I've done alignments for twenty years. I want to add a few things. First: This will only adjust total toe. Not camber or caster. But total toe is the biggest tire wearing angle. Second: Make sure the car not jacked up(normal ride height when making adjustments). You can scribe a line with chalk while rotating the tires to get a more accurate measurement. Third: After adjusting this way, the steering wheel will likely be crooked. To get it straight, test drive it. Which every way the steering wheel is off, adjust BOTH wheels in that direction EQUALLY(Same number of turns on the tie rods. One side tightened in, the other loosened out). In other words, if the steering wheel is to the left, adjust the wheels to the left. This will take some trial and error. After the steering wheel is straight, it wouldn't hurt to recheck your total toe.
@@ChippinFlint sometimes, sometimes not. I've had vehicles that didn't pull to one side and still toe wore out tires on the corners. Trucks are notorious for that, especially 4wd with big tires. Smaller tires are more noticeable for pulling than larger tires are, plus they'll wear wrong much faster. It really depends on the vehicle and how far off the toe is.
This is exactly what I was talking about. You can't know which specific tire is out of alignment with this method. That's where the "string method" comes into play. I did something similar to this today and got the readings pretty much dead on with specs. But my steering wheel wasn't straight. Obviously I could have probably kept going and readjusted both wheels for how far it was out of alignment and have probably gotten it in spec... but I just ended up taking it to a shop. No time for it... At least now I have a basis when changing parts to know which wheel is out of alignment.
never align a car with the suspension hanging. the angles change with the height. remember this: castor>camber>toe. one affects the next. so if the suspension is hanging, its sure to be at an extreme (+) camber. toe getting adjusted at this point is mostly useless. as soon as vehicle is lowered to normal ride height the camber goes (-) and throws off the toe angle. the affect will vary per vehicle depending on the locations of the control arms and tie rods, so this method can still help, but i wouldnt trust it.
It's interesting, but I need to clarify the important one. Is it alienated on one side first and then the other side? Because if the car is misaligned on both sides, I think you have to do the same procedure on both tires. clarify me please.
the video is actually not as bad as people are acting like it is... ... the only thing is that you want the vehicle at a normal ride height when adjusting toe in... if your car is eating tires.. this will probably help you out... i would of jacked it up to check the play and inspect for loose parts... then set it back down to adjust toe in
I went to the shop and got alignment done few days ago, drove the car couple times and today noticed there is some clanking sound when I pull in/out of parking lot. I though I might have hit a cola can or something but didn't see anything. COuld it be the shop forgot to tighten something or something else, or maybe it's nothing, maybe I hit a cola can in the rear and didn't see it. car seems to drive fine. Think I heard the sound in 2 difference occasions
You don't 😂. Unless it's something obvious like you changed a tie rod on one side or something similar. For an issue like this you would use the string method since each side is independent of each other. Logically though you would think measuring straight across if the measurements are in spec that the wheels are straight, but when I did this that didn't seem to be the case (Yes my steering wheel was off, but it was locked in place while adjusting, I could have probably kept going and got the steering wheel straight but it would have take all day test driving and repeating). You would also have to have the tape measure 100% straight to account for the wheels slightly turning.
Never lift your car when you do this it will pull the wheels apart and make the setup look like it is towards toe out so when you change it and lower the car to the ground you will get a overcompensated toe in setup. What you do is you do it on the ground after you push the car forward a couple of meters.
