Well, I've just put mine together exactly like this and the fact that my wife said it sounds much better (even though she didn’t have a clue why i was doing it) says it all. The difference is amazing! I could only turn the volume up about 70% before i fitted this at which point the feedback/rumbling would start, now i turn it up to 90% volume(don't see any reason to go beyond this and risk damaging the amp) and there is zero feedback/rumbling. Sound difference is hard to explain, saying its clearer or fuller base just doesn't cut it, its got to be heard to appreciate it. So glad ive done this, thanks greatly for posting this video. 😊
Thanks for posting this video. I just did this exactly as described except I did not stain the IKEA boards. I think they look just fine as is. Without a doubt this setup significantly improved my stereo system sound. System: McIntosh 5300 integrated amp, Technics SL-1210GR turntable, Pro-Ject Tube Box DS2 phono preamp, Denon DCD-1700NE sacd/cd player, McIntosh XR-240 speakers. I am going to do this for my second turntable as well. Thanks again!
Thanks, looks like a great idea, perfect size for my GR2 turntable ... just ordered the parts, approx. $83.00 USD all-in with taxes & shipping ... for that kind of money, absolutely worth a try. Thanks again.
Great concept and well executed. But...... It is my understanding that spikes are not isolators. They are typically used under speakers stands on concrete floors to anchor the speakers and prevent them from rocking. My cheap and cheerful turntable isolation system is a 14 x 18 piece of kitchen countertop granite sat on Vibrapod isolators. Works a treat!
@@Straitjacket808 Tried that years ago. Way too bouncy!!! Now running a IsoAcoustics zaZen II Isolation Platform under my Thorens TD125. Sometimes DIY is great, sometimes better to go with a professionally engineered solution.
Back in the early 70’s I remember that we would build a box with a plywood bottom and sides made out of 1x6. We made the box allowing about 1 inch clearance between the sides of the box and the edge of my old Garard SL95 turntable. Add clean sand to a depth of about 3 inches in the box, set the turntable in the sand and that was it. We made sure it was set properly, “we thought” by giving it the Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon Test set at a volume level that would get the old people in the apartment downstairs angry. “Caution drugs may have been involved.” I’m not sure if any of this actually did any good at isolating the turntable but we thought it was cool.
I suspect it may have done wonders for resonance but introduced other issues that our teen ears would have been unlikely to notice, unless (oddly) we listened to bluegrass music. I was a teen in the 70s also. The setup you describe would do well at isolating the turntable and would have probably allowed you to crank up the volume further on a high-output amp without getting feedback. However, I suspect you may have introduced some wow and flutter. If you did not take care to frequently check that the turntable is perfectly level, that would be a problem. I think the best practice in your case would have been to level the table perfectly, just as you would on any other surface, then set your counterweight and anti-skate. Re-check the level very often and re-do the setup whenever needed. I think the problem would be that the sand would allow the deck to settle irregularly between its feet, and so the leveling would be lost. I was a deejay in the 80s and learned that bluegrass or sometimes piano music can help reveal wow and flutter issues. You want a passage with heavy notes played slowly, preferably by one instrument. Listen for distortions in the pitch of the notes being struck as they resonate, and you can hear this type of error. My go-to for this function is the opening bars of Eric Weisberg and Steve Mandel’s ‘Dueling Banjoes’, which can be found on the soundtrack from the movie ‘Deliverance’.
Thank you so much for this idea! Instead of a turntable I'm using it for my resin 3D printer. I live on an active volcano right next to a major road in a second story apartment. So many ruined 3D prints, the supports just don't stand a chance. I'm also adding a couple layers of really big really soft mouse pads.
Ikea must sell most of their Butchers Blocks to Hi Fi enthusiasts than for Kitchen Chopping Board use ?!!, My Turntable (Avid Volvere mk4) is Wall Mounted on an "Apollo" wall shelf as is some other items including a Reel to Reel Tape Deck so can hold some weight!...The "Apollo" Wall shelves are either Single or Two Shelf units made of Steel Frame and Glass shelf with Spikes. Had them for many years now as floor in Hi Fi room is Wood Plank so a no go for Turntable to be on a floor mounted unit as even picked up me walking across room before buying these units (Four of them, 2 Single shelf, 2 Double shelf) Amplifier and matching Phono stage with their Power supply on wide AV Unit on floor as they are Huge and Heavy "Musical Fidelity KW Series" units... Great video, Thanks.
Hi nice video spring and rubber have resonant frequencies at which they don't work. At low frequencies say 4Hz the energy just passes through the spring/rubber but if you place a point contact such as a spike or the 2 contact points of a ball bearing the energy just rattles it and forms harmonics that the springs/rubber can absorb. This is why Linn and other high end turntables sound better on lightweight wobbly stands, Try putting your turntable on the box it came in. Remember that low frequency sound from the stylus that you cannot hear can clip the phono stage making distortion in the higher frequencies often this removal of low 1 or 2 or 3 or 4Hz interference stops this clipping and the whole sound is much better.
Keep it simple, MDF Board, layered with Cork sheet cut to size. Simple and inexpensive. No special tools. Paint mdf to required color. Add spikes, pucks whatever you desire. kiss is the best way! I even had the mdf cut at Home Depot for free. Cut the cork with a sharp knife, and assemble 30 minutes. Used 3 x 3/4 inch MDFB and 1/4 inch cork roll. Don't overthink it.
Funny thing; i just made a base out of a wood block and hockeypucks underneath, but i'm so convinced this is gonna work better that i just ordered 2 blocks from ikea and the spikes at amazon. Very cool vid, tnx 4 sharing! Btw, from the Netherlands.
Instead of the ball bearings, run a bead of silicone sealant in the grove. And remove the turntable lid when you’re playing it. It’s like a big resonance dish when it’s up.
Bamboo is not dense enough or? I see people marketing walnut or maple. I was going to buy material from Home Depot to make my own maple butcher board until a friend explained not all types of maple have the same density value. So, maple isn't maple isn't maple. Idk. Vibration is a .... BUZZ KILL thats for sure
So do the same thump test without the isolation base to get a real comparison. Note: I believe that cabinet is a Salamander Designs Oslo which I also have. I just did that test and was rather amazed at the result. When I placed the stylus on a record and just turned up the volume I started getting bad rumble, and that wasn't turned up all the way. I think it's just from the ambient noise since it's close to the furnace and it was running. So even if you isolate the turntable you can still be affected, but the isolation base would be worth the effort.
