Excellent video Cam. One of the most heartbreaking situations for any reefer to find themselves in. Almost 4 years ago we did have to remove our fish and leave the tank fallow for 3 months and it was one of the worst experiences I've had in the hobby. Whilst we still don't have a UV steriliser on our system, nothing goes near our tank without going through quarantine.
Onya Cam your a legend. And probably one of only people amongst us commenting that is actually university qualified to speak with authority in this area. I run a 120 watt emperor UV following white spot 10 months ago. Never ever had a problem since. So for all practical purposes it is gone. Done
Great video! I am definitely a believer in the power of UV sterilizers from my own experiences with and without. I would never run another aquarium without one. Looking forward to the update!
No one would believe me in a forum I use when I told them I used UV to cure my tank of marine whitespot. I basically did the same as you but with a smaller unit. I will never run a marine aquarium without a UV filter on it. They just prevent so many problems. Great job and I look forward to seeing the results.
You can definitely use a smaller unit than we did here, but it takes longer. The best option is to have the UV running from the start as prevention of course. Cam
As Cam mentioned at the end of the video, you don't eradicate Ich without removing the fish, you just control it. Much better to properly QT fish going in so there is no Ich/velvet in the tank.
@@marcelrodriguez2067 I agree but it can be difficult to remove the fish. So much easier to prevent than fix the problem. Properly QT and treat before they get to the display.
Hi cam I brilliant video are normal .. I’m currently fighting Marine WS now I went out and brought a 80watt DD (uk) uv which is equal to 110watt I’m putting a 1000 ltrs an hour through it my tanks 300ltrs again to max exposure time.. but I agree totally with what you said you don’t need chemicals to best WS de-stress the fish feed well and add the biggest uv possible..to get the beat uvc time to change the DNA of the parasite 🦠 or kill it out right.. I also added ozone But I’m glad you have clarified this in the hobby as there’s a lot of bad advice out there.. Maybe do an Ozone video next would be good.. Best wishes buddy from the uk 👍🏼👍🏼
It is inaccurate information. UV does NOT eradicate ich. At best it might help control theront populations. UV is a band-aid, not a solution by any means.
"eradicating white spot and velvet without chemicals or removing fish" Me: "yeah, this is gonna be total bs, I thought I liked this guy" *out comes the 7ft, tank turret sized UV* Me: "ok, I stand corrected and I still like this guy"
I recently had my powder blue tang get stressed with a new arrival in my tank. As a result white spot all over him. I feed with vitamins and other additives added to the foods and was generous with feedings. I also have a big UV system on my tank running all the time. But the best part of the way I destroyed the white spot was the three cleaner shrimp in my tank. The fish are always using them. Its is interesting to watch the tang swim up to the shrimp, and they clean the hell out of him. Within three days he calmed down about the member of the tank, and the white spot was gone in four more days. Everyone is fat and happy again. GO Cleaner shrimp!!!!
Interesting solution as an alternative to having a tank fallow with fish removed for months. Really pleased you talked about exposure rating as it is something rarely discussed. Is there any reason, other than efficiency, why you wouldn't want to "overdo" exposure? Example, white spot or velvet treatment.. do the higher value? Does killing protozoa also kill algae or is it you need to target one or the other and plan for specific requirement?
Great video Cam! Always trust your advice cos it's backed by research and experience. Would be awesome to see you share some of the research that you use ☺️. See you guys in the shop 😁
Great video, 100% correct on exposure time for the dose required. No more than 25 gallons per minute/1500 GPH. We just installed one on our 1000 gallon aquarium, be sure to check us out on RUclips as part 16 just got released in the series.
To all those that say that this doesn't work how many trials have you run on tanks with white spot / velvet outbreaks using a correctly size UV? I can guarantee that Cam has used this method on 20+ tanks with success. I can personally vouch for UV eradicating velvet in my display tank. (2000L with a 150Watt UV) If you can point to any other study or trial that has been completed showing that this method doesn't work I'd be happy to review my stance. Science is all about proving theories with trials and I think the results speak for themselves Remember there is still no excuse for poor husbandry and not QT'ing UV is just insurance. Plus it keeps all the algae under control aswell.
