I really enjoy the fact that you fix and restore these old machines and devises BUT also explain what and how you are doing. Very educational for your views. Thank you.
I don't think the average (non-machinist) person can appreciate how likely it is to get chatter when cutting an acme with a diam/length ratio of that screw. You did a great job Keith👍
Another job well done I'm retired now but there are not many manual machnist around like you and like I used to be love watching a real machinist at work love that marvel band saw had 2 of them when I had my shop nothing can compare to them even after 100 years in my opinion great job keep up the great work
The small hole in the shaft is there for a retaining pin used to hold a spring under compression against the movable jaw as it moves in the open direction.
Sand paper between the back jaw and the part helps. In my vid on the curt/grizzly comparo I learned that there is an Allen set screw that holds a little-bit of pre-load on the clamp-down block under the movable jaw. If it's loose, the rear jaw will lift up when tightened...until you apply drill pressure. The flimsier the vise, the more pronounced the effect. The Kurt is so stiff, when compared to the Grizzly, that all unintended effects are minimized.
Thanks for sharing,We used to make vise screws in High School for the various shops . We used cold rolled and they always broke. the teacher said we should use something better but if we made the too good, they wouldn't break and that means we wouldn't have them to make . What did you use for material ?
Looking forward to the vise jaw vid. How will Kieth cut the grooves. We get to see the Hot Shot put through it's paces in the hardening/tempering operations.
I remember the 8" dia. x 8 ft. long Acme threaded shaft I turned on a huge Monarch lathe. Being threaded the entire length, it would warp with about 1/8" of run out after each pass. Lots of cleanup spring passes on that one!
@@philipmackin1025 Follow rest attaches to the carriage, sits opposite of the cutter, and follows it down the work. The carriage is perfectly following the threads, so the follow rest just rides them perfectly too.
I use premium cutting fluid for 4-40, 6-32, 10-32 and 1/4-20 for drilling and taping, with a battery powered hand drill and Keith drills a 7/8' hole dry. I don't get it. (I'm a mechanic, not a machinist.) Ron W4BIN
@@MHolt3573 I don't know where this idea that you need to step up drills came from but the internet loves it and it's the best way to break drills. The only time you need to step up drills is when the machine doesn't have the power to turn it. If you have enough machine you can drill 3" in steel without as much as a pilot, let alone stepping up drills, I have done it many times.
That’s pretty cool. Looks like magic. I picked up a Craftsman 12x 36 last month pretty cheap. Need to go over everything and buy some tooling Any recommendations on books to get started? I’ll be making parts for my vintage garden tractors
I notice you keep the vice on the marvel all the way to the back. I kept mine up to the front as it is much easier to use with out reaching and bending over.
Watching the 7/8 drill it seems like it has a lot of run-out? Is there a spec on allowable run-out on a twist drill? I have spent the better part of this morning trying to find a spec with no luck. I am very much an amateur machinist so maybe I'm missing something. However, I have some brad-point drills that I think are crazy bad and I'd like to measure.
I don't know either but I guess that drill easily had 10 to 50 times more than desired for precision jobs 😬🤦♂️ From my experience it was probably one of these cheap imported short drills with reduced shank, I'm from Spain and here one of that size made in China can be bought for about €4 while one of the same size of European manufacture costs at least 4 or 5 times more. I think those cheap drills warp during the heat treatment and they can't ground them straight afterwards because they made them just the right diameter from the start so they can't remove more material, also those reduced shanks are easy to bend. I use those for drilling holes for bolts because they already make the hole with a bit of clearance wihtouth having to use the next size and also I don't get so upset if they break 😁
A follower rest would have had a hard time negotiating the back side of the thread. Brass tips would have had problems. Needle bearing tips would have had problems unless you could dial in the correct caster following angle. I've never seen that design yet. Was there enough 1" shaft to the right of the head to choke up on the thread base in the scroll chuck? The other option would have been a sequence-of-operation dodge where the 1" section between the thread and the hub was cut last.
A follower rest with wide contact jaws would work as long as the initial burrs from the first passes are filed off. However it worked pretty good without a rear support.
I'm always a bit worried about "waiting for the number to come around" to start the next thread cut. Doesn;t this introduce a human error in the positioning of the cut? How much?
