Top 9 Tips for Water Filter Owners
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2019
- Strap in as we deliver the top nine need-to-know tips for your water filter system!
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1. Don't use the wrench to tighten the housing, only to loosen. It can harm the o-ring
2. Install a drain on the bottom of the filter housing to drain it before replacing - making it lighter
3. Flow: Water -> sediment filter -> carbon filter -> UV
4. Filter after the pressure switch/tank. Well pumps can add too much pressure.
5. For seasonal cottage: take the filters out of the housing at the end of the season if you drain the system.
6. Ball valve before and after your filtration system. Better: by-pass too.
7. Pressure gauge before and after filtration system to determine pressure drop. Mark the PSI to replace your filter right on the gauge with sharpie
8. Three types of carbon filters for different purposes. a. carbon block treats the most gallons of water but is slower. b. Granulated carbon is good for more flow. c. Impregnated filter add some carbon to pleated filter - best flow rate but least carbon.
9. Three ttypes of sediment filters: Poly, wound and pleated
What about filters that are a combination of a pleated filter on the outside gradually going from 25 micron to 5 micron and then finishing with carbon inside? I'm guessing that means the water flows into the outside of the filter then seeps into the interior then shoots out to the home from the center.
But is that combo filter as effective?
I have been enjoying your awesome videos! If I may add one more need-to-know tip, which I discovered as a novice owner of a house with well-water and pressure tank, turn off the well pump and close any valve going to the filter to relieve the water pressure going to the filter housing to enable unscrewing and removal of the filter housing to change the filter. Thanks!
Excellent info and presentation as always,...…….thank you,...….when I need something for my well system it will be from you for providing this great service of sharing information and knowledge.
Good content, as usual. Thank you!
Hey Chris, how ironic, I just saw this video about an hour after we talked on the phone. Thanks for your advice and keep the great videos coming!
Mike West
Note that the pressure gauges will only show difference when there is active flow and will be impacted by the amount of flow ( more flow = higher pressure drop). When the system is static the gauges will equalize
Thank you Chris for the info, can you please give us some pointers on HOT WATER filters??
Thanks for the video Chris...I think I need a new gasket for my water filter housing.
Excellent series , thanks so much. Even though I have had a system for some time, I did learn a thing or two and found your explanation to be quick simple and informative. Wish you were more locale to us up here in Central Ontario Canada. Always need a good plumber. Stay safe and well.
Glad to help!
Thanks, lovely video, I finally understood why all the different filters
Glad it was helpful!
Great info!
Thanks Chris! I argued with the plumber to get the stop cocks on both sides, he refused. He actually had to get a neighbor to do the plumbing and install. I was still at a point where I couldn’t bend. They decided they knew better than the directions.... I never thought of a gauge to help decide when to change the filter. Now if you can help me with why we lose so much water pressure when our neighbor is using the shared well, I’d be a very happy camper!
I know i'm late to reply but the water pressure issue is likely caused by too small of a pressure tank being used, or if the pressure remains low even after the pump turns on it could be an undersized pump.
Awesome, awesome , awesome tips!
Thank you so much for this great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video. More signal, less noise than other videos about filters.
Glad you liked it!
You Are Always A Wealth Of information Thanks
So nice of you
Excellent Video!
Thanks for watching!
RC, if you are running a pressure switch/pressure tank system, do you need to or should you increase the pressure switch setting to compensate for the pressure drop across the filters?
Excellent tips!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
are any of the carbon filter types good at measurably reducing the chlorine prior to a resin softener system? ex from 2ppm to
Great video thanks for the info
You bet
What do you recommend for someone on town water, already have a softener system but I would like to add a sediment filter due to having a ton of sediment in a 3 yr old hot water tank that rusted out?
Are all 4.5" x 10" pleated filters interchangeable regardless of the manufacturer? For example, can I use a Culligan pleated filter in an A.O. Smith housing? Also, some filter manufacturers recommend changing the filter after a fixed time period. If the flow is still satisfactory after that time period, do you still recommend following the manufacturers recommendation?
Hi all,
I have a new well and the water is slightly salted. Is there a way to fix this? Thanks
Helpfull thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
My home only has a very large sediment filter . Is this a major issue? The home inspector and builder both described the unit as the house's water filter. I have not noticed anything odd with the water in terms of colors or smells and when it was tested nothing came back alarming other than being higher on the hardness side. I just don't have the money right now to pay a plumber to install a water softener and terrified of doing anything myself when it comes to pipes and water.
The tap cuts the threads in the drilled hole.
A die is for cutting threads on a solid rod to make a screw, bolt etc.