Have you tried it for speaker stands? Didn’t like the stain either! Would have looked better matching the turntable, black or a clear coat. Excellent job and nice material.
Thanks for the video. Ive just bought the 2 ikea butchers block and waiting for delivery of the feet and bearings. Looking forward to seeing any difference it will make.
Nice project. I would recommend removing the dust cover from your turntable when in use. It will catch sound waves generated by your speakers and feed them back into your turntable. It is worse when the cover is open but may do it to a lesser extent when closed. I don't use the hinges on mine at all. Simply set the cover on when not in use and set it off, out of harms way when you are listening. I have a low production item named Hip Joints that work on the same principle as the balls in your project except that the balls operate in machined billet aluminum cups. consider playing around with balls made of different materials. McMaster Carr is a good source. Well done!
God damn this is awesome. I bought 3 Ikea Aptitlig, one each for my Pre/Mono amp combo, but iv'e had never thought of the bearings in use, and i will defiantly try it out. Thx for this! Cheers from Denmark
Ingenious ! Although I cant understand why you would choose a stain which completely obstructed the grain of the wood. It appeared as if the wood grain had a pretty cool design on the sides of the platforms. Love the video.
Agreed. Last week we were comparing digital streaming with vinyl and I forgot to close the lid. The lid acted as a bass amplifier/loop and chairs began to move across the floor until I closed the lid.
Very nice, you've created a form of constrained layer damping. However I do think that there are better options for the steel balls and the feet. I would also add a further layer of absorption between the upper cutting board and the turntable plinth. Specifically, Silicone Nitride Ceramic Bearing balls and ISO-BAND TPE feet. Then either Herbie's "Tenderfoot"s or the highly effective "Equipment Vibration Protectors" for an absorption layer of the Turntable's internally generated vibrations. There are also a number of accessories and tweaks that will take the Turntable's fidelity to an even higher level. The cartridge and turntable arm are subject to vibrations. Vibration absorbing materials between the cartridge and headshell are helpful and there are materials that can dampen any negative tonearm vibrations. Of course too much dampening is as bad as not enough, so there's no substitute for experimentation. A "Platter Ground" can be efficacious. Plus, a system is a chain of components and any 'lesser' link in the system can reduce the apparent effectiveness of changes in the system. What a challenging but rewarding hobby we have found :-)
I used a paving slab for years and it was perfectly good but not very elegant. I swapped it to a 2 inch thick marble block and again it's perfectly fine
Very interesting, thanks! I currently use Aptltlig 3-layer cutting boards (like the ones you've used here) as a single-layer, so I think I'll get two more and make some dual-layer ones like you've done. With respect to mine, rather than "spikes/spike footers" between the bottom board and rack shelf, I'm placing mine on HRS Nimbus couplers (just the HRS rubber discs). These work very well to provide damping and the board sits _very stably_ on the rack shelf in this configuration. With respect to the ball bearings, I'll also try my Stillpoint Ultra Minis and see what they do, as they're currently sitting unused. Something else folks can try between the two Aptitlig boards, particularly for components that don't require the isolation that TTs do is, believe it or not, beeswax cloth. This will provide a "constrained layer" damping between the two boards. All you need is a couple 1" or so squares of beeswax cloth at each corner between the two Aptitlig boards. Once pressed together, they can be lifted and moved for placing as a single "unit". Cheers.
Most of the vibrations You're trying to isolate the turntable from are coming from the floor of Your room. You can hear footsteps through the TT, and if You plop down onto the couch, You could even make the tonearm skip. Having the turntable on a wall mounted shelf eliminates most of that sound without needing a special base.
I suspect it's more about floor construction rather than the audio setup. My TT does not react to any footsteps (or, of it does, it's below the preamp noise). But then it does not react to tapping the plynth as badly as our host's TT, too. No exotic woods, just a single magnesium alloy casting.
100% agree but Not everyone wants to mount it on the wall. I do not want it on my wall but I agree with you that wall is best. I am just trying to keept footsteps from showing up in my music from a hard wood floor. I currently use a big foam Speaker isolation pad and it works perfectly but it is ugly. I am going to try this but with Rubber feet instead of spikes. I do not like spikes but if the rubber feet do not work I will get something like IsoAcoustics ISO-PUCK's but I have feeling I will not need to for my purposes. Also Going to stain ti with India ink to make id black.
In his particular set up I agree. A TT sat over a floor mounted cabinet is never going to go well. There is the floor construction unknown to transmit footfall movement etc and the lightweight cabinet raising the TT 1m off this acting as a pendulum amplifying any floor vibrations. Like you mentioned, I mounted my TT on a plinth/shelf bolted directly to a brick wall which effectively adds tons of dampening mass for free. The TT then sits on sorbathene pads to isolate the arm as much as it can. AND it is all set in a recess effectively in an adjacent room (through an opening) which shields it from most of the airborne sound generated from the floor mounted speakers themselves. Although this looks a fun project there are waaaaay simpler ways to simply side step the issues most TT's are up against !
My TT is still mounted on a cheap wall stand bolted to an external wall and filled. Above will be far better if he used 3 spikes which is what mine was converted to 32 years ago. Wall stand had 4 spikes, converted to 3 spikes. Made a steel 8mm thick Y frame with 3 upturned spikes to sit on 3 spikes in wall frame. Y frame spikes go to an MDF board with steel pressings glied on underside. Music then comes to life it starts and it stops rather than mushes in to another note, bass is there, its fluid, soundstaging pops out and you can now hang on to any individual instument. All for a few pence.
Not totally true. Your speakers will produce resonance through the cabinet he has the table on, regardless of the floor. Note he is on a concrete floor already. Solutions include moving the speakers further away from the cabinet or isolation in some manner like this. I took a slab of granite with thick felt pads under it. Then put the same felt pads on the turntable feet. Some tables resist resonance better than others, depending on the build quality. For instance, my Technics SL-1200 has few issues with resonance and feedback. My Dual 1019 proved to be a battle.
Thank you for the great idea. Similarly im suffering from shelving vibration. It was overlooked and I was very discouraged. I had never heard of a hardwood isolation base. Thank you for a good diy solution.
Instead of steel ball bearings, would ceramic balls improve the isolation. I have substituted ceramic for steel balls in a Michell record deck together with other mods. In my humble opinion, this has made an improvement to the clarity of the sound, at the very least.
