9:15 I like how you showed the process of installing the track for the guides but then your final shot shows them attached to your 80/20 fence like I would have done it
This one of my favorite videos. My grandfather had his wood shop setup and customized to perfection. He passed away before I was old enough to absorb and appreciate everything he had done. This video not only gave me ideas but also took me back to his shop. Than you, sir.
Buying a Saw Stop for my new shop in my new house, and went searching for inserts for the saw. Found this site (for the 2nd time) and this time saved it to my shop ideas play list. Love what you did for the dust extraction system and the upgrades you made to the fence. My kids bought me a Jessem Clear-Cut TS Stock Guide for my saw and setting it up with the rail on the fence is an awesome idea, something I'm sure I'll be incorporating into my saw. Thanks again for all you do for the woodworking community.
I installed the aluminum extrusion on my fence today. I used the hardware recommended by Mark in the description. At 4:10 when he says "the bolts just barely grab the metal around the keyhole slot" he wasn't kidding. Because of this -- combined with the difficulty of tightening the screws with a ball-head hex key -- I opted to add some washers to keep the screws from slipping out of the keyhole. A dowel with a small square of double-sided tape at the end helps feed the screws into the holes from inside the fence. Next up, I'll be making my very own Cremona.
Love my Jessem clear cut saw guides! The only complaint I have is the tires. when they get a couple of years old they start degrading, becoming gooey and collecting sawdust. New tires are a little pricey but I bit the bullet and my guides are as good as new!
If you get the Jessem guides that are intended for router tables, you could slide them right into (and out of) your aluminum extrusion face. Then you also have them to use on your router table!
I have both, there is a significant size difference between the router and table saw versions. The router ones definitely don’t seem beefy enough for table saw use.
@@TheFPSCENTRAL This comment is strange. Router work is much more involving than table saw work, particularly for a rip cut, so if those router guides are beefy enough for your router work, they probably are beefy enough for table saw work. I think the only real difference is that the table saw guides allow you to extend them far away from the fence, meaning you can support much wider pieces.
I added those Jessem Clear-Cut TS guides to my tablesaw last year. BY FAR the best upgrade I've made to my table saw in a decade. They are niiiiiiiiice. I briefly tried the board buddies first, they're ok, but the Jessem is worth the price difference.
Marc great concept, but needs to be an easier way to reattach or grab the inside of the bar to the extrusion? Just not enough grab with the bolts you recommended, too easy to slip or move. Doing some experiments with 1/2 bolts, vice 1/4 inch, and the oval nuts on both sides of bar, one on the bar inside and one in the extrusion. Need a ball end allen wrench for sure to get the angle to retighten. Been trying, frustrated and yes with little success. Agree with your comment on not the best way for sawstop to attach the bar face, maybe a recessed nut bolt arrangement, so you can get from both sides.
Marc, love your style and humor (squeaky toy sound!). Of all these great add-ons, what really excited me was... the organizer thing you added to the saw's wood extension side. I'm doing this to stop looking there and saying, "Oh, FFS..." I will paint it black.
Great suggestions Marc. I quite like your metal extrusion fence face. All of them are good. I do find my dust collection really sucks (in the wrong way) when using the zero clearance plate. My Delta doesn't have an overhead port of any sort so I have tried drilling various holes in the plate to give room for air and dust. Sorta kinda works. I love your channel (and Matt's).
Cover any holes. Like that big gapping hole at the tilt channel also a lot depends on your dust collection system and its cfm ratings and type of filter it uses.
Thank you for the instructions on the extrusion face... this is the type thing that I'm always terrified of figuring out on my own as I'm always afraid I"ll mess it up and have to buy the whole thing over again!
So question about tapping, I have only done it on mild steal and by hand, for taping other materials like brass or aluminum is the process done different, do you need to do back turns to clear the threads?
@@janitorbob2008 I use the same process regardless of material, though if I'm tapping wood I don't use cutting oil. Slow cuts backing out to clear threads every few turns like you said. I know some are comfortable using power tools but I still just do it by hand.
Good advice. I did a similar thing with my Axiom CNC. They wanted $500 for an overhead dust collection pipe. Using 4" black PVC and a couple of toilet flanges, I made the same configuration for $76.
I finally splurged on the Jess Em stock guides a couple of years ago and they are fantastic! I find that I get more accurate cuts, especially when cutting plywood shelves and panels that need to be truly square.
I just bought a Harvey ALPHA saw and without any accessories other than their overhead dust collection arm. This system is one of the best I've seen and every bit as good as the one that cost 3 x as much on my FELDER Sliding Table Saw. All the fences etc are from Incra. The extension table will be a full drawer cabinet built by me that extends into a full woodworking bench. I'm looking forward to seeing how it comes out.
