Here is the link for the new BMW 2013 and above electronic wastegate actuator shown in video: amzn.to/3BE13kH And A link for the older style wastegate for BMW 2012 and before: amzn.to/4eEjDYA
Thank you brotha. Great job attempting to learn a skill. You got this. You get stuck just comment below and ill answer. Let us know your results in the comments. Side note I just uploaded a rotor and break upgrade video if you would like to broaden your mechanical skills (ruclips.net/video/tUIG-o7v4bA/видео.htmlsi=iY7_nKwI1LX1Fl1M)
Sounds like you are at the end of the job 🎉 . It will take 50-100 miles driving time to clear an engine code. 9/10 times, these codes are cleared by hooking up diagnostics ECU device and clearing the codes that way. Take it to neighborhood auto part store for they can do that for you or the poor mans way. The old-school trick of draining power from a car’s ECU (Electronic Control Unit) using a resistor typically involves using an ohm resistor to discharge residual electrical charge from the ECU after the battery is disconnected. This is done to reset the ECU or clear fault codes without using a scanner. Here’s a common method: 1. Disconnect the battery: Remove both the positive and negative terminals from the car battery to cut power to the ECU. 2. Install the resistor: Use a resistor (often a 10-ohm, 1-watt resistor) and connect it between the disconnected battery terminals. The resistor allows for a controlled discharge of any residual energy in the ECU and other systems. This method is safer than directly shorting the terminals. 3. Wait for a few minutes: Leave the resistor in place for about 10-30 minutes to ensure that all power has drained from the system. 4. Reconnect the battery: After sufficient time has passed, remove the resistor and reconnect the battery terminals. This procedure can reset the ECU, clearing certain fault codes or returning adaptive learning systems (such as fuel trims and transmission shift patterns) to factory settings. Note: These methods are used at your own risk, and it is recommended to follow the vehicle manufacturer’s guidance or use an OBD-II scanner for proper diagnostics. Nerovisum and its subsidiaries is not responsible for any possible unsatisfactory outcomes. All information must require your own research before attempting any service displayed or shown. Good luck and congrats on the journey of saving yourself money by empowering yourself! Now you know the job is done right✅
Hello @shafesshafes! Here’s a guide for diagnosing and fixing BMW fault code 123516 in your 2014 BMW 320i (F30), which indicates an issue with the secondary air system. Step 1: Confirm the Fault Code 1. Get an OBD-II Scanner: Ideally, use a BMW-specific diagnostic tool like ISTA/D or a high-quality OBD-II scanner that can read BMW-specific codes. 2. Scan for Codes: Plug in the scanner, access the diagnostic menu, and confirm that fault code 123516 is present. 3. Record Any Additional Codes: Sometimes multiple codes appear, which can help pinpoint the exact problem. Step 2: Inspect the Secondary Air Pump System 1. Locate the Secondary Air Pump: In the 2014 BMW 320i, the secondary air pump is typically located near the front of the engine bay, often beneath the intake manifold. 2. Check the Pump for Obstructions or Physical Damage: Look for any visible signs of damage, debris, or corrosion on the pump. Clean off any dirt or debris to ensure nothing is blocking it. Step 3: Test the Secondary Air Pump Relay and Fuse 1. Locate the Fuse and Relay Box: The fuse box is usually located in the engine bay or glove compartment. 2. Find the Secondary Air Pump Fuse and Relay: Check your vehicle manual to locate the specific fuse and relay for the secondary air pump. 3. Test the Fuse and Relay: Replace the fuse if it’s blown. For the relay, try swapping it with a similar relay in the fuse box to see if the problem changes. If the relay is faulty, replace it. Step 4: Inspect the Hoses and Connections 1. Check for Cracks or Blockages: Follow the hoses connected to the secondary air pump and inspect them for cracks, loose connections, or blockages. 2. Clean or Replace Damaged Hoses: If any hoses are cracked, brittle, or clogged, they may need to be cleaned or replaced. Step 5: Inspect the Check Valve (Non-Return Valve) 1. Locate the Check Valve: The check valve is usually located between the secondary air pump and the exhaust manifold. 2. Test the Check Valve: Disconnect the hose leading from the pump to the check valve and attempt to blow air through it. Air should only flow in one direction (toward the exhaust). 3. Replace if Faulty: If air flows in both directions or doesn’t flow at all, the check valve is likely faulty and needs replacement. Step 6: Clear the Code and Test the System 1. Clear the Code: Use your OBD-II scanner to clear the fault code. 2. Start the Engine and Monitor: Start the car and allow it to warm up. Observe for any check engine light reappearance or unusual sounds from the air pump. 3. Rescan if Needed: After a few minutes, rescan for codes to ensure the 123516 fault code does not reappear. Important Notes: • If the Issue Persists: If the code returns after following these steps, the air pump itself might be failing and could require replacement. • Professional Assistance: Secondary air system repairs can sometimes be complex. If the issue persists, it may be best to consult a BMW-certified mechanic for further diagnostic tests. Let me know if you need more help with any specific step! If you’re comfortable working on your BMW, you could start by checking the relay, fuse, and hoses; otherwise, consulting a professional mechanic is recommended. Good luck & hit that share/subscribe button
Hey! I have a 2012 528i derive N20. Ive been getting the “FC120308 boost pressure control, plausibility: pressure too low” code for a few years and drivetrain malfunction. This is the only code I have. Car drives fine but throws code every time I accelerate for the first time of the drive. It’s a pretty loud rattle when the car is just sitting as well. Could this just be the wastegate actuator? If I replace that with another one, could it solve the problem?