Actually it’s not as hard as it looks. If you close the lever on or slightly after the number the half nut will drop in easily without error. After a few tries you’ll quickly learn exactly when to engage it.
@@ellieprice363 Ah, I think I see - unless you choose a "completely" wrong number the half nut won't drop in? So the cut must always happen at the same position? (As you can probably tell, I'm not a machinist!)
it was clearly too tight in the middle where the deflection is at its most severe. but as RUclips goes , it's always right on the number and to the correct depth. I'm certain you took a few more spring passes.
@@WhatAboutTheBee This raises an interesting question about cutting thread to fit worn nut versus cut to spec. I know (as I recall) that this was intended to repair something with sentimental value I wonder how close to spec the threads wound up.
@@robertbamford8266 Likely not to spec, but to the part, as you say. A good die can be adjusted for fit as well, so I do think the end user can tinker for proper fitment.
I suspect that as well. At least I wouldn't want that much wobble in a vice I was fixing up. Yes you want nice clearance so it slides easy but that would be excessive. Good thing is that it can be "fixed" by using larger stock for the handle.
I agree 1/8" is a lot of clearance. The hole is located closely to the end as well. Not a lot of meat left there. I would have moved the hole to be closer to center mass.
@@ruben_balea I agree, in part. To appear as the old one is, the replacement needs to have the same wallowed out hole of the original, not a fresh round one. I am not being critical of Keith for doing it this way, just stating my opinion
Keith, you should tell your less experienced viewers to make sure that they zero out the “ Z” axis as well as the “Y” axis when taking a reading on both sides of the shaft. Just in case you are not exactly on the center of the diameter.
Keith - did you say and mean 30 deg? Isn’t ACME 29 or is that a feature of the stub version? I only had on e cup of coffee while watching so I may not have heard you right. Mike
Hello I'm an mechanical engineer.. And a laboratory supervisor of college of engineering here in the Philippines. I want to learn more about.. Shaper lathe and milling machines.. Can u guide me or share a knowledge about those machines.?
Hi Joseph. Keith almost never responds here in the comments. It is unclear to me what part of the machines you want to learn. If it is the operation, then you will need a practical trade school to teach you machining, literally speeds and feeds. If you want to learn about the theory, it is material science and shear. If your goal is to be able to better supervise staff, then management courses are better suited than trying to compete with a skilled worker in his area of expertise. I don't know if that was any help. [Source: degreed engineer here]
I wonder--assuming you were a billionaire hobbyist of course!--if it would be possible to buy absolutely brand new lathes and milling machines? Or do they simply not make them any more because Computer Assisted Manufacturing has completely taken over?
New manual lathes and mills are still being produced. Check out the Abom79 channel. Adam recently bought one of each brand new. No need to be a millionaire, but deep pockets or good credit is helpful.
@@BrianEltherington I did watch quite a few of ABom's videos a year or two ago--a really good, educational You Tuber although he does tend to focus on projects I am not myself primarily interested in. I certainly recommend him for anyone who enjoys Keith's videos. I will go and have a look at his new lathe though!!!
I was learning to cut internal Acme threads in school today. I did the external threads for the bolt yesterday.
I really enjoy the fact that you fix and restore these old machines and devises BUT also explain what and how you are doing. Very educational for your views. Thank you.
Noting like a good old acme thread cutting video, at 7 am on a saturday morning! I feel recharged and ready to start the day! Thanks Keith! 🤩
I don't think the average (non-machinist) person can appreciate how likely it is to get chatter when cutting an acme with a diam/length ratio of that screw. You did a great job Keith👍
Thank you Keith, great lay out for Acme Thread.
Bigger up Mr Keith every days l learn More about you
You make it look so easy! Beautiful finished product!
Another job well done I'm retired now but there are not many manual machnist around like you and like I used to be love watching a real machinist at work love that marvel band saw had 2 of them when I had my shop nothing can compare to them even after 100 years in my opinion great job keep up the great work
1 way to take out the slop in your vise screw, cut a new one to fit not to dimension. Good work Sir!
The small hole in the shaft is there for a retaining pin used to hold a spring under compression against the movable jaw as it moves in the open direction.