The best upgrade for me was an upgrade from a table saw to a plunge saw with an mft table. Much less dust, easier to cut, requires less space. For me it works better for a small DIY shop
"I think I'll call it Cremona" - glad I didn't have a mouthful of coffee. Also thumbs up on the Jessem guides - great anti kick back and really help getting clean consistent cuts.
Those upgrades to the saw stop are brilliant. I’ve often had issues with feather boards for example. I like the dust collector DIY. I’m using 2” black ABS for mine and only 2’ of corrugated tube at either end of the long skinny ABS “U” to connect to the guard and for the hookup to the 4” port
Hi Marc, As usual great ideas and demonstration. I have most of those ideas on my table saw and they work superbly and safely. The Jessem's avoid me because of the cost. However, feather boards off a t-track on the top of the fence do a great job coupled with a side featherboard to hold everything down and on the fence. Sorry, but why do so many people forget that Magswitches can be used in stacks of jigs.... you can take them out and move them around? I have a range of them for all sorts of jigs and they are a one off cost for multiple solutions. Even the Sawstop overhead dust collection arm works great on my tablesaw. Thanks again.
Interesting video! Like a lot of hobby woodworkers, I find the very desirable Woodpecker attachments, gadgets , etc. priced out of common sense range but you find ways to bypass the originals and save money AND make them work!! Appreciate your ingenuity. Keep it up!!
Nice video. Along these lines, may I suggest a video comparing after-market table saw fences? I thought your miter gauge video was excellent - but I tend to get more frustrated with the out-of-box fence on my Delta contractor table saw. It's not bad per se - just fiddly!
Great video Marc, always great to see clever ways to optimize the table saw, and even better when someone presents a detailed way to do it! I have the ICS model, and also experimented with ways to improve the table top dust collection. In my experience, connecting a Festool CT26 directly to the port on the blade guard did not significantly improve dust collection as compared to the SS overarm thing...though I did change the "Y" connection at the saws 4 inch port so the airflow from the 2 inch hose was now towards the DC (Oneida V3000)... I don't have an air flow meter, so it may well be that the CT26 did provides more suction, but it did not result in enough of an improvement for me to dedicate it to the saw. Also, did I see some "dots" in the background for the "Origin" CNC machine??? If you review that, please address how it can be used (if it indeed can...) without first mastering a CAD program.. Thanks again for the video!
Nice upgrades! Yes, dust collection on the SawStop is exceptional when both the cabinet port and blade guard dust ports are used! And despite other prominent YT'ers saying it wouldn't work well for machines like table saws and planers, my dust collection system is powered by a large shop-vac with key fob remote control and works very well on all my machines except the chop saw. My solution to the blade guard dust port is a mini shop-vac sitting on the extension table...for now. I've been thinking about hanging it from the ceiling to get it completely out of the way, but I rarely cut sheet goods, so it's seldom in the way. Only downside is it wouldn't be controlled by remote (it's now now either). Nice build on the DIY overarm, but I don't think I'd like any type of overarm system. I may have to go with the aluminum fence though! I've noticed my fence isn't PERFECTLY straight, or square to the table for that matter, which was frustrating when I built a spline jig a couple weeks back. I screwed a cabinet door handle onto the main rail endcap and I store the allen wrenches in there. A drawer would be even better! Thanks for a great video!
9:04 - Some lubricant on the tap is a Real Good Ideal. For that matter, using a tap wrench and doing it by hand isn't a bad idea. I was taught to reverse the direction a bit every half-rotation or so, but that seems to have gone out of fashion.
Jessem stock guides👍. Outstanding for older saws with no riving knife (or usable kickback pawls). The wheels roll only one way to counter (prevent?) kickback. Extrusion fence face is an interesting idea! Speaking of fences, a replacement fence is probably a first consideration for those older saws. Thanks for the ideas.
The Wood Whisperer talks to Table Saws! What a great video!!! I like all of your table saw enhancements. Also, you can use the unistrut for custom storage solution also. Would like to get your thoughts pro and cons of adding a digital measurement device to a table saw.
I bought the Colliflower inserts based on your recommendation. Solid parts and the fit really well. Jake Colliflower was very responsive to my questions too.
Awesome. I did very similar thing last year, only welded up a bracket and box tubing. Yours looks just as good ! I used a section of straight shop vac extension tube to a hose. Love the material you picked it's sturdy. Love the U-bolt idea. I am using a velcro strap to park it. AND ...I need to use your extrusion idea !
You are correct, sliding on the tee track to the fence is/was a bear. Also, the design for the screws is not great! Great Video. So, I now have the tee track installed and the jessum Clear Cut guides.
