Warhammer vs 3d Printing. Should GW be worried? (Creality Halot Mage Pro)
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2023
- Today we are going to build AND print a Warhammer 40k Sisters of battle Combat Patrol box to see if Games Workshop really needs to be worried about this whole 3D printing thing. The answer is more nuanced than you may think.
Affiliate links:
Creality Halot Mage Pro - shrsl.com/44q1h
UW-02 Washing/Curing Machine - shrsl.com/44q1l
Creality Fast Resin: shrsl.com/44q1o
If you want to actually learn how to print, check out these legends:
@NatesMiniatures and @battlebrothersam
Support me on Patreon if you want, or don't, you're call. It'd be appreciated and helpful: / ccminis 
Игры
After your rinse cycle, you can dip them in hot water for an easier time of removing supports
I'll give that a shot, thanks!
@@CCMinis It works very well be careful on some thin bits but it is fine and they just pop off :-)
@@CCMinis I've done the hot water tricks for a couple of years, but recently found that using a hairdryer is... Less wet (?) And the mini stays warm just the right time to take the supports off
Or just make the connecting tips a wee bit smaller
Oops sorry for the essay - I was trying to be helpful! Someone has probably already said all of this it, but get a magnetic build plate that you can bend to pop prints off - so much easier. I also use a 2 stage dip process, I use a small tub of alcohol to get the majority of the resin off first then I use the wash station. Keeps it cleaner for longer. When they start to get too cloudy I cure it in the sun and use a thin gauze/muslin to filter out the cured resin bits so I don't have to worry about disposing of the liquid. I've been using the same alcohol for a year and a half. I use water thats not long boiled and dunk for 10-20 seconds, it'll make the supports break away cleaner. However if your model has some very thin parts, like a spear, depending on my experience of similar models I either dunk it for a few seconds to remove those supports, or I do it cold, or I do that part after curing and use snips. I can't be bothered glueing fiddly parts back on so I'd rather be safe and avoid the hassle. Always keep a base/support that you've removed on standby because if you have a fail and need to clean your FEP then you'd drain most of the resin, then place the base/support into a corner before doing a cleaning process. Then you can use that to lever off the sheet of cured resin easily. Maybe I'm just clumsy, but the whole process is always much messier than youtube makes it out to be haha - I have paper towels on trays to sit models on for drying and I always have a clean space with a paper towel to carefully place my vat onto if I need to remove it. Also have a way to filter your resin if you have to remove it from a vat after a fail so you don't have chunks of cured resin going back into the bottle. To be honest if I have to remove resin I put it into a separate bottle to avoid accidentally contaminating the new resin, just in case. Hope some of this was helpful! I tell you where printing is a better option - when specialist middle earth units cost £36 for 3 dudes in finecast.... no thanks, I'll print for 75 pence instead! Nice video.
Thanks for the tips! Really appreciate it
Nice work, N! I'm loving the production value and smooth jazz overtones on your videos. This was fun!
Thanks T-Nu!
Fantastic comparison video brother, I feel you when having to turn off the aircon during filming lol. Thanks for the shoutout 😍
you got it Nate!
love the video!
A few printing tips.
1. To get te print of the printingbed, put the bed on a surfice (i use a cuttingmat with papertowels). Now you can put more force on it.
2. When taking of the supports, put the mini is hot water first for a few minutes. it really help getting te supports off even easyer. It also helps with the nubbs the stay behinde (underside off the tank). if you do this make sure teh minis are completly dry. Otherwis it can leave white residu.
3. a bit of sanding makes te resin minis stick better with superglue
Thanks for the advice!
So on the topic of the smell: Do not work with 3D printer resin without a respirator equipped with VOC cartridges (3M 6001 cartridges are what I use). Sure it's fine now, but your reactions to chemicals can worsen over time and an air purifier is no substitute for PPE and a fume hood. Always respect the chemicals you work with.
as others have said for sticking to the plate you can reduce your initial layers, alternatively you can get a magnetic build plate (if your using the same printer) then you can just bend the plate to pop off the models with very little difficulty. Also when removing supports try submerging them in hot water to soften the resin which should reduce scaring and breaks.
Thank you!
The other thing you can do before support removal is hit the minis with a heat gun or even a hot hair dryer. Works the same as the hot water trick mentioned, but then you don't have to deal with properly disposing of resin water after.
Thanks for the tip!
To make it easier to remove prints you can install a steel spring magnetic build plate.
