Installing Engineered Wood Stair Risers And Treads Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 15 фев 2020
- Installing Engineered Wood Stair Risers And Treads Part 2. In this video I start with the angled landing then work my way to the top.
Flooring is Bella Cera Amalfi Coast Hickory Capri www.bellacerafloors.com/hardwo...
Part 1 video here! • Installing Engineered ...
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Хобби
Great work.
thank you :)
You make going around a corner and go up look easy. A lot of math going on behind the scenes. Thanks Nick. As always, enjoyable.
It is easy! Yeah there's some math but it's pretty straightforward. Glad you liked it
GREAT JOB..
VERY UNDERSTANDABLE
THANKYOU..
CONGRATULATIONS
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Nick, great video, thank you! I have a couple questions if you have time (and understand if its too complicated to answer): I am looking to attempt DIY installation of Monarch Plank engineered flooring. I was going to start upstairs (as other work in progress on my house downstairs). I'm planning a floating installation. Some leveling will be required on the upstairs plywood subfloor etc. I plan to have the planks parallel to the stairs. The upper flight of stairs enters a hall with a wall at right, hallway to the left. Couple Questions: 1) Should i start in the bedrooms and work toward the landing? Or the reverse - do the landing, then work into the bedrooms? (Starting in a bedroom may create a tricky situation as one bedroom is at the end of the hall (planks go longwise), and the other two bedrooms enter the landing at the side - so I have to make sure planks align where they meet in the hallway). Or should I just put a T joiner at the bedroom doorways? (This is less desired, as its less attractive visually...) Any advice?. 2)when I get to the stairs, those will be glued down. Is a T-joiner the only way to connect a floating floor to a glued stair top? Thx again, Dave
floating floors are supposed to stop at all doorways and have a t joiner. If you don't you can have problems down the road because everything won't be able to expand and contract properly. The instructions with the flooring should say the maximum you can go without a transition. Same with the stairs, you will have to run the floating floor to the stairs and leave the recommended gap and add a transition. The only way to avoid this is if the stair nosing you are using is thicker than the flooring and you can add a rabbit to the back of it to let the floating floor slide underneath it. Your concerns are exactly why I don't like floating floors. You need transitions everywhere and then you create a tripping hazard at the top of a set of stairs. Best of luck to you
great job!! looks awesome. One question as I want to do the same project. Sorry if I missed it, but how did you fix stairs after using a nailgun? are marks visible after using some filler, I guess?
I didn't get that far in the video... actually it's been 2 years and I still haven't filled the holes cause it's my own house and I'm always last on the list. But yes, I just use minwax wood filler sticks. They come in different colors so I got a few of them that were close to my stain depending on which part of the wood the hole is in some spots are darker than others. Works great!
Hi Nick. where did you purchase the noses? I have failed to find a dealer. I've resorted to making my own which came out very nice but I don't want to make 14 more.
I purchased them from the same place I ordered the flooring. Custom made to order from Cambodia if I'm remembering correctly where the flooring manufacturer is located. They were very expensive.
What are you using to make your cuts
Miter saw and table saw with new blades
Is that engineered flooring or regular tongue and groove hardwood ?
As the title states, it is engineered 😀