Modern science is actually "all about" disproving hypotheses and theories. We are researching in the era, where all we know for sure is what we can disprove. It is called the falsification principle. By proving a theory, we are not learning something new as much as we are cementing that theory as the best truth available to us at this moment in time. Other than that, I agree with your post 😊 Best regards, Tom-André Thomsen Norwegian M.D. and reefer
I’m trying this. I have a 375 gallons reef tank with 6 tangs all healthy but i want a powder blue and always get white spots and dyed. I have a 57w uv but always running pump at full speed. I just reduced the flow to minimum to see the results. 🙏🙏🙏 Hopefully this will do it.
That information is very interesting if my fish ever get white spot this will definitely be something to think about but I really never buy new fish and I have been very lucky so far.
Hey Ken! I run UV 24/7, here in Colorado (works at altitude too), and swear by UV's ability to eradicate Ich/Velvet etc. All my bigger systems have UV plumbed in from the getgo. Good advice!
Thanks mate! I think the problems people have with UV is when they use undersized sterilisers. Nice to hear others understand how effective it can be. Cam
I have a 12 gallon long and ended up with a velvet outbreak. I have a small internal UV sterilizer that doesn’t seem to do much. I would love to make a setup like yours. What wattage and flow would I need to have the same affect? I know I need a sterilizer that’s adjustable down to the correct flow rate. How do I calculate so I end up with a large enough sterilizer to take care of my tank?
Some say there's ick in every tank even if you quarantine, fish are able to fight it off if they are healthy and happy. Addition of a new fish must have stressed out existing fish. Recently my tang had some coral glue on its upper lip for a week and developed ick. (All my fish had been quarantine prior)
That’s a $10 -$15k system that was undone by the lack of a $500 quarantine tank setup. I’m guilty myself of not having a quarantine tank and regretted it fully.
No it doesnt, its a myth. UV only works with LONG exposure time and low flow. Hense why he has a 7 foot long 300w+ uv sterilizer, the smaller UV lights like 36w pond sterilizers and under dont do jack shit to Ich. Ive been in the hobby for decades and its just another waste of money
Good question. I don’t use my big drainage hose on tanks that are infected. If the infestation is bad enough I won’t even use my gear to pump water in which means bucketing water😞
I have a 120 with 30 gal sump..1 tang 1 angel..5 cardinals..2 clowms..trigger wrasse.and blenny...got ich..got a 25 watt aqua uv..recommends 400 gph to kill at 90,000...what would you recommend I do..maxi jet 1200 290 gph...or less like 100 gph...I get that will give more killing power..but do I need higher turnover rate...also..I can only mount above sump...pump is by filter pad roller and output is by return pump...I also wonder if ich makes it thru filter roller or even to sump
Off topic a little, but does anyone know what the plumbing "part" is called that he screws onto the ends of the UV unit (the nut and plate connected to the hose)? I am trying to source something similar for a DIY project but can't find the part.
Good to see your take on what Seems like a controversial but important topic. Makes sense. So When must you change the UV bulb to be sure it is still working to kill the pests?
@@GalleryAquaticaTV I live in the US, but given the success you've had with this method, oversized UV sterilizers should be available to rent! That'd be awesome
What happened to the Regal Angel?? Or was it a Regal Tang?? Just to be clear UV is for control, you won't completely remove it with UV. If you did, you wouldn't need to add a further smaller unit. Still better to control than suffer the losses. What are your thoughts on velvet, remaining on the gills, not always dropping off?? Hence, always on the fish, never comes off to go into UV?? Hence, need to treat with copper or Chloroquine phosphate. Cheers
The Regal Angel died as expected. UV can be used for eradication, but we didn’t want to leave the big unit there given it’s an office, so in this case you’re right it is control. I don’t believe velvet has a different lifecycle on the gills to other parts of the fish, so UV is still an option. Cam
Hi Cam, how successful was the treatment on this tank? Did the Ich return back after the treatment. I am in a similar situation at the moment and I am thinking of getting a larger unit like this. This is the second time this has happened and the first time I had even let the DT fallow for 80 days. Not sure how it got back in the tank again without even adding any new fist. All the other fish were also treated with copper. I already have a 57W UV twist plumbed into the plumbing but I don't think it is doing a great job. Any help is much appreciated mate. Thank you
This was totally successful, zero fish losses. When we took the big UV off we fixed up the smaller UV (changed its bulb) and I haven’t seen any signs of disease since. You can link UV Twists together, so maybe get another one of those. Otherwise it might not have the right flow through it or it may need a new bulb. Cam
It’s going well, no fish losses and the coral is growing really quickly. Unfortunately the tank is up for sale as the owners have to move to a different office and can’t fit the tank in the new place. Cam
Hi Gallery Aquatica TV team.. I have a 500L system, pretty new - but already full of fish, live rock and a lot of coral. Since day one I’ve run 2 x 45w UV on it. Would you say it’s an adequate amount to keep any waterborne parasites like ich & velvet at bay if they had already somehow found their way into my tank? Cheers
Great information. How long is the projected time you will have this device on the tank? Is there any plans top place a permanent UV sterilizer on this system moving forward? Thank you for sharing!
