Any time you manually turn it up over 2 degrees the aux which is the heat strips and the heat pump will run. you can change the settings from comfort to eco to let the heat pump only run to match the temp setting . if you have any question on how the Honeywell 8000 works call me at the Pensacola Johnstone supply.
What a well thought out system. It sounds like it's going to fit your needs perfectly and the effort the company did is awesome. That's a rarity now a days. Thank you for the vid and explanation, as always you make it so easy and logical to understand.
Well designed HVAC system! Quality install! You will be glad that you added the dehumidifier. Dampers & zones will give you more control. Ducts & seams sealed well. Float switches on the coil & pan! I like the Rheem units. Where you are, the heat pump was the way to go. The new heat pumps do a much better job than the older heat pumps. I doubt that you will ever use your emergency heat. I was trying to guess what size unit that you would need. The house is insulated so well. There were too many variables for me to guess/calculate the tonnage for your house. I am glad that you will be able to cool & heat your house without spending a fortune. Nice! I love to see quality work!
The multiple returns (one in each room) is set up much like a commercial building...kind of like like a doctor's office. Word of mouth...both good and bad...can make or break a company...very glad you are letting us know about the good ones :)
Hi Andrew, I'm so happy for you that the system is up and running. Sounds like you have the perfect set up to fit your needs and you will be happy with it for years to come. Working inside the house now with heat and air will be more comfortable. Take care and God Bless.
The last 4 days my system has not ran (other than the dehumidifier). It has stayed between 67-69 degrees every single day regardless of if it's warm or cold outside, this insulation is amazing!
Good video Andrew, great way to explain the Hvac....I agree the proof is in the pudding in July August and September. 1. please do not tell my wife about this upgrade.....lol she would loose her mind if she could have the bedroom at 60'ish in the summer. 2. Keep the great content going.
I've never seen AC ductwork done that nice before , every attic I have been in has been a rats nest laying across everywhere . Those guys did one heck of a nice job on it
I think so too, I'm use to it laying on the floor and ran the easiest way for them possible. These guys took their time and did the best they could with all the ductwork I have.
Nice! Thanks for the video. Only thing that I noticed is that you have a lot of dark areas under those trunks now, it might be worth running a couple of lights into those areas so you can do visual inspections during regular monitoring and maintenance more easily. On the issue with noise carrying through the vents. I experience that where I am now. It got pretty bad for a while. The HVAC contractor said that usually that's an issue with the dampers, they get the most use and can go bad faster, plus as the house settles over time, those trunks and branches can distort slightly over time which can make the dampers clang. I know that you like to experiment a bit. I have seen on youtube videos and also have read that providing a sun shelter for the outdoor heat exchanger can reduce how much electricity the unit uses. Maybe run it for a month without a cover and put a temporary cover over it and see if it makes any difference.
Most energy star homes are like this.. standard installation practices Taping & Sealing ductwork . Looks like a great installation. Thanks for the video.
Nice install. You will like having easy access to unit. I did a mechanical room for hvac units, water heater, and electrical. My only complaint about Honeywell thermostat is heat will turn on in time to get to certain temp and you’ll be sweating in bed. We really only need it to turn on for some heat flowing while getting ready for work. We’ve learned to trick it and set timer ahead of desired temp at certain time.
Andrew, Have you been keeping track of lumber futures? I'm hoping you are able to get your wood for the ceiling quickly before you have to pay outrageous prices for it. Lumber prices aren't looking good. Super nice hvac system. Yes, your explanation made perfect sense. Wise decision to split the humidity return.
Congrats Andrew on a fantastic HVAC system we don’t use systems like this in Brazil at all usually we work with individual split units even in the highest end homes. The amount of insulation you did is incredible I’m quite jealous :-) congrats for everything and happy new year buddy
with heat in Florida I would keep an eye on upstairs drip line I have the same setup and mine got stopped up with algae and caused pots on my bedroom ceiling
Nice so you getting near the finish line. I am happy for you bud. I like how you got spaghetti in the attic. I guess you need to do that test. And then you will get power and plumbing soon. So I lost my bet moving in by Christmas LoL. I wonder if you are adding real wood to the loft area for the flooring? And if you made some research of 4×8 sheets to finish the outside.
@@TKCL I like it. But how are the bugs that make nests in places like that? In my book you should cover it up. Use my dad's old trick screw in a 8 foot long 2x4 with a board thickness to allow you to slide the board up. It should be centered so you can slide up and level it.
Very clean install! The dehumidifier is a great upgrade for a humid climate! In Iowa we have extremely high humidity in the summer, temps of 100 deg and low temperatures to 15 deg below zero in the winter! Are you going to hook up the catch pan to a drain pipe?
I'm sure it was wired the correct way in "series" but just a suggestion to check with your HVAC tech who installed the units in the attic is to verify the two water overflow cut off safety switches are wired in "series" and not 'Parallel". The reason is if wired in parallel both safety switches must be tripped before the system will shut down to prevent water damage. Wired in series only one switch needs to detect water overflow and shut the system down to prevent water damage.