Mark I put my floating over arm on a Y off a single 4 inch drop. One to the cabinet and one to the overarm. On the Floating overarm I am pulling close to 600 cfm at the end of the tube.
Woodcraft and Infinity have sales on the Jessem saw guides from time to time. I saved $60 the last time they were in sale. Also, if you do decided to mount them using wood and mag switches just done screw the magswitch down and you can use them on other jigs as well. A person could just plain the word strip to the exact thickness of the magswitch and the lip on the mag switch holds the wood strip down.
I found a used SS Overhead Vacuum assy on CR and hook it to a separate Shop Vac which is operated automatically activated switch. It works fantastically!
I have had the Jessum accessory for a couple of years now and I did the attach to some 3/4 inch Baltic Birch and use 2 mag switches and it works perfectly. I am going to switch to the aluminum extrusion fence so I can add the sacrificial fences and other accessories you showed and I have a shop vac I'm not using that much and will add that to my over arm suction. thanks for the tips!
I just used strut to hang my dust collector but I didn't think about using it for the table saw dust collection. I have a 1944 Unisaw, dust collection wasnt exactly built in... If I can find a blade guard to retrofit I'm going to do copy your idea. Thanks for the video.
I purchased the extruded aluminum fence shown in the video and had difficulty securing it to the saw stop fence. The screws shown aligned exactly with the large part of the keyhole slot. They could not be tightened to secure the two fence pieces. I used a pair of needle nose plier to thread a washer on the screw before attaching the oval nut. Took some finagling but got her on their. Also I tried using a single sheet of paper thickness and it felt like it was dragging. When I doubled it up by folding it in half worked like a charm.
In the interest of efficiency and simplicity you could have run a hard pipe all the way to the end of your bracket. The corrugated hose adds feet of restriction compared to a smooth lined pipe. It looks like you could have had about 3' of hose compared to the 10 or so feet you did use. Too many people go crazy with hose when it is only needed for the small flexible connection between machine and hard pipe. To further simplify and efficienify you could simply do away with the bracket and drop a pipe/hose down from the ceiling since that is where the dust collection system already is. Just a few feet compared to the many feet and bracketry of the saw mounted system.
Have you done a video on where to source lumber for things like books shelves, furniture, etc... just general non-construction lumber? This is what I'm having a major problem doing and it's really impacting my desire to attempt larger projects
Hey you ever think about building a custom cabinet under the wing of the saw for storage… it’s really convenient and looks awesome but I’d like to see what to come up with
The Jessem guides are the best accessory I've ever bought for any tool. I agonized over spending the money for a long time. After using them, I am still lamenting not buying them immediately.
I looked into getting a fence rail drawer for my Biesemeyer fence and found someone on Ebay selling 18 inch or 36 inch long drawers that fit Biesemeyer rails for $ 25 or $ 30. I ordered some 18 inch ones and will see how they are.
Years ago, I spray painted my bandsaw table flat black because the glare was a distraction when making small tight cuts. Btw, I make small drawers out of sheet aluminum repurposed from an old aluminum awning by bending it into a U shape and tacking in thin wood ends. Might try making a drawer for my table saw void, if I can figure out what to stored in there 🤔.
For my over arm dust I purchased a used whole house vacuum and connecting it to my blade guard port (Shark Guard). This coupled with the high volume port connected to the base. The entire setup is turned on & off when the saw is started. It collects most of the dust. Don't forget to run the saw dust through a mini Dust Deputy to extend the life of vac.
A 1/4 HP power feeder is also a great accessory. Especially when you need to rip many long boards. It has a continuous motion into the blade, which avoids the starts and stops when repositioning your hands to push. That eliminates small dings or blade marks that needs to be sanded later. It also keeps your hands away from the blade, holds the boards down and angled toward the fence, and makes the job quicker to finish, as you walk to the output of the saw to remove the board just ripped while ripping another. I made a whole home worth of cabinets for kitchen, laundry and bathrooms and my power feeder was the best accessory investment I've ever made. MagSwitch has magnets and plans to make a base for power feeders. Although it's designed for mini 1/8HP power feeders, I was able to add two more 235# MagSwitch magnets in addition to the two ~1100# magnets that come with the kit. I've also used the power feeder on my built in router table on the table saw. Power feeders are best used on cabinet table saws with cast iron tops.
