You sir have made my day, just as I was becoming disillusioned with the whole idea of screen printing I come across your video, very Insightful and the best part you have the plans for your contraptions on your website. griddle heat press!! lol amazing....
I've been screen printing for 30 years and this is a perfect example of a person who is smart and creative and puts ten times more work into their projects than is necessary just to call it DIY. Sadly, this is the most common issue among high school programs in the schools who even offer this craft.
Mike Dillon Thanks Mike...I think ;) You are absolutely right. I do a lot of things just to see if I can do it once or twice...Those screens I used in this video as an example. As to the rest, it's fun and keeps me out of the wife's hair when I start getting bored.
What I tell the schools is I wish they would see this as vocational training and not a hodge podge art class because some of these kids might actually desire a career in this business and having real guidance to the science behind the craft is as important as staying out of the wife's hair. Just my opinion... I like your approach.... adventurous and fearless but I wish it was tempered with realistic orientation.
Well, this is the only place I demo any kind of screen printing, but tell ya what: I do want people to get the best I can give so give me some examples where I can still be me and make the lessons more real life. After all, I'm just the garage boy you see in the videos and I don't really try to make a living out of any of this stuff. It just keeps me sane vs my insane professional life.
cyclesurgeon You have a cool forum. People ask you questions and are actually learning. If I could offer a suggestion of how you can stay true to you and still fulfill that desire to learn inherent in your forum I would say elaborate more on where you have improvised and why. Right now if I were a beginner watching your videos I would think process screens are a 110 mesh with a 37 line screen. Your "teaching moment" could include the generally accepted formula for determining screen mesh and proper process line screen followed by the explanation THIS is what I have to work with so what I do to COMPENSATE is... Just a thought and I appreciate your open mind. I hope you are wildly successful in teaching people the mechanics, the art and the science of screen printing.
Wow. Pretty sweet. Is there a Doctor in the house? Be sure to post videos when you take a few weekends and build that 10 color auto. LOL! If you do any more process with the same 4 screen combo, use the higher mesh and a full width squeegee for the Black for a full-width pull instead of multiple pulls. You're an inspiration. As a matter of fact you've inspired a whole series of videos!! Haaa-haaa!!
Hey thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I was j/k bout the polish part, i really liked it , and i will look at the other videos. Thanks again an HAPPY Holidays to you and your family.
To prevent the black from drying up in the screen so fast, try flooding the screen after you hit it. Lots of ink in the mesh will take much longer to dry out.
I generally don't have that issue with the process inks. That said, yes, when you are using waterbase inks in general it's a good idea to flood between prints.
Well, I tried answering a comment on my tablet and managed to hide the user's comments from the channel so: Salina Fischer said: "the dots where you had it level is showing". To respond: I'm guessing you mean that I'm also printing the registration marks that are on the screen. This is true because since this is just a rag print I didn't bother to tape them off before I started printing. If this was going on a shirt to wear, I would make sure the registration marks are taped off and nothing would print through. Just simple painters tape is all it takes, though you can buy tape specifically made to cover any unnecessary holes.
I'm surprised he didn't have black lines on that last later hitting it one section at a time. That was a no no. I've not had any luck ever doing that. which then again maybe it is different on T-shirts than it is on other materials. I wouldn't be that risky with T-shirts lol
***** Well, I did mention that I misplaced my larger squeegee which is the only reason I did that. That also was a dead T-shirt. Would I have done that on a shirt that was actually going to someone? No, I wouldn't have started until I made or found a larger squeegee. Also, when I used the smaller squeegee I kept the left edge in a clear area so there was no doubling of ink in any single spot...but I wouldn't recommend making a habit of it.
I know it was a test as you said. I wasn't meaning to criticize. I really was just shocked it didn't blur or leave lines. I've done that and couldn't get it to work out well. Mine blurred more than anything where the contact around each push would pick up ink on the bottom of the screen and blur my lines.
***** Ah, that being the case, on this print I had two things going for me. I had a very tight screen and process inks are very thin. They don't really pick back up again. If it has been regular plastisol or thick water base I might have run into more trouble than I did.
Cesar Garcia No for two reasons. I don't have the original files because the positives were sent to me by a friend to help me expand my ability AND the design isn't mine, it belongs to Marvel Comics and therefore Disney. I'm not distributing their intellectual property. But I will be making a new separation video using Adobe Illustrator and Ghostscript/GhostView. Do you will be able to try it yourself.
Sharing isn't the problem. The problem lies within a sales or profit being made from it. Though Disney is well known for making examples out of us little guys, they can't do anything by law if there's no profit being made. So sharing would be fine as long as you're not SELLING their intellectual property.
