Fantastic video, I've been cleaning my firearms for 4 decades and learned so much from this video, Gary is an absolute professional and one of the most knowledgeable person I know when it comes to long range shooting. DOL
The best “How To” gun videos on RUclips and Rumble. My favorite type of videos on your channel. I like the product reviews as well. Thanks for the info.
i just got a sig cross magnum and been looking for great videos. so far all the things ive learned from you previously has been incredible! now this? too much good free training! bought an FC-4 because of you!
Great video, thanks. I’ve always used the Pro-Shot patches and brushes, but I like those ridges on your patches. I switched to Bore Tech a year ago and it’s been great.
Growing up, my dad and I used the standard Hoppes kit with the multi piece rod. In my adult life and having primarily gas guns, I’ve just been using bore snakes. I didn’t know you could spend so much just to clean.
Broke 3 aluminum rods this weekend. I've always half ass cleaned and just used hand down firearms, never really taking any of it seriously. But now that Im teaching children, I'm researching like I should have done in my teen years.
I find the best way to clean microfiber towels (without getting solvents in your washing machine) is to get degreasing detergent and just wash them in a rubbermaid bin. I use a broom handle to agitate it and then just hang them up to dry. Works well for the ones that aren't completely destroyed.
@@paramounttactical oh no, I meant the bigger towels. The lens cloths I do the same as you and just buy the towelettes in bulk and leave some everywhere
Thank you again for the hands on training at XP Long Range Level 1. This intensive 1 hour video was a great review. Thanks for the new patch advice at the 39 minute mark. Looking forward to Level 2 in 2025. I see you have the dates listed.
I don't get nearly as good results with Butch's Bore Shine as I do with the Bore Tech products. If you clean with the Bore Shine and then clean with Bore Tech, you'll be shocked out how fouling much is left in the bore.
Yeah, I should have covered that. Honestly, you really shouldn’t have to clean the brake very often, if ever. You have all the solvents coming out that are going to clean and dissolve most of the carbon buildup. If you do see excessive carbon, soak it down with bore eliminator, let it sit for a while and then hit it with a toothbrush. Still see caked on carbon? Repeat process until clean. The longer you let it soak in bore eliminator, the easier it will be. If you are seeing caked on carbon on the brake, it means either your carbon removing product sucks or you don’t clean your rifle very often. It is more common on ARs. My AR brakes and muzzle devices can get caked up because I’m not running solvents through them often. About every 2K rounds or so my ARs get the same carbon and copper treatment I do on my bolt guns.
Awesome job Gary. Funny though. I had just got off the phone with my dad. We were at the range this week and he was asking my cleaning method. I told him what I do (which I learned from you), came inside and flipped on the laptop and saw you had just put this video out so I sent him the link. Perfect timing! I did have a question about your thoughts on a carbon ring. It looked like you there were signs of one in the post clean shots. I dont know how important that is. Some people say its the mark of the beast, others dont care. Just wondering your thoughts on it
I just double checked and I didn’t see any carbon ring at the neck/throat/leade. There’s going to be a “carbon ring” at the neck of the case. That’s where burnt powder first makes contact with the barrel but it should be confined to beyond the neck. When people talk about the “dreaded” carbon ring it’s very obvious. It’s a significant build up of carbon that isn’t going to let your neck expand as it should and affect velocities. It’s carbon solidifying behind the end of the case neck and usually quite thick. It’s usually due to cases that haven’t been trimmed properly or a throat that isn’t cut properly. When/if it’s there it’s very obvious and takes significantly more cleaning than I did on this rifle to remove it. At the end of the day if your gun is consistent and performing as expected don’t over analyze. Half the time I see people making diagnoses of things are very unlikely the cause of the problems they’re having.
Great timing! Just did a cleaning and didn't do as good as I wanted. Ordered some products to try, but after watching this I may not have needed to. I did not allow to soak long enough!! I'll let sit longer and try again this weekend probably. 1 question. Do you not remove your brake? My shooting buddy said I needed to take it off while cleaning so not chemicals get in the threads. Pain in the butt, I hate wasting time if not needed. Just watched the whole thing while mowing and came back to ask you that. Have a great weekend! Sorry I've not been on the lives and commenting much. This time of year is full throttle with work for me. Motocross racing is a big time eater for me running parts for several teams and riders.
No, you do not need to remove your brake. That’s terrible advice. Yes, some solvents might get in the threads…. And CLEAN THEM! 😂 I have never removed brakes for cleaning. It also cleans the brake. 🤷♂️
@paramounttactical I was thinking it seemed excessive. He said at a match a few years ago someone who didn't take his off when he cleaned had the brake fly off during a match. Scared me into doing it. Now I gotta get timed back 🤣 I saw you didn't and I figured it would be worth asking someone with more years experience. I did get to soak and clean it better that way!! But now it is super clean, I can plan on skipping that in the future. And soaking. Likely overnight for me. I let my brass tumble in rice overnight to get shiny, figure soaking barrel in cleaner will be good after watching this. Really appreciate this info. Helped put me on a path to speeding up the while process!! I do enjoy saving time where I can! Thank you, Gary. Have a great Sunday, sir!
