You guys use to do speed runs on stock why don’t you go for a 100mph buggy challenge and test out 400amps esc with tp motor (cuz their popular but no review from you guys).
I have the pirates3 BX-8E it's basically the same car just different wheels controller and body shell. I broke my lower control arm when I ran into a parked car tire. I was running it on 4s
This car could be the number one, if we can get aluminum parts for front and rear arms ! Or full plastic parts for thoses arms to be more Stronger for bash.
Ok pal cool I get one I got to wate for the car yet I payed for on express delivery service on banggood but I spoke to customer service team and there out of stock and there waiting for a restock as I'm 1446 in line for one there selling like hot cakes at the moment I got to wait to next month but I had a option of the other one the v2 or wait for v3 to come back in grrrr but both of them have the same esc and motor and same body but that one is more expensive than this one becus the other one has the 3s Lipo with it that one is in stock but I want this one lol and I don't no what to do becus the v3 is better then the other one
If thats true that'd be great, from what I've seen, the plastics on these aren't the best. Wonder what the price difference is to make it worth getting these over the hobao.
I almost bought one for my kid for her birthday but I just couldn't do it with how the parts support looked and with how long it would take to get the parts.... So I dug a slash 4x4 out the closet and threw it together and gave it to her
Look fellas, you can use replacement parts from other R/C's, you may have to change the axles as well because of length being different and may have to change the spindles as well, etc for whatever may not work but since you are saying the plastics are fragile wouldn't be a bad idea to get like Team Associated RC8, or you could use ARRMA TYPHON parts but get RPM A-ARM'S or you can use the alloy ones from GPM
@@newtonfoster7581 doesnt that defeat the purpose? After everything you spend on this and the additional parts you're probably not too far off from a typhon or something else that you know is great quality and you're not trying to figure out what parts will/won't fit.
I just got this rc Jan 2021, partially due to watching this review. I have spent entire day getting this thing into running condition. All drive shafts were a "press" fit into the drive cups at he dog bones! The wheel driveshafts were the worst. Taking the car apart I had to Use a screwdriver to pry the cups a bit to get them out. My shafts are plated in a bronze/orange colour. I was able to remove the coating by filing and simply rotating the dog bones in the cups. Some of the coating was cut and a very thin sleeve slid off the pins. The black transmission shaft pins were not pressed symmetrically, again i had to correct that. Next are the diffs, the front one was so tight on the pinion/ring gear, I could count each tooth as it fell into another with in a detent fashiona, rear was also too tight. The sides of the differential housings (output coupling holes side) are not parallel, they are caved in (manufacturing/material defect). Due to this there is physical interference between the inner wall of the housing and the differential plastic hub (opposite ring gear). I had to file down the cup a little, use three 13x16 mm shims to get some clearance here as well as get the pinnion/ring gear to mash well. All screws into aluminium were just drenched in thread locker, had to use heat. Same thread locker was apply onto my front plastic C mount by carelessness eating away at the plastic and causing lots of play at the pivot ball. The motor mount is separate from the centre diff carrier, makes for a messy gear lash adjustment, and keeping the gears parallel is a pain. You-tubers are snapping the wheels at the hub to spokes area, I filled these thin spots with baking soda and super glue. Looks like ESC is not programable??? Yes comes with Dumborc radio, which is great. Body came smashed as the receiver was sitting loose on top of the car, two days and no response from Banggood, they closed my order and now it looks like it is mission impossible to get into contact with them. I only got this car ($350 usd delivered, no batt) because I live in Indonesia and Arrma products are x2 or more western prices. Yes it has lots of good looking components, the above issues however makes it a project and deffenetlyf not RTR, yes it ran out of the box but after purchase I did more digging and found vids showing all these issues. So $35 bucks of shims, a new body and a day of work I have a what should have came in the box. I am done with Chinese shit (have 5 now), the quality is not there. With this one, going up in price and seeing nice looking components I gave them one more and last try.
