Hi Greg, when you shoot "raw" movies, say at 1080p, then that movie is the result of a lot of image processing. Here raw is pretty cooked. So when you discuss sharpening, it is clear that the raw movie is subjected to that. Did you test by any chance if sharpening settings affect raw stills?
Thanks for your question! I tested the sharpening settings and found that it looks in general less "digital" it's a personal preference but I think that more people prefer a slightly softer image. :)
HI GREG IM HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE FILE BECAUSE IT DOES NOT APEAR ON MY MEMORICARD IN THE CAMERA! IT TELLS ME THAT THERE IS NO LOG FILE TO DOWNLOAD. ALSO THE FILE LOOKS WHITE, LIKE BLANK, NOT LIKE YOURS. IM USING A MAC, WOULD IT HAVE TO DO SOMETHING WITH THAT ? PLS HELP
Hey Johan! I’m sorry to see you struggling with this. Are you sure you formatted your card correctly on the Mac as a FAT32? I’ll see what I can do from my side and get back to you ASAP
Hey Greg I’ve use the settings for my latest Video on my channel love it 👏 but I have a question pertaining to pictures should my settings be the same for pictures like the kelvin & Flat or I should change it ?
Hey! It's nice to hear that you and other people watching my videos are actually applying these things! It warms my heart a lot 😄 To answer your question, you can apply basically the same settings for both photo and video. You might not need active d-lighting for photos since you're shooting raw anyways... But your white balance setting will differ from situation to situation. And you also won't need to use the flat profile for photo, because your shooting raw 😉 I hope this answers your question, and let me know if you have any more questions , or if you have any specific videos you’d want me to make in the future 😉
Thank you so much Greg this information is so valuable to me because I really don’t have anyone to ask these questions about cameras 📸 keep up the good content I’ll be awaiting your new vid 🎥
Nice channel! I am a filmmaker! but I also get a lot of photo works! and I am looking for a camera that can do 2 in 1 without any problem! would z6 be a good option? and in the videos that are cinematic of course!! I'm between the Sony a7s iii and the Z6 but comparing prices I am more inclined on the z6 and its filmmarker kit! but I'm not quite sure yet 😭!! any advice is well received🙏
Thanks Gil! I'm really happy with my Nikon Z6 :) but if money isn't a problem I think in this case the Sony a7s III is the better option ;) You have to take into consideration the lens options. Obviously Sony has a bigger choice. and is in this case better. What I love about the Nikon, is the color science and the overall comfort and how easy their menu system is. The Nikon z lenses are also really good. They are a bit expensive but it's worth it. If you prefer Sony lenses, you'd be better off getting an a7 iii with a ninja v to get 10bit footage If you'd want me to make a video about this, let me know 😉
ohmygreg heyyyy thanks for answering me, and the detail is! that when you compare both camera equipment in price, the z6 together with the filmmarking kit is more convenient for me, I understand that Nikon gave an upgrade in the AF and released the prores raw!! and in addition to that I always get photo jobs!! It's a new camera, so I understand the lenses, but with the ones that already exist, I think I can do the job!! but if you could make a video of these details I would appreciate it🙏🙏🙏
Sorry to disagree. Your recommendations will work but require a lot of time in post production. Unless you have time to burn in post, do the following to get as much as possible right in camera: Unless the scene is back lit, set meter to matrix* - matrix with highlight preservation. The Z6 will produce perfect exposure with no blown highlights. If the scene is back lit, use an external incident meter if you have one, or switch to manual photo mode using the same ISO and shutter speed as that used in movie mode, set the camera's meter to spot and set the aperture based on the primary subject of the scene. For black skin, decrease exposure one stop, for caucasian, increase one stop. Then switch back to manual movie mode and set the aperture and ISO to match what you just metered in photo mode. If every shot in the scene is in the same light, set white balance by reading something pure white or grey. If the lighting varies around the scene, set the white balance to auto. Choose the flat profile and set sharpness to +6. If you leave sharpness at 0, the image will need to be sharpened in post, which is a major hassle. The film will probably be delivered in rec.709, so whatever you do, whether in camera or in post, the image will be crammed into its dynamic range, making external profiles a waste of time - they don't increase dynamic range - they just rearrange it. If you're delivering in something other than 709, you are probably way ahead of me, but briefly, shoot Pro Res Raw on an external recorder, and set sharpness to 0, since you will have a large budget for post production. It's sloppy work not to get ISO and white balance right while shooting, but if someone forgets, you can correct them in post with the latest version of Pro Res Raw.
Why no G-Log video sample for us to see?
Hey! I totally missed that opportunity, thanks for the feedback!
That's a great picture profile. I will test it out and let you know what I find. Thanks so much.
Cool! Would love to hear how it works out for you!
Seems you have put sharpening and mid-range sharpening to -3 and -5 on the profile which makes it very soft. Is this intentional?
Hey! Yes I was moving it arround to visually illustrate where and how to change the settings :)
Hi Greg, when you shoot "raw" movies, say at 1080p, then that movie is the result of a lot of image processing. Here raw is pretty cooked.
So when you discuss sharpening, it is clear that the raw movie is subjected to that.
Did you test by any chance if sharpening settings affect raw stills?
