THE LEVELING SENSOR BROKE. The BLtouch leveling sensor died outside of the return window. Complete and utter trash do not buy!!! Just a quick update: I still cannot get the bed to level consistently. I get it just right and the next time it prints its either to high or scraping the bed. I have updated firmware and followed every single guide on the internet to level the bed properly. I still am not in the Facebook support group. Please don't buy this printer. Buy something else. I don't care what.
Thank you for being honest. I feel like tons of RUclipsrs tip toe around Creality in order to protect their connections. You should put a 0.8mm nozzle on it because that build plate is massive. Still laughable that ABL systems aren’t standard. Yes the price is too damn high
It comes with a 0.8mm nozzle but I still can’t get the bed to level after tons of work leveling, releveling, adjusting motor orientation updating firmware. Complete and utter trash. As for me this channel is purely a hobby and I don’t really have any connections to ruin.
@@JaysTechVault Any good 3d printer you recommend for the budget-minded people? A friend and I want to learn more about 3d printing for cosplay purposes. But want to start with something to learn. I currently use a MakerBot one for my school classes but feel that is not that good have spent tons calibrating the dam plate and never does. The other one I can use is on another campus and that works great but still want one for the house lol. Can't 3d print my stuff with school resources lol ...The MakerBot brand is expensive, we are looking for something reliable for less.
@@casrogue I'd recommend the Prusa i3 mk3s, it has a functional ABL sensor, and everything works very well. though you do have to assemble the parts from scratch.
I have one of those also, I had the same layer height issues as you , I ended up designing and CNC cutting new brackets for those motors , solved the problem immediately and improved the print quality by an amazing amount.
Jays Tech Vault Sorry, after replacing the motor mounts I never had an issue with leveling, have you tried disassembling the whole bed, bed leveling screws, bed carriage and basically the bottom half of the printer? Sometimes (as I’m sure you know) things aren’t quite right from the factory.
You can't, and that's why I bought this machine. I did watch Michael's (Teaching Tech) videos on this machine and realized I've have to invest some time and money to get it to be the a reliable printer I would want. He definitely didn't give it a glowing review in his first video. I bought it as my first printer (against all reviews that I saw). I rather like it. There is more I'd like to do to it. I'll have to do a video on my experiences and all the upgrades I've done...and yes they have been extensive. And yes, there are issues with the Z drive system like explained by Jay. I'd like to change the board out to a 32 bit rather than an 8 bit... next.
There is now. The TRONXY X5SA-500 3D Printer 500*500*600mm and there's even a bigger one on the Tronxy website. I have no idea of the quality, as I bought the Cr-10 Max half a year ago because this thing wasn't around yet
I should mention that if I were to do it again, I'd build a ratrig or Voron 2.4 as both are offered in 500mm sizes and are well designed/supported. Another thing that I've learned this year is that even if I put on the 1.0mm nozzle, that's not going to make my prints faster - I will still be bottlenecked by the max volumetric rate of the volcano hotend. In this case, it's better to go with 0.6mm and move faster - same print time, but much better overhangs, detail and cooling.
I've worked on many of these large format Creality printers. The problem with the Y axis is to large/heavy and almost impossible to control ghosting. You will have to print very slow. I usually recommend to my customers a coreXY for large format.
You will also need to get some 123 blocks to make sure the Z motors are aligned to the bed. I've upgraded at least 10 of these Cr-10 S5. Also a poplar upgrade is AC heated bed.
Thank you! Almost bought one of these turds for $1200. I really wish they would build them in countries where the workers put love into the things they make. So many products I have bought from Mordor that are either broken on arrival or break within a few weeks despite supposedly being good for 10 years.
I don't know what you messed up with when assemble the printer, but I run this big rig for months and have just fun, no issues... works awesome from the box, just keep the tube up and away from the print plate...
I have to be honest, your complaints and troubleshooting do not sound very technical. It's unfortunate you had this experience, but a 450x450 printer is not a starter printer, if one is not very technical. I have had one for over 1.5 years now and print functional/structural parts as well as high quality wearables. With and without upgrades it was great...better than the 4 Cr-10 / Cr-10v2s we have in the shop. A firmware update with Tiny Machines firmware is a must, due to their excellent products and support. If the Max is purchased via Tiny Machines, you get a very functional CR-10Max out-of-box. I would not advise buying anything from Creality Direct. The support experience is gruelling. If you want to work with high-end materials, upgrades are available for the bed (TMFlex or WamBam), Hotend, DirectDrive (DyzEnd-GT, DyzeEnd Pro, Hemera), Many great precision upgrades via Tiny Machines, MatterHackers, TH3D, or 3dJake) The only part of the review I thoroughly agree with is, this should not be your first printer. However, If you add up the upgraded parts and slapped them on a CR-10v2, the cost is about the same and you still don't get the same build volume. >> Z supports, >> BLtouch, >> HQ dedicated PSU for the bed ($197), >> structural supports for the large bed, >> better LCD with touch interface, >> integrated design (no side mount PSU/controller)
I had a boatload of problems with mine too (videos of the issues, and fixes, are in the works on my channel), but quite hilariously the 5 of them we have at work had 0 issues and ran great from day 0. That's the entire reason I bought mine. Seeing the quality, and size, of the parts you can get off of one of these for the price is basically something you just can't get anywhere else. When they're printing right they make very nice, and giant, parts. As far as mine goes, I would have been better off completely disassembling it and starting over from a pile of parts rather than trust with Creality did when they assembled it. I knew going in that I wouldn't get any meaningful support from Creality and that I was basically on my own as that's the reputation they have. I share your frustration that you shouldn't have to spend a bunch of money to get a half finished product with no support. I had exactly the same leveling and layer height issues you're having and the solution ended up being that the gantry wasn't even close to level from side-to-side and the Z-screw bushings were a bit more loose than I liked. With everything set up correctly, there's nowhere near enough effort required on any of the 6 I have experience with (including my personal one now that it's fixed) to flex the motor mounts like what you're seeing with yours. Take your Z screws out, prop up your gantry, and measure to see how far its out side-to-side. I'd be surprised if it's level within more than 10mm. Mine was out by like 40mm. The bigger issue(s) I had with mine were that ALL of the wheels were flat spotted from sitting in the warehouse or where ever until I got it, the belt tensions were all way off, and the pulley alignment was also wrong which chewed a Y axis belt right off the bat (which is currently sold out everywhere on Earth as far as I can tell). Mine just would NOT print to dimension with all of those issues. After replacing ALL of the wheels (this could be some of your Z motor problem too), straightening up the belt situation (including installing an X-axis tension kit), and getting the Z axis gantry tuned up, it's finally printing fine... hilariously it did just break its cooling duct off. Tiny Machines sells injection molded replacements that are much more durable, but 2 of ours at work have them taped on and one doesn't have one at all. ;) Oh! My extruder sheet metal cover was bent up too, just in a different way from yours. The tabs were all manufactured wrong. Anyhow... I share all of your disappointments, but I was able to fix mine up and I hope you can (or maybe already have) as well. It is capable of making very nice prints if you're willing to tinker with it enough to make it run well.
