Whenever you give it another go, here's the main things you should consider: 1. Light wing loading. Try to keep it as light as possible. There's basically no downside to having a lighter plane, it'll just fly better all around. 2. Proper CG placement. Typically you want it to be at 25 - 33% of the wing chord from the leading edge. If your wing taper is symmetrical on both sides you can just measure the CG at the root. I like to stick closer to 25% especially on new planes because it'll be more stable that way. 3. Don't bother with the sled. Your plane should be light enough to just hand launch. Have someone hold it over their head as you throttle to 100%, then they should maybe take a couple steps forward and chuck it as hard as they can. They can angle it up slightly when they throw, maybe 10 degrees, but throwing it at too steep of an angle might cause it to stall. Be ready on the elevator in case in immediately wants to nose dive. I've built maybe a dozen planes and have found they checks usually give the best chance of success. However crashing is part of the process so don't beat yourself up if it doesn't go perfect. Good luck!
Check the C of G is at 1/3 of the chord of the wing. Basically going from the front of the wing you should be able to balance the aircraft 1/3 of the way to the back of the wing on 2 points each side of the fuselage. anything less than 100mm EDF isn't going to have the power to supply enough thrust and for such a large aircraft you will probably want to be running 6s minimum battery size, A better solution would be to use a pusher prop configuration. With the engine at the back it will help to put the CoG in the wing area .... Launches will be more frightening! Keep up the good work. Make mistake, learn lesson, Improve, make mistake, learn lesson, Improve ...V2 will be so much better!
If u get crossfire there is 0 to set up, it all just works with very little effort. I regularly fly 9 miles out on 500mw 150hz which is the range of my video, I never drop signal strength and never lose telemetry. Gps coordinates on the module, lost model find mode, battery back up diversity reciever. crossfire is worth it, elrs is tempting but it still needs some work to simplify and standardize itself.
@@sakarrc5001 Interesting, I am running the exact opposite setup - 868Mhz for the RC and 2.4Ghz for Airport Mavlink. I figured since 2.4Ghz has a higher baud rate it will make the Mavlink connection more snappy. Still have a problem of long parameter loading time tho. But I will definitely do a tutorial on how to make ELRS Airport work in the next video so stay tuned.
Hey Jacob, if you still want to make and fly Global Hawk, I suggest starting a new design with some firm numbers that will match other good flying RC models such as powered gliders. You would probably want your G.H. to match the weight and the wing loading of a similar-sized powered glider. Also, it would definitely help if your power system would be closer to a 1:1 ratio. How can you achieve this? By using the correct materials and correct building techniques - 3-6mm depron foam, thin wall carbon fiber tubes instead of aluminum. Do not use hot glue for construction, use proper foam glue and not in excessive amounts.
This is how both of my attempts to design and fly a 3D printed FPV plane have gone. I’ve been at it over a year and have attempts 3 and 4 nearing completion (went two different directions based on the first 2). Keep at it, learn from your mistakes and have some confidence that you will get there…. Eventually….
Your board was much better. 👍 Don't use an edf for such a plane. They are not efficient. Short flight time and less power. A pusher setup is the best for this kind of plane. Maybe a 40A esc would make more sense with a 64mm edf. And be careful with the skis, because they can nose down in the air and then lead to a crash. (More tension needed in front than back.) Edf plane with Liion batteries ruclips.net/video/XrIq7ZYHqGw/видео.htmlsi=bi5wIovDNRi0xQN- Pay attention on the voltage sag at the launching sequence ☝️ The thrust will be lower.
Build planes is an exercise in strength to weight ratio and power to drag. Just. Casual observation using hot melting glue vs. CA would free up some weight and using a carbon fiber tube for your main spar is probably going to be lighter than the aluminum. You could experiment with the motor placement to help get your CG in the right place without adding ballast to correct the CG.
The plane may have not been nose heavy, the thrust line looks to be above the centre of mass so when you full throttle hand launched it there was a pitch down tendency
Looks like there's more mass in the hot glue used then in the foam or balsa, leading to a fit and finish that's, a bit rough,... Best part of video was seeing how easy it was to run the laser cutter.
