get your engine and trans the Motul🤓 oil treatment nevertheless Mercedes Genuine Fluids are best. flushes, pre-treatments and fluids. also change brake fluid. mate i previously maintained our family mercs in damp tempura area. not Motul sponcer just have gotten reliable results with Motul. complete treatments
Great video as always. These gearboxes are so sluggish when cold. Especially in Comfort when it starts in 2nd gear, crabbing can be quite noticeable too with cold tyres. Try the throttle position reset to reset the gearbox adaption too, some videos online about putting the ignition in position 2 and holding down the accelerator peddle for like 10 seconds. Rocker head covers develop cracks if the smoke comes back, it could be dripping onto the downpipes.
I work at Mercedes as a tech, the battery will need to be reset so the ecu knows it’s been changed and also gearbox oil change highly advise doing sounds like the problem you are having we get them quite a lot when they haven’t been changed in a long time and customer says it feels sluggish when setting off
Mine has gear oil changed twice in a year and still sluggish when cold 🥶 and I've reset everything regards to holding throttle pedal down etc. Did improve but not much.
@@simonking5010 You are able to use Mercedes own diagnostic computer and do adaptation/teach in to transmission which allows you to teach in the gear changes and build oil pressure for the valve body and torque converter
Check for control 'Relays' being water damaged, especially those used by convenience control module (normally located drivers side foot well - most cars). These can be stuck 'normally open' or 'normally closed' and will not switch over when required to do so. This can be intermittent, hence ignition reset sometimes corrects the issue, but they will eventually fail. This will also explain the all the warning lights on the dash. Typically having all warning lights is a result of various control modules not responding to self checks or even diagnostic when plugged in. A loss of power, revs, steering triggering limp home mode being will also be a result of a comms failure between modules, but a simple check of whether the relays are mechanically clicking in and out may be a cheap quick fix. Another great series! Really enjoy the raw commentary as and when you discover and resolve the issues. Fantastic and enjoyable insight.
I've been looking forward to another video on this car, shame you haven't found the problem yet but you'll get there. This reminds me of a Passat I once owned, it had the same weird electrical gremlins and ran like crap. Water made its way into the passenger footwell, corroded a load of terminals and soaked the BCM, sorted that out and it's still going strong. Believe it or not the water was screwing with my oil pressure readings. I'd also be inclined to do what others have suggested, change the gear oil (regardless of flood damage or not, the previous owner thrashed it) and get that 666 number plate on eBay for the cost of the retention.
I fully agree yes renew the transmission oil/fluid, it’s a bit more complicated as it’s an automatic and would probably require the torque converter to be flushed as well best regards to you and everyone out there mark from billericay 😃👍🇬🇧
Yeah the so called “sealed for life” gearboxes by so many manufacturers is all a load of bs, on my E class, the plug connector has to be replaced every time also as it has a seal between the plug and gearbox, and it’s not too bad, but still more expense with the cost of genuine oil and filter too
@@moodyk1979 they are crafty and greedy they want it to break or go wrong so you buy another one I believe that prevention is better than cure I service my van 🚐 regularly every year and yes I’m a fussy old tart kind regards to you mark from the U.K. 🇬🇧
Dean the over voltage could be sending the gearbox ecu into turmoil. And if there has been water damage of some sort it would explain the alternator’s voltage spiking perhaps. Another combination could also be contaminated gearbox oil? But this is another “if it really was flood damage” thing? But that wouldn’t explain the over charging but could be contributing factor.
As it's been owned by a chav previously . I'd be checking for aftermarket devices plumbed into the canbus for starters. This is a car as a whole issue. Then move on to waterlogged ecu's. Sam crac had the same issue almost exactly with a waterlogged seat module under the foot well on his X6M
Also, there is a software update on i know the 2009 C class, (dealer info) The default setting if the battery is flat for a time or the gearbox conductor is new, is that it reverts to the U.S. setting, which has a built in 2 second delay in reverse, i kid you not! 🙂 If its just reverse that lags, pursue this before tearing it down. Hope its simple!
I would definitely change the gearbox oil and filter, take the valve body down and check any water contamination too. Also make sure the gearbox isn’t in “W” mode for winter, as that makes it more sluggish to pull away to stop wheel spin in winter. Make sure it’s in C or S. Yes I would definitely get a Star diagnostics on it, as normal systems like Carly or OBD readers cannot interrogate all the modules and ECU’s in the car. I would also leave the multimeter on the battery and keep the revs of the engine up to at least 1.5-2k for 5 mins and see if the voltage is stable or not, but as someone else said, you usually need to reset the BCM to tell the system it has a new battery but I can’t remember on this year if it’s needed. It’s funny because when stationery it’s fine, as soon as you start moving it starts failing, there could be some ABS sensor failures causing the car to go into power reduced mode or some corroded wiring / connectors. Might be worth jacking up and going over all the connectors to the wheels especially if it’s been in some kind of flood damage. The Star machine will definitely help you out loads if you can borrow one as they cost ££££
Water contamination in the gearbox, seems very likely. Change the oil and filter. Also, water may have corrupted the conductor plate in the bottom of the box. Both easy jobs. Parts are surprisingly inexpensive from Merecedes, done several. Good luck!