Over time, the valve operated by the actuator no longer seals tightly against the manifold as it did when the car was new, which is common with regular use. This can result in low boost pressure and cause rattling noises. You have two options to address this issue-let me know if you’d like more details, and I’d be happy to help further. FYI you have a non electrical actuator which is not shown in this video. The one in the video is a electrical actuator which BMW used in the years after yours. One other rattle occurrence something within the exhaust system of certain BMW. Cars with duel exhaust will shut down to one exhaust for gas and emissions efficiency.
I need to replace the same thing but those four screws are rusted to the point of falling apart when touched. Anything you recommend I do to help make it easier? My last option is taking it to a mechanic 😅
Hello @zyRexGaming check out the link to my website on an article I just wrote inspired by your post. It gives some detail in writing/audio. If that doesn’t help you may need to take off the manifold and everything as a whole to have better access. Take your time and be patient. Let me know your results. Good luck! Audio Article to help: www.nerovisum.com/?p=11325
Here is the link for the new BMW 2013 and above electronic wastegate actuator shown in video: amzn.to/3BE13kH And A link for the older style wastegate for BMW 2012 and before: amzn.to/4eEjDYA
Email me at: RUclips@nerovisum.com for general DIY help support and paid video conference call and walk you through repair process service available. Just put “DYI Help” in the subject line. State your problem regarding the posted RUclips content. Thank you subscribers and keep up the great work! @nerovisum
Here is the link for the new BMW 2013 and above electronic wastegate actuator shown in video: amzn.to/3BE13kH
And
A link for the older style wastegate for BMW 2012 and before: amzn.to/4eEjDYA
Great video bro! Just bought one gonna try it this weekend.
Thank you brotha. Great job attempting to learn a skill. You got this. You get stuck just comment below and ill answer. Let us know your results in the comments.
Side note I just uploaded a rotor and break upgrade video if you would like to broaden your mechanical skills (ruclips.net/video/tUIG-o7v4bA/видео.htmlsi=iY7_nKwI1LX1Fl1M)
Should the Check Engine light automatically clear itself? Thanks
Sounds like you are at the end of the job 🎉 . It will take 50-100 miles driving time to clear an engine code. 9/10 times, these codes are cleared by hooking up diagnostics ECU device and clearing the codes that way. Take it to neighborhood auto part store for they can do that for you or the poor mans way.
The old-school trick of draining power from a car’s ECU (Electronic Control Unit) using a resistor typically involves using an ohm resistor to discharge residual electrical charge from the ECU after the battery is disconnected. This is done to reset the ECU or clear fault codes without using a scanner. Here’s a common method:
1. Disconnect the battery: Remove both the positive and negative terminals from the car battery to cut power to the ECU.
2. Install the resistor: Use a resistor (often a 10-ohm, 1-watt resistor) and connect it between the disconnected battery terminals. The resistor allows for a controlled discharge of any residual energy in the ECU and other systems. This method is safer than directly shorting the terminals.
3. Wait for a few minutes: Leave the resistor in place for about 10-30 minutes to ensure that all power has drained from the system.
4. Reconnect the battery: After sufficient time has passed, remove the resistor and reconnect the battery terminals.
This procedure can reset the ECU, clearing certain fault codes or returning adaptive learning systems (such as fuel trims and transmission shift patterns) to factory settings.
Note: These methods are used at your own risk, and it is recommended to follow the vehicle manufacturer’s guidance or use an OBD-II scanner for proper diagnostics. Nerovisum and its subsidiaries is not responsible for any possible unsatisfactory outcomes. All information must require your own research before attempting any service displayed or shown. Good luck and congrats on the journey of saving yourself money by empowering yourself! Now you know the job is done right✅
@@Nerovisum Much appreciated, thanks for taking the time to write this up
Hi I’m getting this code 123516 on my 2014 bmw 320i . Would this be the same issues. Thank you in advance
Hello @shafesshafes!
Here’s a guide for diagnosing and fixing BMW fault code 123516 in your 2014 BMW 320i (F30), which indicates an issue with the secondary air system.
