I don't know about 100%, but this a great video, including that the rest of world doesn't understand inchs (and you covered that) and this method will get you very close to spec
Interesting way to truly measure using the tire ribs themselves. I have seen tons of such videos that they use the sidewalls of the tires from the outside. And I always wonder if those sidewalls are the best idea knowing they can vary somewhat. Thumbs Up!
Cars usually pull to the right when you drive them on the right side of a crowned road. You have to drive it down the middle, both directions to know if it’s due to the car or the road.
@@joeculver6227 that's why we set the caster ahead on right side and adjust camber for the crown,when I was doing alignment we had to compensate for very heavy people driving the car solo also,tricks of the trade,but there's a lot of tricks
Yeah this is the way to do it. I never did an alignment before and watched videos of people doing all this crazy stuff with strings and lasers, but I learned to do layout in construction its like all you need is a few lines...
No comment mentioned it but you can get a pull either to the right or left on a vehicle by more factors than just wheel alignment. The most common and easiest to correct is TIRE PRESSURE . The next factor is Tire Size. If you have more wear on one tire it can lead to a pull to one side or the other just as the Air Pressure. With a close alignment as yours you might go ahead and check those two factors first. The next factor might involve worn bushings either in your strut or the bottom swing arm. If you can get a nice improvement on your alignment then by all means go for it. A follow-up video on tire wear might be valuable down the road.
Thanks for the input, but this is a video about how to do a wheel alignment. Not how to do a wheel alignment on a car with worn out tires for bad control arms or ball joints, all the work was done on the car tie rods, new tires and then the alignment was the last thing. But yes of course tire pressure and a worn out bushing will throw the alignment off and make it alignable.
You cannot call it a wheel alignment when the only thing you measure is front wheel toe in/out. You must check and adjust camber and caster then you can adjust toe last
Sure it does its right Rhee in your video. The 2 bolt that attach the strut to the steering knuckle are are where you can adjust the camber. And it also possible to adjust the caster
@@lefty-bm6xs no it's just a nut and bolt, it's not like the older cars where it had oval shaped washers attached to it moving the camber positive to negative, these newer cars just have round holes, they are alined at factory and there's no changing it. Anyways no point to argue, next time you're working on something newer take a look. 👀
45 years as auto mechanic, done thousands of alignments. There is usually 1 degree of camber play in the knuckle to strut connection. If you don't believe it lossen both bolts and push in and out on the tire just saying don't call it an alignment your just doing the last step.
I would say it's not an alignment bcs it doesn't take into consideration the rear tires at all, and that all 4 tires are pointed in the same direction instead of crabwalking.
Your measurements are a bit off, but you've accomplished the job. If you had 60-3/16" front and back and then toed out the front left wheel, its not possible for the front measurement to then be 60-2/16" and the back 60-1/16". If that were true you would've effectively brought your wheels closer together. Still, job is done, but a mathematical error.
Yeah I see what you're saying, somehow that's what always ends up happening, can't make sense of it either, but the tires don't wear and it seems to be set right.
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I don't know about 100%, but this a great video, including that the rest of world doesn't understand inchs (and you covered that) and this method will get you very close to spec
Best vid I seen yet for doing a diy Alignment.👍
Thanks!
Thanks really appreciate it
Interesting way to truly measure using the tire ribs themselves. I have seen tons of such videos that they use the sidewalls of the tires from the outside. And I always wonder if those sidewalls are the best idea knowing they can vary somewhat. Thumbs Up!
Absolutely!!! the best video I've seen since watching videos over an over again this makes the most logical since .
Nice video to learn and to check the alignment DIY. Thanks
Cars usually pull to the right when you drive them on the right side of a crowned road. You have to drive it down the middle, both directions to know if it’s due to the car or the road.
