Having just started my lower level these videos are a real help, did not know about the sharpie issue so a pencil I will go. I am an old dog, but watching your channel learning some new tricks... thanks for sharing
I model O gauge but I've learned so much from you and your channel. The ability you have of explaining your rationale so I can use it on my layout has proven valuable & makes your videos interesting and extremely helpful and I thank you for that. You talked about having red ink wicking up through your ballast & that sounds like a story line for cleaning up a haz-mat spill from a leaking rail car with police, fire, railroad company and such related vehicles. Also, I hope you will forgive me for having some hot tea and not coffee, lol.
If I could make a suggestion on what has worked for me. Since you are using Anyrail 6, you could print out your layout in 1 to 1 scale on 8.5 x 11 pieces pf paper. When Anyrail 6 creates the pages, they provide reference marks to you can tape all the pages together. Once you have your layout in 1 to 1 scale, you can place it on your benchwork and get a really good idea what your track plan is going to look like. I usually cut out the paper to the outer edges of the track. Then to transfer the track plan to the benchwork, use a pounce wheel and transfer paper (the same technique used to transfer patterns to fabric) and trace out the centerline of your Anyrail printout. Then you can use the centerline to lay all of your roadbed and you are done. This is definitely one of the features of Anyrail 6 that I like, being able to quickly and easily create full scale printouts for transferring the layout to the benchwork. Also, great tip on not using sharpies. I found out the hard way with a red sharpie as well.
I took that idea one step further and printed my track plan from Anyraill to a full size PDF and took it over to my friendly UPS Store where they printed it on a large format printer. There's fewer paper segments to piece together and it worked great. All you really need to know from the store is how wide the large format printer can print in order to format your PDF and the track plan comes out in a continuous strip.
@@daveb4028 I actually printed mine on the plotter at work, but a print shop is definitely an option. I mentioned the printing at home method as this is probably the most accessible to most people. But your solution is definitely a great option.
I finally made it back to watch the progress of the new addition! A 5 foot long ADM grain elevator? That makes mine 10 feet? I think I'll do a little compression of mine.
Between having a really crazy day at work and all the insanity going on in the world right now, this is a welcome respite. Nice to see the progress on your layout expansion.
Hi Ron. Great video. What about using a CAD program to transfer the trackplan to the benchwork? After I printed out each segment of the plan and tapped it to the benchwork, I used a Machinist Punch and a Pounce Wheel to transfer the centerline to the benchwork. Goes much faster than one might think. The CAD program automatically has easements built into the trackplan. Used 3rd Planit software to construct my 18'x13' Brooke Valley HO Scale layout and it saved a lot of grief. Not the best way I'm sure, just another way of getting to the same place. Thank You Ron for sharing this with us.
Hi Ron, track plan is looking great. Are you also going to super-elevate your main curve? Looking forward to see what you have laid for next week. Track laying is fun!😃 - Jason
Hi Ron. You were the guy that turned my on to AnyRail. As per Troy(below), why would you not just print 1:1 and lay that on the bench? I'm learning tons from your channel. Big thanks....
Hi. Ron's Trains happy new year I like your show regarding how you can use the Anyway 6 software to make the tracking plans. So my question is there a printing out for this plan from this software and how I can have it. Thank you
I'm surprised you didn't print your plan 1:1 and lay the sheets on your baseboards, instead of redrafting everything directly on the wood. I'm intrigued on your next steps too - covering up the nice lines with cork (etc) roadbed, and then having to figure out where to put the actual tracks afterwards!
I’m wondering about printing anyrail 1:1 sheets (idk if he was using that at the time) and then cutting away the non-track areas and either drawing around the track diagram, or just gluing down the actual paper and placing roadbed and track straight on top of that.
Good day Ron's. I like your show it is useful, I like to know from your experience what type turnout of PECO System I can use it in my layout #13 from ATLAS Book # 11 p# 20. It has 5 turnout # 4 by ATLAS Cod 100, 3 L.H, and 2 R.H by using the DCC System. Since there 2 type of PECO Turnout one is Elecrofrog, and Insulfrog. Best regards to you for your time.
Great question. The formula is grade = rise ÷ run. In your illustration, rise = 24". Grade is 3% or 0.03. Thus 0.03=24÷X. Solve for X. 0.03X=24 X=24÷0.03 X=800"=66' 6.6" To figure how long the run in a helix is, use the circumference of the center line of the track. So 16" radius is 32" diameter. Circumference id pi x diameter so 3.14159 x 32 = 100.5" of run per turn in the helix. I hope this helps.
good vid... it is IMPORTANT to see what will fit in a given space beforehand for your own sanity... relying on a track plan in your head will make you frustrated... recently i had a nice track plan in my head, thought my passing sidings would hold 10 - 12 cars... started laying out rail and switches on the benchwork to discover my sidings would hold FIVE cars at the most, WTF??!??!??!... i was heated... what's the saying, "everyman is great, in his dreams"... lol... that goes for model railroad track plans to
Most modern day lumber yards have sheds that they put lumber bunndles in when the unload them from rail cars or trucks .one size on one side 8 ft thru 20 ft and a different size on the other.the to level sheds that i saw on your lay out are for smsll lumber yards in a town
As the trackplan was created in AnyRail, it would have been far simpler and quicker to just print out the centre line for all curves including easements.