Love your home screen printing system even though it is a one colour system. Love your CMYK printing but as a printer that has used Plastisol for over 30 years, hate the damn stuff. It is the WMD of inks. There is a great ink based in the U.S.A. that is water based and very eco-friendly and easy to cure that you should check out. I'm in Australia but this ink is revolutionary. Great ink for dark (black) garments also. Get back to me id you want to know more because you could turn your hobby into a business. I'm just letting you know because I have been in the industry for a long time and want to fill you in on the better products that you can buy cheaper in the USA. Expensive here in Australia. :)
I'm using waterbased ink here...and I'm doing CMYK on a 1 color system? I've done up to 5 spot colors and dabbled a little in simulated process. One station, hobby level, newby press I can take, but a "1 colour system"? I'm always interested in WB products that are easy to work with. Most of the blacks I've used tend to dry in the screen way too quickly. I do like the results I get with Plastisol, but I'm not wild about the cleanup.
go to : t-shirtforums.com and look up Tygeron. Read what he has to say, ask questions, show what you can do and maybe he'll take pity on you like he did me.
I know, I know. I keep telling you that I'm going to try it and then I forget until it's time to play with my printer again. Probably forgetting because I inhale too much spray when I do get around to printing.
John, I just pulled the print. The guy that gets the real credit here is Blackredtailangel. He has been providing me hints and tips for about 3 years now. Plus he sent me the films to do this video.
Hey Cyclesurgeon, just wanted to ask, are you not supposed to let the ink on the shirt dry between each color you put down? I think it's called "flashing"? I've just been watching some other videos, and I was under the impression that if you don't flash each color straight away you'll end up with a big mess
No flashing when you're doing CMYK. Process inks are much thinner than regular printing inks with the intent of allowing them to mix on the printed surface, thereby creating all of the color shades from just 4 colors.
Super demo! Your registration method is simple and easy to follow. I have done unregistered 2 color, never hoping to do process, but now that I've seen your demo, I just might give it a try! Thanks a million! One question: Do you have a screen angle recommendation for 110 screens for your color plates, or does that even figure into the process?
+Jean pSmith I would love to take credit for the method, but aside from the magnets, this is how they've been doing it in third world countries forever. As far as the angles, CMYK: 15 45 75 75 but that is what friend and mentor Blackredtailangel set up when he made the film. I'm still working on techniques myself.
Just out of curiosity have you ever thought of doing plastisol transfers, I just started and I haven't quite nailed , but the feel and print comes out so so nice, and when doing white on black the coverage is amazing ,
Nice looking print, but please do something about your flooding technique. I actually find it painful to watch. I teach silkscreen and I'd hate to think of anyone copying that way of doing it. I'm sure your mentor would be with me on that one!
In this one a friend of mine did. His youtube name is blackredtailangel. In the next video I did. The Iron Man print is just for demo purposes and not something that either of us have reproduced for sale.
Way before my time in screen printing. I just realized that I've been playing with this stuff for almost 10 years already, but I've always had photoemulsion to work with. I've never had to mix chemicals or razor cut my stencils.
just something that bothered me on your first print, when you drop ink into the screen for the first time, try to put it on the screen about the length of the squeegee instead of the design... it lubricates the blade on the first flood, so that the blade doesn't grip the screen, and you cut out all that dancing with the ink :)
I love it! how did you make your lay outs.? I only know one layout for one color in one picture...can you share how you make all those pictures? My grade one pupils will surely enjoy my different colors then ...thanks.
I didn't create the films for this print, a friend did them for me to get me started with process printing. I did, however, do a video on doing 4 color separations in photoshop. Have a look at the playlist. Oh, and thank you.
Now that you mention it, He's got two more up. I haven't watched them, but his descriptions mention me several times...and my views took another jump and a few more people subscribed. I'd send him a big thanks, but he's still got me blocked.
Timothy Rowan The screen does get slightly contaminated, however, the location of the off color ink is in a location where that color belongs on the t-shirt, so what does go down on the shirt is going down in the right place. Unlike normal screen inks, however, process ink is so thin that the amount of ink picked up by the screen is minimal enough that it usually won't cause any issues.
Once you have all your screens registered, you put a piece of tape over the registration marks (usually on the shirt side of the screen). Since I was printing on a rag I didn't worry about that for the video, but it's as simple as 4 small pieces of cheap packing tape.
Hmmm, it seems my original response got deleted...OMG, Now I'm blocking myself!!! ;) One thing at a time. First I had to get desktop recording software, now I have to finish Mrs. Surgeon's project, and once she is happy, I'll be able to accommodate that tutorial. Have patience and you will be rewarded.
Samantha Decker For this one I think it was the house dual cure from screen print super store...but I've done it with speedball and McDermid Neptune also.
How do you make sure that when you load your screens onto the press that the following screen your loading is in the same location as the registration marks as the previous screen?
