Thank you for these awesome two videos. My father passed away a year ago and I have his Minolta SRT 101 that he took all of our family pictures of when we were growing up. My father kept this camera in pristine condition. These videos have been very helpful to me learning more about this camera. I look forward to shooting with my father’s camera. Thanks for the assistance.
Thank you and that's a great inheritance to have. I have my late father's Mamiya and it's nice to shoot photos with a camera that photographed me as a kid.
I bought an SRT 101 in 1972 from the camera shop in J.C. Penney's for $239.08 and it was the silver finish. New old stock maybe? But being young and impulsive, I sold it for some dumb reason. About a month ago, I found this camera on ebay and bought it, and it's as though my camera and me never parted!! So wonderful to have it home again!! Your video's are awesome, and yes, you got a thumbs up and a new subscriber! Mike in Oregon
Great videos!! I haven’t taken a 35mm pic since I took photography in high school back in 1988. As a novice photographer, your video was extremely informative. My mother in law cleaned out her garage this weekend and found this camera tucked away in a drawer. She was gonna throw it away, but instead she gave it to me for helping her. So excited to get back into real photography other than pictures on my cell phone. Thank you
I purchased a Minolta 101 in 1974 as my first descent piece of photography equipment. I never had any trouble with it. In many respects I liked it better than the Canon DSLR I'm using now. I'd like to find another one in really good shape and start shooting film again. Thanks for the exceptional presentation.
Thank you! I have one of these that I had overhauled by the guys at the Fix Old Cameras channel. It works really well and meters correctly with modern batteries now. So even if you get one that need some work, a quick overhaul can give you a better-than-new camera in terms of battery compatibility.
Duracell has great zinc air batteries at 1.4 volts, with constant voltage level, over long period of times. I think it is the best solution today www.duracell.com/en-us/product/hearing-aid-batteries-with-easytab-675
Great pair of videos! .So beautifully paced and presented. I bought an SRT 101 in May 1979, It is now back in use and is a dream. So strong. so functional and beautifully made. It's taken thousands of expsures and never failed, not like the current electronic digital lensed that seem to pack up,, leaving me with a totally useless camera body. :-(
This might be a silly question, but does the camera need a battery, because the exposure meter moves up and down when I make adjustments. The battery meter is straight up to the top in the viewfinder. I just received this camera as a gift and it has a PX625A battery in it. Maybe it's dead? Do I need to do the compensation adjustments if I have a 1.35V WeinCell battery?
@@andrewpeterforbes If the light meter needle (the one without a circle) doesn't move at all after you turn on the battery (which means it stays on the top in viewfinder), then the battery is dead. This camera still functions well even there is no battery, and if you don't need the light meter from the camera, it is better that you keep the battery chamber empty. And I removed the battery, the light meter needle stays on the top when I turn to BC, which shows that BC doesn't work when the battery is dead. Hope you find these info useful ;)
Oh man, I was just given my late father's old SRT 303 that my mom found while cleaning out some old stuff and it's thankfully in good quality from being stored in a hard case over the years. These video manuals really helped me get up to speed and excited about trying it out. Just praying I can find a place that still sells old camera film.
In 1972 I went to London Camera Exchange looking for something like a Voigtlander half frame or similar, I walked out with a SRT 101 with the 58mm f1.4 lens. I've used this ever since. I have bought Minolta autofocus and Sony digital to use the AF lenses but the SRT 101 has been my film camera. I have recently had a GAS attack and now have a 303b, XD, XE, and an X570. The SRT 101 still gets used for macro and for attaching to my telescope because of the MLU as you said why discontinue it? I use hearing aid batteries in the SRTs they are 1.4v and work fine although they only last for about 6 months
Thanks for these videos. I use my SRT101 still. Its a great camera. Just to say when it comes to batteries I use Zinc Air hearing aid batteries 1.45 volts without the adapted and the meter seems spot on. These batteries do not last as long, but are very cheap and ready available.
Interesting information about dating the camera. From your information, mine would be either '68 or '69... fine knurls, flathead screws, unequal distance, visible screws. Another difference between mine and those in your video is the shutter speed dial. Not only is mine fine knurled, it's also all black, not chrome.
beginning to journey back into 35mm photography, got my srt101 because others vintage cam are bit overpriced. my 101 probably made in 66-67 , serial number starts with 1. Thanks!
Thanks for doing such a thorough and professional presentation on your camera reviews. They are always well done. The Minolta SRT 101 was my first 'real' camera and I never had a problem with it. I have since bought another. Have you considered a video on a Mamyia 645 (not the Pro) and/or Mamyia C330? Keep up the good work!
Thank you! I would love to do the 645 or C330. I've bid on both models a number of times and always lost them in the last few seconds. Someday, though, I'll get my hands on those.
I have a question regarding the battery…I can’t find a mercury (mr9)battery, so what can I use instead? You mentioned that there were 2 options but I can’t catch that part on the replay.😅
The best option is a simple brass adapter (these are available on eBay -- LR44 to 650 adapter) and a 675 battery. The 675 battery is close enough to the proper voltage to work well. They're available at any pharmacy or grocery store because they're used in hearing aids, so they're often fresh, too. The 357/A76/S76,LR44 etc. batteries have too much voltage and will not give you proper meter readings. So use the 675. They're worth the added few bucks because that's cheaper than ruining a bunch of film with improper meter readings.
Hi David! I just found your video after having my 101 for two months now (I hope I didn't move the shutter or aperture too fast like you warned). I was wondering. Does the Li560 need to be adapted too? Or does it fit on its own
Your best bet for batteries on a cost and image results basis is to get some basic brass adapters and some 675 hearing aid batteries. Those have voltage that's close enough to the old batteries to work correctly. The 675 batteries are the same size as 375.
David i inow this video has been up a long time but I need to know something... The self-timer lever on my Minolta is depressed and pressing the small button above it does not release it. Does the camera need a good battery in order for the lever to release and turn back upward? Also, do these cameras shoot only black & white? Based on all youve said i to have a '69 year model SRT101 and id really like to get a new battery and begin using it. I have a 55mm lens and also a 35-155mm telephoto lens with the case that are pristine.
@@ArcAngel572nc the self-timer may just be jammed. Check with the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows way more about these cameras' issues and quirks than I do.
I love my 1969 black srt 101, do the lens locking mechanisms break on these often? mine is quite finicky, having to push the lens de mount buttom down while a lens is on the body for it to lock into place.
