Even though I love modern stuff, the classics I admire for their honest simplicity and ease of rebuilding, maintenance, and immense modifying potential.
Yeah, I most definitely agree and second that. As a Challenger SRT8 owner, I still love the old school Mopar muscle and theres nothing like the sound of a hot 440 or 426 hemi 💪🏼😎
Oh the joys of rust repair. Although it's not the most fun aspect of restoration there is a certain satisfaction when your done. I installed 65 full coupe quarters on my 64 convertible. When done in bare metal the replacement was none detectable my most satisfying repair to date took a lot of planning. You should consider hydroboost power assist for the breaks. I did mine for under $150 with a used swap meet booster. 150mph to 0 is much better now.
Watching this helped me out a lot. Just picked up a ‘73 Charger resto project that’s going to need all the floor pans replaced. Makes me feel abit more comfortable with the job.
I had a 74 Plymouth Duster with a 225 slant 6 with a 3-on the tree. It was good and straight except when I opened the trunk. Rusted out to the frame and like yours it had a hole in the gas tank. I ran out of money and had to sell her!! 😢😢
I really want to see you finish this car. I actually like some of the styling changes that Dodge made to the Challenger in it's first iteration as I like it in it's current styling. The sales dropped off in '72 through the end of production in '74 so you see fewer of them surviving. Nice work!
Good tasks so far. I suggest use as much as you can from the new sheet metals and cut out as much as you can from the rusted. Check prior welding if the new are electrically or chemicaly e-coated. When you can wipe the black coat off with thinner its cheap stuff and needs re-sealing. Seamsealer is a valuable option after welding.
Great video Mr. McCool. Classic Industries is definitely a great place to get parts from. I am currently working on restoring my first car a 1973 Petty Blue Plymouth Duster. I had to replace the same floorboard areas you are and my spare tire area. Got all the stuff from Classic Industries. Looking forward to seeing your next video.
Im restoring the same car as you, Challenger 1973 with 440 engine, Im glad we are doing the same project in the same time, do your best, videos looks great!
Hell yes bud ! Hang tough and good things come your way ! Classic industries has amazing inventory. The main thing is to get out there and just do something .and before you know it. You're done.
Well worth the wait, Dylan! I got a lot of useful info about body panel replacement in this video, and it should come in handy if I ever decide to dive into that sort of work on either of my project vehicles that need it. Side note, don't you love it when things like shifter knobs get all the focus while the work you're doing in the background is all fuzzy? I don't know how many times I've been editing video days or weeks after I finish working on something, only to find out that the camera was focused on an oil line or sensor wire instead of the stuff I was actually working on. Thanks for providing great content. I'll look forward to the next one in this series.
Great job. In the U.S. it is easier to restore these old cars thanks to tons and tons spare parts either new or used. In Europe it spend a lot of time and money to get right spareparts for restoration.
I commend you for doing this! Your doing what almost all of us here wish we could do. That satisfaction you will get when your done will be intoxicating! Keep up the great work brother.
Love your work Dylan, that Challenger deserves way better than where it was. Nice kit from Classic Industries, hope the Challenger's challenges work out well :)
Your enthusiasm for this project is refreshing...none of this stiff "by-the-numbers" jazz. But what is this idea of yours - that you'll only open 1 box at a time? Why, that makes perfect sense - fewer parts getting lost or damaged, & a cleaner shop floor. Brilliant! And extra videos can't hurt :) Shout out to everyone supporting this build.
I agree, this comment is way after the fact, but I don't think he did any kind of rust prevention or curing, I believe it will be a beater for the rest of its life. I own a mopar, so I know, if you don't kill it when you have the chance, you won't have a car before long.
Good work on the plug welding. Front pans are definitely a pain to get right. I use a tough sealer around the seams to make it air tight. Keeps the exhaust fumes out of the inside. I have found that "Fuze It" by liquid nails works great and it sticks to almost any surface. Good luck with the build.
