Well I guess it depends on what you mean by correct… it is the way they intended it from the factory, yes, but especially on these epis If they can be flipped and properly intonated it has a sharper break angle which is better, it makes quite an improvement actually, why it was designed that way, I have no idea. Obviously not something I’d do if someone was trying to collect a Museum piece but for a player, it’s worth a shot, quick and easily reversed!
I had to go back and watch, I suppose I didn’t clarify that the guitar came like that from the factory and that I was modifying it, it was really unclear for sure but by ‘wrong way’, I mean ‘stock!’ It plays great now and I was able to get intonation set no problem!
@@tsloth1390 The only reason I mentioned it is that the grooves are wider and deeper on bottom E, A and D, and thinner on G,B, and top E. My Epi (2003) come the same as yours and seems ok. Regards.
The bridge is actually the correct way round.
Well I guess it depends on what you mean by correct… it is the way they intended it from the factory, yes, but especially on these epis If they can be flipped and properly intonated it has a sharper break angle which is better, it makes quite an improvement actually, why it was designed that way, I have no idea. Obviously not something I’d do if someone was trying to collect a
Museum piece but for a player, it’s worth a shot, quick and easily reversed!
I had to go back and watch, I suppose I didn’t clarify that the guitar came like that from the factory and that I was modifying it, it was really unclear for sure but by ‘wrong way’, I mean ‘stock!’ It plays great now and I was able to get intonation set no problem!
@@tsloth1390 The only reason I mentioned it is that the grooves are wider and deeper on bottom E, A and D, and thinner on G,B, and top E.
My Epi (2003) come the same as yours and seems ok. Regards.
@@raymartin1234 I switched the saddles for sure!