies only to standard lift garage doors with 4" diameter cable drums."
When I converted a friend's extension system to a torsion system I had to start from scratch like this. In that case I picked a high cycle spring for him(in that case about 70,000 cycles). I could've gone higher, but I figured that was long enough that I'm unlikely to be the next guy working on it and it kept the cost down. ;)
I wonder if that’s what’s wrong with mine. The problem with mine is that it won’t even open. The chain won’t even move, but you can hear the motor as if it’s trying to pick the door up, but nothing happens. I thought the chain came off the track, but it wasn’t. I’m SO not going to mess with those springs though lol.
You might also have a faulty startup capacitor. I've replaced one of those before to get an opener working again. Those massive caps can be removed and tested.
Thank you for your time. You covered all my questions and concerns. This is the only video I will have to watch. Thanks again!
Thank you for video sir
Can someone help please, when I open my door half way up the cable on each side gets loose
Is it because of the spring? I try to put more tension but not working
Thanks
If the cables are getting loose when the door is only halfway up, that means there aren't enough turns on your springs to assist the travel of the door over its full range of motion. Assuming you have the right springs for your door, there should be max assist when the door is all the way down and min assist at the top when the door is up. Using the procedures outlined and with a proper pair of winding rods, add turns on your springs (same on both sides) until your springs are properly loaded over the full range of travel. Good luck, and be careful!
maybe you can help me . I've got a GMC with a roll up back door. I oiled the springs today cause of all the dirt and grim on them. I noticed after close examination that the door on the right side is not touching the bed of the truck . it's off about 3/8th. of an inch. do you know how to adjust this part. thanks for sharing your video . I'm constantly learning. thanks again. Just to clarify I have two springs on one door.
I'm not too familiar with roll up doors, but I found a good installation video for you: ruclips.net/video/kC4fvEQhO6I/видео.html
If your door has two springs on it, it sounds like you may just need to adjust the tension on one or both sides until its level again. Just a guess, but this video link I just put here shows how to do that, assuming most roll up doors work in similar fashion. Good luck!
Great job man !!!!awesome video
The silver springs are not great they break faster. Install the black springs they are longer lasting and quieter
Love how your face is positioned directly in the danger zone not to the side..
All's well that ends well. But yeah.....don't do that. People keep forgetting that this is a video about how door spring assists work. It is not OSHA safety training. There are plenty of videos available for that.
My tension cables aren’t attaching to the bar, it’s crazy
The cable drums they wind around should be bolted to the bar and rotate together with it.
Yea...not fucking around with the springs or anything else...this stuff can really hurt you. If you're unsure about any of this, call a professional and have it done right. SAFETY FIRST!
Careful. Always wear PPE and use proper tools to adjust. Cheers
Can anybody tell me if they charge me fair price....I recently call a company they came they change my torsion spring and replaced the 2 side cables...was the price fair....???
What did they charge you?
$430.00
Oh and the middle bracket attached to the door
@@JoseReyes-zt7vl That sounds about what I'd expect for that service. It's more than I'm willing to pay though.
my center bracket came loose
I can now answer the question, "Where's the BEEF?" LOL
:D That license plate was a gift to my son. That became his nickname, so when I saw that license plate, I knew I had to give him one.
This was scary to watch. Those bars were bending too much for me.
Yep. Never again. It should be much safer with proper winding bars.
no locktite on the screws?........it appears my door installer did something wrong ..there were no screws to be found in one of the springs......10 yrs of use and one day it only opens a foot
I didn't use locktite on the screws because I want to be able to adjust them later. Springs lose their 'spring' over time and need to be adjusted once in awhile. The better the spring, the less that should be necessary. No screws in the cones means that spring isn't helping lift your door.
mine were completely missing....i cannot imagine it would work all these years missing both set screws........although there is a dent marks where they used to be
That screw drive needs some white grease.
Please use 1/2 " cold rolled steel stock, not 3/8" rebar.