Right you are, good catch!
I need one of those o rings! Can't find one anywhere. The short fat one on the left side. Thanks for the videos.
We sell them! www.rcworst.com/Big-Blue-Buna-N-O-Ring-PTK151122-p15335.html
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Maybe a silly question, but can all the canisters in a triple setup be clear (instead of 2 being blue)? And I live in Daytona Beach (hot & humid), can these canisters be set up outside next to my water softener? In the shade or in a tiny shed? We want to descale our faucets/sinks/tub/etc., remove the salt taste, and stop the occasional drip of pink or dark slime. 😱 I know, it sounds horrible. We like your use of exhaust valves on the bottom of canisters. Do you design, sell, install in Daytona Beach?
I've just pulled out a GE. filter because it leaked so much. I've never had one of these not leak if I hand tighten it.
Do you reccomend clear filter canisters to check filters? How does one know when a filter is ready for exchange?
Clear canisters are definitely nice to have. You'll know when to change the filters when the water pressure starts to get unbearably low. The more plugged they get the less water they allow through.
Always a great experience doing business with RC Worst. Thanks for the video!
Our pleasure!
1 or 5 micron for well? I am looking at moving from 5 micron 20x2.5 to 1 or 5 micron 20x4.5 with a 50 micron spindown, I don't have a lot of sediment build-up, I have a 5 stage ro for the drinking water tap
What would you recommend for high lead content
Summary:
1. Use filter wrenches only for loosening. Hand tighten. (Use vaseline on threads?)
2. Add a petcock to the bottom of the filter housing, to allow drainage (to reduce weight)
3. Sediment filters always first (before optional carbon filter)
4. Pressure switch is between pump and filtration.
5. Remove filters during “off season”. Prevents mold….
6. Ball value before and after filtration. Consider bypass for emergency.
7. Pressure gauges before and after filtration. Add sharpie mark at “filter change spot”.
8. Carbon filters.
8.1. Carbon block: Restricts flow, most expensive.
8.2. Granulated carbon: Less carbon, higher flow rates. Middle solution.
8.3. Impregnated filter: Highest flow rate, least carbon. Cheapest
9. Sediment filters:
9.1. Polyblown: Cheapest, but plugs most often
9.2. String filter: Balance of cost,and flow restriction.
9.3. Pleated: Highest flow, least restriction. Slightly more expensive
1 no vaseline will shrink o ring
Good day what lube to use on the o ring?
Great video and tips. I had to laugh 0:27 Hi Greg!, 0:30 buy Greg!.
😁
When you say AFTER THE SWITCH, do you mean on the HOUSE side? Correct? I have to add a filter in new home, and I have 1in. PVC coming into well/bladder/switch, and 3/4 CPVC into house! I bought what I thought I need and then realized it was all 3/4 PVC not CPVC, so had to buy CPVC and now I am ready but concerned about "AFTER" being after the switch meaning going into the house side CPVC? Any help would be appreciated! Otherwise confirming this is correct, great video!!
Yes, on the house side of the pressure switch
Great video! For a well system what micron rating should be used for the sediment filter and the carbon filter?
After changing filter my water still smell like rotten eggs sulfer😊
Just a different perspective . After watching several of your well tank videos and learning from you , thank you . My 3rd generation well guy complimented me on installing my in line filter before the bladder tank . He said in his experience taking the silt and grit out before , extended the life of the bladder . Which you also mention ( the in tank grit ) in your other tank videos , that could cause bladders to fail . So who has the correct answer? before or after ? He also said grit could clog the pressure switch tub or water pressure gauge , over time . Your thoughts ?
If your water filter gets clogged even once without you noticing it could burn up the pump since the pressure switch has no way of knowing that the filter is clogged. The benefits don't outweigh the risks in my opinion.
@@RCworstwater thanks chris
Inc. isn't there some type of pressure switch that could prevent this situation. lile a blo-off valve
@@timjohnson6864 no pressure switch on a well bladder tank . Keeping grit out of everything down stream , gauges , pressure switch , etc., is cheap insurance, i think . Plus the filter is easy to change in the well house , not under the house floor / crawl space.
savage you miss understood what I was saying similar to how a water heater works once the pressure. gets to high it opens a valve to relieve the excess pressure just like the other guy had said a water filter before everything can protect it but can also cause excessive and potentially destructive pressure where as some type of pressure relief valve should in theory prevent a hazzard or excess damage
Hi Chris, I need a new filter housing and ring gaskets. Where can I buy these? I hope you can help!
Check out our website: Rcworst.com
If you do build a bypass as suggested (which I don't recommend), make sure to never bypass the first filter.
