Check the float level and the tab that pushes in the float needle. If it is janky, bent or has a dent or grooves in it, it will cause erratic float levels. That would explain it going lean at idle or going too rich. I recently had the same issue, took forever to figure out. It was a dent in the tab on the floats... caused the float to either turn off to late or sometimes too early.
There’s a tiny o-ring that seals around the idle mixture screw. I imagine it’s in the same condition as the one that was on the needle and seat valve. A new one made a difference on my 93 dr350s.
Just a thought... try fill your fuel bottle completely and open the top cap so your fuel supply has enough pressure to overcome the surface tension of the small orifices it has to flow through, without the closed bottle creating a vacuum.
Jake........paracord down the spark plug hole will hold the crank still! And check ur TDC again see if that flywheel is the wrong size because that key should have sheared completely and it looked loose
My money’s on the CDI or the coil, more likely the former. I experienced an issue like this on a go-kart when I worked as a small engine tech. I spent so much time on the coil thinking that was the issue. I was checking air gaps, checking pickup surfaces - nothing worked. Finally went back in the wiring and found the CDI and checked the power as the kart ran. Turned out the CDI would get hot and short out and cut the signal to the coil, killing spark. Sounded and acted just like this…
To hold round objects such as a flywheel when the strap wrench doesn't work, you can use the long strap of a ratchet strap. Remove it from the ratchet, wrap the entire soft end around the flywheel, and hook the other end to the frame. Rotate the flywheel until the strap tightens. Then you can torque the nut as needed with both hands.
Hey Jake nice too see you read the comments.you need to get your mogo back! The old jake wouldn't give up on that honda cl250.what a lovely bike that is.far to rare and good to break.im sure you can get that engine running again
Maybe a fouled plug, too much air getting into the carb, air/fuel screw needs adjusting, cdi box, magneto, coil…. The list goes on and on baby. 😆 I have confidence that y’all will finger it out. 😂 Yes, viewing from Georgia
As for trying to unstick the Honda engine instead of beating it with a block of wood, make a thick steel plate with holes that match the head bolts. Then put a hole on the middle and if you have a welder weld a nut over the center hole to make a pressing tool. Bolt it over the piston using the head bolts. Then I usually heat the cylinder with a torch with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut and start tightening the press bolt. If it’s still not moving you can tap on the press bolt while turning it with pressure on the flywheel nut. You will probably need a pad to put between the press bolt and the top of the piston if you are trying to save the piston.
Great idea!! Also less fatiguing and you can better "feel" your progress. It also "holds" every step you take. You can even apply some pressure and if it doesn't move, leave that pressure on it while it soaks some more. I have the feeling Jake and Jennie will get that engine, at least, moving again.
One more thought. A lean idle is an unstable idle. A common mistake/problem is running a motorcycle without an air filter and/or with a more free flowing exhaust, and not rejetting the carb to be richer. Even just changing from an airbox type filter to a more free flowing filter can lean out the idle and cause problems. You need a larger pilot jet, and possibly main jet too. Vettepilot
I'm so glad y'all are back! I like the "bouncing". I have multiple projects at home. Finishing one at a time is not an option for the same reasons as you. I'll be retiring pretty soon, and maybe I'll get caught up 😎
"... I'll be retiring pretty soon, and maybe I'll get caught up". Haha! You keep telling yourself that. (From someone who retired a couple years ago). 🙂
The way it cut off seems that it may be an electronic problem. If the problem doesn't appear with the engine cold and appears after the engine is running for a while may be the CDI box or the ignition coil. The longer a bad electronic component is running, the hotter it gets until it fails. Electronic components usually fail in two forms: or it's totally dead and don't work, or it starts to fail after it gets hot because an internal short. The pick-up sensors are unlikely because they are a 'passive' electronic component. They just transform magnetic induction into millivolts. Keep the good work. You will get to the bottom of this.
Regarding the fog, I read in a book: What we assume to be 'normal conscious' is comparatively rare, it's like a light in the refrigerator: when you look in, there you are ON but what's happening when you don't look in? And as far as the jumping around I don't mind it much but I do like to see the finished project eventually. Y'alls best work was the travel trailer I think.
Theory: If there's two pickups, maybe the the cdi signals what pickup to use for when the engine increases RPMs for an advanced timing. If I had to guess, the timing is variable and this may explain why it randomly revs and backfires. Maybe something is messing with the timing.