@@ChadKelly7 if his brake flew off it wasn’t because he was cleaning with it on. He just didn’t have it tightened correctly and didn’t inspect it. That’s a lot of threads it had to walk down before it would fly off. I find it funny how people blame the obvious on the obscure. 🤷♂️
@paramounttactical Thank you!! I thought that was the most likely. He just didn't mount properly and got lucky for a few matches. That dude probably didn't look his rifle over and just ran it. When my friend told me that, it sounded so wrong to my logical brain, but I am still new to this and didn't want to do something wrong. I should have gone with my initial gut feeling. Really appreciate you confirming what I had thought! I will get it timed back on there and not touch it again!! Man, that makes me happy. Was dreading every future cleaning if I was going to have to remove and then retime the brake every time. I found that my "run it till the groups are bad" cleaning approach was not a good idea. Going back in and soaking and scrubbing again this weekend. We have our last match in 4 weeks, so trying to get in good shape to finish the season. I beat my friend 1 time already and he has like 6 or 7 years of doing this on me 🤣 Hoping to get another top 3 finish to end this local season!! Then on to try a sanctioned PRS match!!! Happy Father's Day, sir!
I ordered a bottle of eliminaor and a bottle of cu from Gary. Came in the mail today and I immediately started using it. Keep in mind my rifle hasn't been fired since I cleaned it with Hoppes solvents. First wet patch of eliminator and a tiny bit of carbon came out, along with copper. It was taking out copper that the actual Hoppes copper solvent didn't get. The cu solvent took A LOT of copper out. My patches were coming out clean as a whistle with the Hoppes, but obviously it wasn't up to the task. There's no strong odor with the Bore Tech solvents. I'll never buy Hoppes again.
@@paramounttacticalI just cleaned again after about 150ish shots. Lots of carbon and copper with the eliminator. When I actually used the copper solvent hardly any copper came out because the eliminator by itself had removed so much copper by itself. That's pretty impressive.
Always used Milcom on lugs and took excess to coat the bolt body then wiped as much off as I could. I have always greased my cocking lug/surface with a min amt of grease.
The challenge here is that almost every brand of patch and even jags vary slightly. So you have to often play around with patch/jag combos to get it just right. We use Boretech jags and Butch’s patches. They’re on our website. We recommend the .243 jag with the 1 3/4 patches. You can find them here. www.paramounttactical.com/product/rifle-cleaning-bundle/
That's a great cleaning video what is you wed site for the cleaning part's and stand. The stand looks awesome and looks like it would made any job on a firearm so much easier.
Always fun to watch when you are making jokes too. Don't change your stroke directions mid stroke🤣. Also when don't let anyone else touch your Bolt after you apply Friction Guard XP , That's just weird!!! Now you probably remember who I am from XP Level 1.😎
You mentioned special coatings on thee scope lens. Do the alcohol swabs have no affect on these coatings? I have always used the microfiber, but i understand the concern in contamination with overuse. Thanks for the tip.
I have used nothing but bore tech for years, but there are better cleaners now that get the job done much faster with no harsh smells, I'm not saying bore tech smells bad but some other cleaners do. Bullet central patch out and accelerator, in my opinion, work about twice as fast as bore tech and will get carbon out bore tech left behind. The best cleaner I now use when I want to strip my barrel to bare steel is Thorro clean and Thorro flush. They are a game changer and will make it where u never have to soak the barrel for 24hrs like I used to with bore tech.
OCD? My type of guy 😅😅 OK, is there any difference for AR type rifles? The bolt has more lugs, there is a gas hole, and a gas tube, and a buffer tube. Thank you so much!
Ehh… I guess it’s possible but I’ve been using it for years. Have you ever seen that actually happen or is this theoretical speculation? The frost that comes out of it isn’t that cold. You can spray it on your skin and it just feels like you put some snow on it. To each their own but I think it would take a lot more than what comes out of canned air to cause enough of a thermal shift to cause a crack or damage it in any way.
True, it also can leave residues on the lens that may be quite difficult to remove if too much air comes out at once or in a short interval. A hand pear to blow air on the lens is safer.
I don't remember hearing it in the video.. and I know there's a lot of 'it depends', but in general how many rounds do you typically go between cleanings?
@@Gareth96v1 I just always clean before I put the gun away for a while or around 200rds whichever comes first. So if I shot 30rds but I’m putting the gun up, it’s getting cleaned. If I shot around 200rds but shooting the next day, I clean.
Hi Gary. Thank you for the informative videos. Quick question. Can i also use the bore tech eliminator and copper/carbon remover on my lever action rifle as well? A lot of people out there are recommending CLP products but I’m not sure about a 3 in 1 solution.
Small question, you end up with the Bore Tech Copper Remover. Shouldn't this be taken out with the bore tech eliminator? Like in your previous video 3 years ago. Thanks in advance Amazing video!
@paramounttactical thanks, what do you use for the outside of the barrel and gun? also for the other parts of a gun? do they still need oil or is there a video of you taking a rifle completely apart? Thank you!