Yeah just watched this and this was my first thought. As for the rest of the electronics of the car, like he said a regulator overcharging the system can cause it or water ingress in a module could do it as well.
I come from more of a VAG background, so no direct Merc C class experience but this definitely gets my vote too. My immediate thought also turned to contamination of the box or associated electronics / trans controller. Moisture in trans controller is quite a common fault on the generation of S6 I have. The mould in the car suggest it's certainly been quite wet at some point so seems worth following up on. Best of luck.
@@benfrancis4896 Agreed Ben. The level of damp points to water ingress, and we both know the carnage that can cause. it will be in everything, 'green crusties' on every connection. If he could work out how far the water got up to that wold help, but multi module & harness issues are likely.
Voltage regulator is fairly common on these bud causing all sorts of electrical mayhem. Also one of the abs sensors playing up will make the transmission behave as yours is doing. Had a c63 in not long ago doing the same, abs sorted it straight away Best of luck. Keep the videos coming 👌🏽👍🏼
When you had the high voltage on the battery with the car running, the jumpstarter was still connected to the battery. These tend to output quite a bit more than 12V to get an old diesel started quickly. Just so you have some extra juice to turn the engine around. Pretty sure that's the reason you saw the high voltage on the battery.
great video as allways love the way you methodically try to solve the problems but what a beast of a car ive got a c220 d looks a little like that lol but its like a paper plane my car harrier jump jet c63 keep trying great content
Abs lights coming on can play havoc with the box.. As others have said gearbox oil change and fix the voltage reg.. That will more than likely sort it.
I like the way you so carefully covered the registration plate for previous videos and the start of this one, but forgot when you changed the battery.....with those numbers 666 it must be the beast 🤣🤣🤣
I’ve heard of the TDC sensor on this C63 car throwing all sort of issues, especially acceleration and reverse issues, might be worth a look. Looking at the previous owners videos, it’s highly likely the way it was driven and tested on the dyno, it’s been played around with. Is there any water around the SAM module? Irritating I know but love the fault finding😊
you are lucky friend... count your blessings. not mechanical not fluids use the money saved and buy MB Star C3 or C4... really excited for you. didnt go as planned but awsome!!.. the car did take in much moisture. seat belts were moldy. your c63 is probably a sealed model. put water absobant pack in car over several nights and watch them fill up.. happy for you. keep vids coing from an insiring youtube merades tuber ~AconcernedHaitian
Flood damage could refer to any water getting into the car, I would be pulling back the carpets and sound insulation to look for any significant signs of water pooling especially around the wiring. I know the seat belt having mold on it can happen when a car lies idle but it could also have been caused by damp from water ingress.
Hi Dean, Mercs are notorious for electric problems as the connectors are not very water proof. Try cleaning all connectors with switch cleaner that connect to the gearbox. I had a gearbox issue cured by cleaning front module connectors, not the ECU, my code was 'Lost communication with transmission'. Like your videos as like mechanicals things but now don't need to get my hands dirty.
I'm not sure if it's just how the camera makes things sound, but I could hear a groaning noise on the interior footage at low speeds. I think you were on the right track when you said get the gearbox oil dropped before you go any further. It'd be interesting to see how much comes out and if it's got anything in there that shouldn't be. As others have said, if it's been sat in water, there's a chance of corroded connectors. It's not fun, but get it in the air and start going round all the electrical connections.
Hi from durham dean👋👍 hope you had nice easter weekend🐣🐇 and have a quick look at all sams bcm etc check for corrosion if electrical but I would still considered maybe doin gearbox service she probably been rode hard put away wet! And was or has there been any signs of water anywhere? For water/flood car the only signs damp in the cockpit so far seatbelts and steering wheel etc maybe ecu a challenging one? Hope to get her sorted tho and good luck, cant wait to see where this one goes👌 thanks for your time and be safe see you soon👍👋
I had my 2010 c class diesel remapped and after that it was very slow reversing and you had to rev it like heck to get anywhere. Maybe the person who did the remapping wasn't aware that my car had two reverse gear ratios
i think you might be right also about low gear box oil pressure , i had a gl350 with a 722.9 ( same as yours ) gearbox with a small transmission oil leak from the trans cooler and eventually when i replaced the transmission oil and filtre there was only about 5l left in it ( including the torque converter oil ) and there should have been 9l total , i advice to change the oil and filtre on that gearbox as well
The boxes are laggy I have the C63 wagon and compared to DSG boxes they are prehistoric. They do need regular maintenance by changing the box oil and filter, not very expensive to do couple hundred quid for filter, oil and the pan seal.