The lens locks in these are really robust. I've never heard of one locking. It's just a simple, but strong, metal lever as I understand it. The only weakness is the silk cording that connects the shutter and aperture to the meter. I'd say about 15% of the SRT 101 bodies I see have that issue. Either the cords slip off the pulleys from being jerked too fast or they break with use and wear.
They do work correctly but once you start using them they don't have a long life -- maybe three months. That and the cost lead me not to recommend them.
Could you point me to a link for batteries that will work for this camera, or a way to make an L1560f work with the light meter? Very cool video BTW! thanks for doing this.
Not directly, but I can recommend type 675 hearing aid batteries (available at any grocery store or pharmacy) and a simple brass LR44 to 625 adapter on eBay. The 675 battery voltage is close enough to the old mercury cell voltage that the 675 battery will provide accurate metering without the voltage-adapting adapters needed for 375/LR44/A76, etc, batteries.
Thank you very much for the nice manuals and detailed information. I have a question. there is some noise on my 101 when i change the shutter speed to the slower vaules. is this normal or a hint to some mechanical defect? i cannot here a sound when you dial on your shutter wheel. thank you for your help.
I recently bought this camera and everything seems to work, it even loads the film an all, but the film rewind nob doesn't seem to move when I cock the advance lever. I have not developed a roll from this camera yet and I'm afraid it might be broken.
First step is to try rewinding it a turn or two. If the film was not taken up by the film take-up spool you don't want to rewind it all the way into the cassette. If it was taken up by the take-up spool, that will remove the slack. Alternatively, if you don't want to risk that, do to a pitch black room and open the camera back. Then you can check and see if the film is being advanced. Just take a shot, advance, and you can feel the sprocket holes under your fingers. The downside is that will reset your fame counter, but it won't affect the film any if you do that in pitch black.
Shooting my srt 101 outside with 400 film makes my light meter go all the way down, to the point where I can not center the light meter and the circle even tho I do adjustments with shutter speed and depth of field. Why is this happening and how can I still take good photo's outside on a sunny day?
Hmm. That's curious. If you're outside in full sun facing away from the sun with 400 ISO film and set your aperture to f/16 then the shutter speed should be 1/500th. Just out of curiosity, are you using a standard PX625 battery or are you using a 675 battery in a brass adapter? If you're using the standard battery then the voltage in that is incorrect and will cause the camera to underexpose images by a lot unless the camera's electronics were modified (most have not been.)
I was just loaned this camera and it looks like the On, Off, Bc on the bottom is missing the piece with the orange line on it. Is there any way for me to replace this piece in order for me to use the camera? I also can't seem to lift the left knob in order to open the back of the camera
David, I have this same camera. Can you tell me what I should set it to if I’m shooting a portrait in a shaded area? And what do I set it to for a portrait of someone at sunset?
Your specific settings will depend on your film and light. So what I can do is give you a guide on how to ascertain your settings. for portraits: Place the camera close (say within six or eight inches) of your subject and point it at an area of their face that is the tone you would like to have be the mid-tone. So if you point at a shadowed part of their face, for instance, anything in light will be overexposed. Then look at your meter reading and dial in your settings. Then take the photo with those settings. For sunsets, just meter normally as you would and bracket the shot with a sequence of three or more images. What I mean by that is if your sunset photo says 1/125th at f/8 then try it also at 1/250th and 1/60th. Or at f/5.6 and f/11. That will give you three shots that will, hopefully, return one with the colors and tones that you want.
@@DavidHancock hey, thank you so much! I’ll be using portra 400. I’ll do these steps. Thank you! Do you have a video for beginners that teaches all these steps?
Does the SRT101 need a different cable release than later Minoltas like the XD-7 or X700 ? I have a nice cable release working fine on both XD-7 and X700, but doing nothing on the SRT101. Is this normal or is something broken in my (pre 1970) SRT101 ?
The cable release should be the same. The only difference I can think of is that the 101 may have a slightly deeper release catch, where the cable release pushes, inside the camera. That's just a guess. I've a few times run into cameras that need cable releases with really long probiscuses.
I would like to ask if the picture counter pointer pointed to 1 is it means that the first picture has already been taken? or it means going to take the first picture?
Use some lens cleaning tissues and lens cleaner, dampen the tissues, and then wipe the mirror with them. You can then use a dry tissue to clean up the remaining fluid from the mirror. Don't press on the mirror and be gentle.
Those shutter speeds should be noticably different just one their own. A one second shutter speed should last a full second. I'd send an email to Vermont Camera Works, assuming you're in the US, and see if they can repair it.
@@DavidHancock thanks for the fast reply. I’m not, but I’ve asked around, and repair in norway is goona cost 3x-4x what the camera itself cost, so i might just buy another camera
When I pull the exposure lever all the way it goes completely pitch black through the viewfinder, is there something I am doing that is causing this? If I don't pull it all the way 50% of the time it allows me to take a proper exposure. Thanks in advance.
The exposure lever would stop-down the lens (close the aperture), which would make the viewfinder go dark. So that's normal. If you set the lens to f/16 and only pull the exposure lever 50%, then it will only close the aperture down to about f/5.6 or f/8. That will cause the film to be pretty heavily overexposed. One thing you can do to see this in action is look at the front of the lens and watch the aperture as you depress the exposure lever. That should illustrate what's going on and the difference between half-way and complete.
The shutter button will not depress and the film advance lever only moves about a quarter of the way. Also, the timer does not come back all the way to vertical. I can manually turn the film sprocket but can't figure out how to free up the shutter.
Not in this camera. The shutter is completely mechanical and the battery only operates the light meter. What all have you tried in testing the shutter?
@@DavidHancock the latch to move to the right for the camera to take a picture. It doesnt move to the right it gets stuck unless i press the shutter button and itll move after i crank it. It doesn't snap.
I quite do not understand how to set settings for picture. If my film is 100 ISO I would set ISO on my camera 100 and never change that till the end of the film roll? And if ive got lenses MD Rokkor 45/2 it means that i set my f to 2 and dont change that too? Ive got lightmeter as an app on phone but i still can't get it and dont understand it very well. im completely new in this could you help me please?