You don't want rainwater to run unfiltered in your pipes. Whenever some large debris gets in your system, it will stay there forever
In what order should the filter be in? I have a 10 inch 5 micron and a 20 inch 20 micron system.
Larger micron first
My well water is over 9 in ph, is there anything I should do about that? Everything I see is for treating acidic water, nothing for alkaline water. It's really annoying because it gives my whole family very itchy skin.
Thank you for this info, very helpful. I'm wondering if you would recommend teflon tape when reinstalling the housing to help removing the housing for the next filter change?
No need. The housing is sealed via an O-ring. Teflon tape would only make that seal harder to achieve.
Just moved into a house and don't know what size filter I need to buy to replace dirty filter. There are no part numbers. How do I know what filter I need?
Give us a call: 855.329.4519
Is it better to put filter before or after pump
After the pump. If you put a filter in the suction line you risk starving the pump of water and it burning up.
@@RCworstwatercheers for the response
@ 1:16, a die doesn't tap, it cuts external or male threads. A tap, cuts internal, or female threads.
Wait, did you say the filters should be placed after the pump, because our pump has the pressure switch on it. Right now our filters are placed between the pump and the well.
That is correct - any filters need to be AFTER the pump, pressure switch, and pressure tank. If your filters get clogged the pump will run until it overheats.
@@RCworstwater Thanks
My whole house water filter does, in fact, come after my pressure switch, pressure gauge, pressure tank. However, it often gets totally jam-pakced with gunk, which means that gunk if getting into my pressure tank, which seems awful to me and I'm afraid could reduce the life of my pressure tank. I wanted to put the filter before the well water gets to the pressure tank, but I understand now that it could mean that the pressure switch won't turn off and could cause some serious damage as a result. But surely, there must be a way to prevent sludge from getting ito my pressure tank. Help!
Shock you well regular and your bladder will get cleaned out as you fish the well good luck
Flush
@@mycatmycat3786 Thank you for the advice. I think I've heard that elsewhere. Could you explain to me how Chlorine shocker tablets will prevent sludge, though? That seems weird. Thank you!
@@sethmoking Sludge is more likely a iron bacteria or some other TDS so sanitation or the well will kill the bacteria there for no sludge. Good luck.
The issue is, if you have it pre holding tank, you would be replacing media more often (I install, and maintain filters)
From homes to industrial.
I had to cut one out pre holding tank because the filter media was hit with constant pressure. And it caused “channeling”.
The cure to this is to flush your holding tank, but install all filters post pump system (pressure tank and switch).
And the filters to be backwashing.
Some run “down flow” vs “up flow” in and out valves. So that means if the water isn’t used (stagnant) for a period of time, the media (depending on what is used in the mineral tank itself), the media can lock up causing channeling.
Automatic backwashing valves will backwash on a certain time (generally between midnight and 0200) to stir up the media and wash it out.
And then you have flow rates.
1” vs 3/4” lines.
There are so many variations, and issues on their own that go along with certain filters.
Most sellers would ask “What does your water look like?”.
I run water through a lab and custom build filters, and program filter valves to meet the needs of water filtration.
Also!!
Bleach your well! How deep is the well?
1 gallon per 100ft of well depth is recommended.
Bypass filters. And run your spigots, and faucets, until you smell bleach/chlorine. Let it sit for at least 12 hrs. (This kills IR bacteria, and also helps oxidize iron in the well)
Post 12hrs (the very least is 12hrs). Run water until you don’t smell bleach/chlorine, and then turn the filters to service, backwash them right away! And let it run its entire course..
I highly recommend Fleck, they are a good, sturdy filter valve! And you can use them on IR/Neut. filters.
I can go on and on. Anyway. I hope that some info helps. And I LOVE doing what I do!! (Help people to get CLEAN and HEALTHY water!)
My filter won't unscrew. Any tips to loosen it?
Use a wrench and slide a 2-3' PVC "leverage" pipe over the wrench to increase the power applied. In the future, you should clean the O-ring and o-ring channel, as well as apply a food-grade lubricant to ensure it comes off easily.
Make sure water pressure has been released, buy a second wrench, two wrenches make it real easy
Thank you but I don't understand what you said about where to place the filter. If the sediment would clog the tank and pressure switch why would you want the filter AFTER the tank and switch and not before?
Good question. If you place the filter before the pressure switch then the pressure switch will not shut the pump off when the filter inevitably gets clogged.
@@RCworstwater Ahhh., makes sense. Thanks for your reply. Great job on the videos.
PLEASE PUT SUB ON AS WE HAVE TO READ AS WE CANT HEAR OK