Man, I have been watching your videos in a row. You are impressive. I can't only say that you have excellent knowledge and experience, but you have literally reconstructed a 1972 muscle car. Impressive work dude, although I wonder when did you learn all this because you look young to have all that knowledge and experience. Great project bro
My first car was a 72 Challenger 318 with 2 Barrel Carb. In 1978 I still have the Vin number and would love to know if someone still has it. Regret every letting it go
Watching this makes me really miss my 74 318 red with black vinial top!! 3 speed stick on the floor! Here's a little tip, use ( por 15 ). Just spray it over any rust, it sucks the moisture out of the rust and dries hard as concrete!!! Just review as many youtube application videos on the por-15. I would even apply it on the interior side of the roof, and inside areas of chrome, apply it any where you don't want rust to form! Good luck!! Randy Toledo Ohio.
Very happy to see an update. Thought something may have happened to you. See your pals Thunderhead and Junkyard Digs this week. Merry Christmas to you and yours Dylan!!
You didn't get rid of the surface rust off of the structural areas underneath the floor which means you won't have a very good weld. You could have at wire wheeled it.
Another great and informative video Dylan ,i am amazed at how many parts you can obtain through the likes of classic industries,and the quality.make sure you use a good rust converter on the rails etc .This is turning into a wonderful rebuild .God bless
I can do my A-body up to make it very usable, practical and reliable. For perspective, I always keep in my mind that unless I spend waaaaaay too much money, the GT350 I bought for my daughter will handily hand my very decently modified A-body it's proverbial ass with no problem. But for a nostalgic car that I can rely on, enjoy, not have a ton of money in, haul my dog in and performs way beyond what vintage Chrysler (FCA is an Italian company, Mopar has been a foreign-owned brand since 1997) ever suspected. Enjoy the episodes & progress
As everyone has said, heres alittle tip, once holes are drilled for plug welding and also what you welding to (little lip) i would use weld thru primer. Clean up the shipping paint by holes size of 50cent piece and hit the holes to bare metal...and your good to go!!! How i do it at work..... Awesome by the way, i restored the body on top to bottom on a 70 challenger....will send some pics via email......oh dont forget to seam seal the weld joints, after you hit them with grinding disk on bottom sure way to seal it up....... Rock on......Mj
Once you clean out the surface rust what do you like to put on the metal to prevent continued rust? Also, with the Hemi engine is it difficult to find a wiring harnest and put it in? Are he fuel lines coming to the engine the same on a carburetor engine? I have so many questions on this because I think my next build will have a powerful updated engine instead of an older engine. I am excited to see your progress.
All of the restoration stuff on my 66 Barracuda came from Classic Industries. Thank you Classic Industries! They are still limited on the 1st Gen Barracuda stuff, so be prepared to do some original parts fixing, if you have one of those.
Wow cool so it looks like your going to put the 5.7 in it, and should go pretty good considering the weight of the E bodies. Although it's too bad that you couldn't have picked up a 6.1 for it, and is a great platform to build off of. Had a 74 318 car years ago, and purchased it from the original owner. It was in great shape other than some surface rust in the rear quarters. Cool well good luck with the rest of it, and keep rocking them Mopars 👍🏼
Glad to see you building this cool old car. 5.7 hemi should be a good driver when finished. (Push rod engine is king) props to Mopar and GM for keeping it alive) Had you thought about electric steering? A lot of the new Mopars have it, I'm not a huge fan but they do steer well....Or maybe just a quick ratio box? For me the quick steering is such a great improvement it's nessisary. Keep up the hard work I can appreciate how much $, time and energy this takes, as I'm currently doing a build on a 1970 chevy c20.
If I had to guess I would say that the driver's side floor pans rotted out because that is where the exhaust ran. The main exhaust pipe was on the driver side of the car directly under the rotted floor pans. I have seen more than a few early to mid 70's Mopars with exactly the same issue. The heat from the exhaust causes the metal of the floor to corrode faster when it gets wet.
One tip: When you use a cut-off wheel, cover or remove the stuff around what you are cutting as sparks could do some real damage that you won't notice until later. Those door panels and dash could get damaged.
I’ll be interested to see how the fuel filler tube works. Installed a new one from Classic Industries on my ‘71 while doing a tank replacement and then found that the original cap wouldn’t fit due to a misformed lip at the end of the tube.