Yes, my boss had pads to dry front wheels on,, jack up car,, paint a line of paint on the center of the tire, move your pointer to tire spin tire, spin tire,, scribe a line in paint while it is still wet,, set your car back down on the movable pads, set your toe in bar under car, measure front and rear of tire,, with toe in bar, perfect!! No computers to worry if their calibrated, and we had a bubble magnetic attachment that would center on front brake disc, after you pulled the grease cap off, perfect, you always knew it was right!!! Other alignment shop had latest computer fixed alignment gear , and a new computer tire balancer,, the we never new if it was calibrated,, I remember the techs would come to calibrate, both tools,, but we never knew if they were right or not! The old mechanic had tire balancer would work off a strobe spark that was all mechanical,, no wondering if your tire balancer was working correctly,, the old man mechanic had those tools,,, they were always right!! Someone went backwards there when thought they were going forwards with Hi-Tech computer stuff,!!! The old guy knew his automatic transmissions too,, !!! Brake jobs, had his own home to hone wheel cyli ders,, own brake lathes,, turn out excellent brake jobs for just over hundred dollars,, every day!! Engine rebuilds,, expanded pistons, put rings and bearings, valve jobs on well cleaned original engine parts,,, I would tune up those engines a year or so later,, we always took a compression test,,, those engines were as good as new,,, !!! His prices were incredibly reasonable,!! Those were all still American cars,, I don't know if new cars can be rebuilt like that anymore,, The Old Mechanic had it down!!!
It is clearly the question. What I as non-mechanic, just a technician could come up with is check by a thtead and the funny cone at the end, whatever it is called, and see which tire shows bigger difference,but as someone mentioned by tires as well, if they are older.
Simple pull your measurement get the reading. Front of wheel. Back of wheel. Loosen. Both. Tyrod nuts. If the back of the wheel. Measurements are wider. Than the front. Adjust. Both tyrods in. If the front measurement is wider. Adjust both tyrods out. Till. Measurements are the same. Don't jack up. Vehicle
All accurate wheel alignments are done with all wheels on the ground, your method would work done without jacking the car, doing the cross measurements so long as you mark equal distances from centre of hub, then do cross measurements. I align cars for Bridgestone and we never lift cars wheels off ground to align.
I did mine with strings on both sides, towed both sides 2 millimeter in and I'm driving for years like that with no problems, tires are wearing out even.
@@toneybatts1972 put the steering wheel in the center position and check which side needs the adjustment, if you're lucky it can be on one side only, in most cases it's both sides.
Since the track rod on the left wheel was loosened and adjusted accordingly, it is pressumed that the track rod of the right wheel is perfectly aligned! Is this right?
Never attempt to do wheel alignment with the car jacked up. You can see from the angle of the tie rods that jacking the car greatly affects the toe-in so if you adjust for the correct toe-in with the car jacked up, you will have grossly inaccurate toe-in with weight on wheels.
I've done something similar to this. The issue is you don't know which wheel is out of alignment. At some point just adjusting one side could make the measurements within spec, but the wheels could still be turned if the steering wheel is straight. Both sides have to be adjusted to come within spec, which this didn't explain. You can't just do one side, unless by chance you get lucky and that one side is the one out of spec. Obviously if you changed a tie rod or another suspension component on one side you already know which side is out of alignment.
Jacking up the vehicle is the worst mistake to adjust wheel alignment Vehicle must be on the floor driven forward a short distance to get it laiden When you jack the car up you changing the geometry completely
Ok so you just align one wheel. How do I know it wasn't the other one who was hooked? Could it be both ????? and since you are just aligning one side then your steering wheel will probably be crooked
Measure the center of the rear wheels and then the front. Toe it in according to spec. Center the steering wheel counting the turns from full left to full right. Stop in the middle. Get OTC steering wheel holder or have someone to hold it. Check steering parts for wear first. Replace the whole rack unit with outter tie rods.
Need to do it at ride height like it is when it does down the road when you jack it up the alignment angle's change. Not sure why you would do videos if you don't know what your going?
This DIY repair quite good for temproary use until you visiting the alignment shop with the alignment machine,it's quite usefull after changing the Tie rod end or the whole stearing rack.....better than nothing,huhuhu......even the hangging not really accurate to alignment....anywany it was nice video......good job
mind you it can be done like that, yes it will align wheels but some cars have a bit toe in or toe out. Find out the info for your vehicle and you can use some torpedo levels for add accurcy
My tires are so toed in the inside is worn smooth while the outside looks still looks newer. This is the first alignment video I've seen that I feel like trying. Thanks.
ooh,what a work,,this days there is a lot of technology computerized wheel alignment ,,but its good when practiced at home, you can do it by yourselve,anyway its a good video
Video production tips: Don't waste 60 seconds showing us how to do something and then waste another 60 seconds to show us the same thing on the other side. This 10 minute video should have been edited down to about 4 minutes. Technical Tip: Don't make a video that shows people how to do something the wrong way.