I've bought one as well, and I totally agree. And I still don't get why there's so few people mentioning these issues on the internet. I mean I was searching for days, and I just could find anything. I started to think that maybe I'm doing something wrong, and then I've found out that the firmware is full of bugs, so it has to be updated to work properly. Like what? They release a product with a broken firmware?
For Any expensive technology, Do No give it the "benefit of the doubt." Return it, or exchange it. If the exchange suffers problems, return it, get your money back, and find something else. If it's not working on Day One, don't expect it to magically improve.
100% totally agree. Even more disappointing is that Creality gave zero support. It is a total turd smasher. But now I'm stuck with it and need to do something with it. The losers at Creatlity have nothing on their web site about this product, leaving everyone who WASTED $1000 with Creality holding a bag-o-turd that Creality made. Frankly the FTC should force Creality to refund all CR10 Max purchasers. Maybe we should start a campaign to do just that!
Has anyone discovered a hotend that properly fits this? Of course, Creality's own Spider will not. And, seriously, we should consider reaching out to other CR10 Max buyers and forming a coalition to petition the FTC to force Creality to replace all these units. They clearly foisted untested garbage upon us.
Odd this. Mine is fantastic. Done a upgrade where i have a belt between the two z axis large screws which means the z axis never gos out of sync. I place mine on a bycycle innertube. Sounds bonkers but it works great to take all vibrations out and reduce any ghosting. Mine been working for about 18 months 24 hours a day and never had issues with it. Get a flexible bed from 3d jack, their lighter and much easier to work with. I put a new heating block on mine and just screwed in a standard nozel. No need to cut threads, the brass nozel does that as you screw it in. Now im not stuck using creality own nozels for the cr10 range. Printed a filament guide and its a great machine. Paid about 550 for mine.
Mine has been great. No issues at all. PID tune and leveled the bed and it has been a champ. Sounds like you got the one on the bottom of the stack... Which sucks. I did have to go through and retighten a lot of the screws when I set it up.
Jay, I have a lot of experience with Creality products and I did notice a few issues in the build. While I don't work for Creality I would like to help you with the issues you are having. Please reach out to me and we can get into a video cal and I can show the tips and tricks I have developed over the years.
I would have contacted their support after the first problem of the bed not being level all around... and then hassled their support for a way to fix it and then ask for a replacement if it still doesn't work. I don't know how good their service is but I sent my resin printer back to the company that makes it and they fixed the problem I was having.
Hello, I have a problem with the cr-6 MAx and it is printing and suddenly it stops working like it freezes, has it ever happened to you or could you tell me what it could be.
My experience has been much different. Not better, but different. My CR-10 Max has a habit of resetting the bed temperature to 0 degrees while it's in the middle of printing, and often times nothing sticks to the hot bed at all, so I've been doing the old painter's tape and glue stick method, but even that doesn't seem to work. I don't know exactly what's causing it, but the print keeps getting ripped off the bed and I end up with PLA spaghetti all over the place. I haven't had it very long, but I've gone through a little over a kilogram of filament with nothing to show for it.
after using a CR10 MAX for a few months I can see why you gave it a bad review. it doesn't work outside the box at all, like not even close It needs tons of fine tuning/ mods to work properly especially the bed height stuff as i had to shift the Z axis 3mm to keep it from printing in the air. but after a week i got it working flawlessly the print quality is equal or better than other small higher res printers from Prusa ex. i'm pretty happy with this printer and have been printing non stop for weeks now my next step is seeing if i can get quieter fans or an enclosure to lower noise.
It's interesting by reading the comments that people have been conditioned to expect broken diy garbage for 1k. It's not an Ender 3 v1. It's a $1,000. printer! 🤦♂️
Thanks for the honest review. I need a printer with the large build volume, but now I know that this machine may be a lot of headaches and extra work to get running. Looking for something else. Sorry you blew your RUclips money on it.
