Adam Savage's Vacuum Forming Machine
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Adam wipes the dust off of his old large vacuum forming machine and uses it for an ongoing Apollo spacesuit project! Here's a primer on vacuum forming and how it's been used in special effects and prop-making. Adam's machine has a few quirks, so let's see how it performs!
Shot and edited by Joey Fameli
Music by Jinglepunks
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Thanks for watching!
#AdamSavage #tools
Enjoying this tour of machines in Adam's shop? Here's his milling machine: ruclips.net/video/3735B42v-wI/видео.html
Hey Adam, And The Tested Crew. I Watched The Video Of Your Scratch-Built Space Ship You Put Out Last Week. You Briefly Showcased Your Smaller Vacuum Former And That Sparked My Interest In The Whole Process. Which Brought Me Here To Watch This Video From A Few Years Ago And Left An Even More Profound Impression. So I Started Down The Rabbit Hole That Is RUclips In Search Of Build Models For Vacuum Formers. Came Across A Few Devices That Looked Promising In Terms Of Build Quality, Ease Of Use, And Overall Effectiveness. But Ultimately The One You Showcased In This Video Seems To Hit All The Necessary Bullet Points And Then Some, With Features That I Couldn't Find In Anyone Else's Build. Mainly The Independent Heating Elements And The Mechanism To Raise/Lower You Medium Uniformly And Accurately. I Am Extremely Interested In Building My Own Model Now, Thanks To You. The Same Size As Your Larger Vacuum Former, The Model In This Video. In Fact I Would Love One That Is Exactly Like The One In This Video. I Was Wondering If You Had Any Type Of Schematics Posted/Uploaded Anywhere Accessible To The General Public. That Along With A List Of Building Materials Or A General Guide And Instructions For Assembly. If You Had The Entire Process Documented And Available To Anyone Who Wishes To Build It, I Would Be Astounded And Grateful. If They Are Not Available Already, Is There A Way You Could Make Them Available? I'm Sure There Is A Fair Amount Of People Who Would Be Interested In The Process, And Maybe Some Others Who Are Interested In Constructing A Vacuum Former Of Their Own.
Long Time Fan Of Yours, Adam. Since The First Season Of MythBusters. I'm Happy That You Continuously Share Your Work And Experience With Your Audience. You Provide A Great Service To Your Community. I Look Forward To Reading Your Book.
@@glorifiedg22
I don't want to be present when they read your will.
@@user-pn4ux9gx5m LoL. Why?
@@glorifiedg22 Joke. For the length of your comment. 😆
@@user-pn4ux9gx5m Lol. In That Case, If And When I Do Make A Will I'll Make Sure To Leave You Everything.
ADAM!!! Use a compressed air nozzle blowing in the edge to separate the piece from the back!!! It will pop right out! No hammering or messing around!
+Xplosion51 well he's obviously done better at life than you :)
+Xplosion51 It obviously did because you're on this planet.
+Xplosion51 I can tell.
+USWaterRockets Seconded!
Nighthawke70 I was shocked that Adam never learned this trick. It's great for demolding castings too!
You should make the same over a Han Solo figurine, just for fun :D
+MrSerrrg88 or a Wolverine one ;)
+MrSerrrg88 I like your thinking!
Awesome idea!
+MrSerrrg88 I would think something with that degree of detail would be really hard to get a good copy of with a vacuum former. It might end up as just a vaguely humanoid blob
+Zelmel I guess the idea is not to get an accurate copy, but more like mimic the "Han Solo in Carbonite" look...
"I learned a bunch of things during this form"
BANG
"I learned that I think I got the plastic actually too warm"
BANG BANG BANG
+alosercalledsusie That is
BANG BANG BANG
really funny quote
Hi you do realise that what was stopping it popping of was the air not able to get in if you use a tube to blow air in next time
If the air can't get in, then how did it get out during the form?
"I learned that I need a tighter"
BANG BANG BANG
Too much heat and it will rip. Too little and it wont form enough.
more adam !
Definitely!!!!!
+Darren Devine
Also: More, Adam!
+Ivan Campos nah norm is good at vr
More Adam! Less Norm!