Not being funny but replacing a battery on a Merc/BMW have to be pretty much a genuine battery. I've seen many cases where people put on an aftermarket battery and it doesn't cure the problem. Put on an OEM battery and hey presto. Definitely worth putting fresh filters and oil in the engine and box. Dean, I love the way you think out loud, gives me the giggles. Have a good day mate.
Looking at the faults which came up on the dash when you were having the voltage problems, the abs and esp warning came up. Was thinking, out of all the modules which could have come up it was that fault which showed. Could be a problem on the abs sensor or module which will then cause problem on the esp. Perhaps the sensor reading being erratic will mess up the gearbox shift times as the engine speed is not being read correctly. You could put a diagnostic tool on and monitor the 4 wheel speed sensors and see if they are stable and correct.
There's no dodgy or broken ABS or speed sensors is there? I had a couple of cars that had one fail and the dashboard turned into a christmas tree each time, but only after the car started moving. Great vid though, keep up the good work.
Deffo do a full gearbox service mate. Also as said check the conductor plate, and gearbox electrics. Il bet it's water ingress combined with an issue with the conductor plate. The changes are really jerky too, which shouldn't happen
Does that transmission have solenoid valves to change /engage the gears ?? A faulty oil level sensor on my 7 series caused the car to randomly cut out , apparently the sensor was dragging down the ecu voltage. If your car has been under water it's probably water has got in somewhere. The car could have been in a foot of water and that was enough to stop the transmission working rather than the engine
I had same issue with my facelift, the strange noise coming from it seems similar. The problem is on and off and sometimes worse than others. I swapped oil cooler and had gearbox flushed and redone and that fixed it. Before this i had similar problem changing the pedal or sensor stopped it.
judging by the amount of mold on the seat belt and other parts of the interior, its definitely been damp or wet inside the car. I would be looking to sanitise the interior before you drive it much further.
The car may also need to be told it has a new battery, like bmw perhaps it gradually increases volt output. Dont know if mercs are the same but its worth a try.
@Kris Nicholson it is true. The battery management system needs to know its a new battery so it can adjust how it charges it. As stated, you can put in a new battery plug and play and the car will work just fine but the battery will last longer and perform better if it is coded in. I've had several different audis over the years and coding the battery has always been advised or the car will continue to overcharge the battery as if it was the old one. A good dealer or independent garage will always code it on fitting.
@Kris Nicholson you tell the car's energy management system it has a new battery so it can adjust the alternator output, you don't code the battery itself. Using vcds or a code reader you go into the gateway module and then put a new battery serial number in which tells the car its a fresh battery. All new batteries should be coded or you risk damaging the battery and shortening its life. You can put a new battery in without coding and it'll start straight away but it won't charge efficiently.
Dude. I know they are totally different cars however my kia sedona took alot off revs for it to move forward and it has a aisin torque converter trans. I dropped the oil, filter and cleaned the trans valves and now its fine. Different car but the principle is the same
check the oil in the gearbox, maybe put new oil in? or water got to the modules, samcrac bought a flood bmw m3. water was leaking in from a drain hose on the sunroof running down the A post into the footwell and onto a module under the seat
When alternators get submerged the voltage rectifier/regulator can get damaged… on some vehicles PCM’s control the voltage separate to alternator. Are there any control units under the carpet? I am guessing you have water damaged control units? Look under the carpet 👍
My pal had a similar problem with his clk 500 brabus. Turned out to be wrong grade oil in the gearbox I think. Oil and filter change sorted the problem.
Bluetooth OBD2 and Torque on a phone or tablet and you can watch voltage real time without multimeter. Also many other values to watch or save in real time such as boost that may have assisted on past projects.
Guessing one or more of the ECU seems goosed, I'm thinking by the state of that seat belt, it shows there's been water/damp in the cockpit for a long time
I’d look to that alternator if I were you.. I had a faulty one once, did the same thing. Started overcharging, then the car started shutting down ECUs.. some sort of failsafe 🤷🏻♂️
This is the standard 7g gearbox, to operate up to standards needs to be up to operating temperature. When sitting for more than 15 days needs to be driven for at least 30 minutes to get back fully operational oil pressure, it’s a weird one, get an oil service and a flush. Check all the modules for damp, there some underneath the carpets, but all of them are controlled by the front SAM module, if a bit of water gets in will throw random codes
My 330i behaved exactly the same and kept going in and out of limp mode, turned out to be a problem with gear 4 and had to have the gearbox redone, luckily i sold it before the work was done .
Yeah I think the voltage regulator is the cause of my warning lights. But no drive in reverse until I cycled the ignition is an odd one! Guess that could still be voltage regulator shutting the gearbox ecu down.
