Depends but most of the time the engineer just says how to build it and out of what approved materials just like the rest of the house. An engineer isn't going to come inspect how you built your floor he's just gonna provide the plans, same for this. Unless the local building and planning department says otherwise.
@@Sweenorbuilders Like Steve also asked below, that Luan is usually vastly inferior to the wood used in the Glulam beams (unless specifically graded and rated). Plus you have anywhere from 1/2-7/8 of the wood fibers running in the "wrong" direction compared to the commercial beams with a lot of luan underlayments having super thin outer plies and a thick garbage cross ply in the center. It may not matter in this case as the beam is relatively short, but it should be noted for the public that this is not a case of 1:1 substitution of a commercially rated Glulam beam. I would have used either 1/4" exterior plywood, 1/4" marine grade plywood, or 1/4" solid wood. The first two plywoods would have a greater percentage of the wood fibers running lengthwise, plus the guarantee of an exterior rated (and structural) adhesive between the plies. Marine plywood would generally be guaranteed to be void free. Solid sawn wood has 100% of the fibers running in the correct direction, no voids, and no mystery glue to deal with.
i'm trying to figure out how much all that epoxy cost....
Thank you for sharing this interesting video. Have a Nice Day~! 😃
Thanks you for your video
"Learned everything from watching you on This Old House." Yeah, me too.
More like this!
Fascinating.
What kind of glue do you use on your beams
so epoxy is better to make curved beams than wood glue? i wanna make a curved wood dinning table but im barely a beginner
Yes, definitely
@@Sweenorbuilders thank you so much for the swift reply even on a video 4 years old!
Did you just use a the generic 2 part epoxy or did you also use an microfiber additive?
Eric Watson We used west system two-part epoxy 105 resin with 205 Hardner and we used 403 microfiber filler
Did it have to have engineers stamp?
Depends but most of the time the engineer just says how to build it and out of what approved materials just like the rest of the house. An engineer isn't going to come inspect how you built your floor he's just gonna provide the plans, same for this. Unless the local building and planning department says otherwise.
Enjoyed your video. Could you tell me what type of expoy (brand) you used and if it would be appropriate for an exterior pergola beam.
John Galt - Check out West System. Thanks for watching!
Excellent, thanks for the help!
John Galt we used west system Apoxsee 105 resin with 205 Hardner and added 403 microfiber. And this beam that we did was for exterior application
@@Sweenorbuilders what was the Luan plywood rated as?
@@Sweenorbuilders Like Steve also asked below, that Luan is usually vastly inferior to the wood used in the Glulam beams (unless specifically graded and rated). Plus you have anywhere from 1/2-7/8 of the wood fibers running in the "wrong" direction compared to the commercial beams with a lot of luan underlayments having super thin outer plies and a thick garbage cross ply in the center. It may not matter in this case as the beam is relatively short, but it should be noted for the public that this is not a case of 1:1 substitution of a commercially rated Glulam beam.
I would have used either 1/4" exterior plywood, 1/4" marine grade plywood, or 1/4" solid wood. The first two plywoods would have a greater percentage of the wood fibers running lengthwise, plus the guarantee of an exterior rated (and structural) adhesive between the plies. Marine plywood would generally be guaranteed to be void free. Solid sawn wood has 100% of the fibers running in the correct direction, no voids, and no mystery glue to deal with.
Seems like only half, or quarter of the story.
Peeyump
I made it by myself. I used woodprix woodworking plans for that.