Every video I pick up something new. I've never seen coaxial audio cable done like that with the shield connected to one of the conductors. I can see the benefits and if anything there is less likely a chance of having the signal short to ground that's easy to do when working with those whiskers. Thanks again!
I did enjoy your video very much. This my be very basic to you and others, but for me it answers a lot of questions. Thanks So Very Much!! Stay safe out there
Also would be nice if folks could behave more politely.... I found them on EBAY, there IS/WAS no link. If you had asked nicely, I would have been happy to look up a current auction for you. But since you were so rude, now you can go find them yourself.
This is very informative. I'm considering changing the rca jacks on my Luxman L-480 as one side drops out on the phono. They appear to be close together than the standard replacement pair rca jacks. Can I use the individual ones as you've used? Thanks in advance.
Can this same method be used when replacing the rca jacks on the T11 ? Any advice on that would be great? Can the shielded wire be soldered to that board?
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics I went back in and replaced the ground lug and wire on the t11, was able to get a 300 foot spool of gls shielded mic cable for 20 bucks on amazon. Super deal 84 percent off. Also i removed the rca plastic boxes from the board. When my parts get here tomorrow im going to solder up the new rca jacks. Thank you again for another great video.
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics I got the new rca jacks and ground lug done in my little bear t11, it was a tight fit but dooable, the solder joints on the board are very close to the rca jacks, You really have only a few options. Relocate them, or insulate the back of your lugs and flatten out your solder joints like i did. As long as you stick to the smallish size rca jacks it's doable. The mic cable is super flexible and was a huge help. The end result was a quieter better sound stage and even more clarity. :) ps that mic cable makes an awesome turntable ground wire. You said in your t11 mod video that it was a 9 out of 10. With the rca modd and the new ground lug its closer to that 10 out of 10
I realy enjoy your videos, to me, they reflect percfectly the DIY spirit. I have two questions. Do the difference in the lenght of the wires for the RCA could affect in any ways the signal? Since solder has much less conductivity than copper, could there be a significant difference between a mechanical joint versus a soldered one? Thanks
No and No. On the first one, electricity travels much faster than the frequency of the signal, it's not possible that a few inches of difference in the signal path length could have any impact. On a soldered joint, we are talking about the conductivity though less than 1mm of solder. Theoretically I supposed a tight mechanical joint would conduct immeasurably better, but at least for me as a DIYer, I find myself changing components testing ideas often enough that dealing with tight mechanical connections, that are then soldered, makes that a royal pain if not impossible. Also, if pure solder connections were a problem, no PCB products would work and many high end amplifiers use PCBs.
I don't have scope but assume I don't hear hum or noise on the speakers, however; it shows small noise on the scope, should I fix with the shield wire method? Wonder if it's necessary. Great video
If the amp is quiet to your ears, I wouldn't bother and this is just how I deal with shielded wire. Many great amps just use the conventional single wire + shield with the shield used as the negative, I've wired amps like that myself.
My main suggestion is to wash your hands after working with it. If I was doing this a lot, I would consider wearing latex gloves. I am getting a "fume extractor" and even a small fan is a good idea to not breath the flux fumes.
I have a slight comment. I feel you should tin the twisted shield cable completely then solder it. As this will remove any chance for any whiskers to ever cause a short. Probably over kill but good practice.
Those vendors Nick mentioned and: tubesandmore.com aka Antique Electronic Supply, Angela Instruments, Viva Tubes, youdaelectronics.com and finally Ebay are my primary sources of parts.
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics I appreciate the way you wired these inputs. Specifically, what brand are those are input jacks? I recently bought some that won’t stay tight. Looks like these are very solid and I’d like to replace mine with these. Thanks.
Thank you so much for end of video. Thought you forgot to show how to install the rca jack to the frame. Thanks again
Every video I pick up something new. I've never seen coaxial audio cable done like that with the shield connected to one of the conductors. I can see the benefits and if anything there is less likely a chance of having the signal short to ground that's easy to do when working with those whiskers. Thanks again!
Is this OK with a single ended amplifier? Thanks
I did enjoy your video very much. This my be very basic to you and others, but for me it answers a lot of questions. Thanks So Very Much!! Stay safe out there
I'm still learning about this stuff myself and trying to understand it.
Have been wanting to better understand how to shield RCA wires, and your theory makes perfect sense to me :) Thanks!