Also you were running the heat strips when you showed the thermostat. When it says AUX heat that is electric heat strips running. On a heat pump in heating if you go over 3° of room temperature it will cut aux heat on as well.
Mine says emergency for heat strips on the thermostat description. But I do remember my old system kicking on the heat strips if over 2 degrees from setpoint.
@The Kelley's Country Life correct there is a different in Emergency heat and Aux heat but both are cutting the heat strips on. Heat pumps thermostat operation is totally different than anything else. The 3° difference is the set point for Auxiliary heating above what heat the heat pump itself can produce. So anytime you exceed 3° of room temperature it will activate the heat strips along with the heat pump.
I'm a little concerned about the travel distance gor the bathroom exhaust. Ours holds moisture. This summer I'll be going straight up through the roof but I've heard positive review of and in line fans. Maybe my issues are do to temp up north during the colder months.
No I don't yet, I'm still waiting on my friends schedule to free up for installation. Since I wired the house with temporary power, I'm not in any rush for it.
Nice job there Andrew, I have a question so when the humidity reaches the set point and turns off how are you still getting air turn over in the house? What I see people doing is installing ERV with the dehumidifier so that you can turn over the air in the house
The dehumidifier is the only source of air turnover currently, but being in such a humid state (Florida) I'm already noticing it runs a lot. I don't think it will be a problem unless we get a lot of cold days in a row.
Curious if you could draw us a little diagram. I assume you have some sort of push pull configuration to circulate air. You have an unusual case where you have a separate dehumidifier running and you have expressed the importance of not having the two systems share lines. Do you have some sort of High low configuration where AC is dumped down and dehumidifier pulls low or something else. Fascinating stuff. My place is not well insulated so my frame of reference is much more complicated, it would be cool to see what a "near" lab environment would be. I say that in jest but you know what I mean.
I agree, it's because I accidentally put the temperature setpoint down several degrees lower than the actual temperature. Under normal circumstances it shouldn't kick on.
@@TKCL oh yeah that’d do it. I always have to remind people just wait for the house to heat up. Just because you came home and the house is 64F, setting the thermostat to 80 won’t make it heat faster. Though it does as it uses 10kW strip heat, but they don’t need to know that haha
@@TKCL I remember you said you’re in Florida. What’s the coldest it gets? Our system only uses the aux heat when it goes into a 5 minute defrost cycle to keep cold air from blowing inside when it is trying to melt the ice off the coils outside. But the coils only freeze up when it runs for over 45 minutes straight when it’s below 40 out. Last week we had a week of 20’s… and that thing was defrosting every 30 minutes
Dehumidifier has its own return piped into the laundry room. That's our main entrance and highest humidity room in the house. It discharges into the return of the main unit. It can run with or without the main hvac being on because it has its own powerful fan.
@@TKCL WOW! Thanks for the quick reply! Stumbled across all your videos although I’d seen your ice maker build- thought it was clever! Just watched Icemaker 2.0 too… good luck with ya fishin! As for the HVAC blower, AprilAire’s installation guide says for ducted installations ya SHOULD have the blower running whenever the dehumidifier is running (to push the dry air out to your house better… mix up ALL the air) and their units have terminals TO connect it to your HVAC’s control board… your 0.64 ACH is incredible! Maybe your tight house wouldn’t matter but YOU may wanna consider seeing if you feel a difference with the blower (or FAN on your thermostat) ON versus how it’s been as currently configured. BTW, does your smart Honeywell thermostat provide data on run times (ie cool, fan and possibly dehumidifier) which ya could assess? THANKS for such an expansive library of videos 👍
Let me see if I can make some sense of this. Don’t let the local energy company have control of the thermostats that’s what they’re doing here you set your thermostat for 74° and they decide it should run at 78. Pay attention to who controls your thermostat if you don’t when your Internet goes down you’ll have no control over your thermostat I hope this has been helpful.
The energy companies can offer a tax break people fall for it they don’t realize what’s going on until they wake up at night and it’s 78° when you set it for 74 it can be bypassed you got to get on the Internet find out how to do it will take 10 to 15 minutes
@@TKCL gotcha. If you need any appliance advice feel free to reach out. I own an appliance sales and service business and would be happy to give any advice to help with your appliance purchases. Doing great work sir!
Remember the longer a split runs the more efficient and energy saving will be gained. You NEVER want your unit short cycling, meaning your compressor starting, stopping. Your scroll compressor will burn out early instead of the usual 25 years; R410A, all new refrigerants, especially blended needs a minimum of 15 minutes to heat up the Oils, Liquid, Gas vapor change etc. with proper maintenance cleaning condenser, removing your OFM from the unit and using a garden hose with light pressure clean it from the inside towards the outside every 6 months, if in a HIGH LEVEL high wind area is a upmost important factor for condensers!!... Widowmaker "E Pluribus Unum" D'n Deus Le' Vult!!...