Yeah I mentioned that in the video and drove in the middle of the road
@@joeculver6227 that's why we set the caster ahead on right side and adjust camber for the crown,when I was doing alignment we had to compensate for very heavy people driving the car solo also,tricks of the trade,but there's a lot of tricks
Yeah this is the way to do it. I never did an alignment before and watched videos of people doing all this crazy stuff with strings and lasers, but I learned to do layout in construction its like all you need is a few lines...
Yeah it works awesome
Great Video, now i understand how it works...greetings from germany...Tom
Thanks for the feedback
Nice job, thanks!
Thanks 🙏🏻
How about all wheel drive ? Toe in or out
No comment mentioned it but you can get a pull either to the right or left on a vehicle by more factors than just wheel alignment. The most common and easiest to correct is TIRE PRESSURE . The next factor is Tire Size. If you have more wear on one tire it can lead to a pull to one side or the other just as the Air Pressure. With a close alignment as yours you might go ahead and check those two factors first. The next factor might involve worn bushings either in your strut or the bottom swing arm. If you can get a nice improvement on your alignment then by all means go for it. A follow-up video on tire wear might be valuable down the road.
Thanks for the input, but this is a video about how to do a wheel alignment. Not how to do a wheel alignment on a car with worn out tires for bad control arms or ball joints, all the work was done on the car tie rods, new tires and then the alignment was the last thing. But yes of course tire pressure and a worn out bushing will throw the alignment off and make it alignable.
You cannot call it a wheel alignment when the only thing you measure is front wheel toe in/out. You must check and adjust camber and caster then you can adjust toe last
This car doesn't have camper or caster alignment, most newer cars don't.
Thanks for watching
Sure it does its right Rhee in your video. The 2 bolt that attach the strut to the steering knuckle are are where you can adjust the camber. And it also possible to adjust the caster
@@lefty-bm6xs no it's just a nut and bolt, it's not like the older cars where it had oval shaped washers attached to it moving the camber positive to negative, these newer cars just have round holes, they are alined at factory and there's no changing it.
Anyways no point to argue, next time you're working on something newer take a look. 👀
45 years as auto mechanic, done thousands of alignments. There is usually 1 degree of camber play in the knuckle to strut connection. If you don't believe it lossen both bolts and push in and out on the tire just saying don't call it an alignment your just doing the last step.
I would say it's not an alignment bcs it doesn't take into consideration the rear tires at all, and that all 4 tires are pointed in the same direction instead of crabwalking.
Good info
Appreciate it
What size of wood did you use?
Please post dimensions. Thanks.
It's just a 2 x 4 from a lumber store
I think it was 8 feet long
@@ProblemSolverGarage thanks so much.
@@ProblemSolverGarage awesome!
lol
Dude how do you get under a car that low?
You could always drive it onto some boards
You skip more than a few lunches...
@@ProblemSolverGarage thanks
@@DL101ca you’re a joke
F 150 2007 truck. Alignment off 4/16 inch. I cannot break loose lock nut after much trying. Any suggestion?
Yes watch the Tie rod video there's a link at the end of this video.
Yes. replace with a new one or remove and try to loosen it outside with a vice and a good wrench if you want to save some money.
heat
@@walts9930 Yes, heat with a burner. But it's so cheap that it's not even worth trying.
That's perfect,1/8 toed out,on a front wheel is ok , because on acceleration it will toe in,1/6 is preferred,toe in will not cause a pull
Yep, RWD you do toe in 1/16 as the push will spread the tires apart.
Can't you just count the threads?
No
Your measurements are a bit off, but you've accomplished the job. If you had 60-3/16" front and back and then toed out the front left wheel, its not possible for the front measurement to then be 60-2/16" and the back 60-1/16". If that were true you would've effectively brought your wheels closer together. Still, job is done, but a mathematical error.
Yeah I see what you're saying, somehow that's what always ends up happening, can't make sense of it either, but the tires don't wear and it seems to be set right.
@ProblemSolverGarage at the end of the day that is what matters.