@@GalleryAquaticaTV do you agree that this does NOT truly eradicate the ICH, since if it did then you wouldn't need the "maintenance" UV sterilizer afterward? TTM and quarantining would increase the odds of having a truly protozoan free tank.
drdavethedude it’s important to execute as much precautions to prevent issues as possible. Quarantine is an excellent precautionary practice. But don’t forget most of the hobbyists here use natural seawater for regular water changes. Some people even believe protozoan parasites can be transferred via introducing new corals.
For a preventive measure you should aim for once per hour. if you already have an outbreak as high as you can go making sure you are within the exposure flow rates for your UV
Correct, however if you’re lucky enough to catch velvet before you lose too many fish it is actually easier to eradicate as it requires a much lower exposure of UV. Cam
My aqua 25watt flow rate is at 350 it's required to run 400 GPH. And 350 is all I can get on my Cor 20 because it's tied into my main and it's at 100 percent. Is 350 GPH enough or should I put another pump on it ?? thank you
I’ve seen a few different opinions on this, and I’ve chosen to go with the Emperor Aquatics listed exposure rate. Partly because it’s the highest I’ve seen, so if you hit that you can be sure it’s enough to kill WS in one pass through. Cam
UV won’t “fully eradicate” but it does a great job decimating the ich population where fish seldom shows white spot. Ich is still in the system though.
Gallery Aquatica TV Yes Marine Ich (ie the Cryptocaryon parasite). Not all the Cryptocaryon will flow through the UV so it won’t 100% eradicate but it will decrease the population so the fish can live and manage.
I know a lot of people are under the misconception you can’t eradicate MARINE WHITESPOT with UV, hence my desire to document cases in which I do. This tank will only ever be an example of UV as a control, however we’ll do a video in the future in which we demonstrate the ability to use it for eradication. We’ll do this when we can set up a tank specifically for this purpose, as opposed to a client’s tank like this one. Cam
In a tank with a small number of low-susceptible fish it can help, however I don’t think it’s a replacement for a properly rated UV or good quarantine. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV I have a royal gramma that has been scratching himself on rocks and on sandbed. We suspect ich, in your experience, what could it be. There are small white spots on hime but were not sure if it's sand particles on him or ich.
iv got regal tang that gets few white spots from time to time but go away on there own and never goes to the other fish! Dont you think the fish immune system can just fight off few spots!
Definitely some tanks can have recurring whitespot that never really causes a problem and “disappears” by itself. This generally takes a low stress tank in which the fish aren’t overcrowded, are happy and well conditioned. Their natural immune system can fight it off, but it’s definitely a good sign that you keep your tank in a good state. Cam
Oh I'm late to the party! Very interesting and such a ballers uv unit and statement Cam! Of course can you kill microscopic animals with UV, you can even kill humans, as Cam says, it's a matter of exposure. Makes sense. I visited some public aquariums last year, and boy oh boy the UV units, sand filters and ozone filters those guys run, they can sterilize everything and the thousands of unquarantined fish are healthy. That being said, we can all agree that prevention and quarantine is still a great idea for hobbyists. Eradication is still a viable term when the eradicated is reduced to a non viable/visible/lethal population, so this also makes sense in regard to Cam's strategy, knock them down hard, and then keep them down. Also notice that the pump is placed in the display, in the direction of the flow. The theronts will inevitably be pushed towards it and sucked up. Much better than relying on the small overflow suction area. Cam where's that patreon page yet? I want to show you my acropora I can keep because of you guys :D
@@GalleryAquaticaTV And you always have the best and most interesting videos! I'm still waiting for that SPS mothership so I can copy your methods ;) I'm getting some weird STN from the growth edge on some acro's frustrating as all hell, so I need some Cam the champ guidance ;)
Yes worked well. Watch the follow up video. 6 weeks later no fish showed any signs of white spot. Search “Beating White Spot the Fish Guy way - the results”. The 2nd video should pop up also.