The wheels must have all the weight the frontpart have and the bakes must be on and the wheels must been lock , i use a wire from the rear part of the car too the front of the car and chek the difrent of frontwhel of 180 grades
Podesavanje se ne moze precizno uraditi ako je auto na dizalici! Podesavanje se mora izvrsiti kada je vozilo na tockovima znaci ne sme biti podignuto na dizalici zato sto se smanji medjuosovinski raspon i obavezno mora biti na rotirajucim plocama za centriranje trapa pa tek onda uraditi podesavanje!
The measurement must betaken with the front wheels in their normal driving position with the full weight of the car on them, taking measurements with the car jacked up is totally pointless
i can answer that for you, when siting in your car, if your staring wheel is slightly down to the right side that's the ps, well, this means that your right passengers side wheel is slightly toe in, and if you was to toe it out just a little bit at a time it would make your staring wheel strait , and the same going for the left side that's the drivers side wheel, if your staring wheel is slightly down to wards the left will siting in your car, this do mean that the drivers side wheel is toe in , and it would have to be slightly adjusted and toe out slightly st make your staring wheel be centered with the front wheels, and always have a close look at the front tires for tire ware, if the ware is on the inside, then you have a toe out, and if the ware is on the outer side of the tire, then sir, you have a toe in , and we cant align the right side of the car from the left wheel, all that will do is make it toe out and ware one tire right out on the in side , and some time when aligning with a string, our anything, you can get your wheel of 2 far to one side, you can pretty well tell where your wheels are pointing by checking for tire scuff and where it's might be scuffing of rubber of the tires, and the staring wheel tell the rest sir. and if you do this method along with the ropie poppy then you are all set, good luck happy driving , i have worked around cars for over 50 years and i pretty well know where the wheels are going to point when i turn the inner tire rod lol
its not correct now if it is front wheel drive car, and also not correct if rear wheel drive car, always toe-out front wheel drive and toe.in when rear wheel drive car
Yup, guess they forgot to inform us of the ever critical part of lowering the vehicle to give a "TRUE" measurement. I've witnessed worse. Aaah, ...it's the TUBE.
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I've done alignments for twenty years. I want to add a few things.
First: This will only adjust total toe. Not camber or caster. But total toe is the biggest tire wearing angle.
Second: Make sure the car not jacked up(normal ride height when making adjustments). You can scribe a line with chalk while rotating the tires to get a more accurate measurement.
Third: After adjusting this way, the steering wheel will likely be crooked. To get it straight, test drive it. Which every way the steering wheel is off, adjust BOTH wheels in that direction EQUALLY(Same number of turns on the tie rods. One side tightened in, the other loosened out). In other words, if the steering wheel is to the left, adjust the wheels to the left. This will take some trial and error. After the steering wheel is straight, it wouldn't hurt to recheck your total toe.
thank you so much sir..u saved me
Neat idea, but which wheel is actually too far out or which is too far in? Only way you can know that is comparing them with the rear wheels.
Or driving. If it pulls to one direction; check the toe. You could have toe in on one side and toe out on the other.
@@ChippinFlint sometimes, sometimes not. I've had vehicles that didn't pull to one side and still toe wore out tires on the corners. Trucks are notorious for that, especially 4wd with big tires. Smaller tires are more noticeable for pulling than larger tires are, plus they'll wear wrong much faster. It really depends on the vehicle and how far off the toe is.
This is exactly what I was talking about. You can't know which specific tire is out of alignment with this method. That's where the "string method" comes into play. I did something similar to this today and got the readings pretty much dead on with specs. But my steering wheel wasn't straight. Obviously I could have probably kept going and readjusted both wheels for how far it was out of alignment and have probably gotten it in spec... but I just ended up taking it to a shop. No time for it... At least now I have a basis when changing parts to know which wheel is out of alignment.