I was able to convert RCA to HDMI, shield and ground correctly in my truck thanks to your video (with no hum noises).
Glad I could help!
Nice clean work as usual. Thanks for another great vid! 👍🎶🔊✨
Would have been nice if you had provided a link to get those particular jacks
Also would be nice if folks could behave more politely.... I found them on EBAY, there IS/WAS no link. If you had asked nicely, I would have been happy to look up a current auction for you. But since you were so rude, now you can go find them yourself.
This is very informative. I'm considering changing the rca jacks on my Luxman L-480 as one side drops out on the phono. They appear to be close together than the standard replacement pair rca jacks. Can I use the individual ones as you've used? Thanks in advance.
Hard to say without seeing it.
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics can I send you a photo? Thanks again.
Can this same method be used when replacing the rca jacks on the T11 ? Any advice on that would be great? Can the shielded wire be soldered to that board?
Yes it can :)
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics I went back in and replaced the ground lug and wire on the t11, was able to get a 300 foot spool of gls shielded mic cable for 20 bucks on amazon. Super deal 84 percent off. Also i removed the rca plastic boxes from the board. When my parts get here tomorrow im going to solder up the new rca jacks.
Thank you again for another great video.
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics I got the new rca jacks and ground lug done in my little bear t11, it was a tight fit but dooable, the solder joints on the board are very close to the rca jacks,
You really have only a few options. Relocate them, or insulate the back of your lugs and flatten out your solder joints like i did. As long as you stick to the smallish size rca jacks it's doable. The mic cable is super flexible and was a huge help. The end result was a quieter better sound stage and even more clarity. :) ps that mic cable makes an awesome turntable ground wire. You said in your t11 mod video that it was a 9 out of 10. With the rca modd and the new ground lug its closer to that 10 out of 10
I see you used a lug that is connected to the enclosure and a wire for ground too. Couldn’t this created a ground loop? Thanks for this video.
Never had any issue doing this in dozens of amp builds..
Again Thanks for this good video.
I realy enjoy your videos, to me, they reflect percfectly the DIY spirit. I have two questions. Do the difference in the lenght of the wires for the RCA could affect in any ways the signal? Since solder has much less conductivity than copper, could there be a significant difference between a mechanical joint versus a soldered one? Thanks
No and No.
On the first one, electricity travels much faster than the frequency of the signal, it's not possible that a few inches of difference in the signal path length could have any impact.
On a soldered joint, we are talking about the conductivity though less than 1mm of solder. Theoretically I supposed a tight mechanical joint would conduct immeasurably better, but at least for me as a DIYer, I find myself changing components testing ideas often enough that dealing with tight mechanical connections, that are then soldered, makes that a royal pain if not impossible. Also, if pure solder connections were a problem, no PCB products would work and many high end amplifiers use PCBs.
I don't have scope but assume I don't hear hum or noise on the speakers, however; it shows small noise on the scope, should I fix with the shield wire method? Wonder if it's necessary. Great video
If the amp is quiet to your ears, I wouldn't bother and this is just how I deal with shielded wire. Many great amps just use the conventional single wire + shield with the shield used as the negative, I've wired amps like that myself.
Excellent video👍
There is some recommendation to not touch the lead wire for soldering, what about you idea ?
My main suggestion is to wash your hands after working with it. If I was doing this a lot, I would consider wearing latex gloves. I am getting a "fume extractor" and even a small fan is a good idea to not breath the flux fumes.
I have a slight comment. I feel you should tin the twisted shield cable completely then solder it.
As this will remove any chance for any whiskers to ever cause a short. Probably over kill but good practice.
Good point!
Thank you for your help
Would be nice to know the suppliers of your,parts.Very hard to achieve without ''advertising'' But many videos give links to their wares...
Mouser, Digikey, Parts Connexion are just 3 places to buy these parts
Those vendors Nick mentioned and: tubesandmore.com aka Antique Electronic Supply, Angela Instruments, Viva Tubes, youdaelectronics.com and finally Ebay are my primary sources of parts.
@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics I appreciate the way you wired these inputs. Specifically, what brand are those are input jacks? I recently bought some that won’t stay tight. Looks like these are very solid and I’d like to replace mine with these. Thanks.
Thank u this is an amazing tutorial!!🖤🩵🖤🙌
Glad you like it!