@@aerodynvdp7920 Please don't! You will have nothing but issues and it will turn you off to the hobby. I am constantly working on it, replacing parts......Yes when it runs it is fast and fun, but don't do it. I would strongly recommend a 1/10 Arrma or Traxxas. The 1/8th scale and aluminium which looks sexy is heavy and does not "crash" ell at all. The initial extra cost will be rewarded with fun rc and not a constant project. Arrma Bigrock or the Senton, what I really wanted but can't get it here. Also from now a 6 months beginner, please be careful with following suggestions of the youtuberes, so much of it is just fluff and does not address real world durability and quality. Hope this helps.
@@pawelwolski1316 Thank you Pawel for your comment. Finally, I'm thinking of getting a Tamiya kit in 1/10. I'm interested in the construction and the brand's reputation is probably a guarantee of quality.
Yo yo Stevo! Who's better than you? =o) Writing From NY! Good stuff. I bought the Maximus based off of your reviews. Thank you. I would like to see your take on the Redcat Landslide. I think its neck and neck with the Maximus, each have their pros and cons. But for the money, it is a hell of a beast. If you have a moment, it would be nice to hear your thoughts. Peace brotha. =o)
Check out No Problem Computer and R/C, he's a big REDCAT DEALER, check out that title I provided above, he does a lot of videos on the actual flaws of most every R/C he sales and if you request something you may have an issue with that he sales or sold you he'll take care of you I assure you. Check out him on RUclips, FB, & you can go to his website. On the website he has combo deals for most every vehicle, on here he does videos on the way to make the rigs more durable, plus M2C Racing makes a very strong and durable 7075 hardened alloy chassis for the LANDSLIDE, and he installs it on one that has other upgrades and fixes he came up with to get it as close to bulletproof as possible, there's a video of it on here as well. Hope this helps you out but I assure you you will learn a lot from him, he has the best prices, and he sales other brands as well
Hey bro nice video i have a request and i know you are busy person but plz plz plz just comment here do not do video if u have time limitations.plz tell me is it ok if i buy himoto raider aka combat truck 1/8 scale 100amp hobywing esc instead of zd racing 1/8 scale buggy .pirates 2 or dhk zombie 1/8 scale.localy avalable is himoto all others i have to export from aliexpress or some other site.plzzz do comment.i am waiting.thanks.
Guys in ZDRacing Facebook group figured out these metal 1/8 variants might be rebranded OFNA Hyper/Hobao frames. Figured you might wanna look into that and if so, share the knowledge.
@@RCTanksTrucks247 I believe Vas from Aussie RC playground has an OFNA/HoBao Truggy and also apparently the 9116 roller. I just saw his 9116 video so asked him to do a comparison between the frames. Hopefully he does and there is possible parts interchange between brands.
@@RCTanksTrucks247 , Ever find anything out on those lower arms? From what it looks like on the web all of these are very similar (wish I had them in front of me to actually compare...) Cars to compare for some possible parts interchange: -OFNA/HoBao "hyper" (multiple versions.) -ZD Racing (virtually any 1/8 scale "V3.") -Duratrax 835e/FS Racing e9.5
@@newtonfoster7581 yea, i know Man, i ask because in the gearbest say if you use a 6s power you can go up to 112+ kph, they dont say nothing about Change motor or esc 😉👍
Yeah Steve check it out. I just got one and I'm quite pleased with it, but make sure you strip it down and check every single nut and bolt, just like any other Chinese car.
Nice cat but I am not a fan of who ever makes those ESC's. If it is a Ocday esc then ya. I just bought a Ocday 120 amp esc and it is total Garbage. Didn't work out of the box. 👎
They need to go back to the drawing board on the rear center chassis braces/stiffener it's just extra weight and pointless ..becuase it'll still PIVOT. i dont know what kind of engineering degree the engineer dude at ZD Racing has...but it's pointless.lol Id personally just use the same bracing as the front..so this way they dont have to make more different parts...Just drill a different hole for brace and plate.
OnEyE Monster you don't need a different hole for that brace. You can make a new one of to add support, or try adding one just like it along with the most important part is a Shock tower to shock tower brace, then your flex will be gone if done properly
@@newtonfoster7581 I'd personally run a Chanel ( tube) so it wont bend ( carbon fiber.On my TT the center brace is mounted to the shocker tower, itself..so it wont pivot.
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Hey, can you possibly send me a link to the battery and charger you use
enjoyed steve! do you prefer 4S or 3S on this car? does it even work on 3s without adjustments?
