2024 Tesla Model 3: LFP vs 2170 Batteries | Don’t Make a Mistake!
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- Опубликовано: 21 янв 2024
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If you are about to order or thinking about ordering the newly refreshed Tesla Model 3, you need to watch this video before you make that purchase. Is the Long-range version really worth the extra $7K purchase price, or is the RWD that is equipped with LFP batteries a better option?
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NOTE: The content found in this video should NOT be regarded as financial advice. I am not a financial advisor, and this is NOT in any way a recommendation or offer to buy or sell securities. While the information in this video is believed to be accurate at the time of recording, no guarantees are being made about the accuracy of the information presented in the video. As of the recording of this video, I am NOT invested in Tesla stock or securities, nor any other company mentioned in this video. 
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One of your most practical videos for a potential buyer. Thank you.
You're welcome! I am glad you found it helpful.
I just bought the model 3 SR and have no regrets. Sure, I would enjoy the acceleration of the Performance from time to time, but the SR is fun and still pretty fast. $10k can buy a lot of tacos.
I just test drove the Highland RWD and the acceleration felt quick. I'm kind of blown away with that and how smooth it felt. You could have fooled me it was an air suspension.
@@Lost_In_LADid you drive the BYD Seal? I drove one after the Highland. The Seal is so much more enjoyable for several reasons.
@@hermanstokbroodbut Chinese..
@curtisbrown3865 💯 made a great choice. I’ve had both M3P and MYP and while they are both very fast they become boring after a while. I tested the 2.0 RWD yesterday and it made me giggle through the twisties because off it’s RWD. Plenty of smiles. Good choice.
@@eloneatmyshorts Jeez, it makes you giggle huh? You must be too young to drive. 🤣
Excellent and thorough review. This is something I suspected in the back of my head, but never really knew how the actual comparison would play out. Thank you!
This is the best video I could find when deciding between the two trims! Thanks
The RWD is absolutely the sensible option and the one I’d recommend to almost anybody who is in doubt, but I tested both right after each other and the AWD just brought a smile to my face in a way that the RWD didn’t.
Thanks!! I do really like when facts come supported by numbers. Useful video.
This is the exact video I wanted. Thank you!
Great analysis. Very helpful. Thank you. (RWD LFP already bought).
My Model 3 RWD has been fine in the Colorado winter, and has had adequate range for road trips to remote places like Chaco Canyon.
Excellent video, thanks for explaining the difference in Model 3 options.
The LFP, for me is where it's at. Charging to 100% without worrying about degradation is awesome. And if you need more range, you can simply add it by driving 10 mph slower - because wind resistance increases by the square.
Can you explain to me why it's easier to charge to 100%? Do you mean you need to keep an eye on the charging for the LR model?
@@ceeIoc Hi, I'm not sure if you are aware but Tesla offers 2 different types of battery chemistries. NCM and LFP battery packs. Each type has their pros and cons. NCM packs have higher energy density, perform better in cold weather, and are able to charge and discharge faster (discharging faster means it can be used for high performance applications). LFP packs have more cycle times (meaning they can be charged and discharged more times in their life time than NCM). They don't catch fire if punctured. And to answer your question, it's not that it's easier to charge to 100%, it's that charging it to 100% doesn't degrade the battery life like it does with NCM. NCM voltage rises dramatically toward the end of the charge cycle - this voltage spike slightly damages the pack. Over time, it will reduce the range. So typically it is recommended to only charge it to 80 or 90%, and only 100% when needed. LFPs can be charged to 100% every day. Also NCM doesn't like going below 20% - but again LFP doesn't mind going to around 1% (neither pack should be run to 0).
@@hieyeque1 Thanks for the info! But from a practical standpoint, charging to only 80% isn’t a convenience issue right? It only impacts the mileage since you don’t charge to 100%. I’m debating between rwd and lr right now.
@@ceeIoc You won't have any problems with convenience, charging to 80% is a setting in the car or your Tesla app. it remembers what you set it to by location, so you don't have to mess with it once it's set. If you live in a colder climate, LR is better - and you do have the option to go further. Also the LR will be faster (at acceleration) than the RWD. If you do the math, 80% gives you about the same range on the LR as does 100% on the RWD.
Not an option for me in Ontario
I live in northern Canada and even according to Kyle on out of spec podcast/channel the dual motor (which i have) heats the battery much faster than the rwd having two motors to heat the battery in cold winter temps. This can be a big deal for people like me in northern Canada, also max charge speed at superchargers are capped for sr+ both ac/dc speeds are slower
Very well explained and I’m a avid follower of Tesla and EV’s and still learned some good info there.
