I'm a retired forklift mechanic and I used to do the same thing with needlenose pliers. I wish I had a tool like that. It would have made the job easier, especially with small seals like that. This was the first channel I subscribed to years ago and is still my favorite. Other RUclipsrs I watch have said similar things about this channel.
Project Binky is two Englishmen in Shropshire rebuilding a Mini. They cut a lot of metal, then fold it, and weld it into the car. Occasionally they have to use a lathe to machine some metal part. On one of their lathe videos they say, "I hope Adam Booth is not watching." Pinned to the top of the comments is "Oh yes I am." Wonderful community of the best of the best.
A few days after I watched this video, I had a cylinder start leaking on my kubota tractor. This video series helped save me a lot of money by rebuilding them myself instead of buying a new cylinder
I've been looking for 28mm chrome rod and found it at CRC. Thanks for the tip. I told Jake I saw your video and he was stoked you gave them a shoutout!
Always Good To See Something Rebuilt Instead of Just Thrown Away..Especially Now Days where people/Tech mfg's seam the think Every Thing is disposable ..use it for a year or two n jst throw it away & go buy a new one !
Being a heavy duty mechanic I have done countless hydraulic cylinder seals. The small ones such as you just did it’s absolutely helpful to have the seal installers like you showed. It can be done without but it is not easy to do. The proper tool makes is so much easier without damaging the seal. Very nice video series 👍
I worked in a GM factory. The Skilled Trade "Tool Maker" included people who would walk around the factory watching us work. I remember one of them watching me for a half hour. Two days later he brought me a hand tool he had crafted. Suddenly my job was easy. For the first time I ended my shift with out pain. That is how I learned "the proper tool makes is so much easier." I met my wife in that factory. After we were married, she told me, "Always go to the hardware store and buy the proper tool. Never buy a tool unless you need it, but never make-do with the wrong tool."
It'd be fun to see the tractor in action again. Maybe just a minute at the end of a video. Always great to get to watch people who know what they're doing work on things.
I have a kubota tractor, and none are leaking, but I now feel that if one of them starts leaking, I can fix it. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.
Working in my trade for almost 40 years manufacturer’s always taught me the most common failure to oring is a rolled oring during installation We were taught to use a pick or similar tool to install them similar to how you were installing the seals with your ice pick start at the top and using the tool to work the oring down into the oring groove Some orings actually have a painted stripe around the outer edge in order to verify the oring is not rolled and twisted in to position
I work at a shop that built all hydraulic cylinders for fork lifts .We use only use nylon locking crown nuts on the rod ends . Even three stage container stacking lifts
I use petroleum jelly it won't clog valves and it will dissolve in the hydraulic oil. Also the reason there was no oring under or sealing between the piston and rod is because they had a tight fit between the piston and shaft and when tightened up it will seal it self but oring is always a good idea And better than lapped surfaces. Love your work and your shows .
Great job like allways. Thank you vdry much for sharing your videos. Just a small remark about that aditional seal you machined in between the piston and the rod: I'd say that is now overengineered 😉. Even without that aditional seal it would work perfectly. The treads are sealed with the loctite and in betwen the nut and the piston, even if you have a leak, that will be so tiny that it doesnt affect the function at all. You will have much bigger leaks by design betwen chamber A and B of that cylinder on other places. For example over the valve and after some time and wear over the outer piston seal. After all, nicely done but for the function not really necessary.
The way I learned was the pan gets hot when it's on the hot plate. We used water without a thermostat. It is 212 when boiling. Boil the water, turn it off, then throw in the seals. A small piece of wire to fish them out.
Your stuff is a pleasure to watch. Your narration style is calm and soothing, plus of course knowledgeable -- almost like a massage! Good shooting and editing. I liked especially the part at the end where you talk about dealing with the big, tough cylinders where the gland is a bear to get off.
