I had a “Bosch” o2 sensor kick my a$$ with my sniper. It was going for 10-20 so fast at weird times. I checked everything but the o2 sensor because it was new. I installed a new o2 sensor and found. The one that was acting up was actually fake bosch sensor. I was so mad and happy at the same time because I fixed it. Thank you for your videos
Just had this same issue on a customer car. It would happen after blipping the throttle a few times. IAC would catch the engine and return to idle. You could set your watch to it after that about 3-4 Mississippi and the AFR gauge would sweep clear pegged to 18 and it would stumble and almost die and peg the IAC. It would either catch it and recover, or die. This would only occur after a few blips “small revs” of the engine. Would do it ever single time like clock work. Took out the knockoff Amazon sensor and put a Bosch in it. Problem solved. It does a similar thing now, but only will go to 14.5-15 and recover rather than peg it to 18:1 and die…
Mine use to peg 35.1, but you could smell the fuel... Very rich!!! I could turn it off and, on a few times, and it would run fine, and as long as I would drive it every week, it would have less issues. If it sat for more than a week... It sucked ass. Just replaced it and it seems fine so far. 86 Square Body GMC LS1
I love your channel. Been following since i fired this money pit up. Anyway Ive been having wild afr readings from th TermX’s o2, which is backed up by a stand alone PLX meter(albeit a lil latent with data transfer even w sample turned all the way up) reporting to my digidash. Still im assuming its a bad sensor. Since i cant find anything definitive please, PRETTY PLEASE! Can you tell me will a holley 554-100(ntk sensor) work with. TermX? ANY help wood be fabulous! Most sincerely @meye wits end in Mi
Hey Joe I have a BBC WITH HP HOLLEY it started running really rich one day and to the point it wouldn’t Start the O2 was pegged at 35 it’s a holley Bosch I’ve bought a new NGK 554-100 new plugs an a new set of copper collector gaskets as the headman header collectors O2 is really close to the sensor I haven’t put the new parts in yet!! Two questions Could it run so bad it ruins the plugs ? Stopping it for trying to fire ? Can I use copper RTV on the copper gaskets to guarantee no leaks TIA
Just came across your video. I am having an issue with a new install that I just drove the first time. My afr seems to be reading correctly and then all of a sudden after only a mile or so, the afr readings just stop completly and dont move at all. Stops at different readings every time, maybe 12.50 one time and 14.20 the next. The afr fluctuates like it should, and then just stops fluctuating, and doesnt change any more, no matter what the throttle input is. On the next startup, the afr reads 28.0+ and struggles to start. Once started, the afr comes back down near the commanded reading and then the issue will reappear again. This sounding like an O2 sensor issue or something else? Any info is appreciated. Thanks
My Holley Dominator eats those Bosch wideband sensors for breakfast for some reason. I’m on my forth sensor in about a year. I’m going to try the NTK sensor then if that fails I’m thinking I might have a bad driver with the Dominator.
I'm pretty sure this is exactly what is going on with mine right now.. showing 20:1 at idle and 12.5:1 with some throttle and I can literally see black smoke coming out the hood stack from it being so rich.. I have the 02 in a sampling chamber and was thinking that was the issue, but not I'm thinking it is just a bad sensor..
I have a Terminator X system and I'm using the narrowband bungs on my longtube headers as the location for my Wideband. I feel like I've got a heater control strategy issue. Are these safe to run at 9 or 3 o'clock? Or do they need to be pointing down just a touch?
When my Bosch O2 sensor died on my Sniper EFI it didn't go full lean but it locked itself at 15.5 AFR 90% of the time but still ran perfectly fine and revving it up didnt even change the reading. Replaced the sensor and the issue went away. A failed sensor does not always go full lean
Of course it doesn’t always go full lean. 15.5 is odd though. The most common are full lean or locking at 14.7 I’ve only seen a few lock at full rich. Sometimes they just go crazy and read all over the place. Sometimes they just get real slow and sometimes they appear to be working just fine they just read wrong. I’ve seen them fail in just about every way possible
@@JoeSimpsonAtTempest I was told by several Holley techs that my sensor was fine because it wasn't going full lean but I insisted that it wasnt working correctly. Just wanted to share my odd experience and also say that your recent videos helped me figure out more settings that I didnt understand. Thanks!
Was this a TermX car or HP/Dominator? You said you swapped from a Bosch to an NTK sensor. I know the TermX harness has the right plug for the NTK, but I thought the ECU just couldn't run the NTK sensor.
Can you go over the different NTK sensors? Have heard about Lab grade vs other ones. How many NTK ones are there? Have been wondering if one from rockauto would work with EFI systems. A lot cheaper than getting them from Holley or Fueltech, etc.