Thanks Marc, I have a similar aluminum fence (Woodpecker Supertrack) on my Delta T2 Fence, but havent taken advantage of too many attachments for it yet. I ordered the hardware you linked to add any sacrificial fence small, tall whatever. I can also use them on my miter gauge since it has an aluminum extrusion Powertech fence as well. The fence you linked looks awesome, I would have just purchased that. Comes in a lot of sizes. Thanks
Good information. I realize that I'm something of a dinosaur in that my table saw is a 48 year old Delta Contractor's 10 inch. Having said that some of the suggestions that you make can be adapted to the Delta, but not all of them. SacrificiaI fences and the like are an interesting project to do on the Delta fence. I have a Ripstrake device that acts as a hold down on the fence that is also probably pushing 45 years old. It requires an add-on to the fence for use. Don't know if anyone else uses the things or not. ZCIs are mostly made from 1/2 laminate flooring at a fraction of the cost of a OEM insert. Dust collection is a FrankenVac system, but I to like the overhead arm idea. Mebbe in the winter I'll get out my DIY Engineer Cap and have at it. Wish I had the time and bucks to invest in a "newer" saw, but the old Delta does what I need and want to do.
Couple more things to think about: woodpeckers rip flip plus a DRO. With that setup you get almost perfect repeatability with stops and micro adjust. It’s got many of the advantages of the Incra fence system but also stays out of the way. I also have the Jessem track permanently attached to my fence and made a little caddy that rides on the fence for the push sticks, etc.
I just started watching but I have to stop to tell you Get a step bit!! They don’t bind up on sheet metal and you won’t twist your wrist because your bit jammed I’ll continue now.
I'm surprised your saw didn't come with the "free" overarm dust collection where that whole arm pivots and pops in and out via friction at the end of the table and splices into the main dust collection. Anyhow, wondering if and when you'll opt for the Sliding crosscut table addon. I just got mine a week ago and is awesome especially for large sheets of plywood and bulky large crosscuts of solid wood. I'm building the executive desk now and will try it out trimming the ends of the large table top instead of circle saws and straight edges. Only pita is the need to occasionally remove the miter fence to do ripping wider than 15" to the left of the blade. But that is just as fast as changing from dado to regular blade and brakes :) I think I'm going to try your aluminum fence option and eventually the Jessem guides as I see a need for that often on longer rips.
Great video, I was looking at how you mounted the Jessem guide and at 9:16 in the video it appears that the guides are mounted on the aluminum extrusion. Thanks
Marc, I don't think the woodworking community appreciates you enough. Thanks for teaching us over all these years.
I appreciate his work. Why?
No blaring metal music.
Great narrating voice.
Great ideas!
Totally agree. Marc still has one of the best WW channels on RUclips.
😮🍌
9:15 I like how you showed the process of installing the track for the guides but then your final shot shows them attached to your 80/20 fence like I would have done it
This one of my favorite videos. My grandfather had his wood shop setup and customized to perfection. He passed away before I was old enough to absorb and appreciate everything he had done. This video not only gave me ideas but also took me back to his shop. Than you, sir.
Buying a Saw Stop for my new shop in my new house, and went searching for inserts for the saw. Found this site (for the 2nd time) and this time saved it to my shop ideas play list. Love what you did for the dust extraction system and the upgrades you made to the fence. My kids bought me a Jessem Clear-Cut TS Stock Guide for my saw and setting it up with the rail on the fence is an awesome idea, something I'm sure I'll be incorporating into my saw. Thanks again for all you do for the woodworking community.
I installed the aluminum extrusion on my fence today. I used the hardware recommended by Mark in the description. At 4:10 when he says "the bolts just barely grab the metal around the keyhole slot" he wasn't kidding.
Because of this -- combined with the difficulty of tightening the screws with a ball-head hex key -- I opted to add some washers to keep the screws from slipping out of the keyhole. A dowel with a small square of double-sided tape at the end helps feed the screws into the holes from inside the fence.
Next up, I'll be making my very own Cremona.
Thanks. THe washer and dowel trick would have saved me 5 hours of frustration had I read your comment 5 hours ago!
Printing the little drawer now. I'm using orange PLA to maybe help me remember it's there. Thanks for the tip!
leave a review if you like it! :P
Love my Jessem clear cut saw guides! The only complaint I have is the tires. when they get a couple of years old they start degrading, becoming gooey and collecting sawdust. New tires are a little pricey but I bit the bullet and my guides are as good as new!
If you get the Jessem guides that are intended for router tables, you could slide them right into (and out of) your aluminum extrusion face. Then you also have them to use on your router table!
Sort of. They each work a little different. It’s worth it to have the right ones.
I have both, there is a significant size difference between the router and table saw versions. The router ones definitely don’t seem beefy enough for table saw use.
@@TheFPSCENTRAL This comment is strange. Router work is much more involving than table saw work, particularly for a rip cut, so if those router guides are beefy enough for your router work, they probably are beefy enough for table saw work.
I think the only real difference is that the table saw guides allow you to extend them far away from the fence, meaning you can support much wider pieces.
I added those Jessem Clear-Cut TS guides to my tablesaw last year. BY FAR the best upgrade I've made to my table saw in a decade. They are niiiiiiiiice. I briefly tried the board buddies first, they're ok, but the Jessem is worth the price difference.