Off topic but great video - picked up bore tech solvents today (I have Tipton rods - apparently their ultra jag also has a anti false positive thing), just wondering what scope covers you have on the Zeiss Scope?
Copper equilibrium as I understand it is, when you reach that point of copper equilibrium, the next shot will remove almost as much copper you're lying in the barrel. At that point, again as I understand it, you should be monitoring the muzzle velocity looking for an increase. So, the question still remains that are you looking for copper equilibrium and does removing copper from the barrel prevent you from reaching that point, and should you use a copper remover before reaching copper equilibrium?
Absolutely you need to be using copper remover when a rifle is new. Newer (less than 200rds ish) rifles copper foul the most and that fouling will affect group sizes dramatically. This copper fouling and loss of accuracy was why people used to do crazy break in regimens of cleaning between 1rd then 5 rds… etc. Doing that is a waste of time but you will need to clean more when a rushed is new. I typically shoot 10-30rds then strip the barrel on a new rifle and you’ll need to clean again about 30rds later. Every rifle is different. There’s never a point where a rifle will remove as much as it lays down. Copper starts getting deposited in other portions of the lands and grooves. I’ve had people tell me they had a barrel that was “shot out” and I did a copper treatment on it and it shot sub MOA again for several thousand more rounds. Copper clean every time you clean. You’ll typically (again every rifle is different) have to shoot 5-10 fouling rounds before it tightens up but you’ll maintain the life and accuracy of your rifle.
@@PassionforRifles you use bore eliminator and the bore mop. I find it entertaining that it’s like carbon rings were just discovered and all the sudden discussions about it. There has always been and will always be a carbon ring at the neck opening inside the chamber. It’s where powder first makes contact with the chamber. Of course there will be a circular carbon fouling ring. This discussion makes me feel like I’m taking crazy pills. Next week copper fouling will be the trending topic and everyone will be acting as if it was just discovered. The question is, is the carbon ring affecting precision? If it is, it’s usually a case trimming issue. Cases too long can force a carbon ring behind the case opening and IF that is happening, as that carbon ring builds up it COULD cause MV fluctuations by not allowing the case neck to expand properly and consistently. Don’t search for a problem of you don’t have one. Is your rifle shooting well? Are your SDs staying consistent? No? Then there’s 15 things it could be and a carbon ring MIGHT be contributing factor. This cleaning process I laid out will clean the carbon ring. If your rifle has an excessive carbon ring, you might need to soak with solvent longer. If you are getting a carbon ring that’s negatively affecting precision, it’s a symptom. Not the problem. It’s an internal ballistic problem. Cases could be too long. Throat cut too short…
@@paramounttactical good talking, sir. Many gun owners dont have borescope, i think it should be in your cleaning kit, just like cleaning rod is, or you dont know what's going on inside of your barrel.
@@PassionforRifles did you watch this video where I say that very thing? The reality is though that the vast majority of people don’t shoot their guns enough to really need a bore scope. A large percentage of what’s left don’t know what they’re seeing and many people unnecessarily complicate things with a bore scope. I bet many of the best PRS shooters either don’t use a bore scope at all or rarely do.
What about Carb-Out by Sharp Shoot R? How do you like it? Also what about your bolt spring on the inside of the bolt? Grease, oil, both? Sako bolt btw.
I like Bore Tech. 🤷♂️ I know it works extremely well. I know it doest damage the barrel and actually protects against corrosion. I know their products don’t chemically react negatively (cause corrosion or heat) or counteract one as other. I’ve tried most products on the market I can’t say I’ve used Carb Out but I’m quite sure it’s not going to do anything that Bore Eliminator doesn’t I also don’t know what other products it plays nice with. When you find a system of products that work perfectly and in unison why keep looking for others?
@paramounttactical I've used wipe-out by Sharp Shoot R but never I Carb-Out so didn't know if you had experience with it. What about the other part of my question having to do with if we should grease or oil the inside of our bolt? What do you do. It's a Sako 3 lug bolt
With the Bore Tech Bore Eliminator you likely don’t. But copper build up is what is going to diminish precision. It will increase pressures and velocities. The smaller the bore, the more important it is to clean copper more often.
lol, there’s nothing to address. The process I just took you through addresses carbon rings. I’m finding this “carbon ring” fad/trend/craze entertaining actually. It’s all the discussion as if it was just discovered last week. There’s always been and will always be a carbon ring to some extent at the case opening in throat. When it becomes a problem is when it’s excessive and causes velocity inconsistencies because the carbon is getting behind the case opening and not allowing the neck to expand like it should. This isn’t a carbon ring problem. It’s a neck trimming problem, or the chamber was cut wrong. The carbon is Either way, it is an internal ballistics problem in need of an internal ballistics solution. The cleaning method I just laid out will get rid of the carbon but it’s the source of the issue that needs to be addressed.