@@flarkel yes I forgot about those, we used to just use old crock pots since they always seem readily available used and are usually cheap crock pots also works well for paint removal on metal door / window hardware, just fill with water throw the hardware in and let it soak
Have 2 leaking cylinders on my grapple bucket for my Takeuchi TL8 CTL (skidsteer). I think I will give this a try in the home shop and see how it turns out. Great videos!
Always like to see the finish product in operation. A put the minors back to work video would be interesting, and satisfying. Thanks again for providing the interesting and entertaining content.
That's what I needed! Great video! I've rebuilt rams before but that one little thing you did clamping them to the table to put the deals on made my job so much easier! Lol It's the little things!
Fantastic video and step-by-step instructions. I used your videos and was able to replace the seals on my LA680 front loader. I especially liked the technique of heating the fluid and warming up the seal. It made installing the seal so much easier. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Great idea about using hot oil to warm up seals. Another useful tool would be o ring picks they help grabbing those seals without marring up too much. Also a bearing driver set that covers a large range of diameters to help if you have to change a cylinder that has a wear bearing.
Something no one seems to have mentioned is that in hydraulics, cleanliness is everything. For that reason I suggest plugging the cylinder inlet and outlet ports once the cylinders have been cleaned internally, before you start assembly. The plugs might blow out when you insert the pistons and rods, but these orifices should be plugged again when assembly is completed.
I learned this from a old aircraft mechanic when rebuilding landing gear hydraulics and struts and if I had that tool I could have shown him a thing or two, now that would really make it easier. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.
Use a small diameter o ring and wrap it around the piston seal, put your finger through the o ring and pull the seal over the piston and into the groove, let one side of the o ring go and pull the o ring out from under the seal. No need for picks or screwdrivers.
That's a cool tool for installing seals. I find a little bit of hydraulic oil on the seals when installing can help a lot to slip them into place, also helps prevent them from scratching on sharp edges. Thanks for the video!
Great job as expected. All your tips and advice throughout this build are just a sample of your workmanship and professionalism. Everytime I watch you turn a piece of steel into a workable finished piece, I just realize that's how it's made. Thanks for always showing what needs to be done to get to your finished piece. Your tips and advice come from years of experience. Can't thank you enough for showing and explaining why you do what you do. I always look forward to you Saturday afternoons.
Coffee cup electric immersion heater in an old cup with hydraulic fluid. Don't accidentally let the seals rest against the element. Don't accidentally drink. Works great.
Some seal manufacturers are okay with using boiling water to heat up the seals. Some of the equipment I work on recommends it. I I got a little electric kettle so I can do seals indoors. Oil is better if the seal will stand it because you can get the temp a little higher, I put the seals on a piece of wire so that you don’t have to fish them out or burn yourself at the end. Then on install, if you have access to nylon bars, you can cut it down so that it is tapered on top and the bottom of the nylon goes up to the edge of the seal groove. Then just rub a lot of oring lube (molykote 55 is my favorite) on the taper and it will slide right on. The real a-hole manufacturers will then force you to resize the oring smaller, they make tools for this but a proper size hose clamp and thick plastic from like a gojo jug works fine. Since you are only doing 4 pieces it’s not worth the effort to make the tools. Always enjoy your hydraulic cylinder videos.
Adam, Another fantastic video, And well done project. You never fail to teach us something every time you post a video. The warmed up oil trick is epic to fighting with tight tolerance seals and o rings. You have become a heck of a teacher Sir.
Adam, make a tapered install cone from nylon or Delrin then use that to gently stretch the seal as you slide it down the cone onto the piston, the bottom of the cone being the same diameter as the piston.
@@millomweb Well all I can say is I have used this method for years without issue. It puts a very even force distributed around the entire seal and never puts any undue stress on one part of the seal. Talk to an automatic transmission rebuilder. Thanks for your reply
I wondered if Adam would use a cone like that, but his method worked fine. Automotive pistons with rings are often installed in cylinder bores by pushing them into hardened inverted cones.