Great job, for further attempts drop the idea of sliding and just create a rubber powered catapult that you will be able to reuse for all your further projects
I want to help you, first put battery further back and remove tail balance weights, loose weight, remove skids and hand launch it only , throw it in a more upward direction because pusher plane want to nose down when starting off ,don't use hot glue and remake the wing with carbon fibre spar only no hot glue to heavy ok 😉 ❤ good luck
information 2:24 yes.! wing profiles do NOT scale down. a small, low-re# wing should have a Flat-bottomed profile that resembles the clark-y. or see the n-10, at airfoiltools. 2:27 a main wing is supposed to have a contiguous load-bearing main spar, located at thirty percent of chord (or mac). it is not clear whether the root of the main spar is optimally located. if not, then the entire spar structure is flawed. 2:51 is there a REASON that the mass of two servos is located aft-of the cg.?!? the Entire fuselage is contoured in ONLY One axis.! the shape of the nose is going to make unwanted Lift.! 3:20 a ducted fan exit opening should be CIRCULAR. not scalloped. the exit tube should have a certain amount of taper; eg., the area of the exit opening should be equal to the Effective swept area of the impeller. the source of thrust is vertically offset; meaning, the line of thrust passes above/does not intersect the point where the c-m is Supposed to be located. c-m is center of mass. if this thrust issue is not corrected, the rate of energy consumption will be increased, a bit; as a result of the need to use 'more' elevator up-trim. d
You built a small scale edf military type drone you mean. Did u try inav autolaunch? Edf has a slower wind up might not work as great but ive had good luck with auto launch with heavier pusher props. You can also just make a cheap pvc launch platform and bungee launch it. The car would work just fine with autolaunch but you really should go like 30+mph, you were going like 10 or 15 which is well below its stall speed im sure. I didnt watch your entire build so i cant comment as to any design issues. Just mainly watched all your flight attempts.
hi my bro i respect you cause you choose doing hard work to reach ur dream i can know ur feeling cause when ur model will fly u feel u sit in that model and flying with that and that feeling cant explain by any words. but i wanna told my some experience with making flying model : 1-we cant make any model with perfect 1/16 or 1/20 or any ...... cause we dont have any material so light and so strong when we wanna make wing with 2.5 metr long u cant only thing strong wing and leave weight or reverse u must have balance both of them 2-you use hot glue in winter try to fly ok but do you thing about hot summer when ur model wanna be so many hours under hot summer son? i havce that experience and that very bad feeling 3- im sure ur scale is perfect scale 1/16 but i offer to you use seperation wing method and assemble each wing to ur model in flying area maybe that way not work with aluminum spar but that a very better way transfer ur model to any area without knowing all neighbors about what are you doing 4- u dont need a long tube for ur exust after edf cause u kill so many exaust in that long tube and decrease ur edf power u cand move ur edf in final area in that tube and remove all tube cause u dont have jet engine with many fan blade 5- wben ur model have big wing u cant launch it with launcher i know cause that way launch involve so heavey stress to ur model and im sure wings with this size cant absorb that stress without damage, u cant use retract wheels to ur model to or any skate board tricks like u use in ur video cause u disturbing ur cenger of gravity and for fix it use so many weight and thats not good cause any 1 grams in these model are important. i thing every hand launching is harmfull for these model cause when u use ur energy move frome ur hand to ur fuselage and that moment ur long wing under heavy strees cause must move with fuselage and maybe broke or crack or not ur launch did not reach to flying speed and dive to groind and broke after that my idea for launching is this: use face wind or using a surface with 4 weels and sit ur plane on it whithout any screw or glur and use ur trust to move and when ur model reach flying speed seperate from that surface easily
Note that the motor placed behind the main wing (behind CoG) at the height it's at, causes a lot of down-moment (thrust) - Might want to add Throttle-to-Elevator Mixing to compensate for that downthrust
Hot glue is way too heavy, use CA instead. Keeping weight to a minimum is critical. Also, the wings chord is too small; the aircraft will be prone to tip stalls and spins unless you keep the airspeed very high at all times.
I would try to get the CG correct without the nuts and bolts in the back. Maybe shift the motor more toward the rear. You must also be careful to use only about 10% with the flaperons. I really want to see it fly also.
I don’t even know what to say. If you do every single thing in a way that’s not even remotely close to a workable solution, don’t expect flight. This is a valuable lesson on how not to build aircraft
Nice build, but how much does it weigh, and what’s your wing surface? This you can calculate the wing loading (g/dm2). You cannot just scale a larger plane down because of different Reynolds numbers. This has something to do with viscosity, your wing cord and whether your profile has laminar or turbulent flow. I think you will need a larger chord length, and especially, use less and lighter glue, only on contact surfaces. Since the engine is mounted on top of the rear fuselage, it will push the nose down. Maybe you can try to give it a couple of degrees down, because your wing is your balancing point. As someone else said, CG about 1/4 to 1/3 of the leading edge of the wing. Like your project, you have a new subscriber.
size your model (wing) based on the approximate desired stall speed. Vstall= sqrt((2^Weight)/(0.0023769*Swing*CLmax)) Vstall in ft/sec Weight in lb Swing=wing area in ft^2 CLmax - (for models) use 1.0 for most cases (on the web pull up a copy of NACA report 586 and note that your landing Reynolds number is going probably be between 80,000-100,000) Also, for models, you generally want the takeoff Thrust / Weight ratio to be greater than 0.5 . Take care and have fun!