Same. Ive had stringing issues..but thats just a settings dial in. Honestly...all of his problems sound like someone who doesnt know what theyre doing and cant fine tune. His words show me he is NOT "Really" familiar like he claims.
@@vrokar1 I have experience with 6 CR-10 Max printers and my personal printer was also a "lemon" out of the box. The 5 we have at work ran great from the moment they were powered up, though each one does have different personality traits that need mechanically tuned out. After much dinking around with mine I finally got all of the gremlins sorted out of mine, so, I know it does happen that Creality quality control isn't completely uniform.
@@TheBrokenLife What are the issues addressed and what was the best solutions? I have this printer on order and wouldn’t mind having a leg up when It comes time to address things when/if needed.
@@rogboak I have a video series on my channel about it. The short answer with mine is that all of the guide wheels were flat-spotted and nothing was put together properly. I rebuilt all 3 axis myself and replaced 18 of the 21 wheels on the machine. It's printing pretty consistently now. Also... Creality had the Y belt pulleys so badly aligned that it chewed them up within hours. After months of waiting, Creality did warranty the belts (which were out of stock literally everywhere on Earth at the time). I didn't bother to ask about the wheels since they're easy to get and only about a buck/ea. This all sounds worse than it is, but I admit its frustrating to have to disassemble an entire brand new machine to fix it. Seems to just be the way it is with Creality.
I have a cr10 max. it will not print straight out of the box. it levels the bed, preheats, says that its printing and nothing is happening. The print head is just sitting still not moving after it does the bed level. The percentage completed meter keeps going up like its printing... but its not doing anything
my cr10-max worked perfectly out of the box, im still using it for 200hr+ prints, it prints non-stop... you got a dudd bro, and honestly its a cheap printer compared to something of the same size... especially with the hardware on it
@@hoodieninja_7203 clearly his postage service wasnt up to scratch also, he's what you call unlucky... if my 3dprinter arrived damaged, i would send it back, thats his own desicion to keep it broken, and then complain about it...
The thing is that Creality has massive problems with their electronics. All my Creality printers except the Ender 3 Pro have had electronics boards issues multiple times. The board delivered in my CR10 Max did not work for the homing of the y-axis - faulty board/My replacement board has bad connections on the power connector and only turns on when you press the connector. On 2 CR10S I have gone through 5 boards - none of them are running now. This is a company that bribes testers for reviews and have crappy quality. Maybe there is ONLY 30% chance of getting a dud, but this is crap!
Holy smokes batman!!! Jay!!!! I bought my cr10 max over a year ago. No experience with 3d printing until I got this unit. I have the same issues you had plus some. I hate working with the damn thing because 9 out of 10 times, it doesn't print right. I can try it 10 times without making any adjustments. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. So pi$$ed at Creality! What a pile of garbage they make. $1200 boat anchor. DO NOT BUY CREALITY!!!! Be warned.
I haven't gotten the max yet but the ender 3 pro prints like a champ for 100$ printer. I got an adventurer 4 for about 1k and it can't print anything without messing up every print. Have u had an ender 3 max?
Every print with different layer height needs a slight different adjustment while printing... .05 mm or what ever. I printed with 0.4 / 0.8 / 1.2 extruders fast printing nmo problem, for the last year. I have 3 of these... Daily printing every day....
At least you could print with your printer initially. Mine could not home the Y-axis because of a board issue.Tested sensors, simulated sensors (short circuit homing wire) and on the board. Board did not work. Bought new main board - and power is not working becuase of faulty soldering of the mains connector. This is my fourth Creality printer - CR10S - both have printed well one for 200hr - very well and the other for about 100hr before main board issues. The Ender 3 pro has been fantastic - rest is garbage!
Thanks for the review. I am trying to find something with the print size of the Chiron. I had three of them but I was able to work with the first one only (I saw the main board of the other two, blow up after 2 month or directly from the box). I am currently working with the QQS-Pro but I feel constrained by the size. I have some hope for CR-6 Max
Thank you so much for this review. I was contemplating whether to get this printer or the CR30 printer mill. I am looking to print out cosplay items and hopefully start a at home part time business/hobby. What are your thoughts on Creality's printer mill aka CR30, whose cost is in the same Ball park of this printer.
what build plate did you switch to ? ... my surface started cracking an peeling from the edges after some ten of prints. and the extruder was trash out of the box.
@@JaysTechVault i tried to find any system compatible straight out of the box from eu but found no compiciant product. so i got a PrimaCreator FlexPlate-Powder Coated they only had 510x510... i just gotta figure out how to cut it. i wonder can i use an edge sander with cutting blade or do i need to find a water cutting service here. I wonder why is every bed surface 510 or 470 at the max, i wonder did that even fit out of the box on the bed ? ....sadlly i did not run into whambam, though i propably would still have gone with the primacreator as currently mail from the us to europe is a bit cumbersome.
@@JaysTechVault I can second the Wham Bam plate, it's wonderful! Too bad I had to buy it after I trashed my stock build surface. It was early on when my CR-10 Max was still new, I printed a large object covering the whole bed. It printed beautifully, but it stuck well... and with that much surface area I ended up piercing the build surface trying to get my part free. But after experiencing the Wham Bam plate, I've bought them for all my printers (even my msla printer) and I'll never go back.
@@grimlord4765 Well since the printer cannot home the Y axis it is not about doing things wrong - it is about the hardware malfunctionning, and it is neither the switch nor the cable, and the replacement board is not loldered properly. Expect a high probabliity of crap when you buy Creality!