@@ellieprice363 We have a piston ring compressor for that purpose. By having the seal expanded all around the piston, it is stretched all around. Putting it on like a tyre just stretches the last section to go on - the optimum way depends on the length of piston the seal has to travel over - if short, fit like a tyre, if long, fit using a cone or similar.
Yes, I’ve used both types of ring compressors, the can type being the most common. However, in mass production and racing shops hardened inverted cones are preferred over the much slower can type. I first saw them used when I worked for the Holman/Moody Ford racing team in the early sixties.
Another trick I have picked up with installing o-rings is to use wire lacing to install. It adds little to the strech of the o-ring and allows more strength that will not damage the o-ring. Then you just pull the lacing out when you get the o-ring installed.
I have that seal installer tool I find that on smaller cylinders it’s handy but on big stuff like 100mm rods or bigger it’s better with your fingers. That seal will just constantly flip because they are so big for those tools.
If you used a large washer between the clamp and the piston ,offset over the edge of the piston ,it would hold one side of the seal in place as you mount the other side of the seal. I would also put the piston back in the hot oil after fitting the seal. Most polymers will not fully relax back to their original size if they are softened with heat ,stretched and allowed to cool in a stretched state. They need to be reheated to allow them to relax. This is how heat shrink materials are made. If you heat a soda bottle it will shrink back towards it's original size.
Hi Adam, nice job. 1.But the rods can easily be saved without buying new ones. 2. You can heat up all sealings (Teflon, Ceramic…) in an oven to expand, but you have to reset them to the right dimension with special grips and cool them down. 3. Assembling the sealings, o-rings, wipers… always with oil not dry. Never use a screwdriver or something like that (nothing itchy or scratchy). 4. To assemble all parts use hydraulic oil not the coloured grease. You can use additional a Lithium- Grease for bigger parts. 5. You should use a copperbased grease for screwing the cylinder. 6. Please never push and pull a dry rod (the grease will set into the honed cylinder after inches) . 7. Finally you should mark the cylinder screw with a punchmark to control that it will be sitting well (they get hot). Just a few hints from a pro who made thousands of them…not only this simple ones. For more info just ask, always a pleasure to watch your channel. 👍🙋♂️
They make plastic cones that slip over the pistons. They let you put a little oil on the cone and safely stretch the rings just enough to go over the pistons. I worked as a automatic transmission mechanic for about 8 years with my dad. I used them all the time especially on hard Teflon seals. I am sure you should be able to order some from CRC.
I used warm water on a hot plate. Around 180 degrees was perfect. Our shop had a shop made hydraulic piston nut bench. Some of the excavator cylinders had crazy torque up to 25,000 foot pounds on the rod nut. That hydraulic wrench was slow but it either loosened or twisted off. Most times the rod was gouged, nicked or bent.
I have a big old crockpot in my garage for this filled with straight 30W oil. I use it for motorcycle chains too. Works great. when it gets dirty I use rags to filter it.
The best piston seals are the zero gap split Cat style. No stretching the seal ring over the piston. The seal stretcher from Hercules works really well to install non split seal rings and their banding tool the sell helps bring them back for install. The installer is a must for small bores especially those heavy durometer rod seals
Did a Ford 7208 loader cylinder yesterday and I used hot water to easily get the sealing ring on the piston. Then I stuck the piston in the freezer and the seal went right back to size. I was probably at 200 deg. but it made it much easier to install. I think oil would be better. The Ford cylinder packing is much more complicated than that one you are working on though.
I'm a retired forklift mechanic and I used to do the same thing with needlenose pliers.
I wish I had a tool like that. It would have made the job easier, especially with small seals like that.
This was the first channel I subscribed to years ago and is still my favorite.
Other RUclipsrs I watch have said similar things about this channel.
Project Binky is two Englishmen in Shropshire rebuilding a Mini. They cut a lot of metal, then fold it, and weld it into the car. Occasionally they have to use a lathe to machine some metal part. On one of their lathe videos they say, "I hope Adam Booth is not watching." Pinned to the top of the comments is "Oh yes I am." Wonderful community of the best of the best.