Have you checked the effectiveness of this contraption? I went at lengths to vibration isolate my TT only to discover that it added only 2dB to the maximum volume before acoustic feedback kicks in.
From what you have in your video as well as others mentioning in there comments too. The feet are not de-couplers they are in fact coupling to your glass and cabinet. Yes you will get some isolation from the mass but you will also get bad reflections from your cabinets. Stuff some furniture pads in those cabinets too guaranteed it will help. I only bring this up in order to help the situation. You need de-coupling feet under your turntable. Same concept goes for speakers couplers under granite slabs and then de-couplers attached to your speakers so they are floating from the isolation and not transmitting resonances to your wood. For a good reference Jim Smiths book "Get Better Sound" goes into this and his news letters as well. Hope this helps! IT looks good too !
Lots of comments on the this topic of decoupling. While pure decoupling would mean zero contact, decoupling also includes the domain of minimal contact. The feet are technically the layer of decoupling in sound vibration transmission in my version. Short of levitating, there is no way to completely decouple. Many people mention rubber and neoprene, and other variants of soft material, that is not decoupling either. That is absorption. I encourage people that don’t have a turntable base to try this project. It’s minimal cost and the results are truly impressive. If people prefer other methods, feel free to try something that works for you. Never intended this to be the project that schooled everyone on what is best. Cheers all.
@@Mixturerich Decoupling is a really hot topic right now. I dont think the comments here are meant as a negative. If you look at other videos posted here about it there are tons of comments. I think that is a good thing that a lot of us are experimenting with couple and de-couple. I think your table looks great and if it works for you thats all that matters. I have gone thru the exact same project and learned the hard way money wise what works best isolation wise. The only true floating de-coupler feet on the market that I have come across are the iso-acoustics Gaia feet. Give it a try they are true floating feet. I also switched out the bamboo since its acoustic resonance is very high compared to Butcher Block Acoustics solid maple with a much lower resonance.But still not as good as a granite slab that had the lowest resonance. You can pick some up at any lowes for under 40 bucks. In the end its just enjoyable to watch your video I wish I would have recorded mine.
I'd put silicone foam pads under the glass, be it a whold sheet, or 4" squares. You could try the following in your current design. use a 3/4 or 1" wood drill to make some half inch deep counterbores. Then place foam (or hollow squash or handball) balls between the plates.
I like! My Pioneer PL-7 that's in my living room entertainment center is setting on a thick piece of foam and it sorta works for now. I plan to eventually build a platform on the wall next to it for better playing, but I like this base you built. I've saved your video for a future project.
Ok... I can see the difference in vibration, the question is can you tell the difference in the music? In mean in blind test, can you tell by listening to the music which one has the isolation base , which one does not ? Just curious.
Beautiful job with the staining. Cool platform too. I’ve got the same TT as in the platform in The Audio Beat. Thanks, man. I’ll probably try it out, cuz my TT needs isolation. I may also go with Isonoe feet too. ✌️🎶🔊
Dan, nice video. I do have a question about the cutting boards used, does the cutting boards have to be that thick or can they be thinner? How much thinner can they be and still be effective? I ask that due to limited height space I have above my turntable. Thanks.
The Fluance RT-85/84 has 3 points adjustable isolation fleet and is a lot better than most TT out there. I would like to see the test with a lesser constructed TT. I had constructed the lower part but have not tried the idea of putting the ball bearings with another layer. It seems to be a very nifty idea. Thanks
I'm here looking for a solution for my RT85. I have hardwood floors and a raised foundation and I can't even walk around my room without hearing it through my speakers at moderately high volumes. Also bass heavy songs start a bass feedback loop and my whole room starts rumbling.
Hey @MixtureRich thanks for this video. I have a Mofi Ultradeck which has dimensions of 19.69" x 5.375" x 14.25" and that cutting board is 17 ¾x14 ¼ ". With that being said, the Ultradeck's feet are set in by at least 1.5". Maybe 2". Do you think that'll work?
Need to use bearings that are either 11mm or 12mm instead of 7/16. Did you find 7/16 tight or loose in the groove? Just need to figure out which would work best. Thanks
Why did they ever stop suspension in a turntable??? My older Thorens sits on the 3 springs and it's like it's floating on air. Cool little project tho.
@@nocturnal1970 ,Sorry I was a little vague there. Yea I know some still build suspended turntables. It used to be all had springs, now it seems a majority of the affordable ones don't. My TD 126 has them. I can smack the counter mine sits on pretty hard or tap with hammer next to turntable and hear nothing thru the speaker.
Thank you for an excellent tip. Can I use two sheets of granite or Italian marble one inch thick ? If yes should I used our ball bearings between like u did ? Thanks again
Thank you so much! for this DIY. Your demonstration of the degree of noise damping is enough for me. the design including hard berrings between hard surfaces between the feet and the speaker or turntablel is duplicated (at great expense on my Borrensen speaker) by Michael the engineer.. Michael the engineer could have picked any other design but he picked this one. i know there is a lot of argument on the best way to isolate, biut is is encouraging the best designers use this onel
Why not get a suspended turntable like the Thorens I have? Anyhow, use 3 adjustable feet instead of 4 as it cannot rock and is easier to level. I built 3 adjustable feet into my Thorens base which is as solid as a rock but doesn't rock. The Thorens platter and tonearm is suspended by 3 adjustable springs decoupling it from the motor and external vibrations. This is a superior setup without that bulky looking DIY setup.
My Ikea is backordered on this model ....on Amazon they have the same dimensions....17x12 but it is only .7' thick....think this will support my vintage Hitachi Turntable??? Will be using everything else as I have already ordered....please help as I am getting ready to order. Thanks
@@Mixturerich Thanks for the quick response! There actually is a wrong answer...the boards at half the thickness not being able to support my TT and crack in half? Do you think the thickness of .7 compared to 1.3 with the Ikea model can support this with the balls and spikes you recommended? Thanks again!
@@mccarthyd6603 Unless your TT weighs the same as an Abrams Tank, I think you'd be fine. Obviously thicker is better for mass dampening. But sometimes, you go with what you have.