Hey! super newbie here, I've got a quick question for you.. how were you able to break down your original photo into transparents that allowed you to do different colors? This turned out AMAZING by the way for your first time color stacking!!! Hope to hear back & thanks for your time:) XOXO
+Medo Kamal Sorry for the delay Medo, this is the first I've seen your question. Yes, I do use Photoshop, Illustrator, and even Paint Shop Pro. There are many videos on doing film positives out there. Check out Catspitproductionsllc's channel. He does a great job and I've learned a lot from him.
could i take a full colour image and just switch off the individual colours in photoshop to create 4 different prints for cmyk or would that not work??
Correct me if I am wrong. I have been doing some research and I have seen other people "burning" the image to be printed on the screen itself; they use the term "exposure". The major difference between their method and the use of "film positives" is speed, control and maybe quality? in their favor?
Because of cost, Direct to Screen (DTS) systems tend to be restricted to a high output shop, not for a hobby shop such as mine. There's two types: One prints your stencil ready to print and the other prints your positive image on a coated screen ready for exposure (synonymous with burning). The first type breaks down much faster than a normal coated screen. I'm told that the quality is excellent on the second type. I'm also told that the cost of the second type starts about $30K, so it better be better, faster, and make peanut butter sandwiches while not in use.
Hey. Greatings from Mexico! My name is Viri and I'm new on this. I have being looking for a video that helps me to start my small business at home. Can you explain what did you did to get the imagen on the frame? I see you didn't reveal anything. If you dont have time maybe you can send me the link to the tecnique? Muchas gracias y suerte con tus sueños. Que Dios te bendiga.
djbenjammin Actually the Yudu screens have nothing to do with the emulsion that I used. On the Iron Man print I used the Screen Printing Super Store's house brand Diazo Emulsion. On the Superman and Thor prints I've got on the website I used MacDermit Neptune Potopolymer Emulsion.
cyclesurgeon Thank you sir for the clarification. I'm just starting out with my own DIY 4 color screen press. Hoping to produce good 4 color projects like you in no time!
Look on the website and at the rest of the channel. There's downloadable plans on the site and I show the latest versions of that setup in later videos.
Color separation for CMYK/RGB. Each color from an image is separated using image editor such as Photoshop, and then each separation is printed on separate films. The yellow separation is then used to print Yellow, Cyan for Cyan etc. CMYK itself means Cyan Magenta Yellow Key(Black) - the end result is combining of all 4 colors to arrive at the final print.
The colors shown in the video: CMYK: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black: Thus the name CMYK process. But you do need to use ink made for process printing.
Nope not at all!! Great to see people out there with a passion like ours - espesh making videos to help others!! Keep it up & check us out at colourworks.kiwi if you ever need advise yourself!
hey man..id like yo ask if it will work in plastisol?should I print ry print dry or just print it wet on wet in plastisol? plus is that the sequence of printing cmyk like yellow magenta cyan then black??thanks a lot..ill try my print later my first cmyk goodluck to me ..thanks
You need to use ink that is designated for CMYK printing. There is plastisol made for it but it still needs to be a CMYK ink. Sequence is normally from light to dark, but you may have to play with the order to get the best outcome.
i want to screen print my logo here its actually simple with 6 colors black four orbs and 10111101 in purple under the bitsfit entertainment part.... i want to make small ones i had a dream about using bottle caps for frames they would be good for business cards or shirt logos for tags. i dont like this photoemulsion method because its too expnsive for me.
Well, if you aren't going to do a process print, I guess you can use vinyl. Other than that, I have no idea how you are going to screen print without using some sort of photo emulsion.
The previous color will stick to the bottom of the screen, but only in the areas without holes. In other words, the previous color will stick, but only in spots where it belongs so it won't matter as long as we do things right.
First I'm not being notified of new posts and now posts are disappearing. Sorry Terry, I didn't delete anything but your post...and my reply are gone. I'm really starting to not like the google association with RUclips!
Hi- Love your demonstration. What is that green film material that you are using and where do you buy it? I did printing in high school where I used that material (if i'm not mistaken.. It has 2 'sides' one clear, one green.. correct?) and i'm looking to start making new designs again, but I can't remember the name of that film! Thank you!
Well, I'm using a liquid photo emulsion that you apply to both sides and when it dries it is ready to expose like film. You probably used an emulsion sheet when you were in high school. You can get both from any print supply company like Catspitproductionsllc, Ryonet, or Screen Printing Super Store.
I was using 210 and 110 (US) mesh screens because that was all Yudu had at the time. I've since ditched the Yudu screens so if I was to do it today I would use something more in the 300 range for better resolution.
When done right the tack doesn't transfer to the material, which is why your pallet gets furry. The stuff I use is water soluble so what little might stay on the shirt is gone after the first wash.