The most informative video I’ve ever seen! Big thumbs up!🎉🎉🎉
We bought a 23 Model 3 standard range with LFP batteries for the reason you mentioned. The car (new) was discounted $3,850 by Tesla, $2,000 rebate from state and $ 7,500 tax credit! We also love the car!!
I got $123.00 for a tax rebate 😂. I don't make enough money.
Thanks, that helped me to solidify my choice of my M3 SR!!!!
Your information tables are always very helpful. Good video.
Glad you like them!
Man that was a good comparison. Thanks 😊
One aspect of the LFP pack you didn't mention is cold weather performance. The RWD suffers more from the cold than the long range. It's a big deal for midwesterners that deal with Nov-April with temperatures below 32F a majority of the time.
I had my LFP Model 3 RWD out this week in mild freezing rain, -8°C, 94 km trip. The defroster ran full blast half the time, but couldn’t keep the windshield clean without continually shooting fluid. By the end of the trip I had used 165 km of battery range. The car is basically unusable on highway trips in the winter in Canada, even in the east
As long as Superchargers are frequent enough (100 miles apart or less) you'll be fine for any road trip during any time of the year. Winters for me on the east coast haven't been an issue and I drive around 80 miles per day for work.
This applies only to the old CATL LFP. Tesla puts the BYD blade LFP ein the EU Y SR. That is much better, charges faster, heat up faster and performes better in the cold. Sadly Tesla still puts the old Catl in the M3+
@@DubitzWe just completed 4,200 miles in 8 days traveling from WI to Las Vegas, Phoenix, AZ and back to WI in early January. It was -5F for a decent amount of travel in the midwest. Certainly, it was doable but the car required quite a bit of preconditioning for every stop. I feel a non-LFP would require less preconditioning for fast charging and would certainly not limit regen as much as the LFP RWD did for us.
My understanding is that newer LFP battery chemistries are better in cold conditions than NCM.
A word about battery degradation- Everybody loves to talk about it on these RUclips videos but what they fail to mention is, it’s rarely the cause for a failure. Most of the time batteries fail because of some internal issue with cells or contactors or some other issue the cause a rapid drop off and range. With people that take care of their battery Even the 2170s are rated for 1500 charge cycles which puts you well over 400,000 miles before degradation is even an issue. (barring other types of failures that do not fall under regular degradation.)
When you say "people that take care of their battery" you mean rarely charge above 80%, AND slow charge, correct?
@@DSC800 mainly keep it below 80%
Best video comparing an LFP and a LR! Any chance you're planning to make a video comparing a 2022 LFP M3 to a 2021 LR M3? They are similarly priced and it would be interesting to see the actual range and charging speed differences
Thanks John, very helpful
I am super happy with mine long range LFP model 3.
When I bought it, I wasn't sure how it will be. But, had several 1000km+ trips without any kind of issue.
Tip: If you want to buy a model 3, best moment is when the quarter is about to end, Tesla often gives good discounts to have good sales numbers.
This is the reason I got mine, they offered 5K discount without me even asking for it, when 3Q was about to end.
Amazing breakdown. Thank you.
I made the same observation when the LFP models were first announced but it may be overstated. If planning a long journey I would always charge to 100% just before leaving and for shorter distance trips, the range doesn't matter nearly so much.
Best video I have seen. Thanks!
Very information. Thanks for explanation
until today I was 100% sure I would go for AWD. Now you changed my mind!
We need a brave soul to own both and put the LFP battery into the Long Range.
Then run the teats and see what the range works out to be on a long road trip as well as a week or two of typical daily driving around town when supplying power to two motors BUT also able to charge to 100% every single time.
I experience the range of both and I know what you are talking about the fact that you can’t charge to 100 makes the rwd really compete with the long range model.
Driving the tm3 awd around the artic circle for several years I had zero issues with it. Buying a LR is mostly for people like to spend more money on cars than necessary.
from my experience
splash and go works best with LFP and long range tends to be slower unless your state of charge is lower than 10%
i had follow and watched Bjorn since he start with Nimber task using his rwd model S
Thank you for this video. Decided to buy the model 3 instead of LR.
The difference in 0-60 is significant. I drove an an LFP and found it significantly slower than my dual motor. Not that you need to have all that speed all the time,,, but its so nice to take off and accelerate with such little effort.
