Good luck with yours, I’m the earlier comment with the old 3 legged American 18” jointer so I’m exited to be putting it back to work as well as your buzz saw 😊
I have to agree that the tiny little bubble divots will do more good than harm as long as you have much more bearing area than divots. Nice putting the oil groove at the top ! I put a pressure oiling system on my century-old surface grinder ( not wanting to ever have to do the babbitt again ...since the babbitt was an excellent condition when I acquired the grinder). Your job on the band saw should last until you're an old man -- Very well done !
A very long time since I poured the bearings in my thirty six chevy truck... good memories and also you reminded me of many things I forgot. If memory serves me, the temp of the babbit is relative to that hardness of the bearing material. excellent video!!
@@lostjalopygarage8150 We filed to fit and did the best we could, this is over fifty some plus years ago.... I am seventy five now and did this when I was twelve
Well done bearing and the video was great too! Thank you. I've only poured one bearing on a 12 horse hit and miss engine about 15 years ago. But I'm needing to pour another one on a different engine now.
Great job ! Thank you so much for sharing, I have a early 3 legged 18” American Jointer which I’ve been holding off on replacing the Babbitt bearings on so now I’m feeling pretty confident after watching your video to go forward with it. I have a great deal of “Deal” up stairs in my barn which is quite wide I’ve been using for restoration work on my federal period farmhouse and I’m getting a little tired of scrub planing and following through with my Jack plane I’ve also modified to leave the witness tracks I’m looking for. But my 18” jointer will eliminate my need for the scrub plane. My only caveat is the square head so called finger remover as they are called....but I’ve heard that as long as you’re extra careful you should be fine. Or I’ll eventually change it over to a completely ball bearing Assembly but the new knife holder is extremely expensive. I appreciate you videos !
New subscriber my friend. What is the machine on your bench that looks like half of a lathe? Thank you for the explanation of the babbit bearings. It looks like it has a dividing wheel on it but I have never seen one stand alone.
I have several Babbitt bearings. I am intrigued by the paper and Scotch tape trick, however I am mystified as to why the paper is not charred and the Scotch tape does not melt I note the use of the stick to determine molten Babbitt temperature. It would seem the paper would not stand up to molten Babbitt of pouring temperature.
Keep an eye out for 20" Crescent Co. bandsaws, they're relatively light for their size and well thought out. The Cowan has good clearance but the base casting gets in the way
A fellow just reached out to me looking for a home for a 36" Witherby Rugg & Richardson bandsaw, probably 1920s located in Maine. Let me know if you're interested
For "accurate" centering, assuming you do this again in the future, use 4 pieces of solid wire, or welding/brazing rod of suitable diameter and length. 2 at the parting line, 2 at 90 degrees to. Set your shells on the mandrel, make sure youre all sealed up, pull the rods, pour your babbit, enjoy a beverage as it cools, lol. To separate those stubborn shells, loosen the clamp bolts a few turns, tap the bolt heads. Nice job!
THANKS FOR THIS INTERESTING DEMONSTRATION. IMHO: PERHAPS YOU COULD CAREFULLY "WRAP" A SPIRAL OF COTTON TWINE, AROUND THAT BARE SHAFT, OVER THE PAPER WRAP, ...SO AS TO SPIRAL DOWN TOWARD THE BOTTOM END, THEN, SPIRAL BAC UP TOWARD THE TOP, AND GLUE IT ONTO THE PAPER, SO THAT IT WILL CREATE A "CAST-IN-PLACE" OIL GROOVE. THAT WOULD SAVE EVEN MORE TIME, AFTER THE INITIAL INSPECTION AND CLEAN-UP.
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Very neat. Going to try this with my buzz saw mandrel. Wish me luck. Thanks for the details. Subscribed!
Best of luck! The key is to keep the shims pressed against the whole shaft. Cheers!
@@castironmachines Thx for the tip!
Good luck with yours, I’m the earlier comment with the old 3 legged American 18” jointer so I’m exited to be putting it back to work as well as your buzz saw 😊
I have to agree that the tiny little bubble divots will do more good than harm as long as you have much more bearing area than divots. Nice putting the oil groove at the top ! I put a pressure oiling system on my century-old surface grinder ( not wanting to ever have to do the babbitt again ...since the babbitt was an excellent condition when I acquired the grinder). Your job on the band saw should last until you're an old man -- Very well done !
Thank you, cheers!
