So what do you guys think I should do? Use some of your ides here and make the shelf work or should I take the shelf down and cut it in half and make it into a 2 level cart with wheels that I can move around?
like yousmellfunnytoo said use lag bolts there meant to hold more weight some legs on the front would help as well you could make a desk space under it but replacing all the hardware you have securing it to the wall with lag screws/bolts should fix your issue
You want to use lag bolts to secure it to the wall studs not screws. With your screws being 2-1/2 inches by the time you go threw the 2x4 and then the dry wall your lucky if there is a 1/2inch of screw in the actual stud.
Take a small trim nail and tap it in every inch and you will find a stud. I've had stuff finders that were all jacked up. Trim nail works the best at finding them!
@noxxi knox Screws are highest in tensile strength which is weight in the pulling direction.. Hense the threads.. All electrical boxes use screws for tensile strength kapiche? Screws are less ideal for shear strength as they are brittle, nails are almost exclusively used in hangers etc. ( sheer load applications) Lag bolts are not the ideal fastner in this sitituion a 3 1/4 inch deck screw or construction screw is more then adequate and would be superior to lag bolt, because it does not comprise wood members.
@noxxi knox Hi my point with the electrical boxes is the those little screws when fully tightened have over 1000lbs tensile strength. Although not load intensive if a wire is connected to a set screw with 1000lbs tensile strength its probably not going to wiggle loose. That being said 1000lbs tensile strength basically means that the threads on that little screw is taking 1000lbs of force. You are over thinking the deck screws having a weak thread. Even when you remove screws from a 2x4 with a crowbar the screw threads do not fail. What fails is the wood 2x4 and thats why it gets so smashed up. We are talking just a regular Deck or Construction screw 3' length. That also being said, do an experiment put a 3" screw in a ceiling joist tie a wire around it and hang some weight.. I know for a fact its gonna take 80lbs of force at least.
@noxxi knox Hey its a sign of intelligence to take things like that slow and fully ponder the situation. The issue he has is simply, the ledger board screws he used were 2 1/2 inches so with the ledger board and assuming 1/2 or 5/8 drywall he would only have 1/2" penetration. The drywall plus ledger board is at least 2" so he needs a minimum over a 3" screw. A screw needs a certain thread count contact to be effective. When you are screwing into wooden members you want at least 1 1/2" penetration for maximum structural purposes. ( meaning anymore than an 1'1/2 penetration is over kill and not gonna do anything except for maybe weaken structural members but thats a different matter)
@noxxi knox Haha yes, carpenter by trade. Had the pleasure of working under my grandfather so have a kinda have a 2 world perspective on things. Funny story I built some support brackets out of 2x4s and plywood. They were to support a 10,000 lb I-beam that was getting dropped in the house. Anyway I build these brackets with 1/2 plywood and 2x material (sheeted both sides think 2x4 L with plywood). Anyway the beam slipped on one of the brackets and sheared it right in half! However the point in which it sheared the 2x4 bracket was exactly the point where both fasteners would meet each other. I didn't changed the nails in my gun, and because I used 3" nails instead of 2 1/4" nails the nails basically drove a wedge through the 2x timber where they would meet on either side. Nailed with 8" pattern
Yeah exactly! I kinda jumbled that last bit out there.. Nit picking is one of the most important things. I dont know if this ever happens to you but I found alot of times I'd be working under someone and would be constantly trying to improve on something, anything.. I find alot of people get stuck in a hamster wheel and get content with their work and lack innovation.. Very few people I've worked with are innovative. For example I have over 4 different types of shelving in my garage and im still not sure which one is best LOL The last one I built is kind of interesting its fully mad out of plywood and its no nails or anything just notched into itself. If your really looking to bring up your carpentry skills watch Framming Houses with Larry Hahn on youtube. Watch the full series its from joists to roof. That will bring up your carpentry knowledge x10.
Use 6 chains to the roof/joists and just forget about the 2x4 that the chains hang from or keep every thing the same just add two 2x4 from the edge down at an angle to the corner of the wall and ground I’d probably put the 2x4 that the chains are hooked to up higher so it pulls down more instead of pulling out as much
Lag bolts. No wall will ever be flat. There is also probably a thick piece of insulation between the garage drywall and framing if it is an attached garage. Get a piece of plywood, secure it to the wall with long lag bolts to reach the actual studs, then attach the rack to the plywood using even longer lags to account for the plywood thickness.