I stock pile parts in the winter. And work on my project once it gets warm enough. Hard to work during the Winter here when the temperature is sub-zero in the morning. Unless you have a heated shop. My machine shed is huge so I have plenty of room. But heating it is another story. Lol
Man oh man, this project is a monumental undertaking. My hats off to your dedication and hard work. 🎩 This will be one helluva restoration for sure. Not to mention the hemi engine swap.
I have been following this since the start and I must say that I am envoys of your resources to get to where you are now. Keep up the good work and I will follow your progress with a bit of drool.
I always wonder when guys replace rusty floor pans, why they cut up the new floor pan. I know purists want to leave as much O.G. material in the car, but its a floor pan, which most will weld in, paint everything in rust repelling primer, seal, then cover with carpet. Unless you are doing a concourse car, more new floor is better, IMO. I have read that some of those pans are made slightly different just because of trademark issues. Glad you are restoring this one so deep. I know this has already been finished, but I am new here and wanted to see it done myself.
Fun to watch your build come together. I’m curious if you will be removing surface rust/wire brush + rust paint or whatever on the underside, of parts still solid but having surface rust. Not a fun job but worth it down the road. Hope it will be nice & solid clean underneath as well as looking great on the outside & interior once all done. No doubt you’ll have this thing rumbling down the road and turning heads.
hey Dylan....ya might not wanna finish weld the tunnel, since you are changing drivetrain...4 spds are bigger than the 3 spds......ask me how i know... ; )
I love the video! I used classic industry for almost my whole resto on my RoadRunner and they are great but a lot of my OER parts were sub par. Hopefully they have gotten better in the past year.
4 месяца назад
It's real nice to see old classic cars that was left to die that came back from the dead..
Are you treating the frame under the pan with paint or anything. I’d like to know more about the process. I have the same on my 69 bee that I need to do.
So... actual question here. How much of a car can you cut out and replace while still being allowed to register it with its original VIN? Seems like just about everything has reproduction bits that you could use to restore a shell. Is the limit something like the A / C pillars? Or the frame-rails?
I'm still curious as to where you did find this challenger. I know it was in the woods but was it on a property, but perhaps you did just found it in the woods
As one of the other guys asked (or commented on)....did you apply any rust-retardant to the frame rails under the driver's side floor replacement panel?
You may ave to go back in and cut the floor hump out again if for some reason you cant get the new Hemi to work behind that old four speed, As you most of the show's like Gas Monk y use the whole newer Hemi engine and trans had to cut out the floor board.and make a new cross member and floor hump.
@@DylanMcCoolVideo well that's good is the crank shaft on the Hemi drilled out for het😇end of the floor speed to slide into the bushing in the back of the crank shaft
After the rusted floor pan is cut out, and the new panels are welded in, may I suggest you get some POR 15 paint and paint the new panels so they Don't Rust again. Just make sure you don't get any of that POR stuff on you, because once it is on you, it will NOT ever come off.
Dylan you might want to cover all your glass with cardboard or something before grinding. You will end up with grinding splatter in the glass. Either way if any of your glass is damaged I'm part of the Glass Polish franchise. We can repair scratches and grinding splatter
get a helper maybe dylan,an keep the mmopar videos coming,i watch this late at nite as i dont sleep much,i may miss something...good job on everything. a king word makes the heart glad..and a merry heart does good like a medicine..
Even though I love modern stuff, the classics I admire for their honest simplicity and ease of rebuilding, maintenance, and immense modifying potential.
Alex Paumen what he said
Alex Paumen this and Ronald Finger’s Pontiac Fiero rebuilds are the most entertaining rebuild series on RUclips.
Yeah, I most definitely agree and second that. As a Challenger SRT8 owner, I still love the old school Mopar muscle and theres nothing like the sound of a hot 440 or 426 hemi
💪🏼😎
Oh the joys of rust repair. Although it's not the most fun aspect of restoration there is a certain satisfaction when your done. I installed 65 full coupe quarters on my 64 convertible. When done in bare metal the replacement was none detectable my most satisfying repair to date took a lot of planning. You should consider hydroboost power assist for the breaks. I did mine for under $150 with a used swap meet booster. 150mph to 0 is much better now.