@@LarryTrischetti ask 50 shooters what “copper equilibrium” means to them and you’ll get 50 different answers. So, I’m not even sure what you mean exactly when YOU use that term because I’m quite sure what it means to me and you given the context you’re using it is very different. There’s also about 1000 different factors/considerations here… caliber, type of rifle, type of rifling, production barrels, high end/hand lapped barrels, type of shooting… all of those drastically change HOW you clean, how OFTEN you clean and then you have rifles with their own personality that require non typical cleaning regiment because that’s what makes that rifle shooting a particular ammo work best. Here’s what I’ll say from my experience. Most rifles’ accuracy will diminish after about 200ish rounds. This is my general experience and of course there’s examples that go way higher or lower in round count before precision is degrading. Typically if you remove copper and carbon fouling every 200rds you’ll then need to shoot 5-10 fouling rounds and you get consistent results. But you will get hugely inconsistent results if you just ignore copper. Every 200rds or so, sometimes I go as long as 400ish, I’m cleaning as described and my results stay predictable. I still clean after a range sessions so it’s usually 200rds or less. I’m preventing, not reacting to unpredictable results due to fouling. Thanks, Gary
Damage the lands and rifling...🤣🤣🤣 Y'all misunderstand the difference between steel, soft metal, and other insignificant compounds. As long as there's no abrasive, these items can NOT damage a barrel or rifling. If it does, then your barrel is shit quality and you need to rethink a few things. Common sense here.
@@frostypreppersk3593 yeah? Then I guess shooting softer copper down a steel barrel should never wear it out right? The idea that softer materials can’t damage/wear harder ones is just false. I don’t even disagree with the finer points of what you’re saying but your premise is false.
@paramounttactical no actually I'm right. 1000+ rounds at high speed with extreme temperatures cause wear yes. Think about a cleaning rod now. Use some common fukking sense! You will Never wear or harm a barrel cleaning it! It's a scientific fact! Go back to school nimrod!
Lmao, I’m sorry but you’re completely wrong. Generally, given the lower barrel life of common cartridges like 6.5CM I agree with you. The barrel is shot out before wear happens. It’s well documented and I’ve seen crowns eroded through cleaning in higher round count calibers like .308. Our high round count sniper rifles in my former career showed significant crown erosion due to pulling brushes back through the crown on the return stroke which is why many BR and F Class shooters take their brush off before they pull the brush back through. Softer materials can scratch, damage, and erode, or cut harder ones. Here’s the quote of the synopsis from a physics site that covers that topic. “So yes - if your definition of cutting is broad enough to include "able to remove material", then a soft material can cut a harder one.” Here’s a link. Believe what you want but you’re incorrect. physics.stackexchange.com/questions/137443/is-it-possible-to-cut-harder-material-with-a-less-hard-material#:~:text=Yes%2C%20is%20possible.,this%2C%20water%20can%20cut%20steel.&text=One%20can%20cut%20a%20any,abrasive%20against%20the%20cutting%20surface.
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Fantastic video, I've been cleaning my firearms for 4 decades and learned so much from this video, Gary is an absolute professional and one of the most knowledgeable person I know when it comes to long range shooting. DOL
You sold me on bore tech, headed to your website soon and stock up, thank you for the knowledge!
@@fd6260 well we appreciate the business and for watching!
-Gary
The best “How To” gun videos on RUclips and Rumble. My favorite type of videos on your channel. I like the product reviews as well. Thanks for the info.
Great video from someone who clearly has actual experience. So many RUclips videos are by folks who just open a box and narrate what they see.
This is the most informative how to channel. You deserve more subs.
i just got a sig cross magnum and been looking for great videos. so far all the things ive learned from you previously has been incredible! now this? too much good free training! bought an FC-4 because of you!
You totally knocked it out of the park from A - Z , It take a lot of time for these videos to be made . 😊😊😊😊😊
You have no idea and I wouldn’t bore you with the details.😂
Great video, thanks. I’ve always used the Pro-Shot patches and brushes, but I like those ridges on your patches. I switched to Bore Tech a year ago and it’s been great.
Growing up, my dad and I used the standard Hoppes kit with the multi piece rod. In my adult life and having primarily gas guns, I’ve just been using bore snakes. I didn’t know you could spend so much just to clean.
Way to go Gary. We learn a lot from you. We feel honesty from you...wut's better than honesty? We subscribed here and Rumble.
Broke 3 aluminum rods this weekend. I've always half ass cleaned and just used hand down firearms, never really taking any of it seriously. But now that Im teaching children, I'm researching like I should have done in my teen years.
Amazing video on how to clean. Thank you for making the great content.
Wow this video needs a few more thousand likes. I’m new to PRS, best comprehensive video and well deserved product purchase from your site
I find the best way to clean microfiber towels (without getting solvents in your washing machine) is to get degreasing detergent and just wash them in a rubbermaid bin. I use a broom handle to agitate it and then just hang them up to dry. Works well for the ones that aren't completely destroyed.
That’s cool but personally I wouldn’t use them on lenses after that.
@@paramounttactical oh no, I meant the bigger towels. The lens cloths I do the same as you and just buy the towelettes in bulk and leave some everywhere
@@SalamiRocketship 👊word
Very informative and well done Gary. Thanks oh and I hate it when I change direction mid stroke
Fantastic video! Thank you for the information.