@@Mixturerich Gotcha...will order...my TT weighs 19 lbs...hopefully both boards and the balls and spikes will support...going to be staring at it constantly like looking at my needle riding a warped record😳😳😳 Thanks again...great video👍
@@MixturerichGot the 2 boards from Amazon yesterday...and although only measuring in at 17 x12 x.7.....looks like it is going to work! Already noticing a major enhancement in sound and also have taken the dust cover off for the 1st time which is also reaping rewards sonically.... Thanks again and great video👍
You want to dampen at the bottom of the plinth and draws energy from the table, take the feet off and put underneath one piece 3" of cellulose foam making sure it's against around the main bearing tight or get a squash ball and fill it with tungsten powder and Super Glue it to the plinth engulfing the bearing and then the foam, you can take the feet off and put them on a separate board for adjustment and only one board is needed. Would be worth your while getting a phoenix engineer speed controller and the Roadrunner best thing for belt turntables, better than stand-alone control units better than vpi stand-alone control unit DIY audio you can build the kit
Hi, Great article. I intend to do it, better I was locking for some video where I could find what you put in images and words; however one info lacks me: the size of the bearings. Are they measured by number, diameter or perimeter? Another question in wich site can I order the bearings because in my village , certainly I will not find them. Thank you for your support.
Yes, the more you isolate the better it is but it is like diminishing returnes(becomes less and less effective).Don1t forget there are other factors,like how good is the rest of the system is,is it worth it etc.
Spikes dont decouple, they ground. They are used to add the mass of the surface they are placed onto, eg. (concrete floor) to speaker stands to make the stands heavier than the speakers. If you have a cabinet or floating floor, its usually best to decouple using sorbothane so the live sound of the surface doesnt travel through. You made great stands for speakers on a concrete floor but if it works and youre happy, power to you man.
I am not sure that spikes would ground/couple anything when on a hard surface like glass. The vibrations would have to, in essence, travel up through a point source. If he used a rubber foot or pad between the two boards I think it would work even better as a frequency that could cross the point source boundary would not likely also be able to travel through the rubber. But that’s just my 2 cents.
Crazy thing... as far as I know, this Newtonian steel ball pendulum swings "forever", at least for quite a long time. So much for absorbing energy with steel balls and other sonorous materials. But it definitely looks “interesting” ;-) People who are fitter in natural sciences would probably take more proper measures to absorb structure-borne noise, such as quartz sand, felt wool, etc. and combine them. Sheer mass such as concrete or marble bases would also help. Pick up a tuning fork (which is also made of steel and not felt of course...steel has excellent vibration properties, uc?) and test the differences. Let it swing - or even not. To experiment with lower frequencies and also stimulate your base with bass, buy a cheap transducer, also called a "bass shaker," and place it near your base. A decoupled base on a steel base would perhaps work if this frame were a standing triangle and a vibration ran up two legs and then canceled out through superposition at the tip. In the case of the upper cutting board, it hangs between the further away supports (balls) ideally free for swinging like a bridge. All in all, what's the gain? Another thing, the soundwaves in the room will hit the turntable anyway, with or without an absorbing base. This, if its really absorbing, only helps against the structure-borne noise mentioned above, with this non-rigid storage on wheels, the turntable becomes even more active again.
will these ball bearings work? www.amazon.ca/uxcell-Bearing-Balls-Stainless-Precision/dp/B07YKRC138/ref=sr_1_26?crid=37ZUWRSJFPHYQ&keywords=304%2B440%2BChrome%2BSteel%2BBearing%2BBalls&qid=1648657011&s=industrial&sprefix=304%2B440%2Bchrome%2Bsteel%2Bbearing%2Bballs%2B%2Cindustrial%2C222&sr=1-26&th=1
Well, I've just put mine together exactly like this and the fact that my wife said it sounds much better (even though she didn’t have a clue why i was doing it) says it all. The difference is amazing! I could only turn the volume up about 70% before i fitted this at which point the feedback/rumbling would start, now i turn it up to 90% volume(don't see any reason to go beyond this and risk damaging the amp) and there is zero feedback/rumbling. Sound difference is hard to explain, saying its clearer or fuller base just doesn't cut it, its got to be heard to appreciate it.
So glad ive done this, thanks greatly for posting this video. 😊
90%????? I'm lucky to hit 70% with new amp but that's about 90db. Are you sharing your music with your neighbours?
Thanks for posting this video. I just did this exactly as described except I did not stain the IKEA boards. I think they look just fine as is. Without a doubt this setup significantly improved my stereo system sound. System: McIntosh 5300 integrated amp, Technics SL-1210GR turntable, Pro-Ject Tube Box DS2 phono preamp, Denon DCD-1700NE sacd/cd player, McIntosh XR-240 speakers. I am going to do this for my second turntable as well. Thanks again!
The bamboo texture looks much better than the stained 😊
This is likely the best video on RUclips demonstrating noise isolation via tapping in various areas on and around the plinth.
Always fixed my turntables to the wall on two brackets....never had a problem!
Steel cones and balls perfectly transmit sound and vibration, the best way is porous rubber.
Thanks, looks like a great idea, perfect size for my GR2 turntable ... just ordered the parts, approx. $83.00 USD all-in with taxes & shipping ... for that kind of money, absolutely worth a try. Thanks again.
Great concept and well executed. But...... It is my understanding that spikes are not isolators. They are typically used under speakers stands on concrete floors to anchor the speakers and prevent them from rocking. My cheap and cheerful turntable isolation system is a 14 x 18 piece of kitchen countertop granite sat on Vibrapod isolators. Works a treat!
Correct, this is all about decoupling as he correctly states in the video 😉
You are right, and the ball bearings only work for lateral movement, the tapping is just working because of the two masses
Great idea. Try putting a softly inflated child's bicycle wheel inner tube between them?
@@Straitjacket808 Tried that years ago. Way too bouncy!!! Now running a IsoAcoustics zaZen II Isolation Platform under my Thorens TD125. Sometimes DIY is great, sometimes better to go with a professionally engineered solution.
@@RobertChampion1If you get the air pressure right it cuts out the bounce. Used one for years under my turntable to great effect
Back in the early 70’s I remember that we would build a box with a plywood bottom and sides made out of 1x6. We made the box allowing about 1 inch clearance between the sides of the box and the edge of my old Garard SL95 turntable. Add clean sand to a depth of about 3 inches in the box, set the turntable in the sand and that was it. We made sure it was set properly, “we thought” by giving it the Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon Test set at a volume level that would get the old people in the apartment downstairs angry. “Caution drugs may have been involved.” I’m not sure if any of this actually did any good at isolating the turntable but we thought it was cool.