0:40 -- does anyone else find that Richard Petty Dodge truck to be a *really* cool idea? Love it!!
Watching this helped me out a lot. Just picked up a ‘73 Charger resto project that’s going to need all the floor pans replaced. Makes me feel abit more comfortable with the job.
Put some rust preventative in supports under the pan before you zues it in.... Good job bro
Yes, definatley.
@@rickallen6378 zeus it in lol,vice grip garage
I had a 74 Plymouth Duster with a 225 slant 6 with a 3-on the tree. It was good and straight except when I opened the trunk. Rusted out to the frame and like yours it had a hole in the gas tank. I ran out of money and had to sell her!! 😢😢
A son that your Mum and Dad must be extremely proud of. A genuinly fabulous young man.
I really want to see you finish this car. I actually like some of the styling changes that Dodge made to the Challenger in it's first iteration as I like it in it's current styling. The sales dropped off in '72 through the end of production in '74 so you see fewer of them surviving. Nice work!
Good tasks so far. I suggest use as much as you can from the new
sheet metals and cut out as much as you can from the rusted.
Check prior welding if the new are electrically or chemicaly e-coated.
When you can wipe the black coat off with thinner its cheap stuff
and needs re-sealing. Seamsealer is a valuable option after welding.
Great video Mr. McCool. Classic Industries is definitely a great place to get parts from. I am currently working on restoring my first car a 1973 Petty Blue Plymouth Duster. I had to replace the same floorboard areas you are and my spare tire area. Got all the stuff from Classic Industries. Looking forward to seeing your next video.
Im restoring the same car as you, Challenger 1973 with 440 engine, Im glad we are doing the same project in the same time, do your best, videos looks great!
Love Classic Industries. Use to look at those books for hours.
Thank you so much for mentioning Classic Industries, just saved me the headaches of trying to find parts for a 1969 plymouth valiant.
i had a 1973 with a 318 and a 1974 with a 340 , I loved those cars nice rescue and restore .
Great job love how you take these old abandoned mopars and make them nice again
You should spray with some rust protection on everything you can reach. Good luck
5.
I was just thinking the same thing, some weld through primer at least. It's eventually going to rust under those new panels
The bit under & above the pedals looks pretty rusty, I'm curious as to why you didn't cut that out and replace it too?
00966739908674
Hell yes bud !
Hang tough and good things come your way !
Classic industries has amazing inventory.
The main thing is to get out there and just do something .and before you know it. You're done.
Well worth the wait, Dylan! I got a lot of useful info about body panel replacement in this video, and it should come in handy if I ever decide to dive into that sort of work on either of my project vehicles that need it. Side note, don't you love it when things like shifter knobs get all the focus while the work you're doing in the background is all fuzzy? I don't know how many times I've been editing video days or weeks after I finish working on something, only to find out that the camera was focused on an oil line or sensor wire instead of the stuff I was actually working on. Thanks for providing great content. I'll look forward to the next one in this series.
Great build. You should get yourself an auto darkening helmet, makes welding so much nicer.
And make sure you get a good one!...the HFT ones don't darken fast enough for spot welding, I know from experience.
Great job. In the U.S. it is easier to restore these old cars thanks to tons and tons spare parts either new or used. In Europe it spend a lot of time and money to get right spareparts for restoration.
Dylan, you got hooked up! Really digging this project. Cheers.
Wish I was still young enough to do that stuff, it's very satisfying work
I can't wait to see what this Challenger looks like when she's done.
Chris Duitsman Right?! i wonder what his next project will be 🤔
I commend you for doing this! Your doing what almost all of us here wish we could do. That satisfaction you will get when your done will be intoxicating! Keep up the great work brother.
I watch junkyard digs everyday. I'm so glad you showed up on his show one day so I figured out to follow you also. Good job
Love your work Dylan, that Challenger deserves way better than where it was. Nice kit from Classic Industries, hope the Challenger's challenges work out well :)
Your enthusiasm for this project is refreshing...none of this stiff "by-the-numbers" jazz. But what is this idea of yours - that you'll only open 1 box at a time? Why, that makes perfect sense - fewer parts getting lost or damaged, & a cleaner shop floor. Brilliant!