Try to move weight around before adding more weight for balance. The ducted fan can be moved rearward, along with lots of the electronics and batteries.
13:30 thick trailing edges make More Drag than thin ones do.!!! across the Entire wingspan.! 16:49 control horns WRONG. ideally, a control surface should have the shape of a Parallelogram.
It seems to me that the high thrustline of the EDF could be causing problems . In your first attempts on the sled you can actually see the rear of the fuselage lift - pivoting around the front of the fuselage. it also is apparent in the dive after the attempt to launch using the car. I would advise adding a means of adjusting the thrust line down (Swiveling keel mount for example), aiming the EDF towards the CG point on the wing, to reduce the downwards pitching moment around the CG.Good luck with it and would like to hear more of your on board electronics.
I think the cowling is reducing the EDF thrust. Either move that EDF back or add a propulsive duct from it to the exit of the cowl? Are you using a 60A ESC as the manufacturer suggests?
instead of using counterweights why not shift the motor to the back. Also you should be able to hold the wing at 1/3 from the leading edge to find the center of gravity.
I have a 3018 I cut carbon fiber with, I really like how with your machine you don’t need to affix your pieces to be machined, I have a laser I have not yet put on mine but I think because the build plate is my y axis I’ll have to clamp down the workpiece as it will move forward and back which may shift things
Lots of good stuff and nice effort. Great ELRS and TX setup, for best results each should be on different frequency like 2.4/900. Some things that will make it better probably: Don't use flaperons, on anything but bush models, as they behave very CG dependent, especially with this small tail and especially on take off (Just put inner flaps if needed). Compass is not needed in Planes with Ardu, it will only mess AHRS. For the tools that you have, such weak, boxy and finicky fuselage is low par. The glue man, you saved 10x with balsa only to replace it with hot glue and useless paint, use UHUPor for glue and leave it laminated only. You missed the dihedral from the original design, which is essential for stability of planes with long, short chord wings. Nice wings, not bendy, but probably you have to increase torsion strength massively especially on the tips, with your spar design this was no fly moment. Also for long wings irregularities on leading edge disrupts the laminar flow and adds irregular torsion forces making your wings to twist and be uncontrollable. EDFs are questionable if you go for efficiency. Cheers keep it up.
I see you use Ardupilot Mission Planner on Android. Does it work fine for you? Does it support all the necessary features? Or you mostly use it for telemetry and route planning?
It works alright, but I just begin testing it, mostly used it for arming, calibrating and changing some parameters on the go. There are some other apps like Qgroundcontrol which seem to work much better tho
I flashed my FS-I6X radio with a magic piece of software called OpenI6X. I am honestly surprised how well it works on this old hardware. But it will require you to do some soldering.
I never understood why they built them with the engine they put in it. We have better technology today that vastly out shines this power plant. Basic diy builders are making better stuff. Hell, Iran and China are making the exact same thing. They are 30 years behind the average American person. What are we spending our freaking money on??
I suggest adding a small verticle rudder directly behind the thrust of the ducted fan that is set for a tiny offset to compensate for the turning from the fan inertia. Maybe also do a rail for takeoff, with a wheeled trolley that drops away.
Did you size the nozzle area based on the EDF manual? It looks a bit big, likely not generating much thrust. If you didn’t - check the manufacturers docs for the EDF and it should show what inlet and exit area range is good for the specific EDF and anything outside of that will struggle to generate the correct target thrust. I think it’s also a bit heavy. Covering in all that tape is a lot of weight and i would think to match the flight characteristics closely it should be much easier to hand launch which would require more thrust (like mentioned above) and much lower weight. You definitely won’t get much endurance out of an EDF, the off the shelf ones are not very power efficient.
1) do hand launch 2) your car was much slower than my hand launch toss speed . So in short try a fast running hand launch and use a more powerful battery .
13:25 abnormal servo location and control horn configuration. to the extent practical, the mass of wing-located servos should be located forward-of the thirty percent of chord line. the control horn should be located such that the pivot point is directly above the hinge line, when the control surface is at its neutral position.