That's why we're running such a small system and did that efficiency form. Most people think a bigger AC is better because it'll run less, like you said it's the exact opposite.
@@TKCL bathroom exhaust t-fin they are known to have decrease in velocity over feet. The building I'm currently on we only use 2 feet then hard pipe it out the building to increase efficiency of the exhaust fan aka fart fan as we call it
@@TKCL other than that you're AC contractor did a fantastic job! I would recommend u keep up on preventative maintenance on you're dehumidifier and Central AC but really something you should have to worry about since it's brand new
I can tell you that with either bathroom fan on the damper is blown open outside and I feel a tremendous amount of air being sucked in through my open door handle holes. They are definitely moving air.
Another nice thing about that thermostat is the power companies can also help you save money and energy by setting your thermostats to what they believe you need.
Hi, Congratulations it looks really awesome! but I hope you didn't have to pay much more than 10 to 12k or so ??? Well since you asked... here goes a couple things, A -Having the AC in the attic (or the basement or both for two story homes) is the norm, so given almost no basements in Fla why do you infer its unusual? B -Re harmful effects from a lack of sufficient outside air, the issue is three fold. 1st is exhaled carbon dioxide buildup (anything over 0.1% makes you sleepy) "air" is only ~21% oxygen. 2nd anything below ~19.5 % is considered oxygen deficient. 3rd Breathing in too much nitrogen can be dangerous to your blood chemistry. And of course oxygen is constantly consumed by people, pets and open flames. But with all that said your build is not completely air tight as you have the kitchen stove hood and the clothes dryer vents open to the outside so you will never have a noticeable positive pressure differential problem ie difficultly opening and closing the external doors. C - The external part of the AC is called the condenser or the condensing unit where the hot compressed refrigerant is turned back into liquid to disapate the heat collected by the evaporator when in cooling mode as gases give off heat when changed from a gaseous to a liquid state. Or vice-versa in reverse, when in heating mode refrigerant absorbs heat when compressed as it changes state from a liquid to a vapor The efficiency of any AC system is completely dependent on the performance of the fins in both the evaporator and condenser coils, in fact in commercial units they are designed 80% Beyond what is required in anticipation that its performance will drop down to 20% over time typically the fins are covered with an anti-corrosion gold nano coating synthesized from titanium dioxide to protect the fins from rusting and corrosion to maintain their heat exchange efficiency as long as possible. It may sound extreme but your best bet is to prevent the outdoor condenser as much as possible from getting wet and developing mold and corrosion, wash it down regularly with an antibacterial agent such as ... ASIN. B08T6HSFJL D - a small criticism re the intake duct for the dehumidifier, the damper should optimally be placed as close as possible to the penetration point. It looks like you have 10 to 15 ft (or more?) of potentially 100 plus degree air and lots of space for bugs n critters to take up residence in your conditioned space for absolutely no reason at all when it could be a mere eight inches away instead. As opposed to the one for the main air handler which is nice and close. Also is there a replaceable filter on the dehumidifier that you can easily get too? and also a screen on the lurvered vents outside for both? E - Not to knock it as it is awesome but, the second zone in the bedroom as opposed to a simple rather inexpensive dedicated high seer possibly even DIY type Mr Cool mini split system. ASIN B083R2XNKD In reality the second Zone probably cost you far more then the 1500 bucks you quoted as between the multi zone controler, extra wiring, programing, duck work, two or more extra dampers, extra thermostat, install labor, plus recurring ongoing annual maintenance contract costs is no way only 1500 bucks more, imho of course, lol. Ha it's soo damn easy to play Monday morning quarterback sitting on my fat ass from my couch, with RUclips 😆 🤣 LOL !!!! But as I said it's awesome and you got Exactly what YOU wanted, so good for you'll 👍 enjoy it !!!!!!!! God bless 🙏
The concern for any HVAC system in the Attic is potential for water spill over and water damage. As for the damper you were speaking about, it won't be a problem where it's located, because there is a fine mesh screen on the intake on the outside of the house to keep pests or rodents from coming in. There's also a hood over the intake so no concern for rain blowing in. As for doing the second Zone, there is a major reason why we had to choose to do that over a mini split unit. So if we did a mini split, whatever tonnage it was would have to take away from our main unit. The way the rule reads whatever the efficiency engineer states, that is the maximum capacity for the home, whether it's one unit or multiple HVAC units.