Triangulate from the bottom as well. That way the load is distributed to the lower section of the wall as it starts to flex and pull on the top part of the wall.
You should have put a 45 degree kicker brace underneath rack to wall on both ends. Next time don’t do it the hard way when installing the rack instead screw in a temporary short 2x4 to the wall both ends to serve as support to mount the rack.
Use stud finder to find center of studs.. screw in 5 inch long ledger lock screws ..available at Lowe’s .. 1 per stud and it would not have come out. Boom
Run some 2*4's vertically against the wall to support the back of the rack, and use some gussets for or a cross member to support the front of the rack.
I would support the tire rack by having wood support pillars from the ground to the bottom of the structure and make some kind of shelf out of the space under it.
Chain on the front from the 2x4 too the ceiling, and just cut some 2x4 to the height of the rack and screw it into the wall to support the back of the rack(so the weight is on the 2x4 and not the bolts). You could also add diagonal beams from the 2x4s on the wall to support the front of the rack from the bottom.
They make self tapping lag screws. They have bigger treads,use a torxz bit and have larger heads,used for constructing decks and heavy timber frame. They cut their own pilot hole. Mendards sells Spax, Knowing where center of stud is,is important,use a stud finder. Ask a sales person and tell them they are for 2x,you will need a good drill with low speed. eventhough they are self drilling,it doesn't hurt to pilot hole each to prevent splitting. Another option is add a leg under by the garage door end and more chains to the ceiling studs above. Good luck,measure twice.
roof chains on front side double it up or at least add 30% more. put 2X4s on the wall to the floor from the bottom of the rack. also never stand under a load. even if its 3lbs it could still kill you in seconds.
I made a video on how to do a tire rack when I moved into my garage. (Shameless plug) My design was plenty strong, It held tires, heads, shortblock etc. Shortly after finishing the rack, a company called Fleximount USA sent me a pre fab, garage storage shelf that I used as a rack. You can reference my video for ideas or get in contact with fleximounts to see if they will help you out! Good luck.
Use lag bolts and make sure they are in the studs, looks like you didn't hit them all properly, also, I would make a rack to hold 1 or 2 sets of tires at the most., just make a second rack for more tires
I would’ve toggle bolted a sheet of 3/4” plywood to the wall first then screwed to that. Screw the plywood to the studs also, but toggle bolts in between. Spread the load across the wall.
use a stud finder If you didn't already one and use timberlok truss screws the new and improved lag bolts to bolt the wall 2x4's to the wall. they are used to support decks to houses and a lot of other heavy applications.
Easy fix. Just do a long work bench and transfer the tires rack to the top supported by 4 studs on each corner. And minimise the amount of wood you have on the rack, it won't crack the wood
2 1/2" screws wont work. Crooked wall or not. Lag bolts are the way to go. Just ask your local lumber yard. I'd go with 3/8" lag bolt. 4"-5" long, depending on your wall width.
Figured duct tape and bubble gum held anything up on a wall if you got enough of it.. i once hung a 10lb dumbell, like the grey octagon ones, to a wall with fix-a-dent and that shit stayed up there for years until i moved out and even then when i pulled it off it took the drywall with it.. fix-a-dent good shit.. i dont see how an old person even gets their eatin teeth out after using that stuff..
If you have solid roof beams and not some suspended ceiling. Solid structural way to get solid tire rack would be have chains to go roof beam(s). Nice change of normal car only projects at this channel. keep it up.
Should have used a longer support beam up top and put your eye hooks in between where it screws into the studs to distribute weight to your mounting points. The way you have done it, you almost may as well have just put the eye hooks into the studs themselves and done away with the support beam... ====:=====:==?==: Instead of ====:====?:
Use toggle bolts..youll drill a large hole through the wood and drywall..then shove a bolt with like a bitterly looking thing..do 2 in between studs and you should be fine
Soo if you got rid of your torn to shit tires you wouldn’t need the rack 🤣.... also, you should of ran supports 90 degrees vertically to the base and used metal brackets to join them, screwing into end grain isnt very strong and can cause wood to split. With each vertical support secure to the base with help from a few buddies you lift into place then secure into the wall studs with several screws going up each vertical support and screws along the base into the stud as well, then attach chains from vertical support down to the base... also make sure the screws you are using are rated to a specific application or pome sort of sheer or pound test ratings. When done that way your not just running. A chain from a stand alone board... that’s why it broke. Look out cantilever shelving for guidance.