It's so heavy,and the glue is very very heavy...just use epoxy...and take care of the CG ... You can deplace the battery to rear instead adding extra weight.... Hopefully you will fligh it soon....and by the way ,nice projects...keep going ...ur awesome ❤
Doesn’t have enough Power output converted into speed to create Lift. You should test in a wind tunnel, and add more propulsion = Thrust Creating Lift. Or use a Rocket Motor with a Short Burn that can Fire set by remote Switch!😉
From an aerodynamic viewpoint it has all the grace of a breeze block. Whilst you correctly chose a more basic Clarke Y section, the wing chord is way too narrow. You can't exact scale from 120 feet original. Wing skins far too thick. An electric ducted fan is the most inefficient form of propulsion known to man. You know that right?....The hot glue weighs more than those cute ribs...!!...Watch some construction videos of model glider wing construction is my advice. Oh, and take "Jet engine" off your thumbnail...most annoying....lol....🤔😳😮😏🇬🇧
I think to much hot glue it’s to heavy , try make the wing with carbon spars and balsa ribs with film covering use epoxy with balsa dust as glue. Lighten up the fuselage, The wing roots can use foam coverings but with less glue .. maybe a little bigger fan 👍 try get it to glide then you know it’s in the right ball park 👌
Your wing ailerons are the wrong way, they need to point upwards a little... that's why it went nose down. Your rear v tail is trying to lift and the wing ailerons are bringing the nose back down. It's called reflex. Add it to the control surfaces and it will naturally try and lift.
Sorry, but you're very wrong here, adjusting the ailerons down generally increases the wing chamber therefore increasing lift, that's what you want for takeoff. This is not a delta its a conventional (v) tail setup where the pitch moment the flaps on the wing create is hugely outweighted by the pitch moment the tail feather can provide.
Clark y is not a good arifoio.for low Reynolds. Lot of drag. You should try the old rg15 which was used on some old competition rc gliders on f3b F3F 20 years ago.
Has anyone investigated turbines? I watched a utube claiming that jet turbines don't burn much fuel at all, once the turbine spins up; they're basically powered by compressed air. The only time they burn fuel faster is in 'afterburner' mode. Is that right? thx.
Adding weight to improve CoG is never good. Better to move items inside the fuselage. The skies / skids with keel, great idea, but in this case, they add too much drag. Constantly turning left. The fan acts as a gyroscope, but check the control surfaces also. The aircraft is underpowered. You may need to use spring loaded ramp. Finally, it is most likely "Error of Scale" that is hurting you. You can resize the plane, but not the air molecules.
Whenever you give it another go, here's the main things you should consider:
1. Light wing loading. Try to keep it as light as possible. There's basically no downside to having a lighter plane, it'll just fly better all around.
2. Proper CG placement. Typically you want it to be at 25 - 33% of the wing chord from the leading edge. If your wing taper is symmetrical on both sides you can just measure the CG at the root. I like to stick closer to 25% especially on new planes because it'll be more stable that way.
3. Don't bother with the sled. Your plane should be light enough to just hand launch. Have someone hold it over their head as you throttle to 100%, then they should maybe take a couple steps forward and chuck it as hard as they can. They can angle it up slightly when they throw, maybe 10 degrees, but throwing it at too steep of an angle might cause it to stall. Be ready on the elevator in case in immediately wants to nose dive.
I've built maybe a dozen planes and have found they checks usually give the best chance of success. However crashing is part of the process so don't beat yourself up if it doesn't go perfect. Good luck!
ELRS tutorial on mavlink please.
Check the C of G is at 1/3 of the chord of the wing. Basically going from the front of the wing you should be able to balance the aircraft 1/3 of the way to the back of the wing on 2 points each side of the fuselage. anything less than 100mm EDF isn't going to have the power to supply enough thrust and for such a large aircraft you will probably want to be running 6s minimum battery size, A better solution would be to use a pusher prop configuration. With the engine at the back it will help to put the CoG in the wing area .... Launches will be more frightening!
Keep up the good work. Make mistake, learn lesson, Improve, make mistake, learn lesson, Improve ...V2 will be so much better!
Would love to hear more about how you set up the ELRS Mavlink telemetry. I've been thinking about that myself lately.
I'm RC on 2.4 and AirPort on 900Mhz ELRS and it works flawlessly, almost like Dragonlink.
If u get crossfire there is 0 to set up, it all just works with very little effort. I regularly fly 9 miles out on 500mw 150hz which is the range of my video, I never drop signal strength and never lose telemetry. Gps coordinates on the module, lost model find mode, battery back up diversity reciever. crossfire is worth it, elrs is tempting but it still needs some work to simplify and standardize itself.