@@TKCL . Hey Re the intake line, the main point is that the extended long cavity space -☆before the damper ☆- creates a wide open void for hot humid external air to enter and collect creating a number of totally unnecessary problems... 1 - Major wasted energy, the conditioned space is CONSTANTLY sucking the heat out of the dead air space (before the damper) within that NON INSULATED duct, and as soon as it does the heat gets replaced from the outside until and unless it reaches an equilibrium with the outside temperature. 2- While that's happening the interior of the duct is again Constantly "sweating" condensation formed by you paying to cool it and pouring water into the dehumidifier FAR in excess of what would simply be in the fresh air supply. 3- Although much of this condensation will simply drain out masquerading as output of the dehumidifier, it will supercharge the incoming air with humidity requiring the unit to work at maximum output to attempt to dry it out. 4- This dark,damp and humid enclosed space will become an absolutely perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew to thrive in the nooks and crannies of all the interior joints bends and curves of the duct overtime, sucking in and blowing out spores throughout the interior of the entire system and your home. Question: Why did you not simply place the penetration point for this intake right where it stands on that side of the house? You had to add a second new one when you decided on the dehumidifier correct? Did Mr Terry not recommend placing it next to the unit? He should know better. It would only be 3 or 4 ft in total max, and it could be Insulated FLEX which you could easily inspect and or replace. Then you could get rid of that entire unnecessary and long run with the associated problems. Or at the very least simply move the damper as close to the penetration as possible. Re: the mini split in the bedroom... you could have simply left it out of the plan and added it after you pulled the permit, it's your house. Are you sorry you asked for comments yet¿ 😬 Good luck 👍
Plans changed several times throughout the design and installation. From equipment, to locations ect. We did the best we could with constant upgrades/equipment changes for the home.
@@TKCL . The simplest "fix" imho is to add a short intake right next to it and seal off the original before the mold grows, and I would get it for free from the contractor. Also see if your homeowners insurance covers mold abatement. Contractors get sued for this all the time forcing them to "change their name and phone number" Just say'en Good luck 👍 💓
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It *is* real nice to see a job well done and not as a special request but as a matter of course.
Absolutely!
The only thing I have to say is "WOW". That is a nice system. Professional install and it looks cool (get it) 🥶. Very happy for guys.
Thank you
Any time you manually turn it up over 2 degrees the aux which is the heat strips and the heat pump will run. you can change the settings from comfort to eco to let the heat pump only run to match the temp setting . if you have any question on how the Honeywell 8000 works call me at the Pensacola Johnstone supply.
Appreciate that, I do have a few questions about making adjustments, but I'm locked out by a pass code. I guess my installer put one in?
What a well thought out system. It sounds like it's going to fit your needs perfectly and the effort the company did is awesome. That's a rarity now a days. Thank you for the vid and explanation, as always you make it so easy and logical to understand.
Thank you for watching
Well designed HVAC system! Quality install! You will be glad that you added the dehumidifier. Dampers & zones will give you more control. Ducts & seams sealed well. Float switches on the coil & pan! I like the Rheem units. Where you are, the heat pump was the way to go. The new heat pumps do a much better job than the older heat pumps. I doubt that you will ever use your emergency heat. I was trying to guess what size unit that you would need. The house is insulated so well. There were too many variables for me to guess/calculate the tonnage for your house. I am glad that you will be able to cool & heat your house without spending a fortune. Nice! I love to see quality work!
Thank you for watching! We are very pleased with the system.
That's really Cool and warm too...........
The multiple returns (one in each room) is set up much like a commercial building...kind of like like a doctor's office.
Word of mouth...both good and bad...can make or break a company...very glad you are letting us know about the good ones :)
That will save you a lot of money down the road, nice set UP
Thanks
Great video Andrew.Thankyou!! You explain things very well. Your friend from South Western Ontario🇨🇦
Thank you for watching
Wow a fantastic job and set up. This is Mike Holmes and this old house worthy lol .
Thanks 😉
Oh, I am so happy that you found a company to fit your OCD overdoer's standards:))) I enjoyed watching you show it all with pride and joy:))))
Yes me too!
Hi Andrew, I'm so happy for you that the system is up and running. Sounds like you have the perfect set up to fit your needs and you will be happy with it for years to come. Working inside the house now with heat and air will be more comfortable. Take care and God Bless.
So happy to have this up and running. Take care, God bless!
“Y’all are building a cooler” 😂😂😂 I got a kick out of that!
That's what he literally said, and he was very concerned when he said it 😁
The last 4 days my system has not ran (other than the dehumidifier). It has stayed between 67-69 degrees every single day regardless of if it's warm or cold outside, this insulation is amazing!
Lol, man that’s awesome sounds like a excellent combination
Oh yeh new tool 1/2” impact driver DeWalt DCF921B.. 450 ft lb torque and fits in the palm of your hand 👀 $110
Where did you find it for $110? 🤔
Great system, people so often mis- size the air and don’t get the whole conditioning that it does. You seem to have the perfect setups.
Just one more thing done so you can get into your new home
Correct!
Good video Andrew, great way to explain the Hvac....I agree the proof is in the pudding in July August and September. 1. please do not tell my wife about this upgrade.....lol she would loose her mind if she could have the bedroom at 60'ish in the summer. 2. Keep the great content going.