I suspect it may have done wonders for resonance but introduced other issues that our teen ears would have been unlikely to notice, unless (oddly) we listened to bluegrass music. I was a teen in the 70s also. The setup you describe would do well at isolating the turntable and would have probably allowed you to crank up the volume further on a high-output amp without getting feedback.
However, I suspect you may have introduced some wow and flutter. If you did not take care to frequently check that the turntable is perfectly level, that would be a problem. I think the best practice in your case would have been to level the table perfectly, just as you would on any other surface, then set your counterweight and anti-skate. Re-check the level very often and re-do the setup whenever needed. I think the problem would be that the sand would allow the deck to settle irregularly between its feet, and so the leveling would be lost.
I was a deejay in the 80s and learned that bluegrass or sometimes piano music can help reveal wow and flutter issues. You want a passage with heavy notes played slowly, preferably by one instrument. Listen for distortions in the pitch of the notes being struck as they resonate, and you can hear this type of error. My go-to for this function is the opening bars of Eric Weisberg and Steve Mandel’s ‘Dueling Banjoes’, which can be found on the soundtrack from the movie ‘Deliverance’.
A sand pile "is" a wonderful way to eliminate vibrations
I did this with one of those IKEA cutting board and some isolation feet I got on line. I may have to revise and add another board. Thanks for the tip
Try putting correct weight range sorbothane blobs between them. That should do it👍🖖
Thank you so much for this idea!
Instead of a turntable I'm using it for my resin 3D printer. I live on an active volcano right next to a major road in a second story apartment. So many ruined 3D prints, the supports just don't stand a chance.
I'm also adding a couple layers of really big really soft mouse pads.
Ikea must sell most of their Butchers Blocks to Hi Fi enthusiasts than for Kitchen Chopping Board use ?!!, My Turntable (Avid Volvere mk4) is Wall Mounted on an "Apollo" wall shelf as is some other items including a Reel to Reel Tape Deck so can hold some weight!...The "Apollo" Wall shelves are either Single or Two Shelf units made of Steel Frame and Glass shelf with Spikes. Had them for many years now as floor in Hi Fi room is Wood Plank so a no go for Turntable to be on a floor mounted unit as even picked up me walking across room before buying these units (Four of them, 2 Single shelf, 2 Double shelf) Amplifier and matching Phono stage with their Power supply on wide AV Unit on floor as they are Huge and Heavy "Musical Fidelity KW Series" units... Great video, Thanks.
Very nicely done. The ball bearing addition is genius.
Nice Fluance Turntable! I have the Bamboo and the Walnut finish turntables! I really like them!
Cool!
The music hall mmf-7.3 accomplishes essentially the same thing "built in" to its design. Its a dual plinth turntable, and it sounds Excellent.
Hi nice video spring and rubber have resonant frequencies at which they don't work. At low frequencies say 4Hz the energy just passes through the spring/rubber but if you place a point contact such as a spike or the 2 contact points of a ball bearing the energy just rattles it and forms harmonics that the springs/rubber can absorb. This is why Linn and other high end turntables sound better on lightweight wobbly stands, Try putting your turntable on the box it came in. Remember that low frequency sound from the stylus that you cannot hear can clip the phono stage making distortion in the higher frequencies often this removal of low 1 or 2 or 3 or 4Hz interference stops this clipping and the whole sound is much better.
Nice job, although I think a dark mahogany stain would've made it look nicer and less plasticy.
Great video. I use the same board with drummer's gel pads between them. It would be interesting to compare this with what you have done
I do the same with good results
Great idea thanks I have those two Ikea boards and we never use them you think my wife is going to notice them in the living room
It would have interested me to know how you stained/lacquered/painted (finished) the cutting blocks. In any case they came out nice. All the best, Rob
Interior eggshell enamel stain blocking paint and primer in one
Keep it simple, MDF Board, layered with Cork sheet cut to size. Simple and inexpensive. No special tools. Paint mdf to required color. Add spikes, pucks whatever you desire. kiss is the best way! I even had the mdf cut at Home Depot for free. Cut the cork with a sharp knife, and assemble 30 minutes. Used 3 x 3/4 inch MDFB and 1/4 inch cork roll. Don't overthink it.
Funny thing; i just made a base out of a wood block and hockeypucks underneath, but i'm so convinced this is gonna work better that i just ordered 2 blocks from ikea and the spikes at amazon. Very cool vid, tnx 4 sharing! Btw, from the Netherlands.
Glad you’ll try it out
Saw that nice ruby red Pablo Jazz record on there initially & was hoping you'd spin it. Great taste!
Instead of the ball bearings, run a bead of silicone sealant in the grove. And remove the turntable lid when you’re playing it. It’s like a big resonance dish when it’s up.
Sorbothane in between or in place of the feet would probable isolate better.
Spring loaded pads under the player once leveled.
@@Skeptgeo3 Why?
Bamboo is not dense enough or? I see people marketing walnut or maple. I was going to buy material from Home Depot to make my own maple butcher board until a friend explained not all types of maple have the same density value. So, maple isn't maple isn't maple. Idk. Vibration is a .... BUZZ KILL thats for sure
@@robertm8518 yes I can attest to that
So do the same thump test without the isolation base to get a real comparison.
Note: I believe that cabinet is a Salamander Designs Oslo which I also have. I just did that test and was rather amazed at the result. When I placed the stylus on a record and just turned up the volume I started getting bad rumble, and that wasn't turned up all the way. I think it's just from the ambient noise since it's close to the furnace and it was running. So even if you isolate the turntable you can still be affected, but the isolation base would be worth the effort.
gotta love these DYI hi-fi racks and isolation system that beat the market price with more than 80%!
Have you tried it for speaker stands? Didn’t like the stain either! Would have looked better matching the turntable, black or a clear coat. Excellent job and nice material.
Thanks for the video. Ive just bought the 2 ikea butchers block and waiting for delivery of the feet and bearings. Looking forward to seeing any difference it will make.
Did it work ok?
Nice project. I would recommend removing the dust cover from your turntable when in use. It will catch sound waves generated by your speakers and feed them back into your turntable. It is worse when the cover is open but may do it to a lesser extent when closed. I don't use the hinges on mine at all. Simply set the cover on when not in use and set it off, out of harms way when you are listening.
I have a low production item named Hip Joints that work on the same principle as the balls in your project except that the balls operate in machined billet aluminum cups. consider playing around with balls made of different materials. McMaster Carr is a good source.
Well done!
Put the album jacket in there when listening.
