Very well put together Mr. Kevin, I especially liked your file "run-down." The order and explanation was well executed...The steel hardness observations were very interesting as well..
Thanks Mr. Brian, I intend to do a full file-breakdown at some point, but just haven’t had the energy. I really want to be thorough. I was a little hard on HB. Only my Kisa was super hard. The Arvika and 3.5lb was fine.
Nice video. I like the folded rag on the poll filing method. Scribbling on the blade with a magic marker helps with knowing where I'm cutting, old guy with dollar store reading glasses tip.
I just sharpened one of these Hytest tassies in a 4.5lb. One of the more pleasant file sharpening experiences I've had. My files are getting a bit dull so thanks for the brand suggestions!
@@KevinsDisobedience Glad to hear it, that's why I snagged this one. I've got red & white oak, eucalyptus and hollyleaf cherry trees at my spot. All dense stuff. I was surprised to find the hollyleaf cherry to be the most difficult to cut and split, it's really hard stuff. Good for a long fire!
Work hardened axes will resist the first few file strokes. Tape a piece of 100G sandpaper to a paint stick and draw file across that axe edge (takes abut five seconds) and your file will now cut like it should.
Awesome axe man! I’m really excited to see you chop with it. Those are some sleek looking files. All I’ve been able to find local are 12” mill bastard files from Nicholson. They aren’t too bad. My bacho farmers file - which I expected to cut better - got completely wrecked when I filed my gransfors. The large double-cut teeth all rolled and don’t cut much of anything anymore. The “second-cut” side of that file is quite nice though. Good for making the secondary bevel. I do the same thing with using quick-clamps. They are awesome. I’ve also started using painters tape to protect the cheeks. Holds up really well. Filing is no joke. It’s easy to get frustrated expecting to get it done in a day. It takes a lot of work. I too prefer the brush side of the file card. Even if it’s really gummed-up, I think the bristles are easier on the file. Nice video, thanks for sharing!
I’m excited to get it swung too, but first I have to find time to make a sheath. All files are disposable, but I want something aggressive when it’s new. Simmonds are the best value I’ve found to date.
If you want to revive the cutting ability of a file the trick is to use a piece of copper to dig all the crud stuck in the teeth and then dip it in an acid solution you can use strong strait vinegar for like 5-10 minutes then hit it with a wire brush and finally dip it in water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. The copper will displace the other material and the acid will dissolve the copper enough to loosen it for the file card to remove it fully. You will be surprised at how much better your file will cut.
Very good video Kevin. I know exactly what you’re talking about with the softer steel. I have filed such a wide variety of axe heads and some are so soft that it clogs up the file after each pass, or so hard the file skates over it without cutting it at all. I go straight to abrasives when that happens lol. I’ve noticed that plumb heads are amongst the most difficult to file. True temper and council tend to be that sweet spot where the file cuts well.
That was my experience with I head, and both Plumbs I have are too hard to cut with a file. I used abrasives on both. Kurt said he’s had the same experience with them. I don’t buy them any more because of that.
@@KevinsDisobedience I was just working on a Plumb Boy Scout Axe from the 1920's and a file would cut but I wound up using a course diamond plate on the edge. The mushroom on the butt was pretty soft.
I was talking to a wildlife fire fighter and apparently where this person worked they don't use file cards! Maybe their files have such big teeth shavings don't get stuck? I need the file card even when I'm filing from heel to toe and getting rid of filings. I use my files for wood sometimes too so the file card helps a lot with that as well. Nice job. Filing doesn't need to be done for 3 hours straight. Unless it's an emergency or someones first axe. I make handles that way. Just pick away at it. This is especially important when being stuck on a problem or something doesn't seem to be going right.
I could definitely do without a file card, unless the steel is especially gummy. But they are nice to have. Almost all of my axe builds are done in 20min sessions. Love your content, brother.
Well said, filing or shaping does not have to be done in a single sitting. Its refreshing to see that you can produce those results without any jig or specialty tools. The hardness of some steel was a tricky one for me when I got into the vintage axes. Like you said, some cut too easy while some just skate across like your file is dull. Nice handle on that chainsaw file
I've done it by using the file to establish some marks on the head then going over them with a flap disc on an angle grinder. Hit it with more file strokes and back to the flap disc. Repeat ad infinitum.
Awesome video! I would love if you showed how you profile and sharpen a fresh new boys axe. I would even buy one for purpose of a video. CT has a new designed boys axe and my favorite now, is actually a Collins axe from the hardware store, although time will tell if it lasts and is good steel/hardness, but their new handle comes way thinner than it use to!