So you're correct on the film ISO. Whatever you choose to use for the ISO setting, leave that for the whole role. For your aperture, you can change that as much as you like. The same with your shutter speed. So let's say that your light meter app tells you that at 100 ISO you'd need to use f/5.6 and 1/125th for your aperture and shutter speed. You could do that. You could also use 1/250th and f/4 or 1/60th and f/8. Basically, any time you change the shutter speed or aperture one setting (stop, in photography terms) the other needs to move one stop the other directions So let's take a look at your setups stops. Camera: 1S, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1,000 Lens: f/2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22 (maybe? not all 45mm f/2 lenses have f/22) You can see there the relationship between going from 1/125th at f/5.6 to 1/60th at f/8. So as practice, using 1/125th at f/5.6 as your baseline meter reading, what aperture would you need to use to take a picture at 1/8th of a second? As another example, if you know you need to use a shutter speed of 1/30th and an aperture of f/16, what aperture would you use to take a photo at 1/1,000th of a second? Using a light meter app is slightly trickier than using the in-camera meter only because the interface is somewhat more confusing. Not knowing which app you have, a good app would let you tell it the aperture OR shutter speed you'd like to use and then give you the correct reading for the other.
Thanks but how do i know what aperture or what shutter speed? I know that lightmeter would tell me the other but how do i know the first basic thing...
Without a light meter, you can use the Sunny 16 rule. What that means is that you would set your shutter speed to your film speed (or the nearest number) and the aperture to f/16 for full sun. So let's say you're out on a walk in full sun with 400 ISO film. You'd set your aperture to f/16 and shutter to 1/500th. Then you could also use 1/1,000th and f/11. If you had 100 ISO film, it would be f/16 and 1/125th in full sun. Then you could shoot 1/250 at f/11, 1/500 at f/8, and 1/1,000 at f/5.6. In shade use f/8 instead of f/16. At dusk, f/8 or f/5.6. Indoors, f/2.8 or f/4. Those always assume that your shutter speed matches or is the closest setting to your film speed.
Thanks so much! Can i ask one more thing? You seem so professional. When im rewinding my film and all is ready for the shot and i wanna push that button and it just doesnt work idk why. Im still pushing it and it doesnt work then i try rewind it again until it allows me to do and i try to push that and after few pushes it works but you never know when.. whats wrong with that i dont know ..
Thank you! So it sounds like the shutter button is not always triggering the shutter correct? That sounds like part of the shutter mechanism is either damaged or gummy with thick lubricants. Different parts of the camera's mechanism will have lubricating oil. With time, exposure to heat and cold, and dust getting into the camera, those lubricants can become thick and gummy. When that happens, parts of the camera stop working reliably. My guess is that part of the internal mechanism is sticking. The shutters on most cameras connect to a long, vertical rod that triggers gears on the bottom of the camera. Unfortunately, the repair on that probably requires some amount of camera disassembly, and probably needs a camera repairman to look at it. The Fix Old Cameras channel might be able to confirm if that's the case and let you know if that's a repair that easy to do or not.
Hi David, thank you for the great run through on the 101. This was my first camera which I still have after 40 years. I also inherited my fathers Canon FT QL and I’m now trying to decide which one to keep in case I need a film camera in the future. Would you say the Minolta is the better of the 2? It does have a bigger film range and I guess a better range of available glass. What are your thoughts as I need to thin out the camera collection from the past? Thanks for your thoughts and your great videos.
Thank you! Well, both have weaknesses. Both use the older and obsolete batteries and need either a modification to the electronics (very easy on both cameras) or a voltage-adapting A76 adapter in order for them to meter correctly. The SRT has silk cords that can jump their rails if settings are adjusted too quickly, but at you point out it has a better array of glass. With older cameras, it's generally a good idea to be gentle and not turn the dials as quickly as possible to begin with, so the ccords issue shouldn't be a problem. I like the SRT series more than the FT series. I find the FT bodies a bit clunky and heavy. I like the meter in the SRTs a lot and I think they're very well thought out.
I bought a Minolta SRT 101 with no lock-up mirror. Anyway, the problem is when i look on viewfinder, i didn't see anything, because the mirror are up. I must to arm the camera, now the mirror go down and i have a vision! It's my camera non functional, or is a trick to down the mirror ?
That's not uncommon with these and it's age-related wear. it could be a gear is mis-aligned or there's some thick grease in the mechanism. It's fixable but requires some shutter mechanism disassembly and that's best done by a professional.
i shoot with this camera and got my films developed. but some of the pictures are out of focus :( any tips how to make sure pictures are focus through the viewfinder?
How out of focus? Did you, say, focus on someone's ear instead of their eye or did you focus on a streetlight three blocks away when you meant to focus on a person right in front of you? There are different solutions for each.
I'm not 100% sure that zone focusing will help. There are two possibilities: 1- The subjects moved (strong possibility if they were moving quickly) 2- The lens wasn't focused correctly (this happens.) For #1, the only solution is practice and more tries. For #2, have you used this camera and lens extensively or is it new to you?
Hi I recently bought a Minolta SRT 101 but I was hoping to know from what year it is because the back where the DIS is not a circle, it is a rectangle type of placement. Loved your video!
Why would my advance lever not work, it was then it stopped, it just got the camera from my father in law, it's in great condition, I was operating it to see it's function, then it just stopped, I saw a video that mentioned it could be a battery issue ?
For this camera, it would not be the battery. That only operates the meter. Try rewinding the film. There are two possible causes -- film that was left in there and a mechanical issue. If it was film you can tell because the film rewind knob will not spin unless you rewind the film and depress the film release button on the bottom at the same time. If there is film in the camera rewind it all the way and then open the back and get it developed. It could be old family photos. If there is no film in the camera then something in the advance mechanism likely jammed and a professional repair will be needed.
Sometimes I don’t know how my photos are out of focus even though I always try to get a sharp focus. Or maybe I mistaked the focusing way, can you help me?
Hmm. There are a lot of possible reasons. Here are a few questions that can help me: 1- Are you shooting wide-open? 2- What subjects are you shooting? 3- Are you shooting hand-held?
I've been using my camera for a few days now and today I realized the battery switch was set to off! Does his mean the pictures I took weren't actually taken?
The camera's mechanical comments operate without a battery. So there will be photos. If they were properly metered is a different question. Some may turn out, others not.
These videos are amazing, I have a question. I recently got the SRT101 in very good condition, but when I take a picture, the mirror stays up until I advance the film for the next shot. Is that normal? The camera isn't in bulb.
That's a mechanical issue. It's repairable but needs some disassembly and, in general, a professional service. Odds are that it has other latent issues and an overhaul would be helpful.
These use the 1.35V mercury batteries that are no longer made. So you'd need to either use a 1.5V battery and adjust the ISO dial for a proper reading, buy a voltage-adapting A76 battery adapter, or modify the circuitry (pretty easy, Fix Old Cameras has a video showing how to do this on a different model of camera, but the process would be the same with this just under the base plate.)