I was using a 210 mesh, Screen Printing Super Store house brand diazo emulsion, and Speedball waterbased process ink. I don't do too much process printing so I didn't go nuts with the pro-grade stuff.
nelson vallarta that was just speedball process ink (cheap waterbase) and 220 yudu screens. I still have some of the ink but I've long since switched to professionally stretched screens.
As I mentioned in the video, I didn't produce the film positives: The were sent to me to play with. So what else am I going to say about them? As far as push/pull, that's a matter of debate with many warnings about developing forearm/wrist problems with pulling. I get a better result pushing than pulling. Check out some of the videos put out by Jonathan at Catspitproductionsllc.
DanieleBecchetti Maybe $20 plus 2 dead hard drives for the magnets. 2ea 2 X 4s (including the one I used to build the screens). 1 6 ft 1X12, and a 16X16 piece of 3/4 in melamine for the platen. You can also take a pallet apart and with a bit of sanding make the same thing for nothing except the cost of the hardware and melamine.
OK, just got a peek at the man's latest offering. I think you're right, he's totally gone now. Geeze, if I wasn't such a misleading fraud poser, I would be insulted ;)
I just notice the hard drive magnets - that's brilliant!
You sir have made my day, just as I was becoming disillusioned with the whole idea of screen printing I come across your video, very
Insightful and the best part you have the plans for your contraptions on your website. griddle heat press!! lol amazing....
I've been screen printing for 30 years and this is a perfect example of a person who is smart and creative and puts ten times more work into their projects than is necessary just to call it DIY. Sadly, this is the most common issue among high school programs in the schools who even offer this craft.
Mike Dillon Thanks Mike...I think ;) You are absolutely right. I do a lot of things just to see if I can do it once or twice...Those screens I used in this video as an example. As to the rest, it's fun and keeps me out of the wife's hair when I start getting bored.
What I tell the schools is I wish they would see this as vocational training and not a hodge podge art class because some of these kids might actually desire a career in this business and having real guidance to the science behind the craft is as important as staying out of the wife's hair. Just my opinion... I like your approach.... adventurous and fearless but I wish it was tempered with realistic orientation.
Well, this is the only place I demo any kind of screen printing, but tell ya what: I do want people to get the best I can give so give me some examples where I can still be me and make the lessons more real life. After all, I'm just the garage boy you see in the videos and I don't really try to make a living out of any of this stuff. It just keeps me sane vs my insane professional life.
cyclesurgeon You have a cool forum. People ask you questions and are actually learning. If I could offer a suggestion of how you can stay true to you and still fulfill that desire to learn inherent in your forum I would say elaborate more on where you have improvised and why. Right now if I were a beginner watching your videos I would think process screens are a 110 mesh with a 37 line screen. Your "teaching moment" could include the generally accepted formula for determining screen mesh and proper process line screen followed by the explanation THIS is what I have to work with so what I do to COMPENSATE is...
Just a thought and I appreciate your open mind. I hope you are wildly successful in teaching people the mechanics, the art and the science of screen printing.
Mike Dillon Gotcha.
I watched your videos, and for that being your first CMYK print, that was a wonderful job. Two thumbs up.
I've heard of one guy using old dishwasher racks for screen holders.
Those process prints are looking good!
I've heard of that one too. Unfortunately I'm space limited in the workshop these days. Thanks, complements are always encouraged.
For that being your first CMYK print, that was a wonderful job. Terri thumbs up!!!
Wow. Pretty sweet. Is there a Doctor in the house?
Be sure to post videos when you take a few weekends and build that 10 color auto. LOL!
If you do any more process with the same 4 screen combo, use the higher mesh and a full width squeegee for the Black for a full-width pull instead of multiple pulls.
You're an inspiration. As a matter of fact you've inspired a whole series of videos!!
Haaa-haaa!!
Hey thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I was j/k bout the polish part,
i really liked it , and i will look at the other videos. Thanks again an
HAPPY Holidays to you and your family.
(smiles, shakes head) you're a sick man Dr...God love ya for it.
Yeah, you're not the only one. The idea isn't for me to teach printing, it was just to show that it can be done with the equipment I have.
Thanks :) It was a fun project. Now I'm working on learning to do the artwork myself.
To prevent the black from drying up in the screen so fast, try flooding the screen after you hit it. Lots of ink in the mesh will take much longer to dry out.
I generally don't have that issue with the process inks. That said, yes, when you are using waterbase inks in general it's a good idea to flood between prints.
Well, I tried answering a comment on my tablet and managed to hide the user's comments from the channel so:
Salina Fischer said: "the dots where you had it level is showing".
To respond: I'm guessing you mean that I'm also printing the registration marks that are on the screen. This is true because since this is just a rag print I didn't bother to tape them off before I started printing. If this was going on a shirt to wear, I would make sure the registration marks are taped off and nothing would print through. Just simple painters tape is all it takes, though you can buy tape specifically made to cover any unnecessary holes.
anybody else blown away that this actually worked?