Darren Devine .. Africa HiTech? nice
Can we get a video supercut of a bunch of Adam's actual mistakes working in the shop? Both for laughs and so we know he's human.
+Charles Hanson the multi-toll holder comes to mind. Gets most of the way through the build & realizes he ruined it & starts over.
He is not a human
@@chance3611 You're correct. He's a Mythbuster
The mold has horrible webbing. He’s human alright
That would be a long video! He admits to making lots of mistakes. He just knows how to fix them.
"I know just the tool!"
*pulls out small handheld fart machine*
that was actually very funny
Joey Fameli: From one editor/producer to another: This was some spectacular editing. I laughed at 5:00 or so with all of the jump cuts. Please include more creative editing like this in the future.
"And that is my vacuformer." *Promptly shoves it back into a corner* :) love seeing it in action. Thanks for this look at fabrication.
I'm surprised Adam didn't blow air with a compressor between the ABS and the form to get it to pop off.
yeah me too.
That's what I was thinking too.
In hindsight, so was Adam!
Same thought, it would have just popped the form off like nothing.
By the time you and your career is forgotten and irrelevant, you’ll have inspired multiple generations. You’ve inspired me....my daughters as well.
Thank you for not including annoying background music in your videos.
+flaggerify I lvoe that Joey usually only resorts to that for the time lapse shots he does!
I'd also like to thank him for not including an annoying foreground noise called Norm in this video.
I have a small vacuum form machine we use at my shop... it has 2 tanks. The air gets vacuumed out of one tank and is pumped into the other. Once the vacuum is drawn and the piece has sufficiently cooled, it's just a matter of reversing the tanks and blowing some air into the the mold to release it. And yes, a rubber mallet is handy sometimes. Also spraying the mold with silicone lubricant can help. The biggest thing... try not to have ANY undercuts or you may find you'll never get the piece off - especially with thicker plastic.
man i wish adam was one of my shop school teachers back in the day :)
i need to make one of those
Same.
Although I doubt he will see this. But Adam has one of my pieces hanging on his wall. So ADAM here's a few tips for next time you are working with a large buck and ABS. First off I often use a flattened air tube attached to my air sprayer. By sliding it down flat along the sides and throwing 120psi air it will release from the buck nicely.. Sometimes the glue in particleboard will stick to the ABS. You can also pop a tiny hole and use a sprayer with a rubber nozzle end to push pressurized air into the piece. This can actually pop the buck clean out of the piece in some cases.
Sadly I doubt you will see this being as busy as you are. But hopefully it will be helpful to someone .
We need MORE Adam and for longer!
Couldn't you drill a hole through the buck so that you could put a shop air blowgun on the hole and separate the pieces?
+John Ridley I was going to suggest the same, but without the hole, as you could do that by pulling out one of the sides. One approach or the other should work!
+John Ridley The buck is held in by friction, not suction.
That and a bit of draft angle would've helped
+Brian Ortiz doesnt look like much of a draft on there, there probably is some suction.
+Brian Ortiz maybe not suction, but adding 100psi to that square foot area of the inside of the top would remove the form in a real hurry.
This is a great Vac-U-form machine. We have the 2'x4' one in our Prop Shop at the University of Michigan. We use binder clips all the way around to clamp the plastic.
I bet if you drilled holes from the sharp inside edges at the top down to the bottom; you could get even better shaping
+3E yup, exactly why most home made ones are done with pegboard.
+MyBrothersMario He means through the buck positive -- the metal base of the former is already perforated. Having a channel(s) through the buck would mean after it seals to the sides of the mdf it can still get detail up high.
you could also use those holes to put compressed air through to remove the form off of the buck without slicing it
+frollard and if you channeled it a bit you might have access to blow air back through to help pop the cast off.
+aintnobitchms that's what I was thinking. even just a shot up the bottom edge of the draw.
I'll be damned if you don't win best Halloween costume every year with all that cool tech.
Could you have drilled a hole in the middle of the form and used air to blow it off ?