if you're gonna use chains like that you should use a tensioner as well (they're bassicaly two hooks with thread in between them). you can already see at 10:18 that those middle chains do nothing. you could also look into concrete anchors or something along those lines if it's a decent wall. either that or use way bigger screws ;)
Easiest fix here is get 3 inch wood screws and screw them in the 2x4 studs ffs.... There is no possible way you had screws into a 2x4... The tensile strength is insane.. The 2x4 would literally break itself before those screws pulled out.. Im a carpenter for 10 years and litterally can hold 10,000 lbs Iron beams with nothing but 2x4s some nails and abit of plywood.. So 3' screws into 2x4s.. Your plan was perfect and well thought out you just missing the hands on working experience, understanding of materials etc etc... Anywho Cheers Great work!!
Over complicated the hell out of it. The weight of all the wood alone bout rips it out. Just have a chain and one 2x4 and just have a full plywood shelf mount to the wall
If finding the studs was difficult, likely aluminum or steel studs were used in the construction of your building (unless you have a stud finder that is made for metal studs, they cause odd readings). These can also cause the stucture to pull out as you only have a few millimeters of grip on your bolts. The solution to this is toggle bolts into the drywall. For your rack, I would recommend www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-3-8-in-HTB-Toggler-Bolts-with-Slotted-Round-Head-Screw-4-Pack-3512331/204992999 3/8" or bigger. The packaging will give you the load rating.
So what do you guys think I should do? Use some of your ides here and make the shelf work or should I take the shelf down and cut it in half and make it into a 2 level cart with wheels that I can move around?
Nah, make the shelf work. If you make it a cart to roll around it will still be in the way in the shop.
Drill half inch holes n use toggle bolts also adding a plywood backing would help
like yousmellfunnytoo said use lag bolts there meant to hold more weight some legs on the front would help as well you could make a desk space under it but replacing all the hardware you have securing it to the wall with lag screws/bolts should fix your issue
Heavy duty eye bolt with nuts through the 8x2's in the ceiling. Don't trust the studs in the wall with it being built like shit.
you need anchors, not screw LOLOLOLOLOLOL
You want to use lag bolts to secure it to the wall studs not screws. With your screws being 2-1/2 inches by the time you go threw the 2x4 and then the dry wall your lucky if there is a 1/2inch of screw in the actual stud.
Seriously like that you shared a fail with us. It’s great to learn about what works, but knowing potential pitfalls is equally as beneficial! Thanks!
DON'T go blaming a "crooked wall" when the bottom line is you did not know what you were doing. c'mon
Take a small trim nail and tap it in every inch and you will find a stud. I've had stuff finders that were all jacked up. Trim nail works the best at finding them!
Lag Bolts! Those screws are not designed to hold that weight.
Lag screws on the top, don't use wood / drywall screws. Or hang the chains from the exposed joists in the ceiling.
@noxxi knox
Screws are highest in tensile strength which is weight in the pulling direction.. Hense the threads.. All electrical boxes use screws for tensile strength kapiche?
Screws are less ideal for shear strength as they are brittle, nails are almost exclusively used in hangers etc. ( sheer load applications)
Lag bolts are not the ideal fastner in this sitituion a 3 1/4 inch deck screw or construction screw is more then adequate and would be superior to lag bolt, because it does not comprise wood members.
@noxxi knox
Hi my point with the electrical boxes is the those little screws when fully tightened have over 1000lbs tensile strength. Although not load intensive if a wire is connected to a set screw with 1000lbs tensile strength its probably not going to wiggle loose. That being said 1000lbs tensile strength basically means that the threads on that little screw is taking 1000lbs of force.
You are over thinking the deck screws having a weak thread. Even when you remove screws from a 2x4 with a crowbar the screw threads do not fail. What fails is the wood 2x4 and thats why it gets so smashed up. We are talking just a regular Deck or Construction screw 3' length. That also being said, do an experiment put a 3" screw in a ceiling joist tie a wire around it and hang some weight.. I know for a fact its gonna take 80lbs of force at least.