Thank you Keith, great lay out for Acme Thread.... :)
That carbide tool does a nice job. I had to grind high speed steel to do inside threads on a large tube that had been welded. It took all day!
The new screw looks too nice use! Great job, well done.
I remember making a three a half-inch triple lead left-hand acme thread while working at pacific valves .308 stainless steel
Nice little project.
That was a great job you done there kieth ,been following for years now never dissatisfied always good stuff thank you
Thanks for sharing!
This was very interesting especially fitting to the nut as needed. Thanks
Good morning Keith
good job keith
Anchor Lube helps a lot when cutting Acme treads.
really leaned some good stuff here, thank you so much Keith, cheers from Orlando, Paul
Great video Keith, keep'um coming..
Another tool saved from the scrappers. Nice custom fit replacement part Keith.
Good Ole Keith🤠
Looks easy thanks for sharing
22:33 when you broke through with the 7/8 your whole assembly moved. Might want to rebuild that vice as well.
Thanks Keith, nice job!
Great video
You did great Keith! God bless!🙏🎚🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
22:31 why did the part move when drilling the 7/8" hole?
Sand paper between the back jaw and the part helps. In my vid on the curt/grizzly comparo I learned that there is an Allen set screw that holds a little-bit of pre-load on the clamp-down block under the movable jaw. If it's loose, the rear jaw will lift up when tightened...until you apply drill pressure. The flimsier the vise, the more pronounced the effect. The Kurt is so stiff, when compared to the Grizzly, that all unintended effects are minimized.
I saw the movement too at 26:16/17.....
Thanks for sharing,We used to make vise screws in High School for the various shops . We used cold rolled and they always broke. the teacher said we should use something better but if we made the too good, they wouldn't break and that means we wouldn't have them to make . What did you use for material ?
Nice job
Thanks for the video your efforts are appreciated🤗😎🤗😎
As a fellow southerner, I love when Kieth uses the millamachine.
I read this comment right as he said it, now I can’t unhear it.
Yeah. That'un ry ther.
Don't forget to use some cuttin oll. (love ya Kieth, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!)
Very nice Keith.
Another Project finished. As always very informative and fun to watch.
Looking forward to the vise jaw vid. How will Kieth cut the grooves. We get to see the Hot Shot put through it's paces in the hardening/tempering operations.
I remember the 8" dia. x 8 ft. long Acme threaded shaft I turned on a huge Monarch lathe. Being threaded the entire length, it would warp with about 1/8" of run out after each pass. Lots of cleanup spring passes on that one!
What type of machine was it used for? Was it secured by a nut or did it screw into something?
why would you no use s follow rest?
@@ionstorm66 You cannot cut a thread with a steady rest in the middle of the shaft.
@@philipmackin1025 Follow rest....
@@philipmackin1025 Follow rest attaches to the carriage, sits opposite of the cutter, and follows it down the work. The carriage is perfectly following the threads, so the follow rest just rides them perfectly too.
I use premium cutting fluid for 4-40, 6-32, 10-32 and 1/4-20 for drilling and taping, with a battery powered hand drill and Keith drills a 7/8' hole dry. I don't get it. (I'm a mechanic, not a machinist.) Ron W4BIN
I've always wondered the same sir. I am a mechanic as well. People always tell me to step the bits and I'm like the machinist on RUclips don't haha.
Ive learned a ton of things from Keith's videos, but when and when not to oil is not one of them.
@@MHolt3573 I don't know where this idea that you need to step up drills came from but the internet loves it and it's the best way to break drills.
The only time you need to step up drills is when the machine doesn't have the power to turn it.
If you have enough machine you can drill 3" in steel without as much as a pilot, let alone stepping up drills, I have done it many times.
I would sure like to see you make a follow rest.
Good job, brother Kieth,,,,,But then all you have to do is look at the part and you can tell that already. 🤣
Muchas gracias maestro por brindarnos sus conocimientos bendiciones para ti y tu familia 👍💪
That’s pretty cool. Looks like magic. I picked up a Craftsman 12x 36 last month pretty cheap. Need to go over everything and buy some tooling Any recommendations on books to get started? I’ll be making parts for my vintage garden tractors
Mr. Pete 222 has many courses on how to run lathes and other machines and there are probably books online as well.
Tom Lipton has two books which are still available, I think Amazon has them. They are not cheap but they are very good.