G'day KD, not to hot not to cold hytest just right. when the old fella's were working in the real bush they used to say it had to be sharp enough to shave a mouse asleep 👍🇦🇺.
Hey Kevin, can you please post a link to the one file you'd buy for doing this kind of work? I don't really have the time to mess around trying a bunch of them and I trust your opinions.
Sure, unfortunately Amazon no longer carries the rough one I prefer. But any old double cut Red handled Simmonds is what you want. here it is: Simonds - 78758900 Flat Hand File... www.amazon.com/dp/B0050EFXIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Maybe you can plug this in Google and find it elsewhere. But I also really love this one for a little finer work. Don’t get me wrong, it’ll cut! Swix Chrome File T106X 8 inch... www.amazon.com/dp/B004XQZPBG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share The handles not the most comfortable, but the sucker cuts and it’s smooth. I also like Pfred, although I do find the dull pretty quickly. But then all files do. Kind of have to treat them like sand paper. They are disposables at the end of their life. Hope that helps.
Awesome vid mate! Very well explained process and it came out beautiful! Satin finish is the go, can't wait to see the sheath and see it swung! Hytest does seem to hit the mark with its heat treat. When you say HB is the hardest, are you meaning your Kisa? I've found my vintage HB's about on par with hytest, and my Montreal soft-ish but good (Haven't touched the new agdor tas yet) Was there any difference between the kisa and your arvika?
No, fair point, I guess I am only remembering the Kisa. My HB 3.5 felling axe was fine and so was the Arvika, but that goddam Kisa ruined two of my files and destroyed a brand new belt on my sander. I’ve had a similar issue with a small 2.5 Plumb, not sure if that’s the norm.
@@KevinsDisobedience yup plumb is a bugger in my experience too. I actually started avoiding em after a few years for that reason, only kept the one. Does hold a good edge though
Excellent video. I can’t wait to see your breakdown of the sharpening kit. Who makes the tool roll? I’ve had trouble finding one big enough for files. That edge looks mean.
I’ll take your word for it. I can just testify to how they perform in the wood I’ve chopped. I’ve literally only forged one knife, so can’t speak to that side of things.
Nice to see your into the tassie pattern ax bits. Other than my double bits Tassies is prettty much all I use. Designed and made for Australian hardwoods.
Yeah sorry, I did but I cut it out to save time. You don’t need it, but it’s just to protect the file from scratching the head if you have a nice vintage patina.
![[Special Clip] ATEEZ(에이티즈) 홍중 'Why Do You Love'](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I6XYXQKN_pY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Eminem - Somebody Save Me (feat. Jelly Roll) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Vwa0HenQMi4/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice tips! One way of stopping the file from clogging is to rub the file with some chalk, it stops the chips from gumming up the file teeth.
I’ve heard that before. Never tried it. Might give it a go and see if I notice a difference. Thanks
Very well put together Mr. Kevin, I especially liked your file "run-down." The order and explanation was well executed...The steel hardness observations were very interesting as well..
Thanks Mr. Brian, I intend to do a full file-breakdown at some point, but just haven’t had the energy. I really want to be thorough. I was a little hard on HB. Only my Kisa was super hard. The Arvika and 3.5lb was fine.
Nice video. I like the folded rag on the poll filing method. Scribbling on the blade with a magic marker helps with knowing where I'm cutting, old guy with dollar store reading glasses tip.
Thanks, whatever works, use it!
I just sharpened one of these Hytest tassies in a 4.5lb. One of the more pleasant file sharpening experiences I've had. My files are getting a bit dull so thanks for the brand suggestions!
This is the best big hardwood axe I own, period.
@@KevinsDisobedience Glad to hear it, that's why I snagged this one. I've got red & white oak, eucalyptus and hollyleaf cherry trees at my spot. All dense stuff. I was surprised to find the hollyleaf cherry to be the most difficult to cut and split, it's really hard stuff. Good for a long fire!
Great tips Kevin. I love the look of hand filed axe. Something about it not being perfectly uniform just looks right.
That satin look is pretty. I like it more than a mirror polish.
Super video and very clearly explained! That red tipped file really gets the job done. Looking forward to the next one.
They are definitely the fastest I’ve found to date.
Work hardened axes will resist the first few file strokes. Tape a piece of 100G sandpaper to a paint stick and draw file across that axe edge (takes abut five seconds) and your file will now cut like it should.