Your missing out, we love a cold bedroom!
Looking forward to hearing what your highest energy bill is once you start running the HVAC. Should be impressive, especially for Florida heat.
Im curious about that myself.
Nice system there for sure . Love to see quality workmanship like that myself . I’m sure you are gonna love it . Man it was quiet. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Very quiet, far more than I was expecting.
Seems like a well thought out and well put together system for you. Those heat pumps are interesting.
Yoooohooooo! We have a heartbeat.
The extras with sealing is per code and common practice in most areas.
Good to know
look like they did a good job. be bless.
Thanks
I am really happy for you guys that you have hvac complete. The AC and heat will be nice while you finish your home. 😀
Yes very exciting!
Great set up ! It will be worth it down the road !
I think so too, I love having this much control.
Sounds like a well thought out system. 👍💞
This was great episode I'm considering building a pole barn house now
Glad you enjoyed it!
45% in the south is perfect balance of humidity in the summer. In the winter in heavy heating we recommend 50%.
Sounds great, I'll set there and see how it feels.
It looks good another great video!
Thank you for watching
I've never seen AC ductwork done that nice before , every attic I have been in has been a rats nest laying across everywhere . Those guys did one heck of a nice job on it
I think so too, I'm use to it laying on the floor and ran the easiest way for them possible. These guys took their time and did the best they could with all the ductwork I have.
Nice! Thanks for the video. Only thing that I noticed is that you have a lot of dark areas under those trunks now, it might be worth running a couple of lights into those areas so you can do visual inspections during regular monitoring and maintenance more easily. On the issue with noise carrying through the vents. I experience that where I am now. It got pretty bad for a while. The HVAC contractor said that usually that's an issue with the dampers, they get the most use and can go bad faster, plus as the house settles over time, those trunks and branches can distort slightly over time which can make the dampers clang.
I know that you like to experiment a bit. I have seen on youtube videos and also have read that providing a sun shelter for the outdoor heat exchanger can reduce how much electricity the unit uses. Maybe run it for a month without a cover and put a temporary cover over it and see if it makes any difference.
I like the cover idea!
Most energy star homes are like this.. standard installation practices
Taping & Sealing ductwork . Looks like a great installation. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching
Nice install. You will like having easy access to unit. I did a mechanical room for hvac units, water heater, and electrical. My only complaint about Honeywell thermostat is heat will turn on in time to get to certain temp and you’ll be sweating in bed. We really only need it to turn on for some heat flowing while getting ready for work. We’ve learned to trick it and set timer ahead of desired temp at certain time.
Coming along nicely 👍
Sure is, thanks!
Great video and a great hvac system. I can see the craftsmanship in the finished product. Good choice
Thank you for watching
The cabinets that you bought would be great in the laundry room or the pantry! Nice home ! It should be ready for Valentine's day 😍😍😍
I had a friend reach out to me about them.
Hi, Andrew! Amazingly efficient and well thought out system. See you later.
Thank you for watching
great install! The remote HVAC control is an excellent tool!! I used to pre-wire for remote pool temp control as well!!
Great set up!
Thanks
Andrew, Have you been keeping track of lumber futures? I'm hoping you are able to get your wood for the ceiling quickly before you have to pay outrageous prices for it. Lumber prices aren't looking good.
Super nice hvac system. Yes, your explanation made perfect sense. Wise decision to split the humidity return.
I've been hearing it's predicted to double or triple over the next few months. I am probably going next week to get my ceiling lumber.
Congrats Andrew on a fantastic HVAC system we don’t use systems like this in Brazil at all usually we work with individual split units even in the highest end homes. The amount of insulation you did is incredible I’m quite jealous :-) congrats for everything and happy new year buddy
Thank you for watching, happy new year!
with heat in Florida I would keep an eye on upstairs drip line I have the same setup and mine got stopped up with algae and caused pots on my bedroom ceiling
It definitely happenes, that's why I have multiple kill switches in case the line backs up.
Nice so you getting near the finish line. I am happy for you bud. I like how you got spaghetti in the attic. I guess you need to do that test. And then you will get power and plumbing soon. So I lost my bet moving in by Christmas LoL. I wonder if you are adding real wood to the loft area for the flooring? And if you made some research of 4×8 sheets to finish the outside.
Same laminate flooring for the loft as downstairs. Just thinking about painting the outside ceiling for now and focusing on the inside.
@@TKCL I like it. But how are the bugs that make nests in places like that? In my book you should cover it up. Use my dad's old trick screw in a 8 foot long 2x4 with a board thickness to allow you to slide the board up. It should be centered so you can slide up and level it.
Hi Andrew, the unit that you refer to as a dehumidifier, is that actually an ERV?
Very clean install! The dehumidifier is a great upgrade for a humid climate! In Iowa we have extremely high humidity in the summer, temps of 100 deg and low temperatures to 15 deg below zero in the winter!
Are you going to hook up the catch pan to a drain pipe?