It dampens vibration and displays what you're listening to
God damn this is awesome. I bought 3 Ikea Aptitlig, one each for my Pre/Mono amp combo, but iv'e had never thought of the bearings in use, and i will defiantly try it out. Thx for this! Cheers from Denmark
I'm making the first half of this base. If it isn't enough I know I can add the second half later. I ordered the cutting board today.
Living the dream
So is the science behind this the space between the boards creating a buffer to redirect the vibrations away? Very interesting approach.
Ingenious !
Although I cant understand why you would choose a stain which completely obstructed the grain of the wood.
It appeared as if the wood grain had a pretty cool design on the sides of the platforms.
Love the video.
Thanks. And in answer to your stain comment: The power of personal choice. I wanted the aesthetic to match my plinthe. Came out more chocolate though.
Great song, legendary LP. I have still have my original copy.
Great DIY plinth.
As someone else mentioned remove the lid when playing.
Agreed. Last week we were comparing digital streaming with vinyl and I forgot to close the lid. The lid acted as a bass amplifier/loop and chairs began to move across the floor until I closed the lid.
I think its awesome what you have done. 2 thumbs up !
two big blocks of cadbury chocolate! yumssssss
Another area many turntables have resonance is from the aire to an open dust cover (when its open) - can act just like a microphone.
Thanks! I just ordered everything to build my own!
Very nice, you've created a form of constrained layer damping.
However I do think that there are better options for the steel balls and the feet. I would also add a further layer of absorption between the upper cutting board and the turntable plinth. Specifically, Silicone Nitride Ceramic Bearing balls and ISO-BAND TPE feet. Then either Herbie's "Tenderfoot"s or the highly effective "Equipment Vibration Protectors" for an absorption layer of the Turntable's internally generated vibrations. There are also a number of accessories and tweaks that will take the Turntable's fidelity to an even higher level. The cartridge and turntable arm are subject to vibrations. Vibration absorbing materials between the cartridge and headshell are helpful and there are materials that can dampen any negative tonearm vibrations. Of course too much dampening is as bad as not enough, so there's no substitute for experimentation.
A "Platter Ground" can be efficacious. Plus, a system is a chain of components and any 'lesser' link in the system can reduce the apparent effectiveness of changes in the system. What a challenging but rewarding hobby we have found :-)
Fantastic content! I am very inspired to build this myself.
Go for it!
I used a paving slab for years and it was perfectly good but not very elegant. I swapped it to a 2 inch thick marble block and again it's perfectly fine
GREAT JOB!! I made my own isolation platform out of two granite cutting boards and used Herbie’s Audio Lab dB Neutralizer material in between!
Try foam Yoga blocks, they dampen quite well for a variety of audio applications
I'm sure someone's mentioned it, but you'll get some vibration while your cover is attached.
I confirm that. Take the cover off while playing and it should be even more neutral.
Very interesting, thanks! I currently use Aptltlig 3-layer cutting boards (like the ones you've used here) as a single-layer, so I think I'll get two more and make some dual-layer ones like you've done. With respect to mine, rather than "spikes/spike footers" between the bottom board and rack shelf, I'm placing mine on HRS Nimbus couplers (just the HRS rubber discs). These work very well to provide damping and the board sits _very stably_ on the rack shelf in this configuration. With respect to the ball bearings, I'll also try my Stillpoint Ultra Minis and see what they do, as they're currently sitting unused. Something else folks can try between the two Aptitlig boards, particularly for components that don't require the isolation that TTs do is, believe it or not, beeswax cloth. This will provide a "constrained layer" damping between the two boards. All you need is a couple 1" or so squares of beeswax cloth at each corner between the two Aptitlig boards. Once pressed together, they can be lifted and moved for placing as a single "unit". Cheers.
Most of the vibrations You're trying to isolate the turntable from are coming from the floor of Your room. You can hear footsteps through the TT, and if You plop down onto the couch, You could even make the tonearm skip. Having the turntable on a wall mounted shelf eliminates most of that sound without needing a special base.
I suspect it's more about floor construction rather than the audio setup. My TT does not react to any footsteps (or, of it does, it's below the preamp noise).
But then it does not react to tapping the plynth as badly as our host's TT, too. No exotic woods, just a single magnesium alloy casting.
100% agree but Not everyone wants to mount it on the wall. I do not want it on my wall but I agree with you that wall is best. I am just trying to keept footsteps from showing up in my music from a hard wood floor. I currently use a big foam Speaker isolation pad and it works perfectly but it is ugly. I am going to try this but with Rubber feet instead of spikes. I do not like spikes but if the rubber feet do not work I will get something like IsoAcoustics ISO-PUCK's but I have feeling I will not need to for my purposes.
Also Going to stain ti with India ink to make id black.
In his particular set up I agree. A TT sat over a floor mounted cabinet is never going to go well. There is the floor construction unknown to transmit footfall movement etc and the lightweight cabinet raising the TT 1m off this acting as a pendulum amplifying any floor vibrations. Like you mentioned, I mounted my TT on a plinth/shelf bolted directly to a brick wall which effectively adds tons of dampening mass for free. The TT then sits on sorbathene pads to isolate the arm as much as it can. AND it is all set in a recess effectively in an adjacent room (through an opening) which shields it from most of the airborne sound generated from the floor mounted speakers themselves. Although this looks a fun project there are waaaaay simpler ways to simply side step the issues most TT's are up against !
My TT is still mounted on a cheap wall stand bolted to an external wall and filled.
Above will be far better if he used 3 spikes which is what mine was converted to 32 years ago.
Wall stand had 4 spikes, converted to 3 spikes. Made a steel 8mm thick Y frame with 3 upturned spikes to sit on 3 spikes in wall frame. Y frame spikes go to an MDF board with steel pressings glied on underside.
Music then comes to life it starts and it stops rather than mushes in to another note, bass is there, its fluid, soundstaging pops out and you can now hang on to any individual instument. All for a few pence.
Not totally true. Your speakers will produce resonance through the cabinet he has the table on, regardless of the floor. Note he is on a concrete floor already. Solutions include moving the speakers further away from the cabinet or isolation in some manner like this. I took a slab of granite with thick felt pads under it. Then put the same felt pads on the turntable feet. Some tables resist resonance better than others, depending on the build quality. For instance, my Technics SL-1200 has few issues with resonance and feedback. My Dual 1019 proved to be a battle.