How do you determine which side to adjust?
@B B when you say steering sits to the right or steering sits to the left are you referring to the steering wheel or the direction the car pulls?
never align a car with the suspension hanging. the angles change with the height. remember this: castor>camber>toe. one affects the next. so if the suspension is hanging, its sure to be at an extreme (+) camber. toe getting adjusted at this point is mostly useless. as soon as vehicle is lowered to normal ride height the camber goes (-) and throws off the toe angle. the affect will vary per vehicle depending on the locations of the control arms and tie rods, so this method can still help, but i wouldnt trust it.
True👌
New alignment machine lift the car
It's interesting, but I need to clarify the important one. Is it alienated on one side first and then the other side? Because if the car is misaligned on both sides, I think you have to do the same procedure on both tires. clarify me please.
the video is actually not as bad as people are acting like it is... ... the only thing is that you want the vehicle at a normal ride height when adjusting toe in... if your car is eating tires.. this will probably help you out... i would of jacked it up to check the play and inspect for loose parts... then set it back down to adjust toe in
I went to the shop and got alignment done few days ago, drove the car couple times and today noticed there is some clanking sound when I pull in/out of parking lot. I though I might have hit a cola can or something but didn't see anything. COuld it be the shop forgot to tighten something or something else, or maybe it's nothing, maybe I hit a cola can in the rear and didn't see it. car seems to drive fine. Think I heard the sound in 2 difference occasions
Ow....I find difficulties of what you're doing sir..
It is easier to use an string which is çonnected the outer part of the tire of rear and front..
O
Thanks didi
Suman Mondal
Toe in 1/8" tread to tread,worked for 40 yrs. Inertia
how do we know which one of the left or right need to adjust the tie rod end?
You don't 😂. Unless it's something obvious like you changed a tie rod on one side or something similar. For an issue like this you would use the string method since each side is independent of each other. Logically though you would think measuring straight across if the measurements are in spec that the wheels are straight, but when I did this that didn't seem to be the case (Yes my steering wheel was off, but it was locked in place while adjusting, I could have probably kept going and got the steering wheel straight but it would have take all day test driving and repeating). You would also have to have the tape measure 100% straight to account for the wheels slightly turning.
Never lift your car when you do this it will pull the wheels apart and make the setup look like it is towards toe out so when you change it and lower the car to the ground you will get a overcompensated toe in setup. What you do is you do it on the ground after you push the car forward a couple of meters.
Yep
Yes
Yes, my boss had pads to dry front wheels on,, jack up car,, paint a line of paint on the center of the tire, move your pointer to tire spin tire, spin tire,, scribe a line in paint while it is still wet,, set your car back down on the movable pads, set your toe in bar under car, measure front and rear of tire,, with toe in bar, perfect!! No computers to worry if their calibrated, and we had a bubble magnetic attachment that would center on front brake disc, after you pulled the grease cap off, perfect, you always knew it was right!!! Other alignment shop had latest computer fixed alignment gear , and a new computer tire balancer,, the we never new if it was calibrated,, I remember the techs would come to calibrate, both tools,, but we never knew if they were right or not! The old mechanic had tire balancer would work off a strobe spark that was all mechanical,, no wondering if your tire balancer was working correctly,, the old man mechanic had those tools,,, they were always right!! Someone went backwards there when thought they were going forwards with Hi-Tech computer stuff,!!! The old guy knew his automatic transmissions too,, !!! Brake jobs, had his own home to hone wheel cyli ders,, own brake lathes,, turn out excellent brake jobs for just over hundred dollars,, every day!! Engine rebuilds,, expanded pistons, put rings and bearings, valve jobs on well cleaned original engine parts,,, I would tune up those engines a year or so later,, we always took a compression test,,, those engines were as good as new,,, !!! His prices were incredibly reasonable,!! Those were all still American cars,, I don't know if new cars can be rebuilt like that anymore,, The Old Mechanic had it down!!!