Thanks so much, I was having major heartburn about paying so much for dust collection but this solution is perfect and cost effective.
Marc great concept, but needs to be an easier way to reattach or grab the inside of the bar to the extrusion? Just not enough grab with the bolts you recommended, too easy to slip or move. Doing some experiments with 1/2 bolts, vice 1/4 inch, and the oval nuts on both sides of bar, one on the bar inside and one in the extrusion. Need a ball end allen wrench for sure to get the angle to retighten. Been trying, frustrated and yes with little success. Agree with your comment on not the best way for sawstop to attach the bar face, maybe a recessed nut bolt arrangement, so you can get from both sides.
Great stuff. I am grateful for your Off Kick Switch also. It saved my butt a couple of times. Also extra style point for black zip ties.
Marc, thanks for showing us just how much easier it is to use a tool when you take the time to set it up with cool stuff.
Marc, love your style and humor (squeaky toy sound!). Of all these great add-ons, what really excited me was... the organizer thing you added to the saw's wood extension side. I'm doing this to stop looking there and saying, "Oh, FFS..." I will paint it black.
Great suggestions Marc. I quite like your metal extrusion fence face. All of them are good. I do find my dust collection really sucks (in the wrong way) when using the zero clearance plate. My Delta doesn't have an overhead port of any sort so I have tried drilling various holes in the plate to give room for air and dust. Sorta kinda works.
I love your channel (and Matt's).
Cover any holes. Like that big gapping hole at the tilt channel also a lot depends on your dust collection system and its cfm ratings and type of filter it uses.
Thank you . Just assembled my PCS today and looking forward to many years of use and incorporating some of your ideas.
Yet another thumbs up video. No time wasting here.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thank you for the instructions on the extrusion face... this is the type thing that I'm always terrified of figuring out on my own as I'm always afraid I"ll mess it up and have to buy the whole thing over again!
When drilling or tapping metal you might find cutting oil to help with the process.
So question about tapping, I have only done it on mild steal and by hand, for taping other materials like brass or aluminum is the process done different, do you need to do back turns to clear the threads?
@@janitorbob2008 I use the same process regardless of material, though if I'm tapping wood I don't use cutting oil. Slow cuts backing out to clear threads every few turns like you said. I know some are comfortable using power tools but I still just do it by hand.
Came here to say that, it was like fingernails on chalkboard to watch that.
Good advice. I did a similar thing with my Axiom CNC. They wanted $500 for an overhead dust collection pipe. Using 4" black PVC and a couple of toilet flanges, I made the same configuration for $76.
I finally splurged on the Jess Em stock guides a couple of years ago and they are fantastic! I find that I get more accurate cuts, especially when cutting plywood shelves and panels that need to be truly square.
I just bought a Harvey ALPHA saw and without any accessories other than their overhead dust collection arm. This system is one of the best I've seen and every bit as good as the one that cost 3 x as much on my FELDER Sliding Table Saw. All the fences etc are from Incra. The extension table will be a full drawer cabinet built by me that extends into a full woodworking bench. I'm looking forward to seeing how it comes out.
The best upgrade for me was an upgrade from a table saw to a plunge saw with an mft table. Much less dust, easier to cut, requires less space. For me it works better for a small DIY shop
"I think I'll call it Cremona" - glad I didn't have a mouthful of coffee.
Also thumbs up on the Jessem guides - great anti kick back and really help getting clean consistent cuts.
Those upgrades to the saw stop are brilliant. I’ve often had issues with feather boards for example. I like the dust collector DIY. I’m using 2” black ABS for mine and only 2’ of corrugated tube at either end of the long skinny ABS “U” to connect to the guard and for the hookup to the 4” port
put the extrusion on my fence and its great, i like the dust arm too
Hi Marc,
As usual great ideas and demonstration. I have most of those ideas on my table saw and they work superbly and safely. The Jessem's avoid me because of the cost. However, feather boards off a t-track on the top of the fence do a great job coupled with a side featherboard to hold everything down and on the fence.
Sorry, but why do so many people forget that Magswitches can be used in stacks of jigs.... you can take them out and move them around? I have a range of them for all sorts of jigs and they are a one off cost for multiple solutions.
Even the Sawstop overhead dust collection arm works great on my tablesaw.
Thanks again.
Great ideas, especially the extrusion fence... Thanks a lot for the advice.
Definitely going to add All of these Awesome tips to dress up my SawStop. Thank you as Always Marc!
Interesting video! Like a lot of hobby woodworkers, I find the very desirable Woodpecker attachments, gadgets , etc. priced out of common sense range but you find ways to bypass the originals and save money AND make them work!! Appreciate your ingenuity. Keep it up!!