Thank you again for the hands on training at XP Long Range Level 1. This intensive 1 hour video was a great review. Thanks for the new patch advice at the 39 minute mark. Looking forward to Level 2 in 2025. I see you have the dates listed.
Awesome information. Thank you
That action cleaning tool is pretty slick. That gap where the lugs seat is impossible to get really well with q tips.
Haven't ever used boretech, but have used Butch's bore shine with their patches for years.
I don't get nearly as good results with Butch's Bore Shine as I do with the Bore Tech products. If you clean with the Bore Shine and then clean with Bore Tech, you'll be shocked out how fouling much is left in the bore.
Gary, what about cleaning the break?
Yeah, I should have covered that. Honestly, you really shouldn’t have to clean the brake very often, if ever. You have all the solvents coming out that are going to clean and dissolve most of the carbon buildup. If you do see excessive carbon, soak it down with bore eliminator, let it sit for a while and then hit it with a toothbrush. Still see caked on carbon? Repeat process until clean. The longer you let it soak in bore eliminator, the easier it will be.
If you are seeing caked on carbon on the brake, it means either your carbon removing product sucks or you don’t clean your rifle very often.
It is more common on ARs. My AR brakes and muzzle devices can get caked up because I’m not running solvents through them often. About every 2K rounds or so my ARs get the same carbon and copper treatment I do on my bolt guns.
Thanks brother.
Awesome job Gary. Funny though. I had just got off the phone with my dad. We were at the range this week and he was asking my cleaning method. I told him what I do (which I learned from you), came inside and flipped on the laptop and saw you had just put this video out so I sent him the link. Perfect timing! I did have a question about your thoughts on a carbon ring. It looked like you there were signs of one in the post clean shots. I dont know how important that is. Some people say its the mark of the beast, others dont care. Just wondering your thoughts on it
I just double checked and I didn’t see any carbon ring at the neck/throat/leade.
There’s going to be a “carbon ring” at the neck of the case.
That’s where burnt powder first makes contact with the barrel but it should be confined to beyond the neck. When people talk about the “dreaded” carbon ring it’s very obvious. It’s a significant build up of carbon that isn’t going to let your neck expand as it should and affect velocities. It’s carbon solidifying behind the end of the case neck and usually quite thick. It’s usually due to cases that haven’t been trimmed properly or a throat that isn’t cut properly.
When/if it’s there it’s very obvious and takes significantly more cleaning than I did on this rifle to remove it.
At the end of the day if your gun is consistent and performing as expected don’t over analyze. Half the time I see people making diagnoses of things are very unlikely the cause of the problems they’re having.
Great timing! Just did a cleaning and didn't do as good as I wanted. Ordered some products to try, but after watching this I may not have needed to.
I did not allow to soak long enough!! I'll let sit longer and try again this weekend probably.
1 question. Do you not remove your brake? My shooting buddy said I needed to take it off while cleaning so not chemicals get in the threads. Pain in the butt, I hate wasting time if not needed.
Just watched the whole thing while mowing and came back to ask you that.
Have a great weekend! Sorry I've not been on the lives and commenting much. This time of year is full throttle with work for me. Motocross racing is a big time eater for me running parts for several teams and riders.
No, you do not need to remove your brake. That’s terrible advice. Yes, some solvents might get in the threads…. And CLEAN THEM! 😂
I have never removed brakes for cleaning. It also cleans the brake. 🤷♂️
@paramounttactical I was thinking it seemed excessive. He said at a match a few years ago someone who didn't take his off when he cleaned had the brake fly off during a match. Scared me into doing it. Now I gotta get timed back 🤣
I saw you didn't and I figured it would be worth asking someone with more years experience. I did get to soak and clean it better that way!! But now it is super clean, I can plan on skipping that in the future. And soaking. Likely overnight for me. I let my brass tumble in rice overnight to get shiny, figure soaking barrel in cleaner will be good after watching this.
Really appreciate this info. Helped put me on a path to speeding up the while process!! I do enjoy saving time where I can!
Thank you, Gary. Have a great Sunday, sir!
@@ChadKelly7 if his brake flew off it wasn’t because he was cleaning with it on. He just didn’t have it tightened correctly and didn’t inspect it. That’s a lot of threads it had to walk down before it would fly off. I find it funny how people blame the obvious on the obscure. 🤷♂️
@paramounttactical Thank you!! I thought that was the most likely. He just didn't mount properly and got lucky for a few matches. That dude probably didn't look his rifle over and just ran it. When my friend told me that, it sounded so wrong to my logical brain, but I am still new to this and didn't want to do something wrong. I should have gone with my initial gut feeling.
Really appreciate you confirming what I had thought!
I will get it timed back on there and not touch it again!! Man, that makes me happy. Was dreading every future cleaning if I was going to have to remove and then retime the brake every time.
I found that my "run it till the groups are bad" cleaning approach was not a good idea. Going back in and soaking and scrubbing again this weekend.
We have our last match in 4 weeks, so trying to get in good shape to finish the season. I beat my friend 1 time already and he has like 6 or 7 years of doing this on me 🤣 Hoping to get another top 3 finish to end this local season!! Then on to try a sanctioned PRS match!!!