As I see it, the audio can be upgraded either aftermarket or probably they left the speakers in the cars and we just have to reconnect them like with the last model. You lose some range upfront, but I feel like the RWD will last longer. One thing to keep in mind, the RWD is a bit slower on the acceleration, but its still faster then anything your used to if your coming from your average ICE car. Honestly, having test driven both, the sound system is great, and unless your whole life is audio, it would be fine for everyone.
Incredibly useful video!
I can use the extra range due to frequent long drives where chargers are spread out. You’re right on about the standard being adequate due to the battery tech. I want the high end stereo though. It’s unavailable in standard though. Between that and lack of CarPlay…almost as frustrating as the German brand nonsense.
Thank You sooooooo much!!!!!
U the Best!!!!
Thanks for the informative video, Jon. As I live in coastal Sydney, Australia, The rwd drive M3 plus is the go. In winter we never get below 7 degrees C at night or 11 degrees C during the day. That's over 50 F for you US people. I ordered a M3 for the ventilated seats and the best efficiency going around.
I find here in Canada, the car is basically unusable on the highway below -11°C. The range dropoff is like 40%.
Even below -4°C, if you’re on a long trip using all Superchargers, the car doesn’t save money vs using a gas car.
Did you check out Seal
You sure did talk yourself in to the SR. I went through the same stuff last summer and bought the LR, and am glad I did. LR batteries are happier in cold weather, AWD is safer in bad weather. You played that down too much. I live in the PNW and that matters. I am a fan of LiFePO4 batteries, have them in my RV, but I want better cold weather performance and better energy density. And LR is definitely more fun to drive.
Have been studying this subject for several weeks but I still learned several things from your video. Just placed an order for the Model 3 RWD. Originally placed the order for the dual motor version assuming they had similar battery types. Found out there is no charge to edit the order from AWD to RWD (unless a VIN has already been assigned). Wonder why the drivetrain warranty for the LFP version is only 100k miles?? That's concerning to me.
Once lithium ion is degraded, THEN it can last a very long time in the degraded state. When I build things with used 18650 the lowest performes last the longer, and when I purchase used lots, I only have to discard 8 %. But then on the long rune none did go bad on me.
You missed an important limiting factor with the lithium ion pack. You should only charge it to 80% max capacity but you also should not ever drop it below around 15%. This further limits the usable daily range significantly. Go lithium iron phosphate pack generally doesn't care as much if you drop it down to 1%.
Another thing to consider is the curb weight of each vehicle. While the lithium ion I believe will still be a little lighter, a lithium iron is not going to weigh significantly more because while the charge density of lithium-iron is much lower, the chemistry is much safe for so you don't need to package it as drastically as you would a lithium ion
The surprising thing is that LFP batteries have a lifespan approximately 2 times longer than NMC batteries 😊, but the LFP warranty is less than NMC.😮
So we should expect half the degradation per year from an lfp versus nmc pack? That's interesting, and somewhat hard to believe without real world data.
@@pioneer7777777 LFP is rated for much more charging cycles.
2 times longer lifespan is only useful when you ride more than 500,000km with a single car.. so lifespan does not really matter when it comes to BEV. for ESS? LFP is better.
Perhaps because it's not been tried and tested yet..
Dahn has shown that NMC has similar cycle life to LFP when charged to same voltages. If cycled between 30 and 70%, which takes care of normal urban use, it will last past 10k cycles.
ruclips.net/video/rOAYjcO6kao/видео.html
Verey clear, thanks.
Great video.
Very useful breakdown of the differences. Thanks! Personally, I’m torn between SR and LR. I’d much prefer the LFP battery, slower charging is fine too, but here in Finland snowy conditions last 5-6 months. I tested the SR Highland and it was pretty easy to lose traction in the rear. If it was just for me, it would be a fun feature, but my wife probably won’t appreciate that aspect as much :D
Get the AWD, you wont regret it.
Big problem is a single motor version has 1/2 the battery heating capacity compared to the dual Motor a big issue when you are in a cold climate especially when the single motor's LFP batteries does not do as well as the NMC batteries in the AWD.
I get your argument that both have an “equivalent” range considering you are charging one to 80% and the other to 100%. However, if you’re charging on the road, charging to 100% takes SIGNIFICANTLY longer than getting to 80%, regardless of what battery you have. Also there are a few routes (Kingman AZ to Flagstaff AZ comes to mind) where you need ALL your range-and you can always go over 80% in the long range if you need that range. (I’ve driven that route in a LR model Y, and I have no idea if it is possible in a standard range Tesla…)
I got the 23 k M3 made in June of 2018. I live in Canada where it is cold and we potentially get snow 6 months of the year. I am glad I got the long range and unfortunately there were no AWD models when I got my car and it is my only regret.