A few days after I watched this video, I had a cylinder start leaking on my kubota tractor. This video series helped save me a lot of money by rebuilding them myself instead of buying a new cylinder
I always love seeing the old pic of you at the end of your vids. Great tribute to the men who helped you become who you are.
Always amazed those seals tolerate being folded during installation. Those seal install assist tools are pretty slick.
And to cycle it sealing surface thousands of times under stress without an immediate failure
I've been looking for 28mm chrome rod and found it at CRC. Thanks for the tip. I told Jake I saw your video and he was stoked you gave them a shoutout!
Always Good To See Something Rebuilt Instead of Just Thrown Away..Especially Now Days where people/Tech mfg's seam the think Every Thing is disposable ..use it for a year or two n jst throw it away & go buy a new one !
A master class on installing o rings and seals
Didn't knew there was a Special thread for those caps. Thanks for teaching us so much every single time
I wasn't aware of the thread either.
As an aircraft mechanic, I have resealed hydraulic cylinders many times. Your practices and procedures are spot on. Good job.
Adam, passionate, focused and knowledgeable about his work. Great filming. Fun to watch .
Being a heavy duty mechanic I have done countless hydraulic cylinder seals. The small ones such as you just did it’s absolutely helpful to have the seal installers like you showed. It can be done without but it is not easy to do. The proper tool makes is so much easier without damaging the seal. Very nice video series 👍
I remember the days before I knew about this tool, small attachment cylinders with 1.25” ID killed my fingers.
I worked in a GM factory. The Skilled Trade "Tool Maker" included people who would walk around the factory watching us work. I remember one of them watching me for a half hour. Two days later he brought me a hand tool he had crafted. Suddenly my job was easy. For the first time I ended my shift with out pain. That is how I learned "the proper tool makes is so much easier." I met my wife in that factory. After we were married, she told me, "Always go to the hardware store and buy the proper tool. Never buy a tool unless you need it, but never make-do with the wrong tool."
It'd be fun to see the tractor in action again. Maybe just a minute at the end of a video.
Always great to get to watch people who know what they're doing work on things.
With orange paint on the rod eyes!
Dobra robota i ładny czysty warsztat z przyjemnością się pana ogląda pozdrowienia z POLSKI
I have a kubota tractor, and none are leaking, but I now feel that if one of them starts leaking, I can fix it. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.
first time I saw that tool at work I was slack-jawed. My coworker laughed his ass off!
Working in my trade for almost 40 years manufacturer’s always taught me the most common failure to oring is a rolled oring during installation
We were taught to use a pick or similar tool to install them similar to how you were installing the seals with your ice pick start at the top and using the tool to work the oring down into the oring groove
Some orings actually have a painted stripe around the outer edge in order to verify the oring is not rolled and twisted in to position
nice trick with heating the oil to soften up the seals
Thanks for a clear demo of the use of that Kit King tool. Happy I saw this before using one for the first time.
I work at a shop that built all hydraulic cylinders for fork lifts .We use only use nylon locking crown nuts on the rod ends .
Even three stage container stacking lifts
I have two Kubota tractors, now I know more about them. Thanks!
Man living in the midwest I never seem to get cylinders apart that easy
It’s satisfying to watch Adam work. It must be very satisfying for him to obtain such a result.
Great tip about using putty to get accurate caliper measurements! Excellent video series. Thanks for all you do!
Crazy how those seals can hold that kinda pressure
I use petroleum jelly it won't clog valves and it will dissolve in the hydraulic oil. Also the reason there was no oring under or sealing between the piston and rod is because they had a tight fit between the piston and shaft and when tightened up it will seal it self but oring is always a good idea And better than lapped surfaces. Love your work and your shows .
Great job like allways. Thank you vdry much for sharing your videos.