I know that you are an N scale user, But I have a problem. I inherited some time ago a lot of HO scale locomotives and rolling stock along with track and some buildings from my uncle. I have around twenty locomotives, almost fifty railcars, and way too much track (no built in roadbed as this is stuff from the early 70s to late 90s). How would I create a layout that is small and realistic, but not overly expensive. The reason being is that I am about to finish my first semester of college and have less that $5000 to my name (maybe $9000 counting the car for my profile pic, and yes I am an 18 year old who owns a 79 year old Cadillac). I think a small layout would be a good idea for me as I see it as a stress reliever (college sucks). I do have a few ideas on how to cram it into my (very) small room, but I feel like it would be wise to ask someone who has been in the hobby for quite some time.
This process seems unnecessarily complex for no reason. You use Anyrail, I use SCARM. Print out the portion of the track plan to scale, tape the sheets together, lay them down over carbon paper, and trace. I used 11x17 paper to print out my entire 11x13 layout. Standard letter paper would use a bit more Scotch tape. A small pack of carbon paper is all that was needed, as the sheets can be used multiple times. Some layout builders actually glue the track plan to the sub roadbed. Drawing reference grid lines, transferring measurements...this is far more complicated...and antiquated...than it needs to be.
See how I install feeder wires to track on my layout in this video: ruclips.net/video/o0ogBn0moCo/видео.html
Excellent yet again.
Having just started my lower level these videos are a real help, did not know about the sharpie issue so a pencil I will go. I am an old dog, but watching your channel learning some new tricks... thanks for sharing
I model O gauge but I've learned so much from you and your channel. The ability you have of explaining your rationale so I can use it on my layout has proven valuable & makes your videos interesting and extremely helpful and I thank you for that. You talked about having red ink wicking up through your ballast & that sounds like a story line for cleaning up a haz-mat spill from a leaking rail car with police, fire, railroad company and such related vehicles. Also, I hope you will forgive me for having some hot tea and not coffee, lol.
If I could make a suggestion on what has worked for me.
Since you are using Anyrail 6, you could print out your layout in 1 to 1 scale on 8.5 x 11 pieces pf paper. When Anyrail 6 creates the pages, they provide reference marks to you can tape all the pages together.
Once you have your layout in 1 to 1 scale, you can place it on your benchwork and get a really good idea what your track plan is going to look like. I usually cut out the paper to the outer edges of the track.
Then to transfer the track plan to the benchwork, use a pounce wheel and transfer paper (the same technique used to transfer patterns to fabric) and trace out the centerline of your Anyrail printout.
Then you can use the centerline to lay all of your roadbed and you are done.
This is definitely one of the features of Anyrail 6 that I like, being able to quickly and easily create full scale printouts for transferring the layout to the benchwork.
Also, great tip on not using sharpies. I found out the hard way with a red sharpie as well.
I took that idea one step further and printed my track plan from Anyraill to a full size PDF and took it over to my friendly UPS Store where they printed it on a large format printer. There's fewer paper segments to piece together and it worked great. All you really need to know from the store is how wide the large format printer can print in order to format your PDF and the track plan comes out in a continuous strip.
@@daveb4028 I actually printed mine on the plotter at work, but a print shop is definitely an option. I mentioned the printing at home method as this is probably the most accessible to most people.
But your solution is definitely a great option.
Scarm also has this option and it works great
I absolutely hate waiting for your vids to come out! 😆 Keep up the good work Ron 👍🏻
I finally made it back to watch the progress of the new addition! A 5 foot long ADM grain elevator? That makes mine 10 feet? I think I'll do a little compression of mine.
Yes, if I modeled the prototype full scale it would be a bit over 7', but no space for that.
thank you for detail video
from Australia
I really like how you made the grid before you placed the tack plan down. Definitely going to do that next time.
Great video Ron! We're looking forward to how this all comes together.
Looking real good Mr. Ron. Bob
Between having a really crazy day at work and all the insanity going on in the world right now, this is a welcome respite. Nice to see the progress on your layout expansion.
Great episode today.
Hi Ron. Great video. What about using a CAD program to transfer the trackplan to the benchwork? After I printed out each segment of the plan and tapped it to the benchwork, I used a Machinist Punch and a Pounce Wheel to transfer the centerline to the benchwork. Goes much faster than one might think. The CAD program automatically has easements built into the trackplan. Used 3rd Planit software to construct my 18'x13' Brooke Valley HO Scale layout and it saved a lot of grief. Not the best way I'm sure, just another way of getting to the same place.
Thank You Ron for sharing this with us.