In response to the title. They have a healthy amount of brand loyalists, and circuit of venues they control who can play with what. They don't need to worry about 3d printing.
Also as a miniature printing hobbyist myself I can't even find reason to print their stuff. I only ever did it for friends. There is better subjects to print and if I want to buy a GW model for cheap people are always selling them online. Just strip the paint and go.
My favorite projects to print are space ships with interiors in 28mm scale. I can't get enough of them. I already did 3. Its more like dollhousing than wargaming or even rpg stuff but whatever its just fun. In fact the dollhousing aspect made me start to look into small articulated figures to play around and print. Maybe in 1/35 scale or close to that.
Flex plates are amazing for getting the prints off easier. Mine even came with 2 plates so I can instantly get another print going.
Yes, get a flexplate
I'll look for one soon, thank you!
@@CCMinis get a wham bam. They're expensive compared to some models but they are hands down the best.
For being able to pop them off the build plate easier, you can buy a magnet plate that flexes and they then can pop right off the build plate.
Sweet! I'll look out for one, thank you for the tip
@@CCMinis no problem
2:55 The amount of plastic has to be as equal as possible in each half/quarter (depends on the gates) of the sprue due to the way they're produced. Meaning that the computer does the work as to where to place everything even if it's not intuitive to cut it out, that way there'll be less production errors and longer lasting molds (less severe points of pressure, etc) - there's also space optimization which further contributes to the disorganization. For our inconvenience GW can fit more models in a sprue, have cheaper QA because there are less miscasts, and their metal molds corrode slower than before - in theory this would mean cheaper models for the costumer but you know....
Oh for sure! My argument would be to number the pieces after doing the auto sorting / organizing
Printing odd bits and bobs is going to be a game changer for scratch building / conversions!
its already is, I print some resin stuff just to cut and glue
Heck yea it is!
After a trip through the alcohol wash, I put my models in a bath of hot water to make removing the supports really easy.
If you're having trouble removing the mini's from the build plate, I would advise adding a raft to the base. Chitubox can do this very easily if that's what you're using. It gives you a little shelf that's easier to slide the blade under. You can also reduce the exposure time for the bottom layers.
During the final UV curing, I usually cure my models for quite a bit longer; often 10-15 minutes. I don't think this is strictly necessary, but might make your models a bit firmer if they're feeling squishy at all, and may improve durability.
I'll give this all a shot, thanks for the advice!!
Thanks for the shout out brother! 😁
You got it, Brother!
I’m impressed the lines weren’t more obvious - will print resolutions be a new bit war? Stay tuned to find out
Naw. Resolution doesn’t work as advertised with MSLA Resin printers. The only resolution number worth mentioning is the pixel size. For example a 8K Phrozen Sonic Mini with a 8in 8K screen has an xy resolution of 22um.
A Sonic Mighty 8K with a 10in 8k screen has an xy resolution of 28u m
So the 4K 8K means nothing its the XY resolution that matters and in reality It’s pretty much impossible to tell with the naked eye the difference between 50um and 22um we are taking in Microns here. So no there isn’t going to be a resolution race because it has already happened and its over.
@twinsteel introducing the 48k printer!
Your editing skills are getting stronger and it really shows. Great video, as always. 👍
Thanks Bill! Really appreciate it =]
Switch to water washable resin for a much less smelly experience, also use the Lychee slicer free version as when you want to add auto supports to your own unsupported model they are the best. Go with the finest smallest supports at the highest density. Always tilt your model towards the back at around a 30 degree angle ✌️
Thanks for the tips Adam!
So one thing I do for removing the prints from the build plate is putting the plate on a table so it’s nice and secure and then using the spatula to scrape them off. I’ve never had a problem getting off the prints that way. Also, after you rinse and clean the models, putting them in hot water for a little bit and then removing the supports, make it extremely easy and you’re less likely to break any parts at all.