Just a small remark about that aditional seal you machined in between the piston and the rod: I'd say that is now overengineered 😉. Even without that aditional seal it would work perfectly. The treads are sealed with the loctite and in betwen the nut and the piston, even if you have a leak, that will be so tiny that it doesnt affect the function at all. You will have much bigger leaks by design betwen chamber A and B of that cylinder on other places. For example over the valve and after some time and wear over the outer piston seal. After all, nicely done but for the function not really necessary.
It helps to warm all the seals when installing hydraulic seals. Nice job.
The way I learned was the pan gets hot when it's on the hot plate. We used water without a thermostat. It is 212 when boiling. Boil the water, turn it off, then throw in the seals. A small piece of wire to fish them out.
Ordered a shirt yesterday and here within a minute of uploading today. I'm on a roll
Thanks for the tips and tricks of getting the seals to pop-in.
fun to watch and gives me enough info to tackle cylinder reseal on our old tractor with more ease ...
Your stuff is a pleasure to watch. Your narration style is calm and soothing, plus of course knowledgeable -- almost like a massage! Good shooting and editing. I liked especially the part at the end where you talk about dealing with the big, tough cylinders where the gland is a bear to get off.
Great job as always! My OCD is screaming for that paint to be completely removed 😂
Adam go to a thrift store or yard sale and pick up a used crock pot, works great for heating oil for what you are doing
Or one of those perfumed wax heater things
@@flarkel yes I forgot about those, we used to just use old crock pots since they always seem readily available used and are usually cheap
crock pots also works well for paint removal on metal door / window hardware, just fill with water throw the hardware in and let it soak
Dad always had an electric skillet he used for things like that in the shop. Handy for bearings too.
Have 2 leaking cylinders on my grapple bucket for my Takeuchi TL8 CTL (skidsteer). I think I will give this a try in the home shop and see how it turns out. Great videos!
I had forgotten all about preheating them but when I was young I remember seeing someone using a small crockpot.
Thanks for the excellent details on rebuilding the cylinders.
excellent information and instructions. Quality craftsmanship. The additional O ring on the piston is a wonderful addition.
Always like to see the finish product in operation. A put the minors back to work video would be interesting, and satisfying. Thanks again for providing the interesting and entertaining content.
That's what I needed! Great video!
I've rebuilt rams before but that one little thing you did clamping them to the table to put the deals on made my job so much easier! Lol
It's the little things!
Noting like a nice tight seal around your rod
The authority on the correct way to do machining operations.
Fantastic video and step-by-step instructions. I used your videos and was able to replace the seals on my LA680 front loader. I especially liked the technique of heating the fluid and warming up the seal. It made installing the seal so much easier. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
I like how you say "our weld bead away from the wiper." Makes me feel like I helped you repair them...😁😜
Congrats on half a million subs Adam!
Small electric coffee cup warmer plate and cup heats seals perfect
EXCELLENT VIDEO! USING THAT GREASE IS THE WAY TO GO AND THE WARMING OD THE SEALS IS SMART, THANKS
Along with warming the seals in oil you can also put the pistons in the freezer for a few hours and that helps too.
Great idea about using hot oil to warm up seals.
Another useful tool would be o ring picks they help grabbing those seals without marring up too much.
Also a bearing driver set that covers a large range of diameters to help if you have to change a cylinder that has a wear bearing.
Something no one seems to have mentioned is that in hydraulics, cleanliness is everything. For that reason I suggest plugging the cylinder inlet and outlet ports once the cylinders have been cleaned internally, before you start assembly. The plugs might blow out when you insert the pistons and rods, but these orifices should be plugged again when assembly is completed.
I learned this from a old aircraft mechanic when rebuilding landing gear hydraulics and struts and if I had that tool I could have shown him a thing or two, now that would really make it easier. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.
Use a small diameter o ring and wrap it around the piston seal, put your finger through the o ring and pull the seal over the piston and into the groove, let one side of the o ring go and pull the o ring out from under the seal. No need for picks or screwdrivers.