I started out with looking at rwd as well with LFP battery, but decided with the cold spell LFP was too limiting, switch to AWD and NCA.
Mod3 with LFP
ModY with LFP. final result for driver not in cold weather, snow that needed traction of AWD.
Thank you for the video. Subbed :-)
before that I had a LFP 12v barrery in all my cars, meaning THE SAME battery went from car to car since 2012 to 2023, those were HEADWAY cells 12AH a set of 4. The startup of ICE engines was always strong, and even tho I sold the cars I kept that battery. LFP is OK for MAD MAX situation ahead. : meaning to keep the car 30 years.
Fair points, but fundamentally the LR battery is larger and provides more range. I only charge to 100% for road trips but that extra 100+km makes a real difference. The LR is also quicker and is of course AWD.
You rock man ! Answered the question i had. I wanna upgrade my cheap fiesta either to a swift sport (80k kms from 2014 here they cost from 12 to 14k euros in France) but a Tesla is around 20-25k for less than 60k kms, 2020.. so let's say double the price
But in 120k miles I'll have easily recovered the cost of buying the tesla compared to spending money on gas..
So i was wondering about the LFP vs standard 2170. Plus i believe to reduce battery degradation on the 2170 you should use it from 20 to 80% and not 0 to 80% so yeah if you wanna keep it 10+ years like i plan to (i kept my crappy but reliable fiesta for 5 years and still love it) i think the LFP is a no brainer
Having the performance of the dual motor is not so penalizing. If driven modestly the extra motor does not seem to be that much more inefficient than the single motor. Hence no down side having the additional power available. Thus I sprung for the dual motor and love it. Generally I drive modestly and get good efficiency. But when I apply the full performance of the 2 motors it's nice to have it. For me overall the dual motor is a better choice.
My 2021 model 3 LFP has done 30,000km and Tessie reports 4.1% battery degradation. Which according to their app is in line with crowd sourced data.
The biggest factor is environment / ambient temperature. LFP batteries don't like colder climates and are less energy dense (at the moment). If manufacturers built the battery packs so they could be fitted to older cars then that would be a great idea. Tesla are building their cars around the battery so are they building obsolescence into the cars ?
thanks for the great video and comparison. i watched it because I was about to pick up 2024 highland rwd sr. With the price of 2024 Highland M3P, doesn't make sense to get the 2024 Highland dual motor since it's more expensive than M3P after the 7500 govt credit, since it is now the only 2024 Highland trim eligible.
Excellent work. M3 ex-USA, prices are different. Lithium makes sense
I totally agree, and that was our thought when we ordered the LR new Model 3. The one thing that drew us to the LR, was not the range, same as SR on day to day. Faster charging for roads trips, do not do that many huge road trips. Get to the grocery store just that much faster, no. :) Living in Canada, with the snow, our reason was the dual motor for the potential day here and there with snow storms. Is it worth the extra money no, but not much of a choice. Would have considered an SR with dual motor and lower range, but that does not exist either.
Whereas you can have twice the fun on snow with a rear wheel drive set to slip start… 😁
@@robinsonreichel1268having grown up and currently living in a very snowy state, this is true but having good snow tires on RWD Tesla is better than AWD with regular tires.
@@robinsonreichel1268 I more than agree. But the car is for the wife, and she is not as adventurous with driving on snow. :)
@@ih2898
Ok, got you. 🙂
I had to trade in my M3P with Track Mode for an LR because of towing.
And I desperately miss the fun on snow. 😁
(luxury cars should have 4 wheel drive -the subwoofers add to the experience when you do in-car gaming and watch rocket launches )
long range(more range) is nice to have; so other loud cars are nice to have but let's be practical and go LFP
I say go with long range if you really need AWD
Reliability wins.
But curiously while talking about longevity and reliability the second motor could play a major factor.
After all that is precisely a selling feature of the Semi, it can still run even if two of it's three motors have failed somehow.
If you can go dual motor without looking back.
The power difference is night and day, 0-60 is a shitty comparison; The power brings joy at any speed you press the pedal.
The sound system is another huge difference.
All that + AWD is sort of "why would I do that to my self" unless is the absolute maximum I can afford.
Can you do same video including the performance?