I'll try this out, thank you!!
so there are few moments i want to note if you want to 3d print for cheap
first - I've seen anycubic 4k printers on discount for 150€ where I live, uv lamp is 22€, foil and 2 sided tape is 3€, 1liter of alcohol is 10€ and also you can cure them in transparent glass with water which makes the job done. bottle of resin is 25€, you can find sunlu resin on discount which is completely fine. so in total you have 205€, 230 if you buy another bottle of resin, which actually can set you for a 2k points of army in some cases, which you will print in 2 days, not including price of the stl files, add 40-60€ on top, 290€ for 2k points army is great, especially if you are after some expensive stuff like mechanicus, votann (cause their vehicles cost a lot, honestly), guardsmen, orks (cause you need a lot of orcs) and for some armies, like drukhari, 3d printing is a must, this discussed in detail in poorhammer podcast, but basically boils down to absence of a model or super dated design, hello 50% of skaven army, I'm talking about you and 20 year old plastic monks, which is half of your army sometimes. So for me personally 3d printing is the best option, although I don't play warhammer competitively or even at warhammer stores, so for someone else 3d printer will be probably just an addition to hobby to print some rare or unaccessible bits.
edited: I want to add, that 4k res with smaller build plate is sometimes a 8k res with bigger build plate due to amount and size of pixels. if you are after some really awesome detail - small printer with 8k is the best option
I have a printer as well as many Aos and a couple 40k armies. I have a one page subscription and honestly its great. I get some cool models and i can have my skaven force that's not old enough to own a home. I think eventually the printer becomes a tool for whatever you need it to be. My next step is using it for additional basing materials for my all GW soul blight army
The possibilities it opens up are honestly staggering
I really enjoy your videos. I find that they perfectly straddle the line of being well produced while also still feeling genuine.
Thanks! That is one of my 4 favorite things to straddle
Cool video! I keep a spray bottle of IPA for clean up. Clean them in the wash station, dip in hot water to make support removal easier, then I spray with IPA and clean with a tooth brush. Let dry, then cure in the cure station. Most minis only need ~2 minutes to cure completely, and anymore time spent curing will leave them more brittle.
I also highly recommend Lychee Slicer. It has a ton of features that 3d printer stock software usually doesn't.
Thanks for the advice!
Seconding bathing in hot soapy water - after an IPA clean but before curing and gently scrubbing with an old toothbrush makes the supports melt off with no scarring. Using ABS like resin with prevent long thin sections from snapping. My favourite by far is the sunlu ABS like resin, a complete game changer and massive quality of life improvement over not only regular resins but other ABS like resins
If you want your prints super clean and flawless there is a few more steps you could do whole cleaning. At first I dunk mine in IPA that has been used a few times before, since this is already a bit dirty it doesn't matter. If you dunk it up and down in a large pickle strainer or something it will clear most of the resin off it. Next you can then put it in the wash and cure with fresher IPA. A 20 minute cycle should clear most of it off it. If there is still some stubborn resin you can use an old toothbrush and hand clean the awkward parts in a basin and scrub it, and then rinse it. Lastly you could if you wanted to wash it with hot water in very soapy water. Washing up liquid works well for clearing slight bits of resin, some prints you don't need it all, so it's just an additional option. Afte ther that I put the clean parts in an old sieve so the water drains off and then I put them the pieces in old take away containers out of the road to dry naturally over night or for a day. You may be thinking that's a lot of stages and messing about, and you aren't wrong but your printed minis will be perfect. I do maybe 2-4 prints at a time depending on the size of the parts and put them on a big plastic collection tray then do all the cleaning in one go then so it's like only an afternoon's work instead of having to take ages everytime a plate is done every day of the week lol. Easier to clean up then too. I hope this helps you dude, when yout have it down to a science you will enjoy it way more than just buying a box at a store lol. It's magic, and you made it.
Couple more things I forgot to mention, You may want to collect old jars or buy big containers and label them for what stage the IPA you are using is. like "old" "used a "few times" etc. Have a simple system so it's easier to manage and deal with the large amounts of IPA and things you will be messing about with. If you wash your prints in water at the end you can't throw that down the drain it's toxic waste so I put mine outside under something so it just evaporates naturally in buckets. For IPA put your really old stuff in jars and let it settle for a few weeks to a few months, once the resin has settled to the bottom just put it outside to cure in the sun then it's easier to dispose of. You can also create a filter system for the IPA by using ceramic water filters and buckets so that the IPA filters through it leaving the resin in the top bucket. I have seen some very good RUclips videos on how to do it and it will save you loads of money in the long run by recycling IPA. It doesn't last forever but you can really get your moneys worht out of it with a good filter system.
I've found when trying to get the prints off the plate, you want to use a raft in the slicer so that the print comes off the plate in one. It also provides the print more surface to stick to the plate so less supports will fail. 3:59 Doing that will not only risk damaging your tools but that might accidently damage your prints too dude. What I do is use the edge of the Scraper at the bottom of the raft and try and work the scraper underneath the raft so that it pops off. Just put the edge to the bottom, work it a bit and once you feel it start going under the raft use A bit of pressure and it will come off much easier. Make sure to use the right side of the scraper too, there is an angled side so use that so it sort of scoops the print off the bed.