That's a cool tool for installing seals. I find a little bit of hydraulic oil on the seals when installing can help a lot to slip them into place, also helps prevent them from scratching on sharp edges. Thanks for the video!
Great job as expected. All your tips and advice throughout this build are just a sample of your workmanship and professionalism. Everytime I watch you turn a piece of steel into a workable finished piece, I just realize that's how it's made. Thanks for always showing what needs to be done to get to your finished piece. Your tips and advice come from years of experience. Can't thank you enough for showing and explaining why you do what you do. I always look forward to you Saturday afternoons.
Jimmy's ice-pick comes in useful quite often for me. Cool to see you got one too.
Coffee cup electric immersion heater in an old cup with hydraulic fluid. Don't accidentally let the seals rest against the element. Don't accidentally drink. Works great.
Some seal manufacturers are okay with using boiling water to heat up the seals. Some of the equipment I work on recommends it. I
I got a little electric kettle so I can do seals indoors.
Oil is better if the seal will stand it because you can get the temp a little higher, I put the seals on a piece of wire so that you don’t have to fish them out or burn yourself at the end.
Then on install, if you have access to nylon bars, you can cut it down so that it is tapered on top and the bottom of the nylon goes up to the edge of the seal groove. Then just rub a lot of oring lube (molykote 55 is my favorite) on the taper and it will slide right on. The real a-hole manufacturers will then force you to resize the oring smaller, they make tools for this but a proper size hose clamp and thick plastic from like a gojo jug works fine.
Since you are only doing 4 pieces it’s not worth the effort to make the tools. Always enjoy your hydraulic cylinder videos.
Adam, Another fantastic video, And well done project. You never fail to teach us something every time you post a video. The warmed up oil trick is epic to fighting with tight tolerance seals and o rings. You have become a heck of a teacher Sir.
I like the warning about pipe wrenches and chain wrenches.
I always replaced seals with Viton seals. They take a much higher temperature, upwards to 400 degrees.
Very good idea heating them in an oil bath.
Adam: "Отличная работа!" Russian for "Outstanding work." Thanks for the video. Sorry you weren't at the Bar-Z this year. Jon
I use a little electric fry daddy. When you're done put the lid on and set it in the corner works really cool
Fry Daddy's are awesome!
Excellent video series.
Thank you sir.
Another excellent project series. Well produced and edited video with great sound.
Adam, make a tapered install cone from nylon or Delrin then use that to gently stretch the seal as you slide it down the cone onto the piston, the bottom of the cone being the same diameter as the piston.
That could potentially stretch it more then putting it on like a tyre !
@@millomweb Well all I can say is I have used this method for years without issue. It puts a very even force distributed around the entire seal and never puts any undue stress on one part of the seal. Talk to an automatic transmission rebuilder. Thanks for your reply
I wondered if Adam would use a cone like that, but his method worked fine. Automotive pistons with rings are often installed in cylinder bores by pushing them into hardened inverted cones.
@@ellieprice363 We have a piston ring compressor for that purpose.
By having the seal expanded all around the piston, it is stretched all around. Putting it on like a tyre just stretches the last section to go on - the optimum way depends on the length of piston the seal has to travel over - if short, fit like a tyre, if long, fit using a cone or similar.
Yes, I’ve used both types of ring compressors, the can type being the most common. However, in mass production and racing shops hardened inverted cones are preferred over the much slower can type. I first saw them used when I worked for the Holman/Moody Ford racing team in the early sixties.
As always a very nice job Adam.
Wow! a tool for every job.
Thank you Adam I enjoy learning and watching your wonderful videos I am from South Africa
Dang it that was fun Adam! Zen of oleo strut refurb. Thanks from Rocket City.
Отличная работа!
I use an electric skillet for warming oil and also as a bearing heater. Works great.
Great job Adam. Awesome video and a great help
Nice work Adam...
Looks like they are nice and smooth! Nice work, Adam!
Thanks for sharing! Great follow up !
