What is the HP rating of your machine? What do you think of those little black, odd-shaped "washers" that go on the shaft before the inside big " washer? They are odd shaped and they move together as the wheel moves until they are "perfectly" aligned, thus giving your true balance and are wobble free then.?
High Speed Steel (HSS) chisels are hardened in a process that heats it up "Cherry red" and then quenched in oil. They may be slightly tempered. The tempering process removes the brittleness in the steel but retains the toughness. When sharpening HSS chisels, you must be aware NEVER to turn the steel to a blue colour by grinding too much. In fact, a chisel must not be ground so it changes the colour of the sharpened tip anything past a light straw colour. Over heating a chisel during sharpening will remove the toughness HSS is known for
If you can get your hands on a base to one of those orange portable road traffic dividers or ballard or 4' tall poles , kinda like a traffic come but they're just an orange plastic pole poking up through a thick rubber pad that keeps it anchored to the ground so you can't knock them over.. You know what I'm talking about? Anyway those rubber pads are amazing at vibration control if you set your grinder on one ..or any tool you want to deaden vibration in.. But hey, what about those grinding wheels that dont create any heat? ..I cant think of their proper name either.. Wow, im on a roll tonight.. They're called by a couple/few initials ..like CBD or something.. I thought they were all the rage these days. But they're kinda pricey.. Maybe $100+/-?
I'm certainly no expert, but it's not about being or not being a "tool snob" at all. Like just about anything else and especially with tools you usually get what your willing to pay for. Norton goes to great lengths to produce high quality wheels. As they should given there higher price and how long they've been at it. So well balanced, concentric and equal thickness across the whole wheel is part of what your paying for. Yes the odd not quite perfect wheel might turn up once in awhile, but on average there QC is extremely good. As to why your wheel had a side to side wobble? You pretty much paid for what you got. 10 -15 years ago there were dozens if not hundreds of threads on the home machinist forums about re-machining a carbide grinder Harbor Freight used to sell for metal workers. Slightly bent motor shafts, incorrectly machined wheel location steps, poorly machined wheel flanges that gave an axial wobble exactly like your seeing with that Rikon grinder etc. It's a time consuming effort to rework what the factory couldn't afford to make right due to the low selling price. But there's very good and logical reasons for seeing that axial misalignment issue on the cheap grinders. Showing how to ring test a wheel was a good tip but not touched on is the importance of always having the factory applied paper blotters on the wheel. The factory uses them to identify the wheel type with a code, but there an extremely important safety item as they give a bit while tightening the nut so there's no localized stresses applied to the wheel from the flanges that might cause it to crack. "Regular steel" tools should be identified as being high carbon steel tools. Depending on it's carbon content and exact composition type it's maximum hardness would be about 65 on the Rockwell scale. That would be the same number for High Speed Steel (HSS) so both types are just about equal in hardness. Where high carbon tools start to fail in use or regrinding is there temper can start to degrade from about 370C / 690F and higher. James T. Kilroy Jr. did a YT video a few years ago about heating a High Speed lathe tool red hot with an Oxy / Acetylene torch, letting it cool and then using it to again cut metal. There was no degradation in the tools performance. It's an old wives tale that should have died long ago that getting a HSS tool too hot while regrinding it will cause it to loose it's temper. And ordinary HSS grinds pretty easy, there are much higher grades of HSS such as with cobalt added to name just one that do make them far tougher and slower to regrind. So that special Norton wheel was a good investment. Yes High Carbon tools are easy to lose there temper when re-grinding. With High speed Steel it's just about impossible to do so. Carbide tools are made with a sintering process involving very high pressures in a mold. While the linked video is about metal machining tips the process for wood working carbide is much the same. ruclips.net/video/0QrynzJ_lZ4/видео.html Binders such as cobalt are mixed with the carbide to help hold the carbide grains in place. Afaik high speed steel and carbide are never combined together. At the temperatures carbide can handle the high speed steel would break down well before the carbide did and the tools cutting edge would fall apart. I could easily machine my own steel wheel adapters but there's absolutely no need to do so. Norton supplies those plastic bushings to reduce the hole size to then fit the grinders spindle diameter. All they do is center the wheel on the shaft. The grinders spindle nut and those flanges are what keeps the wheel in place and centered. The plastic bushings just get the wheel centered during the static conditions while mounting it until the nut and flange washers do the actual holding. After that the bushing no matter what it's made from is just along for the ride.
Good info Tim. I am learning; and I didn't have to search for it !! Going to Part II now.
I believe the third screw had a wing nut because it was part of the mounting and adjusting for the stock toolrest
I've had one of those cabinets!