David Hancock hi sorry to bother but when you say A76 battery adapter? I’m. It sure what you mean? When I goggle A76 battery I get 357 batteries that comes in a pack of 3? Will this do the trick?
There are a lot of independent labs still developing film, yes. If you're in the U.S. I've used Old School Photo Lab and The Darkroom. Both are excellent. Film can be had lots of place. Again, if you're in the U.S., Freestyle Photo, Adorama, B&H, and other shops sell film.
The cap is either cross-threaded, over-threaded, or the battery in it exploded. I have a video that shows how to remove a stuck battery cap. It takes a bit of work. fortunately, the battery only runs the light meter in this camera and you can still take photos without a battery.
I bought it at a re-sale shop and didn't realize it was not working. Not a camera guy, so had my camera buddies check it out and they couldn't figure out what to do either.
The Battery situation sucks... I have 3 cameras with that problem. I have an external light meter, and I can even make good photos without a light meter because of experience. But it would be nice not having to worry about anything and just using the internal light meter like you are supposed to.
I agree. It's a challenge. You can use a modern battery and compensate for the voltage difference with your ISO dial. Simply get your readings off a good light meter, dial them in to your shutter speed and aperture dials, and then adjust the ASA ring until you have a proper meter reading in the viewfinder. You may need to do that every few months as the battery voltage changes, but that will work.
@@DavidHancock Good tip, thank you! I just got this Minolta SRT101 out of a bag where it sat unused for around 13 years, it belongs to my uncle switched to digital years ago. Now I got 5 Varta mercury batteries from a small german electronics shop in 2016, still sealed. But those must be at least 20 years old by now, as mercury batteries became illegal in Germany somewhere in the late 1990´s. So I doubt they will still have charge, but I will try them out, maybe I´m lucky, although my hopes are not high. If it doesn´t work, I´ll use your method. So thanks again, and greetings from Germany!
@@DavidHancock Just put in one of those old PX 625 batteries I mentioned. To my surprise, it still has full charge tested with the battery check of the camera, although it was already used. I compared the light meter reading to the one with the alkaline version of the battery that was in the camera when I got it. The difference is marginal, but exists. With the used alkaline battery, the metering line on my subject is fully centered in the circle. With the mercury version, it stops slightly high of the exact midpoint, but still within the circle. I guess that´s becaus of the current charging level of the alkaline and this will probably vary if the battery would be new. Glad those old mercuries still work, sometimes one is lucky!
Thanks for the age tips. You helped me place min in to 1969. A pin of the flash shoe, Philips head screws that are NOT evenly spaced and a course shutter speed dial. It was working well quite a few years ago and is going in for clean and lub so I can get back in to using it again. Meter still works along with the rest. Sadly the top corner of the view find are a nasty dent - but that has never affected the performance. Yup you can beat muggers to death with one of these, then use it photograph the corpse ! mmmmwwwhhahahahaha. Try doing that with a modern digital :-}}}}
Depends on the lens it includes, but that's not a bad price. If possible, make sure that it has good light seals or that the seller is able to replace them. If no to both, I have a video showing how to replace light seals with cotton yarn light seals.
Dumb question i had the asa to 1000 then inside to 400 it has to be on 60 - red then 400 ? Im shooting portra 400 kodak ? Im new to film photography camera 📷
You should keep the ASA at the film's speed, sounds like 400 in this case, and not change it mid-roll. Changing ISO mid-roll will screw up some of your shots.
Thank you for these awesome two videos. My father passed away a year ago and I have his Minolta SRT 101 that he took all of our family pictures of when we were growing up. My father kept this camera in pristine condition. These videos have been very helpful to me learning more about this camera. I look forward to shooting with my father’s camera. Thanks for the assistance.
Thank you and that's a great inheritance to have. I have my late father's Mamiya and it's nice to shoot photos with a camera that photographed me as a kid.
Hi w the adapter what battery was it that you inserted? Does the brass like adapter correct voltage? Thanks for another useful video.
I bought an SRT 101 in 1972 from the camera shop in J.C. Penney's for $239.08 and it was the silver finish. New old stock maybe? But being young and impulsive, I sold it for some dumb reason. About a month ago, I found this camera on ebay and bought it, and it's as though my camera and me never parted!! So wonderful to have it home again!! Your video's are awesome, and yes, you got a thumbs up and a new subscriber!
Mike in Oregon
Thank you, Mike!
Great videos!! I haven’t taken a 35mm pic since I took photography in high school back in 1988. As a novice photographer, your video was extremely informative. My mother in law cleaned out her garage this weekend and found this camera tucked away in a drawer. She was gonna throw it away, but instead she gave it to me for helping her. So excited to get back into real photography other than pictures on my cell phone. Thank you
Thank you!
I purchased a Minolta 101 in 1974 as my first descent piece of photography equipment. I never had any trouble with it. In many respects I liked it better than the Canon DSLR I'm using now. I'd like to find another one in really good shape and start shooting film again. Thanks for the exceptional presentation.
Thank you!
I have one of these that I had overhauled by the guys at the Fix Old Cameras channel. It works really well and meters correctly with modern batteries now. So even if you get one that need some work, a quick overhaul can give you a better-than-new camera in terms of battery compatibility.
Duracell has great zinc air batteries at 1.4 volts, with constant voltage level, over long period of times. I think it is the best solution today www.duracell.com/en-us/product/hearing-aid-batteries-with-easytab-675
Great pair of videos! .So beautifully paced and presented. I bought an SRT 101 in May 1979, It is now back in use and is a dream. So strong. so functional and beautifully made. It's taken thousands of expsures and never failed, not like the current electronic digital lensed that seem to pack up,, leaving me with a totally useless camera body. :-(
Thank you! Yeah, the electronic cameras definitely fail more quickly than the old manual ones.
I have bought my srt101 for 3 years and have no idea what does the B.C. mark mean until I see your video! Thanks a lot!
Thank you!
Loved these videos. You are very good at explaining. Just ordered a mint SRT 101 on Ebay, can't wait to try it out!
Thank you! I think you'll love it. Make sure that you have the voltage-adapting battery adapter or a WeinCell battery.
David Hancock Thanks for the heads-up, I'm going to order a few of those 1.35V Wein Cell batteries.
This might be a silly question, but does the camera need a battery, because the exposure meter moves up and down when I make adjustments. The battery meter is straight up to the top in the viewfinder. I just received this camera as a gift and it has a PX625A battery in it. Maybe it's dead? Do I need to do the compensation adjustments if I have a 1.35V WeinCell battery?