Performance boost in the LR!
Got stuck with my friend's RWD model 3 in mushy snow that was somewhat deep but not that bad. I dont think RWD is good for Canada"s winter. The range lost in -30+ degree also is massive.
That is a generous warranty I must say, I bought an 11 year old var with 130k miles here in EU, it wiuld just be fredh out of warranty based on this.
If they really are so sure the battery will hold up over more than 100k miles, there might still be value in more than 10 y.o. EVs down the line…
One thing you didn't mention was climate. Are LFP better or worse in certain climates? I know I have seen some reports LFP holds up better in very hot climates such as AZ and parts of CA deserts. And how about very cold climates?
Could Tesla "Shipping Optimus" be referring to their delivering Optimus to GigaMex for incorporation into the "Unboxed and Unmanned Assembly" production set to be unveiled ?
I think so.
We purposely bought a 2023 Model 3 LFP RWD for the reasons you mentioned in this video. A year later and we still love it.
Thanks for the video.
The big difference I can see is the max charge rate at lower soc assuming the LFP RWD still charge at peak of 170kW and LR charges at peak 250kw. So the main ‘real-life’ difference would fall to marginally faster charging, some more range at 80%, and additional motor for traction and acceleration. This scenario is mostly beneficial on road trips using superchargers or for rideshare/delivery drivers.
LFP also holds a higher charge rate deeper into the battery, though. I forget it's exact details, but its not too far off the NMC 2170s average rate.
@@aerostorm_ yeah the advantage of LR is little if you’re regularly charging at home (100% with LFP and 80-90% with NCA).
Watch TeslaBjorns 1000km challenge. The MY RWD was only 5mins slower.
Huge difference in performance, especially if you get the boost.
My 2023 Model 3 RWD with LFP with 30k miles and 18" hubcaps is currently in the shop and I have a loaner 2020 loaner model 3 LR and I am SHOCKED how bad the capacity is at and it ONLY has 32k miles with the premium 19" wheels.
The 2020 loaner model 3 LR has a range of ONLY 283 miles at 100% state of charge according to the car. At 80% daily its a whooping 225 miles! It says on Tessie that it has 8.4% battery degradation and is on par with the fleet average.
My 2023 model 3 RWD LFP has a degradation of only 4% and I get 261 miles at 100%. I dont have OEM hubcaps on, so I could possibly squeeze more out if I put them back on.
I live in an apartment, so I ONLY supercharge it. The only benefit of the LR for me would be the upgraded speakers and more comfortable suspension, but I heard the highland is much more improved and i'm not sure if the LR will be more comfortable in the Highland too. My RWD is way more bumpy than a performance model 3 or the model 3 LR. But the speakers and second faster is not worth the extra $9k at all.
I think the point that the Long Range is also AWD and some of us need that for mid and snow - is missing.
i got the Y performance because i like to go fast. plus i have a wife and 3 kids
THANK YOU THIS IS VERY RELEVANT, JUST CHOOSING WHICH HIGHLAND TO BUY, AND WAVERING BETWEEN THE AWD AND RWD!
The AWD is worth it, in my opinion,, the speed, traction, handling, range.
I’m with you , the Rwd Is the way to go
LR is important in 2 scenarios. 1-Winter and ride in snow to ski. 4x4 is much much better. 2-And long trips, where charge it to 80% is much much faster then charge SR to 100% to get same range. If you are in a hurry LR is better choice. And if you charge SR to 80%, you have much smaller range then in LR.
Get a good pre-owned LR with acceleration boost.
Top speed is significantly higher.
There are very nice seat covers that can make up for the ventilated seats. 😁
Not the Highland version. It's capped at 125 mph.
@@KP-xi4bj
That is exactly what I’m talking about. 😉
No sports car has beat me off the line yet they might get me down the road but not off the line with my single motor😊
I've been shopping for full solar/battery home kits. LFP batteries have come UP in quality and WAY down in price. Rapidly. I am expecting a replacement cost of no more than 5 to 7k in 5 years. LFPs are not the be all end all but they are cheap and very durable
I bought the SR for the LFP battery/cheaper price/range.
Also, if I remember right, both the RWD and Long Range both utilize the LFP batteries. They haven't had the 2170s in the long range 3 for a while now...