Hate to hear you had such a bad time after dropping that much on a printer. I have been afraid to buy a 3D printer just seems like they could end with alot of frustration for me.
All I hear is I have no idea what the fuck im doing and I dont understand the value of hardware. I have a CR 10 MAX and I fken love it, his kid just has no fuken idea what he is doing lol
I have also bought one of these...I believed that I had done a great deal of research before buying ( yes, $1000.00 is a lot of money to me too) I did not see an HONEST review until I saw yours...Thank You...I have had this unit for about 5 months, I have had more failures than successes. I consider myself technical and yet I have needed to tinker and mess with this unit...I am really disillusioned and frustrated. I too needed it for printing prototypes for work, I am now really behind the 8-ball and scrambling as I wasted my time and money on this unit. To those that have sent comments that it printed right out of the box perfectly or has been printing 200+ hours...maybe you received the odd ones (that work correctly) or are paid/ sponsored by Creality or it's vendors and everyone else received the standard units of poor quality and used their own money to purchase it.
Jeez Louise - I clicked on RUclips reviews for this product because the specs looked really wild ... and 2 for 2 I got the big old THUMBS DOWN. What a shame! I guess, before I plunk down $1000 on my first ever 3D printer, I will look elsewhere. Maybe if enough of you guys complain, Creality - out of Shenzhen , China - will have to do a major overall of their product.
If your gonna buy a 3d printer get an ender 3 I got mine 2 weeks ago and it’s amazing it’s completely stock and if you do have any problems there is a huge community out there that’s willing to help you It’s my first printer but I couldn’t be happier with it yes there are some very minor issues with it but for the price you just can’t beat it
Jays Tech Vault how big do u need it ? I’m not saying it’s the best printer for u but the build volume is actually too big for me as I only print small things rn the the longest print is 18h and I’ve got it running now
@@JaysTechVault so mutch time lost in rage :( feel bad for you, i had the total opposit, first test cat was superb, to the point where i dont see the seam between the layers. for me its an amazing machine, but ive only had 36 hours on it, and not a single thing have gone wrong, so far......
"such an expensive product" I could understand you if you had paid 10.000 $ - which is still a mid priced printer in that size if you look over the spand of printers - it's a little pathetic i find.. And i have the same printer and problems like you, but i didn't expect it to print like a 10, 20, 30.000 $ printer out of the box.. Grow some thicker skin - i think you're whining..
Not defending the printer... but it's mildly laughable that someone who sort of brags with a screenshot about being an "engineer", also mentions his experience with 3d printing, took three weeks to find the issue with the z motors.
@@3dg3nesis Ok ... this reply is a year late but here goes: If you are talking about putting a new spool on after the filament has run out, I don't think it's possible to get that to work consistently, especially on a big print. Once the filament runs out, the printer shuts off the bed heater and everything cools down. When you put on a new spool it is almost impossible not to move something on the gantry when you are feeding the new material into the extruder, and adhesion is often bad because the part is cold. The result is layer shift and separation at the point where the print resumed. I machined an extension for the spool holder so I could put on a 5 pound spool. That way I could print large parts without running out.
THE LEVELING SENSOR BROKE. The BLtouch leveling sensor died outside of the return window. Complete and utter trash do not buy!!!
Just a quick update:
I still cannot get the bed to level consistently. I get it just right and the next time it prints its either to high or scraping the bed. I have updated firmware and followed every single guide on the internet to level the bed properly.
I still am not in the Facebook support group.
Please don't buy this printer. Buy something else. I don't care what.
A DILDO
Try selling this garbage to get your money back
Hey try updating the firmware to the tiny machines firmware
Hey friend, where can I find the firmware update
I have the exact same leveling problems. I've put so many hours in this piece of trash... Fucking hate it! Please let me know if you find a solution.
Be honest, Jay. We all know you're in the 3D printing business to print your own LEGO bricks.
Shhh
Thank you for being honest. I feel like tons of RUclipsrs tip toe around Creality in order to protect their connections. You should put a 0.8mm nozzle on it because that build plate is massive. Still laughable that ABL systems aren’t standard. Yes the price is too damn high
It comes with a 0.8mm nozzle but I still can’t get the bed to level after tons of work leveling, releveling, adjusting motor orientation updating firmware. Complete and utter trash.
As for me this channel is purely a hobby and I don’t really have any connections to ruin.
@@JaysTechVault Any good 3d printer you recommend for the budget-minded people? A friend and I want to learn more about 3d printing for cosplay purposes. But want to start with something to learn. I currently use a MakerBot one for my school classes but feel that is not that good have spent tons calibrating the dam plate and never does. The other one I can use is on another campus and that works great but still want one for the house lol. Can't 3d print my stuff with school resources lol ...The MakerBot brand is expensive, we are looking for something reliable for less.
@@casrogue I'd recommend the Prusa i3 mk3s, it has a functional ABL sensor, and everything works very well. though you do have to assemble the parts from scratch.
I have one of those also, I had the same layer height issues as you , I ended up designing and CNC cutting new brackets for those motors , solved the problem immediately and improved the print quality by an amazing amount.
Are you having leveling issues too? I can’t get it to level at a consistent height. Did you find a solution?
Jays Tech Vault Sorry, after replacing the motor mounts I never had an issue with leveling, have you tried disassembling the whole bed, bed leveling screws, bed carriage and basically the bottom half of the printer? Sometimes (as I’m sure you know) things aren’t quite right from the factory.