I'm surprised he didn't have black lines on that last later hitting it one section at a time. That was a no no. I've not had any luck ever doing that. which then again maybe it is different on T-shirts than it is on other materials. I wouldn't be that risky with T-shirts lol
*****
Well, I did mention that I misplaced my larger squeegee which is the only reason I did that. That also was a dead T-shirt. Would I have done that on a shirt that was actually going to someone? No, I wouldn't have started until I made or found a larger squeegee. Also, when I used the smaller squeegee I kept the left edge in a clear area so there was no doubling of ink in any single spot...but I wouldn't recommend making a habit of it.
I know it was a test as you said. I wasn't meaning to criticize. I really was just shocked it didn't blur or leave lines. I've done that and couldn't get it to work out well. Mine blurred more than anything where the contact around each push would pick up ink on the bottom of the screen and blur my lines.
*****
Ah, that being the case, on this print I had two things going for me. I had a very tight screen and process inks are very thin. They don't really pick back up again. If it has been regular plastisol or thick water base I might have run into more trouble than I did.
That's frickin sweet man! Awesome job :)
It was OK for a first try. I haven't had a chance to practice the technique since. But thanks, I do try.
That's the video I'm working on now. There are postings on CMYK printing on the T-shirtforums . com that might help in the mean time.
Enjoyed the view…nice video!
For Lazaro: The film put down to create the screen are called film positives...or the portion of the image you want to print represented by the black.
Cesar Garcia
No for two reasons. I don't have the original files because the positives were sent to me by a friend to help me expand my ability AND the design isn't mine, it belongs to Marvel Comics and therefore Disney. I'm not distributing their intellectual property. But I will be making a new separation video using Adobe Illustrator and Ghostscript/GhostView. Do you will be able to try it yourself.
Sharing isn't the problem. The problem lies within a sales or profit being made from it. Though Disney is well known for making examples out of us little guys, they can't do anything by law if there's no profit being made. So sharing would be fine as long as you're not SELLING their intellectual property.
Love your home screen printing system even though it is a one colour system. Love your CMYK printing but as a printer that has used Plastisol for over 30 years, hate the damn stuff. It is the WMD of inks.
There is a great ink based in the U.S.A. that is water based and very eco-friendly and easy to cure that you should check out.
I'm in Australia but this ink is revolutionary. Great ink for dark (black) garments also.
Get back to me id you want to know more because you could turn your hobby into a business.
I'm just letting you know because I have been in the industry for a long time and want to fill you in on the better products that you can buy cheaper in the USA. Expensive here in Australia. :)
I'm using waterbased ink here...and I'm doing CMYK on a 1 color system? I've done up to 5 spot colors and dabbled a little in simulated process. One station, hobby level, newby press I can take, but a "1 colour system"?
I'm always interested in WB products that are easy to work with. Most of the blacks I've used tend to dry in the screen way too quickly.
I do like the results I get with Plastisol, but I'm not wild about the cleanup.
No, I pretty much stick to all cotton garment printing. Plus I'm not sure my ghetto heat press would actually transfer the image very well.
I live in Fort Wayne, IN. I'm looking to get into screen printing as a hobby and possibly make some extra cash.
Ejoyed the video. Thanks!
go to : t-shirtforums.com and look up Tygeron. Read what he has to say, ask questions, show what you can do and maybe he'll take pity on you like he did me.
Oh for sure. I do kind of hate to reclaim the IM screens since they turned out so well on the first try,
I know, I know. I keep telling you that I'm going to try it and then I forget until it's time to play with my printer again. Probably forgetting because I inhale too much spray when I do get around to printing.
John, I just pulled the print. The guy that gets the real credit here is Blackredtailangel. He has been providing me hints and tips for about 3 years now. Plus he sent me the films to do this video.
I'm impress on you're DIY machine....
I'm having fun with it.
wow.. thanks for this.. it gives inspiration. ^_^ I do this not for business.. i just love it..
+julrose patricio Me niether, me too ;)
Hey Cyclesurgeon, just wanted to ask, are you not supposed to let the ink on the shirt dry between each color you put down? I think it's called "flashing"? I've just been watching some other videos, and I was under the impression that if you don't flash each color straight away you'll end up with a big mess
No flashing when you're doing CMYK. Process inks are much thinner than regular printing inks with the intent of allowing them to mix on the printed surface, thereby creating all of the color shades from just 4 colors.
Super demo! Your registration method is simple and easy to follow. I have done unregistered 2 color, never hoping to do process, but now that I've seen your demo, I just might give it a try! Thanks a million!
One question: Do you have a screen angle recommendation for 110 screens for your color plates, or does that even figure into the process?
+Jean pSmith I would love to take credit for the method, but aside from the magnets, this is how they've been doing it in third world countries forever. As far as the angles, CMYK: 15 45 75 75 but that is what friend and mentor Blackredtailangel set up when he made the film. I'm still working on techniques myself.
