I've been looking at plans for a bunch of box joint jigs (Mattias, John Heisz, etc) but I think yours is the one that's really going to work for me as I love the versatility. Awesome work and great channel.
I love the look at this jig. I find the cogs used by others to complicated, but having the visual guide seem to me to be so much better (rather than trying to remember how many turns etc. I have read some of the comments below, I think some people need to watch the video again, as a lot of the questions being asked are talked about in the video eg - the comment about why have the wheel on the side.
Man you are really nailing lately stumpy. I admire the adjustability of your jig, that is crucial for perfect box joints I have learned. I have made several single blade jigs and your design looks to be the last one i will build . I highly recommend a flat tooth grind blade for single blade box jointing. the atb teeth just cant make a dead flat cut.
This definitely is a winner for homemade box joint jigs. But I'm going to wait for the plans so I'm not going to mess up by trying with just the video. I can't wait thank you for the update
Darnit. I bought a copy of your book (which was hard to track down) and it doesn't have plans for this jig. Oh well, I'll have to make do building some of the other projects in there instead. Good work on this one, it is the best jig I've seen for finger jointing.
I''ve finally broke down and my next click is going to be buying the plans to make this jig. One suggestion though: from what it loos like in the video, you should design some sort of sacrificial attachment for when using different blade widths. .... Love your videos! (even though they've cost me fortunes in tools! ) ... ok, off to buy the plans!
Oooh! I've been waiting for this one...one set of plans, sold! Pure genius! My only "complaint" would be about background music...not necessary or helpful, just kinda irritating. Don't get me wrong, I love your videos, jigs and projects...
That looks like a beast, but once it is completed, will be very useful and we can do some creative joints with it. GREAT job!! EDITED COMENT I purchased the plans and they are VERY EASY to follow and you can make this with limited materials and hardware. A + ++ +++
Fair enough. But we also have a simple box joint jig that goes on a table saw sled, and is still fully adjustable: ruclips.net/video/m-7pEpOVq4E/видео.html
Need some pointers on how to lock the nuts down "square" with the lead screw. They tend to get "crooked" I had access to a metal lathe and squared mine up. But the best I can think is to fasten/epoxy the nut once it is backed up with another nut. Also using cabinet plates (for magnate locks) where the lead screw nuts pinch the carrier helps prolong accuracy.
Is the crank can be used to realign the jig in the case of my homemade table saw blade has moved a little while tightening the rod bolt? I will find a way to make that blade movement impossible in the future but for now it could still happen. By the way, this is a very well thinking jig.
I finished the build, runners are mounted. Do you have a blade recommendation for this jig with FTG ? Your plans were great, pictures were very helpful. Thank you...
Hi, Stumpy. I found, and downloaded, the plans. I have a an issue I hope you can help me with. I don't know how to print the guide template. I expected a separate pdf file for the template to be included with the plans. Thank you. Doug
I purchased the plans for the finger joint jig and I am almost done making it. However, the plan doesn't give any indication on how to position the rails for the table saw mitre gage slots. There was supposed to be a follow-up video in August but it hasn't arrived yet. Could you provide the missing mitre slot rail info?
Agree - need that follow-up video! Since I've built the Mega Sled, I've got the run down on that and just need to figure out where I want the "jig" to line up with the saw.
I looked up the plans for this Jig and it is not available for sale according to a message on your website. Maybe it is a glitch or something. However can I get plans?
If you have the tools and skill for it, but he does it this way for the way a wood worker without metalworking tools like thread cutters would be doing it.
So I bought the plans for this a while ago, but unfortunately 1" threaded rod is basically impossible to find where I live. Are there any alternatives that would work? Like could I use a half-inch rod, or is that likely to lock on the wrong side all the time? Or how about metric rod?
As long as the threads in the rod are in equal increments to the saw blade or dado you are using, then you'll be fine. What I mean is, I use 1" rod because it has a thread every 1/8", and full-kerf saw blades are 1/8" thick. So I can cut any with finger as long is it is in 1/8" increments. A 3/8" rod would work too (with some modifications to the design of the jig because the rod is so much smaller) because it has a thread every 1/16", so every two threads equals the 1/8" thickness of my blade. If your saw blade is metric, then you can use metric rod.