Thanks for your question! I tested the sharpening settings and found that it looks in general less "digital" it's a personal preference but I think that more people prefer a slightly softer image. :)
HI GREG IM HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE FILE BECAUSE IT DOES NOT APEAR ON MY MEMORICARD IN THE CAMERA! IT TELLS ME THAT THERE IS NO LOG FILE TO DOWNLOAD. ALSO THE FILE LOOKS WHITE, LIKE BLANK, NOT LIKE YOURS. IM USING A MAC, WOULD IT HAVE TO DO SOMETHING WITH THAT ? PLS HELP
Hey Johan! I’m sorry to see you struggling with this. Are you sure you formatted your card correctly on the Mac as a FAT32? I’ll see what I can do from my side and get back to you ASAP
Hey Greg, Just switched back from Sony to Nikon for... THE COLORS AND THE MENUS !!! (Sonny Menus are weirdo).
Yes I totally agree!!
Same....The button layout and menu on Sony is anti human lol😂
Hey Greg I’ve use the settings for my latest Video on my channel love it 👏 but I have a question pertaining to pictures should my settings be the same for pictures like the kelvin & Flat or I should change it ?
Hey! It's nice to hear that you and other people watching my videos are actually applying these things! It warms my heart a lot 😄
To answer your question, you can apply basically the same settings for both photo and video. You might not need active d-lighting for photos since you're shooting raw anyways... But your white balance setting will differ from situation to situation. And you also won't need to use the flat profile for photo, because your shooting raw 😉
I hope this answers your question, and let me know if you have any more questions , or if you have any specific videos you’d want me to make in the future 😉
Thank you so much Greg this information is so valuable to me because I really don’t have anyone to ask these questions about cameras 📸 keep up the good content I’ll be awaiting your new vid 🎥
Hey Greg recently i discover your channel and i love the content!!
Please, i want to know what is in the packages!!!!
Greetings from Cusco - Perú
Hey Yordan, Thanks for the kind words! I'm working on the secret video 😉
Nice channel! I am a filmmaker! but I also get a lot of photo works! and I am looking for a camera that can do 2 in 1 without any problem! would z6 be a good option? and in the videos that are cinematic of course!! I'm between the Sony a7s iii and the Z6 but comparing prices I am more inclined on the z6 and its filmmarker kit! but I'm not quite sure yet 😭!! any advice is well received🙏
Thanks Gil! I'm really happy with my Nikon Z6 :) but if money isn't a problem I think in this case the Sony a7s III is the better option ;)
You have to take into consideration the lens options. Obviously Sony has a bigger choice. and is in this case better. What I love about the Nikon, is the color science and the overall comfort and how easy their menu system is. The Nikon z lenses are also really good. They are a bit expensive but it's worth it.
If you prefer Sony lenses, you'd be better off getting an a7 iii with a ninja v to get 10bit footage
If you'd want me to make a video about this, let me know 😉
ohmygreg heyyyy thanks for answering me, and the detail is! that when you compare both camera equipment in price, the z6 together with the filmmarking kit is more convenient for me, I understand that Nikon gave an upgrade in the AF and released the prores raw!! and in addition to that I always get photo jobs!! It's a new camera, so I understand the lenses, but with the ones that already exist, I think I can do the job!! but if you could make a video of these details I would appreciate it🙏🙏🙏
I’ll try to find a way to get my hands on a Sony a7s iii and make that video for you! 😉
Awesome video thank you 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it !
I want to know what is in the packages :)
It's comin' soon 😉😏
ohmygreg I waiting 😉
Mov files work fine on ny PC.....why do ppl keep saying they don't?
Nice vid bro.. z6 is in my target list, so this vid gonna help me when i get one.. 😜 Given your deserving subscribe.. 👍👍😁😁
Thanks bro! That’s very kind of you🙌❤️
Thank you!
Sorry to disagree. Your recommendations will work but require a lot of time in post production. Unless you have time to burn in post, do the following to get as much as possible right in camera:
Unless the scene is back lit, set meter to matrix* - matrix with highlight preservation. The Z6 will produce perfect exposure with no blown highlights. If the scene is back lit, use an external incident meter if you have one, or switch to manual photo mode using the same ISO and shutter speed as that used in movie mode, set the camera's meter to spot and set the aperture based on the primary subject of the scene. For black skin, decrease exposure one stop, for caucasian, increase one stop. Then switch back to manual movie mode and set the aperture and ISO to match what you just metered in photo mode. If every shot in the scene is in the same light, set white balance by reading something pure white or grey. If the lighting varies around the scene, set the white balance to auto. Choose the flat profile and set sharpness to +6. If you leave sharpness at 0, the image will need to be sharpened in post, which is a major hassle. The film will probably be delivered in rec.709, so whatever you do, whether in camera or in post, the image will be crammed into its dynamic range, making external profiles a waste of time - they don't increase dynamic range - they just rearrange it.
If you're delivering in something other than 709, you are probably way ahead of me, but briefly, shoot Pro Res Raw on an external recorder, and set sharpness to 0, since you will have a large budget for post production. It's sloppy work not to get ISO and white balance right while shooting, but if someone forgets, you can correct them in post with the latest version of Pro Res Raw.
What's in the BOOXXX?!
Stufff??!!? I’m still working on the video I’ve been so busy lately... sorry bro 😆
Sub is so much less