@@SavingSalvage I once had an issue with cruise control on a car I owned once, it would just accelerate on its own, bloody dangerous, and yes it was battery and voltage regulator issues 🤔.
@@SavingSalvage if memory serves me right there is a safety strip in the ECU’s to protect it against spikes in power, by recycling the key it resets the ECU 🤔
Has it got a smart charge system where you need to tell/code the car if it's had a new battery etc? If it's had a flat knackered one in it, would it still be trying to charge that, hence the increased charge rate/volts?
@@SavingSalvage my 2006 BMW 550i has a smart charge system for the battery. Depending on how things were when the old battery was changed, you have to tell the car its had a new one, tell it the amp hours of the new one etc
Do these not use the MCT wet clutch transmission. So not quite a torque converter but based on the same torque converter 7g tronic. The torque converter is then replaced with a set of wet clutch packs for better performance and launch.
Is the car new enough to warrant the car being coded to accept the new battery? Many newer cars need to be told they have a new battery to adjust the charging.
Try a gearbox reset. It it's the same zf8 box as the Audi plant the accelerator with the ignition off, turn one click to ignition on, hold for 15 secs then turn off. Might sort the gearbox at least
Dean I've got the icarsoft obd scanner for the mercedes that allows you to go into the different modules of the car as well as the battery reset.. im happy to let you borrow it if you want ? saves buying one
Also @Saving Salvage book the C63 at a main dealer for a heath check and see if you can get them to look into checking for software updates for the transmission/engine control units that will help!
The voltage regulator is an absolute no brained here, if thats kicking out over 17 volts, the ecus on that will.be going haywire....your experiencing that box going into limp mode, thats why it resets with the ignition....bang an alternator on.
I agree when he broke down he said everything was shutting down heavy steering etc my focus done the same when the alternator wasn't charging the battery
Don’t what it is with mercs but…. My Vito will show the abs/ esp warning light 5 seconds before it goes into limp mode. Turn it off and back on again and it might not happen again for a couple of months ??
Low battery voltage will give you all manner of electrical gremlins, maybe change the gearbox oil and filter.. maybe replace for a new battery and start from there..
Gearbox oil/filter replacement should help that possibly contaminated from the water
This guy really does take on the most difficult technical challenges. Very absorbing viewing.
Would certainly do a gearbox oil and filter service before driving it anymore.
get your engine and trans the Motul🤓 oil treatment nevertheless Mercedes Genuine Fluids are best. flushes, pre-treatments and fluids. also change brake fluid. mate i previously maintained our family mercs in damp tempura area.
not Motul sponcer just have gotten reliable results with Motul. complete treatments
Yeah, kinda not get it why he didn't do that right away considering the gearbox issues
0 00p
I really don’t understand why you wouldn’t do a complete fluid change throughout plus filters. It would eliminate doubt about that.
Highly recommend a gearbox oil and filter change, but ask them to carry out a readaption which will sort it out 👌
Great video as always.
These gearboxes are so sluggish when cold.
Especially in Comfort when it starts in 2nd gear, crabbing can be quite noticeable too with cold tyres.
Try the throttle position reset to reset the gearbox adaption too, some videos online about putting the ignition in position 2 and holding down the accelerator peddle for like 10 seconds.
Rocker head covers develop cracks if the smoke comes back, it could be dripping onto the downpipes.
Same problem with mine, turned out to be the RPM sensor on one of the front wheel bearings. Easy cheap fix!
I work at Mercedes as a tech, the battery will need to be reset so the ecu knows it’s been changed and also gearbox oil change highly advise doing sounds like the problem you are having we get them quite a lot when they haven’t been changed in a long time and customer says it feels sluggish when setting off
Mine has gear oil changed twice in a year and still sluggish when cold 🥶 and I've reset everything regards to holding throttle pedal down etc. Did improve but not much.
@@simonking5010 sounds like the valve body/transmission control unit needs a software update/teach in to me pal
@@RhysTatterson81 what do you mean tech into you?
@@simonking5010 You are able to use Mercedes own diagnostic computer and do adaptation/teach in to transmission which allows you to teach in the gear changes and build oil pressure for the valve body and torque converter
@@RhysTatterson81 OK cheers mate
Check for control 'Relays' being water damaged, especially those used by convenience control module (normally located drivers side foot well - most cars). These can be stuck 'normally open' or 'normally closed' and will not switch over when required to do so.
This can be intermittent, hence ignition reset sometimes corrects the issue, but they will eventually fail.
This will also explain the all the warning lights on the dash. Typically having all warning lights is a result of various control modules not responding to self checks or even diagnostic when plugged in.
A loss of power, revs, steering triggering limp home mode being will also be a result of a comms failure between modules, but a simple check of whether the relays are mechanically clicking in and out may be a cheap quick fix.
Another great series! Really enjoy the raw commentary as and when you discover and resolve the issues. Fantastic and enjoyable insight.