@@sakarrc5001
Interesting, I am running the exact opposite setup - 868Mhz for the RC and 2.4Ghz for Airport Mavlink. I figured since 2.4Ghz has a higher baud rate it will make the Mavlink connection more snappy. Still have a problem of long parameter loading time tho. But I will definitely do a tutorial on how to make ELRS Airport work in the next video so stay tuned.
Hey Jacob, if you still want to make and fly Global Hawk, I suggest starting a new design with some firm numbers that will match other good flying RC models such as powered gliders. You would probably want your G.H. to match the weight and the wing loading of a similar-sized powered glider. Also, it would definitely help if your power system would be closer to a 1:1 ratio. How can you achieve this? By using the correct materials and correct building techniques - 3-6mm depron foam, thin wall carbon fiber tubes instead of aluminum. Do not use hot glue for construction, use proper foam glue and not in excessive amounts.
Wondering if the wings have enough surface area for the weight ?
Lot of hot glue, wondering same.
Great work tho, I'm sure you'll have it flying : )
I admire the effort. Keep it up. All that failure is a lesson learned. Thanks for sharing your R&D.
This is how both of my attempts to design and fly a 3D printed FPV plane have gone. I’ve been at it over a year and have attempts 3 and 4 nearing completion (went two different directions based on the first 2).
Keep at it, learn from your mistakes and have some confidence that you will get there…. Eventually….
Incredible project! Impressive innovation in building a scaled-down RC Global Hawk drone. Looking forward to further updates on this!
Your board was much better. 👍
Don't use an edf for such a plane.
They are not efficient. Short flight time and less power.
A pusher setup is the best for this kind of plane.
Maybe a 40A esc would make more sense with a 64mm edf.
And be careful with the skis, because they can nose down in the air and then lead to a crash. (More tension needed in front than back.)
Edf plane with Liion batteries
ruclips.net/video/XrIq7ZYHqGw/видео.htmlsi=bi5wIovDNRi0xQN-
Pay attention on the voltage sag at the launching sequence ☝️
The thrust will be lower.
Pusher might be better for flight as this massive wing would cancel out torque but for RUclips it’s not so cool
Build planes is an exercise in strength to weight ratio and power to drag. Just. Casual observation using hot melting glue vs. CA would free up some weight and using a carbon fiber tube for your main spar is probably going to be lighter than the aluminum. You could experiment with the motor placement to help get your CG in the right place without adding ballast to correct the CG.
Explaining every detail😱. I love it💪!!
I love the idea of hand launching it out the window of your moving car haha! That is definitely something I would have tried out of frustration 😅
you should really make the elrs telemetry tutorial :) looking forward to it.
The plane may have not been nose heavy, the thrust line looks to be above the centre of mass so when you full throttle hand launched it there was a pitch down tendency
the wings are twisty
You've done an awesome job! I could be incorrect but it doesn't seem to have nearly enough thrust.
Surgical tubing slingshot...
Nice you could always try a long rubber bungie chord to launch the plane once the CG is correct.
Looks like there's more mass in the hot glue used then in the foam or balsa, leading to a fit and finish that's, a bit rough,... Best part of video was seeing how easy it was to run the laser cutter.
najważniejsze żeby się nie poddawać, fajna robota!
I like your construction methods. Can't wait to see it fly.
The aluminium is to heavy use carbon 10mm spar and hot glue is to heavy, use epoxy resin
Great job, for further attempts drop the idea of sliding and just create a rubber powered catapult that you will be able to reuse for all your further projects
hot glue, then tape and then again paint? then adding nuts to get CG when you can move the battery? talk about adding weight for nothing.
I want to help you, first put battery further back and remove tail balance weights, loose weight, remove skids and hand launch it only , throw it in a more upward direction because pusher plane want to nose down when starting off ,don't use hot glue and remake the wing with carbon fibre spar only no hot glue to heavy ok 😉 ❤ good luck
information 2:24 yes.! wing profiles do NOT scale down. a small, low-re# wing should have a Flat-bottomed profile that resembles the clark-y. or see the n-10, at airfoiltools.
2:27 a main wing is supposed to have a contiguous load-bearing main spar, located at thirty percent of chord (or mac). it is not clear whether the root of the main spar is optimally located. if not, then the entire spar structure is flawed.
2:51 is there a REASON that the mass of two servos is located aft-of the cg.?!? the Entire fuselage is contoured in ONLY One axis.! the shape of the nose is going to make unwanted Lift.!