I'm kind of wondering if the battery meter is broke/stuck. I was assuming Battery Check would show the needle all the way down if the battery is dead.
@@andrewpeterforbes If the light meter needle (the one without a circle) doesn't move at all after you turn on the battery (which means it stays on the top in viewfinder), then the battery is dead.
This camera still functions well even there is no battery, and if you don't need the light meter from the camera, it is better that you keep the battery chamber empty.
And I removed the battery, the light meter needle stays on the top when I turn to BC, which shows that BC doesn't work when the battery is dead.
Hope you find these info useful ;)
Oh man, I was just given my late father's old SRT 303 that my mom found while cleaning out some old stuff and it's thankfully in good quality from being stored in a hard case over the years. These video manuals really helped me get up to speed and excited about trying it out. Just praying I can find a place that still sells old camera film.
Thank you! Lots of places do. In the U.S, Freestyle Photo, B&H, Mike's Camera, and Adorama are good choices. Amazon also sells it.
@@DavidHancock I live across the pond but managed to find some retailers after a bit of research. Thanks for the great content!
In 1972 I went to London Camera Exchange looking for something like a Voigtlander half frame or similar, I walked out with a SRT 101 with the 58mm f1.4 lens. I've used this ever since. I have bought Minolta autofocus and Sony digital to use the AF lenses but the SRT 101 has been my film camera. I have recently had a GAS attack and now have a 303b, XD, XE, and an X570. The SRT 101 still gets used for macro and for attaching to my telescope because of the MLU as you said why discontinue it? I use hearing aid batteries in the SRTs they are 1.4v and work fine although they only last for about 6 months
Thanks for these videos. I use my SRT101 still. Its a great camera. Just to say when it comes to batteries I use Zinc Air hearing aid batteries 1.45 volts without the adapted and the meter seems spot on. These batteries do not last as long, but are very cheap and ready available.
Thank you and those work well for batteries. Also 675 hearing aid batteries with a simple brass adapter works.
I've learned something today about how to do double exposure with my Minolta. Thank you so much . ttfn
Thank you!
Whenever I get an old minolta slr I check to see if you have a video and they always are helpful
Thank you, Michael!
thank you for sharing your knowledge with your viewers.
Thank you!
Thanks david. Very comprehensive. I was given on of these today and also a rolliflex tlr wide. So I am accessing a few tutorials.
Thank you!
Interesting information about dating the camera. From your information, mine would be either '68 or '69... fine knurls, flathead screws, unequal distance, visible screws. Another difference between mine and those in your video is the shutter speed dial. Not only is mine fine knurled, it's also all black, not chrome.
Oh interesting! I wonder if the dial color is another indication of age or if it was replaced at some point.
Thanks. Not what I was hoping for, but needed to know. It's a 1968 model. Looks like it's a parts camera.
Thanks for these review videos! I have a question please can you shoot without using a battery (what’s the utility of the battery)
Thank you and yes. The battery only operates the meter.
beginning to journey back into 35mm photography, got my srt101 because others vintage cam are bit overpriced. my 101 probably made in 66-67 , serial number starts with 1. Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks for doing such a thorough and professional presentation on your camera reviews. They are always well done. The Minolta SRT 101 was my first 'real' camera and I never had a problem with it. I have since bought another. Have you considered a video on a Mamyia 645 (not the Pro) and/or Mamyia C330? Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
I would love to do the 645 or C330. I've bid on both models a number of times and always lost them in the last few seconds. Someday, though, I'll get my hands on those.
I have a question regarding the battery…I can’t find a mercury (mr9)battery, so what can I use instead? You mentioned that there were 2 options but I can’t catch that part on the replay.😅
The best option is a simple brass adapter (these are available on eBay -- LR44 to 650 adapter) and a 675 battery. The 675 battery is close enough to the proper voltage to work well. They're available at any pharmacy or grocery store because they're used in hearing aids, so they're often fresh, too. The 357/A76/S76,LR44 etc. batteries have too much voltage and will not give you proper meter readings. So use the 675. They're worth the added few bucks because that's cheaper than ruining a bunch of film with improper meter readings.
Thank you so much 😊 You’re a fountain of knowledge ✨
Hi David! I just found your video after having my 101 for two months now (I hope I didn't move the shutter or aperture too fast like you warned). I was wondering. Does the Li560 need to be adapted too? Or does it fit on its own
Your best bet for batteries on a cost and image results basis is to get some basic brass adapters and some 675 hearing aid batteries. Those have voltage that's close enough to the old batteries to work correctly. The 675 batteries are the same size as 375.
I down loaded the instruction book (thank you). There is now a 1.35 volt battery available w/o the mercury. Thanks for the help.
What's the battery name/code? Thanks!
David i inow this video has been up a long time but I need to know something... The self-timer lever on my Minolta is depressed and pressing the small button above it does not release it. Does the camera need a good battery in order for the lever to release and turn back upward? Also, do these cameras shoot only black & white? Based on all youve said i to have a '69 year model SRT101 and id really like to get a new battery and begin using it. I have a 55mm lens and also a 35-155mm telephoto lens with the case that are pristine.
Hmm. Battery won't affect the self-timer. The battery is only for the light meter. And it will shoot color or black and white film.
@@DavidHancock any suggestions on how to get it to release? I've tried what I believe to be everything.
@@ArcAngel572nc the self-timer may just be jammed. Check with the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows way more about these cameras' issues and quirks than I do.
@@DavidHancock Thanks 👍
I love my 1969 black srt 101, do the lens locking mechanisms break on these often? mine is quite finicky, having to push the lens de mount buttom down while a lens is on the body for it to lock into place.
The lens locks in these are really robust. I've never heard of one locking. It's just a simple, but strong, metal lever as I understand it. The only weakness is the silk cording that connects the shutter and aperture to the meter. I'd say about 15% of the SRT 101 bodies I see have that issue. Either the cords slip off the pulleys from being jerked too fast or they break with use and wear.
What about the Wein Cell PX625? They are 1.35V, and not 1.5V. So they should work just as good as the original right?
They do work correctly but once you start using them they don't have a long life -- maybe three months. That and the cost lead me not to recommend them.
Could you point me to a link for batteries that will work for this camera, or a way to make an L1560f work with the light meter? Very cool video BTW! thanks for doing this.