Nice review Steve, I like the changes they made on this V3 from the V2
Can’t wait to see ya at the park!!!
Thanks 🙏
Thanks
Looks good Stevo
Thanks man
I see room for bigger motor and esc cuz that’s what we do at Rc tanks and trucks 24/7
Yeah, sounds like a plan
You guys use to do speed runs on stock why don’t you go for a 100mph buggy challenge and test out 400amps esc with tp motor (cuz their popular but no review from you guys).
I have the pirates3 BX-8E it's basically the same car just different wheels controller and body shell. I broke my lower control arm when I ran into a parked car tire. I was running it on 4s
Is that battery tray a wee bit small? Gee it's got some get up and go...
This car could be the number one, if we can get aluminum parts for front and rear arms ! Or full plastic parts for thoses arms to be more Stronger for bash.
Great review. What batteries would you recommend, and links if possible?
Cheers man, any decent 4s lipo around 4500mah and above
Great buggy for the money👍 great unboxing👍😁
Definitely great value for money
Good rc ,ZD is may favorite car good video
Thanks
Look up OFNA 19032 hubs/steering knuckles on eBay for an upgrade to what's on the zd racing version.
What a amazing car my friend~!!😆😊😉👍
Gool RC programmer works on that ESC
What esc programme do you need to get pal
@@nickward5190 Ocday, Surpass hobby.. Race star or Gool RC..They run the same protocol
Ok pal cool I get one I got to wate for the car yet I payed for on express delivery service on banggood but I spoke to customer service team and there out of stock and there waiting for a restock as I'm 1446 in line for one there selling like hot cakes at the moment I got to wait to next month but I had a option of the other one the v2 or wait for v3 to come back in grrrr but both of them have the same esc and motor and same body but that one is more expensive than this one becus the other one has the 3s Lipo with it that one is in stock but I want this one lol and I don't no what to do becus the v3 is better then the other one
There's a guy in the zd racing Facebook group that makes replacement parts but I recently found out the these zd racing rc are rebranded ofna hyper 7s
If thats true that'd be great, from what I've seen, the plastics on these aren't the best. Wonder what the price difference is to make it worth getting these over the hobao.
I almost bought one for my kid for her birthday but I just couldn't do it with how the parts support looked and with how long it would take to get the parts.... So I dug a slash 4x4 out the closet and threw it together and gave it to her
Look fellas, you can use replacement parts from other R/C's, you may have to change the axles as well because of length being different and may have to change the spindles as well, etc for whatever may not work but since you are saying the plastics are fragile wouldn't be a bad idea to get like Team Associated RC8, or you could use ARRMA TYPHON parts but get RPM A-ARM'S or you can use the alloy ones from GPM
@@newtonfoster7581 you really think arrma ares would fit on one these
@@newtonfoster7581 doesnt that defeat the purpose? After everything you spend on this and the additional parts you're probably not too far off from a typhon or something else that you know is great quality and you're not trying to figure out what parts will/won't fit.
that looks so cool man
Thanks Robert
I just got this rc Jan 2021, partially due to watching this review. I have spent entire day getting this thing into running condition. All drive shafts were a "press" fit into the drive cups at he dog bones! The wheel driveshafts were the worst. Taking the car apart I had to Use a screwdriver to pry the cups a bit to get them out. My shafts are plated in a bronze/orange colour. I was able to remove the coating by filing and simply rotating the dog bones in the cups. Some of the coating was cut and a very thin sleeve slid off the pins. The black transmission shaft pins were not pressed symmetrically, again i had to correct that. Next are the diffs, the front one was so tight on the pinion/ring gear, I could count each tooth as it fell into another with in a detent fashiona, rear was also too tight. The sides of the differential housings (output coupling holes side) are not parallel, they are caved in (manufacturing/material defect). Due to this there is physical interference between the inner wall of the housing and the differential plastic hub (opposite ring gear). I had to file down the cup a little, use three 13x16 mm shims to get some clearance here as well as get the pinnion/ring gear to mash well. All screws into aluminium were just drenched in thread locker, had to use heat. Same thread locker was apply onto my front plastic C mount by carelessness eating away at the plastic and causing lots of play at the pivot ball. The motor mount is separate from the centre diff carrier, makes for a messy gear lash adjustment, and keeping the gears parallel is a pain. You-tubers are snapping the wheels at the hub to spokes area, I filled these thin spots with baking soda and super glue. Looks like ESC is not programable??? Yes comes with Dumborc radio, which is great. Body came smashed as the receiver was sitting loose on top of the car, two days and no response from Banggood, they closed my order and now it looks like it is mission impossible to get into contact with them. I only got this car ($350 usd delivered, no batt) because I live in Indonesia and Arrma products are x2 or more western prices. Yes it has lots of good looking components, the above issues however makes it a project and deffenetlyf not RTR, yes it ran out of the box but after purchase I did more digging and found vids showing all these issues. So $35 bucks of shims, a new body and a day of work I have a what should have came in the box. I am done with Chinese shit (have 5 now), the quality is not there. With this one, going up in price and seeing nice looking components I gave them one more and last try.