@@laurieleyden3654 thanks,. i like books better
I notice you keep the vice on the marvel all the way to the back. I kept mine up to the front as it is much easier to use with out reaching and bending over.
Does that screw need to be hardened at all? I assumed all of the vise main screws were
You were calling the final pass that is made with no change to the depth of cut a scratch pass. Did you maybe mean to say ‘spring’ pass?
Watching the 7/8 drill it seems like it has a lot of run-out? Is there a spec on allowable run-out on a twist drill? I have spent the better part of this morning trying to find a spec with no luck. I am very much an amateur machinist so maybe I'm missing something. However, I have some brad-point drills that I think are crazy bad and I'd like to measure.
I don't know either but I guess that drill easily had 10 to 50 times more than desired for precision jobs 😬🤦♂️
From my experience it was probably one of these cheap imported short drills with reduced shank, I'm from Spain and here one of that size made in China can be bought for about €4 while one of the same size of European manufacture costs at least 4 or 5 times more.
I think those cheap drills warp during the heat treatment and they can't ground them straight afterwards because they made them just the right diameter from the start so they can't remove more material, also those reduced shanks are easy to bend.
I use those for drilling holes for bolts because they already make the hole with a bit of clearance wihtouth having to use the next size and also I don't get so upset if they break 😁
A follower rest would have had a hard time negotiating the back side of the thread. Brass tips would have had problems. Needle bearing tips would have had problems unless you could dial in the correct caster following angle. I've never seen that design yet. Was there enough 1" shaft to the right of the head to choke up on the thread base in the scroll chuck? The other option would have been a sequence-of-operation dodge where the 1" section between the thread and the hub was cut last.
A follower rest with wide contact jaws would work as long as the initial burrs from the first passes are filed off. However it worked pretty good without a rear support.
Great video, thanks👌👌😀😀
How come you didn't harden that afterwards? Won't it wear out.
Keith, time to clean your DRO! Great content as always.
I'm always a bit worried about "waiting for the number to come around" to start the next thread cut. Doesn;t this introduce a human error in the positioning of the cut? How much?
There's only 4 of them and it turns pretty slow - yes, you could pick the wrong number, so, don't!
Actually it’s not as hard as it looks. If you close the lever on or slightly after the number the half nut will drop in easily without error. After a few tries you’ll quickly learn exactly when to engage it.
@@ellieprice363 Ah, I think I see - unless you choose a "completely" wrong number the half nut won't drop in? So the cut must always happen at the same position? (As you can probably tell, I'm not a machinist!)
@@hectorpascal the half nuts can still drop in @ a completely wrong number.be careful.
For the 3/8 and 1/2 hole drilling, what rpm? What rpm for 7/8 hole? And why don't you use a cutting fluid when drilling?
Like salt on Steak. Sometimes and then sometimes not. When easy goes, liquid is not "Absolute".
Keith, why not use oil when you drilled the hole for the handle? I don't know nuttin' about machinery.
Καλημέρα και καλή Ανάσταση από την όμορφη Ελλάδα
Yo ,why not put in the set screw?
I found out why the easter bunny always looks good in pictures !
Harespray! Ha Ha
"Champers is what sets us apart from the animals"
"Champers"??
@@paulcopeland9035 Chamfers
Not sure but I seem only able to get as close as .02 ish mm with edge finder’s.
Wot, you say, under a thou. Just not good enough, hey..! :))
it was clearly too tight in the middle where the deflection is at its most severe. but as RUclips goes , it's always right on the number and to the correct depth. I'm certain you took a few more spring passes.
Agreed, deflection.
The end user can run a die down it. It was only tight by a few thousandths.
@@WhatAboutTheBee This raises an interesting question about cutting thread to fit worn nut versus cut to spec. I know (as I recall) that this was intended to repair something with sentimental value I wonder how close to spec the threads wound up.
@@robertbamford8266 Likely not to spec, but to the part, as you say. A good die can be adjusted for fit as well, so I do think the end user can tinker for proper fitment.
@@WhatAboutTheBee thanks. Adjustable die. Good to know.
@@WhatAboutTheBee If he had a die he wouldn't need Keith to make it.
didn't you have a self centering vise at one time?