Just out of curiosity have you ever thought of doing plastisol transfers, I just started and I haven't quite nailed , but the feel and print comes out so so nice, and when doing white on black the coverage is amazing ,
Thanks for your help .I appreciate it
That was impressive wow!
Nice looking print, but please do something about your flooding technique. I actually find it painful to watch. I teach silkscreen and I'd hate to think of anyone copying that way of doing it. I'm sure your mentor would be with me on that one!
wow. just wow. that was Great!!
In this one a friend of mine did. His youtube name is blackredtailangel. In the next video I did. The Iron Man print is just for demo purposes and not something that either of us have reproduced for sale.
very cool !!!
Back in the day, I cut my images by hand on amberlith.
Way before my time in screen printing. I just realized that I've been playing with this stuff for almost 10 years already, but I've always had photoemulsion to work with. I've never had to mix chemicals or razor cut my stencils.
I hear that...
yeah...now those were times of skill...these young new age printers cant even stand in our shadow
just something that bothered me on your first print, when you drop ink into the screen for the first time, try to put it on the screen about the length of the squeegee instead of the design... it lubricates the blade on the first flood, so that the blade doesn't grip the screen, and you cut out all that dancing with the ink :)
Exactly correct. A bit of misjudgement on my part.
Great job printing the 4 color process, do you have a video on how you built the screen printing press ?
+Johnny Niko several just look on the channel
hello, very good your picture, I'm starting with the silkscreen few threads are shablones you worked with the iron man? ... thank you very much
I love it! how did you make your lay outs.? I only know one layout for one color in one picture...can you share how you make all those pictures? My grade one pupils will surely enjoy my different colors then
...thanks.
I didn't create the films for this print, a friend did them for me to get me started with process printing. I did, however, do a video on doing 4 color separations in photoshop. Have a look at the playlist. Oh, and thank you.
Now that you mention it, He's got two more up. I haven't watched them, but his descriptions mention me several times...and my views took another jump and a few more people subscribed. I'd send him a big thanks, but he's still got me blocked.
I'm curious on your Press. I'm looking to build one that will make it easier to register. Do you have plans/designs for your press?
Great video!
go to the website: www.craftedbychristopher.com and check out the plans and projects section. There's free plans for everything there.
That was so helpful... thank you so much!
How come the tees don't get contaminated. Like the red frame doesn't pick up yellow on the back when you put it down
Timothy Rowan The screen does get slightly contaminated, however, the location of the off color ink is in a location where that color belongs on the t-shirt, so what does go down on the shirt is going down in the right place. Unlike normal screen inks, however, process ink is so thin that the amount of ink picked up by the screen is minimal enough that it usually won't cause any issues.
But now you have the check marks printed on your shirt as well. Is there any way to avoid that?
Once you have all your screens registered, you put a piece of tape over the registration marks (usually on the shirt side of the screen). Since I was printing on a rag I didn't worry about that for the video, but it's as simple as 4 small pieces of cheap packing tape.
Hmmm, it seems my original response got deleted...OMG, Now I'm blocking myself!!! ;)
One thing at a time. First I had to get desktop recording software, now I have to finish Mrs. Surgeon's project, and once she is happy, I'll be able to accommodate that tutorial. Have patience and you will be rewarded.
If you don't mind me asking, what kind of emulsion are you using?
Samantha Decker For this one I think it was the house dual cure from screen print super store...but I've done it with speedball and McDermid Neptune also.
Oh and I forgot to ask...Where do you teach? I could use some hands on instruction since the guy that's been helping me is 2000 miles away from me.
Hey! I was wondering if you could make a video on how to make those film positives! It would mean a lot! Cause I have no idea how to do that!
How do you make sure that when you load your screens onto the press that the following screen your loading is in the same location as the registration marks as the previous screen?
Hey Ivan, See my video "Using 3 Point Registration". It will explain all. Cheers!
nice
Hey! super newbie here, I've got a quick question for you.. how were you able to break down your original photo into transparents that allowed you to do different colors? This turned out AMAZING by the way for your first time color stacking!!! Hope to hear back & thanks for your time:) XOXO
As I mentioned in the video, I didn't to the separations for this one. That said, I do have two other videos on color separations on my channel.
That screenholder looks diy... How did you make the micro adjustments? I tried looking for a video on it but I didn't find one.