1. You need to check cam timing and valve clearance again now that the flywheel should be indicating true TDC. 2. I think you have an ignition problem. Possibly a cold solder joint in the CDI causing a misfire or timing changes. You need to try a new spark plug too. (Always good to try...) 3. When everything is RIGHT, they WILL run! Good luck! Vettepilot
Sounds like fuel starvation, especially when it pops at the end - flaot height. When you kick it and rev it, it forces more fuel, but when it idles it doesn't have that suction.
So I like the jumping around between projects because that is exactly how it goes here on our homestead! Also, you are on to something regarding the "internal processor." I am surprised every time I look in a mirror... not what I was expecting somehow.
When I was a kid the bike shops and toy stores sold a headlight kit that worked off a generator that ran off the front wheel. It pressed against the wheel to make it spin.
You should check for an air leak through the carburetor slide. I had to replace my DR 350 TM33 carb due to wear. Also there is an oring around the idle mix screw
RE:the KX65: Go ahead and try your second ignition coil idea, but it is not going to work. The impedance (it is an electronics thing) is way too high to drive a low impedance load like lighting. You could try to effectively lower the impedance with a step-down transformer. Since what comes out of the coil is a series of pulses, that ought to get through a transformer. DC wouldn't. Even if you get the impedance and voltage where they need to be, there may not be enough power for incandescent lights or even LEDs. Could be; we don't know the specs. If that does work, you'd want some sort of voltage regulation to keep the voltage going to your lights from varying wildly with engine speed. Cars (and, I assume, motorcycles) do this by modulating the field winding in a generator/alternator, which will not be an option with your ignition coil unless you get creative with the kill wire. Lawn mowers with generators eschew the electrical regulation and just count on running at a set speed, unlike a motorcycle. They also use a purpose-made stator with a much lower impedance than an ignition coil. As nifty an idea as this is, you might be better served by just putting a battery in there and charging it externally between uses. LEDs would make a huge difference in run time for a given battery. The other day, we actually saw some glow from the bulb when you killed the engine by putting the bulb in parallel with the spark plug. So there is some energy there. Most of the voltage was dropped in the impedance of the coil, though, which is actually good, because if it weren't, you would have blown the bulb with the thousands of volts (or however much it is) that are needed to fire a spark plug. Of course, that is also why the engine died when you did that. The same thing will happen with your second coil, it just won't kill the engine. You wouldn't want an ignition coil to have a low impedance, anyway, in its intended role, even if it were doable, because once the spark is struck, the plug is nearly a short circuit. The high impedance limits the current and protects the coil, at least somewhat, from burning out. It is also an artifact of the large number of turns needed to generate the high voltage.
Also check for small cracks in the plug wires. I heard an episode of car talk once where there was a similar issue and there were small cracks in the wires that expanded when they warmed up causing intermittent issues ...food for thought??
I had a similar experience on a wheeler I was working on. Ended up being a coil that was cracked at the plug wire. Intermittent shorting to the frame. Acted like a carburetor issue. Run the thing with the lights off and look for the electricity leaking somewhere when the motor cuts out.
It sounded great at 1st. Check the timing AGAIN fella….! Has it moved again because it’s not the right size or the crank has worn a bit? Clue: locktite on the threads? The flywheel went on way too easy for my money…..? The other clue was the sheared woodruff key: why did it shear? Cdi’s either work or don’t work in my experience. I’d be checking the spark. I had an Honda xr350 that when it got warm , the bike would cut out…Solution: Ignition coil. Swap one off another bike they’ll all work to quickly rule IN or rule OUT the issue. Good luck sir 🫡
I have a mystery bike like this, a 1990 FJ1200. Replaced spark plugs and cables, new battery, cleaned the carbs a million times, new fuel filter, set the float height and checked fuel level, replaced carb diaphragms, new carb o-rings, no air leaks to be found, nothing makes a difference. It runs fine when i just start it up, then when it gets warmer the rpms go really high and wont go back down. idle is also erratic, either you set it too high so the revs go way up again automatically, or it dies. Its been standing for almost a year now.