@noxxi knox
Hey its a sign of intelligence to take things like that slow and fully ponder the situation.
The issue he has is simply, the ledger board screws he used were 2 1/2 inches so with the ledger board and assuming 1/2 or 5/8 drywall he would only have 1/2" penetration.
The drywall plus ledger board is at least 2" so he needs a minimum over a 3" screw. A screw needs a certain thread count contact to be effective.
When you are screwing into wooden members you want at least 1 1/2" penetration for maximum structural purposes. ( meaning anymore than an 1'1/2 penetration is over kill and not gonna do anything except for maybe weaken structural members but thats a different matter)
@noxxi knox Haha yes, carpenter by trade. Had the pleasure of working under my grandfather so have a kinda have a 2 world perspective on things.
Funny story I built some support brackets out of 2x4s and plywood. They were to support a 10,000 lb I-beam that was getting dropped in the house. Anyway I build these brackets with 1/2 plywood and 2x material (sheeted both sides think 2x4 L with plywood). Anyway the beam slipped on one of the brackets and sheared it right in half! However the point in which it sheared the 2x4 bracket was exactly the point where both fasteners would meet each other. I didn't changed the nails in my gun, and because I used 3" nails instead of 2 1/4" nails the nails basically drove a wedge through the 2x timber where they would meet on either side. Nailed with 8" pattern
Yeah exactly! I kinda jumbled that last bit out there.. Nit picking is one of the most important things. I dont know if this ever happens to you but I found alot of times I'd be working under someone and would be constantly trying to improve on something, anything.. I find alot of people get stuck in a hamster wheel and get content with their work and lack innovation.. Very few people I've worked with are innovative.
For example I have over 4 different types of shelving in my garage and im still not sure which one is best LOL
The last one I built is kind of interesting its fully mad out of plywood and its no nails or anything just notched into itself.
If your really looking to bring up your carpentry skills watch Framming Houses with Larry Hahn on youtube. Watch the full series its from joists to roof. That will bring up your carpentry knowledge x10.
Bro made the heaviest, floppiest shelf possible with that weird inner brace thing.
Use 6 chains to the roof/joists and just forget about the 2x4 that the chains hang from or keep every thing the same just add two 2x4 from the edge down at an angle to the corner of the wall and ground I’d probably put the 2x4 that the chains are hooked to up higher so it pulls down more instead of pulling out as much
Lag bolts. No wall will ever be flat. There is also probably a thick piece of insulation between the garage drywall and framing if it is an attached garage. Get a piece of plywood, secure it to the wall with long lag bolts to reach the actual studs, then attach the rack to the plywood using even longer lags to account for the plywood thickness.
Would you consider putting the chains directly attached to the roof beams even if you had to double brace them
Use the rafters up on the ceiling for support as well as the floor
put 2 supports under it angled back into to the wall on each end to support it underneath its pulling on the screws too hard
if you use a stud finder it helps save a lot of head ache, and longer screws to mount the rack to the studs
Triangulate from the bottom as well. That way the load is distributed to the lower section of the wall as it starts to flex and pull on the top part of the wall.
And try using lag bolts to bolt the 2x4 to the studs, they will have more bite than a typical wood screw
Google "Cabinet Screws" you'll never go back.They're easy to find, mostly use torx bits, super affordable, and work great
You should have put a 45 degree kicker brace underneath rack to wall on both ends. Next time don’t do it the hard way when installing the rack instead screw in a temporary short 2x4 to the wall both ends to serve as support to mount the rack.
triangular supporting brace from the bottom could 2x4 cut at 45deg at each end. OR use a supporting ground post
Use stud finder to find center of studs.. screw in 5 inch long ledger lock screws ..available at Lowe’s .. 1 per stud and it would not have come out. Boom
Run some 2*4's vertically against the wall to support the back of the rack, and use some gussets for or a cross member to support the front of the rack.
you could buid shelves underneath the rack. that would make more than enough support for it unless you wanted that space open for something else
I would support the tire rack by having wood support pillars from the ground to the bottom of the structure and make some kind of shelf out of the space under it.
Use 90 degree metal suprort brakets for the bottom shelf as well or just have chains going to the roof
Chain on the front from the 2x4 too the ceiling, and just cut some 2x4 to the height of the rack and screw it into the wall to support the back of the rack(so the weight is on the 2x4 and not the bolts). You could also add diagonal beams from the 2x4s on the wall to support the front of the rack from the bottom.