It seems to me that 1/8" clearance is too much, that would be what I would expect when it is worn out
I suspect that as well. At least I wouldn't want that much wobble in a vice I was fixing up. Yes you want nice clearance so it slides easy but that would be excessive. Good thing is that it can be "fixed" by using larger stock for the handle.
I agree 1/8" is a lot of clearance. The hole is located closely to the end as well. Not a lot of meat left there. I would have moved the hole to be closer to center mass.
About 25/32 would have been a good sliding fit for that handle.
That vice has to work but it also has to look 100 years old, it is not a restoration project, it is to continue using it as before it broke
@@ruben_balea I agree, in part. To appear as the old one is, the replacement needs to have the same wallowed out hole of the original, not a fresh round one. I am not being critical of Keith for doing it this way, just stating my opinion
Man if I was a machinist I'd die from error accumulation. This stuff is complicated
ACME IS 29 DEG.
Keith, you should tell your less experienced viewers to make sure that they zero out the “ Z” axis as well as the “Y” axis when taking a reading on both sides of the shaft. Just in case you are not exactly on the center of the diameter.
👍
6:30 "since we don't have a follow rest"...how about to make one...🤔🤔
I think it is at 89 degrees of compound rest that every increment on the lathe dial is moving 0.0001".
Old Top Slides with a Mark on 84 Degrees exist
Not only at that diameter
@@lusekelomgomango962 can you explain what you mean?
@@an2thea514 yes because there other lathe machine in degrees of compound rest on other hand every increment on the lathe dial is moving in 0.001
@@lusekelomgomango962 well then, it was yout typo of writing Diameter, instead of Position or Degree
Keith - did you say and mean 30 deg? Isn’t ACME 29 or is that a feature of the stub version? I only had on e cup of coffee while watching so I may not have heard you right. Mike
Kitty! Been a while -- or maybe I'm not watching close enough.
I think you need to revert to your old sound recording system.
To me the insert in the tool looks like it slipped out of the holder??
Shouldn't the setscrew hole be tapped? Or is the customer going to do that as well?
It’s just a nesting hole. The set screw threads are in the collar Keith mentioned that is located there.
@@Crewsy Thanks.
👍👀
Thanks, but an acme thread has an included angle of 29 degrees.
good job on them threads!
poor drills tho lol jk
personally I can't believe someone would send you something so dirty to use as a pattern
💯💯+1👍!
That much force to turn the nut and you are calling it good?? Should you have at least run some emery paper across it?
Seems a shame to reuse that banged up old handle
The hands and labors of beloved family banged up that old handle. It's valuable and grows more so with each use.
Check the spelling of "cuting" in the thumbnail.
Metal scavenging starving kids in china would love to have those chips!
Thats screw.. it useless without the nut.. anyone can cut a screw 🤕😷🤧
Make a new handle.
customer didn't want one
Hello I'm an mechanical engineer.. And a laboratory supervisor of college of engineering here in the Philippines. I want to learn more about.. Shaper lathe and milling machines.. Can u guide me or share a knowledge about those machines.?
No
RUclips
Get someone at the engineering college you're at.
There are lots of videos about those machines on RUclips, just search for them.
Hi Joseph. Keith almost never responds here in the comments. It is unclear to me what part of the machines you want to learn. If it is the operation, then you will need a practical trade school to teach you machining, literally speeds and feeds. If you want to learn about the theory, it is material science and shear. If your goal is to be able to better supervise staff, then management courses are better suited than trying to compete with a skilled worker in his area of expertise. I don't know if that was any help. [Source: degreed engineer here]
I wonder--assuming you were a billionaire hobbyist of course!--if it would be possible to buy absolutely brand new lathes and milling machines? Or do they simply not make them any more because Computer Assisted Manufacturing has completely taken over?
New manual lathes and mills are still being produced. Check out the Abom79 channel. Adam recently bought one of each brand new. No need to be a millionaire, but deep pockets or good credit is helpful.
@@BrianEltherington I did watch quite a few of ABom's videos a year or two ago--a really good, educational You Tuber although he does tend to focus on projects I am not myself primarily interested in. I certainly recommend him for anyone who enjoys Keith's videos.
I will go and have a look at his new lathe though!!!
sorry but i fell asleep during your video.