3:20 a ducted fan exit opening should be CIRCULAR. not scalloped. the exit tube should have a certain amount of taper; eg., the area of the exit opening should be equal to the Effective swept area of the impeller.
the source of thrust is vertically offset; meaning, the line of thrust passes above/does not intersect the point where the c-m is Supposed to be located. c-m is center of mass. if this thrust issue is not corrected, the rate of energy consumption will be increased, a bit; as a result of the need to use 'more' elevator up-trim. d
You built a small scale edf military type drone you mean. Did u try inav autolaunch? Edf has a slower wind up might not work as great but ive had good luck with auto launch with heavier pusher props. You can also just make a cheap pvc launch platform and bungee launch it. The car would work just fine with autolaunch but you really should go like 30+mph, you were going like 10 or 15 which is well below its stall speed im sure. I didnt watch your entire build so i cant comment as to any design issues. Just mainly watched all your flight attempts.
Jacob's dad is here now. Elon Musk eat your heart out! :P
hi my bro i respect you cause you choose doing hard work to reach ur dream i can know ur feeling cause when ur model will fly u feel u sit in that model and flying with that and that feeling cant explain by any words. but i wanna told my some experience with making flying model : 1-we cant make any model with perfect 1/16 or 1/20 or any ...... cause we dont have any material so light and so strong when we wanna make wing with 2.5 metr long u cant only thing strong wing and leave weight or reverse u must have balance both of them 2-you use hot glue in winter try to fly ok but do you thing about hot summer when ur model wanna be so many hours under hot summer son? i havce that experience and that very bad feeling 3- im sure ur scale is perfect scale 1/16 but i offer to you use seperation wing method and assemble each wing to ur model in flying area maybe that way not work with aluminum spar but that a very better way transfer ur model to any area without knowing all neighbors about what are you doing 4- u dont need a long tube for ur exust after edf cause u kill so many exaust in that long tube and decrease ur edf power u cand move ur edf in final area in that tube and remove all tube cause u dont have jet engine with many fan blade 5- wben ur model have big wing u cant launch it with launcher i know cause that way launch involve so heavey stress to ur model and im sure wings with this size cant absorb that stress without damage, u cant use retract wheels to ur model to or any skate board tricks like u use in ur video cause u disturbing ur cenger of gravity and for fix it use so many weight and thats not good cause any 1 grams in these model are important. i thing every hand launching is harmfull for these model cause when u use ur energy move frome ur hand to ur fuselage and that moment ur long wing under heavy strees cause must move with fuselage and maybe broke or crack or not ur launch did not reach to flying speed and dive to groind and broke after that my idea for launching is this: use face wind or using a surface with 4 weels and sit ur plane on it whithout any screw or glur and use ur trust to move and when ur model reach flying speed seperate from that surface easily
I believe you will make it fly..... Best wishes.
Bro just need more power ❤🎉
Note that the motor placed behind the main wing (behind CoG) at the height it's at, causes a lot of down-moment (thrust) - Might want to add Throttle-to-Elevator Mixing to compensate for that downthrust
i also got a fs-i6 lol thats a good build
Thanks! I refuse to let that radio die. With OpenI6X it works like a charm
@@BasementCreationsChannel amen brother
omg.. I need to see this fly! Can't wait for the update!
Great attempt! I look forward to the first flight.
Great built, and Yes Givenchy some tutorial about Mavlink !!
I love this design! Would work nice a a pusher propeller setup
I hope you get it flying. I was looking forward to seeing it in the air.
5S1P / 21V 2.6amp is not much for an edf....
You need a bungee launcher.
Hot glue is way too heavy, use CA instead. Keeping weight to a minimum is critical. Also, the wings chord is too small; the aircraft will be prone to tip stalls and spins unless you keep the airspeed very high at all times.
20:45 Please make a video of your Transmitter setup.
Lightwaith balsa and after tonns of heat plastic...
Good ideas i can put on my hang glider to carry big loads
with out a pilot thanks bro
Great job...! Post your telemetry and TX setup video...bro Keep up the great work.
I would try to get the CG correct without the nuts and bolts in the back. Maybe shift the motor more toward the rear. You must also be careful to use only about 10% with the flaperons.
I really want to see it fly also.
So many cool tools it’s a pity it was not enough to get the project off the ground this time.
Bravo.perfect. thenks. Go ahead
I don’t even know what to say. If you do every single thing in a way that’s not even remotely close to a workable solution, don’t expect flight. This is a valuable lesson on how not to build aircraft
Nice build, but how much does it weigh, and what’s your wing surface? This you can calculate the wing loading (g/dm2). You cannot just scale a larger plane down because of different Reynolds numbers. This has something to do with viscosity, your wing cord and whether your profile has laminar or turbulent flow. I think you will need a larger chord length, and especially, use less and lighter glue, only on contact surfaces.