The last time I got the exact same problem (running, and idling great when it was still cold, but then run terribly + some extra backfiring when the bike is already running for a couple minutes) i found out that it was actually the ignition coil that had already gone bad. maybe you should check that out and see if it was the same ignition coil problem just like mine :)
I'd say check your float needle adjustment and then put a little bit more gas in the IV bottle. To me it sounds fueling issue with the carb, not electronic.
I’m going with a float level problem, some bikes can be super sensitive to float level changes. I’d try adjusting it for both a higher and lower float than normal just for giggles see if there’s a big change.
I once had a pickup coil that was not screwed down properly give me the same issue since it moved to a good spot and backed out from time to time, also had bad connectors and once a bad cdi, all with the same result, still all electrical issues.
Only thing that's changed is heat it seems when bike warms up it sets somthing off. Possibly cracked coil pack, cdi box, somthing electric that doesn't like when getting warm.
What gets me is that the key was sheared. Why? Seems the engine has to come to an abrupt stop for the inertial force to be great enough for that to happen. I’ve seen it happen but usually when an engine locks up. Also when it dies there seems to be a mechanical clunk with it. So what could be dragging internally to cause idle movement then catching to stop the engine from spinning?? Is there something contacting the clutch basket where it shouldn’t?Maybe an idler gear has come loose or bearings are worn
Wouldn't it be easier to get one of those little portable scissor type bucket lifts that they use for warehouses just get the outdoor construction type variant maybe, does sound pretty useful though like a lot of heavy equipment.
does it only do that when it's warm? If so I'd be looking into checking stator field coil & ignition coil resistances both when cold and hot if the resistance values go out of range when warm you've found the problem could also check pickup coil resistances cold/hot. The old school method without a multimeter is just check spark color cold/hot anything other than sharp blue sparks & there's a problem. Also check over the CDI and stator plug connectors, and coil terminals if the insulator is split & wires are corroded it'd be fine-ish cold and get worse when warm.
Does that mean the old key that you pulled out of her, was def an aftermarket key? Cause it wasnt crescent shaped was it? Maybe check some of those burned wires, maybe something is shorting cause of those wires. I was totally expecting it to run great after the timing was fixed ha. But I agree that it is probably electrical also, cause if it was mechanical, it seems like it wouldnt just randomly change like that. Hope you get it figured out man. One thing you could maybe do, is while shes runnin, jiggle around, and move some wires, and see if you can narrow down a spot where if you move something it changes idle. Or look at the shop manual and start checking measurement with the multi-meter
I am betting a whole dollar the CDI is bad!!!! It works good for the first 10 seconds then maby gets hot. If you had a spare swap it out. Might just be the problem.
Pilot jet jake it’s got aftermarket exhaust on it the pilot jet and main jet need to be up one size . And now you got the timing key fixed your getting close . Also air leak in them carbs air common on them 350s I’m telling yah get a good carb rebuild kit and jet the carb up one sized or 2 on the main jet and the pilot jet one size that will make it back fire is lean condition . You have a tiny air leak in that carb
So after you replaced the Woodruff key,yiu didn't re time the cams.you changed the location of the timing mark in relation to the cams.need to put it back on tdc,and re time the cams.they will probably b a couple of teeth off.
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, the way it keeps changing from normal to high to low . Could also be ignition coil breaking down as it heats up then cuts out
Have you checked the part number on the flywheel to see if it's for a DR350? I bought a Kawasaki Prairie 360 ATV years ago and the previous owner messed up the original flywheel, put a Prairie 650 flywheel on it, ignition timing was off, It took me forever to figure that one out. He never told me about the flywheel when I bought it.
I don't remember if you checked the valve clearance on this bike. Is the slide on the carb sticking? make sure the Idle screw is actually holding it at idle speed.
Please fix the Honda TL250 engine. The worse state the more fun video. What made me following this channel was the Honda Trial 90 project 10 years ago!
just replace carburetor assembly. Have had similar results for similar issues. Saved a ton of time every time. could be air leak somewhere on low speed needs o ring, or anything carburetor to engine.
LOL camera girl. It’s so funny when you do those little things to keep Jake on track when he’s pondering.
Check the float level and the tab that pushes in the float needle. If it is janky, bent or has a dent or grooves in it, it will cause erratic float levels. That would explain it going lean at idle or going too rich. I recently had the same issue, took forever to figure out. It was a dent in the tab on the floats... caused the float to either turn off to late or sometimes too early.
This is accurate advice!