What you’re saying makes perfect sense however I like to take a different approach with my own car. I give closed loop and learn a bunch of authority, my logic is, when something goes wrong, it goes a long way off making it very obvious something is wrong straight away, if it’s only allowed to go 20% it might not be noticeable straight away and be 20% lean under full power and melt everything.
Multiple ways to do everything. I’ve probably tuned several hundred cars just 100% open loop so it’s my go to. Closed loop seems to do more harm than good when you average out the good vs the bad
I'm not on the fence about Joe's course I do need to finish this engine and get it on a dyno with a carburetor to make sure everything is correct. I've heard some pretty bad stories of people trying to do a first start with EFI. That won't be for awhile unfortunately. BTW this problem would have been very hard to find without a Dyno.
My car has been acting funny. I had it tuned and all did well, now when accelerating at wot it's cuts out dies and backfires kinda a loss for words even after new plugs and everything
@@or-ian6973 come to find out when I was taking it to get tuned it rained. I didn't think. Nothing of it but make a long story short some how water go into one of the sealed relays and turned into a green copper corroded mess. Also a bad cam sensor. Both have been replaced and runs. Just haven't had a chance to take it out and test
Just had this same issue on a customer car. It would happen after blipping the throttle a few times. IAC would catch the engine and return to idle. You could set your watch to it after that about 3-4 Mississippi and the AFR gauge would sweep clear pegged to 18 and it would stumble and almost die and peg the IAC. It would either catch it and recover, or die. This would only occur after a few blips “small revs” of the engine. Would do it ever single time like clock work. Took out the knockoff Amazon sensor and put a Bosch in it. Problem solved. It does a similar thing now, but only will go to 14.5-15 and recover rather than peg it to 18:1 and die…
DUDE NICE BEANIE
here for broken spark plug pics
When we get mine close, can we implement these safeties like joe talked about? I'm sure you already do, limiting the closed loop authority
I had a “Bosch” o2 sensor kick my a$$ with my sniper. It was going for 10-20 so fast at weird times. I checked everything but the o2 sensor because it was new. I installed a new o2 sensor and found. The one that was acting up was actually fake bosch sensor. I was so mad and happy at the same time because I fixed it. Thank you for your videos
Just had this same issue on a customer car. It would happen after blipping the throttle a few times. IAC would catch the engine and return to idle.
You could set your watch to it after that about 3-4 Mississippi and the AFR gauge would sweep clear pegged to 18 and it would stumble and almost die and peg the IAC. It would either catch it and recover, or die.
This would only occur after a few blips “small revs” of the engine. Would do it ever single time like clock work. Took out the knockoff Amazon sensor and put a Bosch in it. Problem solved. It does a similar thing now, but only will go to 14.5-15 and recover rather than peg it to 18:1 and die…
Joe's videos are the best!
Mine use to peg 35.1, but you could smell the fuel... Very rich!!!
I could turn it off and, on a few times, and it would run fine, and as long as I would drive it every week, it would have less issues. If it sat for more than a week... It sucked ass.
Just replaced it and it seems fine so far.
86 Square Body GMC LS1
The truth every time keep it up 👍
I love your channel. Been following since i fired this money pit up. Anyway Ive been having wild afr readings from th TermX’s o2, which is backed up by a stand alone PLX meter(albeit a lil latent with data transfer even w sample turned all the way up) reporting to my digidash. Still im assuming its a bad sensor. Since i cant find anything definitive please, PRETTY PLEASE! Can you tell me will a holley 554-100(ntk sensor) work with. TermX? ANY help wood be fabulous!
Most sincerely
@meye wits end in Mi
Just for reference. When my Terminator X o2 went bad it would add 5% fuel every WOT pull. Didnt realize until my eyes were starting to burn lol
Is the NTK more reliable than the Bosh?
If your on the fence about Joe's course, it's definitely worth it.
Hey Joe I have a BBC WITH HP HOLLEY it started running really rich one day and to the point it wouldn’t
Start the O2 was pegged at 35 it’s a holley Bosch I’ve bought a new NGK 554-100 new plugs an a new set of copper collector gaskets as the headman header collectors O2 is really close to the sensor
I haven’t put the new parts in yet!!
Two questions
Could it run so bad it ruins the plugs ? Stopping it for trying to fire ?
Can I use copper RTV on the copper gaskets to guarantee no leaks
TIA
You mentioned that the HP or Dominator O2 sensors are more expensive... aren't they all Bosch LSU4.9 unless you specifically get an NTK one?
No. The sniper and term x use the 4.9
I had my original Holley sensor, go out and heard you could just replace it with the Bosch is Holley‘s specially calibrated that the Bosch won’t work?