I own a pair of good winding rods now. Something I figured out long before about a thousand dumbass snarky comedians (whose comments I promptly delete) jumped in to dazzle me with their brilliance and wit. But...I'm thinking a guy who learns from his mistakes is still one up on people who can't read or follow simple instructions on commenting here.
I just bought the tool to wind the spring and the garage store for 10 dollars
Yep. Winding bars don't cost too much.
As an installer. That was hard to watch 🫣🫣🫣
I learned a lot by doing this myself. Certainly how to do it more safely, which we've covered endlessly in the comments. Sometimes what not to do is a potent teacher. No one can dispute the principles covered. They're solid. As an installer you already know what you charge and why those who can do it without calling you.
Time to hire a pro
You mentioned that your glasses are "rated for safety" but where are your side shields, and gloves.
:D Good point. Be safe people!
C Roberts I thought that was great. These glasses are rated for ...”safety”! Lol.
They are wrong springs. A 7ft standard headroom gets 7to7 half full turn's 8ft 8 8half turn
They are exactly the right springs. They just wore out. I posted a supplemental video about the physics of torsion springs and how to size them. It's all covered in great detail there.
Thx.
Rebar? Not safe. Spend $20-30 and get the right tools for the job my friend
Yes, very well established in the comments below, and in my own comments in the video.
Where do you buy the adjustment bars at?
I Work believe I was
I cringed watching this......
This is dangerous the way he is doing this 11:19 he is in direct fire of those turning bars you should always stand to the side of the winding bars when winding also you should backwind the spring first and let the bar rest on the top of door this way you don't have to hold the load of the spring while you are undoing the bolts , and the rebar he is using doesn't fit the holes properly bad idea. Been doing this for 15+ years and have had customers with turning bars through the arm from doing it like this. Also the spring should be stretched out a little before tightening so the coils don't rub when going up and down, as you can see on that bar where the bolt's have been previously so they were stretched before.
Torsion springs should not need to be adjusted but maybe once in its lifetime. Throw away the rebar and order a pair of winding pins. You are better off using a professional when it comes to these springs. You will never here us say we are nervous. Good luck and be careful.
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodglut.
PS: Don't quit your day job !
My day job is designing analog components for microprocessors. Try insulting me again when you comprehend 1% of that.
When I try to close my garage door manually using the rope,the door goes down super fast that literally you can’t not hold it and ended it up slamming down to the ground
Yikes! That means there is something wrong with your spring assist. Your opener is NOT designed to take the full weight of the door, which is why spring assists exist in the first place. Your springs are either broken or they have lost their spring. They are also quite heavy, which is why you weren't able to stop it from banging down hard. Better fix that right away before you burn out your garage door opener motor or cause it to trip off like mine was.
Your springs are worn, need new ones. is this dangerous? or, should you wear the proper long sleeve shirt, gloves and better eye protection? yes!!! and the right tools.
Another guy showing YOU What not to do! Make shift tools wrong tool wrong job wrong results,Pain! He does not even have the terminology correct your round thing called a cable drum. If you don't know what your working on, Don't work on it get some help..
Horrible advice. The only way we learn is to roll up our sleeves and get into it. The dude not only fixed his problem but leanred new things himself for future use AND showed over a hundred thousand other people some basics. Based on this video folks can decide if they want to tackle the job themselves or hire somebody. In almost all cases DIY and learn rather than pay someone else. You'll increase knowledge skills and tools for the next jobs.
Thanks. I appreciate the backup. I've posted another video covering the theory better and safety as well.
I'm leaving this up only because JeffreyJaguar posted such a great rebuttal. I've posted a supplemental video about torsion spring theory and go over why cable drums matter, as well as a few safety tips. I'm not sure what your problem is. This is all basic physics, no matter what terminology you use. As for wrong results, you're wrong. My results were spot on. The only thing wrong with this video is not using winding bars, but I have since picked up a pair, and that error has been corrected and mentioned in numerous comments.