Hi Ron, track plan is looking great. Are you also going to super-elevate your main curve? Looking forward to see what you have laid for next week. Track laying is fun!😃 - Jason
Very informative
Hi Ron. You were the guy that turned my on to AnyRail. As per Troy(below), why would you not just print 1:1 and lay that on the bench? I'm learning tons from your channel. Big thanks....
Love the video, Ron! Quick question about your turn outs, are you using electro turnouts or isolated turnouts? Thanks
Hi. Ron's Trains happy new year I like your show regarding how you can use the Anyway 6 software to make the tracking plans. So my question is there a printing out for this plan from this software and how I can have it. Thank you
Ron - thanks for another great video but what type of turn outs do you use in this video?
I use Peco Insulfrog Medium Radius Code 80 turnouts almost exclusively.
I'm surprised you didn't print your plan 1:1 and lay the sheets on your baseboards, instead of redrafting everything directly on the wood. I'm intrigued on your next steps too - covering up the nice lines with cork (etc) roadbed, and then having to figure out where to put the actual tracks afterwards!
I’m wondering about printing anyrail 1:1 sheets (idk if he was using that at the time) and then cutting away the non-track areas and either drawing around the track diagram, or just gluing down the actual paper and placing roadbed and track straight on top of that.
Great show; how big is your room to accommodate your layout?
nice video
What did you use for the track template,
Ron, Why didn't you use the 1:1 print feature in Anyrail and just layout the track that way
Its just a lot of paper and ink and wasn't really necessary IMHO.
Great job Ron everything is looking great those switches here using look pretty small what radius are you using keep up the great work. Gary
Is the track plan that you have on paper hand drawn or printed out from ?
Ron , why not print the plan full size 1/1 size on AnyRail
Good day Ron's. I like your show it is useful, I like to know from your experience what type turnout of PECO System I can use it in my layout #13 from ATLAS Book # 11 p# 20. It has 5 turnout # 4 by ATLAS Cod 100, 3 L.H, and 2 R.H by using the DCC System. Since there 2 type of PECO Turnout one is Elecrofrog, and Insulfrog. Best regards to you for your time.
I have a question for you. How do you calculate a length in a rise. For instance if I want to go up two feet at a 3 degree angle.
Great question. The formula is grade = rise ÷ run. In your illustration, rise = 24". Grade is 3% or 0.03. Thus 0.03=24÷X. Solve for X.
0.03X=24
X=24÷0.03
X=800"=66' 6.6"
To figure how long the run in a helix is, use the circumference of the center line of the track. So 16" radius is 32" diameter. Circumference id pi x diameter so 3.14159 x 32 = 100.5" of run per turn in the helix.
I hope this helps.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks I could not find this formula any where
good vid... it is IMPORTANT to see what will fit in a given space beforehand for your own sanity... relying on a track plan in your head will make you frustrated... recently i had a nice track plan in my head, thought my passing sidings would hold 10 - 12 cars... started laying out rail and switches on the benchwork to discover my sidings would hold FIVE cars at the most, WTF??!??!??!... i was heated... what's the saying, "everyman is great, in his dreams"... lol... that goes for model railroad track plans to
Most modern day lumber yards have sheds that they put lumber bunndles in when the unload them from rail cars or trucks .one size on one side 8 ft thru 20 ft and a different size on the other.the to level sheds that i saw on your lay out are for smsll lumber yards in a town
As the trackplan was created in AnyRail, it would have been far simpler and quicker to just print out the centre line for all curves including easements.
thats IF you own the fullversion of the software
You can also print out the track plan at full scale (even in the free version)
Does the chalk bleed through?
If I only had expansion room!
que hermoso video donde se consigue un tren a escala ho en mexico no ay
I know that you are an N scale user, But I have a problem. I inherited some time ago a lot of HO scale locomotives and rolling stock along with track and some buildings from my uncle. I have around twenty locomotives, almost fifty railcars, and way too much track (no built in roadbed as this is stuff from the early 70s to late 90s). How would I create a layout that is small and realistic, but not overly expensive. The reason being is that I am about to finish my first semester of college and have less that $5000 to my name (maybe $9000 counting the car for my profile pic, and yes I am an 18 year old who owns a 79 year old Cadillac). I think a small layout would be a good idea for me as I see it as a stress reliever (college sucks). I do have a few ideas on how to cram it into my (very) small room, but I feel like it would be wise to ask someone who has been in the hobby for quite some time.
I used a sharpie
I just traced the pieces I need and just connected them by the trace
Election day finally,ads will soon be over
This process seems unnecessarily complex for no reason. You use Anyrail, I use SCARM. Print out the portion of the track plan to scale, tape the sheets together, lay them down over carbon paper, and trace. I used 11x17 paper to print out my entire 11x13 layout. Standard letter paper would use a bit more Scotch tape. A small pack of carbon paper is all that was needed, as the sheets can be used multiple times. Some layout builders actually glue the track plan to the sub roadbed.
Drawing reference grid lines, transferring measurements...this is far more complicated...and antiquated...than it needs to be.
I'm not sure about easements it just makes it even sharper elsewhere in the curve.