Nice video. Along these lines, may I suggest a video comparing after-market table saw fences? I thought your miter gauge video was excellent - but I tend to get more frustrated with the out-of-box fence on my Delta contractor table saw. It's not bad per se - just fiddly!
Man, Todd nailed the edit. Love the American flag overlay on the drill index, etc.
Great video Marc, always great to see clever ways to optimize the table saw, and even better when someone presents a detailed way to do it! I have the ICS model, and also experimented with ways to improve the table top dust collection. In my experience, connecting a Festool CT26 directly to the port on the blade guard did not significantly improve dust collection as compared to the SS overarm thing...though I did change the "Y" connection at the saws 4 inch port so the airflow from the 2 inch hose was now towards the DC (Oneida V3000)... I don't have an air flow meter, so it may well be that the CT26 did provides more suction, but it did not result in enough of an improvement for me to dedicate it to the saw. Also, did I see some "dots" in the background for the "Origin" CNC machine??? If you review that, please address how it can be used (if it indeed can...) without first mastering a CAD program.. Thanks again for the video!
Great suggestions once again Marc! Almost done with my Roubo! Love my Sawstop as well...going to try some of these ideas.
Nice upgrades! Yes, dust collection on the SawStop is exceptional when both the cabinet port and blade guard dust ports are used! And despite other prominent YT'ers saying it wouldn't work well for machines like table saws and planers, my dust collection system is powered by a large shop-vac with key fob remote control and works very well on all my machines except the chop saw.
My solution to the blade guard dust port is a mini shop-vac sitting on the extension table...for now. I've been thinking about hanging it from the ceiling to get it completely out of the way, but I rarely cut sheet goods, so it's seldom in the way. Only downside is it wouldn't be controlled by remote (it's now now either). Nice build on the DIY overarm, but I don't think I'd like any type of overarm system.
I may have to go with the aluminum fence though! I've noticed my fence isn't PERFECTLY straight, or square to the table for that matter, which was frustrating when I built a spline jig a couple weeks back.
I screwed a cabinet door handle onto the main rail endcap and I store the allen wrenches in there. A drawer would be even better!
Thanks for a great video!
9:04 - Some lubricant on the tap is a Real Good Ideal. For that matter, using a tap wrench and doing it by hand isn't a bad idea. I was taught to reverse the direction a bit every half-rotation or so, but that seems to have gone out of fashion.
Coincidentally I am heading to the store to buy my new saw this morning. Thanks for the great ideas.
Thanks for this. I was intrigued by your aluminum fence but was afraid that it would interfere with my stock guides.
Great idea with the strut Marc! Weird seeing it not made out of wood, but totally makes sense.
Some great ideas to try with my new Sawstop, i particularity like the overhead pipe setup.
Great tips, Marc. I especially like the Cremona reference. I still have my board buddies that I use whenever I'm ripping.
Bill
I made me a solid surface fence for my sawstop soon after getting it, stock fence was not too flat.
Jessem stock guides👍. Outstanding for older saws with no riving knife (or usable kickback pawls). The wheels roll only one way to counter (prevent?) kickback. Extrusion fence face is an interesting idea! Speaking of fences, a replacement fence is probably a first consideration for those older saws. Thanks for the ideas.
The Wood Whisperer talks to Table Saws! What a great video!!! I like all of your table saw enhancements. Also, you can use the unistrut for custom storage solution also. Would like to get your thoughts pro and cons of adding a digital measurement device to a table saw.
I love the Jessum guides, have them on my old saw (no riving knife) and it is a game changer in my instance.
Sweet Marc! Will definitely check these upgrades out.
I like the cauliflower piece. Didn't know about that option. Thanks! 🤠✌
I bought the Colliflower inserts based on your recommendation. Solid parts and the fit really well. Jake Colliflower was very responsive to my questions too.
Awesome. I did very similar thing last year, only welded up a bracket and box tubing. Yours looks just as good ! I used a section of straight shop vac extension tube to a hose. Love the material you picked it's sturdy. Love the U-bolt idea. I am using a velcro strap to park it. AND ...I need to use your extrusion idea !
Nice video, good tips. Especially like the tip about adding the extrusion face to the fence.
Thanks for watching!
I appreciate that you didn’t just name off a bunch of off the shelf crap to make a video
Great stuff! I have an almost identical dust collection configuration on my saw stop - works very well.
Very Professional and to the point. Great work sir.
Ooooooh I like that zero clearance insert. I have not seen that before but what a great idea!. I'm going to check that out! Thank you.
You are correct, sliding on the tee track to the fence is/was a bear. Also, the design for the screws is not great! Great Video. So, I now have the tee track installed and the jessum Clear Cut guides.