I think that will be their plan from now on, but sometimes people can’t help but buy a pretty fish they see in a shop, and some shops don’t look at the health of the fish they sell. Cam
It works best for Velvet as velvet only requires a low exposure level. If it “didn’t work” that means there was a problem with the way it was used, or more likely it was a brand designed for freshwater. Cam
Im all for QT fish no exceptions, if you cant QT you shouldnt have certain fish specially tangs!!! The price of UVs is so expensive compared to jist QT your fish and never introducing ich to your tank in the first place...
Not true, because not every “spot” will attach to a host anyway. All you need to do is remove most of the free living stage and over time the parasite number will go down, eventually to zero. I’ve used this system on literally dozens of tanks with total success. Cam
The positive bacteria are on substrate therefore you do not have any negative impact on your bio system, just only turn UV off when adding bacteria to give them the time to sattle on substrate.
I feel like you guys aren't even trying to hide the fact this channel is all one big leatherman advertisement anymore
lol! Now I just need Leatherman to come to the party with an actual sponsorship😂
Excellent video Cam. One of the most heartbreaking situations for any reefer to find themselves in. Almost 4 years ago we did have to remove our fish and leave the tank fallow for 3 months and it was one of the worst experiences I've had in the hobby. Whilst we still don't have a UV steriliser on our system, nothing goes near our tank without going through quarantine.
Onya Cam your a legend. And probably one of only people amongst us commenting that is actually university qualified to speak with authority in this area. I run a 120 watt emperor UV following white spot 10 months ago. Never ever had a problem since. So for all practical purposes it is gone. Done
LoL when you walked out that door with the massive UV, I thought you were holding a bazooka... well it is a bazooka to nuke them ich.
Great video! I am definitely a believer in the power of UV sterilizers from my own experiences with and without. I would never run another aquarium without one. Looking forward to the update!
No one would believe me in a forum I use when I told them I used UV to cure my tank of marine whitespot. I basically did the same as you but with a smaller unit. I will never run a marine aquarium without a UV filter on it. They just prevent so many problems. Great job and I look forward to seeing the results.
You can definitely use a smaller unit than we did here, but it takes longer. The best option is to have the UV running from the start as prevention of course. Cam
UV helps control theront populations. It does NOT actually eliminate ich, simply makes it easier to manage, and reduce likelihood of future outbreaks.
As Cam mentioned at the end of the video, you don't eradicate Ich without removing the fish, you just control it.
Much better to properly QT fish going in so there is no Ich/velvet in the tank.
Or you can just go fallow and QT the damn fish lol
@@marcelrodriguez2067 I agree but it can be difficult to remove the fish. So much easier to prevent than fix the problem. Properly QT and treat before they get to the display.
Really interesting Cam. I am really looking forward to the results. Great work.
Along he comes with the bazooka😂
Omg😂
haha
Thanks Cam - great segment!
Hi cam
I brilliant video are normal .. I’m currently fighting Marine WS now I went out and brought a 80watt DD (uk) uv which is equal to 110watt I’m putting a 1000 ltrs an hour through it my tanks 300ltrs again to max exposure time.. but I agree totally with what you said you don’t need chemicals to best WS de-stress the fish feed well and add the biggest uv possible..to get the beat uvc time to change the DNA of the parasite 🦠 or kill it out right.. I also added ozone
But I’m glad you have clarified this in the hobby as there’s a lot of bad advice out there..
Maybe do an Ozone video next would be good..
Best wishes buddy from the uk 👍🏼👍🏼
Very educational cam good to see 👍🏼
It is inaccurate information. UV does NOT eradicate ich. At best it might help control theront populations. UV is a band-aid, not a solution by any means.
Very nice UV I need that on my 90 gallon LoL. I have the 25 watt aqua uv and it does a great job. Thanks for sharing cam !!
The UV Twist is an excellent UV too. Cam
Until now I did not know there was a way to control this parasite without removing all of the fish!
There isn’t. This keeps them at a population density too low to see, but you switch it off and the fish gets stressed- it’ll make itself very apparent
"eradicating white spot and velvet without chemicals or removing fish"
Me: "yeah, this is gonna be total bs, I thought I liked this guy"
*out comes the 7ft, tank turret sized UV*
Me: "ok, I stand corrected and I still like this guy"
UV still doesnt eliminate ICH completetly
I recently had my powder blue tang get stressed with a new arrival in my tank. As a result white spot all over him. I feed with vitamins and other additives added to the foods and was generous with feedings. I also have a big UV system on my tank running all the time. But the best part of the way I destroyed the white spot was the three cleaner shrimp in my tank. The fish are always using them. Its is interesting to watch the tang swim up to the shrimp, and they clean the hell out of him. Within three days he calmed down about the member of the tank, and the white spot was gone in four more days. Everyone is fat and happy again. GO Cleaner shrimp!!!!