I used the back tires and some string to align the front.
That's the way I do it too
That way never fails or measure center of the tire in the rear and match the front
how do you know which side to do the track rod adjustment?
nuj8ū8nm
By feeling..hehehe
My best guess is,the tire that you are having problems.
It is clearly the question. What I as non-mechanic, just a technician could come up with is check by a thtead and the funny cone at the end, whatever it is called, and see which tire shows bigger difference,but as someone mentioned by tires as well, if they are older.
Simple pull your measurement get the reading. Front of wheel. Back of wheel. Loosen. Both. Tyrod nuts. If the back of the wheel. Measurements are wider. Than the front. Adjust. Both tyrods in. If the front measurement is wider. Adjust both tyrods out. Till. Measurements are the same. Don't jack up. Vehicle
All accurate wheel alignments are done with all wheels on the ground, your method would work done without jacking the car, doing the cross measurements so long as you mark equal distances from centre of hub, then do cross measurements. I align cars for Bridgestone and we never lift cars wheels off ground to align.
Actually, you can do 4 wheel alignment with the car jacked up nowadays. The alignment machine compensates for the sag.
@@19NinetyUK Ya right
@@19NinetyUK correct alignment these days are lifted
Does it matter which side you adjust the tie rod on?
Thanks!
Due to wheel diameter numbers will vary depending on where measurement is taken. Aren't factory specs referenced to spindle center?
The tie rod should be adjusted both side equally on either side for correct alignment
I did mine with strings on both sides, towed both sides 2 millimeter in and I'm driving for years like that with no problems, tires are wearing out even.
Does it matter which side you adjust the tie rod
Does it matter what side you adjust the tie rod on?
@@Theworldisforent ok...dont be an a hole
@@toneybatts1972 put the steering wheel in the center position and check which side needs the adjustment, if you're lucky it can be on one side only, in most cases it's both sides.
Since the track rod on the left wheel was loosened and adjusted accordingly, it is pressumed that the track rod of the right wheel is perfectly aligned! Is this right?
Ok my trailer is pulling to the right must I loosen the right side on the springs and move it forward or backwards to make it run stait
Is it not the alignment of front tire are independent at each other?
i would check if toe is correct after you put car on the ground also
cannot do it with this method,because of the engine oil pan; it is on the way!
This is only toe adjust.. question no.1 how can we decide which side toe adjust to be done?
And what about camber and caster adjust???
but at least they give you like Basic ideas like how you do it
Mcpherson strut i think toe adjusted only
ERINA TOWING SERVICES good Jobs
You divide in two the difference and adjust both sides.
look for bad Tyre wear to determine which side.
Liked it. Very easy very nicely explained thanks.
its ok but wich one tire the targit for seeting ,only one tire are two
Probably the best most simple video, hell yeah
I the string wheel is the most accurate or us the gutter bash wheels on gutter works good i
Never attempt to do wheel alignment with the car jacked up. You can see from the angle of the tie rods that jacking the car greatly affects the toe-in so if you adjust for the correct toe-in with the car jacked up, you will have grossly inaccurate toe-in with weight on wheels.
Does it matter what side you adjust the tie rod on?
How do you know which of the 2 wheels I need move?
They don't know, they should have put a line from the back of the rear wheels, that's the only way to know which front wheel needs to be adjusted
Mike Harris yes you are right, but before it you need to make sure the back wheels are aligned. I guess. I don’t know about it.
Yes correct
Thanks very much and nice job 🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👍👍
are you only turning one steering wheel? or on the other side too? because you can't see it in the video
i just did my truck with fish line and string im right on the money 1/6 th toe in and my steering wheel is perfect
0000
I've done something similar to this. The issue is you don't know which wheel is out of alignment. At some point just adjusting one side could make the measurements within spec, but the wheels could still be turned if the steering wheel is straight. Both sides have to be adjusted to come within spec, which this didn't explain. You can't just do one side, unless by chance you get lucky and that one side is the one out of spec. Obviously if you changed a tie rod or another suspension component on one side you already know which side is out of alignment.