Good to see you back buddy, lots of good advice already. Keep plugging away, I know you Wiil get this beastie sorted 👍😎
I've been looking forward to another video on this car, shame you haven't found the problem yet but you'll get there. This reminds me of a Passat I once owned, it had the same weird electrical gremlins and ran like crap. Water made its way into the passenger footwell, corroded a load of terminals and soaked the BCM, sorted that out and it's still going strong. Believe it or not the water was screwing with my oil pressure readings. I'd also be inclined to do what others have suggested, change the gear oil (regardless of flood damage or not, the previous owner thrashed it) and get that 666 number plate on eBay for the cost of the retention.
Morning. Maybe change the gearbox oil and filter just for peace of mind? Great video as always 👍🏻
It's amazing how many owners don't know about the gearbox filter.
I fully agree yes renew the transmission oil/fluid, it’s a bit more complicated as it’s an automatic and would probably require the torque converter to be flushed as well best regards to you and everyone out there mark from billericay 😃👍🇬🇧
Yeah the so called “sealed for life” gearboxes by so many manufacturers is all a load of bs, on my E class, the plug connector has to be replaced every time also as it has a seal between the plug and gearbox, and it’s not too bad, but still more expense with the cost of genuine oil and filter too
@@moodyk1979 they are crafty and greedy they want it to break or go wrong so you buy another one I believe that prevention is better than cure I service my van 🚐 regularly every year and yes I’m a fussy old tart kind regards to you mark from the U.K. 🇬🇧
Welcome back mate and thank you for the new video, perfect for a hangover on Easter Monday.
Dean the over voltage could be sending the gearbox ecu into turmoil.
And if there has been water damage of some sort it would explain the alternator’s voltage spiking perhaps.
Another combination could also be contaminated gearbox oil? But this is another “if it really was flood damage” thing? But that wouldn’t explain the over charging but could be contributing factor.
As it's been owned by a chav previously . I'd be checking for aftermarket devices plumbed into the canbus for starters. This is a car as a whole issue. Then move on to waterlogged ecu's. Sam crac had the same issue almost exactly with a waterlogged seat module under the foot well on his X6M
Great to see you back again Dean, I hope all is well with you and the family, great video as always
I actually liked this episode/video because it shows you how an experience high-level auto technician's mind works connected to problem-solving
Also, there is a software update on i know the 2009 C class, (dealer info) The default setting if the battery is flat for a time or the gearbox conductor is new, is that it reverts to the U.S. setting, which has a built in 2 second delay in reverse, i kid you not! 🙂 If its just reverse that lags, pursue this before tearing it down. Hope its simple!
Always loved the exhaust note of these cars. So raw and guttural
I would definitely change the gearbox oil and filter, take the valve body down and check any water contamination too. Also make sure the gearbox isn’t in “W” mode for winter, as that makes it more sluggish to pull away to stop wheel spin in winter. Make sure it’s in C or S.
Yes I would definitely get a Star diagnostics on it, as normal systems like Carly or OBD readers cannot interrogate all the modules and ECU’s in the car.
I would also leave the multimeter on the battery and keep the revs of the engine up to at least 1.5-2k for 5 mins and see if the voltage is stable or not, but as someone else said, you usually need to reset the BCM to tell the system it has a new battery but I can’t remember on this year if it’s needed.
It’s funny because when stationery it’s fine, as soon as you start moving it starts failing, there could be some ABS sensor failures causing the car to go into power reduced mode or some corroded wiring / connectors. Might be worth jacking up and going over all the connectors to the wheels especially if it’s been in some kind of flood damage. The Star machine will definitely help you out loads if you can borrow one as they cost ££££
Water contamination in the gearbox, seems very likely. Change the oil and filter. Also, water may have corrupted the conductor plate in the bottom of the box. Both easy jobs. Parts are surprisingly inexpensive from Merecedes, done several. Good luck!
if this turns out to be the mvp comment il be chuffed
Yeah just watched this and this was my first thought. As for the rest of the electronics of the car, like he said a regulator overcharging the system can cause it or water ingress in a module could do it as well.
I come from more of a VAG background, so no direct Merc C class experience but this definitely gets my vote too. My immediate thought also turned to contamination of the box or associated electronics / trans controller. Moisture in trans controller is quite a common fault on the generation of S6 I have. The mould in the car suggest it's certainly been quite wet at some point so seems worth following up on. Best of luck.
@@benfrancis4896 Agreed Ben. The level of damp points to water ingress, and we both know the carnage that can cause. it will be in everything, 'green crusties' on every connection. If he could work out how far the water got up to that wold help, but multi module & harness issues are likely.
I am want to know why there is mold on the steering wheel and the seatbeld.. maybe there is water under the carpet as well and under the back Seat???