Thanks for sharing your experience! Cleaner shrimp are certainly an excellent form of biological control.
What kind if cleaner shrimp do you have?
Interesting solution as an alternative to having a tank fallow with fish removed for months. Really pleased you talked about exposure rating as it is something rarely discussed. Is there any reason, other than efficiency, why you wouldn't want to "overdo" exposure? Example, white spot or velvet treatment.. do the higher value? Does killing protozoa also kill algae or is it you need to target one or the other and plan for specific requirement?
Great video Cam! Always trust your advice cos it's backed by research and experience. Would be awesome to see you share some of the research that you use ☺️. See you guys in the shop 😁
Great video, 100% correct on exposure time for the dose required. No more than 25 gallons per minute/1500 GPH. We just installed one on our 1000 gallon aquarium, be sure to check us out on RUclips as part 16 just got released in the series.
To all those that say that this doesn't work how many trials have you run on tanks with white spot / velvet outbreaks using a correctly size UV? I can guarantee that Cam has used this method on 20+ tanks with success. I can personally vouch for UV eradicating velvet in my display tank. (2000L with a 150Watt UV)
If you can point to any other study or trial that has been completed showing that this method doesn't work I'd be happy to review my stance. Science is all about proving theories with trials and I think the results speak for themselves
Remember there is still no excuse for poor husbandry and not QT'ing UV is just insurance. Plus it keeps all the algae under control aswell.
Modern science is actually "all about" disproving hypotheses and theories. We are researching in the era, where all we know for sure is what we can disprove. It is called the falsification principle. By proving a theory, we are not learning something new as much as we are cementing that theory as the best truth available to us at this moment in time. Other than that, I agree with your post 😊
Best regards,
Tom-André Thomsen
Norwegian M.D. and reefer
I’m trying this.
I have a 375 gallons reef tank with 6 tangs all healthy but i want a powder blue and always get white spots and dyed.
I have a 57w uv but always running pump at full speed.
I just reduced the flow to minimum to see the results.
🙏🙏🙏 Hopefully this will do it.
Great video very informative thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Great informative video guys, well done (Y)
Thanks Sam!
Still hard at work I see, ship me some of those Australian frags you guys have :) much love from the us Cam.
“That’s not a light”, “THIS IS A LIGHT”!😂
Awesome content I run 40 watt Pentair on my 180.
Great UV choice. Cam
Excellent video..is possible make a video about the coral do you offers..
That information is very interesting if my fish ever get white spot this will definitely be something to think about but I really never buy new fish and I have been very lucky so far.
Yeah, if you’re not adding new fish the risk is much lower. Cam
Hey Ken! I run UV 24/7, here in Colorado (works at altitude too), and swear by UV's ability to eradicate Ich/Velvet etc. All my bigger systems have UV plumbed in from the getgo. Good advice!
Thanks mate! I think the problems people have with UV is when they use undersized sterilisers. Nice to hear others understand how effective it can be. Cam
How often do you recommend running a uv sterilizer on a general basis? Once a week? Everyday? Etc? How many hours or how many minutes
I have a 12 gallon long and ended up with a velvet outbreak. I have a small internal UV sterilizer that doesn’t seem to do much.
I would love to make a setup like yours. What wattage and flow would I need to have the same affect? I know I need a sterilizer that’s adjustable down to the correct flow rate. How do I calculate so I end up with a large enough sterilizer to take care of my tank?
Some say there's ick in every tank even if you quarantine, fish are able to fight it off if they are healthy and happy. Addition of a new fish must have stressed out existing fish. Recently my tang had some coral glue on its upper lip for a week and developed ick. (All my fish had been quarantine prior)
Can’t wIt for the follow up video!
Run when adding new fish for a week. Add Ruby Reef Rally and Kick Ich for first 4 days.
Kick ich is snake oil.. Never seen any proof that it works anywhere
That’s a $10 -$15k system that was undone by the lack of a $500 quarantine tank setup.