Yea ); why I made this video because it just seems to have so many problemsz
Jays Tech Vault it is probably the worst designed tool I own
Evan, are you willing to share the design files so i can make me the brackets?
Sounds like the z axis screws might have been bent in shipping.
So, where can I find another brand of 450x450x470 printer for 1000 dollars?
You can't, and that's why I bought this machine. I did watch Michael's (Teaching Tech) videos on this machine and realized I've have to invest some time and money to get it to be the a reliable printer I would want. He definitely didn't give it a glowing review in his first video. I bought it as my first printer (against all reviews that I saw). I rather like it. There is more I'd like to do to it. I'll have to do a video on my experiences and all the upgrades I've done...and yes they have been extensive. And yes, there are issues with the Z drive system like explained by Jay. I'd like to change the board out to a 32 bit rather than an 8 bit... next.
There is now. The
TRONXY X5SA-500 3D Printer 500*500*600mm and there's even a bigger one on the Tronxy website. I have no idea of the quality, as I bought the Cr-10 Max half a year ago because this thing wasn't around yet
@@albinogonzo3405 did you end up buying the x5sa?
I should mention that if I were to do it again, I'd build a ratrig or Voron 2.4 as both are offered in 500mm sizes and are well designed/supported. Another thing that I've learned this year is that even if I put on the 1.0mm nozzle, that's not going to make my prints faster - I will still be bottlenecked by the max volumetric rate of the volcano hotend. In this case, it's better to go with 0.6mm and move faster - same print time, but much better overhangs, detail and cooling.
I've worked on many of these large format Creality printers. The problem with the Y axis is to large/heavy and almost impossible to control ghosting. You will have to print very slow. I usually recommend to my customers a coreXY for large format.
You will also need to get some 123 blocks to make sure the Z motors are aligned to the bed. I've upgraded at least 10 of these Cr-10 S5. Also a poplar upgrade is AC heated bed.
The moment when you are so disappointed you dont even finish the
Thank you! Almost bought one of these turds for $1200. I really wish they would build them in countries where the workers put love into the things they make. So many products I have bought from Mordor that are either broken on arrival or break within a few weeks despite supposedly being good for 10 years.
CVX has returned.. hopefully you remember me from old support :D
I don't know what you messed up with when assemble the printer, but I run this big rig for months and have just fun, no issues... works awesome from the box, just keep the tube up and away from the print plate...
I have to be honest, your complaints and troubleshooting do not sound very technical.
It's unfortunate you had this experience, but a 450x450 printer is not a starter printer, if one is not very technical.
I have had one for over 1.5 years now and print functional/structural parts as well as high quality wearables.
With and without upgrades it was great...better than the 4 Cr-10 / Cr-10v2s we have in the shop.
A firmware update with Tiny Machines firmware is a must, due to their excellent products and support.
If the Max is purchased via Tiny Machines, you get a very functional CR-10Max out-of-box.
I would not advise buying anything from Creality Direct. The support experience is gruelling.
If you want to work with high-end materials, upgrades are available for the bed (TMFlex or WamBam), Hotend, DirectDrive (DyzEnd-GT, DyzeEnd Pro, Hemera), Many great precision upgrades via Tiny Machines, MatterHackers, TH3D, or 3dJake)
The only part of the review I thoroughly agree with is, this should not be your first printer.
However, If you add up the upgraded parts and slapped them on a CR-10v2, the cost is about the same and you still don't get the same build volume.
>> Z supports,
>> BLtouch,
>> HQ dedicated PSU for the bed ($197),
>> structural supports for the large bed,
>> better LCD with touch interface,
>> integrated design (no side mount PSU/controller)
I had a boatload of problems with mine too (videos of the issues, and fixes, are in the works on my channel), but quite hilariously the 5 of them we have at work had 0 issues and ran great from day 0. That's the entire reason I bought mine. Seeing the quality, and size, of the parts you can get off of one of these for the price is basically something you just can't get anywhere else. When they're printing right they make very nice, and giant, parts.
As far as mine goes, I would have been better off completely disassembling it and starting over from a pile of parts rather than trust with Creality did when they assembled it. I knew going in that I wouldn't get any meaningful support from Creality and that I was basically on my own as that's the reputation they have. I share your frustration that you shouldn't have to spend a bunch of money to get a half finished product with no support.
I had exactly the same leveling and layer height issues you're having and the solution ended up being that the gantry wasn't even close to level from side-to-side and the Z-screw bushings were a bit more loose than I liked. With everything set up correctly, there's nowhere near enough effort required on any of the 6 I have experience with (including my personal one now that it's fixed) to flex the motor mounts like what you're seeing with yours. Take your Z screws out, prop up your gantry, and measure to see how far its out side-to-side. I'd be surprised if it's level within more than 10mm. Mine was out by like 40mm.
The bigger issue(s) I had with mine were that ALL of the wheels were flat spotted from sitting in the warehouse or where ever until I got it, the belt tensions were all way off, and the pulley alignment was also wrong which chewed a Y axis belt right off the bat (which is currently sold out everywhere on Earth as far as I can tell). Mine just would NOT print to dimension with all of those issues. After replacing ALL of the wheels (this could be some of your Z motor problem too), straightening up the belt situation (including installing an X-axis tension kit), and getting the Z axis gantry tuned up, it's finally printing fine... hilariously it did just break its cooling duct off. Tiny Machines sells injection molded replacements that are much more durable, but 2 of ours at work have them taped on and one doesn't have one at all. ;)
Oh! My extruder sheet metal cover was bent up too, just in a different way from yours. The tabs were all manufactured wrong.