Voltage regulator is fairly common on these bud causing all sorts of electrical mayhem. Also one of the abs sensors playing up will make the transmission behave as yours is doing. Had a c63 in not long ago doing the same, abs sorted it straight away
Best of luck. Keep the videos coming 👌🏽👍🏼
The sound of that V8 is just heavenly and I love it, seems to have some up and go
When you had the high voltage on the battery with the car running, the jumpstarter was still connected to the battery. These tend to output quite a bit more than 12V to get an old diesel started quickly. Just so you have some extra juice to turn the engine around.
Pretty sure that's the reason you saw the high voltage on the battery.
Again " brilliant " German investigative tech ! well done , good luck ~ we love it ..
Good to see you back👍
great video as allways love the way you methodically try to solve the problems but what a beast of a car ive got a c220 d looks a little like that lol but its like a paper plane my car harrier jump jet c63 keep trying great content
My wife having watched the latest part said , look at the plate ! M666 !! The buggers possessed 😆 can't wait for the next part .
Would it be worthwhile checking the Ecu's and connectors for water ingress ?, Car sounds great, you'll get it sorted, well done Dean.
Possibly gearbox tcm (Transmision Control Module). Check for corroded terminals Bell out wiring if need be.
Abs lights coming on can play havoc with the box.. As others have said gearbox oil change and fix the voltage reg.. That will more than likely sort it.
I have a C63 same model...once in running order they are phenomenal...last naturally aspirated V8 Mercedes made...hang onto it.
That thing sounds mental! Good luck with getting to the bottom of the issues, in the meantime get that seatbelt clean 😀
Thank you for new video 👋💪
I like the way you so carefully covered the registration plate for previous videos and the start of this one, but forgot when you changed the battery.....with those numbers 666 it must be the beast 🤣🤣🤣
Dunno why it says FSH? Should be no SH
I’ve heard of the TDC sensor on this C63 car throwing all sort of issues, especially acceleration and reverse issues, might be worth a look. Looking at the previous owners videos, it’s highly likely the way it was driven and tested on the dyno, it’s been played around with. Is there any water around the SAM module? Irritating I know but love the fault finding😊
Do the batteries on these not have to be coded in so the smart charging system knows the correct charge?
Can't wait for the next one ... I'm a vw group guy but that AMG looks sounds class
you are lucky friend... count your blessings. not mechanical not fluids use the money saved and buy MB Star C3 or C4... really excited for you. didnt go as planned but awsome!!.. the car did take in much moisture. seat belts were moldy. your c63 is probably a sealed model. put water absobant pack in car over several nights and watch them fill up.. happy for you. keep vids coing from an insiring youtube merades tuber
~AconcernedHaitian
Flood damage could refer to any water getting into the car, I would be pulling back the carpets and sound insulation to look for any significant signs of water pooling especially around the wiring. I know the seat belt having mold on it can happen when a car lies idle but it could also have been caused by damp from water ingress.
Sounds likely the flooding affected the interior of the car. Most likely the damage will not be cured without stripping the interior.
With the mould on steering wheel and seat belt check under the carpets for water / damp. Possibly messing with electrical connections?
Hi Dean, Mercs are notorious for electric problems as the connectors are not very water proof. Try cleaning all connectors with switch cleaner that connect to the gearbox. I had a gearbox issue cured by cleaning front module connectors, not the ECU, my code was 'Lost communication with transmission'. Like your videos as like mechanicals things but now don't need to get my hands dirty.
Water in the gearbox causing the TCM to freak out? Bad ground for the battery over charging?
I'm not sure if it's just how the camera makes things sound, but I could hear a groaning noise on the interior footage at low speeds. I think you were on the right track when you said get the gearbox oil dropped before you go any further. It'd be interesting to see how much comes out and if it's got anything in there that shouldn't be. As others have said, if it's been sat in water, there's a chance of corroded connectors. It's not fun, but get it in the air and start going round all the electrical connections.
Hi from durham dean👋👍 hope you had nice easter weekend🐣🐇 and have a quick look at all sams bcm etc check for corrosion if electrical but I would still considered maybe doin gearbox service she probably been rode hard put away wet! And was or has there been any signs of water anywhere? For water/flood car the only signs damp in the cockpit so far seatbelts and steering wheel etc maybe ecu a challenging one? Hope to get her sorted tho and good luck, cant wait to see where this one goes👌 thanks for your time and be safe see you soon👍👋
Great video mate I'm sure you will sort it 👍
Sounds awesome 👍👍
Sound's great to me 😂 Obviously got a de-cat pipe fitted, neighbour of mine got one same, it's so loud 🙉 Cheers Sam - Cannock Staffs . . .