This is great timing cause I'm about to buy my own sawstop!!
Mark I put my floating over arm on a Y off a single 4 inch drop. One to the cabinet and one to the overarm. On the Floating overarm I am pulling close to 600 cfm at the end of the tube.
Woodpeckers rip flip is another great accessory to have, it lets you micro adjust your fence!
Woodcraft and Infinity have sales on the Jessem saw guides from time to time. I saved $60 the last time they were in sale. Also, if you do decided to mount them using wood and mag switches just done screw the magswitch down and you can use them on other jigs as well. A person could just plain the word strip to the exact thickness of the magswitch and the lip on the mag switch holds the wood strip down.
Edit: don’t screw the mag switches down. For some reason I cannot edit a post on RUclips using my iPad.
I found a used SS Overhead Vacuum assy on CR and hook it to a separate Shop Vac which is operated automatically activated switch. It works fantastically!
I have had the Jessum accessory for a couple of years now and I did the attach to some 3/4 inch Baltic Birch and use 2 mag switches and it works perfectly. I am going to switch to the aluminum extrusion fence so I can add the sacrificial fences and other accessories you showed and I have a shop vac I'm not using that much and will add that to my over arm suction. thanks for the tips!
Maaaan, never thought about just using my fence to attach stop block for cross cuts - my fence already has T slots too- ty sir 😎
I just used strut to hang my dust collector but I didn't think about using it for the table saw dust collection. I have a 1944 Unisaw, dust collection wasnt exactly built in... If I can find a blade guard to retrofit I'm going to do copy your idea. Thanks for the video.
I purchased the extruded aluminum fence shown in the video and had difficulty securing it to the saw stop fence. The screws shown aligned exactly with the large part of the keyhole slot. They could not be tightened to secure the two fence pieces. I used a pair of needle nose plier to thread a washer on the screw before attaching the oval nut. Took some finagling but got her on their. Also I tried using a single sheet of paper thickness and it felt like it was dragging. When I doubled it up by folding it in half worked like a charm.
Thanks for this. I'm having the exact same problem. The fence pops off when I lower it to just above the table.
In the interest of efficiency and simplicity you could have run a hard pipe all the way to the end of your bracket. The corrugated hose adds feet of restriction compared to a smooth lined pipe. It looks like you could have had about 3' of hose compared to the 10 or so feet you did use.
Too many people go crazy with hose when it is only needed for the small flexible connection between machine and hard pipe.
To further simplify and efficienify you could simply do away with the bracket and drop a pipe/hose down from the ceiling since that is where the dust collection system already is. Just a few feet compared to the many feet and bracketry of the saw mounted system.
Pretty nice upgrades, dude! 😃
Thanks for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Have you done a video on where to source lumber for things like books shelves, furniture, etc... just general non-construction lumber? This is what I'm having a major problem doing and it's really impacting my desire to attempt larger projects
Nice tips, I especially like the 3rd party insert plate
Hey you ever think about building a custom cabinet under the wing of the saw for storage… it’s really convenient and looks awesome but I’d like to see what to come up with
The Jessem guides are the best accessory I've ever bought for any tool. I agonized over spending the money for a long time. After using them, I am still lamenting not buying them immediately.
Great video and suggestions ... i have the Jessem guide, going to add the others as it makes a lots of sense, thanks for sharing productive tips.
6:11 "Blammo" - That was a nice Blammo moment.
I looked into getting a fence rail drawer for my Biesemeyer fence and found someone on Ebay selling 18 inch or 36 inch long drawers that fit Biesemeyer rails for $ 25 or $ 30. I ordered some 18 inch ones and will see how they are.
Years ago, I spray painted my bandsaw table flat black because the glare was a distraction when making small tight cuts. Btw, I make small drawers out of sheet aluminum repurposed from an old aluminum awning by bending it into a U shape and tacking in thin wood ends. Might try making a drawer for my table saw void, if I can figure out what to stored in there 🤔.
For my over arm dust I purchased a used whole house vacuum and connecting it to my blade guard port (Shark Guard). This coupled with the high volume port connected to the base. The entire setup is turned on & off when the saw is started. It collects most of the dust. Don't forget to run the saw dust through a mini Dust Deputy to extend the life of vac.
A 1/4 HP power feeder is also a great accessory. Especially when you need to rip many long boards. It has a continuous motion into the blade, which avoids the starts and stops when repositioning your hands to push. That eliminates small dings or blade marks that needs to be sanded later. It also keeps your hands away from the blade, holds the boards down and angled toward the fence, and makes the job quicker to finish, as you walk to the output of the saw to remove the board just ripped while ripping another. I made a whole home worth of cabinets for kitchen, laundry and bathrooms and my power feeder was the best accessory investment I've ever made. MagSwitch has magnets and plans to make a base for power feeders. Although it's designed for mini 1/8HP power feeders, I was able to add two more 235# MagSwitch magnets in addition to the two ~1100# magnets that come with the kit. I've also used the power feeder on my built in router table on the table saw. Power feeders are best used on cabinet table saws with cast iron tops.