Just came across your video. I am having an issue with a new install that I just drove the first time. My afr seems to be reading correctly and then all of a sudden after only a mile or so, the afr readings just stop completly and dont move at all. Stops at different readings every time, maybe 12.50 one time and 14.20 the next. The afr fluctuates like it should, and then just stops fluctuating, and doesnt change any more, no matter what the throttle input is. On the next startup, the afr reads 28.0+ and struggles to start. Once started, the afr comes back down near the commanded reading and then the issue will reappear again. This sounding like an O2 sensor issue or something else? Any info is appreciated. Thanks
My Holley Dominator eats those Bosch wideband sensors for breakfast for some reason. I’m on my forth sensor in about a year. I’m going to try the NTK sensor then if that fails I’m thinking I might have a bad driver with the Dominator.
Great info thanks
I'm pretty sure this is exactly what is going on with mine right now.. showing 20:1 at idle and 12.5:1 with some throttle and I can literally see black smoke coming out the hood stack from it being so rich..
I have the 02 in a sampling chamber and was thinking that was the issue, but not I'm thinking it is just a bad sensor..
I have a Terminator X system and I'm using the narrowband bungs on my longtube headers as the location for my Wideband. I feel like I've got a heater control strategy issue. Are these safe to run at 9 or 3 o'clock? Or do they need to be pointing down just a touch?
What does it mean when the o2 readings jump around while
When my Bosch O2 sensor died on my Sniper EFI it didn't go full lean but it locked itself at 15.5 AFR 90% of the time but still ran perfectly fine and revving it up didnt even change the reading. Replaced the sensor and the issue went away.
A failed sensor does not always go full lean
Of course it doesn’t always go full lean. 15.5 is odd though. The most common are full lean or locking at 14.7 I’ve only seen a few lock at full rich. Sometimes they just go crazy and read all over the place. Sometimes they just get real slow and sometimes they appear to be working just fine they just read wrong.
I’ve seen them fail in just about every way possible
@@JoeSimpsonAtTempest I was told by several Holley techs that my sensor was fine because it wasn't going full lean but I insisted that it wasnt working correctly. Just wanted to share my odd experience and also say that your recent videos helped me figure out more settings that I didnt understand. Thanks!
Was this a TermX car or HP/Dominator? You said you swapped from a Bosch to an NTK sensor. I know the TermX harness has the right plug for the NTK, but I thought the ECU just couldn't run the NTK sensor.
It’s an HP ecu. You can’t run the ntk on a term X
He said HP, at beginning.
@@funfun8095 my bad. Was listening while getting ready for work and must have missed it.
@@Ribbityibzki Ah, ok. ;)
Thanks Joe my tuner turned me onto this video. This is very similar to what my truck is doing .
Woah live comparison data, that's slick!
Good work joe
I understand closed loop can save your bacon but it can also screw you over big time haha
Can you go over the different NTK sensors? Have heard about Lab grade vs other ones. How many NTK ones are there? Have been wondering if one from rockauto would work with EFI systems. A lot cheaper than getting them from Holley or Fueltech, etc.
The lab grade etc is for other controllers. With Holley I’d either just get the Holley sensor or the mad racing sensor.
What you’re saying makes perfect sense however I like to take a different approach with my own car. I give closed loop and learn a bunch of authority, my logic is, when something goes wrong, it goes a long way off making it very obvious something is wrong straight away, if it’s only allowed to go 20% it might not be noticeable straight away and be 20% lean under full power and melt everything.
Multiple ways to do everything. I’ve probably tuned several hundred cars just 100% open loop so it’s my go to. Closed loop seems to do more harm than good when you average out the good vs the bad
Great video, weird to have a O2 fail like that too.
I'm not on the fence about Joe's course I do need to finish this engine and get it on a dyno with a carburetor to make sure everything is correct. I've heard some pretty bad stories of people trying to do a first start with EFI. That won't be for awhile unfortunately.
BTW this problem would have been very hard to find without a Dyno.
My car has been acting funny. I had it tuned and all did well, now when accelerating at wot it's cuts out dies and backfires kinda a loss for words even after new plugs and everything
What was the issue?
@@or-ian6973 come to find out when I was taking it to get tuned it rained. I didn't think. Nothing of it but make a long story short some how water go into one of the sealed relays and turned into a green copper corroded mess. Also a bad cam sensor. Both have been replaced and runs. Just haven't had a chance to take it out and test
Yo give me a call sir !!!!
Just had this same issue on a customer car. It would happen after blipping the throttle a few times. IAC would catch the engine and return to idle.
You could set your watch to it after that about 3-4 Mississippi and the AFR gauge would sweep clear pegged to 18 and it would stumble and almost die and peg the IAC. It would either catch it and recover, or die.
This would only occur after a few blips “small revs” of the engine. Would do it ever single time like clock work. Took out the knockoff Amazon sensor and put a Bosch in it. Problem solved. It does a similar thing now, but only will go to 14.5-15 and recover rather than peg it to 18:1 and die…