There have been many mods and upgrades since this video was done. See: ruclips.net/video/Rd-Dl5KnqDY/видео.html
Oh and for the micros, there is another video on setting up the screens: ruclips.net/video/OLek7OaCQ68/видео.html
@@cyclesurgeon Much thanks for the answer. gave them a thumbs u, added them to a playlist and everything!
hey brother I'm from Egypt. do you've a video about making the film positives? do you use a photoshop program to illuminate the colors?
thanks a lot
+Medo Kamal Sorry for the delay Medo, this is the first I've seen your question. Yes, I do use Photoshop, Illustrator, and even Paint Shop Pro. There are many videos on doing film positives out there. Check out Catspitproductionsllc's channel. He does a great job and I've learned a lot from him.
i like, wish i had a mentor
could i take a full colour image and just switch off the individual colours in photoshop to create 4 different prints for cmyk or would that not work??
Hey did you teased us when r u coming out with your vid on how to do the positives like the IM positives
Correct me if I am wrong. I have been doing some research and I have seen other people "burning" the image to be printed on the screen itself; they use the term "exposure". The major difference between their method and the use of "film positives" is speed, control and maybe quality? in their favor?
Because of cost, Direct to Screen (DTS) systems tend to be restricted to a high output shop, not for a hobby shop such as mine. There's two types: One prints your stencil ready to print and the other prints your positive image on a coated screen ready for exposure (synonymous with burning). The first type breaks down much faster than a normal coated screen. I'm told that the quality is excellent on the second type. I'm also told that the cost of the second type starts about $30K, so it better be better, faster, and make peanut butter sandwiches while not in use.
Great Job!! God Bless!! :)
Kerwin Fernandes thanks
Hey. Greatings from Mexico! My name is Viri and I'm new on this. I have being looking for a video that helps me to start my small business at home. Can you explain what did you did to get the imagen on the frame? I see you didn't reveal anything. If you dont have time maybe you can send me the link to the tecnique?
Muchas gracias y suerte con tus sueños. Que Dios te bendiga.
Thanks for the vid.
when i buy these plastisols ink colors, do i just ask for cyan, mayenta, yellow and black?
You need to use inks designated for 4 color process. Have a look here: www.silkscreeningsupplies.com/screen-printing-process-inks
Great video, what type of photo emulsion did you use for the screens?
Nevermind you used the yudu photo screens.
djbenjammin Actually the Yudu screens have nothing to do with the emulsion that I used. On the Iron Man print I used the Screen Printing Super Store's house brand Diazo Emulsion. On the Superman and Thor prints I've got on the website I used MacDermit Neptune Potopolymer Emulsion.
cyclesurgeon
Thank you sir for the clarification. I'm just starting out with my own DIY 4 color screen press. Hoping to produce good 4 color projects like you in no time!
Good luck. Be sure to post some pictures or video!! What kind of press are you building?
Wow . if you do not mind could you point in the right dorection of your build for this setup.
Look on the website and at the rest of the channel. There's downloadable plans on the site and I show the latest versions of that setup in later videos.
How do you get all those different parts to make 1 picture?
Color separation for CMYK/RGB. Each color from an image is separated using image editor such as Photoshop, and then each separation is printed on separate films. The yellow separation is then used to print Yellow, Cyan for Cyan etc. CMYK itself means Cyan Magenta Yellow Key(Black) - the end result is combining of all 4 colors to arrive at the final print.
TyrannosaurHex
Hi what color paint do you use for this process?
The colors shown in the video: CMYK: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black: Thus the name CMYK process. But you do need to use ink made for process printing.
what are the things called that you need to start getting the images . ( silk Screens)
If you do make sure u show us ha !
cool
hello can I know how you separate the 4 colors in four-color process to print in serigraphy ?? please thank you
ruclips.net/video/yhGf3eh469Y/видео.html enjoy
Thanks! Super useful :)
Well thank you very much...are you sure you guys aren't actually having a good chuckle on this one ;)?
Nope not at all!! Great to see people out there with a passion like ours - espesh making videos to help others!! Keep it up & check us out at colourworks.kiwi if you ever need advise yourself!
Are you drying between two colors? For example Magenta (drying) Cyan (drying)...
No, you are seeing the print in real time. The ink is intended to mix on the substrate.
thank you
hey man..id like yo ask if it will work in plastisol?should I print ry print dry or just print it wet on wet in plastisol? plus is that the sequence of printing cmyk like yellow magenta cyan then black??thanks a lot..ill try my print later my first cmyk goodluck to me ..thanks
plust can I double coat for every color or just one coat?
You need to use ink that is designated for CMYK printing. There is plastisol made for it but it still needs to be a CMYK ink. Sequence is normally from light to dark, but you may have to play with the order to get the best outcome.
nice tutorial. do you have a construction plan of your printing machine?
But of course. Plans are at www.craftedbychristopher.com/wwws/spstuff.htm. They're free to download so have fun!
i want to screen print my logo here its actually simple with 6 colors black four orbs and 10111101 in purple under the bitsfit entertainment part.... i want to make small ones i had a dream about using bottle caps for frames they would be good for business cards or shirt logos for tags. i dont like this photoemulsion method because its too expnsive for me.