Also a couple of screws in the bottom that you could clamp in the vice to hold the form still
I was thinking just a small hole, 1/8" maybe, might mean a bigger hole drilled from the bottom (to get the length of drill), then the 1/8 to break through the top
i was thinking the same thing. Then I though about cutting the form into quarters and shimming between them. After forming, remove the shims and it should fall out. Although it would be really hard to hide the parting lines.
but then again, I like Adam said it isn't going to be seen so its appearance isn't a big deal.
That thing is so damn cool! I love the lever system for the frame, reminds me of the professionally made formers we used when I worked at Storyland Studios.
They've done studies about Adam's vacuum forming machine y'know. 60% of the time it works, everytime.
i get the reference :3...
it's the anchorman right? 😗
+Ace Sul I gotta be honest, that smells like pure gasoline.
Ace Sul it be 99% if he knew what he was doing
I am late to this 2016 party, but I wanted to suggest spraying a mold release over the buck. Straight silicon spray might work fine. Also, some 40 years ago, I learned about pattern making for casting cast iron parts. For that you build in a slight taper into the side walls of the pattern to help with this mold-release process. (Look at anything cast iron and you won't find any parallel surfaces unless the were machined in after the casting process.) I think the compressed air idea mentioned below might work well depending on how stretchy the ABS is. If nothing else, that should automatically push the buck out of the ABS.
if yo uh put a little hole to allow air to enter as you remove the mold would that ruin the vacuuming? because if it doesn't it would really help remove the form from the mold.
+Austin Jacob exactly what I was thinking. drill a hole, and plug it with a dowel while vaccuforming, and then remove the dowel and some compressed air might help release it. disclaimer- I've done exactly 0 vaccuforming but enjoy the demonstration.
+Derek Place When ive done it we drilled holes through the form as it helps remove the air especially if you have cavity's and weird shapes but you do end up with little dint's on the finished piece.
I don't really think the reason that the mold didn't want to come off of the buck had to do with the air flow. I think there's just a lot of friction between two items that are perfectly shaped around each other.
+Chance Price probably true.
+Austin Jacob This is often done in industrial applications of this technique where the mould has _tiny_ holes all the way through, vertically, to allow for easy de-moulding. A draft angle of 7° is also very common and good rule of thumb for designing moulds. But if you don't get the parameters right these holes might show up as dimples in your form.
These videos are so much better than the other guys uncomfortable interviews
A little talcum powder on your buck will work like magic to release it from the plastic
does it inbed in the plastic? Like say I want a transparent material. Would it leave artifacts in the finish?
I worked in a factory using and fixing industrial vacuum formers, and we'd use a system at the very least twice that size for an item that deep to make sure the plastic formed smoothly and evenly.
@5:30 approximately "i need a tighter" tighter what!?
+reddevved Most likely a tighter frame.
+reddevved seal or frame.
+reddevved oh its obvious he just needs a tighter
+reddevved that wood frame he put around the outside of the ABS after pulling the ABS down.
DanielRichards644 you mean seal?
Very useful machine. I designed my own mini vacuum forming plate on my channel. I've made custom battery holders, dental retainers, and much more.
After trimming off the overhang, I find injecting compressed air between the buck and the part usually pops the part loose. For fine detail we often drill small holes in the edges and corners as suggested above and it makes a big difference. You can also inject air through these holes to help loosen the part.
If I have one hero and person I strive to be it would be Adam Savage.
Thanks so much for this fantastic content, I can still have my daily dose of Adam even though Mythbusters has finished. Adam, I owe you a huge thank you, I started watching mythbusters when i was 7 and its because of that i started to get into engineering, I am now 16 and have started college and am truly thankful for your influence on my life! Best of Luck
Had one of these at school and college and it was sick!!
"This is a really touchy art form and I probably won't get it on the 1st try" *gets it in the 1st try*
That's because he's a baos.
Cool I need one ! Maybe add vacuum holes in the buck to get more detail, create mold with 1/2 degree draft to ease removal
excellent you can make props and toast at the same time :-)
I grew up around vacuum forming.... Use some crisco on the mold before pulling. Also, make sure you have a slight draft angle on the mold to ease release.
hey Adam, stick air blower between plug and side..... will separate super easy. Also if you drill all the way through so the top center has a vacuum port in one of the valleys, that can later be used to split with air as well
savage
You cant have right angles when you vacuum form. That's why it was so difficult to get out.