Dies it matter which side that you adjust the tie rod on?
Its ok but wich tire is a wrong lift or right
Jacking up the vehicle is the worst mistake to adjust wheel alignment
Vehicle must be on the floor driven forward a short distance to get it laiden
When you jack the car up you changing the geometry completely
very good and best idea 👏👏👏👍💪💪
Ok so you just align one wheel. How do I know it wasn't the other one who was hooked? Could it be both ????? and since you are just aligning one side then your steering wheel will probably be crooked
Driverside rear tire is overinflated; can see daylight on either side of a rail of tread touching the pavement.
Measure the center of the rear wheels and then the front. Toe it in according to spec. Center the steering wheel counting the turns from full left to full right. Stop in the middle. Get OTC steering wheel holder or have someone to hold it. Check steering parts for wear first. Replace the whole rack unit with outter tie rods.
Need to do it at ride height like it is when it does down the road when you jack it up the alignment angle's change. Not sure why you would do videos if you don't know what your going?
How do you know which side to do
This DIY repair quite good for temproary use until you visiting the alignment shop with the alignment machine,it's quite usefull after changing the Tie rod end or the whole stearing rack.....better than nothing,huhuhu......even the hangging not really accurate to alignment....anywany it was nice video......good job
l love ingenuity and people who adapt great video!!
How to identify which tyre to be adjust
How do you know which side fault? Maybe right side fault you adjusting left side.
Still No. answer for this particular question . . .
We will wait for answers
The wheel with the biggest deviation should be adjusted first.
Perfecto saludos desde 🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷
mind you it can be done like that, yes it will align wheels but some cars have a bit toe in or toe out. Find out the info for your vehicle and you can use some torpedo levels for add accurcy
My tires are so toed in the inside is worn smooth while the outside looks still looks newer. This is the first alignment video I've seen that I feel like trying. Thanks.
that's out not in
Don't try this, the vehicle needs to be on the ground, otherwise the the weight of the tires will pull downward while suspended.
don't try like this fuck method
Indeed inside wearing of the tyres is caused by wheels being toed out !!!!!
...... Hence the song American idiot. Wearing on insides is caused by too much negative camber, not toe, which this guy also didnt show thank goodness
Why dont you use cable ties insted of wire???
very good video !!! thanks .. its good to see someone that knows what they are doing ,, great mechanic !!
Tutobuild,
Very basic but many thanks
dlaczego nie podkladsz gumy pod podnosnik , przeciez odzierasz izolacje podlogi , takich magikow omijac nalezy z daleka
not correct method if one side difference is three milli and other side one then this will go wrong
Perfect...it really helped
Nissan cwa 260
Does it matter what side you adjust the tie rod on?
Thanks foe the information. It very useful specially after changing the tie end rods. Car on full weight.
Does it matter what side you adjust the tie rod on?
Good effort , thanks for sharing .
ooh,what a work,,this days there is a lot of technology computerized wheel alignment ,,but its good when practiced at home, you can do it by yourselve,anyway its a good video
STRING!
From back tyres to front. Easy!
Bad info , suppose to do this with the weight of the vehicle on the ground.
Video production tips: Don't waste 60 seconds showing us how to do something and then waste another 60 seconds to show us the same thing on the other side. This 10 minute video should have been edited down to about 4 minutes. Technical Tip: Don't make a video that shows people how to do something the wrong way.
I wonder if I should try this ?
Spokan english lesan
If we stay in africa or cuba, probably they use this method.
This simple, and solve many situations...
Good fu**ing video I actually did it using this video an it helped car rides hella better!!!
The wheels must have all the weight the frontpart have and the bakes must be on and the wheels must been lock , i use a wire from the rear part of the car too the front of the car and chek the difrent of frontwhel of 180 grades
Weight don't have to be on the front, I use a rope just as you said never had a problem plus new alignment machine lift the car off it's wheels
Your job is correct but you have to correct the using level listed grond level
On ground, both sides plus steering wheel locked by seat belts will give much more accurate result.