Sehr gut mach weiter so!!👍👍
better than factory for sure!
Another trick I have picked up with installing o-rings is to use wire lacing to install. It adds little to the strech of the o-ring and allows more strength that will not damage the o-ring. Then you just pull the lacing out when you get the o-ring installed.
Interesting technique!
I have that seal installer tool I find that on smaller cylinders it’s handy but on big stuff like 100mm rods or bigger it’s better with your fingers. That seal will just constantly flip because they are so big for those tools.
Fine Sealmanship!
we always used a fry-daddy with hydraulic oil in it to heat seals or bearings. you could set the temp to what ever you wanted
nicely done, sir. solid series!
Loving this content. one of my favorite channels. Thanks for uploading
This is fantastic! I am hoping I can do the same thing with my grandfather's 1975 Craftsman floor jack.
_Nice outro music!_ 🎵👍
I’d like to see you rebuild some giant cylinders!
If you used a large washer between the clamp and the piston ,offset over the edge of the piston ,it would hold one side of the seal in place as you mount the other side of the seal.
I would also put the piston back in the hot oil after fitting the seal. Most polymers will not fully relax back to their original size if they are softened with heat ,stretched and allowed to cool in a stretched state. They need to be reheated to allow them to relax. This is how heat shrink materials are made.
If you heat a soda bottle it will shrink back towards it's original size.
Hi Adam, nice job. 1.But the rods can easily be saved without buying new ones. 2. You can heat up all sealings (Teflon, Ceramic…) in an oven to expand, but you have to reset them to the right dimension with special grips and cool them down. 3. Assembling the sealings, o-rings, wipers… always with oil not dry. Never use a screwdriver or something like that (nothing itchy or scratchy). 4. To assemble all parts use hydraulic oil not the coloured grease. You can use additional a Lithium- Grease for bigger parts. 5. You should use a copperbased grease for screwing the cylinder. 6. Please never push and pull a dry rod (the grease will set into the honed cylinder after inches) . 7. Finally you should mark the cylinder screw with a punchmark to control that it will be sitting well (they get hot). Just a few hints from a pro who made thousands of them…not only this simple ones. For more info just ask, always a pleasure to watch your channel. 👍🙋♂️
shut up, Abom knows what he is doing
Outstanding job 👍
Awesome work Adam
They make plastic cones that slip over the pistons. They let you put a little oil on the cone and safely stretch the rings just enough to go over the pistons. I worked as a automatic transmission mechanic for about 8 years with my dad. I used them all the time especially on hard Teflon seals. I am sure you should be able to order some from CRC.
14:40 You hear that click? Thats torqued to 1 Abom.
I used warm water on a hot plate. Around 180 degrees was perfect. Our shop had a shop made hydraulic piston nut bench. Some of the excavator cylinders had crazy torque up to 25,000 foot pounds on the rod nut. That hydraulic wrench was slow but it either loosened or twisted off. Most times the rod was gouged, nicked or bent.
Those "nut busters" are awesome. They make hydraulic repair so much easier, especially the large bore stuff.
You are using the best Thermometer for that. I use Thermoworks products for checking bearing temps, smoking meats, grilling, and deep frying.
I have a big old crockpot in my garage for this filled with straight 30W oil. I use it for motorcycle chains too. Works great. when it gets dirty I use rags to filter it.
Great series
Helpful and informative as always!
The best piston seals are the zero gap split Cat style. No stretching the seal ring over the piston. The seal stretcher from Hercules works really well to install non split seal rings and their banding tool the sell helps bring them back for install. The installer is a must for small bores especially those heavy durometer rod seals
Nice work!
Did a Ford 7208 loader cylinder yesterday and I used hot water to easily get the sealing ring on the piston. Then I stuck the piston in the freezer and the seal went right back to size. I was probably at 200 deg. but it made it much easier to install. I think oil would be better. The Ford cylinder packing is much more complicated than that one you are working on though.
You made that look easy.