Yes I am planning a secondary drain for both pans.
Well wonder how that long pipe outside will do when it is discharging condensation in freezing temps. 🤔
Being in Florida I guess that may not be much of an issue.
Curious about that myself, but only a handful of days a year it's below freezing here.
I'm sure it was wired the correct way in "series" but just a suggestion to check with your HVAC tech who installed the units in the attic is to verify the two water overflow cut off safety switches are wired in "series" and not 'Parallel". The reason is if wired in parallel both safety switches must be tripped before the system will shut down to prevent water damage. Wired in series only one switch needs to detect water overflow and shut the system down to prevent water damage.
I can check that easily myself, thanks!
Also you were running the heat strips when you showed the thermostat. When it says AUX heat that is electric heat strips running. On a heat pump in heating if you go over 3° of room temperature it will cut aux heat on as well.
Mine says emergency for heat strips on the thermostat description. But I do remember my old system kicking on the heat strips if over 2 degrees from setpoint.
@The Kelley's Country Life correct there is a different in Emergency heat and Aux heat but both are cutting the heat strips on. Heat pumps thermostat operation is totally different than anything else. The 3° difference is the set point for Auxiliary heating above what heat the heat pump itself can produce. So anytime you exceed 3° of room temperature it will activate the heat strips along with the heat pump.
Good to know, especially when I'm running on my generator.
I'm a little concerned about the travel distance gor the bathroom exhaust. Ours holds moisture. This summer I'll be going straight up through the roof but I've heard positive review of and in line fans. Maybe my issues are do to temp up north during the colder months.
I've been curious about that myself, I can always put a trap in insulate the lines ect.
Just being curious but why did you install a pull down attic access ladder when you have walk in access from the loft? Great job love the videos.
I ran into a code issue and can't currently install stairs to the attic. Needed some sort of access.
👍 Andrew nice system(s) hope it last for years to come. Do you have update or news concerning your septic system?
No I don't yet, I'm still waiting on my friends schedule to free up for installation. Since I wired the house with temporary power, I'm not in any rush for it.
Nice job there Andrew, I have a question so when the humidity reaches the set point and turns off how are you still getting air turn over in the house? What I see people doing is installing ERV with the dehumidifier so that you can turn over the air in the house
The dehumidifier is the only source of air turnover currently, but being in such a humid state (Florida) I'm already noticing it runs a lot. I don't think it will be a problem unless we get a lot of cold days in a row.
Curious if you could draw us a little diagram. I assume you have some sort of push pull configuration to circulate air. You have an unusual case where you have a separate dehumidifier running and you have expressed the importance of not having the two systems share lines. Do you have some sort of High low configuration where AC is dumped down and dehumidifier pulls low or something else. Fascinating stuff. My place is not well insulated so my frame of reference is much more complicated, it would be cool to see what a "near" lab environment would be. I say that in jest but you know what I mean.
To be honest I'm not exactly sure, I know there was some special routing of intake and exit on the main unit.
@@TKCL Fair enough.
You need to put the same wood stove that Keeping it Dutch is putting in his new place
I'd never be able to run a stove in this house, it's insulated way too much for one.
Noticed you had auxheat, or the strip heater on. That thing burns power and uses tons of energy
I leave mine to off
I agree, it's because I accidentally put the temperature setpoint down several degrees lower than the actual temperature. Under normal circumstances it shouldn't kick on.
@@TKCL oh yeah that’d do it. I always have to remind people just wait for the house to heat up. Just because you came home and the house is 64F, setting the thermostat to 80 won’t make it heat faster. Though it does as it uses 10kW strip heat, but they don’t need to know that haha
Mine is only a 5kw, but I still don't need to use it.
@@TKCL I remember you said you’re in Florida. What’s the coldest it gets?
Our system only uses the aux heat when it goes into a 5 minute defrost cycle to keep cold air from blowing inside when it is trying to melt the ice off the coils outside. But the coils only freeze up when it runs for over 45 minutes straight when it’s below 40 out.
Last week we had a week of 20’s… and that thing was defrosting every 30 minutes
The next three mornings will be in the 30s here, we usually see several days in the 20s every winter too.
Looks awesome, very interested to see how it performs. How many square feet is the house?
Down stairs is 1500, loft is another 200.
1) Does the supply from the dehumidifier feed into the HVAC’s return or supply?
2) Does the HVAC blower run when the dehumidifier runs?
Dehumidifier has its own return piped into the laundry room. That's our main entrance and highest humidity room in the house. It discharges into the return of the main unit. It can run with or without the main hvac being on because it has its own powerful fan.