They make self tapping lag screws. They have bigger treads,use a torxz bit and have larger heads,used for constructing decks and heavy timber frame. They cut their own pilot hole. Mendards sells Spax, Knowing where center of stud is,is important,use a stud finder. Ask a sales person and tell them they are for 2x,you will need a good drill with low speed. eventhough they are self drilling,it doesn't hurt to pilot hole each to prevent splitting.
Another option is add a leg under by the garage door end and more chains to the ceiling studs above. Good luck,measure twice.
if the bottom is holding good put the hooks on the ceiling or use drywall anchors.
roof chains on front side double it up or at least add 30% more. put 2X4s on the wall to the floor from the bottom of the rack.
also never stand under a load. even if its 3lbs it could still kill you in seconds.
You didn't plug the holes where you mounted the screws to the wall, hence why your thing fell, get longer and fatter screws.
I made a video on how to do a tire rack when I moved into my garage. (Shameless plug) My design was plenty strong, It held tires, heads, shortblock etc. Shortly after finishing the rack, a company called Fleximount USA sent me a pre fab, garage storage shelf that I used as a rack. You can reference my video for ideas or get in contact with fleximounts to see if they will help you out! Good luck.
I love off beat garage he got that tutorials on lock
Same setup but use lag bolts to mount rack to wall.
Or if you have exposed steel beams above you could use beam clamps and 1/2” all thread down from the ceiling instead of chains to the wall
Use Lag Bolts instead of #8 screws to attach the rack to the wall.
Drill 10mm holes and put 12mm coach bolts in the screws are under engineered. It doesn't matter that the wall is wonky.
They should use a 2 x 10 or even 2x 12 for the top piece.
Use lag bolts and make sure they are in the studs, looks like you didn't hit them all properly, also, I would make a rack to hold 1 or 2 sets of tires at the most., just make a second rack for more tires
Epic. Cookie. Save.
could keep it as it is AND add some legs to support from the bottom and throw in some shelves to have a bitching shelf space right under it.
Lag bolts, run chains straight up, if needed, which i doubt but add 2 legs
Can't use regular screws to mount to a wall, lagbolts is best. But good 💡
I would’ve toggle bolted a sheet of 3/4” plywood to the wall first then screwed to that. Screw the plywood to the studs also, but toggle bolts in between. Spread the load across the wall.
use a stud finder If you didn't already one and use timberlok truss screws the new and improved lag bolts to bolt the wall 2x4's to the wall. they are used to support decks to houses and a lot of other heavy applications.
I came across your channel when you bought the 240, you had around 2k subs, and now you have over 100k!
Easy fix. Just do a long work bench and transfer the tires rack to the top supported by 4 studs on each corner. And minimise the amount of wood you have on the rack, it won't crack the wood
Find studs amd use longer lag bolts
Did you use a stud finder
Put some bracing on the bottom of the rack and you should be 100% fine.
Longer screws. Going through a 2x4 then drywall and into another 2x4.
I'm surprised you didn't weld one with wheels on it so you can move it around as well.
Id just do 2 staggered torx head anchor screws every inch guarantees u find a stud and holds weight well
2 1/2" screws wont work. Crooked wall or not. Lag bolts are the way to go. Just ask your local lumber yard. I'd go with 3/8" lag bolt. 4"-5" long, depending on your wall width.
Dude brace from underneath. Imagine a triangle on your wall... the brace pushes the weight back into the wall rather than full load away from the wall
You should have used large togle bolts for the top support and bottom base no need for studs.
togglebolts and the drywall arent going to carry all that weight.
Figured duct tape and bubble gum held anything up on a wall if you got enough of it.. i once hung a 10lb dumbell, like the grey octagon ones, to a wall with fix-a-dent and that shit stayed up there for years until i moved out and even then when i pulled it off it took the drywall with it.. fix-a-dent good shit.. i dont see how an old person even gets their eatin teeth out after using that stuff..
Buy a stud finder an some anchors
What if you add vertical 2x4's where all the suds are to give more support?
Or instead of using a online drill size guide just line the drill bit up with the shank of the screw and make sure the threads are showing
A couple of those tires look like they've seen better days. One is completely shredded. Why store something you can't even use?
i think it will work if u just put the tires on the rack without the rims.