So, you won’t recommend to buy this car for a newbie as I am ?
@@aerodynvdp7920 Please don't! You will have nothing but issues and it will turn you off to the hobby. I am constantly working on it, replacing parts......Yes when it runs it is fast and fun, but don't do it. I would strongly recommend a 1/10 Arrma or Traxxas. The 1/8th scale and aluminium which looks sexy is heavy and does not "crash" ell at all. The initial extra cost will be rewarded with fun rc and not a constant project. Arrma Bigrock or the Senton, what I really wanted but can't get it here. Also from now a 6 months beginner, please be careful with following suggestions of the youtuberes, so much of it is just fluff and does not address real world durability and quality. Hope this helps.
@@pawelwolski1316 Thank you Pawel for your comment.
Finally, I'm thinking of getting a Tamiya kit in 1/10.
I'm interested in the construction and the brand's reputation is probably a guarantee of quality.
@@pawelwolski1316 I own a Big Rock! Badass! Thanks for the info. I will not be buying this thing.
hi friend u are using 4 s? all is stock of car?
OCDAY is the OEM on that brushless system
I put a ocday brushless system in my friends 2wd rustler and it's held up pretty good. Definitely great for the money.
Thanks, good to know
looks good. looking forward to seeing it fly 👍
Yeah soon bro, thanks for watching
Nice unboxing
Thank you
I added velcro straps to my v2, doesn't really make sense to upgrade right?
Nah not from what I can see so far, my V2 is still going strow
Your house & surrounding area is very nice...
Thank you
Nice car Steve👍
Cheers man.
Hi, some parts look like the same as the DHK Maximus! cheers
🤔 Not too sure
Yo yo Stevo! Who's better than you? =o) Writing From NY! Good stuff. I bought the Maximus based off of your reviews. Thank you. I would like to see your take on the Redcat Landslide. I think its neck and neck with the Maximus, each have their pros and cons. But for the money, it is a hell of a beast. If you have a moment, it would be nice to hear your thoughts. Peace brotha. =o)
Check out No Problem Computer and R/C, he's a big REDCAT DEALER, check out that title I provided above, he does a lot of videos on the actual flaws of most every R/C he sales and if you request something you may have an issue with that he sales or sold you he'll take care of you I assure you. Check out him on RUclips, FB, & you can go to his website. On the website he has combo deals for most every vehicle, on here he does videos on the way to make the rigs more durable, plus M2C Racing makes a very strong and durable 7075 hardened alloy chassis for the LANDSLIDE, and he installs it on one that has other upgrades and fixes he came up with to get it as close to bulletproof as possible, there's a video of it on here as well. Hope this helps you out but I assure you you will learn a lot from him, he has the best prices, and he sales other brands as well
Does it look like the hpi flux forza.
Yeah man
Can I use 6s on this if I change the esc to a 6s esc or will I need to change the motor and the esc .
The motor won't last long on 6s
Hey bro nice video i have a request and i know you are busy person but plz plz plz just comment here do not do video if u have time limitations.plz tell me is it ok if i buy himoto raider aka combat truck 1/8 scale 100amp hobywing esc instead of zd racing 1/8 scale buggy .pirates 2 or dhk zombie 1/8 scale.localy avalable is himoto all others i have to export from aliexpress or some other site.plzzz do comment.i am waiting.thanks.