I like the bouncing around it’s how I work as well. Keeps me interested and time to think of solutions.
100% of carb problems are carb related 😊. Keep at it brother, you got this!
There’s a tiny o-ring that seals around the idle mixture screw. I imagine it’s in the same condition as the one that was on the needle and seat valve. A new one made a difference on my 93 dr350s.
THIS!!😊
Just a thought... try fill your fuel bottle completely and open the top cap so your fuel supply has enough pressure to overcome the surface tension of the small orifices it has to flow through, without the closed bottle creating a vacuum.
+1 if you want a Jennies Yard Update day once a week! Chicken updates? 🐔🐔
+1 if you want them hats already
@@DaxtonAnderson I’m just here for the dad jokes.
The excitement from both of you is contagious. Thank you for the great content. Cheers from Alberta Canada
Jake........paracord down the spark plug hole will hold the crank still! And check ur TDC again see if that flywheel is the wrong size because that key should have sheared completely and it looked loose
My money’s on the CDI or the coil, more likely the former. I experienced an issue like this on a go-kart when I worked as a small engine tech. I spent so much time on the coil thinking that was the issue. I was checking air gaps, checking pickup surfaces - nothing worked. Finally went back in the wiring and found the CDI and checked the power as the kart ran. Turned out the CDI would get hot and short out and cut the signal to the coil, killing spark. Sounded and acted just like this…
Jumping is fine, it's unavoidable. No parts no video.
Happy to watch whatever you upload. You as a family feel like my extended family.
👍✌️❤️
I am so cheering for you to hit that 350k mark
Sounds like you need an idiot light for the spark plug. It will help to diagnose spark cutout.❤
Only an idiot calls an "Indicator Light", an "Idiot Light".
To hold round objects such as a flywheel when the strap wrench doesn't work, you can use the long strap of a ratchet strap. Remove it from the ratchet, wrap the entire soft end around the flywheel, and hook the other end to the frame. Rotate the flywheel until the strap tightens. Then you can torque the nut as needed with both hands.
What I am processing right now, you are not undoing the bolts.
On reinstall did you look at the TDC and the Mark in the hole?
Hey Jake nice too see you read the comments.you need to get your mogo back! The old jake wouldn't give up on that honda cl250.what a lovely bike that is.far to rare and good to break.im sure you can get that engine running again
You will get it Jake. I have full trust in you and your abilities. Camera girl is the best, keeps you on track. lol
Outstanding job on the bike man,three kicks 💪
For what it's worth I like the bouncing around.
Me too... Squirrel!!!
I can relate with the many projects due to parts weather and work,you keep m going accordingly
I don’t particularly like moving project to project, but if that is how you can continue to create consistent content I am all about it.
Oh fella!!! This is a great mystery. We are on the edge of our seats awaiting the discovery of the weak link.
Maybe a fouled plug, too much air getting into the carb, air/fuel screw needs adjusting, cdi box, magneto, coil…. The list goes on and on baby. 😆
I have confidence that y’all will finger it out. 😂
Yes, viewing from Georgia
As for trying to unstick the Honda engine instead of beating it with a block of wood, make a thick steel plate with holes that match the head bolts. Then put a hole on the middle and if you have a welder weld a nut over the center hole to make a pressing tool. Bolt it over the piston using the head bolts. Then I usually heat the cylinder with a torch with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut and start tightening the press bolt. If it’s still not moving you can tap on the press bolt while turning it with pressure on the flywheel nut. You will probably need a pad to put between the press bolt and the top of the piston if you are trying to save the piston.
Great idea!! Also less fatiguing and you can better "feel" your progress. It also "holds" every step you take. You can even apply some pressure and if it doesn't move, leave that pressure on it while it soaks some more. I have the feeling Jake and Jennie will get that engine, at least, moving again.
One more thought. A lean idle is an unstable idle. A common mistake/problem is running a motorcycle without an air filter and/or with a more free flowing exhaust, and not rejetting the carb to be richer. Even just changing from an airbox type filter to a more free flowing filter can lean out the idle and cause problems. You need a larger pilot jet, and possibly main jet too.
Vettepilot
I'm so glad y'all are back! I like the "bouncing". I have multiple projects at home. Finishing one at a time is not an option for the same reasons as you. I'll be retiring pretty soon, and maybe I'll get caught up 😎
"... I'll be retiring pretty soon, and maybe I'll get caught up". Haha! You keep telling yourself that. (From someone who retired a couple years ago). 🙂
Your getting way out there with the conversation
Yep. Camera Girl needs to keep Jake away from those wild mushrooms...