Thank you for the great idea. Similarly im suffering from shelving vibration. It was overlooked and I was very discouraged. I had never heard of a hardwood isolation base. Thank you for a good diy solution.
Thanks for this video, I have now ordered the parts 😀
superbe idee !! simple et efficace pleine de variations possibles
Awesome Idea! What size BBs did you use? Would rubber beads be a better option?
The link was in the notes. Size is 7/16. Try it with rubber ball bearings and let me know how it goes. That’s an interesting experiment.
Great video, I just completed mine and it works a treat 👍🏻
Try that tap test with an Acoustic reaseach EB-101.
Instead of steel ball bearings, would ceramic balls improve the isolation. I have substituted ceramic for steel balls in a Michell record deck together with other mods. In my humble opinion, this has made an improvement to the clarity of the sound, at the very least.
Have you checked the effectiveness of this contraption? I went at lengths to vibration isolate my TT only to discover that it added only 2dB to the maximum volume before acoustic feedback kicks in.
From what you have in your video as well as others mentioning in there comments too. The feet are not de-couplers they are in fact coupling to your glass and cabinet. Yes you will get some isolation from the mass but you will also get bad reflections from your cabinets. Stuff some furniture pads in those cabinets too guaranteed it will help. I only bring this up in order to help the situation. You need de-coupling feet under your turntable. Same concept goes for speakers couplers under granite slabs and then de-couplers attached to your speakers so they are floating from the isolation and not transmitting resonances to your wood. For a good reference Jim Smiths book "Get Better Sound" goes into this and his news letters as well. Hope this helps! IT looks good too !
Lots of comments on the this topic of decoupling. While pure decoupling would mean zero contact, decoupling also includes the domain of minimal contact. The feet are technically the layer of decoupling in sound vibration transmission in my version. Short of levitating, there is no way to completely decouple. Many people mention rubber and neoprene, and other variants of soft material, that is not decoupling either. That is absorption. I encourage people that don’t have a turntable base to try this project. It’s minimal cost and the results are truly impressive. If people prefer other methods, feel free to try something that works for you. Never intended this to be the project that schooled everyone on what is best. Cheers all.
@@Mixturerich Decoupling is a really hot topic right now. I dont think the comments here are meant as a negative. If you look at other videos posted here about it there are tons of comments. I think that is a good thing that a lot of us are experimenting with couple and de-couple. I think your table looks great and if it works for you thats all that matters. I have gone thru the exact same project and learned the hard way money wise what works best isolation wise. The only true floating de-coupler feet on the market that I have come across are the iso-acoustics Gaia feet. Give it a try they are true floating feet. I also switched out the bamboo since its acoustic resonance is very high compared to Butcher Block Acoustics solid maple with a much lower resonance.But still not as good as a granite slab that had the lowest resonance. You can pick some up at any lowes for under 40 bucks. In the end its just enjoyable to watch your video I wish I would have recorded mine.
Thanks for the comments :-)
I'd put silicone foam pads under the glass, be it a whold sheet, or 4" squares.
You could try the following in your current design. use a 3/4 or 1" wood drill to make some half inch deep counterbores. Then place foam (or hollow squash or handball) balls between the plates.
Did you try it with the alternative materials between the plates?
I like! My Pioneer PL-7 that's in my living room entertainment center is setting on a thick piece of foam and it sorta works for now. I plan to eventually build a platform on the wall next to it for better playing, but I like this base you built. I've saved your video for a future project.
Who makes your turn table? Nice job man.
Ok... I can see the difference in vibration, the question is can you tell the difference in the music? In mean in blind test, can you tell by listening to the music which one has the isolation base , which one does not ? Just curious.
Awesome idea!
Beautiful job with the staining. Cool platform too. I’ve got the same TT as in the platform in The Audio Beat. Thanks, man. I’ll probably try it out, cuz my TT needs isolation. I may also go with Isonoe feet too. ✌️🎶🔊
Nice! Decouple your tube Phono Amp and your done!
Dan, nice video. I do have a question about the cutting boards used, does the cutting boards have to be that thick or can they be thinner? How much thinner can they be and still be effective? I ask that due to limited height space I have above my turntable. Thanks.
Thicker means more mass. More mass is better.
Nice Idea!! What is the result when the cone feet are put upside down.
Try a little bit of thin rubber between the boards.
The Fluance RT-85/84 has 3 points adjustable isolation fleet and is a lot better than most TT out there. I would like to see the test with a lesser constructed TT. I had constructed the lower part but have not tried the idea of putting the ball bearings with another layer. It seems to be a very nifty idea. Thanks
I'm here looking for a solution for my RT85. I have hardwood floors and a raised foundation and I can't even walk around my room without hearing it through my speakers at moderately high volumes. Also bass heavy songs start a bass feedback loop and my whole room starts rumbling.
So what about the lid that is open? Does that not collect airwaves and transmit through the deck?
Hey @MixtureRich thanks for this video. I have a Mofi Ultradeck which has dimensions of 19.69" x 5.375" x 14.25" and that cutting board is 17 ¾x14 ¼ ". With that being said, the Ultradeck's feet are set in by at least 1.5". Maybe 2". Do you think that'll work?
I will be doing it, when Dire Straits is on I tend to get rumble. Can only go up to 6.5, need to go to 11.
I couldn't get the same cutting board. Found 2 at Home Goods that will work for $12 each
I've done the same except with three feet and three bearings. Great video but it does show a problem with my TV as that colour looks awful😊
So cool thank you! We’re did you find the feet and bearings ?
Have a look in the video description. Both of those items bought on Amazon.
Better use only three spikes/ feet than four...more stable against wobble
Great project. Gonna make this one!
For my clarification, you don’t need to glue the ball bearings? Would that affect it in any way if I were to glue them in place?
Don’t glue! Needs to be free moving
Need to use bearings that are either 11mm or 12mm instead of 7/16. Did you find 7/16 tight or loose in the groove? Just need to figure out which would work best. Thanks
Why did they ever stop suspension in a turntable??? My older Thorens sits on the 3 springs and it's like it's floating on air. Cool little project tho.
Thorens still build suspension turntables, check out the TD1600 and TD1601 which obviously give a nod to the TD160 which I have.
@@nocturnal1970 ,Sorry I was a little vague there. Yea I know some still build suspended turntables. It used to be all had springs, now it seems a majority of the affordable ones don't. My TD 126 has them. I can smack the counter mine sits on pretty hard or tap with hammer next to turntable and hear nothing thru the speaker.
