I love watching your videos. They are very helpful & have the added bonus of reminding me of watching my Father fix all our household devices & the Neighbours various devices in the 70’s & 80’s. Thank you 🙏 👌👍
Protip: After you inspired me to 'repair' turntables, I bought this exact model (along with half a dozen different ones). For the motor mounts for the Kenwood and any other suspended motor, Amazon sells generic grommets. I bought the 300 Pcs Rubber Grommets Kit and just matched the size to the original. And mine was 'crystalized'
For REF, I bought motor mounts for my KD 2055 from Gary at The Voice of Music, PN's VM2773 and VM36948. You need three of each, for a total of $6. Works perfectly. He has belts for these, too.
I just watched again the last four minutes of the video and when you start the auto start the tonearm doesn't lift high enough to clear the locking post where the arm rest I believe you can adjust the height right where the arm rides on the black rubber slide under the arm lifter there is a adjustment screw! I think that will fix it!
GREAT JOB MAN...Not sure if you getting notifications ,,,but Have same problem... when in AUTO MODE tone arm returns half way...the only way auto return works if i can switch the AUTO/MANUAL START LEVER INTO MANUAL MODE(after I started in AUTO NODE I then switch lever to Manual Mode) Not as professional as you are pal..but after watching will try one more time
I think the lift adjustment is off what I mean is it's not lifting the needle off the record soon enough! If there is a adjustment maybe it's slightly off! I was pausing the video as it went into the led out and I noticed the tone arm lifter being a second off to lift the tone arm!
The pivot that the troublesome lever is secured on could behave properly is some silicon damping grease was applied to the pivot. The auto return sequence is operating properly aside from the jarring action of the lever.
@@TurntableGuysee if there is a lubrication chart. Cleaning with iso could flush the grease that was insitu or it may call for specific lube in the mechanism. Alternatively, the original lube may have gotten tacky and providing not enough free movement and storing too much potential energy on that spring. In my experience 90% of issues are clean and lube related. 5% out of adjustment from use and The other 5% are from a failed repair attempt by a noob.
You have the correct solution. A look at the schematic will likely show a foam bumper pad about 1/4" square to absorb the mechanical force of metal striking metal. I recently serviced a Pioneer PL-12X and a JVC JL-A30 both with a deteriorated foam bumper. Never saw the symptom though because I serviced these decks before running them.
@TurntableGuy see if there is a lubrication chart. Cleaning with iso could flush the grease that was insitu or it may call for specific lube in the mechanism. Alternatively, the original lube may have gotten tacky and providing not enough free movement and storing too much potential energy on that spring. In my experience 90% of issues are clean and lube related. 5% out of adjustment from use and The other 5% are from a failed repair attempt by a noob.
I do not like how you work that bearing of all things so hard with the Q Tip - they come apart and leave fibres in there. There are little lint-free cleaning tissues for that.
I love watching your videos. They are very helpful & have the added bonus of reminding me of watching my Father fix all our household devices & the Neighbours various devices in the 70’s & 80’s. Thank you 🙏 👌👍
Protip: After you inspired me to 'repair' turntables, I bought this exact model (along with half a dozen different ones). For the motor mounts for the Kenwood and any other suspended motor, Amazon sells generic grommets. I bought the 300 Pcs Rubber Grommets Kit and just matched the size to the original. And mine was 'crystalized'
For REF, I bought motor mounts for my KD 2055 from Gary at The Voice of Music, PN's VM2773 and VM36948. You need three of each, for a total of $6. Works perfectly. He has belts for these, too.
Hurts my soul watching you struggle with those pliers. One would think that someone making videos like this would have the right tools for the job.🤔
Take a Tylenol for the pain
I just watched again the last four minutes of the video and when you start the auto start the tonearm doesn't lift high enough to clear the locking post where the arm rest I believe you can adjust the height right where the arm rides on the black rubber slide under the arm lifter there is a adjustment screw! I think that will fix it!
GREAT JOB MAN...Not sure if you getting notifications ,,,but
Have same problem... when in AUTO MODE tone arm returns half way...the only way auto return works if i can switch the AUTO/MANUAL START LEVER INTO MANUAL MODE(after I started in AUTO NODE I then switch lever to Manual Mode)
Not as professional as you are pal..but after watching will try one more time
I'm thinking it's the auto return motor. This table is way too complicated for its own good.
Great video as always ✌️(despite the small defeat)
I think the lift adjustment is off what I mean is it's not lifting the needle off the record soon enough! If there is a adjustment maybe it's slightly off! I was pausing the video as it went into the led out and I noticed the tone arm lifter being a second off to lift the tone arm!
Both the sequence and the height are correct. I did play with all the height adjustments and it made no difference.
Darn sorry to hear that. Like you said it's worn out on that spring.
The pivot that the troublesome lever is secured on could behave properly is some silicon damping grease was applied to the pivot. The auto return sequence is operating properly aside from the jarring action of the lever.
Interesting idea.
Maybe see if there is a lube chart for the unit similar to Dual turntables. @TurntableGuy
@@TurntableGuysee if there is a lubrication chart. Cleaning with iso could flush the grease that was insitu or it may call for specific lube in the mechanism. Alternatively, the original lube may have gotten tacky and providing not enough free movement and storing too much potential energy on that spring. In my experience 90% of issues are clean and lube related. 5% out of adjustment from use and The other 5% are from a failed repair attempt by a noob.
It's very nice but definitely something to do with that spring maybe not as you read my next comment!
valiant effort - the Rock is a legendary Kenwood, but more complexity than quality IMO
Any updates?
I could be wrong, but it seems to me from the outside that the auto-stop lever itself should have a rubber damper made of rubber.
You have the correct solution. A look at the schematic will likely show a foam bumper pad about 1/4" square to absorb the mechanical force of metal striking metal. I recently serviced a Pioneer PL-12X and a JVC JL-A30 both with a deteriorated foam bumper. Never saw the symptom though because I serviced these decks before running them.
@TurntableGuy see if there is a lubrication chart. Cleaning with iso could flush the grease that was insitu or it may call for specific lube in the mechanism. Alternatively, the original lube may have gotten tacky and providing not enough free movement and storing too much potential energy on that spring. In my experience 90% of issues are clean and lube related. 5% out of adjustment from use and The other 5% are from a failed repair attempt by a noob.
Glad i got the 2055, a lot simpler auto mechanism
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ xin chào
I do not like how you work that bearing of all things so hard with the Q Tip - they come apart and leave fibres in there. There are little lint-free cleaning tissues for that.
Those are electronic-specific cotton swabs. No fibres are released.
Some guys just do not know what they dont know. @@TurntableGuy
hmmm commercials at every 3 mins - is worse than tv
I hear you. It is brutal.