bad screws, put the face on the left box wrong so it pulls out screws, didnt use wood glue for joints, 3/4 ply everywhere is very heavy, the cheap real wood cover is going to cup and warp over time creating a catch on the box and not close later. You dont wanna wait for glue to dry before putting screws in. Its a great video and i'm sure many can be helped by it. Always can learn from anyone. Thanks to the creator of the video for helping us all out. It's nice to run through mistakes before you get to make ur own... I know i make plenty.
So weird. I just built cabinet for my suv and came across your video. It is scary how similar they look. Mine is very heavy with one large drawer on one side and two smaller drawers on other side. Used similar handles and also have the silver aluminum piece. My total cost was $500. I covered mine with rubber mat and have led light bars over drawers.
Thank you! I did a 3rd row seat delete on mine and used the 3rd row mounting points - M10 1.25 bolts. 4 bolts secured a carpeted platform I built. L brackets will be used to secure the box to that platform. You can see the platform at the beginning of the video, I just finished putting the bolts into it yesterday. If you have a 4Runner without 3rd row I believe there are mounting points under the back seats. There are other videos and info online re. the mounting points for those models.
Could you purchase one pair of locking slides and one pair without the lock? Using just one locking slide per drawer that way it only requires you to unlatch one instead of both to open the drawer?
Great job and great DIY video! Quick question about the drawer sliders (because I had this problem when I made a similar system years ago)... when locked in the closed position, is there enough play in the sliders back and forth that they "rattle" when going down the road (little bumps, big bumps, etc)? Thanks!
Great job. Did you utilize the tie down and put brackets on your box to keep it from moving. 6 months later, how is it holding up? Any changes you made or are you still running the same?
It’s going great, no issues! Probably going to add a refrigerator slide to the top soon. I bolted/screwed the box down to a platform I created which is bolted the the body/frame
I've just started watching your videos. And subscribed of course. You do a very good job with camera and lighting. Your expalnation of the jobs are clear and concise. I really appreciate you provide links to the parts and tools you use. I've already ordered several Amazon items. Do you have an Instagram or how to communicate with you? I too have a T4R Limited. I'll keep watching and liking. Good luck Mr. TR4 Garage!
Very nice design. Changed up the drawer slides to think it was a 260lb rated 30" soft click slides. Basically, doing similar design using much the same hardware with speaker carpeting added on top and possibly adding a rubber drawer liner. I think I may add a top unit and linear actuator in the future.
Way nice job! Should really help with organization. All you need now is a router so you can recess the divider and the drawer front and backs into the sides. But, I LOVE your job and the liner makes it look really sharp.
Super instructional, explained the math and why/what you need to measure for in a clear and detailed way. First build I’ve done and followed this video along the way. Turned out perfect.
Are you happy with the truck bed finish? Has it held up well? I have roll of upholstery but still debating using the truck bed liner. My build starts this weekend. Im in for around $280 total one set of 265lb slides one wide drawer. May add top drawer or cabinets at later date. Will add some wheelwell wing side storage areas after also.
There are videos on RUclips on how to take out the 3rd row. Once you get it out you can utilize 4 of the existing bolt holes near the hatch to run m10 1.25 bolts. Then closer to the rear 2nd row seats there are opening in the sheet metal where you can weld in m10 nuts. Once you have those nuts in you can bolt down reinforced plywood. I used 5/8th black carpeted plywood screwed into 2x2s. I used wide washers and m10 bolts to bolt this down. At this point you have what almost looks like a normal black carpeted hatch with much more room. The drawer box screwed down into the reinforced plywood platform using L brackets and sucj
Question. So you took off the foam and plastic to gain a little more space. In the part where you're doing the measurements it looks like there's a pice of 3/4 with carpet. Did you leave that in there and put the box on top or was it just there to make the measurements easier.?
Mine had the 3rd row seating so once I removed that I had more space but it was bare metal. I created a platform out of 2x2 and play wood and carpeted it before I made the drawer box. I bolted this platform to vehicle. Eventually when I made the drawer box I bolted that to the platform I had made to hold it down
@@T4Rgarage oh that makes a lot of sense now. Have you ever considered figuring out how to put the sliding tray on top of the box and have the best of both worlds. I think I'm finally gonna build this next week. I'm super pumped. I have a limited also your content is super helpful and inspiring. Thanks for the reply.
@@dizzle.1983 Thank you! I did have to tack weld in a couple nuts in behind the back seats to bolt the platform down to. There were x2 stock threaded holes I could have used behind the back seats but they were on an angle. Closer to the hatch had 4 useable level threaded bolt holes. I plan to add a sliding tray to the top for a fridge, eventually
![FendiDa Rappa - Clock Dat ft. Shamar Marco [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3NBU8KHdxYY/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best truck drawer build video I’ve seen on youtube. Great job!
bad screws, put the face on the left box wrong so it pulls out screws, didnt use wood glue for joints, 3/4 ply everywhere is very heavy, the cheap real wood cover is going to cup and warp over time creating a catch on the box and not close later. You dont wanna wait for glue to dry before putting screws in. Its a great video and i'm sure many can be helped by it. Always can learn from anyone. Thanks to the creator of the video for helping us all out. It's nice to run through mistakes before you get to make ur own... I know i make plenty.
love the sander sound effect! 👍🏻
So weird. I just built cabinet for my suv and came across your video. It is scary how similar they look. Mine is very heavy with one large drawer on one side and two smaller drawers on other side. Used similar handles and also have the silver aluminum piece. My total cost was $500. I covered mine with rubber mat and have led light bars over drawers.