Not directly, but I can recommend type 675 hearing aid batteries (available at any grocery store or pharmacy) and a simple brass LR44 to 625 adapter on eBay. The 675 battery voltage is close enough to the old mercury cell voltage that the 675 battery will provide accurate metering without the voltage-adapting adapters needed for 375/LR44/A76, etc, batteries.
Thank you very much for the nice manuals and detailed information. I have a question. there is some noise on my 101 when i change the shutter speed to the slower vaules. is this normal or a hint to some mechanical defect? i cannot here a sound when you dial on your shutter wheel. thank you for your help.
Thank you! What's the noise sound like? Kind if like a tiny tambourine? If so, every 101 I've held sounds like that and it's normal.
@@DavidHancock
Thanks for the answer
I recently bought this camera and everything seems to work, it even loads the film an all, but the film rewind nob doesn't seem to move when I cock the advance lever. I have not developed a roll from this camera yet and I'm afraid it might be broken.
First step is to try rewinding it a turn or two. If the film was not taken up by the film take-up spool you don't want to rewind it all the way into the cassette. If it was taken up by the take-up spool, that will remove the slack. Alternatively, if you don't want to risk that, do to a pitch black room and open the camera back. Then you can check and see if the film is being advanced. Just take a shot, advance, and you can feel the sprocket holes under your fingers. The downside is that will reset your fame counter, but it won't affect the film any if you do that in pitch black.
You're a legend!
Thank you!
Very helpful video, thank you very much.
Thank you!
Shooting my srt 101 outside with 400 film makes my light meter go all the way down, to the point where I can not center the light meter and the circle even tho I do adjustments with shutter speed and depth of field. Why is this happening and how can I still take good photo's outside on a sunny day?
Hmm. That's curious. If you're outside in full sun facing away from the sun with 400 ISO film and set your aperture to f/16 then the shutter speed should be 1/500th.
Just out of curiosity, are you using a standard PX625 battery or are you using a 675 battery in a brass adapter? If you're using the standard battery then the voltage in that is incorrect and will cause the camera to underexpose images by a lot unless the camera's electronics were modified (most have not been.)
I was just loaned this camera and it looks like the On, Off, Bc on the bottom is missing the piece with the orange line on it. Is there any way for me to replace this piece in order for me to use the camera? I also can't seem to lift the left knob in order to open the back of the camera
There might be. The Fix Old Cameras channel will know how to do that.
David, I have this same camera. Can you tell me what I should set it to if I’m shooting a portrait in a shaded area?
And what do I set it to for a portrait of someone at sunset?
Your specific settings will depend on your film and light. So what I can do is give you a guide on how to ascertain your settings.
for portraits: Place the camera close (say within six or eight inches) of your subject and point it at an area of their face that is the tone you would like to have be the mid-tone. So if you point at a shadowed part of their face, for instance, anything in light will be overexposed. Then look at your meter reading and dial in your settings. Then take the photo with those settings.
For sunsets, just meter normally as you would and bracket the shot with a sequence of three or more images. What I mean by that is if your sunset photo says 1/125th at f/8 then try it also at 1/250th and 1/60th. Or at f/5.6 and f/11. That will give you three shots that will, hopefully, return one with the colors and tones that you want.
@@DavidHancock hey, thank you so much! I’ll be using portra 400. I’ll do these steps. Thank you!
Do you have a video for beginners that teaches all these steps?
Does the SRT101 need a different cable release than later Minoltas like the XD-7 or X700 ? I have a nice cable release working fine on both XD-7 and X700, but doing nothing on the SRT101. Is this normal or is something broken in my (pre 1970) SRT101 ?
The cable release should be the same. The only difference I can think of is that the 101 may have a slightly deeper release catch, where the cable release pushes, inside the camera. That's just a guess. I've a few times run into cameras that need cable releases with really long probiscuses.
@@DavidHancock Thank you very much.
I would like to ask if the picture counter pointer pointed to 1 is it means that the first picture has already been taken? or it means going to take the first picture?
The latter is correct. It means you're next frame will be the first.
@@DavidHancock Thank you so much for your help! I really appreciate it 🙏
Hi ! What's the best way to clean the mirror in a this specific model? Thanks
Use some lens cleaning tissues and lens cleaner, dampen the tissues, and then wipe the mirror with them. You can then use a dry tissue to clean up the remaining fluid from the mirror. Don't press on the mirror and be gentle.
My shutter for 1/1000 and 1 second sounds, and looks on slow motion camera, the same. How do i know if it’s defective, and can it be fixed ?
Those shutter speeds should be noticably different just one their own. A one second shutter speed should last a full second. I'd send an email to Vermont Camera Works, assuming you're in the US, and see if they can repair it.
@@DavidHancock thanks for the fast reply. I’m not, but I’ve asked around, and repair in norway is goona cost 3x-4x what the camera itself cost, so i might just buy another camera
When I pull the exposure lever all the way it goes completely pitch black through the viewfinder, is there something I am doing that is causing this? If I don't pull it all the way 50% of the time it allows me to take a proper exposure. Thanks in advance.
The exposure lever would stop-down the lens (close the aperture), which would make the viewfinder go dark. So that's normal. If you set the lens to f/16 and only pull the exposure lever 50%, then it will only close the aperture down to about f/5.6 or f/8. That will cause the film to be pretty heavily overexposed. One thing you can do to see this in action is look at the front of the lens and watch the aperture as you depress the exposure lever. That should illustrate what's going on and the difference between half-way and complete.
The shutter button will not depress and the film advance lever only moves about a quarter of the way. Also, the timer does not come back all the way to vertical. I can manually turn the film sprocket but can't figure out how to free up the shutter.
That sounds like a jammed shutter. That will probably require professional service to repair.
Do you need the battery for the shutter to work? My shutter doesnt seem to work. The camera doesn't have battery.
Not in this camera. The shutter is completely mechanical and the battery only operates the light meter. What all have you tried in testing the shutter?
@@DavidHancock the latch to move to the right for the camera to take a picture. It doesnt move to the right it gets stuck unless i press the shutter button and itll move after i crank it. It doesn't snap.
I quite do not understand how to set settings for picture. If my film is 100 ISO I would set ISO on my camera 100 and never change that till the end of the film roll? And if ive got lenses MD Rokkor 45/2 it means that i set my f to 2 and dont change that too? Ive got lightmeter as an app on phone but i still can't get it and dont understand it very well. im completely new in this could you help me please?
So you're correct on the film ISO. Whatever you choose to use for the ISO setting, leave that for the whole role.