If it doesn't work, get a bigger hammer.
Built the exact same machine myself. Mine is 2X4 however. Have been using it constantly!
This video is constant "That's what she said" moments with all the warm buck pulling.
And fuse blowing.
+Firewisplet r/im14andthisisfunny
If you can't add a slight draft to the form, you can put a/some tiny hole(s) through it so that you can inject compressed air behind it. It will pop right off.
man that thing totally SUCKS !! and in a good way! I wonder how many household vacuum cleaners kids have ruined trying to make tiny at home Vacuum formers.
+Nik Butler For having built with my friends, if you built the table itself right, you can't really blow the vacuum cleaner unless you over estimate the vacuum and let it on for like a minute when the plastic isn't pulling. The real problem you encounter is that you don't get a good pull. In the end, we used a commercial grade shop vac to do it.
+Nik Butler Should have seen the look on my face when I saw James Burton use a plain old household Dyson vacuum & space heaters in a wood "oven" lined with foil for his larger former. I was like, "What the Hell? That is the most brilliant cheap solution I've ever seen!" Thing totally works great too!
Volvary I used a 1980s wet vac and spliced it so it pulled from all 4 sides.. Amazing job it did....
Drilling holes in the buck will also help it mould better and u shouldn't need that frame to push it down if u do it right
That was awesome to watch.
Hi Adam, why you didn't turn on the vacuum pump before turning on the heating elements?? Then, turn it off because of the fuses (I think the containers keep the vacuum) and then proceed as you did. As far as it looks to me, this way you could get a higher vacuum force at the beggining, which would help to reproduce the original shape even better.
Thanks for sharing with us ;)
You should've use an air compressor to force compressed air between the mould and the cast, I believe that would help it separate better
Nice machine for kitchen sink enterprise:o) Putting slight bevel on the side will help to release the buck along with some strategically place air holes.
Looks like a HobbyVac former. I have the same one only I built mine 2'x6' Great vid. oh and mine has been in a similar corner for the past 5 years!!!!
I made a little clock using one of these, they're very cool in my opinion.
It would be actually cool, if you could upload a building plan (and components) for that nice machine. I want to build such a beauty too!
Maybe put some screws half way in the bottom wood/mold part after you mold the plastic around so you have something to grave onto to pull it out. (So you don't have to cut a slit)
I wonder if adding a dowel rod in the form to create an air path would work to allow air to be blown in between the mold and the form to blow off the mold would work.
It's easier for vaccum forming to do the mold in a negative shape rather than a positive shape. Easier to demold and it's allow to avoid folds in the angle.
you could use compressed air to separate the plastic from the buck , I would guess the mdf buck texture was causing the plastic to stick a payer of rattle can paint would make the buck smooth enough to help & could also be used as a barrier for cooking spray /mould release
1st rule of vacuum forming. Never form something that curves inwards. It's impossible to remove without destroying the casting. Ideally have your casting get thinner as it gets taller. It'll be much easier to remove
To get the mold out u can use air. Compressor hose spray out the sides and will release wo cutting.
The one time that sticks out I remember Adam using one of these was the Bottle Bash episode of Mythbusters, and the 'brain' mold he made.
Adam, why didn't you blow air in between the abs mold and the wood mold to pop it out? I think it would have worked perfect.
such energy for an old man
You need an air hole that leads to a gallery at the top of the part. You could just put the air nossle up to it and blow the finished piece off the mold
Is this something you built yourself? It reminds me of some plans I've been looking at ordering.
"I am, today, standing in front of a piece of equipment that you might have seen, if you've watched our videos sitting in the corner of my shop, gathering dust and covered with crap ..."
"A dangling participle?"
"A dangling participle..."
I’ve seen people use bucks and molds but I’ve never seen both used. Have you ever heard of someone sandwich ing the material between a buck and a mold? Also, is warming the buck up a good idea?
Ey! That looks amazing!