Thank you so much for the advice!
@@CCMinis It's alright dude, it was a nightmare at the start trying to figure out everything. I hate mess so it's good to hit the ground running haha. I just wrote down everything I've done so far.
About taking the models off the print plate, the secret is to have a good raft, with an angle where you can put the metal spatula and apply a little force upwards. The base should look like this \___/ instead of this |___|
Usually the lychee or chitubox files are included and you can change the raft settings there.
Thanks! I will certainly check that out!
The trick to the build plate is don't over cure your bottom transition layers. I've seen people run them 60 seconds per layer it's too much. I run mine at 30 seconds and that is with Sunlu ABS like dark grey resin. I just wiggle my scraper under one corner and everything slides right off. I also tend to raft everything and position them so that the rafts overlap. This puts all the models basically on 1 sheet attached to the build plate. So once a corner is up it just peels right off.
That said fast resin may be different but I see a lot of video's where people struggle getting things off the build plate, and I don't even have to remove my build plate to remove prints.
Thank you for the advice!
Others have recommended getting a flex plate an sticking it to the build plate, its dramatically easier to remove prints.
I will check one out! I have one for my ender and it's a god send
Getting a wham bam flex build plate will make Getting those prints off thebbuild plate stupid easy
I'll give one a shot - thanks!
The self refill seems cool on that printer but leaving an open btl of resin next to your printer seems to defeat the point in the printer having filters....
Yup! I have the bottle covered in tinfoil to keep it from being exposed from the air. I wish it was a cartridge type system like paper printers
little tip wash minis twice or 3 times if needed, then rinse with warm water, the let it dry. after that cure them. if you cure right after washing you will get weird white stuff or resin alcohol film on the mini.
to help with support removal warm warm water is so good. if it gets stuck to the build plate 2 things reduce the first burn layer or a flex plate. a good magnate flex plate not the cheapies
GW has used an optimization process so that they can have the biggest number of parts on each sprue. So, sometimes, the parts are completelly appart! I've been 3r printing for nearly 15 years, from filament to resin. I've already printed many... Proxys. Warhound titan, 2k of death korps of krieg, and, more recently, some extra models to join my nids of the Leviathan box. And I use Creality's older models: Ld-002h, Ld-006. It took me many liters of resin to print and many, many hours... (in fact, I managed to print all the nids of the Leviathan box faster than the box itself took to arrive...). The only true issue is that if you want to use them on an official tournament, you have to draw them yourself and use something of the original, so that it can be counted as scratch built. Beyond that, and all of the mess and smelly propanol and resin, and dropping resin all over the place, 3d printing can change the things. Also because some of the models you can get are substancially better than the ones gw is selling...
Not sure if anyone said it already but putting them in the cureing station well they are still wet with the IPA can cause the ipa to leave a weird like chalky deposits all over the mini. Didint see them on yours but if you start noticeing it thats what it is. Dry them off or allow them to air dry first to mitigate this (i use an airbrush to blow air on them and dry the IPA faster)
Years ago libraries freaked out if you photocopied the wrong material. IP on the internet is dead. When the printer quality price, common use and ease increases then many industries will get hit.
Good Stuff! Removing from sprues is like placing your "own" supports for 3d models and removing them. For this see J3d Tech and Tableflip Foundry. Tableflip is detailed and long but these two are latest techniques and best currently. Removing from your plate is less time on FIRST Layers but J3d will discuss this as well. You are well on your way. What you will notice even though you have all the Post skills from Sprues on is with 3d printing better and better you can get straight to painting...pretty much . And the skills you have make prep a whole lot easier!! Production was nice, if it is too hot, use the fan or conditioner , use a noise canceller , you are already using background music and enjoy yourself!!!!!! I come from TV production and was soooo disappointed when RUclipsrs wanted to copy tv, I was hoping for a creative revolution, oh well... Keep up the vids. great addition to the community.
Personally I print bases on my Filament printer they come out better. Resin bases have a tendency to warp and shrink. You will notice on bigger bases.
They don't if you lattice then on the inside. But honestly I just buy GW style plastic bases and print the topping (aka usually the tactical rock) while deleting the rest of the base.
The price in resin for printing bases quickly adds up.