Thank you for an excellent tip. Can I use two sheets of granite or Italian marble one inch thick ?
If yes should I used our ball bearings between like u did ?
Thanks again
These planks had the grooving for the ball bearings. If you can groove your material to behave the same, I don’t see why not.
Ikea should sell those made out of Granit 😍
Thank you so much! for this DIY. Your demonstration of the degree of noise damping is enough for me. the design including hard berrings between hard surfaces between the feet and the speaker or turntablel is duplicated (at great expense on my Borrensen speaker) by Michael the engineer.. Michael the engineer could have picked any other design but he picked this one. i know there is a lot of argument on the best way to isolate, biut is is encouraging the best designers use this onel
Thank you!
Why not get a suspended turntable like the Thorens I have?
Anyhow, use 3 adjustable feet instead of 4 as it cannot rock and is easier to level. I built 3 adjustable feet into my Thorens base which is as solid as a rock but doesn't rock. The Thorens platter and tonearm is suspended by 3 adjustable springs decoupling it from the motor and external vibrations. This is a superior setup without that bulky looking DIY setup.
Pretty slick
Wow, a long way from wrapping rubber bands around ashtrays.
I need to try this.
My Ikea is backordered on this model ....on Amazon they have the same dimensions....17x12 but it is only .7' thick....think this will support my vintage Hitachi Turntable??? Will be using everything else as I have already ordered....please help as I am getting ready to order. Thanks
There are no wrong answers. Go for it.
@@Mixturerich Thanks for the quick response! There actually is a wrong answer...the boards at half the thickness not being able to support my TT and crack in half? Do you think the thickness of .7 compared to 1.3 with the Ikea model can support this with the balls and spikes you recommended? Thanks again!
@@mccarthyd6603 Unless your TT weighs the same as an Abrams Tank, I think you'd be fine. Obviously thicker is better for mass dampening. But sometimes, you go with what you have.
@@Mixturerich Gotcha...will order...my TT weighs 19 lbs...hopefully both boards and the balls and spikes will support...going to be staring at it constantly like looking at my needle riding a warped record😳😳😳
Thanks again...great video👍
@@MixturerichGot the 2 boards from Amazon yesterday...and although only measuring in at 17 x12 x.7.....looks like it is going to work! Already noticing a major enhancement in sound and also have taken the dust cover off for the 1st time which is also reaping rewards sonically.... Thanks again and great video👍
Well done 👍
You want to dampen at the bottom of the plinth and draws energy from the table, take the feet off and put underneath one piece 3" of cellulose foam making sure it's against around the main bearing tight or get a squash ball and fill it with tungsten powder and Super Glue it to the plinth engulfing the bearing and then the foam, you can take the feet off and put them on a separate board for adjustment and only one board is needed. Would be worth your while getting a phoenix engineer speed controller and the Roadrunner best thing for belt turntables, better than stand-alone control units better than vpi stand-alone control unit DIY audio you can build the kit
Hi, Great article. I intend to do it, better I was locking for some video where I could find what you put in images and words; however one info lacks me: the size of the bearings. Are they measured by number, diameter or perimeter? Another question in wich site can I order the bearings because in my village , certainly I will not find them. Thank you for your support.
Curious why you did’t do a before and after ikea blocks of the vibration.
Because it's all the same at before
I’ve heard that spikes don’t decouple.
Rubber feet does.
Great idea!! But I have to ask if I was to use 3 cutting boards or even more, do you think it could only get better/ Thanks for this video!!
Yes, the more you isolate the better it is but it is like diminishing returnes(becomes less and less effective).Don1t forget there are other factors,like how good is the rest of the system is,is it worth it etc.
The project is very nice. The choice of poo brown color stain...not so much.
Did you prepare the surface of the bamboo before staining? What kind of stain did you use? Did you seal it afterward?
Light sanding. Don’t remember stain. No sealing.
Thank you! Do you remember if it was oil or water based?@@Mixturerich
Spiked feet don't decouple, they couple.
what size are bearings? what if you add one another plate?
Love the table
Spikes dont decouple, they ground. They are used to add the mass of the surface they are placed onto, eg. (concrete floor) to speaker stands to make the stands heavier than the speakers.
If you have a cabinet or floating floor, its usually best to decouple using sorbothane so the live sound of the surface doesnt travel through.
You made great stands for speakers on a concrete floor but if it works and youre happy, power to you man.
I am not sure that spikes would ground/couple anything when on a hard surface like glass. The vibrations would have to, in essence, travel up through a point source. If he used a rubber foot or pad between the two boards I think it would work even better as a frequency that could cross the point source boundary would not likely also be able to travel through the rubber. But that’s just my 2 cents.
How is it an isolation base if you use spikes? Spikes cannot isolate.
Crazy thing... as far as I know, this Newtonian steel ball pendulum swings "forever", at least for quite a long time. So much for absorbing energy with steel balls and other sonorous materials. But it definitely looks “interesting” ;-)
People who are fitter in natural sciences would probably take more proper measures to absorb structure-borne noise, such as quartz sand, felt wool, etc. and combine them. Sheer mass such as concrete or marble bases would also help.
Pick up a tuning fork (which is also made of steel and not felt of course...steel has excellent vibration properties, uc?) and test the differences. Let it swing - or even not.
To experiment with lower frequencies and also stimulate your base with bass, buy a cheap transducer, also called a "bass shaker," and place it near your base.
A decoupled base on a steel base would perhaps work if this frame were a standing triangle and a vibration ran up two legs and then canceled out through superposition at the tip.
In the case of the upper cutting board, it hangs between the further away supports (balls) ideally free for swinging like a bridge. All in all, what's the gain?
Another thing, the soundwaves in the room will hit the turntable anyway, with or without an absorbing base. This, if its really absorbing, only helps against the structure-borne noise mentioned above, with this non-rigid storage on wheels, the turntable becomes even more active again.
is there a vid on a turntable player playing with isolations and without?
will these ball bearings work? www.amazon.ca/uxcell-Bearing-Balls-Stainless-Precision/dp/B07YKRC138/ref=sr_1_26?crid=37ZUWRSJFPHYQ&keywords=304%2B440%2BChrome%2BSteel%2BBearing%2BBalls&qid=1648657011&s=industrial&sprefix=304%2B440%2Bchrome%2Bsteel%2Bbearing%2Bballs%2B%2Cindustrial%2C222&sr=1-26&th=1