Anyhow... I share all of your disappointments, but I was able to fix mine up and I hope you can (or maybe already have) as well. It is capable of making very nice prints if you're willing to tinker with it enough to make it run well.
I've bought one as well, and I totally agree. And I still don't get why there's so few people mentioning these issues on the internet. I mean I was searching for days, and I just could find anything. I started to think that maybe I'm doing something wrong, and then I've found out that the firmware is full of bugs, so it has to be updated to work properly. Like what? They release a product with a broken firmware?
For Any expensive technology, Do No give it the "benefit of the doubt." Return it, or exchange it. If the exchange suffers problems, return it, get your money back, and find something else. If it's not working on Day One, don't expect it to magically improve.
100% totally agree. Even more disappointing is that Creality gave zero support. It is a total turd smasher. But now I'm stuck with it and need to do something with it. The losers at Creatlity have nothing on their web site about this product, leaving everyone who WASTED $1000 with Creality holding a bag-o-turd that Creality made. Frankly the FTC should force Creality to refund all CR10 Max purchasers. Maybe we should start a campaign to do just that!
Has anyone discovered a hotend that properly fits this? Of course, Creality's own Spider will not.
And, seriously, we should consider reaching out to other CR10 Max buyers and forming a coalition to petition the FTC to force Creality to replace all these units. They clearly foisted untested garbage upon us.
There was so much conviction when said "So!" I felt it haha.
Odd this. Mine is fantastic. Done a upgrade where i have a belt between the two z axis large screws which means the z axis never gos out of sync. I place mine on a bycycle innertube. Sounds bonkers but it works great to take all vibrations out and reduce any ghosting. Mine been working for about 18 months 24 hours a day and never had issues with it. Get a flexible bed from 3d jack, their lighter and much easier to work with. I put a new heating block on mine and just screwed in a standard nozel. No need to cut threads, the brass nozel does that as you screw it in. Now im not stuck using creality own nozels for the cr10 range. Printed a filament guide and its a great machine. Paid about 550 for mine.
Mine has been great. No issues at all. PID tune and leveled the bed and it has been a champ. Sounds like you got the one on the bottom of the stack... Which sucks. I did have to go through and retighten a lot of the screws when I set it up.
Jay, I have a lot of experience with Creality products and I did notice a few issues in the build. While I don't work for Creality I would like to help you with the issues you are having. Please reach out to me and we can get into a video cal and I can show the tips and tricks I have developed over the years.
Hey there. I got the CR-10 Max and mine has been giving me issues out the box. Their customer service is sub par. I don’t know how to fix it.
Try the cr10s pro
There's some videos one my RUclips channel and some other videos scattered on RUclips
Also newer and have some firmware updates by the tiny machines
Sorry to hear this, dude! I just picked this up and don't have any of these issues out of the box. It seems like you got a used one that was abused
I would have contacted their support after the first problem of the bed not being level all around... and then hassled their support for a way to fix it and then ask for a replacement if it still doesn't work. I don't know how good their service is but I sent my resin printer back to the company that makes it and they fixed the problem I was having.
Hello, I have a problem with the cr-6 MAx and it is printing and suddenly it stops working like it freezes, has it ever happened to you or could you tell me what it could be.
My experience has been much different. Not better, but different. My CR-10 Max has a habit of resetting the bed temperature to 0 degrees while it's in the middle of printing, and often times nothing sticks to the hot bed at all, so I've been doing the old painter's tape and glue stick method, but even that doesn't seem to work. I don't know exactly what's causing it, but the print keeps getting ripped off the bed and I end up with PLA spaghetti all over the place. I haven't had it very long, but I've gone through a little over a kilogram of filament with nothing to show for it.
after using a CR10 MAX for a few months I can see why you gave it a bad review.
it doesn't work outside the box at all, like not even close
It needs tons of fine tuning/ mods to work properly especially the bed height stuff as i had to shift the Z axis 3mm to keep it from printing in the air.
but after a week i got it working flawlessly
the print quality is equal or better than other small higher res printers from Prusa ex.
i'm pretty happy with this printer and have been printing non stop for weeks now
my next step is seeing if i can get quieter fans or an enclosure to lower noise.
It's interesting by reading the comments that people have been conditioned to expect broken diy garbage for 1k. It's not an Ender 3 v1. It's a $1,000. printer! 🤦♂️
Do you have a list of mods you would recommend? I wanna help someone getting his to work.
Thanks for the honest review. I need a printer with the large build volume, but now I know that this machine may be a lot of headaches and extra work to get running. Looking for something else. Sorry you blew your RUclips money on it.
I think YOURS is messed up. It happens man. Mine has been rocking for a long time without issue
Same. Ive had stringing issues..but thats just a settings dial in. Honestly...all of his problems sound like someone who doesnt know what theyre doing and cant fine tune. His words show me he is NOT "Really" familiar like he claims.
@@vrokar1 I have experience with 6 CR-10 Max printers and my personal printer was also a "lemon" out of the box. The 5 we have at work ran great from the moment they were powered up, though each one does have different personality traits that need mechanically tuned out. After much dinking around with mine I finally got all of the gremlins sorted out of mine, so, I know it does happen that Creality quality control isn't completely uniform.
@@TheBrokenLife What are the issues addressed and what was the best solutions? I have this printer on order and wouldn’t mind having a leg up when It comes time to address things when/if needed.
@@rogboak I have a video series on my channel about it. The short answer with mine is that all of the guide wheels were flat-spotted and nothing was put together properly. I rebuilt all 3 axis myself and replaced 18 of the 21 wheels on the machine. It's printing pretty consistently now.