Well, if you aren't going to do a process print, I guess you can use vinyl. Other than that, I have no idea how you are going to screen print without using some sort of photo emulsion.
what is the mesh count on the screens you are using for this?
to the best of my recollection all 4 were 220. But again, this was 4 years ago and since I can't remember what I had for dinner....
WHO MAKE THE COLOR SEPARATION ?
no entiendo porque el color anterior no se pega al nuevo marco que se va colocando
The previous color will stick to the bottom of the screen, but only in the areas without holes. In other words, the previous color will stick, but only in spots where it belongs so it won't matter as long as we do things right.
cuando realice el mismo proceso se me combinaron los dos colores, algo debo de estar haciendo mal :(
Is your artwork done in half tones? You have to do a proper separation on the artwork or else you won't get the proper mix for your colors.
Do you have to cure or heat the ink after all is said and done??
Oh yes, you always have to cure the ink for it to be permanent.
@@cyclesurgeon How do you cure it?
@@kathy5939 Well, back then I used a heat gun. Now I use my flash dryer or my home made shirt dryer.
is very cool tho
do you have the iroman picture in the 4 parts for try to do it :D
First I'm not being notified of new posts and now posts are disappearing. Sorry Terry, I didn't delete anything but your post...and my reply are gone. I'm really starting to not like the google association with RUclips!
Hi- Love your demonstration. What is that green film material that you are using and where do you buy it? I did printing in high school where I used that material (if i'm not mistaken.. It has 2 'sides' one clear, one green.. correct?) and i'm looking to start making new designs again, but I can't remember the name of that film! Thank you!
Well, I'm using a liquid photo emulsion that you apply to both sides and when it dries it is ready to expose like film. You probably used an emulsion sheet when you were in high school. You can get both from any print supply company like Catspitproductionsllc, Ryonet, or Screen Printing Super Store.
good shit
It's available ;)
What is the screen mesh number you use sir?
I was using 210 and 110 (US) mesh screens because that was all Yudu had at the time. I've since ditched the Yudu screens so if I was to do it today I would use something more in the 300 range for better resolution.
How do you clean the tack off
When done right the tack doesn't transfer to the material, which is why your pallet gets furry. The stuff I use is water soluble so what little might stay on the shirt is gone after the first wash.
hi brother what is mesh number you use and what the name of ink Plastisol Inks or what ?
I was using a 210 mesh, Screen Printing Super Store house brand diazo emulsion, and Speedball waterbased process ink. I don't do too much process printing so I didn't go nuts with the pro-grade stuff.
ty brother
What is the screen mesh and brand of ink you are using?
nelson vallarta that was just speedball process ink (cheap waterbase) and 220 yudu screens. I still have some of the ink but I've long since switched to professionally stretched screens.
thank you Sir.... speedball process ink is not available here in Saudi Arabia, sadly
nelson vallarta you can do better. If you have a source for screen printing supplies the should have process ink.
listen, maybe a little bit more information on the film positives would be nice.
And also are you Polish? cause its easier to pull than it is to push.
As I mentioned in the video, I didn't produce the film positives: The were sent to me to play with. So what else am I going to say about them? As far as push/pull, that's a matter of debate with many warnings about developing forearm/wrist problems with pulling. I get a better result pushing than pulling. Check out some of the videos put out by Jonathan at Catspitproductionsllc.
How much would charge me for four color postives
I don't do films for other people. I'm pretty sure you can find someone via www.t-shirtforums.com/
You needle it!!!!!!!
Hi how to seperate that film positive plrase explait it 😊
I've got 3 different separation videos up. Go find one of those.
Did you say "old beat up teste"
Test Tee Test Tee...the other would have been too painful to print on.
That's awesome. Thanks for the informative video too! :)
Is that a DIY machine?
Yes it is. I show how it's built in an earlier video.
cyclesurgeon Cool! Caould you pls tell me how much did it cost to built (wood, silk etc) just to figure out?
DanieleBecchetti Maybe $20 plus 2 dead hard drives for the magnets. 2ea 2 X 4s (including the one I used to build the screens). 1 6 ft 1X12, and a 16X16 piece of 3/4 in melamine for the platen. You can also take a pallet apart and with a bit of sanding make the same thing for nothing except the cost of the hardware and melamine.
What kind of ink do you use?
This was just some Speedball process ink. Waterbase and not too expensive to experiment with.
what is cmyk?
+Edward Chua cyan, magenta, yellow, and key (black)
What is ur pallete.dimension sir?
16 X 16 in
What size are those 🎥 positives can you send me those I'll pay $$$
Those were letter size 8.5 x 11. No, I can't send copyright protected material. These were demonstration only. Sorry!
OK, just got a peek at the man's latest offering. I think you're right, he's totally gone now. Geeze, if I wasn't such a misleading fraud poser, I would be insulted ;)
Sir no of mess please