Wouldn’t this age vehicle still come under needing to carry out a battery adaptation so the alternator charges at a new/old battery rate
I had my 2010 c class diesel remapped and after that it was very slow reversing and you had to rev it like heck to get anywhere. Maybe the person who did the remapping wasn't aware that my car had two reverse gear ratios
i think you might be right also about low gear box oil pressure , i had a gl350 with a 722.9 ( same as yours ) gearbox with a small transmission oil leak from the trans cooler and eventually when i replaced the transmission oil and filtre there was only about 5l left in it ( including the torque converter oil ) and there should have been 9l total , i advice to change the oil and filtre on that gearbox as well
The Car Is Going Through Re-Learn Procedure !! .............. AnyWay Great Vlog !! ............. Bless
The boxes are laggy I have the C63 wagon and compared to DSG boxes they are prehistoric. They do need regular maintenance by changing the box oil and filter, not very expensive to do couple hundred quid for filter, oil and the pan seal.
Great video!
Not being funny but replacing a battery on a Merc/BMW have to be pretty much a genuine battery. I've seen many cases where people put on an aftermarket battery and it doesn't cure the problem.
Put on an OEM battery and hey presto.
Definitely worth putting fresh filters and oil in the engine and box.
Dean, I love the way you think out loud, gives me the giggles.
Have a good day mate.
I have w205 and when my battery went faulty mine was doing the same as yours so it could be the voltage reg.
Looking at the faults which came up on the dash when you were having the voltage problems, the abs and esp warning came up. Was thinking, out of all the modules which could have come up it was that fault which showed. Could be a problem on the abs sensor or module which will then cause problem on the esp. Perhaps the sensor reading being erratic will mess up the gearbox shift times as the engine speed is not being read correctly. You could put a diagnostic tool on and monitor the 4 wheel speed sensors and see if they are stable and correct.
There's no dodgy or broken ABS or speed sensors is there?
I had a couple of cars that had one fail and the dashboard turned into a christmas tree each time, but only after the car started moving.
Great vid though, keep up the good work.
Deffo do a full gearbox service mate. Also as said check the conductor plate, and gearbox electrics. Il bet it's water ingress combined with an issue with the conductor plate.
The changes are really jerky too, which shouldn't happen
Keep at it mate.
Does that transmission have solenoid valves to change /engage the gears ?? A faulty oil level sensor on my 7 series caused the car to randomly cut out , apparently the sensor was dragging down the ecu voltage. If your car has been under water it's probably water has got in somewhere. The car could have been in a foot of water and that was enough to stop the transmission working rather than the engine
I had same issue with my facelift, the strange noise coming from it seems similar. The problem is on and off and sometimes worse than others. I swapped oil cooler and had gearbox flushed and redone and that fixed it. Before this i had similar problem changing the pedal or sensor stopped it.
This car sounds insane. Please post some more videos with revving 🙂
judging by the amount of mold on the seat belt and other parts of the interior, its definitely been damp or wet inside the car. I would be looking to sanitise the interior before you drive it much further.
Not too long between videos if you wouldn’t mind my matey, really enjoying them though, I gearbox oil and filter change should dramatically help !
Nightmare, looking forward to the next one, thanks
Ahh good old Merc's, always throwing curve balls.
The car may also need to be told it has a new battery, like bmw perhaps it gradually increases volt output. Dont know if mercs are the same but its worth a try.
Was going to suggest this also
@Kris Nicholson audis need the battery coded too in regardless of start stop. the car will still run, the battery just won't work optimally
@Kris Nicholson it is true. The battery management system needs to know its a new battery so it can adjust how it charges it. As stated, you can put in a new battery plug and play and the car will work just fine but the battery will last longer and perform better if it is coded in. I've had several different audis over the years and coding the battery has always been advised or the car will continue to overcharge the battery as if it was the old one. A good dealer or independent garage will always code it on fitting.
@Kris Nicholson it's the car that is coded not the battery...
@Kris Nicholson you tell the car's energy management system it has a new battery so it can adjust the alternator output, you don't code the battery itself. Using vcds or a code reader you go into the gateway module and then put a new battery serial number in which tells the car its a fresh battery. All new batteries should be coded or you risk damaging the battery and shortening its life. You can put a new battery in without coding and it'll start straight away but it won't charge efficiently.
I can so relate with these emotions you're having
Dean have you tried to use the flappy paddles to see if it will manually go through the gears?
Dude. I know they are totally different cars however my kia sedona took alot off revs for it to move forward and it has a aisin torque converter trans. I dropped the oil, filter and cleaned the trans valves and now its fine. Different car but the principle is the same
I would be inclined to service the transmission to eliminate the possibility that is simply the issue.
What is the plug in you use on the VAG cars to unlock all the features etc please? Car something isn't it? It's an plug in for the diag port
check the oil in the gearbox, maybe put new oil in? or water got to the modules, samcrac bought a flood bmw m3. water was leaking in from a drain hose on the sunroof running down the A post into the footwell and onto a module under the seat
When alternators get submerged the voltage rectifier/regulator can get damaged… on some vehicles PCM’s control the voltage separate to alternator. Are there any control units under the carpet? I am guessing you have water damaged control units?