A very long time since I poured the bearings in my thirty six chevy truck... good memories and also you reminded me of many things I forgot. If memory serves me, the temp of the babbit is relative to that hardness of the bearing material. excellent video!!
did they need to be machined after they were poured? I have a little 4 cylinder car engne with poured rod bearings I want to repour.
@@lostjalopygarage8150 We filed to fit and did the best we could, this is over fifty some plus years ago.... I am seventy five now and did this when I was twelve
Really enjoyed that, keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to future videos!!
Well done bearing and the video was great too! Thank you. I've only poured one bearing on a 12 horse hit and miss engine about 15 years ago. But I'm needing to pour another one on a different engine now.
Great job ! Thank you so much for sharing, I have a early 3 legged 18” American Jointer which I’ve been holding off on replacing the Babbitt bearings on so now I’m feeling pretty confident after watching your video to go forward with it. I have a great deal of “Deal” up stairs in my barn which is quite wide I’ve been using for restoration work on my federal period farmhouse and I’m getting a little tired of scrub planing and following through with my Jack plane I’ve also modified to leave the witness tracks I’m looking for. But my 18” jointer will eliminate my need for the scrub plane. My only caveat is the square head so called finger remover as they are called....but I’ve heard that as long as you’re extra
careful you should be fine. Or I’ll eventually change it over to a completely ball bearing Assembly but the new knife holder is extremely expensive. I appreciate you videos !
That was a perfect pour!! I hope mine can be half as good as yours.
Another great job. Love the videos. 😊
Thank you!
I remember my dad doing that for the bearings in his old Plymouth Truck and the sawbench he had.
New subscriber my friend. What is the machine on your bench that looks like half of a lathe? Thank you for the explanation of the babbit bearings. It looks like it has a dividing wheel on it but I have never seen one stand alone.
It's an old style Brown and Sharpe dividing head for gear cutting sitting on top of a small horizontal milling machine. Cheers!
I have several Babbitt bearings. I am intrigued by the paper and Scotch tape trick, however I am mystified as to why the paper is not charred and the Scotch tape does not melt I note the use of the stick to determine molten Babbitt temperature. It would seem the paper would not stand up to molten Babbitt of pouring temperature.
Very interesting!
No need to Machine after pouring?
I am very in need of an old band saw just like that one
Keep an eye out for 20" Crescent Co. bandsaws, they're relatively light for their size and well thought out. The Cowan has good clearance but the base casting gets in the way
A fellow just reached out to me looking for a home for a 36" Witherby Rugg & Richardson bandsaw, probably 1920s located in Maine. Let me know if you're interested
@@castironmachines I am very much interested!
For "accurate" centering, assuming you do this again in the future, use 4 pieces of solid wire, or welding/brazing rod of suitable diameter and length. 2 at the parting line, 2 at 90 degrees to. Set your shells on the mandrel, make sure youre all sealed up, pull the rods, pour your babbit, enjoy a beverage as it cools, lol. To separate those stubborn shells, loosen the clamp bolts a few turns, tap the bolt heads. Nice job!
Cheers!
Would not divots or small holes benift the retention of oil ?
They very well may do so, but are unintentional
Yeah, Special K is pretty killer. Red Berries is probably my favorite 👌
I'll have to check it out. Cheers
All of Kelloggs cereals have GMOs 😮.
Ok this is uncanny - I know that sand! We used it when I was teaching at Vans
I believe we have mutual friends
Do you have instagram? I have a brass casting project we may be able to collaborate on if you're interested
I would think that it would trap less air pouring the bearing from the end and not little holes on side
Keep that bucket of petrobond...
It's good for non-ferrous castings...
☹🇬🇧
THANKS FOR THIS INTERESTING DEMONSTRATION. IMHO: PERHAPS YOU COULD CAREFULLY "WRAP" A SPIRAL OF COTTON TWINE, AROUND THAT BARE SHAFT, OVER THE PAPER WRAP, ...SO AS TO SPIRAL DOWN TOWARD THE BOTTOM END, THEN, SPIRAL BAC UP TOWARD THE TOP, AND GLUE IT ONTO THE PAPER, SO THAT IT WILL CREATE A "CAST-IN-PLACE" OIL GROOVE. THAT WOULD SAVE EVEN MORE TIME, AFTER THE INITIAL INSPECTION AND CLEAN-UP.
GET YOURSELF A SMALL "DIGITAL LEVEL", THAT YOU CAN USE, TO PLUMB UP THAT "VERTICAL SHAFT, BEFORE THE POUR.