Just for your information, in the aluminum boat factory industry. On the production lines they don't use the foot pedal to weld the aluminum together. They use a push button on the side of the stinger to start and stop the welding. And then you will have to have a burn through on the inside the size of the welding rod without any pin wholes in it. And then instead of going six inches a minute, you will have to go ten to twelve inches a minute, and the thickness of the aluminum varies depending on the size of the boat that is ordered. From .043 up to .064 and some even a little bit thicker. And when I was a welder in a boat factory for seven years, I had to weld all different sizes of boats. From ten foot river boats up to twenty five foot bass boats in length and that included the pontoon boats, along with all of the parts that was used in the boats.
@@galeogle it’s pretty crazy all the different scenarios welders get into. Sometimes speed is the most important thing. Sometimes a porosity free weld. Sometimes color match after anodizing…etc. always more to learn
Not sure if you're aware of this, but it absolutely NEEDS to be said. What you have given to the welding industry is second to none. Worldwide, I doubt there is a welder who hasn't been influenced by you at one time or another. Sometimes without even knowing it. Now I'm not blowing smoke up your arse, not that kind of guy. But credit where credit is due. Thanks Jody for all your years of knowledge
Believe me, people, this is the right of welding. I am a technician in this field and I have benefited from him in many things, even though I am a technical welder in all welding fields
I really dont mind the ads at the end of the vids for his content. Whilst I haven't paid for the dudes stuff yet, i definitely will once ive got the time to sit down and weld more
I've been subscribed and following you for a long time, and your content and thorough coverage of welding ally has been the backbone to my decision to invest in an ACDC inverter. I've been using your settings as guidance and a starting point for machine settings, prep and technique and it has put me in a good position to produce some quality joints. Some look prettier than others, that's on me as the operator. But they are all strong joints regardless of presentation. Thanks Jody 🤙 🇦🇺 Also, I'm not a welder - it's just a practical hobby of mine.
i love your channel. no nonsense, just experience. i've been trying a lot of these techniques in the shop. I was using the lay wire technique yesterday on an old '56 Plymouth wheel to make it easier to weld around the curve. Your videos have made me more conscious of what i'm doing (and why) when i'm welding. thank you
2017 since i started watching your videos and tips sir Jodie, and Thank you so much it help me a lot on my career as a welder. 2017 i started with stick welding, now present day i'm doing tig for aluminum and stainless steel. ehehe i can do piping also. your videos are the best. next goal for my career is to get a aerospace job as welder. God bless and more power to your page sir Jodie.
As usual, great info Jody. I've never even thought about brushing the backside, but always do the weld side. The amount of old wire brushes I have taken home with "Ali only" written on them, because someone at work has taken it off my bench and used it for something else... 😡 Great for scraping the BBQ grill. 🤣
Rather than wire brush to clean after welding you can use Ali Cleaner it leaves the welds clean and also cleans the parent metal. On tread plate you must only clean the weld with a brush and wash off with water immediately so as not to damage the coating on the Aluminium.
Something interesting that I noticed while messing around with some 4" sched 40 pipe is vertical down welding aluminum will actually suck out the root and vertical up will push it in. I'm trying to figure out how to push the root in on the bottom or overhead portion of a 6g test on aluminum. Any help would be appreciated...if it's even possible. Much thanks for the video Jody and keep on keepin on!
Hey could you make a video on tacking different material thicknesses? I have started a aerospace job where tacking is crucial as we are tacking two different thicknesses, one being thicker then the other, one mess up and the whole weld drops through. Also having trouble with a fillet weld that has a small ledge and the puddle wants to drag up and burn that out. All the stuff I have mention Varys from 30 to 50 thousands and on dc stainless steel tig
Are there something about welding "arc on arc" tandem tig welding on welderskills, thank you for another great video, ain't welding aluminium often so it Nice to keep it up to date 😊
Muy buenos videos ,la pena no pueda entender todas las palabras del idioma , con ver las imágenes ya me vasta ,desde un móvil no se puede traducir ,,ya estoy bastante grande para aprender inglés ,pero lo desearía,ya que aquí en estos temas de soldadura si Vien hay información nunca llega con ese nivel ,muchas grasias por compartir su gran experiencia ,un saludo
Hey Jody, im in the aerospace maintenance and repair side of welding. Could you do a vid on s .032 6061 but joint to simulate crack repair. I am having issues with porosity sometimes, that being said, the material is often been in service for quite some time, and can only clean it best I can. Thanks for the videos!