Awesome axe man! I’m really excited to see you chop with it.
Those are some sleek looking files. All I’ve been able to find local are 12” mill bastard files from Nicholson. They aren’t too bad. My bacho farmers file - which I expected to cut better - got completely wrecked when I filed my gransfors. The large double-cut teeth all rolled and don’t cut much of anything anymore. The “second-cut” side of that file is quite nice though. Good for making the secondary bevel.
I do the same thing with using quick-clamps. They are awesome. I’ve also started using painters tape to protect the cheeks. Holds up really well.
Filing is no joke. It’s easy to get frustrated expecting to get it done in a day. It takes a lot of work.
I too prefer the brush side of the file card. Even if it’s really gummed-up, I think the bristles are easier on the file.
Nice video, thanks for sharing!
I’m excited to get it swung too, but first I have to find time to make a sheath. All files are disposable, but I want something aggressive when it’s new. Simmonds are the best value I’ve found to date.
That ski file is amazing. Gives it a Great finish
It really does. I love it.
If you want to revive the cutting ability of a file the trick is to use a piece of copper to dig all the crud stuck in the teeth and then dip it in an acid solution you can use strong strait vinegar for like 5-10 minutes then hit it with a wire brush and finally dip it in water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. The copper will displace the other material and the acid will dissolve the copper enough to loosen it for the file card to remove it fully. You will be surprised at how much better your file will cut.
Very good video Kevin. I know exactly what you’re talking about with the softer steel. I have filed such a wide variety of axe heads and some are so soft that it clogs up the file after each pass, or so hard the file skates over it without cutting it at all. I go straight to abrasives when that happens lol. I’ve noticed that plumb heads are amongst the most difficult to file. True temper and council tend to be that sweet spot where the file cuts well.
That was my experience with I head, and both Plumbs I have are too hard to cut with a file. I used abrasives on both. Kurt said he’s had the same experience with them. I don’t buy them any more because of that.
@@KevinsDisobedience I was just working on a Plumb Boy Scout Axe from the 1920's and a file would cut but I wound up using a course diamond plate on the edge. The mushroom on the butt was pretty soft.
really good video. i like vallorbes but i might pick up a pferd to see if there is a noticeable difference
I think you’ll conclude there isn’t much difference. I have a few vallorbes. Suffice it to say I don’t use them much.
I was talking to a wildlife fire fighter and apparently where this person worked they don't use file cards! Maybe their files have such big teeth shavings don't get stuck? I need the file card even when I'm filing from heel to toe and getting rid of filings. I use my files for wood sometimes too so the file card helps a lot with that as well.
Nice job. Filing doesn't need to be done for 3 hours straight. Unless it's an emergency or someones first axe. I make handles that way. Just pick away at it. This is especially important when being stuck on a problem or something doesn't seem to be going right.
I could definitely do without a file card, unless the steel is especially gummy. But they are nice to have. Almost all of my axe builds are done in 20min sessions. Love your content, brother.
Well said, filing or shaping does not have to be done in a single sitting. Its refreshing to see that you can produce those results without any jig or specialty tools. The hardness of some steel was a tricky one for me when I got into the vintage axes. Like you said, some cut too easy while some just skate across like your file is dull. Nice handle on that chainsaw file
Thanks, she turned out nice. The handle is a reproduction of old ones. Killinger produces them if you can get them when they come online.
I've done it by using the file to establish some marks on the head then going over them with a flap disc on an angle grinder. Hit it with more file strokes and back to the flap disc. Repeat ad infinitum.
Yep, me too. Works great!
Very good video!
Thanks, you’re really hitting the back catalogue. I appreciate that.
Great demonstration bruv! Thx for sharing your process! Cheers, Kimmers and Jerbs 👍🏼🇺🇸🔥🔪🔥🇨🇦👍🏼
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Hope you enjoy the content and community.
Awesome video! I would love if you showed how you profile and sharpen a fresh new boys axe. I would even buy one for purpose of a video. CT has a new designed boys axe and my favorite now, is actually a Collins axe from the hardware store, although time will tell if it lasts and is good steel/hardness, but their new handle comes way thinner than it use to!
Oh there’s plenty of those on my channel
NICE Forged 4 lb !
Great vid, thanks !
Thanks, it’s a sweet axe
Great video and good tips man! That tassie lookin’ awesome!
Starting to come together. Can’t wait to get her swung.
Great info, great video. Thank you.
Thank you, sir.
Perfect timing, I was just about to reprofile my tassie.
Great, hope something I said helps.