Since the engine is mounted on top of the rear fuselage, it will push the nose down. Maybe you can try to give it a couple of degrees down, because your wing is your balancing point. As someone else said, CG about 1/4 to 1/3 of the leading edge of the wing.
Like your project, you have a new subscriber.
size your model (wing) based on the approximate desired stall speed.
Vstall= sqrt((2^Weight)/(0.0023769*Swing*CLmax))
Vstall in ft/sec
Weight in lb
Swing=wing area in ft^2
CLmax - (for models) use 1.0 for most cases
(on the web pull up a copy of NACA report 586 and note that your landing Reynolds number is going probably be between 80,000-100,000)
Also, for models, you generally want the takeoff Thrust / Weight ratio to be greater than 0.5 .
Take care and have fun!
Try to move weight around before adding more weight for balance.
The ducted fan can be moved rearward, along with lots of the electronics and batteries.
13:30 thick trailing edges make More Drag than thin ones do.!!! across the Entire wingspan.!
16:49 control horns WRONG. ideally, a control surface should have the shape of a Parallelogram.
It seems to me that the high thrustline of the EDF could be causing problems . In your first attempts on the sled you can actually see the rear of the fuselage lift - pivoting around the front of the fuselage. it also is apparent in the dive after the attempt to launch using the car. I would advise adding a means of adjusting the thrust line down (Swiveling keel mount for example), aiming the EDF towards the CG point on the wing, to reduce the downwards pitching moment around the CG.Good luck with it and would like to hear more of your on board electronics.
I think the cowling is reducing the EDF thrust. Either move that EDF back or add a propulsive duct from it to the exit of the cowl?
Are you using a 60A ESC as the manufacturer suggests?
push EDF further back and make thrust hole smaller
instead of using counterweights why not shift the motor to the back. Also you should be able to hold the wing at 1/3 from the leading edge to find the center of gravity.
Can you please make one separate video about the electronics and how you config. the fs-i6 with elrs & tablet ?
thank you.
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I have a 3018 I cut carbon fiber with, I really like how with your machine you don’t need to affix your pieces to be machined, I have a laser I have not yet put on mine but I think because the build plate is my y axis I’ll have to clamp down the workpiece as it will move forward and back which may shift things
Lots of good stuff and nice effort. Great ELRS and TX setup, for best results each should be on different frequency like 2.4/900.
Some things that will make it better probably: Don't use flaperons, on anything but bush models, as they behave very CG dependent, especially with this small tail and especially on take off (Just put inner flaps if needed). Compass is not needed in Planes with Ardu, it will only mess AHRS. For the tools that you have, such weak, boxy and finicky fuselage is low par. The glue man, you saved 10x with balsa only to replace it with hot glue and useless paint, use UHUPor for glue and leave it laminated only. You missed the dihedral from the original design, which is essential for stability of planes with long, short chord wings.
Nice wings, not bendy, but probably you have to increase torsion strength massively especially on the tips, with your spar design this was no fly moment. Also for long wings irregularities on leading edge disrupts the laminar flow and adds irregular torsion forces making your wings to twist and be uncontrollable.
EDFs are questionable if you go for efficiency.
Cheers keep it up.
Waaaay toooooo Heavy!
I see you use Ardupilot Mission Planner on Android. Does it work fine for you? Does it support all the necessary features? Or you mostly use it for telemetry and route planning?
It works alright, but I just begin testing it, mostly used it for arming, calibrating and changing some parameters on the go. There are some other apps like Qgroundcontrol which seem to work much better tho
All that snow.....next time build a ramp 🙂
Use higher volts battery. Just reduce throttle in flight.
How did you get a multiprotocol module to work on that radio?
I flashed my FS-I6X radio with a magic piece of software called OpenI6X. I am honestly surprised how well it works on this old hardware. But it will require you to do some soldering.
Nice work🎉
Developement suggestion: Throw it.
You built it so heavy I would have been amazed if it got off the ground.
cool video !! Is there any fumes that are dangerous from cutting the foam?
I never understood why they built them with the engine they put in it. We have better technology today that vastly out shines this power plant.
Basic diy builders are making better stuff. Hell, Iran and China are making the exact same thing. They are 30 years behind the average American person. What are we spending our freaking money on??
Nice try and good designing project even that at the end it did not fly.
There is some problem with the structure, motor thrust, and the way you apply thrust through your controller.
If it possible, could you please create a video about telemetry setup! :)
Oh well... I think what you need is a V-shaped wing maybe 1-2 degrees... Not sure it is possible in your current construction though
Ahhhh, too underpowered?