And extra videos can't hurt :) Shout out to everyone supporting this build.
You need a leather jacket and you'd be a straight up 50's greaser
You're not the only one who caught that vibe.
@@uzivatel56 what do you want? A cookie?
@@lclnbm Yes please.
@@lclnbm Can I have a chocolate cookie please?😆
@@ryanweintraub9448 good for you Scooby
I would have sand blasted and painted all that rust before putting the floor in.
I dunno why the car wasn't stripped down and sand blasted first. Kind of half-ass fix.
Plate C
@@platec4798 There's a lot things that are that way.
I agree, this comment is way after the fact, but I don't think he did any kind of rust prevention or curing, I believe it will be a beater for the rest of its life. I own a mopar, so I know, if you don't kill it when you have the chance, you won't have a car before long.
Hope you put something on the surface rust on the parts under the new panels, keep up the good work
Did you clean all of the rust off of the subframe before you put the new sheet metal in? ~( 'w')/
00966739908674
What
I would have.
But isn't he the expert?
Good work on the plug welding. Front pans are definitely a pain to get right. I use a tough sealer around the seams to make it air tight. Keeps the exhaust fumes out of the inside. I have found that "Fuze It" by liquid nails works great and it sticks to almost any surface. Good luck with the build.
Man, I have been watching your videos in a row. You are impressive. I can't only say that you have excellent knowledge and experience, but you have literally reconstructed a 1972 muscle car. Impressive work dude, although I wonder when did you learn all this because you look young to have all that knowledge and experience. Great project bro
Fantastic to see a restoration of such a nice car :) Thank you Dylan!
Maaaan you dont know how i was waiting for this episode its a looong time
same!!
Me to
Same, I was getting concerned.
My first car was a 72 Challenger 318 with 2 Barrel Carb. In 1978
I still have the Vin number and would love to know if someone still has it.
Regret every letting it go
Watching this makes me really miss my 74 318 red with black vinial top!! 3 speed stick on the floor!
Here's a little tip, use ( por 15 ). Just spray it over any rust, it sucks the moisture out of the rust and dries hard as concrete!!! Just review as many youtube application videos on the por-15. I would even apply it on the interior side of the roof, and inside areas of chrome, apply it any where you don't want rust to form!
Good luck!! Randy Toledo Ohio.
This project is awesome. I really can't wait to see everything come together.
Very happy to see an update. Thought something may have happened to you. See your pals Thunderhead and Junkyard Digs this week. Merry Christmas to you and yours Dylan!!
I was just thinking today...where had Dylan been!
You didn't get rid of the surface rust off of the structural areas underneath the floor which means
you won't have a very good weld.
You could have at wire wheeled it.
Nice work on the video Dylan. Thank you to Classic industries for offering nice restoration parts.
Another great and informative video Dylan ,i am amazed at how many parts you can obtain through the likes of classic industries,and the quality.make sure you use a good rust converter on the rails etc .This is turning into a wonderful rebuild .God bless
I can do my A-body up to make it very usable, practical and reliable. For perspective, I always keep in my mind that unless I spend waaaaaay too much money, the GT350 I bought for my daughter will handily hand my very decently modified A-body it's proverbial ass with no problem. But for a nostalgic car that I can rely on, enjoy, not have a ton of money in, haul my dog in and performs way beyond what vintage Chrysler (FCA is an Italian company, Mopar has been a foreign-owned brand since 1997) ever suspected. Enjoy the episodes & progress
I need to see the last part of challenger.I only got to see part 7
As everyone has said, heres alittle tip, once holes are drilled for plug welding and also what you welding to (little lip) i would use weld thru primer. Clean up the shipping paint by holes size of 50cent piece and hit the holes to bare metal...and your good to go!!! How i do it at work..... Awesome by the way, i restored the body on top to bottom on a 70 challenger....will send some pics via email......oh dont forget to seam seal the weld joints, after you hit them with grinding disk on bottom sure way to seal it up....... Rock on......Mj
Once you clean out the surface rust what do you like to put on the metal to prevent continued rust? Also, with the Hemi engine is it difficult to find a wiring harnest and put it in? Are he fuel lines coming to the engine the same on a carburetor engine? I have so many questions on this because I think my next build will have a powerful updated engine instead of an older engine. I am excited to see your progress.