I’m guilty myself of not having a quarantine tank and regretted it fully.
UV works, even at smaller wattages
No it doesnt, its a myth. UV only works with LONG exposure time and low flow. Hense why he has a 7 foot long 300w+ uv sterilizer, the smaller UV lights like 36w pond sterilizers and under dont do jack shit to Ich. Ive been in the hobby for decades and its just another waste of money
@Gallery Aquatica TV Do you use a separate set of cleaning tools for tanks infested with parasites?
Good question. I don’t use my big drainage hose on tanks that are infected. If the infestation is bad enough I won’t even use my gear to pump water in which means bucketing water😞
Once again, a great informative video.
Could you please point me to a UV, for my Red sea 425 xl.
Cold beer drinker the UV Twist 57W would be great!
I have a 120 with 30 gal sump..1 tang 1 angel..5 cardinals..2 clowms..trigger wrasse.and blenny...got ich..got a 25 watt aqua uv..recommends 400 gph to kill at 90,000...what would you recommend I do..maxi jet 1200 290 gph...or less like 100 gph...I get that will give more killing power..but do I need higher turnover rate...also..I can only mount above sump...pump is by filter pad roller and output is by return pump...I also wonder if ich makes it thru filter roller or even to sump
Hello,how big uv steriliser i need for 180l fish tank? Thank you for the good video.
Off topic a little, but does anyone know what the plumbing "part" is called that he screws onto the ends of the UV unit (the nut and plate connected to the hose)? I am trying to source something similar for a DIY project but can't find the part.
A Union or True Union
Great. Next time my system has white spot I’ll just go grab my 7 foot long UV sterilizer 😆
Everyone should keep one in their fish cupboard😂
@@GalleryAquaticaTV haha, just need a really long cupboard...Glad some one who is in the know put it out there. Good job mate
@@GalleryAquaticaTV where to buy one in usa ?
What was the black mesh being used (presumably to prevent fish from jumping out) at the back of the tank?
egg crate cut to size :)
Good to see your take on what Seems like a controversial but important topic. Makes sense. So When must you change the UV bulb to be sure it is still working to kill the pests?
I replace the bulb at least every 12 months. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV even when not in use? Or after 12 months of 24/7 bulb use?
Any ideas for brooklynella when no quarantine tank is available?
Not really, you’re best to catch the fish out and treat with formalin malachite. Cam
How many people have access to a tank turret sized UV steriliser
insanity4224 we sell them in store
@@GalleryAquaticaTV I live in the US, but given the success you've had with this method, oversized UV sterilizers should be available to rent! That'd be awesome
What happened to the Regal Angel?? Or was it a Regal Tang?? Just to be clear UV is for control, you won't completely remove it with UV. If you did, you wouldn't need to add a further smaller unit. Still better to control than suffer the losses. What are your thoughts on velvet, remaining on the gills, not always dropping off?? Hence, always on the fish, never comes off to go into UV?? Hence, need to treat with copper or Chloroquine phosphate. Cheers
The Regal Angel died as expected. UV can be used for eradication, but we didn’t want to leave the big unit there given it’s an office, so in this case you’re right it is control. I don’t believe velvet has a different lifecycle on the gills to other parts of the fish, so UV is still an option. Cam
Hi Cam, how successful was the treatment on this tank? Did the Ich return back after the treatment. I am in a similar situation at the moment and I am thinking of getting a larger unit like this. This is the second time this has happened and the first time I had even let the DT fallow for 80 days. Not sure how it got back in the tank again without even adding any new fist. All the other fish were also treated with copper. I already have a 57W UV twist plumbed into the plumbing but I don't think it is doing a great job. Any help is much appreciated mate. Thank you
This was totally successful, zero fish losses. When we took the big UV off we fixed up the smaller UV (changed its bulb) and I haven’t seen any signs of disease since. You can link UV Twists together, so maybe get another one of those. Otherwise it might not have the right flow through it or it may need a new bulb. Cam
So is there a formula to work out an optimal flow rate for either ich or velvet if you know the wattage of the UV unit?
There should be ratings available from the UV manufacturer. If not it’s probably not really a UV appropriate for marine Protozoa. Cam
Did this treatment work? Just found out my tank has marine velvet and I have no means of being able to take them out
Yes it worked well with zero losses. Cam
Any update on this system and method ?