The measurement at front is supposed to be 1 millemetre less. Half mill in on either side
Podesavanje se ne moze precizno uraditi ako je auto na dizalici! Podesavanje se mora izvrsiti kada je vozilo na tockovima znaci ne sme biti podignuto na dizalici zato sto se smanji medjuosovinski raspon i obavezno mora biti na rotirajucim plocama za centriranje trapa pa tek onda uraditi podesavanje!
How most people survive past 40 without catastrophic injuries is beyond me, lol.
I've taken more chances than MOST... and I'm amazingly still (mostly) in one piece! It's a MIRACLE!
Now are the front wheels in line with the rear wheels?? You didn't check that part!
I've got a Chevy 4x4 and the rear tires aren't as far apart as the front tires.
this is the most complicated video I ever see in my life
the wood should be center of the hub !!! just saying
Eh, how did he know based on those measurements, which side to adjust?
First, start adjusting the wheel with the biggest deviation, I suppose.
With this method, how do you know which wheel to adjust? 😆😂
Giatzou I concur with you😂
Count the tie rod threads on both sides .
The measurement must betaken with the front wheels in their normal driving position with the full weight of the car on them, taking measurements with the car jacked up is totally pointless
The hard part would be finding 2 sticks that are straight.
Awesome! Thankyou
Never measure off of the tire run a string back to front and measure of of the hubs.
Nice clip + nice idea!!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!!! :]
didn't check steering wheel and which wheel is out, should have mentioned a little more info.
i can answer that for you, when siting in your car, if your staring wheel is slightly down to the right side that's the ps, well, this means that your right passengers side wheel is slightly toe in, and if you was to toe it out just a little bit at a time it would make your staring wheel strait , and the same going for the left side that's the drivers side wheel, if your staring wheel is slightly down to wards the left will siting in your car, this do mean that the drivers side wheel is toe in , and it would have to be slightly adjusted and toe out slightly st make your staring wheel be centered with the front wheels, and always have a close look at the front tires for tire ware, if the ware is on the inside, then you have a toe out, and if the ware is on the outer side of the tire, then sir, you have a toe in , and we cant align the right side of the car from the left wheel, all that will do is make it toe out and ware one tire right out on the in side , and some time when aligning with a string, our anything, you can get your wheel of 2 far to one side, you can pretty well tell where your wheels are pointing by checking for tire scuff and where it's might be scuffing of rubber of the tires, and the staring wheel tell the rest sir. and if you do this method along with the ropie poppy then you are all set, good luck happy driving , i have worked around cars for over 50 years and i pretty well know where the wheels are going to point when i turn the inner tire rod lol
Thnks for the video it really helps
Good manual practice.
How you know which side is toe out or in?
Just use two measuring tapes.
Before computerised wheel alignment was done this way.
Similar but not quite like this....very complicated way to only adjust toe, as everyone else has said use a rope or a string.
Thanx this is good.
Only string can make a perfect toe in toe out
sir 4af corolla grasing front and rear
No good if you get a part of the tyre with a bulge if the wood sits on it, throws it way out plus it should be done with the car on the ground anyway
Very good
yes remove the jack stands before you drive
its not correct now if it is front wheel drive car, and also not correct if rear wheel drive car, always toe-out front wheel drive and toe.in when rear wheel drive car
It's a good method just to be in the ball park, but after doing this it is necessary to take the vehicle to a professional.
Next replace and install matching hub caps
Please stop talking he knows what he doing an old school a way 🚙🚙🚙
Ole skewl way is on the ground, not in the air!
Go and buy some hub caps that match and stop stealing from neighbors!😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
good try but the full weight of the car must be on the ground. you've jacked it up so that you have clearance for your tape measure beneath haha.
weight on the ground please
Yup, guess they forgot to inform us of the ever critical part of lowering the vehicle to give a "TRUE" measurement. I've witnessed worse. Aaah, ...it's the TUBE.
Well said my friend and so true
Very rough setting, tyres won't last long.
So easy, even a caveman can do it.