Hey man, well I can't comment about the other car as I have never had one before so I don't know anything about it unfortunately.
Guys in ZDRacing Facebook group figured out these metal 1/8 variants might be rebranded OFNA Hyper/Hobao frames. Figured you might wanna look into that and if so, share the knowledge.
Thanks brother. I wonder if the lower A arms are the same?
@@RCTanksTrucks247 I believe Vas from Aussie RC playground has an OFNA/HoBao Truggy and also apparently the 9116 roller. I just saw his 9116 video so asked him to do a comparison between the frames. Hopefully he does and there is possible parts interchange between brands.
@@RCTanksTrucks247 , Ever find anything out on those lower arms?
From what it looks like on the web all of these are very similar (wish I had them in front of me to actually compare...)
Cars to compare for some possible parts interchange:
-OFNA/HoBao "hyper" (multiple versions.)
-ZD Racing (virtually any 1/8 scale "V3.")
-Duratrax 835e/FS Racing e9.5
@@MrJaxco is it the same as the hyper vs? if it is im going to buy that roller for sure
Can u review the truggy version v3
What size battery are you running?
4s 5000mah from memory
What type of 4s lipo batterys does this car take?
Around 4500mah capacity with a deans connector
hi friend if i put a battery 6s i have to program?
Nope, 4s max
Sweet review thanks
Can i buy replacement parts ?
What is the stock battery in a box? 3 o 4s?
This model comes 'not' ready to run, comes with everything except lipo battery and charger as standard
What about pirates 3 Bx-8e?
Great too
Looks super to me :)
Yeah I love the colours too
Enjoyed 👍🏻
Much appreciated bro
This Zd can use 6s power?
Nope, 4s Max
If you upgrade the electronics to a 6S set up, then you'll be able to run 6S
@@newtonfoster7581 yea, i know Man, i ask because in the gearbest say if you use a 6s power you can go up to 112+ kph, they dont say nothing about Change motor or esc 😉👍
Am i only hearing a sound like a pig being slaughtered? 🤣 During the run test 🤣🤣🤣
Lol
Bisa cod kah klo krim ke indonesia bea chukai gak
Spettacolare
Nice brother
Next to review zd 9021-V3 please
I will have a look
@@RCTanksTrucks247 please do, sir. Im subscribed and notified :)
Yeah Steve check it out. I just got one and I'm quite pleased with it, but make sure you strip it down and check every single nut and bolt, just like any other Chinese car.
@@garretgillespie3946 we dont expect it to be top quality but for a chinese car, it's good enough
How long i can use it with one charge
Depending on the size of the battery. 5000mah would get you easy 15min
@@RCTanksTrucks247 I get a bit under an hour on my 1/8 buggy on 6s with 5000mah, hard running of course.
Looks like an Arrma Notorious/Outcast rebrand .
The original one has been out for quite some time now. Body might look vaguely similar
How?
Looks like an ARRMA typhon knockoff judging by the arms, chassis and a few other things
10 year old buggies look the same, please.
Looks like a thunder tiger, hot bodies etc....
I actually wonder how many have same key dimensions, for mixing up parts.
Arrma didn't invent 1/8 buggies you sacrificial goat.
Nice cat but I am not a fan of who ever makes those ESC's. If it is a Ocday esc then ya.
I just bought a Ocday 120 amp esc and it is total Garbage. Didn't work out of the box. 👎
DHK optimus reskin
Holy sh*t are you stupid? This car has completely differently located electronics.
They need to go back to the drawing board on the rear center chassis braces/stiffener
it's just extra weight and pointless ..becuase it'll still PIVOT. i dont know what kind
of engineering degree the engineer dude at ZD Racing has...but it's pointless.lol
Id personally just use the same bracing as the front..so this way they dont have to make
more different parts...Just drill a different hole for brace and plate.
OnEyE Monster you don't need a different hole for that brace. You can make a new one of to add support, or try adding one just like it along with the most important part is a Shock tower to shock tower brace, then your flex will be gone if done properly
@@newtonfoster7581 I'd personally run a Chanel ( tube) so it wont bend ( carbon fiber.On my TT the center brace is mounted to the shocker tower, itself..so it wont pivot.
furst