@@livanbard I agree, I typically don’t find printing bases to be worth it. I typically do more classic basing methods. Maybe Ill print some detail I will glue to a base but thats it. The filament bases I print are pretty much indistinguishable from GW bases when Painted.
If it's tough to get models off the build plate then you should turn down the amount of time that the slicer is using for the bottom burn in layers. Easy resin takes a different amount of time, and it changes based on room temp, so it'll take some play to get just right for you
Awesome, thanks for the advice, I'll give it a shot
@@CCMinis another thing which makes it easier to remove the models is if they hand sloped supports at the base since youll have some leverage to start lifting the model off the base and from there getting in a spatula is easier
Scaling is a thing. You can scale up or down any model. I just printed 32mm orcs at 15mm scale. That's the great thing about 3d printing for wargames, you can try out different scales.
Great point!
Great video man, now i want a 3d printer
Do it, it go BRRRRR
As long as the epoxy free resin Matter Hackers makes exists then yes, because I'll be printing a lot.
Welcome to the printing wormhole haha
Loving it so far!
Also I agree about the whole sprue thing, it was more fun back in the day for two reasons one they were easy to find parts that go together, but two!! they were almost all very modular unlike today :-(
as far as taking stuff on the plate it looks like they might be a bit over exposed on the basing layer but also to get them off what I do is I have paper towls on my work desk put the plate on it and then pop my scraper under it, I wouldnt dig at it you will make more marks that could also maybe scratch your FEP. I now use Mag Plates after several years and wish I done it years ago now ha
Oh yeah like others have said warm water will be your best friend for removing supports as well as personally I print my minis at .03 layer level its a bit longer of a print but the quailty jump is well worth a little extra time.
On the 'one army' players...
Until we joined the OPR Patreon, that was entirely true for us.
BUT... we have kind of gone wild, printing armies. And not just from OPR.
I have Jackals, Ratman Clans (mostly from Battle Yak), Robot Legions, and Eternal Dynasty (not-Tau).
My wife has Blessed Sisters, Human Defense Force (from Across the Realms), and has started Dwarf Guild.
We also have a Wormhole Daemons loaner army.
Way, way back in the day, when GW plastics were reasoably priced, I used to do the same with GW models. OPR (and others) have brought that back for me.
I always try to print my minis in as many modular pieces as possible so I'm able to get that same feeling of building the army myself, in a way I'd say it's even more personal because I get to choose exactly what heads and other bits to use from thousands of different sources compared to having to use the limited options a box set can give me.
Easier to support it that way too, you can put heavies or mediums on certain points so the supporst dont fail
I plan on exclusively 3D printing all of my miniatures eventually. I hope more people do so soon.
Great video! 3D printing is a big part of my workflow now and there is definitely a place for it, I think you'll find a methodology that suits you
Thanks BP!!
The janky edges is due to not really good supports. But in OPR Defense it is hard to support round flat things
Such a good vibe to your videos mate!
Thanks Wulven! Much appreciated=]
Get a Wham Bam Flex plate. So clutch.
I'll check it out, thanks!
Nailed it mate! Great video, severed head is a great look BTW
Thanks James!
did you find any difference in the way the paint is flowing, moving, pooling due to the layer lines?
Nope! No noticeable difference at all, very different from the thick layer lines of an FDM print
Also a tip for the supports, dump the model into warm/hot water, it will lossen up the supports so they peel off like butter
Remove your supports after rinsing in hot water. It's like soft meat off the bone, plus you get less scaring on the model
Yes GW does need to worry about 3D printing. Last year I wanted to finally get into 40k; I was poor as a kid in the 80's/90's and couldn't afford to then. Now as an adult I have plenty of discretionary income, it was time!
But then I saw GW's prices I laughed out loud in the store. There's no way in hell I'm paying what GW is asking for their minis, especially since so many models are 15-25 years old.
Bought a 3D printer and now I own thousands of points worth of mini's that look better than GW's and cost me pennies on the dollar.
3D printing is to war gaming what the MP3/Napster was to the music industry. GW can get out ahead of it or suffer. Sure they'll always have their fans and digital licensing is a golden goose for them, But I won't shed a tear if they're forced to sell the IP due to diminishing sales
Heck yea! I'm glad its working well for you
Use a flex build plate. Whambam makes the best ones
I'll check one out!
the minis being hard to get off the build plate is likely due to over exposure on the layers hardening them too much
Thank you!
1:04 Every time!