Old Timer is the perfect name for the IV it leaks like an old timers bladder.
You will get it champ we believe in you and Willy just started it off a Little Rocky 😂
The way it cut off seems that it may be an electronic problem.
If the problem doesn't appear with the engine cold and appears after the engine is running for a while may be the CDI box or the ignition coil.
The longer a bad electronic component is running, the hotter it gets until it fails.
Electronic components usually fail in two forms: or it's totally dead and don't work, or it starts to fail after it gets hot because an internal short.
The pick-up sensors are unlikely because they are a 'passive' electronic component. They just transform magnetic induction into millivolts.
Keep the good work. You will get to the bottom of this.
Regarding the fog, I read in a book: What we assume to be 'normal conscious' is comparatively rare, it's like a light in the refrigerator: when you look in, there you are ON but what's happening when you don't look in?
And as far as the jumping around I don't mind it much but I do like to see the finished project eventually. Y'alls best work was the travel trailer I think.
I love this carburetor channel.
Willy starting to rack up the Bills! 😂😂
it’s a blusterus day! ❤
Theory: If there's two pickups, maybe the the cdi signals what pickup to use for when the engine increases RPMs for an advanced timing. If I had to guess, the timing is variable and this may explain why it randomly revs and backfires. Maybe something is messing with the timing.
That's what I was thinking. Pickups can act fine when cold, but once warmed up, they can crap out happened to me with my 86 ninja 1000
Take a day off and have a happy thanksgiving!
I think the ideal Christmas gift would be a full tool set up on wheels. No more back and forth searching for tools every tool in its place.
also would help the floor tool storage, was thinking he should some kind tool storage bench on the wall where his toolbox sits on the floor
I like the jumping! Cheers
1. You need to check cam timing and valve clearance again now that the flywheel should be indicating true TDC.
2. I think you have an ignition problem. Possibly a cold solder joint in the CDI causing a misfire or timing changes. You need to try a new spark plug too. (Always good to try...)
3. When everything is RIGHT, they WILL run!
Good luck!
Vettepilot
get one of those light bulb spark testers and start it so you can tell if it loses spark.
Sounds like fuel starvation, especially when it pops at the end - flaot height. When you kick it and rev it, it forces more fuel, but when it idles it doesn't have that suction.
So I like the jumping around between projects because that is exactly how it goes here on our homestead! Also, you are on to something regarding the "internal processor." I am surprised every time I look in a mirror... not what I was expecting somehow.
Bouncing around is good. Especially when you're waiting on parts and stuff.
When I was a kid the bike shops and toy stores sold a headlight kit that worked off a generator that ran off the front wheel. It pressed against the wheel to make it spin.
You're a much more patient man then I am.
You should check for an air leak through the carburetor slide. I had to replace my DR 350 TM33 carb due to wear. Also there is an oring around the idle mix screw
RE:the KX65: Go ahead and try your second ignition coil idea, but it is not going to work. The impedance (it is an electronics thing) is way too high to drive a low impedance load like lighting. You could try to effectively lower the impedance with a step-down transformer. Since what comes out of the coil is a series of pulses, that ought to get through a transformer. DC wouldn't. Even if you get the impedance and voltage where they need to be, there may not be enough power for incandescent lights or even LEDs. Could be; we don't know the specs. If that does work, you'd want some sort of voltage regulation to keep the voltage going to your lights from varying wildly with engine speed. Cars (and, I assume, motorcycles) do this by modulating the field winding in a generator/alternator, which will not be an option with your ignition coil unless you get creative with the kill wire. Lawn mowers with generators eschew the electrical regulation and just count on running at a set speed, unlike a motorcycle. They also use a purpose-made stator with a much lower impedance than an ignition coil.
As nifty an idea as this is, you might be better served by just putting a battery in there and charging it externally between uses. LEDs would make a huge difference in run time for a given battery.
The other day, we actually saw some glow from the bulb when you killed the engine by putting the bulb in parallel with the spark plug. So there is some energy there. Most of the voltage was dropped in the impedance of the coil, though, which is actually good, because if it weren't, you would have blown the bulb with the thousands of volts (or however much it is) that are needed to fire a spark plug. Of course, that is also why the engine died when you did that. The same thing will happen with your second coil, it just won't kill the engine.