Look under the carpet 👍
My pal had a similar problem with his clk 500 brabus. Turned out to be wrong grade oil in the gearbox I think. Oil and filter change sorted the problem.
I had an issue on a c class where the radiator had failed allowing the gearbox oil to mix with the coolant which resulted in needing a new gearbox
2:42 urgh that’s filthy 💪
Bluetooth OBD2 and Torque on a phone or tablet and you can watch voltage real time without multimeter. Also many other values to watch or save in real time such as boost that may have assisted on past projects.
Guessing one or more of the ECU seems goosed, I'm thinking by the state of that seat belt, it shows there's been water/damp in the cockpit for a long time
I’d look to that alternator if I were you.. I had a faulty one once, did the same thing. Started overcharging, then the car started shutting down ECUs.. some sort of failsafe 🤷🏻♂️
Limp mode???
My cl 63 has abs light on sometimes and think it may well be a speed sensor
Doesn’t select gear sometimes
First time you were measureing (and getting 17v) you had your charging pack connected, which itself was probably drawing power to charge itself up??
Well... this is clearly a case for the ghostbusters.
This is the standard 7g gearbox, to operate up to standards needs to be up to operating temperature. When sitting for more than 15 days needs to be driven for at least 30 minutes to get back fully operational oil pressure, it’s a weird one, get an oil service and a flush. Check all the modules for damp, there some underneath the carpets, but all of them are controlled by the front SAM module, if a bit of water gets in will throw random codes
My 330i behaved exactly the same and kept going in and out of limp mode, turned out to be a problem with gear 4 and had to have the gearbox redone, luckily i sold it before the work was done .
As people have already said gear box oil and filter change will help, the electrical issues are normally a duff battery or alternator
Yeah I think the voltage regulator is the cause of my warning lights. But no drive in reverse until I cycled the ignition is an odd one! Guess that could still be voltage regulator shutting the gearbox ecu down.
@@SavingSalvage I once had an issue with cruise control on a car I owned once, it would just accelerate on its own, bloody dangerous, and yes it was battery and voltage regulator issues 🤔.
@@SavingSalvage if memory serves me right there is a safety strip in the ECU’s to protect it against spikes in power, by recycling the key it resets the ECU 🤔
Does the battery need to be coded to the car like in a BMW?
So the alternator charges at the correct rate
Even vag car batteries need to be coded,
my ford battery also had to be coded
Has it got a smart charge system where you need to tell/code the car if it's had a new battery etc? If it's had a flat knackered one in it, would it still be trying to charge that, hence the increased charge rate/volts?
It’s a 2008, not sure how smart cars where back then 🤣
@@SavingSalvage my 2006 BMW 550i has a smart charge system for the battery. Depending on how things were when the old battery was changed, you have to tell the car its had a new one, tell it the amp hours of the new one etc
Yeah my 2008 a4 needs the battery coding when it's been changed
Do these not use the MCT wet clutch transmission. So not quite a torque converter but based on the same torque converter 7g tronic. The torque converter is then replaced with a set of wet clutch packs for better performance and launch.
Common issues are the gearbox ecu plugs which get contaminated with gearbox oil and the rear abs rings
Is the car new enough to warrant the car being coded to accept the new battery? Many newer cars need to be told they have a new battery to adjust the charging.
I have a 2013 c63 and I know it has a wet clutch system. No torque converter. Not sure about the pre face lift tho. Try doing a transmission reset.
Try a gearbox reset. It it's the same zf8 box as the Audi plant the accelerator with the ignition off, turn one click to ignition on, hold for 15 secs then turn off. Might sort the gearbox at least
Dean I've got the icarsoft obd scanner for the mercedes that allows you to go into the different modules of the car as well as the battery reset.. im happy to let you borrow it if you want ? saves buying one
Also @Saving Salvage book the C63 at a main dealer for a heath check and see if you can get them to look into checking for software updates for the transmission/engine control units that will help!
Low oil pressure in the gearbox would be my guess, jerky downshifts are common symptoms.
The voltage regulator is an absolute no brained here, if thats kicking out over 17 volts, the ecus on that will.be going haywire....your experiencing that box going into limp mode, thats why it resets with the ignition....bang an alternator on.
I agree when he broke down he said everything was shutting down heavy steering etc my focus done the same when the alternator wasn't charging the battery
He's right about one thing he does not know
Don’t what it is with mercs but…. My Vito will show the abs/ esp warning light 5 seconds before it goes into limp mode. Turn it off and back on again and it might not happen again for a couple of months ??
Low battery voltage will give you all manner of electrical gremlins, maybe change the gearbox oil and filter.. maybe replace for a new battery and start from there..
Great to see your back hope you are well!