Adam if the circut breaker is poping from running all of the heating elements you have an electrical issue which should be addressed as soon as possible by a professional electrician or you may have a fire. electrical fires can go undetected for a lengthy period of time. I suspect that it is an amperage issue and if it isn't amperage issue you may burn your busbar where that circuit breaker is contained.
I think if you shoot air between the buck and plastic it will release Easier but that was awesome
Wouldn't hurt to apply a little mold release either on the underside of the plastic or on the item you trying to mold. Dish soap, Murphy's oil, PAM, etc. if you don't have PVA mold release.
Hey Adam just a thought for you but did you consider using a combination of a molded release on your buck and use some compressed air before you remove it from the vac machine that way you pop the form off the buck?
the plastic factory is always fun
Pretty cool
Was that the one we saw you get a glove stuck in when you lowered the plastic on a mythbusters episode?
Sir I m going to build 2×3 platen for signage letters, can you please help me about vacuum pump? Which pump is good and how many litters tank I need for my project?
Thanks in advance.
I would murder for that milling machine in the background. Where is this shop? I'm asking for a friend.
the one who edited this is a fucking joker. love it
Is Adam whistling 'Christine and the Queens' at the end ?
...searching for a design to be able to build one of those vacu-formers. Adam, if you ever read posts on older, if you have a plan for this machine there are many folks who wold love to build one for their own shops.
:-)
holy shit this guy has industrial machines
So cool.
Could you have blown air in between the plastic and the mold to get it off without cutting it?
You should make your form of three parts. After forming you can remove a middle part and then you can easy remove other two parts.
Adam...that's well savage
Adam, did you build this vacuum forming machine or did you purchase it assembled ?
Which buck are you talking about? There are two in the frame.
I didn't see any air holes in your form. Might even make getting it off the form easier
Just like that, the body parts for the Citroen Mehari were made from ABS plastic. In the case of the large body parts, the machine and the vacuum must be very large. Otherwise, the body of the Mehari is very insensitive and does not have to be painted because the plastic panels were already colored. Only with the approval in road traffic there were problems, because the authorities considered the ABS plastic to be flammable and in Germany the Mehari could not be officially sold.
He's like a mad scientist
I have a question. I know you knowledgeable people in here can help me. Would this be the type of machine to make a mold than use the mold you make with this machine and then use the mold in a vacuum to lay carbon fiber over it? Hopefully this makes sense lol thanks for your help guys
Thanks for sharing. I suggest you use the vacuum system to free the molding. Turn the mold upside down, fix the wooden pattern a beam and let the vacuum system pull it off ABS molding
Can you drill a hole straight through your Buck and use your air compressor to blow and separate the mold?
Hey Adam, you guys do a lot of cool stuff and I think I'd be able to help with many projects but you guys always have a couple "holes" in your experiments.
One that comes to mind, and this is one I remember off the top of my head because I used to work with Kenny at Auto Sound Specialists, where you had the system installed.
When you "busted" the myth about a gun going off in the trunk from too much bass, you placed to gun sideways in the trunk. Bass from the speakers goes from to back to front so in order for the bass to move the trigger, the trigger would need to be running parallel with the sound waves. Also, I think you should have borrowed a bigger stereo for the project. I'm not saying it would work but that test didnt really prove anything.
It would be like seeing if bass pressure could rip a sheet of paper and then putting the paper perpenficilar to the sub and not parallel in front of it.
If you are only going to make one piece at a time, you can wait for the plastic to cool down a bit, and use the vacuum system, reversing it to inject some air and detach the piece from the mold.
Or just use mold release prior to heating and pushing the hot plastic down on the object. Hell, you can even spray a little PAM on the plastic as it begins to heat up and bow prior to bring it down on the object below.
That was a really bad forming attempt. The tool is too high and the tool doesnt have any vacuumholes in the inner radius' for the vacuum to pull down to plastic over the tool. And as other has said, if you blow compressed air through the tool the plastic part will pop off instantly if you dont have major backdrafts on it :)
Hello! Welcome to the Vacuum Forming Machine channel.
+MiniMackeroni
ello, velcome 2 tha vackume forrming matchine channel
Nice video
I was thinking of making a vacuum former out of a altered toaster, some steel and a Hoover, and rubber to seal things together, would this work?