I suggest adding a small verticle rudder directly behind the thrust of the ducted fan that is set for a tiny offset to compensate for the turning from the fan inertia. Maybe also do a rail for takeoff, with a wheeled trolley that drops away.
Why the hotglue everywhere? To bond to aluminum epoxy would be the best choice.
and put glue between the two objects, not next to it...adds only weight and no strenght
Did you size the nozzle area based on the EDF manual? It looks a bit big, likely not generating much thrust. If you didn’t - check the manufacturers docs for the EDF and it should show what inlet and exit area range is good for the specific EDF and anything outside of that will struggle to generate the correct target thrust.
I think it’s also a bit heavy. Covering in all that tape is a lot of weight and i would think to match the flight characteristics closely it should be much easier to hand launch which would require more thrust (like mentioned above) and much lower weight.
You definitely won’t get much endurance out of an EDF, the off the shelf ones are not very power efficient.
The model looks great though, good job with the build
1) do hand launch
2) your car was much slower than my hand launch toss speed .
So in short try a fast running hand launch and use a more powerful battery .
Can you make a video on the electronics-setup you are using?
any chance to give that takeoff/landing thingies some additional uplift ?
13:25 abnormal servo location and control horn configuration. to the extent practical, the mass of wing-located servos should be located forward-of the thirty percent of chord line. the control horn should be located such that the pivot point is directly above the hinge line, when the control surface is at its neutral position.
It's so heavy,and the glue is very very heavy...just use epoxy...and take care of the CG ... You can deplace the battery to rear instead adding extra weight....
Hopefully you will fligh it soon....and by the way ,nice projects...keep going ...ur awesome ❤
Worried about saving weight on fuselage material then adds a tone of fot glue lol
Use CA glue and activator for stronger lighter joint
Doesn’t have enough Power output converted into speed to create Lift. You should test in a wind tunnel, and add more propulsion = Thrust Creating Lift. Or use a Rocket Motor with a Short Burn that can Fire set by remote Switch!😉
From an aerodynamic viewpoint it has all the grace of a breeze block. Whilst you correctly chose a more basic Clarke Y section, the wing chord is way too narrow. You can't exact scale from 120 feet original. Wing skins far too thick. An electric ducted fan is the most inefficient form of propulsion known to man. You know that right?....The hot glue weighs more than those cute ribs...!!...Watch some construction videos of model glider wing construction is my advice. Oh, and take "Jet engine" off your thumbnail...most annoying....lol....🤔😳😮😏🇬🇧
I thought the MavLink telemetry was still in Beta or pre Beta? Please make a video.
Dope
why not hand-launch it?
Great work, but damn hotglue
Thumbs up
I think to much hot glue it’s to heavy , try make the wing with carbon spars and balsa ribs with film covering use epoxy with balsa dust as glue. Lighten up the fuselage, The wing roots can use foam coverings but with less glue .. maybe a little bigger fan 👍 try get it to glide then you know it’s in the right ball park 👌
Could the problem be gyroscopic if the motor was cogged to the fan on the jet so they spin opposite directions it might fly straight
How many basements have you created?
Your wing ailerons are the wrong way, they need to point upwards a little... that's why it went nose down. Your rear v tail is trying to lift and the wing ailerons are bringing the nose back down. It's called reflex. Add it to the control surfaces and it will naturally try and lift.
Sorry, but you're very wrong here, adjusting the ailerons down generally increases the wing chamber therefore increasing lift, that's what you want for takeoff. This is not a delta its a conventional (v) tail setup where the pitch moment the flaps on the wing create is hugely outweighted by the pitch moment the tail feather can provide.
Clark y is not a good arifoio.for low Reynolds. Lot of drag. You should try the old rg15 which was used on some old competition rc gliders on f3b F3F 20 years ago.
Has anyone investigated turbines? I watched a utube claiming that jet turbines don't burn much fuel at all, once the turbine spins up; they're basically powered by compressed air. The only time they burn fuel faster is in 'afterburner' mode. Is that right? thx.
Not really I'm afraid. Turbines are far from "perpetum mobile" efficiency.
Adding weight to improve CoG is never good. Better to move items inside the fuselage.
The skies / skids with keel, great idea, but in this case, they add too much drag.
Constantly turning left. The fan acts as a gyroscope, but check the control surfaces also.
The aircraft is underpowered. You may need to use spring loaded ramp.
Finally, it is most likely "Error of Scale" that is hurting you.
You can resize the plane, but not the air molecules.
Bigger motor?