Try experimenting with different abrasives. Abrasives have different metals inside them even the soft scotch brite ones. For example when i weld titanium is use the tan scotch brites since the maroon scotch brites give porosity. Maybe your abrasive is introducing a contaminate the aluminum cant tolerate . try using kim wipes instead of rags when cleaning with acetone. Also adjust your machine to have more cleaning action. Some machines call it different things sometimes dig or balance.
You should not scratch back and forth with the brush due to risk of moisture being trapped in the surface of the metal. It does help on x-ray welds. After all aluminium oxide is very hygroscopic.
There's a good practice for low and medium thickness aluminum to make a bevel at the bottom side for the butt joint. You then have full penetration but no sagging.
Jody do you have a 2G open butt aluminum test video on .50 or .250 thick aluminum using a backing strap? I took a test last week and failed it cuz I was expecting something else. It was failed on visual cuz I wasn't prepared for the test. I did complete it but was dunking tungsten. I had never used a 17 size torch with 3/16 tungsten on a half inch aluminum open but. It was interesting and I got invited back to retest in 60 days. I have a 255ext and could probably practice the test on .250 material. I looked through your videos and didn't find a 2G open but on thick aluminum. Thanks for you time -Ken
@@InchFab T6 and 5556 I had a brush. I didn't have the gear to deal with the heat. I had a pair of 1350's and no heat shield. It was basically tested by visual. They let me run a few beads and approved for me to take the test. Then visually inspected the root which was good, but once seeing the cap they failed it. So never got grinded and bent. And they didn't provide a grinder. But my interview went real good so that's why they asked me to come test.
I watch every video that Jody makes and he makes everything look so easy but no mater what I do I can not start an aluminum joint without filler rod and a big dirty blob. Please do a video to explain all I need to do.
When I teach TIG, I teach aluminum first. Steel is too forgiving, prople can develop bad habits. With aluminum, there is no mistake in what you are seeing.
haha....i put my garage door windows from the second tier down to the top like yours......too many rubber necks and i want to keep my shop safe as possible
Jody, are you conflating aluminum oxide and aluminum mill scale?? Oxide is not visible and will 'heal' itself in a few seconds- mill scale- the layer shown is not the same animal. You should make sure to make your viewers are aware... IMO. Oxide broken up in furrows flakes/floats off the parent metal in AC w hot argon cover. Mill scale retains water vapor which often ends with 'salt & pepper' flecks on a finish weld, ends up causing gas bubbles in the root face, 'white flowers' on the weathered part (especially 5k & 6k alloys) and is very visible. Brushing w SS brush will take off mill scale and furrow the oxide that forms in 2-3 sec.
welderskills.com/pages/ws-7-day-test-drive
Just for your information, in the aluminum boat factory industry. On the production lines they don't use the foot pedal to weld the aluminum together. They use a push button on the side of the stinger to start and stop the welding. And then you will have to have a burn through on the inside the size of the welding rod without any pin wholes in it. And then instead of going six inches a minute, you will have to go ten to twelve inches a minute, and the thickness of the aluminum varies depending on the size of the boat that is ordered. From .043 up to .064 and some even a little bit thicker. And when I was a welder in a boat factory for seven years, I had to weld all different sizes of boats. From ten foot river boats up to twenty five foot bass boats in length and that included the pontoon boats, along with all of the parts that was used in the boats.
@@galeogle it’s pretty crazy all the different scenarios welders get into. Sometimes speed is the most important thing. Sometimes a porosity free weld. Sometimes color match after anodizing…etc. always more to learn
Not sure if you're aware of this, but it absolutely NEEDS to be said. What you have given to the welding industry is second to none. Worldwide, I doubt there is a welder who hasn't been influenced by you at one time or another. Sometimes without even knowing it. Now I'm not blowing smoke up your arse, not that kind of guy. But credit where credit is due.