All of the restoration stuff on my 66 Barracuda came from Classic Industries. Thank you Classic Industries! They are still limited on the 1st Gen Barracuda stuff, so be prepared to do some original parts fixing, if you have one of those.
🔥 super happy when you post, great host, great project. Awesome build!
Looks like it's coming along nicely. looking forward to the finish!
Hey Dylan, what are you planning to do to prevent all the rusty spots from rusting further in the future? Have you planned a video for that?
Wow cool so it looks like your going to put the 5.7 in it, and should go pretty good considering the weight of the E bodies. Although it's too bad that you couldn't have picked up a 6.1 for it, and is a great platform to build off of. Had a 74 318 car years ago, and purchased it from the original owner. It was in great shape other than some surface rust in the rear quarters. Cool well good luck with the rest of it, and keep rocking them Mopars 👍🏼
Glad to see you building this cool old car. 5.7 hemi should be a good driver when finished. (Push rod engine is king) props to Mopar and GM for keeping it alive) Had you thought about electric steering? A lot of the new Mopars have it, I'm not a huge fan but they do steer well....Or maybe just a quick ratio box? For me the quick steering is such a great improvement it's nessisary. Keep up the hard work I can appreciate how much $, time and energy this takes, as I'm currently doing a build on a 1970 chevy c20.
If I had to guess I would say that the driver's side floor pans rotted out because that is where the exhaust ran. The main exhaust pipe was on the driver side of the car directly under the rotted floor pans. I have seen more than a few early to mid 70's Mopars with exactly the same issue. The heat from the exhaust causes the metal of the floor to corrode faster when it gets wet.
One tip: When you use a cut-off wheel, cover or remove the stuff around what you are cutting as sparks could do some real damage that you won't notice until later. Those door panels and dash could get damaged.
He has brand new panels for it
I’ll be interested to see how the fuel filler tube works. Installed a new one from Classic Industries on my ‘71 while doing a tank replacement and then found that the original cap wouldn’t fit due to a misformed lip at the end of the tube.
Lived in Marion, Iowa as boy. Nice to visit you guys and enjoy your wrenching projects. Are you anywhere near Cedar Rapids?
I stock pile parts in the winter. And work on my project once it gets warm enough. Hard to work during the Winter here when the temperature is sub-zero in the morning. Unless you have a heated shop. My machine shed is huge so I have plenty of room. But heating it is another story. Lol
Man oh man, this project is a monumental undertaking. My hats off to your dedication and hard work. 🎩 This will be one helluva restoration for sure. Not to mention the hemi engine swap.
Being someone who wants to learn how to fix cars, I love watching these videos and learning
This reminds me of my 74' Challenger, it was full of rust and bondo and had an RV 440 and headers. No mufflers. Yours is much nicer.
I have been following this since the start and I must say that I am envoys of your resources to get to where you are now.
Keep up the good work and I will follow your progress with a bit of drool.
where did you get the car from and how much did it cost?
It’s cool your channel is being blessed like that, if you weren’t the dude you are it wouldn’t be happening 👍🏼. Gods good
Will that wilwood work if I want use it on my 1975 J10? It has a brake booster and a master cylinder.
Oh Dylan, you and the CO Welding machine with a carbon dioxide bottle welds well. Metal may be replaced where necessary. If the corrosion is large.
Lot of goodies in this one. That trunk pan will be an undertaking for sure. Good seeing your videos out again.
Расскажи пожалуйста про голубой Додже пикап на 0:45. Что за модель и год?
Opening car parts is better than christmas😂
justen smith Unless the car parts are for Christmas .. ayyye 😂😂😂
Great video Dylan!,, the Challanger is coming along nicely,,, floor pan looks awesome,,, and I love where you went engine wise,,, cool!,,,
Dylan great job on the floor pan! I am really looking forward to see you put this Challenger back on the road!
que camioneta es la que aparece en 0:30 sera una ford c10 1970 ?