You wouldn't want an ignition coil to have a low impedance, anyway, in its intended role, even if it were doable, because once the spark is struck, the plug is nearly a short circuit. The high impedance limits the current and protects the coil, at least somewhat, from burning out. It is also an artifact of the large number of turns needed to generate the high voltage.
definitely sounds better, maybe your leaky IV is letting occasional air into the line???
Also check for small cracks in the plug wires. I heard an episode of car talk once where there was a similar issue and there were small cracks in the wires that expanded when they warmed up causing intermittent issues ...food for thought??
Plug and give cut down plug wire to give fresh new connection. 2 vintage did it.
I had a similar experience on a wheeler I was working on. Ended up being a coil that was cracked at the plug wire. Intermittent shorting to the frame. Acted like a carburetor issue. Run the thing with the lights off and look for the electricity leaking somewhere when the motor cuts out.
most likely CDI or coil probably not both
It sounded great at 1st. Check the timing AGAIN fella….! Has it moved again because it’s not the right size or the crank has worn a bit? Clue: locktite on the threads? The flywheel went on way too easy for my money…..?
The other clue was the sheared woodruff key: why did it shear?
Cdi’s either work or don’t work in my experience. I’d be checking the spark. I had an Honda xr350 that when it got warm , the bike would cut out…Solution: Ignition coil. Swap one off another bike they’ll all work to quickly rule IN or rule OUT the issue. Good luck sir 🫡
Those earlier CDI boxes were prone to exactly what you're experiencing. The newer ones are all around heavier made. Everything else sounds perfect.
There's a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all the little orings in the carb. Its going lean.
I have a mystery bike like this, a 1990 FJ1200.
Replaced spark plugs and cables, new battery, cleaned the carbs a million times, new fuel filter, set the float height and checked fuel level, replaced carb diaphragms, new carb o-rings, no air leaks to be found, nothing makes a difference. It runs fine when i just start it up, then when it gets warmer the rpms go really high and wont go back down.
idle is also erratic, either you set it too high so the revs go way up again automatically, or it dies.
Its been standing for almost a year now.
This would about 99% sure be a vacuum leak--> somewhere.
The last time I got the exact same problem (running, and idling great when it was still cold, but then run terribly + some extra backfiring when the bike is already running for a couple minutes) i found out that it was actually the ignition coil that had already gone bad. maybe you should check that out and see if it was the same ignition coil problem just like mine :)
I would have used fine lapping compound between the flywheel and crank to polish it to a really good fit before putting it together.
Make sure that the IV don't make a vacuum in the bottle also.
I'd say check your float needle adjustment and then put a little bit more gas in the IV bottle. To me it sounds fueling issue with the carb, not electronic.
The bouncing around is fine. That is how most machines work.
I had a vacuum slide hanging up on a CV carb that made it act like that. Ya might want to check that your CV isn't sticking.
Just a thought.
Happy thanksgiving….. the bucket truck will make for an interesting video 🤔.
I’m going with a float level problem, some bikes can be super sensitive to float level changes. I’d try adjusting it for both a higher and lower float than normal just for giggles see if there’s a big change.
I once had a pickup coil that was not screwed down properly give me the same issue since it moved to a good spot and backed out from time to time, also had bad connectors and once a bad cdi, all with the same result, still all electrical issues.
Coil warms up, bike idles higher, coil gets hot and shorts out, bike stalls. That’s my guess. If not maybe the CDI.
Try a brand new plug and check the wire is connecting to the inside of the boot screw tightly.
Only thing that's changed is heat it seems when bike warms up it sets somthing off. Possibly cracked coil pack, cdi box, somthing electric that doesn't like when getting warm.
Jake, although you are the most ADHD Tigger i have ever seen, we still really enjoy the content.
What gets me is that the key was sheared. Why? Seems the engine has to come to an abrupt stop for the inertial force to be great enough for that to happen. I’ve seen it happen but usually when an engine locks up. Also when it dies there seems to be a mechanical clunk with it. So what could be dragging internally to cause idle movement then catching to stop the engine from spinning??
Is there something contacting the clutch basket where it shouldn’t?Maybe an idler gear has come loose or bearings are worn
Maybe the throttle cable may be holding the idle. As soon as you reved it, the cable maybe have slid down farther.