Also... Creality had the Y belt pulleys so badly aligned that it chewed them up within hours. After months of waiting, Creality did warranty the belts (which were out of stock literally everywhere on Earth at the time). I didn't bother to ask about the wheels since they're easy to get and only about a buck/ea.
This all sounds worse than it is, but I admit its frustrating to have to disassemble an entire brand new machine to fix it. Seems to just be the way it is with Creality.
my cr10 got sent back after 2 days of nonsense. Always keep the original packaging. Good luck
I have a cr10 max. it will not print straight out of the box. it levels the bed, preheats, says that its printing and nothing is happening. The print head is just sitting still not moving after it does the bed level. The percentage completed meter keeps going up like its printing... but its not doing anything
my cr10-max worked perfectly out of the box, im still using it for 200hr+ prints, it prints non-stop...
you got a dudd bro, and honestly its a cheap printer compared to something of the same size... especially with the hardware on it
What he's describing seem more like fundamental design flaws than a "dudd."
@@hoodieninja_7203 i have the same pri nter, mine works flawlessly, yeah he got a dudd, it happens with expensive printers ($30,000+) too
@@hoodieninja_7203 clearly his postage service wasnt up to scratch also, he's what you call unlucky... if my 3dprinter arrived damaged, i would send it back, thats his own desicion to keep it broken, and then complain about it...
The thing is that Creality has massive problems with their electronics.
All my Creality printers except the Ender 3 Pro have had electronics boards issues multiple times.
The board delivered in my CR10 Max did not work for the homing of the y-axis - faulty board/My replacement board has bad connections on the power connector and only turns on when you press the connector. On 2 CR10S I have gone through 5 boards - none of them are running now.
This is a company that bribes testers for reviews and have crappy quality. Maybe there is ONLY 30% chance of getting a dud, but this is crap!
Holy smokes batman!!! Jay!!!! I bought my cr10 max over a year ago. No experience with 3d printing until I got this unit. I have the same issues you had plus some. I hate working with the damn thing because 9 out of 10 times, it doesn't print right. I can try it 10 times without making any adjustments. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. So pi$$ed at Creality! What a pile of garbage they make. $1200 boat anchor. DO NOT BUY CREALITY!!!! Be warned.
I haven't gotten the max yet but the ender 3 pro prints like a champ for 100$ printer. I got an adventurer 4 for about 1k and it can't print anything without messing up every print. Have u had an ender 3 max?
Every print with different layer height needs a slight different adjustment while printing... .05 mm or what ever. I printed with 0.4 / 0.8 / 1.2 extruders fast printing nmo problem, for the last year. I have 3 of these... Daily printing every day....
Which other printe?rs would you look at?
At least you could print with your printer initially.
Mine could not home the Y-axis because of a board issue.Tested sensors, simulated sensors (short circuit homing wire) and on the board. Board did not work.
Bought new main board - and power is not working becuase of faulty soldering of the mains connector.
This is my fourth Creality printer - CR10S - both have printed well one for 200hr - very well and the other for about 100hr before main board issues. The Ender 3 pro has been fantastic - rest is garbage!
Thanks for the review. I am trying to find something with the print size of the Chiron. I had three of them but I was able to work with the first one only (I saw the main board of the other two, blow up after 2 month or directly from the box). I am currently working with the QQS-Pro but I feel constrained by the size. I have some hope for CR-6 Max
Thank you so much for this review. I was contemplating whether to get this printer or the CR30 printer mill. I am looking to print out cosplay items and hopefully start a at home part time business/hobby. What are your thoughts on Creality's printer mill aka CR30, whose cost is in the same Ball park of this printer.
Thanks for info man u r the best
i paid 400euros and i still cant fix it XD everything just isnt working well
what build plate did you switch to ? ... my surface started cracking an peeling from the edges after some ten of prints. and the extruder was trash out of the box.
I got a nice Wham Bam build plate. It was pretty expensive but I def makes the whole printing process a lot easier.
@@JaysTechVault i tried to find any system compatible straight out of the box from eu but found no compiciant product. so i got a PrimaCreator FlexPlate-Powder Coated they only had 510x510... i just gotta figure out how to cut it. i wonder can i use an edge sander with cutting blade or do i need to find a water cutting service here. I wonder why is every bed surface 510 or 470 at the max, i wonder did that even fit out of the box on the bed ? ....sadlly i did not run into whambam, though i propably would still have gone with the primacreator as currently mail from the us to europe is a bit cumbersome.
Yea it fit just fine. I’m sure you can make something on your own.
@@JaysTechVault I can second the Wham Bam plate, it's wonderful! Too bad I had to buy it after I trashed my stock build surface. It was early on when my CR-10 Max was still new, I printed a large object covering the whole bed. It printed beautifully, but it stuck well... and with that much surface area I ended up piercing the build surface trying to get my part free. But after experiencing the Wham Bam plate, I've bought them for all my printers (even my msla printer) and I'll never go back.
What a pile of a company, sorry for the trouble dude.
That wobble in the motors is probably bent z screws.
It sounds like it might be quality control issues and you got unlucky if this problem is no where else on the internet
I have one of this and the Z axis suddenly stopped working. But they sent me a new mother board and problem was solved!
Well i bought my cr10-max in June this year and since then, never had any major issue with it.
Bought one in june 2020 - still has not ben able to meke the first print
@@jenspetersen5865 well that printer still printing just fine for me.
had one small issue with corupted sd but that is all
@@jenspetersen5865 and if u didnt make any print at all, you're doing something wrong. Whats happening when u want to print something?