@@TKCL WOW! Thanks for the quick reply! Stumbled across all your videos although I’d seen your ice maker build- thought it was clever! Just watched Icemaker 2.0 too… good luck with ya fishin! As for the HVAC blower, AprilAire’s installation guide says for ducted installations ya SHOULD have the blower running whenever the dehumidifier is running (to push the dry air out to your house better… mix up ALL the air) and their units have terminals TO connect it to your HVAC’s control board… your 0.64 ACH is incredible! Maybe your tight house wouldn’t matter but YOU may wanna consider seeing if you feel a difference with the blower (or FAN on your thermostat) ON versus how it’s been as currently configured. BTW, does your smart Honeywell thermostat provide data on run times (ie cool, fan and possibly dehumidifier) which ya could assess? THANKS for such an expansive library of videos 👍
Let me see if I can make some sense of this. Don’t let the local energy company have control of the thermostats that’s what they’re doing here you set your thermostat for 74° and they decide it should run at 78. Pay attention to who controls your thermostat if you don’t when your Internet goes down you’ll have no control over your thermostat I hope this has been helpful.
Oh wow, no way I'd ever give them control! That's just mind blowing to me to allow someone else control my comfort and what I paid for.
The energy companies can offer a tax break people fall for it they don’t realize what’s going on until they wake up at night and it’s 78° when you set it for 74 it can be bypassed you got to get on the Internet find out how to do it will take 10 to 15 minutes
I'll never accept that, actually those kinds of things would be exactly what would drive me to solar.
Definitely not a typical install, lots of bells and whistles. Life time investment, hope they included a yearly cleaning and tuneup.
I do believe the yearly is extra.
What's the timeline for the installation of the septic system?
Should start Monday 🤞
Where is your output for your kitchen exhaust vent?
It's already through wall, but I have not cut through the ceiling yet.
@@TKCL gotcha. If you need any appliance advice feel free to reach out. I own an appliance sales and service business and would be happy to give any advice to help with your appliance purchases. Doing great work sir!
Do you have any regrets to using spray foam on your exterior walls and your roof deck?
Zero, my bills have been awesome. Just make sure you control you humidity.
@TKCL awesome. Thank you
Is this an inverter system?
Nope, basic split unit.
What are you doing with the xtra cabinets
A friend reached out to me about them.
Remember the longer a split runs the more efficient and energy saving will be gained. You NEVER want your unit short cycling, meaning your compressor starting, stopping. Your scroll compressor will burn out early instead of the usual 25 years; R410A, all new refrigerants, especially blended needs a minimum of 15 minutes to heat up the Oils, Liquid, Gas vapor change etc.
with proper maintenance cleaning condenser, removing your OFM from the unit and using a garden hose with light pressure clean it from the inside towards the outside every 6 months, if in a HIGH LEVEL high wind area is a upmost important factor for condensers!!... Widowmaker
"E Pluribus Unum" D'n Deus Le' Vult!!...
That's why we're running such a small system and did that efficiency form. Most people think a bigger AC is better because it'll run less, like you said it's the exact opposite.
As HVAC new construction I don't like how that exhaust is ran it has to many bends and and it loses velocity over distance
AC supply or bathroom exhaust?
@@TKCL bathroom exhaust t-fin they are known to have decrease in velocity over feet. The building I'm currently on we only use 2 feet then hard pipe it out the building to increase efficiency of the exhaust fan aka fart fan as we call it
@@TKCL other than that you're AC contractor did a fantastic job! I would recommend u keep up on preventative maintenance on you're dehumidifier and Central AC but really something you should have to worry about since it's brand new
I can tell you that with either bathroom fan on the damper is blown open outside and I feel a tremendous amount of air being sucked in through my open door handle holes. They are definitely moving air.
@@TKCL then you should be fine with what that
Another nice thing about that thermostat is the power companies can also help you save money and energy by setting your thermostats to what they believe you need.
Frigg them. I tell the truth to all contractors and customers NEVER give them your rights!!... Widowmaker
"E Pluribus Unum" D'n Deus Le' Vult!!...
👍👍👍👍👍❤️
Looks like an alien has taken over your attic. Hope it performs as well as you need it to.
Lol yeah we did add a lot of goodies.
Hi,
Congratulations it looks really awesome! but I hope you didn't have to pay much more than 10 to 12k or so ???
Well since you asked... here goes a couple things,
A -Having the AC in the attic (or the basement or both for two story homes) is the norm, so given almost no basements in Fla why do you infer its unusual?
B -Re harmful effects from a lack of sufficient outside air, the issue is three fold.
1st is exhaled carbon dioxide buildup (anything over 0.1% makes you sleepy) "air" is only ~21% oxygen.
2nd anything below ~19.5 % is considered oxygen deficient.
3rd Breathing in too much nitrogen can be dangerous to your blood chemistry.
And of course oxygen is constantly consumed by people, pets and open flames.
But with all that said your build is not completely air tight as you have the kitchen stove hood and the clothes dryer vents open to the outside so you will never have a noticeable positive pressure differential problem ie difficultly opening and closing the external doors.
C - The external part of the AC is called the condenser or the condensing unit where the hot compressed refrigerant is turned back into liquid to disapate the heat collected by the evaporator when in cooling mode as gases give off heat when changed from a gaseous to a liquid state.
