Regarding the split link, I had the same problem with a new chain which is slightly wider than the original, so I had to fit the split link on the inside. Bit of a pain, but cured the problem. Roll on the spring Paul.
Interesting series of videos Paul. Thank you. My ancient Haynes manual says max 3 thou end float on the crank. It also says that, ideally, there should be no noticeable end float. Good luck, Bill
As many others have said, the A10 end float specification is much the same as the A50 and A65. Given all the other upgrades, it may have a timing side roller/ball main bearing conversion. That would almost certainly make a difference to the end float. It's a really nice looking machine. If it was mine, I'd bite the bullet and get the end float in spec. It's worth checking whether it has a timing side main bearing conversion before any more drastic surgery, though.
BSA Service sheet 215 (rev 1956) say 0.003 (3 thou) for end float. They seem to be OK with a bit more but 20 is a lot. Advice i got was shim to 0.000-1 as its will gain a 2 thou as the bearing bed in during running in. I rebuilt my engine last year as it had other problems, it too had 20 thou end float and I was not at all happy with that. If you haven't already I would check the tightness of the drive nut as this pulls up the drive side bearing inner and shims. If its loose the bearing can spin and destroy the shims leading to a big increase in end float. Have you had a look in the sump? Some shim in there will tell if that's happened.
20 thou is way too much end float on an A10 crank I set them up at 1 thou but others will have a different view Hopefully its been built like that and its not wear on the thrust part of the timing side bush I assume you will do away with the split link in the drive chain? But sometimes simply reversing the link with the clip on the inside gives you clearance Good luck with it they are lovely motors
20 thou seems a bit excessive, I built up an a10 with an end feed conversion and it had around seven or eight thou on all new bearings. I know it's supposed to be less than that but I never had any problems. Biggest issue I had was burning oil during running in, it took an absolute age for the rings to bed in. I'd be a little bit wary of an engine that has simply had money thrown at it, just because it cost a lot doesn't mean it was put together right.
Road rocket cases - no great difference! Like the others say 20 though is a bit much. My reference quotes between 2 and 8 thou. That saying, a bit more wouldn't worry me overmuch. I don't have figured for the SRM conversion but I'm sure they won't mind someone asking. I thought it had one. Still got that leak!
I guess the main difference between a unit bsa timing side bush and a pre unit Is the unit has a two piece timing side bush And with too much end float the thrust bush can end up spinning with the crank Of course a lot can happen to these bikes over the years and pattern bushes get fitted
Yes - end float should be around 3 thou max at rebuild, but the practicle limit 'in service' is i understand around 30thou. Not worth rebuilding just for that (IMHO) - lovely bike! cheers Paul
All I can find is for the RGS & it says the mains are a ball bearing & a plain bearing. Are you going to get that axial movement from a new ball bearing without it sliding in its housing? Regarding statements about modifications to the plain bearing. They should make no difference to a top quality new ball race.
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Regarding the split link, I had the same problem with a new chain which is slightly wider than the original, so I had to fit the split link on the inside. Bit of a pain, but cured the problem. Roll on the spring Paul.
Interesting series of videos Paul. Thank you. My ancient Haynes manual says max 3 thou end float on the crank. It also says that, ideally, there should be no noticeable end float.
Good luck, Bill
As many others have said, the A10 end float specification is much the same as the A50 and A65.
Given all the other upgrades, it may have a timing side roller/ball main bearing conversion. That would almost certainly make a difference to the end float.
It's a really nice looking machine. If it was mine, I'd bite the bullet and get the end float in spec. It's worth checking whether it has a timing side main bearing conversion before any more drastic surgery, though.
Elementary my dear Watson- you have a dogged persistence!
As always,
A top notch upload.
Thank you Paul!
hi Paul you got it one more to the list top man again, not taken you long
Thank you!
BSA Service sheet 215 (rev 1956) say 0.003 (3 thou) for end float. They seem to be OK with a bit more but 20 is a lot. Advice i got was shim to 0.000-1 as its will gain a 2 thou as the bearing bed in during running in. I rebuilt my engine last year as it had other problems, it too had 20 thou end float and I was not at all happy with that. If you haven't already I would check the tightness of the drive nut as this pulls up the drive side bearing inner and shims. If its loose the bearing can spin and destroy the shims leading to a big increase in end float. Have you had a look in the sump? Some shim in there will tell if that's happened.
20 thou is way too much end float on an A10 crank
I set them up at 1 thou but others will have a different view
Hopefully its been built like that and its not wear on the thrust part of the timing side bush
I assume you will do away with the split link in the drive chain?
But sometimes simply reversing the link with the clip on the inside gives you clearance
Good luck with it they are lovely motors
20 thou seems a bit excessive, I built up an a10 with an end feed conversion and it had around seven or eight thou on all new bearings.
I know it's supposed to be less than that but I never had any problems.
Biggest issue I had was burning oil during running in, it took an absolute age for the rings to bed in.
I'd be a little bit wary of an engine that has simply had money thrown at it, just because it cost a lot doesn't mean it was put together right.
Thanks Paul.
Road rocket cases - no great difference! Like the others say 20 though is a bit much. My reference quotes between 2 and 8 thou. That saying, a bit more wouldn't worry me overmuch. I don't have figured for the SRM conversion but I'm sure they won't mind someone asking. I thought it had one. Still got that leak!
👏👍!
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I guess the main difference between a unit bsa timing side bush and a pre unit
Is the unit has a two piece timing side bush
And with too much end float the thrust bush can end up spinning with the crank
Of course a lot can happen to these bikes over the years and pattern bushes get fitted
Lucky customer
Yes - end float should be around 3 thou max at rebuild, but the practicle limit 'in service' is i understand around 30thou. Not worth rebuilding just for that (IMHO) - lovely bike! cheers Paul
All I can find is for the RGS & it says the mains are a ball bearing & a plain bearing. Are you going to get that axial movement from a new ball bearing without it sliding in its housing? Regarding statements about modifications to the plain bearing. They should make no difference to a top quality new ball race.