Happy Father's Day, sir!
I ordered a bottle of eliminaor and a bottle of cu from Gary. Came in the mail today and I immediately started using it. Keep in mind my rifle hasn't been fired since I cleaned it with Hoppes solvents. First wet patch of eliminator and a tiny bit of carbon came out, along with copper. It was taking out copper that the actual Hoppes copper solvent didn't get. The cu solvent took A LOT of copper out. My patches were coming out clean as a whistle with the Hoppes, but obviously it wasn't up to the task. There's no strong odor with the Bore Tech solvents. I'll never buy Hoppes again.
Tim, thanks for the business and the testimonial. We appreciate it!
Thanks,
Gary, Summer, PTS Team
@@paramounttacticalI just cleaned again after about 150ish shots. Lots of carbon and copper with the eliminator. When I actually used the copper solvent hardly any copper came out because the eliminator by itself had removed so much copper by itself. That's pretty impressive.
I really appreciate the sound effects
Thank you very much for responding.
Great video!
Erik
Always used Milcom on lugs and took excess to coat the bolt body then wiped as much off as I could.
I have always greased my cocking lug/surface with a min amt of grease.
Great video. Thanks! DOL
What is the best size cleaning patch for 6.5CM?
@@Justin.Brown723 depends on the cleaning patch.
@ typically just use pro shot
The challenge here is that almost every brand of patch and even jags vary slightly. So you have to often play around with patch/jag combos to get it just right. We use Boretech jags and Butch’s patches. They’re on our website. We recommend the .243 jag with the 1 3/4 patches. You can find them here.
www.paramounttactical.com/product/rifle-cleaning-bundle/
What chamber mop size do you use for 6.5CM, large one?
@@fd6260 yes
That's a great cleaning video what is you wed site for the cleaning part's and stand. The stand looks awesome and looks like it would made any job on a firearm so much easier.
www.paramounttactical.com/product/rifle-cleaning-bundle/
Great instructional video
excellent video sir super helpful
Do we need a copper disolver if we shot only lead?
What’s your opinion on foaming cleaners?
Can you explain the discoloration just after the chamber? My stainless barrel seems to have similar discoloration for about six inches down the barrel
Always fun to watch when you are making jokes too. Don't change your stroke directions mid stroke🤣. Also when don't let anyone else touch your Bolt after you apply Friction Guard XP , That's just weird!!! Now you probably remember who I am from XP Level 1.😎
You mentioned special coatings on thee scope lens. Do the alcohol swabs have no affect on these coatings? I have always used the microfiber, but i understand the concern in contamination with overuse. Thanks for the tip.
Are you referring to the Zeiss lens wipes? If so, they’re alcohol free and optics safe.
I have a seekins that is 4 lug that i would like to have an action cleaning kit for.
You’ll need to buy the universal kit. It comes with the plunger and you’ll just need to cut it to your lug pattern. Takes just a couple minutes.
@@paramounttactical ok sounds good. kinda wish they didnt go the 4 lug route and did a shorter throw, but overall love the gun
I have used nothing but bore tech for years, but there are better cleaners now that get the job done much faster with no harsh smells, I'm not saying bore tech smells bad but some other cleaners do. Bullet central patch out and accelerator, in my opinion, work about twice as fast as bore tech and will get carbon out bore tech left behind. The best cleaner I now use when I want to strip my barrel to bare steel is Thorro clean and Thorro flush. They are a game changer and will make it where u never have to soak the barrel for 24hrs like I used to with bore tech.
Can you use patch out or thorro clean for ar 15 barrel and bcg or to clean handguns?
OCD? My type of guy 😅😅
OK, is there any difference for AR type rifles? The bolt has more lugs, there is a gas hole, and a gas tube, and a buffer tube.
Thank you so much!
19:21 do not use canned air on your lenses. If the freezing liquid gets on your glass it could crack the glass from rapid thermal contraction.
Ehh… I guess it’s possible but I’ve been using it for years. Have you ever seen that actually happen or is this theoretical speculation?
The frost that comes out of it isn’t that cold. You can spray it on your skin and it just feels like you put some snow on it.
To each their own but I think it would take a lot more than what comes out of canned air to cause enough of a thermal shift to cause a crack or damage it in any way.
True, it also can leave residues on the lens that may be quite difficult to remove if too much air comes out at once or in a short interval. A hand pear to blow air on the lens is safer.
Great vid, thanks 👍 do you recommend any product for the outside of the barrel for long term storage to prevent rust?
@@genos3933 www.paramounttactical.com/product/shield-xp-rust-preventative/
@@genos3933 bore tech shield XP rust preventative. Go to paramounttactical.com and just put shield Xp in search bar.
I don't remember hearing it in the video.. and I know there's a lot of 'it depends', but in general how many rounds do you typically go between cleanings?
@@Gareth96v1 I just always clean before I put the gun away for a while or around 200rds whichever comes first.
So if I shot 30rds but I’m putting the gun up, it’s getting cleaned. If I shot around 200rds but shooting the next day, I clean.