Honestly I would consider changing the plug and plug boot. Almost like when the plug gets warm it drops fire
Wouldn't it be easier to get one of those little portable scissor type bucket lifts that they use for warehouses just get the outdoor construction type variant maybe, does sound pretty useful though like a lot of heavy equipment.
Did you redo the timing now the flywheel is in the correct spot?
does it only do that when it's warm? If so I'd be looking into checking stator field coil & ignition coil resistances both when cold and hot if the resistance values go out of range when warm you've found the problem could also check pickup coil resistances cold/hot.
The old school method without a multimeter is just check spark color cold/hot anything other than sharp blue sparks & there's a problem.
Also check over the CDI and stator plug connectors, and coil terminals if the insulator is split & wires are corroded it'd be fine-ish cold and get worse when warm.
I hope you find the problem, my xr200r does the same thing, I ended throwing a new carb in it and gave up
Yes Camera girl. One project to completion as much as possible. I would love to see something get done and then move on.
Does that mean the old key that you pulled out of her, was def an aftermarket key? Cause it wasnt crescent shaped was it? Maybe check some of those burned wires, maybe something is shorting cause of those wires. I was totally expecting it to run great after the timing was fixed ha. But I agree that it is probably electrical also, cause if it was mechanical, it seems like it wouldnt just randomly change like that. Hope you get it figured out man.
One thing you could maybe do, is while shes runnin, jiggle around, and move some wires, and see if you can narrow down a spot where if you move something it changes idle.
Or look at the shop manual and start checking measurement with the multi-meter
EVERY and ALL motorcycles need the full airbox setup to run ok. *unless* you change the needles etc. to balance the loss of vaccum
I am betting a whole dollar the CDI is bad!!!! It works good for the first 10 seconds then maby gets hot. If you had a spare swap it out. Might just be the problem.
i love the bouncing around! keep on bouncing
We are always in the Present.
Pilot jet jake it’s got aftermarket exhaust on it the pilot jet and main jet need to be up one size . And now you got the timing key fixed your getting close . Also air leak in them carbs air common on them 350s I’m telling yah get a good carb rebuild kit and jet the carb up one sized or 2 on the main jet and the pilot jet one size that will make it back fire is lean condition . You have a tiny air leak in that carb
So after you replaced the Woodruff key,yiu didn't re time the cams.you changed the location of the timing mark in relation to the cams.need to put it back on tdc,and re time the cams.they will probably b a couple of teeth off.
Almost wonder if it is the cdi like mine but different issue. Runs good till a component warms up then it cuts out.. like an old cars icm
What if you put a tachometer strobe on it? To see if the timing goes off when the bike cuts off.
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, the way it keeps changing from normal to high to low . Could also be ignition coil breaking down as it heats up then cuts out
Have you checked the part number on the flywheel to see if it's for a DR350? I bought a Kawasaki Prairie 360 ATV years ago and the previous owner messed up the original flywheel, put a Prairie 650 flywheel on it, ignition timing was off, It took me forever to figure that one out. He never told me about the flywheel when I bought it.
Try when it's running take your heat gun and heat up the coil and see if it fails when warm
Jake's latest book, 'Jen & The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance' on sale now. 🙂
I don't remember if you checked the valve clearance on this bike. Is the slide on the carb sticking? make sure the Idle screw is actually holding it at idle speed.
Locke, Descartes, Hume... we experience reality in the "moment" and with a 200msec lag
Please fix the Honda TL250 engine. The worse state the more fun video. What made me following this channel was the Honda Trial 90 project 10 years ago!
just replace carburetor assembly.
Have had similar results for similar issues. Saved a ton of time every time. could be air leak somewhere on low speed needs o ring, or anything carburetor to engine.
could it be one of the cooked wires shorting out when the engine warms up possibly?
Has old drippy got an air vent on top of the cap or bottle?
Idk, if the idle jet is too small that can cause erratic running
Yes, please film one project at a time. I don't remember them when they are out of sequence. It's confusing.
I agree with Camera Girl, stick with one project. Sounds like a carby issue.
yeah our brains process reality fractionally slower than real time, and how a person processes reality does not affect reality.
We all see the world through different eyes, sometimes you just have to eat some pineapple and appreciate it