Incorrect. The Long range has 2170 batteries made by LG. LFP batteries cannot provide 341 miles of EPA range in a Model 3. They don't have enough energy density for that.
si on recharge la LR à 80 % et la LFP à 100%, écart de temps ?
perso, la LR m'evite de m'arreter sur les bornes (autoroutes) et dans mon cas, je fais que du domicile (moins cher)
Unless you plan to use near the maximum range on a daily basis I don't think it's relevant to compare the 80% charge of the LR to 100% of the SR. Most people only need full range on rare occasions so occasional 100% charge on the LR won't significantly increase capacity loss. The valid comparison is full charge to full charge.
No it's not! What are you talking about? You charge once a week and your charge standard range to 100% but long range you charge to 80% unless you wanna fuck up your battery. Rarely you will charge to 100% so it's almost irrelevant.... You logic has no logic at all. Why would you use maximum range daily? You can use it weekly and you will get the same amount of miles out of both cars...
Definitely worth the extra money to get the Long Range. I speak from vast experience. Resale value is a factor that needs to be addressed and was not covered. Great video!
Love my dual motor,,, i wouldn't even consider a the standard range.
For resell value, does the dual motor outweigh the fact that the battery degrades faster on a Long Range model?
We currently own a 2022 MYP and am waiting for the refreshed Y in the next year or so. But there is one feature I want in my next Tesla. V2H charging. Hopefully our next EV will be a Tesla. But V2H charging will dictate that.
Just ordered the RWD Highland last night. This video is just icy on top of my decision.
Me, too! Yee-hawww! Can't wait.
great video comparing the overall expectations of the different battery types - I was aware of the recommendation difference for total charging (LFP = 100%; NMC = 80%) but I don't see much about how often to charge (or at what percentage of remaining use) - I recall with regular rechargeable smaller batteries, in the past it seemed the recommendation was not to charge them often when only a small amount of charge had been used as it would create a "memory effect" and impact the recharging level over time. But what about the LFP? My thought was to let the battery drop to at least 50% or less if just using the car locally and recharging at home - whereas my wife seems to think it is important to charge up as soon as the % drops to 70-80 ... what is the proper way to handle timing for recharging - use up a lot of the charge before recharging or recharge frequently? Does taking one path over the over significantly impact the overall life of the battery pack? - Thanks
It is healthier for both batteries to keep them topped off as much as possible. Plug in whenever you can. Charging from low charge to full will degrade your battery chemistry faster than just plugging it in every day. I got curious about this myself and did some digging through google and RUclips. I'm sure you can find the videos as well.
Edit: based on some more quick research, it's still healthier for an LFP battery lifespan to keep it at a lower state of charge. Charging it to 100% every so often is to calibrate it.
I've coming from an LFP and the battery degradation is crazy. 253 to 243-245.
Have driven 5k with my LFP Model 3 - very satisfied with the performance including the range and charging times. Unless you need AWD, the base model is a deal!
Please obtain details of charging losses across the various packs. IE the difference between the KWh units consumed by the charger and thus paid for (both at home or on the street) vs the KWh actually received by the battery. In Harry Metcalf's recent review of the BMW i5 M60 Xdrive, he observed a 10% charging loss.
A 10-12% kW loss during fast DC charging is completely normal for even Tesla EVs.
You argue that the lfp Batteries can be charged to 100% constantly but then do a charge time comparison of both of them from 10-80%. You don’t factor in the additional time for the lfp to go from 80-100%
What's the weight difference between the two?
An LFP model 3 with full premium interior would be perfect, it's too bad that they they only have the full premium interior on the one with the battery with a shorter life, which is the most important part of the car.. cars are the second biggest purchase most people make, so longevity is key.
NCM can outlast LFP.
ruclips.net/video/rOAYjcO6kao/видео.html
About the battery life : LFP < NCA & NCM
I am about to order an AWD Model 3. One factor not mentioned here is the Regen, one-pedal driving. While charging to 100% on the RWD should be done once a week (and as often as you like beyond that) that means frequent periods of no or limited regen/one-pedal driving. For me, why have a Tesla if I lose one-pedal driving (or much of it)? So, the 80% charge protocol is actually a plus to me, given that I will charge at home and can live with 80% of 75 kWh easily ... and the extra acceleration has real appeal to the child in me.
The amount of time without significant Regen from 100% is only a few %. Also, it is wise to use your brakes every once in a while, to keep the hydraulics working properly. Dr. Know-it-all recently had his brakes acting sticky, and the tech had him repeatedly use his brakes to get everything moving again.
I had my brakes "freeze" after driving in rain and letting it sit for a week unused. I had to use some power to brake them loose, then use them to burnish the "edges".