For your aperture, you can change that as much as you like. The same with your shutter speed. So let's say that your light meter app tells you that at 100 ISO you'd need to use f/5.6 and 1/125th for your aperture and shutter speed. You could do that. You could also use 1/250th and f/4 or 1/60th and f/8. Basically, any time you change the shutter speed or aperture one setting (stop, in photography terms) the other needs to move one stop the other directions
So let's take a look at your setups stops.
Camera:
1S, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1,000
Lens:
f/2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22 (maybe? not all 45mm f/2 lenses have f/22)
You can see there the relationship between going from 1/125th at f/5.6 to 1/60th at f/8. So as practice, using 1/125th at f/5.6 as your baseline meter reading, what aperture would you need to use to take a picture at 1/8th of a second?
As another example, if you know you need to use a shutter speed of 1/30th and an aperture of f/16, what aperture would you use to take a photo at 1/1,000th of a second?
Using a light meter app is slightly trickier than using the in-camera meter only because the interface is somewhat more confusing. Not knowing which app you have, a good app would let you tell it the aperture OR shutter speed you'd like to use and then give you the correct reading for the other.
Thanks but how do i know what aperture or what shutter speed? I know that lightmeter would tell me the other but how do i know the first basic thing...
Without a light meter, you can use the Sunny 16 rule. What that means is that you would set your shutter speed to your film speed (or the nearest number) and the aperture to f/16 for full sun. So let's say you're out on a walk in full sun with 400 ISO film. You'd set your aperture to f/16 and shutter to 1/500th. Then you could also use 1/1,000th and f/11.
If you had 100 ISO film, it would be f/16 and 1/125th in full sun. Then you could shoot 1/250 at f/11, 1/500 at f/8, and 1/1,000 at f/5.6.
In shade use f/8 instead of f/16. At dusk, f/8 or f/5.6. Indoors, f/2.8 or f/4. Those always assume that your shutter speed matches or is the closest setting to your film speed.
Thanks so much! Can i ask one more thing? You seem so professional. When im rewinding my film and all is ready for the shot and i wanna push that button and it just doesnt work idk why. Im still pushing it and it doesnt work then i try rewind it again until it allows me to do and i try to push that and after few pushes it works but you never know when.. whats wrong with that i dont know ..
Thank you!
So it sounds like the shutter button is not always triggering the shutter correct? That sounds like part of the shutter mechanism is either damaged or gummy with thick lubricants. Different parts of the camera's mechanism will have lubricating oil. With time, exposure to heat and cold, and dust getting into the camera, those lubricants can become thick and gummy. When that happens, parts of the camera stop working reliably. My guess is that part of the internal mechanism is sticking. The shutters on most cameras connect to a long, vertical rod that triggers gears on the bottom of the camera.
Unfortunately, the repair on that probably requires some amount of camera disassembly, and probably needs a camera repairman to look at it. The Fix Old Cameras channel might be able to confirm if that's the case and let you know if that's a repair that easy to do or not.
Hi David, thank you for the great run through on the 101. This was my first camera which I still have after 40 years. I also inherited my fathers Canon FT QL and I’m now trying to decide which one to keep in case I need a film camera in the future. Would you say the Minolta is the better of the 2? It does have a bigger film range and I guess a better range of available glass. What are your thoughts as I need to thin out the camera collection from the past? Thanks for your thoughts and your great videos.
Thank you!
Well, both have weaknesses. Both use the older and obsolete batteries and need either a modification to the electronics (very easy on both cameras) or a voltage-adapting A76 adapter in order for them to meter correctly. The SRT has silk cords that can jump their rails if settings are adjusted too quickly, but at you point out it has a better array of glass. With older cameras, it's generally a good idea to be gentle and not turn the dials as quickly as possible to begin with, so the ccords issue shouldn't be a problem.
I like the SRT series more than the FT series. I find the FT bodies a bit clunky and heavy. I like the meter in the SRTs a lot and I think they're very well thought out.
What flash should I get that are comparible with the srt 101?
Any flash you can buy new today will work as long as it isn't a Sony or for the Sony system.
I bought a Minolta SRT 101 with no lock-up mirror. Anyway, the problem is when i look on viewfinder, i didn't see anything, because the mirror are up. I must to arm the camera, now the mirror go down and i have a vision! It's my camera non functional, or is a trick to down the mirror ?
That's not uncommon with these and it's age-related wear. it could be a gear is mis-aligned or there's some thick grease in the mechanism. It's fixable but requires some shutter mechanism disassembly and that's best done by a professional.
Hi! So the l1560f vinnic battery needs an adapter?
To the best of my knowledge, yes.
David Hancock thank you, David!
what is the battery needed? I don’t really understand what he say, i’m french sorry
Your best choice is a 675 battery and a brass px625 adapter.
Hi. I have this camera. I have the GP Alkaline PX625A battery. Is it okay?
I'd recommend a 675 battery (hearing aid battery) with a basic brass adapter. That will have the proper voltage.
i shoot with this camera and got my films developed. but some of the pictures are out of focus :( any tips how to make sure pictures are focus through the viewfinder?
How out of focus? Did you, say, focus on someone's ear instead of their eye or did you focus on a streetlight three blocks away when you meant to focus on a person right in front of you? There are different solutions for each.
David Hancock i was shooting some acrobatic stunt performance. It didn't focus the person. Should i use zone focusing?
I'm not 100% sure that zone focusing will help. There are two possibilities:
1- The subjects moved (strong possibility if they were moving quickly)
2- The lens wasn't focused correctly (this happens.)
For #1, the only solution is practice and more tries. For #2, have you used this camera and lens extensively or is it new to you?
EXCELLENT. thx for this.
Thank you!
Hi I recently bought a Minolta SRT 101 but I was hoping to know from what year it is because the back where the DIS is not a circle, it is a rectangle type of placement. Loved your video!
I don't recall how to age these or if it's even possible.
Why would my advance lever not work, it was then it stopped, it just got the camera from my father in law, it's in great condition, I was operating it to see it's function, then it just stopped, I saw a video that mentioned it could be a battery issue ?
For this camera, it would not be the battery. That only operates the meter. Try rewinding the film. There are two possible causes -- film that was left in there and a mechanical issue. If it was film you can tell because the film rewind knob will not spin unless you rewind the film and depress the film release button on the bottom at the same time. If there is film in the camera rewind it all the way and then open the back and get it developed. It could be old family photos. If there is no film in the camera then something in the advance mechanism likely jammed and a professional repair will be needed.