Hello. That sounds interesting. Can you recommend a brand and/or model of a power feeder? Thanks.
@@dngriffiths8105 I bought a Steff 2032. 1/4HP and around 80 pounds. Lots of other choices for 1/4HP feeders.
@@bobbray9666 Thanks, Bob.
Thanks Marc, I have a similar aluminum fence (Woodpecker Supertrack) on my Delta T2 Fence, but havent taken advantage of too many attachments for it yet. I ordered the hardware you linked to add any sacrificial fence small, tall whatever. I can also use them on my miter gauge since it has an aluminum extrusion Powertech fence as well. The fence you linked looks awesome, I would have just purchased that. Comes in a lot of sizes. Thanks
Nice video. My trouble is I need to replace the entire table saw first. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
I just wanna say, man that painting inside a cardboard box is genius
I love the more laid back not sponsored Marc. He's a refreshing cup of joe.
Isn't he still sponsored by tightbond?
@@janitorbob2008 never let the truth get in the way of a good story
Good information. I realize that I'm something of a dinosaur in that my table saw is a 48 year old Delta Contractor's 10 inch. Having said that some of the suggestions that you make can be adapted to the Delta, but not all of them. SacrificiaI fences and the like are an interesting project to do on the Delta fence. I have a Ripstrake device that acts as a hold down on the fence that is also probably pushing 45 years old. It requires an add-on to the fence for use. Don't know if anyone else uses the things or not. ZCIs are mostly made from 1/2 laminate flooring at a fraction of the cost of a OEM insert. Dust collection is a FrankenVac system, but I to like the overhead arm idea. Mebbe in the winter I'll get out my DIY Engineer Cap and have at it. Wish I had the time and bucks to invest in a "newer" saw, but the old Delta does what I need and want to do.
I need to get that last Jessum upgrade
Couple more things to think about: woodpeckers rip flip plus a DRO. With that setup you get almost perfect repeatability with stops and micro adjust. It’s got many of the advantages of the Incra fence system but also stays out of the way. I also have the Jessem track permanently attached to my fence and made a little caddy that rides on the fence for the push sticks, etc.
Great upgrades and info as usual, thanks for doing these Marc!
You’re so funny man! I love when you bring the humor home. I like watching your old old videos just for that. Oh yeah the content is good too. 😉
Use a step but for drilling the holes next time. Works so much better and faster than stepping up on drill bits
Yup. Gotta have one though and I currently don't. :)
Thanks I just ordered the zero clearance insert. How did you fit the riving knife with it?
I may try that fence replacement too?
I just started watching but I have to stop to tell you
Get a step bit!! They don’t bind up on sheet metal and you won’t twist your wrist because your bit jammed
I’ll continue now.
I enjoy every little setup tool that you name after Matt lol
Love the Cremona jokes. You had another in the foreclosure video.
The collection my friend
Is flappin' in the wind
😁😁😁😁
Short fence..."I'll call him Cremona" LOL!!!!
After adding the extrusion and sacrificial fence, did you have to lay down new measure tape on the rail?
The screwdriver you used to fully tighten the extrusion to your fence looks pretty snazzy.
I'm surprised your saw didn't come with the "free" overarm dust collection where that whole arm pivots and pops in and out via friction at the end of the table and splices into the main dust collection. Anyhow, wondering if and when you'll opt for the Sliding crosscut table addon. I just got mine a week ago and is awesome especially for large sheets of plywood and bulky large crosscuts of solid wood. I'm building the executive desk now and will try it out trimming the ends of the large table top instead of circle saws and straight edges. Only pita is the need to occasionally remove the miter fence to do ripping wider than 15" to the left of the blade. But that is just as fast as changing from dado to regular blade and brakes :) I think I'm going to try your aluminum fence option and eventually the Jessem guides as I see a need for that often on longer rips.
Funny, but I concocted a similar DIY dust collection rig for my SawStop! Saved a bit of $’s and it worked just fine.
The outfeed table with the black phenolic top and nice wooden border - do you have plans for that or something similar?
Great video, thanks! Is the measuring tape on the fence rail still able to be accurate with the new fence and additional sac fence?
It is.
Great video, I was looking at how you mounted the Jessem guide and at 9:16 in the video it appears that the guides are mounted on the aluminum extrusion. Thanks
“So cute! I think I’ll call him Cremona.” 🤣🤣