Thanks Jody for all your years of knowledge
Always great to see a new video from Jody. Or to watch the old ones. They are gold!
Believe me, people, this is the right of welding. I am a technician in this field and I have benefited from him in many things, even though I am a technical welder in all welding fields
I really dont mind the ads at the end of the vids for his content. Whilst I haven't paid for the dudes stuff yet, i definitely will once ive got the time to sit down and weld more
I've been subscribed and following you for a long time, and your content and thorough coverage of welding ally has been the backbone to my decision to invest in an ACDC inverter. I've been using your settings as guidance and a starting point for machine settings, prep and technique and it has put me in a good position to produce some quality joints. Some look prettier than others, that's on me as the operator. But they are all strong joints regardless of presentation. Thanks Jody 🤙
🇦🇺 Also, I'm not a welder - it's just a practical hobby of mine.
Excellent info Jody, thanks! Seeing both side at the same time was really informative.
Outstanding arc/puddle and penetration presentation. This is the stuff that sets your videos apart Jody. Thanks
i love your channel. no nonsense, just experience. i've been trying a lot of these techniques in the shop. I was using the lay wire technique yesterday on an old '56 Plymouth wheel to make it easier to weld around the curve. Your videos have made me more conscious of what i'm doing (and why) when i'm welding. thank you
Thank you for all the effort you put into sharing your skills with us young guys! Making all this content is a lot of work
2017 since i started watching your videos and tips sir Jodie, and Thank you so much it help me a lot on my career as a welder. 2017 i started with stick welding, now present day i'm doing tig for aluminum and stainless steel. ehehe i can do piping also. your videos are the best. next goal for my career is to get a aerospace job as welder. God bless and more power to your page sir Jodie.
As usual, great info Jody. I've never even thought about brushing the backside, but always do the weld side.
The amount of old wire brushes I have taken home with "Ali only" written on them, because someone at work has taken it off my bench and used it for something else... 😡
Great for scraping the BBQ grill. 🤣
Super video! I really appreciate your work, made me and others better welders!
I became a very good TIG welder off of your videos and thank you
Excellent quality again. Thank you, Jody. Jim in Oregon
Great video Jody, excellent presentation. Fred.
Absolutely exceptional video capture.
Rather than wire brush to clean after welding you can use Ali Cleaner it leaves the welds clean and also cleans the parent metal.
On tread plate you must only clean the weld with a brush and wash off with water immediately so as not to damage the coating on the Aluminium.
Hello and greetings from Austria 👋 Very interesting Video, well done 👍
An excellent lesson
Something interesting that I noticed while messing around with some 4" sched 40 pipe is vertical down welding aluminum will actually suck out the root and vertical up will push it in. I'm trying to figure out how to push the root in on the bottom or overhead portion of a 6g test on aluminum. Any help would be appreciated...if it's even possible. Much thanks for the video Jody and keep on keepin on!
Thanks Jody
Hey could you make a video on tacking different material thicknesses? I have started a aerospace job where tacking is crucial as we are tacking two different thicknesses, one being thicker then the other, one mess up and the whole weld drops through. Also having trouble with a fillet weld that has a small ledge and the puddle wants to drag up and burn that out. All the stuff I have mention Varys from 30 to 50 thousands and on dc stainless steel tig
Are there something about welding "arc on arc" tandem tig welding on welderskills, thank you for another great video, ain't welding aluminium often so it Nice to keep it up to date 😊
Muy buenos videos ,la pena no pueda entender todas las palabras del idioma , con ver las imágenes ya me vasta ,desde un móvil no se puede traducir ,,ya estoy bastante grande para aprender inglés ,pero lo desearía,ya que aquí en estos temas de soldadura si Vien hay información nunca llega con ese nivel ,muchas grasias por compartir su gran experiencia ,un saludo
Hey Jody, im in the aerospace maintenance and repair side of welding. Could you do a vid on s .032 6061 but joint to simulate crack repair. I am having issues with porosity sometimes, that being said, the material is often been in service for quite some time, and can only clean it best I can. Thanks for the videos!