What is the HP rating of your machine? What do you think of those little black, odd-shaped "washers" that go on the shaft before the inside big " washer? They are odd shaped and they move together as the wheel moves until they are "perfectly" aligned, thus giving your true balance and are wobble free then.?
I'm looking to get into wood turning what starter stuff should I get
Why no CBN ?
High Speed Steel (HSS) chisels are hardened in a process that heats it up "Cherry red" and then quenched in oil. They may be slightly tempered. The tempering process removes the brittleness in the steel but retains the toughness. When sharpening HSS chisels, you must be aware NEVER to turn the steel to a blue colour by grinding too much. In fact, a chisel must not be ground so it changes the colour of the sharpened tip anything past a light straw colour. Over heating a chisel during sharpening will remove the toughness HSS is known for
If you can get your hands on a base to one of those orange portable road traffic dividers or ballard or 4' tall poles , kinda like a traffic come but they're just an orange plastic pole poking up through a thick rubber pad that keeps it anchored to the ground so you can't knock them over.. You know what I'm talking about? Anyway those rubber pads are amazing at vibration control if you set your grinder on one ..or any tool you want to deaden vibration in..
But hey, what about those grinding wheels that dont create any heat? ..I cant think of their proper name either.. Wow, im on a roll tonight.. They're called by a couple/few initials ..like CBD or something.. I thought they were all the rage these days. But they're kinda pricey.. Maybe $100+/-?
"I'm not a tool snob", said the man with a 7000$ lathe :D
And Tools from Thompson.
I could barely see Tim's lips move hahaha!
I'm certainly no expert, but it's not about being or not being a "tool snob" at all. Like just about anything else and especially with tools you usually get what your willing to pay for. Norton goes to great lengths to produce high quality wheels. As they should given there higher price and how long they've been at it. So well balanced, concentric and equal thickness across the whole wheel is part of what your paying for. Yes the odd not quite perfect wheel might turn up once in awhile, but on average there QC is extremely good. As to why your wheel had a side to side wobble? You pretty much paid for what you got. 10 -15 years ago there were dozens if not hundreds of threads on the home machinist forums about re-machining a carbide grinder Harbor Freight used to sell for metal workers. Slightly bent motor shafts, incorrectly machined wheel location steps, poorly machined wheel flanges that gave an axial wobble exactly like your seeing with that Rikon grinder etc. It's a time consuming effort to rework what the factory couldn't afford to make right due to the low selling price. But there's very good and logical reasons for seeing that axial misalignment issue on the cheap grinders.
Showing how to ring test a wheel was a good tip but not touched on is the importance of always having the factory applied paper blotters on the wheel. The factory uses them to identify the wheel type with a code, but there an extremely important safety item as they give a bit while tightening the nut so there's no localized stresses applied to the wheel from the flanges that might cause it to crack. "Regular steel" tools should be identified as being high carbon steel tools. Depending on it's carbon content and exact composition type it's maximum hardness would be about 65 on the Rockwell scale. That would be the same number for High Speed Steel (HSS) so both types are just about equal in hardness. Where high carbon tools start to fail in use or regrinding is there temper can start to degrade from about 370C / 690F and higher. James T. Kilroy Jr. did a YT video a few years ago about heating a High Speed lathe tool red hot with an Oxy / Acetylene torch, letting it cool and then using it to again cut metal. There was no degradation in the tools performance. It's an old wives tale that should have died long ago that getting a HSS tool too hot while regrinding it will cause it to loose it's temper. And ordinary HSS grinds pretty easy, there are much higher grades of HSS such as with cobalt added to name just one that do make them far tougher and slower to regrind. So that special Norton wheel was a good investment. Yes High Carbon tools are easy to lose there temper when re-grinding. With High speed Steel it's just about impossible to do so.
Carbide tools are made with a sintering process involving very high pressures in a mold. While the linked video is about metal machining tips the process for wood working carbide is much the same. ruclips.net/video/0QrynzJ_lZ4/видео.html Binders such as cobalt are mixed with the carbide to help hold the carbide grains in place. Afaik high speed steel and carbide are never combined together. At the temperatures carbide can handle the high speed steel would break down well before the carbide did and the tools cutting edge would fall apart. I could easily machine my own steel wheel adapters but there's absolutely no need to do so. Norton supplies those plastic bushings to reduce the hole size to then fit the grinders spindle diameter. All they do is center the wheel on the shaft. The grinders spindle nut and those flanges are what keeps the wheel in place and centered. The plastic bushings just get the wheel centered during the static conditions while mounting it until the nut and flange washers do the actual holding. After that the bushing no matter what it's made from is just along for the ride.