It’s going well, no fish losses and the coral is growing really quickly. Unfortunately the tank is up for sale as the owners have to move to a different office and can’t fit the tank in the new place. Cam
Hi Gallery Aquatica TV team.. I have a 500L system, pretty new - but already full of fish, live rock and a lot of coral. Since day one I’ve run 2 x 45w UV on it. Would you say it’s an adequate amount to keep any waterborne parasites like ich & velvet at bay if they had already somehow found their way into my tank? Cheers
It depends on the brand, but 45 watt should be enough for preventing an outbreak. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV thnx Cam!
Great information. How long is the projected time you will have this device on the tank? Is there any plans top place a permanent UV sterilizer on this system moving forward? Thank you for sharing!
This UV will probably need to be in place for 6 weeks, and we definitely intend to put a smaller maintenance UV in place. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV Awesome. Thank you so much for the reply.
Is it just me or does this seems much easier than TTMing or Quarantining Every single fish and Coral!?
Totally. Not only that, but some tanks it’s impossible to get the fish out of. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV have you always managed to completely rid ich and velvet this way?
@@GalleryAquaticaTV do you agree that this does NOT truly eradicate the ICH, since if it did then you wouldn't need the "maintenance" UV sterilizer afterward? TTM and quarantining would increase the odds of having a truly protozoan free tank.
drdavethedude it’s important to execute as much precautions to prevent issues as possible. Quarantine is an excellent precautionary practice. But don’t forget most of the hobbyists here use natural seawater for regular water changes. Some people even believe protozoan parasites can be transferred via introducing new corals.
Are you shooting for 3x turn over rate ?
For a preventive measure you should aim for once per hour. if you already have an outbreak as high as you can go making sure you are within the exposure flow rates for your UV
Cam,
Can that unit be temporary hired from you for this purpose?
Im in Brisbane
Yes it can, unsure if its currently being borrowed or not, but give Wynnum a call and they can help you out - sorry i didnt see this til now
Had this been velvet, wouldn't most of the fish have died before you could respond with UV treatment?
Correct, however if you’re lucky enough to catch velvet before you lose too many fish it is actually easier to eradicate as it requires a much lower exposure of UV. Cam
Do you need to be running UV 24/7 or only when you have an outbreak?
It’s best to run it 24/7 but especially important if you’re adding new fish or have fish prone to Protozoan parasites like tangs. Cam
My aqua 25watt flow rate is at 350 it's required to run 400 GPH. And 350 is all I can get on my Cor 20 because it's tied into my main and it's at 100 percent. Is 350 GPH enough or should I put another pump on it ?? thank you
350 is enough. It’s actually better to run slightly slower flow through them than the ratings suggest because you push up the exposure. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV thanks Cam
Why 280.000 mWs/cm2 ?
I read 180.000 uWs/cm2 is enough.
I’ve seen a few different opinions on this, and I’ve chosen to go with the Emperor Aquatics listed exposure rate. Partly because it’s the highest I’ve seen, so if you hit that you can be sure it’s enough to kill WS in one pass through. Cam
UV won’t “fully eradicate” but it does a great job decimating the ich population where fish seldom shows white spot. Ich is still in the system though.
Incorrect, it can be eradicated with UV. Also this is a marine system, Ich is a freshwater protozoan. Cam
Gallery Aquatica TV Ok best of luck! Everything you just said was false LOL.
You think Ich is marine?
Gallery Aquatica TV Yes Marine Ich (ie the Cryptocaryon parasite). Not all the Cryptocaryon will flow through the UV so it won’t 100% eradicate but it will decrease the population so the fish can live and manage.
I know a lot of people are under the misconception you can’t eradicate MARINE WHITESPOT with UV, hence my desire to document cases in which I do. This tank will only ever be an example of UV as a control, however we’ll do a video in the future in which we demonstrate the ability to use it for eradication. We’ll do this when we can set up a tank specifically for this purpose, as opposed to a client’s tank like this one. Cam
LMFAO wasn't expecting one that big
I was hoping to hear you call that a uv..... this is a uv 😆 🤣
Lol, I have an even bigger one in the shop😂
@@GalleryAquaticaTV wow, that on was impressive enough, makes my 18w coralife look like a nightlight.
Cam, what's your opinion on polyp lab medic?
In a tank with a small number of low-susceptible fish it can help, however I don’t think it’s a replacement for a properly rated UV or good quarantine. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV I have a royal gramma that has been scratching himself on rocks and on sandbed. We suspect ich, in your experience, what could it be. There are small white spots on hime but were not sure if it's sand particles on him or ich.