Try experimenting with different abrasives. Abrasives have different metals inside them even the soft scotch brite ones. For example when i weld titanium is use the tan scotch brites since the maroon scotch brites give porosity. Maybe your abrasive is introducing a contaminate the aluminum cant tolerate .
try using kim wipes instead of rags when cleaning with acetone.
Also adjust your machine to have more cleaning action. Some machines call it different things sometimes dig or balance.
Dear sir overhead position welding can possible with hardfacing electrodes.
Todo un profecional saludos desde mexico❤
Looks great. Is there a vid about testing cleaning products other than acetone?
I don’t have a video but I sometimes use isopropyl alcohol. It’s got some water in it but seems to work ok for most jobs
@@weldingtipsandtricks Thanks for the reply Jody. I think acetone is to harsh of a chemical to have in my garage. I use isopropanol all the time.
You should not scratch back and forth with the brush due to risk of moisture being trapped in the surface of the metal. It does help on x-ray welds. After all aluminium oxide is very hygroscopic.
Merci pour cette vidéo très bien expliquée , comme d'habitude,
There's a good practice for low and medium thickness aluminum to make a bevel at the bottom side for the butt joint. You then have full penetration but no sagging.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll try that
Whats your thoughts on mig welding 8mm aluminium plate
Wow! I used a clear glass cup on aluminum years ago and it literally blew up on me. What kind of glass cup is that?
So informative, thank you!
Im still teaching myself how to weld, I've been neglecting my Hobart Welder just collecting dust🤦♂️
Jody do you have a 2G open butt aluminum test video on .50 or .250 thick aluminum using a backing strap?
I took a test last week and failed it cuz I was expecting something else. It was failed on visual cuz I wasn't prepared for the test. I did complete it but was dunking tungsten. I had never used a 17 size torch with 3/16 tungsten on a half inch aluminum open but. It was interesting and I got invited back to retest in 60 days.
I have a 255ext and could probably practice the test on .250 material.
I looked through your videos and didn't find a 2G open but on thick aluminum.
Thanks for you time
-Ken
I don’t have a video like that yet but good luck with your retest
@@weldingtipsandtricks thanks bud
Multiple passes? Did they allow you other tools like a brush, file, grinder, etc? What size filler? What alloy of base materials and filler?
@@InchFab T6 and 5556
I had a brush. I didn't have the gear to deal with the heat. I had a pair of 1350's and no heat shield. It was basically tested by visual. They let me run a few beads and approved for me to take the test. Then visually inspected the root which was good, but once seeing the cap they failed it. So never got grinded and bent. And they didn't provide a grinder.
But my interview went real good so that's why they asked me to come test.
I watch every video that Jody makes and he makes everything look so easy but no mater what I do I can not start an aluminum joint without filler rod and a big dirty blob. Please do a video to explain all I need to do.
Around 757 of this older video shows what you describe ruclips.net/video/LuRCoEshNto/видео.htmlsi=94G1N0feagUUUIOL
When I teach TIG, I teach aluminum first. Steel is too forgiving, prople can develop bad habits. With aluminum, there is no mistake in what you are seeing.
Do you have one of these for stainless steel with the primeweld tig225x
haha....i put my garage door windows from the second tier down to the top like yours......too many rubber necks and i want to keep my shop safe as possible
Wow
You should play a song from "one direction" while brushing.....should help
"Sometimes you have to soak it before penetrating" ~Joseph Smith, probably
Jody, are you conflating aluminum oxide and aluminum mill scale?? Oxide is not visible and will 'heal' itself in a few seconds- mill scale- the layer shown is not the same animal. You should make sure to make your viewers are aware... IMO. Oxide broken up in furrows flakes/floats off the parent metal in AC w hot argon cover. Mill scale retains water vapor which often ends with 'salt & pepper' flecks on a finish weld, ends up causing gas bubbles in the root face, 'white flowers' on the weathered part (especially 5k & 6k alloys) and is very visible. Brushing w SS brush will take off mill scale and furrow the oxide that forms in 2-3 sec.
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