Or
vice-versa in reverse, when in heating mode refrigerant absorbs heat when compressed as it changes state from a liquid to a vapor
The efficiency of any AC system is completely dependent on the performance of the fins in both the evaporator and condenser coils, in fact in commercial units they are designed 80% Beyond what is required in anticipation that its performance will drop down to 20% over time typically the fins are covered with an anti-corrosion gold nano coating synthesized from titanium dioxide to protect the fins from rusting and corrosion to maintain their heat exchange efficiency as long as possible.
It may sound extreme but your best bet is to prevent the outdoor condenser as much as possible from getting wet and developing mold and corrosion, wash it down regularly with an antibacterial agent such as ...
ASIN. B08T6HSFJL
D - a small criticism re the intake duct for the dehumidifier, the damper should optimally be placed as close as possible to the penetration point. It looks like you have 10 to 15 ft (or more?) of potentially 100 plus degree air and lots of space for bugs n critters to take up residence in your conditioned space for absolutely no reason at all when it could be a mere eight inches away instead. As opposed to the one for the main air handler which is nice and close. Also is there a replaceable filter on the dehumidifier that you can easily get too? and also a screen on the lurvered vents outside for both?
E - Not to knock it as it is awesome but, the second zone in the bedroom as opposed to a simple rather inexpensive dedicated high seer possibly even DIY type Mr Cool mini split system.
ASIN B083R2XNKD
In reality the second Zone probably cost you far more then the 1500 bucks you quoted as between the multi zone controler, extra wiring, programing, duck work, two or more extra dampers, extra thermostat, install labor, plus recurring ongoing annual maintenance contract costs is no way only 1500 bucks more,
imho of course, lol.
Ha it's soo damn easy to play Monday morning quarterback sitting on my fat ass from my couch, with RUclips 😆 🤣 LOL !!!!
But as I said it's awesome and you got Exactly what YOU wanted, so good for you'll 👍 enjoy it !!!!!!!!
God bless 🙏
The concern for any HVAC system in the Attic is potential for water spill over and water damage. As for the damper you were speaking about, it won't be a problem where it's located, because there is a fine mesh screen on the intake on the outside of the house to keep pests or rodents from coming in. There's also a hood over the intake so no concern for rain blowing in. As for doing the second Zone, there is a major reason why we had to choose to do that over a mini split unit. So if we did a mini split, whatever tonnage it was would have to take away from our main unit. The way the rule reads whatever the efficiency engineer states, that is the maximum capacity for the home, whether it's one unit or multiple HVAC units.
@@TKCL
.
Hey
Re the intake line, the main point is that the extended long cavity space
-☆before the damper ☆-
creates a wide open void for hot humid external air to enter and collect creating a number of totally unnecessary problems...
1 - Major wasted energy, the conditioned space is CONSTANTLY sucking the heat out of the dead air space (before the damper) within that NON INSULATED duct, and as soon as it does the heat gets replaced from the outside until and unless it reaches an equilibrium with the outside temperature.
2- While that's happening the interior of the duct is again Constantly "sweating" condensation formed by you paying to cool it and pouring water into the dehumidifier FAR in excess of what would simply be in the fresh air supply.
3- Although much of this condensation will simply drain out masquerading as output of the dehumidifier, it will supercharge the incoming air with humidity requiring the unit to work at maximum output to attempt to dry it out.
4- This dark,damp and humid enclosed space will become an absolutely perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew to thrive in the nooks and crannies of all the interior joints bends and curves of the duct overtime, sucking in and blowing out spores throughout the interior of the entire system and your home.
Question: Why did you not simply place the penetration point for this intake right where it stands on that side of the house? You had to add a second new one when you decided on the dehumidifier correct? Did Mr Terry not recommend placing it next to the unit? He should know better.
It would only be 3 or 4 ft in total max, and it could be Insulated FLEX which you could easily inspect and or replace.
Then you could get rid of that entire unnecessary and long run with the associated problems.
Or at the very least simply move the damper as close to the penetration as possible.
Re: the mini split in the bedroom... you could have simply left it out of the plan and added it after you pulled the permit, it's your house.
Are you sorry you asked for comments yet¿ 😬
Good luck 👍
Plans changed several times throughout the design and installation. From equipment, to locations ect. We did the best we could with constant upgrades/equipment changes for the home.
@@TKCL
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The simplest "fix" imho is to add a short intake right next to it and seal off the original before the mold grows, and I would get it for free from the contractor.
Also see if your homeowners insurance covers mold abatement.
Contractors get sued for this all the time forcing them to "change their name and phone number"
Just say'en
Good luck 👍 💓
Where are your kid's rooms? You haven't talked about them.
No kids, not possible due to medical complications.
Wow looks complicated. Ducts galore.
I did add a lot to it, but I think it it will be worth it.