How did you keep the drill from walking on all those holes?
You and the guys from Roadkill are the reason I got into cars. I hope we can meet on power tour one day.
I always wonder when guys replace rusty floor pans, why they cut up the new floor pan. I know purists want to leave as much O.G. material in the car, but its a floor pan, which most will weld in, paint everything in rust repelling primer, seal, then cover with carpet. Unless you are doing a concourse car, more new floor is better, IMO. I have read that some of those pans are made slightly different just because of trademark issues. Glad you are restoring this one so deep. I know this has already been finished, but I am new here and wanted to see it done myself.
Love Classic Industries. I've bought a few things from them and they've been good to me so far.
Fun to watch your build come together. I’m curious if you will be removing surface rust/wire brush + rust paint or whatever on the underside, of parts still solid but having surface rust. Not a fun job but worth it down the road. Hope it will be nice & solid clean underneath as well as looking great on the outside & interior once all done. No doubt you’ll have this thing rumbling down the road and turning heads.
PS I think you should keep the Mudflaps either buy new or fix those but definitely a must to keep on the car I think anyway
Are there any videos of the car with the engine in it?
Missed you! Glad to see you're back! Merry Christmas!
hey Dylan....ya might not wanna finish weld the tunnel, since you are changing drivetrain...4 spds are bigger than the 3 spds......ask me how i know... ; )
I love those CI catalogs too!
I love the video! I used classic industry for almost my whole resto on my RoadRunner and they are great but a lot of my OER parts were sub par. Hopefully they have gotten better in the past year.
It's real nice to see old classic cars that was left to die that came back from the dead..
Got me a 67 satellite working on it now that I got time love mopar love your videos keep them coming
Are you treating the frame under the pan with paint or anything. I’d like to know more about the process. I have the same on my 69 bee that I need to do.
Your doing a great job mate
I've done the same with ford Cortina s here in the uk
Awesome build!
Was the metal gauge the same as factory?
I am working on a 1966 GTO, sadly I dont see they have any products for my car...
So... actual question here. How much of a car can you cut out and replace while still being allowed to register it with its original VIN?
Seems like just about everything has reproduction bits that you could use to restore a shell.
Is the limit something like the A / C pillars? Or the frame-rails?
I'm still curious as to where you did find this challenger. I know it was in the woods but was it on a property, but perhaps you did just found it in the woods
6:17 your camera was mostly looking at your knob... that's a bit weird innit?
That's why for static shots you spend the 30 seconds to take auto focus off and manually focus on the main area you'll be filming.
There was a bit of space between this and the last video.
However, it's still a lot quicker than 35 years!
As one of the other guys asked (or commented on)....did you apply any rust-retardant to the frame rails under the driver's side floor replacement panel?
You may ave to go back in and cut the floor hump out again if for some reason you cant get the new Hemi to work behind that old four speed, As you most of the show's like Gas Monk y use the whole newer Hemi engine and trans had to cut out the floor board.and make a new cross member and floor hump.
Check out the last video I posted where I talk about the Hemi. They use the same bell housing bolt pattern as a small block Chrysler.
@@DylanMcCoolVideo well that's good is the crank shaft on the Hemi drilled out for het😇end of the floor speed to slide into the bushing in the back of the crank shaft
After the rusted floor pan is cut out, and the new panels are welded in, may I suggest you get some POR 15 paint and paint the new panels so they Don't Rust again. Just make sure you don't get any of that POR stuff on you, because once it is on you, it will NOT ever come off.
Thumbs up from Brazil! I really enjoy the work that you doing on this car. I have a project either. It's a Chevrolet Opala SS.
Why didn't you remove the door sill covers to remove the rest of the old carpet?
I have a 1974 Challenger.. looking good!
Dylan you might want to cover all your glass with cardboard or something before grinding. You will end up with grinding splatter in the glass. Either way if any of your glass is damaged I'm part of the Glass Polish franchise. We can repair scratches and grinding splatter
get a helper maybe dylan,an keep the mmopar videos coming,i watch this late at nite as i dont sleep much,i may miss something...good job on everything. a king word makes the heart glad..and a merry heart does good like a medicine..