Love your channel man! Super informative! Thank you!
Ver ynice detail instructions. Thanks!
Nice box!!
About how much did it cost to build this?
$635.50
Awesome video! Will definitely be going this route instead of purchasing them. How did you secure them to your vehicle in case of a crash?
Thank you! I did a 3rd row seat delete on mine and used the 3rd row mounting points - M10 1.25 bolts. 4 bolts secured a carpeted platform I built. L brackets will be used to secure the box to that platform. You can see the platform at the beginning of the video, I just finished putting the bolts into it yesterday. If you have a 4Runner without 3rd row I believe there are mounting points under the back seats. There are other videos and info online re. the mounting points for those models.
@@T4Rgarage Awesome, yes I don't have a third row so I'll check those out.
Could you purchase one pair of locking slides and one pair without the lock? Using just one locking slide per drawer that way it only requires you to unlatch one instead of both to open the drawer?
I have seen people do this. With all the weight I have in my drawers, I opted for locks on both sides
Great job and great DIY video! Quick question about the drawer sliders (because I had this problem when I made a similar system years ago)... when locked in the closed position, is there enough play in the sliders back and forth that they "rattle" when going down the road (little bumps, big bumps, etc)? Thanks!
Thank you! No rattling from mine
Great job. Did you utilize the tie down and put brackets on your box to keep it from moving. 6 months later, how is it holding up? Any changes you made or are you still running the same?
It’s going great, no issues! Probably going to add a refrigerator slide to the top soon. I bolted/screwed the box down to a platform I created which is bolted the the body/frame
I've just started watching your videos. And subscribed of course. You do a very good job with camera and lighting. Your expalnation of the jobs are clear and concise. I really appreciate you provide links to the parts and tools you use. I've already ordered several Amazon items. Do you have an Instagram or how to communicate with you? I too have a T4R Limited. I'll keep watching and liking. Good luck Mr. TR4 Garage!
Thanks so much! I don’t have an instagram page but I plan and creating one soon. I’ll drop the handle when I do. Appreciate the feedback!
Very nice design. Changed up the drawer slides to think it was a 260lb rated 30" soft click slides. Basically, doing similar design using much the same hardware with speaker carpeting added on top and possibly adding a rubber drawer liner. I think I may add a top unit and linear actuator in the future.
Do the slides come with the screws to install?
No, they did not
Way nice job! Should really help with organization. All you need now is a router so you can recess the divider and the drawer front and backs into the sides. But, I LOVE your job and the liner makes it look really sharp.
Thank you! I was tempted to purchase a router for this project
Super instructional, explained the math and why/what you need to measure for in a clear and detailed way. First build I’ve done and followed this video along the way. Turned out perfect.
Yes awesome video! Great detail and that's why I subscribe ! Where are u out of?
Does it block the spare tire access ? Thanks
No it does not
Are you happy with the truck bed finish? Has it held up well? I have roll of upholstery but still debating using the truck bed liner. My build starts this weekend. Im in for around $280 total one set of 265lb slides one wide drawer. May add top drawer or cabinets at later date. Will add some wheelwell wing side storage areas after also.
It’s held up really well. You will need more than you think to cover the box though. I used double what I initially thought
I was wondering how you did your 3rd row seat delete, im wanting to do the same thing. was the process hard?
There are videos on RUclips on how to take out the 3rd row. Once you get it out you can utilize 4 of the existing bolt holes near the hatch to run m10 1.25 bolts. Then closer to the rear 2nd row seats there are opening in the sheet metal where you can weld in m10 nuts. Once you have those nuts in you can bolt down reinforced plywood. I used 5/8th black carpeted plywood screwed into 2x2s. I used wide washers and m10 bolts to bolt this down. At this point you have what almost looks like a normal black carpeted hatch with much more room. The drawer box screwed down into the reinforced plywood platform using L brackets and sucj
You definitely inspired me to tackle a version of this for myself
Happy to hear that! It worked out great and a recent 13 day overland/road trip that we did
How is that raptor liner holding up I know some of those don't have as much durability compared to professional bedliner
@@dizzle.1983 it really good 👍🏼 make sure you use the two part for the best results
@T4R Garage absolutely .will do
Question. So you took off the foam and plastic to gain a little more space. In the part where you're doing the measurements it looks like there's a pice of 3/4 with carpet. Did you leave that in there and put the box on top or was it just there to make the measurements easier.?
Mine had the 3rd row seating so once I removed that I had more space but it was bare metal. I created a platform out of 2x2 and play wood and carpeted it before I made the drawer box. I bolted this platform to vehicle. Eventually when I made the drawer box I bolted that to the platform I had made to hold it down
@@T4Rgarage oh that makes a lot of sense now. Have you ever considered figuring out how to put the sliding tray on top of the box and have the best of both worlds. I think I'm finally gonna build this next week. I'm super pumped. I have a limited also your content is super helpful and inspiring. Thanks for the reply.
@@dizzle.1983 Thank you! I did have to tack weld in a couple nuts in behind the back seats to bolt the platform down to. There were x2 stock threaded holes I could have used behind the back seats but they were on an angle. Closer to the hatch had 4 useable level threaded bolt holes. I plan to add a sliding tray to the top for a fridge, eventually
Hi friends, I am leaving this message to check if you wanna test a T-style radio of 4runner. PM me if you are interested. Thanks!