Always great info and very thorough. Hopefully a student didn’t leave the gun like that
Hi Gary. Thank you for the informative videos. Quick question. Can i also use the bore tech eliminator and copper/carbon remover on my lever action rifle as well? A lot of people out there are recommending CLP products but I’m not sure about a 3 in 1 solution.
Hey Paramount team! Any idea what length cleaning rod would be correct for a MPA Vanquish PMR with a 26” barrel?
ruclips.net/video/IuF-zKEQ2rw/видео.htmlsi=jPMlUV0wjbt7ngUR
@ thanks for the reply! I guess I need to wait for my rifle to see exactly how long of a cleaning rod I’ll need.
@graysenmonk3982 for the vanquish, with a non-folding stock and if you got the 26” barrel, you’ll need the 50” rod.
@@paramounttactical thanks!
Small question, you end up with the Bore Tech Copper Remover. Shouldn't this be taken out with the bore tech eliminator? Like in your previous video 3 years ago.
Thanks in advance
Amazing video!
No. It can be left in. It doesn’t harm a thing and will provide corrosion protection.
@paramounttactical thanks, what do you use for the outside of the barrel and gun? also for the other parts of a gun? do they still need oil or is there a video of you taking a rifle completely apart?
Thank you!
Off topic but great video - picked up bore tech solvents today (I have Tipton rods - apparently their ultra jag also has a anti false positive thing), just wondering what scope covers you have on the Zeiss Scope?
Copper equilibrium as I understand it is, when you reach that point of copper equilibrium, the next shot will remove almost as much copper you're lying in the barrel. At that point, again as I understand it, you should be monitoring the muzzle velocity looking for an increase. So, the question still remains that are you looking for copper equilibrium and does removing copper from the barrel prevent you from reaching that point, and should you use a copper remover before reaching copper equilibrium?
Absolutely you need to be using copper remover when a rifle is new. Newer (less than 200rds ish) rifles copper foul the most and that fouling will affect group sizes dramatically. This copper fouling and loss of accuracy was why people used to do crazy break in regimens of cleaning between 1rd then 5 rds… etc. Doing that is a waste of time but you will need to clean more when a rushed is new. I typically shoot 10-30rds then strip the barrel on a new rifle and you’ll need to clean again about 30rds later. Every rifle is different. There’s never a point where a rifle will remove as much as it lays down. Copper starts getting deposited in other portions of the lands and grooves. I’ve had people tell me they had a barrel that was “shot out” and I did a copper treatment on it and it shot sub MOA again for several thousand more rounds.
Copper clean every time you clean. You’ll typically (again every rifle is different) have to shoot 5-10 fouling rounds before it tightens up but you’ll maintain the life and accuracy of your rifle.
I would like to see, how you remove carbon ring.
@@PassionforRifles you use bore eliminator and the bore mop.
I find it entertaining that it’s like carbon rings were just discovered and all the sudden discussions about it. There has always been and will always be a carbon ring at the neck opening inside the chamber. It’s where powder first makes contact with the chamber. Of course there will be a circular carbon fouling ring.
This discussion makes me feel like I’m taking crazy pills. Next week copper fouling will be the trending topic and everyone will be acting as if it was just discovered.
The question is, is the carbon ring affecting precision? If it is, it’s usually a case trimming issue. Cases too long can force a carbon ring behind the case opening and IF that is happening, as that carbon ring builds up it COULD cause MV fluctuations by not allowing the case neck to expand properly and consistently.
Don’t search for a problem of you don’t have one. Is your rifle shooting well? Are your SDs staying consistent? No? Then there’s 15 things it could be and a carbon ring MIGHT be contributing factor.
This cleaning process I laid out will clean the carbon ring. If your rifle has an excessive carbon ring, you might need to soak with solvent longer.
If you are getting a carbon ring that’s negatively affecting precision, it’s a symptom. Not the problem. It’s an internal ballistic problem. Cases could be too long. Throat cut too short…
@@paramounttactical good talking, sir. Many gun owners dont have borescope, i think it should be in your cleaning kit, just like cleaning rod is, or you dont know what's going on inside of your barrel.
@@PassionforRifles did you watch this video where I say that very thing?
The reality is though that the vast majority of people don’t shoot their guns enough to really need a bore scope. A large percentage of what’s left don’t know what they’re seeing and many people unnecessarily complicate things with a bore scope. I bet many of the best PRS shooters either don’t use a bore scope at all or rarely do.
What about Carb-Out by Sharp Shoot R? How do you like it? Also what about your bolt spring on the inside of the bolt? Grease, oil, both? Sako bolt btw.
I like Bore Tech. 🤷♂️ I know it works extremely well. I know it doest damage the barrel and actually protects against corrosion. I know their products don’t chemically react negatively (cause corrosion or heat) or counteract one as other. I’ve tried most products on the market I can’t say I’ve used Carb Out but I’m quite sure it’s not going to do anything that Bore Eliminator doesn’t I also don’t know what other products it plays nice with. When you find a system of products that work perfectly and in unison why keep looking for others?