Stumpy Nubs Thanks for the reply, my good sir! It sounds like 3/8" is the way to go then. I'm glad I asked - otherwise I would have assumed that 1/2" rod is the one with a thread every 1/16" (since it's half as thick). When you say the design would need to be modified do you just mean using different size nuts and pipe hangers? I can't really see anything else that would need to change in the plans unless I'm overlooking something?
Yes, different nuts and pipe hangers. You may have to make your own pipe hangers or something similar because I am not sure they come in 3/8/ And the 3/8 rod isn't nearly as thick as the 1", so it will sit lower on the carriage. You may have to raise it up a bit so it will contact the toggle clamp. You'll see what I mean as you start building it.
Stumpy, I want to order the threaded rod and nuts now, and have them when the plans are ready...what length is the rod? Got a good supplier to share? Thanks!
The question I always ask myself with these increment-by-thread jigs...why? Think about how many times you have to turn that crank to build one box or drawer... Meanwhile the old style jig does the same thing, faster, easier, sometimes complex is not better...
i agree if you want to get fast results on a deadline... but on the other side, there is something about building jigs that is so much fun and we have to build them all :-)
Watch the video, he doesn't turn the crank at all.... it's only there for the rare occasion that you need to zero in your start mark with the blade, and even then, you should never need to turn it more than 1 revolution to get the zero. Shouldn't need to be turned again unless there was a blade change. The reason they do the machines threaded rod is that it is very precise and will give you very tight consistent joints, even when, as he shows in the video you didn't watch, he changes finger size part way across the board.
Love your video content; wishing the annoying music track was just on one speaker channel... I'll shut that channel off so I can still hear your good commentary.
I think you are missing the point. It's not about making the simplest way to cut box joints. It's about the fun of the jig itself. Much like building marble machines or other hobbies. If you just want simple and effective, use a board with an indexing key.
"bore" (v.) to pierce with a turning or twisting movement of a tool. -Merriam-Webster online dictionary. (Since you said "enlarge a hole" I believe you are confusing the word "bore" with "ream" (v.) to enlarge, shape, or smooth out a hole.)
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) I'm coming from a machining aspect where boring a hole you use a single point cutting tool like a boring bar and enlarge a hole
I'm not trying to start anything. I was wondering why you called it boring, and yes it does. You don't have to get hyped up over terminology I just never heard anybody use it in the way you did. It's your video you do you I was just asking
I wasn't being sarcastic. I was genuinely agreeing with you that it may be different in the machinist world. And I was suggesting that, no matter what type of material we work with, we can still enjoy a cold one together. :)
Your jig is ingenious! The use of the threaded rod is clever and will last for years of use. Thank you for sharing and making plans available.
I've been looking at plans for a bunch of box joint jigs (Mattias, John Heisz, etc) but I think yours is the one that's really going to work for me as I love the versatility.
Awesome work and great channel.
I love the look at this jig. I find the cogs used by others to complicated, but having the visual guide seem to me to be so much better (rather than trying to remember how many turns etc. I have read some of the comments below, I think some people need to watch the video again, as a lot of the questions being asked are talked about in the video eg - the comment about why have the wheel on the side.
Man you are really nailing lately stumpy. I admire the adjustability of your jig, that is crucial for perfect box joints I have learned. I have made several single blade jigs and your design looks to be the last one i will build . I highly recommend a flat tooth grind blade for single blade box jointing. the atb teeth just cant make a dead flat cut.
the thing at 1:40 that you can make different types of box joints really sets it apart from the others awesome work
This definitely is a winner for homemade box joint jigs. But I'm going to wait for the plans so I'm not going to mess up by trying with just the video. I can't wait thank you for the update
Another fantastic jig. This one goes onto the to build list for certain. Thank you for sharing so many great tips.
Darnit. I bought a copy of your book (which was hard to track down) and it doesn't have plans for this jig. Oh well, I'll have to make do building some of the other projects in there instead. Good work on this one, it is the best jig I've seen for finger jointing.
I''ve finally broke down and my next click is going to be buying the plans to make this jig.
One suggestion though: from what it loos like in the video, you should design some sort of sacrificial attachment for when using different blade widths. .... Love your videos! (even though they've cost me fortunes in tools! ) ... ok, off to buy the plans!