The studs might be 24" on center instead of 16" on center
Andrew Beharry this is common in garages and older buildings
This is amazing!! Gorgeous 😍 2:22
Use an impact driver for screws, a lot easier.
Whats your day job? How do you have so much time to do things in the garage?
I did this tire rack in two days after work. Hence why you see it get dark cause most of it was done late into the night like until 10pm-Midnight.
that, and he doesn't upload all that often. it would be different if he uploaded everyday.
Stud finder and lag bolts
use tapcon screw anchors
If you have solid roof beams and not some suspended ceiling. Solid structural way to get solid tire rack would be have chains to go roof beam(s). Nice change of normal car only projects at this channel. keep it up.
Wall plugs, larger screws and lower supports.
It would be fine if you use 3" screws instead of 2.5"...
Should have used a longer support beam up top and put your eye hooks in between where it screws into the studs to distribute weight to your mounting points. The way you have done it, you almost may as well have just put the eye hooks into the studs themselves and done away with the support beam... ====:=====:==?==: Instead of ====:====?:
Take the chains to the ceiling.for support's
Use toggle bolts..youll drill a large hole through the wood and drywall..then shove a bolt with like a bitterly looking thing..do 2 in between studs and you should be fine
Here in MI a 2x4 is 1.75 by 3.75
should have used epoxy studds or whatewer thay were called...
make legs and add shelves?
Soo if you got rid of your torn to shit tires you wouldn’t need the rack 🤣.... also, you should of ran supports 90 degrees vertically to the base and used metal brackets to join them, screwing into end grain isnt very strong and can cause wood to split. With each vertical support secure to the base with help from a few buddies you lift into place then secure into the wall studs with several screws going up each vertical support and screws along the base into the stud as well, then attach chains from vertical support down to the base... also make sure the screws you are using are rated to a specific application or pome sort of sheer or pound test ratings. When done that way your not just running. A chain from a stand alone board... that’s why it broke. Look out cantilever shelving for guidance.
if you're gonna use chains like that you should use a tensioner as well (they're bassicaly two hooks with thread in between them). you can already see at 10:18 that those middle chains do nothing. you could also look into concrete anchors or something along those lines if it's a decent wall. either that or use way bigger screws ;)
Should have just tried it to purlins
Could have put 2 L Brackets on each end. Looks dope !
Easiest fix here is get 3 inch wood screws and screw them in the 2x4 studs ffs.... There is no possible way you had screws into a 2x4... The tensile strength is insane.. The 2x4 would literally break itself before those screws pulled out.. Im a carpenter for 10 years and litterally can hold 10,000 lbs Iron beams with nothing but 2x4s some nails and abit of plywood..
So 3' screws into 2x4s.. Your plan was perfect and well thought out you just missing the hands on working experience, understanding of materials etc etc...
Anywho Cheers Great work!!
Bigger screws. Lag bolts my guy
Texas?
Put some legs under it so it has extra support but yea it wold probably look weird
Use lag bolts not those dry wall screws lmao
Lag bolts into the studs breh
What state are you in ?
+Horizon Garage California
Just glue the sides with som good glue
Redo the screws that came out and it should be solid. Unless you actually need it for monkey bars haha
Over complicated the hell out of it. The weight of all the wood alone bout rips it out. Just have a chain and one 2x4 and just have a full plywood shelf mount to the wall
No need for pre drilling any screw your gonna buy in a hardware store is gonna be more then adequate for 2x members without drilling
Just put four legs under it and build shelving with the legs.
Use torq screws
Use some damn lag bolts
If finding the studs was difficult, likely aluminum or steel studs were used in the construction of your building (unless you have a stud finder that is made for metal studs, they cause odd readings). These can also cause the stucture to pull out as you only have a few millimeters of grip on your bolts. The solution to this is toggle bolts into the drywall. For your rack, I would recommend www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-3-8-in-HTB-Toggler-Bolts-with-Slotted-Round-Head-Screw-4-Pack-3512331/204992999 3/8" or bigger. The packaging will give you the load rating.
Think of the straw affect
That blows
teach me how to magic pls
Use 3 1/2 inch wood screws
Paint it purple
Well, could be worse, at least you didn't fix it with nails.
jus put x2 post underneath for support