G'day KD, not to hot not to cold hytest just right. when the old fella's were working in the real bush they used to say it had to be sharp enough to shave a mouse asleep 👍🇦🇺.
I like that expression. Never heard it before.
Well it would need to be sharp to do that and it would also need to be sharp to fell 300 foot trees as hard as oak !
Hey Kevin, can you please post a link to the one file you'd buy for doing this kind of work? I don't really have the time to mess around trying a bunch of them and I trust your opinions.
Sure, unfortunately Amazon no longer carries the rough one I prefer. But any old double cut Red handled Simmonds is what you want. here it is: Simonds - 78758900 Flat Hand File... www.amazon.com/dp/B0050EFXIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Maybe you can plug this in Google and find it elsewhere. But I also really love this one for a little finer work. Don’t get me wrong, it’ll cut! Swix Chrome File T106X 8 inch... www.amazon.com/dp/B004XQZPBG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The handles not the most comfortable, but the sucker cuts and it’s smooth. I also like Pfred, although I do find the dull pretty quickly. But then all files do. Kind of have to treat them like sand paper. They are disposables at the end of their life. Hope that helps.
I need to get a Simonds Maxi Black All Purpose file! I just wrote to them.
They’re the nuts!
Awesome vid mate! Very well explained process and it came out beautiful! Satin finish is the go, can't wait to see the sheath and see it swung! Hytest does seem to hit the mark with its heat treat. When you say HB is the hardest, are you meaning your Kisa? I've found my vintage HB's about on par with hytest, and my Montreal soft-ish but good (Haven't touched the new agdor tas yet) Was there any difference between the kisa and your arvika?
No, fair point, I guess I am only remembering the Kisa. My HB 3.5 felling axe was fine and so was the Arvika, but that goddam Kisa ruined two of my files and destroyed a brand new belt on my sander. I’ve had a similar issue with a small 2.5 Plumb, not sure if that’s the norm.
@@KevinsDisobedience yup plumb is a bugger in my experience too. I actually started avoiding em after a few years for that reason, only kept the one. Does hold a good edge though
Both of the Plumbs I have need to be sharpened mechanically. A file won’t touch em.
@@KevinsDisobedienceI wonder if a Norton or Baryonx abrasive file would work?
Excellent video. I can’t wait to see your breakdown of the sharpening kit. Who makes the tool roll? I’ve had trouble finding one big enough for files. That edge looks mean.
I’m honestly not sure. I bought two of them on Amazon a few years ago.
My favorite axe to file is a Kelly Falls City
I want to up my file game and this is the video I needed!
Oh, re. HB steel, the new Agdors file nicely. At least mine does.
Yeah, I have only had that problem with the Kisa. Not sure why I said that. The Arvika and my 3.5lb felling axe are fine. Plumb is a bitch though!
Great, I hope this helps.
Ochsenkopf makes DIN 7287 A and Din B axes. So hardness is between A: C60 steel 51 and 56 HRC
B: C35-C40 steel between 47 and 55 HRC
I’ll take your word for it. I can just testify to how they perform in the wood I’ve chopped. I’ve literally only forged one knife, so can’t speak to that side of things.
What is the name of the diamond file you are using for final process. Where do you buy the simonds 12” only seeing 8 & 10” amazon?
Haha! I do the same thing when clamping!
What’s that? Two clamps or use the wedge?
You buy ur wedges, for the eye?
Nice to see your into the tassie pattern ax bits. Other than my double bits Tassies is prettty much all I use. Designed and made for Australian hardwoods.
Haven’t used it yet, but can’t see how it won’t be a good cutter. Good geometry.
Why do you use ro file frome the same side ? Toe to heal on both sides ?
You don’t have to, but it will keep the symmetry of the grind the same.
FILES LIKE CHEESE!!! GREAT WORK AND THANK YOU FOR SHARING GREAT TIPS!
Glad you enjoyed
Scy-monDs, not “simmons”. Simmons is separate company entirely
You didn't say why you used tape. Could you explain?
Yeah sorry, I did but I cut it out to save time. You don’t need it, but it’s just to protect the file from scratching the head if you have a nice vintage patina.
Did you ever try to file a Rinaldi’s axe?
No, I’ve never had the pleasure. Good steel?
@@KevinsDisobedience yeah, 58HRC ! You gotta get use to it.
👋🏻
Feelin Firsty.
Hahaha nice!
and wear disposable gloves
🤗 p̴r̴o̴m̴o̴s̴m̴
Second!