@@GalleryAquaticaTV also, we have a waterbox reef 220.6 what size UV do you think would be appropriate?
iv got regal tang that gets few white spots from time to time but go away on there own and never goes to the other fish! Dont you think the fish immune system can just fight off few spots!
Definitely some tanks can have recurring whitespot that never really causes a problem and “disappears” by itself. This generally takes a low stress tank in which the fish aren’t overcrowded, are happy and well conditioned. Their natural immune system can fight it off, but it’s definitely a good sign that you keep your tank in a good state. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV bang on mate iv only 5 fish in a 180 gal and my 2 tangs really get on!
Hey Cam the fish guy 😊😁
Hi AJ, good work with getting the first comment😉
Poor me. I dont have that equipment.
Oh I'm late to the party! Very interesting and such a ballers uv unit and statement Cam! Of course can you kill microscopic animals with UV, you can even kill humans, as Cam says, it's a matter of exposure. Makes sense.
I visited some public aquariums last year, and boy oh boy the UV units, sand filters and ozone filters those guys run, they can sterilize everything and the thousands of unquarantined fish are healthy. That being said, we can all agree that prevention and quarantine is still a great idea for hobbyists.
Eradication is still a viable term when the eradicated is reduced to a non viable/visible/lethal population, so this also makes sense in regard to Cam's strategy, knock them down hard, and then keep them down. Also notice that the pump is placed in the display, in the direction of the flow. The theronts will inevitably be pushed towards it and sucked up. Much better than relying on the small overflow suction area.
Cam where's that patreon page yet? I want to show you my acropora I can keep because of you guys :D
You always have the most astute and articulate comments. I agree totally. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV And you always have the best and most interesting videos!
I'm still waiting for that SPS mothership so I can copy your methods ;) I'm getting some weird STN from the growth edge on some acro's frustrating as all hell, so I need some Cam the champ guidance ;)
I am impressed, you have more than flip-flops. You have even socks and shoes ;-)
Yes I do, but it’s rare the socks ever match😂
Did it work?
Yes worked well. Watch the follow up video. 6 weeks later no fish showed any signs of white spot.
Search “Beating White Spot the Fish Guy way - the results”. The 2nd video should pop up also.
Surely if you clean the guys tank he would buy his fish from you and this wouldn't have happened.
I think that will be their plan from now on, but sometimes people can’t help but buy a pretty fish they see in a shop, and some shops don’t look at the health of the fish they sell. Cam
I am just here for the comments
It was always going to be a contentious topic😉
I wish had Chinese subtitles.
I lost an entire tank due to velvet with a UV Sterilizer. It don't work for velvet.
It works best for Velvet as velvet only requires a low exposure level. If it “didn’t work” that means there was a problem with the way it was used, or more likely it was a brand designed for freshwater. Cam
quarantine quarantine quarantine
Good quarantine definitely is worth the effort. Cam
Didn’t work for me.
You need to go big with the UV. Even then the number of fish and their health and condition can lead to limited results. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV I have a 125 gallon aquarium and I got a 40 watt uv. Rated for 300 gallons.
Im all for QT fish no exceptions, if you cant QT you shouldnt have certain fish specially tangs!!! The price of UVs is so expensive compared to jist QT your fish and never introducing ich to your tank in the first place...
Agreed, we advocate quarantining but we can’t always control what people put in their tanks. Cam
wont happen, only true waty is fallow tank! it will help but wont work unless every spot goes through the uv which is highly unlikely.
Not true, because not every “spot” will attach to a host anyway. All you need to do is remove most of the free living stage and over time the parasite number will go down, eventually to zero. I’ve used this system on literally dozens of tanks with total success. Cam
But we’ll see how this tank goes in the following weeks. Cam
Stef have you actually tried both methods / an expert on marine protozoa? Or do you just go off what you read in forums?
@@calb281095 i have tried these methods along with the so called reef safe medications offered
@@calb281095 youi would have to makes sure every single white spot passes through the uv! impossible
Uv want kill other positive bacteria?
Yep, UV also kills bacteria and waterborne algae. Cam
The positive bacteria are on substrate therefore you do not have any negative impact on your bio system, just only turn UV off when adding bacteria to give them the time to sattle on substrate.
Question. Where do you get a 150 watt uv sterilizer?
Aquarium stores or aquaculture suppliers. They are very common in aquaculture. Cam