Oooh! I've been waiting for this one...one set of plans, sold! Pure genius! My only "complaint" would be about background music...not necessary or helpful, just kinda irritating. Don't get me wrong, I love your videos, jigs and projects...
Came here to say this. I thought my washing machine had developed a squeak
This thing is fantastic. The patternnis great!
I dig the music. great video James!
Looks awesome to me. But they don't call me 1Eye Woody for no reason. Cheers, You've earned it my friend.
That looks like a beast, but once it is completed, will be very useful and we can do some creative joints with it.
GREAT job!! EDITED COMENT
I purchased the plans and they are VERY EASY to follow and you can make this with limited materials and hardware.
A + ++ +++
Good design turned out. Made soundly. Like!
Nice design on this one.
Remarkable, I started out thinking I could never make that, but the explanations were so clear I will probably give it a go. Subscribed :-)
Dude! You are a wood working, engineering, stud! Lol
Is there a video planned that shows how to use the jig in detail? Does it use a runner? Where do you properly install it?
Very cool work! Thank You for posting this brilliant set up
that jig is bad ass! Your hands look nervous when scribing the perspex
This a very nice and elaborated jig but i think it is beyond the idea of a simple and practical jig...this is engineering
Fair enough. But we also have a simple box joint jig that goes on a table saw sled, and is still fully adjustable: ruclips.net/video/m-7pEpOVq4E/видео.html
Another home run!
Now I want to make this entire jig the way you have it, but add on John's advancing mechanism to it.
could also make replaceable pieces of plexiglass for the guage. if you really wanted a quick indicator of current blade set in use
Nice having the pattern guage!
I like this idea my frend, is super.
You mentioned in the video that there would be another one coming on how to make "complex" inlaid box joints. Have you published that one yet?
would like to see an updated video on the set up for this jig. put a lot of work into and don't want to mess it up at the end.
We're working on it. I'll get it online as soon as possible.
Need some pointers on how to lock the nuts down "square" with the lead screw. They tend to get "crooked" I had access to a metal lathe and squared mine up. But the best I can think is to fasten/epoxy the nut once it is backed up with another nut. Also using cabinet plates (for magnate locks) where the lead screw nuts pinch the carrier helps prolong accuracy.
Looks good.
Not sure but I think this is the one I bought off you guys
Is the crank can be used to realign the jig in the case of my homemade table saw blade has moved a little while tightening the rod bolt? I will find a way to make that blade movement impossible in the future but for now it could still happen. By the way, this is a very well thinking jig.
I finished the build, runners are mounted. Do you have a blade recommendation for this jig with FTG ? Your plans were great, pictures were very helpful. Thank you...
This jig has been available for a while. I would like to hear from those who have built and used it successfully. Build problems,setup, accuracy,Etc.
Great jig, please no music
Well, you missed out then.
Hi, Stumpy. I found, and downloaded, the plans. I have a an issue I hope you can help me with. I don't know how to print the guide template. I expected a separate pdf file for the template to be included with the plans. Thank you. Doug
I purchased the plans for the finger joint jig and I am almost done making it. However, the plan doesn't give any indication on how to position the rails for the table saw mitre gage slots. There was supposed to be a follow-up video in August but it hasn't arrived yet. Could you provide the missing mitre slot rail info?
Agree - need that follow-up video! Since I've built the Mega Sled, I've got the run down on that and just need to figure out where I want the "jig" to line up with the saw.
do any of these plans come in metric
No more plans available?
I looked up the plans for this Jig and it is not available for sale according to a message on your website. Maybe it is a glitch or something. However can I get plans?
Just a thought, would it have been better to use a tapped hole in the half nut at 10:07 instead of epoxy?
If you have the tools and skill for it, but he does it this way for the way a wood worker without metalworking tools like thread cutters would be doing it.
Holy cow your hands were shaking bad around 8:00
muito bom !10
"Happy finger joining." - so what, I haven't earned a cold one and I'm not your friend anymore!?
You'll always be my friend, Mr. whats-your-name!
What type of tape measure do you use? Looking for accurate one that I only use for wood working.
I like the measuring tapes made by Fastcap. They come in different styles and are available in woodworking stores or online.