@@DavidHancock thank you
Sometimes I don’t know how my photos are out of focus even though I always try to get a sharp focus. Or maybe I mistaked the focusing way, can you help me?
Hmm. There are a lot of possible reasons. Here are a few questions that can help me:
1- Are you shooting wide-open?
2- What subjects are you shooting?
3- Are you shooting hand-held?
How many times do I have to advance the film before being able to take a photo?
At the very beginning, three will take you to frame 1. After each shoot you take, just one.
@@DavidHancock thanks David I really appreciate these videos!
I've been using my camera for a few days now and today I realized the battery switch was set to off! Does his mean the pictures I took weren't actually taken?
The camera's mechanical comments operate without a battery. So there will be photos. If they were properly metered is a different question. Some may turn out, others not.
These videos are amazing, I have a question. I recently got the SRT101 in very good condition, but when I take a picture, the mirror stays up until I advance the film for the next shot. Is that normal? The camera isn't in bulb.
That's a mechanical issue. It's repairable but needs some disassembly and, in general, a professional service. Odds are that it has other latent issues and an overhaul would be helpful.
@@DavidHancock Thank you very much, had to replace a few gears.
I just ordered one of these to replace my stolen Fuji. Could someone please tell me the correct original battery for the meter?
These use the 1.35V mercury batteries that are no longer made. So you'd need to either use a 1.5V battery and adjust the ISO dial for a proper reading, buy a voltage-adapting A76 battery adapter, or modify the circuitry (pretty easy, Fix Old Cameras has a video showing how to do this on a different model of camera, but the process would be the same with this just under the base plate.)
David Hancock hi sorry to bother but when you say A76 battery adapter? I’m. It sure what you mean? When I goggle A76 battery I get 357 batteries that comes in a pack of 3? Will this do the trick?
Do you know of any one who develops film and where a person can get it?
There are a lot of independent labs still developing film, yes. If you're in the U.S. I've used Old School Photo Lab and The Darkroom. Both are excellent. Film can be had lots of place. Again, if you're in the U.S., Freestyle Photo, Adorama, B&H, and other shops sell film.
David Hancock Does all old-school and dark room do they do black and white
@@anthonyvialpando4876 Both of those labs will develop any film that you send them.
My srt101 shutter is frozen. What do I do?
Frozen how? Is it at the end of the roll or is the shutter action frozen? Was it working previously?
this camera accept md/mc lens?
Yup. MD and MC lenses are SR mount.
My minolta battery cover is not moving
The cap is either cross-threaded, over-threaded, or the battery in it exploded. I have a video that shows how to remove a stuck battery cap. It takes a bit of work. fortunately, the battery only runs the light meter in this camera and you can still take photos without a battery.
I sent mine to Tempe Camera and they are modifying the meter circuitry to take the newer 1.5 volt battery.
Nice! I've heard of them but never used them for a repair.
so, what is the ideal voltage to turn on the lightmeter? is it 1.4v or 1.3v?
btw nice vid dude, keep it up
Thank you! 1.35 is the spec voltage. A 675 heading aid battery in a simple brass adapter (sold on eBay) works very well.
how about LR44 to PX625? is it accurate?
@@visnuv8347 all of your photos will be underexposed by about two stops with an lr44. The voltage with those is way too high.
well thank you for the knowledge David!!
@@DavidHancock adapter link?
Appreciate
Thank you!
I bought it at a re-sale shop and didn't realize it was not working. Not a camera guy, so had my camera buddies check it out and they couldn't figure out what to do either.
The Battery situation sucks... I have 3 cameras with that problem. I have an external light meter, and I can even make good photos without a light meter because of experience. But it would be nice not having to worry about anything and just using the internal light meter like you are supposed to.
I agree. It's a challenge. You can use a modern battery and compensate for the voltage difference with your ISO dial. Simply get your readings off a good light meter, dial them in to your shutter speed and aperture dials, and then adjust the ASA ring until you have a proper meter reading in the viewfinder. You may need to do that every few months as the battery voltage changes, but that will work.
@@DavidHancock Good tip, thank you! I just got this Minolta SRT101 out of a bag where it sat unused for around 13 years, it belongs to my uncle switched to digital years ago. Now I got 5 Varta mercury batteries from a small german electronics shop in 2016, still sealed. But those must be at least 20 years old by now, as mercury batteries became illegal in Germany somewhere in the late 1990´s. So I doubt they will still have charge, but I will try them out, maybe I´m lucky, although my hopes are not high. If it doesn´t work, I´ll use your method. So thanks again, and greetings from Germany!
@@DavidHancock Just put in one of those old PX 625 batteries I mentioned. To my surprise, it still has full charge tested with the battery check of the camera, although it was already used. I compared the light meter reading to the one with the alkaline version of the battery that was in the camera when I got it. The difference is marginal, but exists. With the used alkaline battery, the metering line on my subject is fully centered in the circle. With the mercury version, it stops slightly high of the exact midpoint, but still within the circle. I guess that´s becaus of the current charging level of the alkaline and this will probably vary if the battery would be new.
Glad those old mercuries still work, sometimes one is lucky!
Thanks for the age tips. You helped me place min in to 1969. A pin of the flash shoe, Philips head screws that are NOT evenly spaced and a course shutter speed dial. It was working well quite a few years ago and is going in for clean and lub so I can get back in to using it again. Meter still works along with the rest. Sadly the top corner of the view find are a nasty dent - but that has never affected the performance. Yup you can beat muggers to death with one of these, then use it photograph the corpse ! mmmmwwwhhahahahaha. Try doing that with a modern digital :-}}}}
Thank you!
Found this model in mint condition. But the seller wants it for more than $100. Do you think it's worth it?
Depends on the lens it includes, but that's not a bad price. If possible, make sure that it has good light seals or that the seller is able to replace them. If no to both, I have a video showing how to replace light seals with cotton yarn light seals.
It comes with a MC rokkor 50mm f1.4 pg only. I'll ask about the light seals.
@@abdihassan796 That's a good price and a great lens.
Thank you very much. This will be my very first film camera. And you have been a great help👌🏿🇳🇴
When I first used this camera we called the film speed ASA
Yup. ASA and ISO are the same.
Nobody explains the way you do, MAN!
Thank you!
Dumb question i had the asa to 1000 then inside to 400 it has to be on 60 - red then 400 ? Im shooting portra 400 kodak ? Im new to film photography camera 📷
You should keep the ASA at the film's speed, sounds like 400 in this case, and not change it mid-roll. Changing ISO mid-roll will screw up some of your shots.