YUP!
Honestly for this subject having a mixture of models both 3D printed and actual gw kits, maybe toss in a few kromlich and other brands. Making your own miniatures your way from a variety of bits makes me very much happy.
Failed prints and Mis prints can be annoying but salvaged for other parts of the models you make. I don’t have a printer I order stuff off Etsy for my 3D printed models, if you see this thank you Fates forge.
My army is my army. That is what matters.
The most important 3d printing step is to only print monkeys.
Ah crap! I already messed up and printed a non-monkey
You're almost like the Internet Comment Etiquette of the Warhammer community
I'll check them out!
just gently pry the edges. Place the sharp corner of the spatula on the raft edge and give steady pressure with a twist until it pops. You are going to break your print if you keep smashing at it. Just saying.
I bought a 3D printer for DnD minis. I eventually got into wargaming with OPR and now I have bought Leviathan and spent thousands on GW plastic.
So 3D printing made me a Games Workshop customer. I don’t get the tribalism with some people.
Totally agree, but even before printing people DND and warhammer are very interconnect. I started by buying pre painted models for pathfinder one thing lead to another and I got the Dark Vengeance box around the end of 6th edition.
you may want a flex plate for removing the printed models easily
I think you are 100% right on that
I was just waiting for the part where you say you got the printer for free. No one ever seems to actually buy these things.
Yes, Creality sent it to me for free
I still don’t understand the mini’s but i like them
I love my 3D printer. I left it in a box for years scared of it, but finaly tried it and super simple :_)
It's so much easier than anticipated!
im wondering if anyone can provide me with good sites on how to get stl files for WH40k
Love the video. 😊😊
Heyo just watched also if you'd like to look into anti-aliasing it will help with the layer lines.
I'll look into it, thanks!
Wham bam plate for print removal!
I would have gotten Warhammer models a long time ago but they're to expensive
3d printer go brrrrrrr
@@CCMinis I gotten into reading Warhammer 40K books back in 2007 and that's when I learned about the table top game and model's. But again the model's are expensive and it was way before 3D printing became what it is now
🥳❤️👍🏿
You da bomb TwinSteel!
💥 ❤️💥
GW be afraid, be very AFRAID!!!!! Imagine how many people will leave GW dead in their ditch when plastic 3D printing becomes as good and as easy as resin printing!
We'll see what happens!
GW owns intellectual property worth billions of dollars. As their W40K franchise continues to expand into gaming, TV series, etc I'm sure they will do just fine even if they were to ditch their miniatures business.
@@ericcson3429 Yeah I agree this greedy company should just stick to selling it's I.P and leave the miniatures business!
I like puzzles. And building GW models feels like doing puzzles. Or I might be a masochist, no idea. I like building Orks. So.. Yeah.
No. 3D printing is very time consuming and an entirely separate hobby itself. It's such a headache that many will just prefer to go to the FLGS and just buy a kit.
It's like you could make your own whiskey at home, it would be cheaper in the long run, but such a huge learning curve and buy in on top of almost poisoning yourself to get it right (just like 3d printing)
I totally agree with you, its not for everyone
That comment about the Creality resin being "faster allowing resin to settle quicker" reads like shilling and has no effect on how long it'll take for a print, it's just marketing bs.
couple of things
1) show the miniswhy show your face or random images when you have a full combat patrol and a 3d printed equivalent sitting there from 9:32 till the end of the video, show the minis rotating or something showing them in the last 20 secs is an algorithm suicide i can tell you that as a fellow youtuber
2) paint the minis, I mean c'mon, this is a comparison video, the topic about wether 3d print is killing gw been discussed to death, your opinion not only comes in late but it is bound to not bring anything new to the table, you had an excellent idea printing and comparing the 2 combat patrols but it feels like that was the side quest, the background noise while you made the main focus of the video something uninteresting I hope you don't take this comment the wrong way but when I saw your onceinasixside miniature and the title I thought you where going to slam the combat patrol or at least show a great comparison but it is beyond bad, at 12:40 not only your face covers the resin penitent engine, but also your end of the video recomendation but even if it wasnt covered grey plastic vs white resin is still not very interesting and barely shows what that printer can do, the battle sister squad is good tho, but if that is thye strenght of your work i think it is a good idea giving it more screen time.
anyway I'm really looking forward for the next one
We all have different video styles my dude. Full painting video to follow once I figure out a better paint scheme for me 😉
@@CCMinis looking forward to it!