Step 1: Confirm the Fault Code
1. Get an OBD-II Scanner: Ideally, use a BMW-specific diagnostic tool like ISTA/D or a high-quality OBD-II scanner that can read BMW-specific codes.
2. Scan for Codes: Plug in the scanner, access the diagnostic menu, and confirm that fault code 123516 is present.
3. Record Any Additional Codes: Sometimes multiple codes appear, which can help pinpoint the exact problem.
Step 2: Inspect the Secondary Air Pump System
1. Locate the Secondary Air Pump: In the 2014 BMW 320i, the secondary air pump is typically located near the front of the engine bay, often beneath the intake manifold.
2. Check the Pump for Obstructions or Physical Damage: Look for any visible signs of damage, debris, or corrosion on the pump. Clean off any dirt or debris to ensure nothing is blocking it.
Step 3: Test the Secondary Air Pump Relay and Fuse
1. Locate the Fuse and Relay Box: The fuse box is usually located in the engine bay or glove compartment.
2. Find the Secondary Air Pump Fuse and Relay: Check your vehicle manual to locate the specific fuse and relay for the secondary air pump.
3. Test the Fuse and Relay: Replace the fuse if it’s blown. For the relay, try swapping it with a similar relay in the fuse box to see if the problem changes. If the relay is faulty, replace it.
Step 4: Inspect the Hoses and Connections
1. Check for Cracks or Blockages: Follow the hoses connected to the secondary air pump and inspect them for cracks, loose connections, or blockages.
2. Clean or Replace Damaged Hoses: If any hoses are cracked, brittle, or clogged, they may need to be cleaned or replaced.
Step 5: Inspect the Check Valve (Non-Return Valve)
1. Locate the Check Valve: The check valve is usually located between the secondary air pump and the exhaust manifold.
2. Test the Check Valve: Disconnect the hose leading from the pump to the check valve and attempt to blow air through it. Air should only flow in one direction (toward the exhaust).
3. Replace if Faulty: If air flows in both directions or doesn’t flow at all, the check valve is likely faulty and needs replacement.
Step 6: Clear the Code and Test the System
1. Clear the Code: Use your OBD-II scanner to clear the fault code.
2. Start the Engine and Monitor: Start the car and allow it to warm up. Observe for any check engine light reappearance or unusual sounds from the air pump.
3. Rescan if Needed: After a few minutes, rescan for codes to ensure the 123516 fault code does not reappear.
Important Notes:
• If the Issue Persists: If the code returns after following these steps, the air pump itself might be failing and could require replacement.
• Professional Assistance: Secondary air system repairs can sometimes be complex. If the issue persists, it may be best to consult a BMW-certified mechanic for further diagnostic tests.
Let me know if you need more help with any specific step!
If you’re comfortable working on your BMW, you could start by checking the relay, fuse, and hoses; otherwise, consulting a professional mechanic is recommended.
Good luck & hit that share/subscribe button
Hey! I have a 2012 528i derive N20. Ive been getting the “FC120308 boost pressure control, plausibility: pressure too low” code for a few years and drivetrain malfunction. This is the only code I have. Car drives fine but throws code every time I accelerate for the first time of the drive. It’s a pretty loud rattle when the car is just sitting as well. Could this just be the wastegate actuator? If I replace that with another one, could it solve the problem?
Over time, the valve operated by the actuator no longer seals tightly against the manifold as it did when the car was new, which is common with regular use. This can result in low boost pressure and cause rattling noises. You have two options to address this issue-let me know if you’d like more details, and I’d be happy to help further. FYI you have a non electrical actuator which is not shown in this video. The one in the video is a electrical actuator which BMW used in the years after yours.
One other rattle occurrence something within the exhaust system of certain BMW. Cars with duel exhaust will shut down to one exhaust for gas and emissions efficiency.
I need to replace the same thing but those four screws are rusted to the point of falling apart when touched. Anything you recommend I do to help make it easier? My last option is taking it to a mechanic 😅
Hello @zyRexGaming check out the link to my website on an article I just wrote inspired by your post. It gives some detail in writing/audio. If that doesn’t help you may need to take off the manifold and everything as a whole to have better access. Take your time and be patient. Let me know your results. Good luck!
Audio Article to help:
www.nerovisum.com/?p=11325
Do you have a link to the part for this?
Here is the link for the new BMW 2013 and above electronic wastegate actuator shown in video: amzn.to/3BE13kH
And
A link for the older style wastegate for BMW 2012 and before: amzn.to/4eEjDYA
@@Nerovisumso you can install and drive no need to calibrate with a tool?
I adjusted my link and it worked no more check engine
Good job that’s what I’m talking about👊🏾
Email me at: RUclips@nerovisum.com for general DIY help support and paid video conference call and walk you through repair process service available. Just put “DYI Help” in the subject line. State your problem regarding the posted RUclips content.
Thank you subscribers and keep up the great work!
@nerovisum