@paramounttactical I've used wipe-out by Sharp Shoot R but never I Carb-Out so didn't know if you had experience with it. What about the other part of my question having to do with if we should grease or oil the inside of our bolt? What do you do. It's a Sako 3 lug bolt
@@brandonyoung7760 light amount of oil.
I’ve used Wipe Out. Not nearly as effective as Boretech
@@paramounttactical Thanks! I'll have to try bore tech then because wipe out is the best I've used personally
The one question I have is do you do copper removal every time?
With the Bore Tech Bore Eliminator you likely don’t.
But copper build up is what is going to diminish precision. It will increase pressures and velocities.
The smaller the bore, the more important it is to clean copper more often.
Does the Bore Tech Eliminator remove the need for the Bore Tech Carbon Remover? I assume so, but wasn't sure. Thanks for your time.
@@deltan9ne306 he says in the video he rarely has a need to use it.
@@deltan9ne306 I cover that in the video.
@timothythompson6549 Thanks, I must have got side tracked and missed that.
Good video, but....there is always a but. You didn't address carbon ring. Unless I missed it.
lol, there’s nothing to address. The process I just took you through addresses carbon rings. I’m finding this “carbon ring” fad/trend/craze entertaining actually. It’s all the discussion as if it was just discovered last week.
There’s always been and will always be a carbon ring to some extent at the case opening in throat.
When it becomes a problem is when it’s excessive and causes velocity inconsistencies because the carbon is getting behind the case opening and not allowing the neck to expand like it should. This isn’t a carbon ring problem. It’s a neck trimming problem, or the chamber was cut wrong. The carbon is
Either way, it is an internal ballistics problem in need of an internal ballistics solution.
The cleaning method I just laid out will get rid of the carbon but it’s the source of the issue that needs to be addressed.
@@paramounttactical i am so proud of you at this moment.
@@McgSpook I can die fulfilled now. 😂
I thought what you were looking for is to get the barrel at copper equilibrium. By using a copper remover aren't you getting away from that???
@@LarryTrischetti ask 50 shooters what “copper equilibrium” means to them and you’ll get 50 different answers. So, I’m not even sure what you mean exactly when YOU use that term because I’m quite sure what it means to me and you given the context you’re using it is very different.
There’s also about 1000 different factors/considerations here… caliber, type of rifle, type of rifling, production barrels, high end/hand lapped barrels, type of shooting… all of those drastically change HOW you clean, how OFTEN you clean and then you have rifles with their own personality that require non typical cleaning regiment because that’s what makes that rifle shooting a particular ammo work best.
Here’s what I’ll say from my experience. Most rifles’ accuracy will diminish after about 200ish rounds. This is my general experience and of course there’s examples that go way higher or lower in round count before precision is degrading. Typically if you remove copper and carbon fouling every 200rds you’ll then need to shoot 5-10 fouling rounds and you get consistent results.
But you will get hugely inconsistent results if you just ignore copper. Every 200rds or so, sometimes I go as long as 400ish, I’m cleaning as described and my results stay predictable. I still clean after a range sessions so it’s usually 200rds or less. I’m preventing, not reacting to unpredictable results due to fouling.
Thanks,
Gary
"shrinkflation"
You're not wrong... Thanks Joe Biden
What about a dry graphite film on the bolt body?
No.
😂 OCD much 😅
Gary OCD!!! never! lol
Damage the lands and rifling...🤣🤣🤣 Y'all misunderstand the difference between steel, soft metal, and other insignificant compounds. As long as there's no abrasive, these items can NOT damage a barrel or rifling. If it does, then your barrel is shit quality and you need to rethink a few things. Common sense here.
@@frostypreppersk3593 yeah? Then I guess shooting softer copper down a steel barrel should never wear it out right? The idea that softer materials can’t damage/wear harder ones is just false.
I don’t even disagree with the finer points of what you’re saying but your premise is false.
@paramounttactical no actually I'm right. 1000+ rounds at high speed with extreme temperatures cause wear yes. Think about a cleaning rod now. Use some common fukking sense! You will Never wear or harm a barrel cleaning it! It's a scientific fact! Go back to school nimrod!
Lmao, I’m sorry but you’re completely wrong. Generally, given the lower barrel life of common cartridges like 6.5CM I agree with you. The barrel is shot out before wear happens.
It’s well documented and I’ve seen crowns eroded through cleaning in higher round count calibers like .308.
Our high round count sniper rifles in my former career showed significant crown erosion due to pulling brushes back through the crown on the return stroke which is why many BR and F Class shooters take their brush off before they pull the brush back through.
Softer materials can scratch, damage, and erode, or cut harder ones.
Here’s the quote of the synopsis from a physics site that covers that topic.
“So yes - if your definition of cutting is broad enough to include "able to remove material", then a soft material can cut a harder one.”
Here’s a link. Believe what you want but you’re incorrect.
physics.stackexchange.com/questions/137443/is-it-possible-to-cut-harder-material-with-a-less-hard-material#:~:text=Yes%2C%20is%20possible.,this%2C%20water%20can%20cut%20steel.&text=One%20can%20cut%20a%20any,abrasive%20against%20the%20cutting%20surface.
Here’s more info from an engineering site:
www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=92753