@@grimlord4765 Well since the printer cannot home the Y axis it is not about doing things wrong - it is about the hardware malfunctionning, and it is neither the switch nor the cable, and the replacement board is not loldered properly.
Expect a high probabliity of crap when you buy Creality!
I got two ender 3 v2's and I have like a 98 to 99%% success rate on my prints. Creality isn't that bad IMO.
i wonder how a laser head would work on it ?
Hate to hear you had such a bad time after dropping that much on a printer. I have been afraid to buy a 3D printer just seems like they could end with alot of frustration for me.
All I hear is I have no idea what the fuck im doing and I dont understand the value of hardware. I have a CR 10 MAX and I fken love it, his kid just has no fuken idea what he is doing lol
Wtf are you talking about. It’s not garbage. Frankly built (the goat) says it’s an amazing printer…
Bought a fake cr10 for 120$ from China and it’s working better ... after some basic upgrades.
I have also bought one of these...I believed that I had done a great deal of research before buying ( yes, $1000.00 is a lot of money to me too) I did not see an HONEST review until I saw yours...Thank You...I have had this unit for about 5 months, I have had more failures than successes.
I consider myself technical and yet I have needed to tinker and mess with this unit...I am really disillusioned and frustrated. I too needed it for printing prototypes for work, I am now really behind the 8-ball and scrambling as I wasted my time and money on this unit.
To those that have sent comments that it printed right out of the box perfectly or has been printing 200+ hours...maybe you received the odd ones (that work correctly) or are paid/ sponsored by Creality or it's vendors and everyone else received the standard units of poor quality and used their own money to purchase it.
Ironically this video had an ad that litterally had this shit 3D printer
Yeah, the only good thing these guys have done in a while is the ender 5 plus. The 10s pro line is a complete dumpster fire.
Jeez Louise - I clicked on RUclips reviews for this product because the specs looked really wild ... and 2 for 2 I got the big old THUMBS DOWN. What a shame! I guess, before I plunk down $1000 on my first ever 3D printer, I will look elsewhere. Maybe if enough of you guys complain, Creality - out of Shenzhen , China - will have to do a major overall of their product.
If your gonna buy a 3d printer get an ender 3 I got mine 2 weeks ago and it’s amazing it’s completely stock and if you do have any problems there is a huge community out there that’s willing to help you It’s my first printer but I couldn’t be happier with it yes there are some very minor issues with it but for the price you just can’t beat it
I needed the build volume, I have an FX-800 I love but it’s way to small and can’t print the panels I need for future projects.
Jays Tech Vault how big do u need it ? I’m not saying it’s the best printer for u but the build volume is actually too big for me as I only print small things rn the the longest print is 18h and I’ve got it running now
i had NO problems with the printer, and the first print was super smooth and ive had none of your problems on my printer.
Yeah my motors were bent at a 6* angle.
@@JaysTechVault ahh, totaly understand why it was so crappy then, have you gotten better results?
Bought all new motors and tensioners and got decent prints. Easily spent 80 hours on it though, horrendous experience.
@@JaysTechVault so mutch time lost in rage :( feel bad for you, i had the total opposit, first test cat was superb, to the point where i dont see the seam between the layers.
for me its an amazing machine, but ive only had 36 hours on it, and not a single thing have gone wrong, so far......
Great video and a good warning. Buyer Beware. shame the company is so bad at any customer service.
Thank you, I think I will spend a bit more and get a semi pro printer
The CR-10 S5 might be better it’s still HUGE, but it needs manual leveling
Mine are OK, first print just fine and HQ.
Maybe you get a failed product. Or you didn't know how to use it and judge too fast I think.
Well this is a shame
"such an expensive product" I could understand you if you had paid 10.000 $ - which is still a mid priced printer in that size if you look over the spand of printers - it's a little pathetic i find.. And i have the same printer and problems like you, but i didn't expect it to print like a 10, 20, 30.000 $ printer out of the box..
Grow some thicker skin - i think you're whining..
I feel your pain. Hahaha 😄😄😄
Can you not do a chargeback? I would. For this level of incompetence and refusal to accept a return means im going to my bank
Thanks. I was about to buy it. I wont based on your review
Not defending the printer... but it's mildly laughable that someone who sort of brags with a screenshot about being an "engineer", also mentions his experience with 3d printing, took three weeks to find the issue with the z motors.
I have the same problems like you, all other reviews are paid, will send this shitty printer back
Extreamly boring review
Next time he will use a laser pointer to entertain you. 😊
Hes using big brain
Bad shipping, too bad. thats all.
I have 10 of these. I have had very few problems. Nice, big printer.
If I change filament I getting everytime layer shifting. Do you know how to fix it ?
@@3dg3nesis Ok ... this reply is a year late but here goes: If you are talking about putting a new spool on after the filament has run out, I don't think it's possible to get that to work consistently, especially on a big print. Once the filament runs out, the printer shuts off the bed heater and everything cools down. When you put on a new spool it is almost impossible not to move something on the gantry when you are feeding the new material into the extruder, and adhesion is often bad because the part is cold. The result is layer shift and separation at the point where the print resumed. I machined an extension for the spool holder so I could put on a 5 pound spool. That way I could print large parts without running out.
@@6tartarus6 yes friend thank you
And unlucky experience. Many have received much better printers. Than yours. Just unlucky. Blabls
Agreed. This machine is trash.
Blablabla