I keep hearing a squeak, is that in the soundtrack? After 30 seconds that's all I was hearing.
what happened to the plans? the link leads to 404 error page
how mutch for you to send me the pieces of the jig so i just have to assemble it? :D
So I bought the plans for this a while ago, but unfortunately 1" threaded rod is basically impossible to find where I live. Are there any alternatives that would work? Like could I use a half-inch rod, or is that likely to lock on the wrong side all the time? Or how about metric rod?
As long as the threads in the rod are in equal increments to the saw blade or dado you are using, then you'll be fine. What I mean is, I use 1" rod because it has a thread every 1/8", and full-kerf saw blades are 1/8" thick. So I can cut any with finger as long is it is in 1/8" increments. A 3/8" rod would work too (with some modifications to the design of the jig because the rod is so much smaller) because it has a thread every 1/16", so every two threads equals the 1/8" thickness of my blade. If your saw blade is metric, then you can use metric rod.
Stumpy Nubs
Thanks for the reply, my good sir! It sounds like 3/8" is the way to go then. I'm glad I asked - otherwise I would have assumed that 1/2" rod is the one with a thread every 1/16" (since it's half as thick).
When you say the design would need to be modified do you just mean using different size nuts and pipe hangers? I can't really see anything else that would need to change in the plans unless I'm overlooking something?
Yes, different nuts and pipe hangers. You may have to make your own pipe hangers or something similar because I am not sure they come in 3/8/ And the 3/8 rod isn't nearly as thick as the 1", so it will sit lower on the carriage. You may have to raise it up a bit so it will contact the toggle clamp. You'll see what I mean as you start building it.
Good video. Very informative. But that background "music" is annoying and distracting.
Why do your hands shake?
Awesome ... Why make it simple when you can make it complicated ???
Stumpy, I want to order the threaded rod and nuts now, and have them when the plans are ready...what length is the rod? Got a good supplier to share? Thanks!
The question I always ask myself with these increment-by-thread jigs...why? Think about how many times you have to turn that crank to build one box or drawer... Meanwhile the old style jig does the same thing, faster, easier, sometimes complex is not better...
i agree if you want to get fast results on a deadline... but on the other side, there is something about building jigs that is so much fun and we have to build them all :-)
Watch the video, he doesn't turn the crank at all.... it's only there for the rare occasion that you need to zero in your start mark with the blade, and even then, you should never need to turn it more than 1 revolution to get the zero. Shouldn't need to be turned again unless there was a blade change. The reason they do the machines threaded rod is that it is very precise and will give you very tight consistent joints, even when, as he shows in the video you didn't watch, he changes finger size part way across the board.
What is the point of the wheel?
he tells you in the video
Love your video content; wishing the annoying music track was just on one speaker channel... I'll shut that channel off so I can still hear your good commentary.
Cool, but too technical for youtubers DIY.
Outstanding! And here I was thinking you were just some drunken bum with a web cam. My apologies. :-)
Что ты тарохтел, я твой язык не понемаю. Может быть выставиш чертежи. Тогда так много тарохтеть будет ни к чему.
Зараннее благодарю Viktor Kapetzke.
I thought Wandel overdid it. Stumpy ran it over, stopped, backed over it, ran it over again then repeated the process.
I think you are missing the point. It's not about making the simplest way to cut box joints. It's about the fun of the jig itself. Much like building marble machines or other hobbies. If you just want simple and effective, use a board with an indexing key.
why are you calling drilling boring? when you bore you use a single point cutting tool to enlarge a hole a drill is not a single point tool
"bore" (v.) to pierce with a turning or twisting movement of a tool. -Merriam-Webster online dictionary. (Since you said "enlarge a hole" I believe you are confusing the word "bore" with "ream" (v.) to enlarge, shape, or smooth out a hole.)
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) I'm coming from a machining aspect where boring a hole you use a single point cutting tool like a boring bar and enlarge a hole
I suppose the words are used differently in the two different industries. Interesting... Does "cold one" still mean "beer" among machinists?
I'm not trying to start anything. I was wondering why you called it boring, and yes it does. You don't have to get hyped up over terminology I just never heard anybody use it in the way you did. It's your video you do you I was just asking
I wasn't being sarcastic. I was genuinely agreeing with you that it may be different in the machinist world. And I was suggesting that, no matter what type of material we work with, we can still enjoy a cold one together. :)