I used commercial variants of in a research facility a couple decades ago. You might be interested in some of the physical differences: The general layout was essentially identical, but both wider horizontally, giving it a functional flat top, and shorter vertically. It also ran on lead acid batteries that doubled as chassis ballast. The front wheels were much smaller, likely less than 5", and placed as far forward as mechanically possible. It had a single rear wheel oriented with the handle, and a wedge as a manual brake, leveraged with the handle. Nice work.
Excellent video a lot of tecnical challenges. I Made a motorised wheel to move large trailers, that to took many tries. But the feeling of satisfaction when it works is worth the effort. Cheers from Stephen in Melbourne Australia.
It is absolutely a win with 10 score on the robustness and build quality ... However, I have some recommendations on the electrical fail. Having built plane pushers I have some experience here. At the time I owned a scooter parts store and helped a friend with the plane pushers. What you *NEED* is what we call a wig-wag throttle and motor controller. On your T handle you should have pivot bar that is turning a variable resistor. Pull with the right hand for forward left for reverse. Having the motor make the jump to light speed by switching full motor current is a fire waiting to happen Our systems used a Chinese 800watt motor with a steel gear reduction powered by a Curtus 6303 (if I recall correctly)wheelchair controller. This required 2 12V 12Amp hour batteries, and would push a DC 10 with ease. Motor retail was $140 Controller and wig-wag with wiring around $120. Another model used 2 wheelchair right angle gear motors and cost more but offered power steering. I highly recommend you aquire a motor controller and upgrade your power to be on the level of quality you put into the magnificant machine. I can look up the Curtis controller because that number may not be correct. Awesome job, just need speed control.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Glad you read this and you are welcome. I could easily write as much about all the things you did right. The load adjusting system is genius. We never had any issues with traction because we were not carrying any load (weight) and therefore used pneumatic tires. Once you get speed control with your drive ratio you will find it will just creep up to full throttle without losing traction. Your stubby axle close wheels are plenty robust for double the motor you have now if you need more. The caged gearbox with outside bushing is awesome and likely required for the task at hand. Bravo! I got a little jealous with the machine work because my entire shop and inventory burned in the neighbors tire fire last October. Mill, lathe, welders, tool boxes, everything melted. :(. If you want exact information on what parts we used I can find them online and link pictures and part numbers. Partsforscooters.com is a good resource and has wiring diagrams for everything they sell. I have no affiliation with them, just good people .
This was great comment - i think second lifing electronic/control stuff is next step for my man here who loves a scrap run like me - so much great stuff goes in the bin from things like the wheelchair you mentioned, every caveat applies of course but its wild the quality of componets in equipment where protecting human life was the aim for exapmple, because safety factors are always 10X plus actual requirement - overbuilt is just standard then. Cool build GLHF @@kevinsellsit5584
@@kevinsellsit5584 awesome that’s good to know. I definitely understand what it’s like to have a shop that gets burned down. My first shop was burned down as well.
Another clear win.custom bespoke engineered tools like this are always an asset, until you realise its main purpose is to allow more time in the workshop without needing assistance , the portability will pay dividends too. Stout !
I think I have to disagree here. Moving heavy stuff sucks, but it's not scary. People drinking and driving, the shit they are teaching kids in schools, the total economic failure of the United States looming in the very near future, to name just a couple scary things. But these things are of course subject to opinion.
I like it. I wonder if you could incorporate a mechanism that integrates the lifting/lowering (ie rotates the shaft), so you have a button for up and down and one for forward/reverse. that way when you need to change direction you can back off the load, skid the dolly then jack it up and keep moving.
Next is to add a remote for wireless operation ! A micro controller and a relay or 2 would make it so you could have full access around the piece of equipment you are moving while controlling the movement. Build a second unit and enable turning by independently controlling each unit. Otherwise, great project, very well executed!!
You can get caravan and trailer movers here in the UK for £3-400, only had a quick look, they come with remote controls, are fully steerable and work on 12V
@@MrPlusses I've seen those, but the price is way higher than what he spent in materials to make his, and making your own tool to do something unique is half the fun.
That hole that you have at the front. If you where to fit a bearing, that would give you a lot of options. What needs to be moved could require a different point for the lift. A bit like e.g. electronic shaver + all the add ons. "Over Kill" is just another word for perfection, & you do that well. Thanks.
Most of the C-face worm gear boxes I have seen rely on the motor bearings for support of one end of the worm, there is only one bearing in the gearbox (i.e. there is no bearing behind the oil seal at the input). Yours might be different, but if not and you have not provided a second bearing, the life of the gear box is likely to be short. If I were doing something like that I'd consider making the handle connection rigid and using the leverage from the handle for traction (something like a Johnson bar) to reduce or eliminate putting high torque on the machine frame (which was designed for vertical, not bending loads)
Very interesting! In the end, do you know the amount of torque you have with all the multiplication? I'm considering the same project but with Vevor 5Tons rollers.
I love your videos, and normally it's a master class of frankly insane levels of engineering and overbuilding. This is maybe the first vid I've ever seen when I disagree with your choices. Using a dpdt switch and running all the wires up the handle? YIKES dude. a $10-20 PWM motor controller would give you soft start, speed control, forward / reverse, only signal wires going up the handle to the UI at the top of the handle, all the heavy wires can stay down below between motor, battery, and controller. Also chances are ya gonna kill that M18. You have no clamping because you have no electronics just a switch, so every time you let on/off that motor you're sending a big negative voltage spike to the battery. Lithium batteries have no problem with that what so ever, in fact they're better suited for it than most. The problem is the control board, as even brushed m18 tools have snubber/filtering to keep it out of the battery (and also for EMI reasons MFG's have to deal with for certification, unrelated to your work). Same reason why that switch will die very quickly. Normally throwing a diode across is enough but that won't work for your dpdt reversing setup without extra fuckery. I really suggest buying a cheap motor controller and using that. There really is no downside, and your use is such low power it should last forever, give you soft-start and speed control, allow you to (in the future) change gearing or motor easily since you're no longer confined to max rpm), keep from damaging the BMS on the m18's (seems milwaukee bms like dying more than dewalt when it comes to.. extracurricular activities using their packs). Hell if you went motor controller, you could instead of having fwd/rev switch, and a knob for speed control, and a go-button, or knob for speed control, and pressing fwd or rev switch makes it move in that direction, you could get a cheap scooter twist-throttle, and only have a switch for fwd/rev. Lots of options once you go speed controller, which also will give you more runtime per charge. Really there is no downside except the rework, which is minor imo. Great project and as usual an insane amount of over-building and engineering that I get excited for from this channel! I'm glad it worked so well!
Good points I am sure your idea is better. Most of the effort went into building the structure powering it was more of an after thought. I wanted to keep it very simple just in case it did not work, which I thought was fairly likely, if anything think of this more as a proof of concept. It works for me but it gets used occasionally and will be fine for that but has lots of room for improvement if it was going to be sold. But that’s was never my intent.
This is a really good idea, I struggled moving my 2 ton milling machine with some machine skates and a crowbar in a tight space. I would have given this serious thought of a purchase if I thought it would have helped me in the slightest.
Needs Turbo Speed now 🤣 On that Geared motor you finished up with I have sketched up a slow speed Carbide grinder based on one. They run front and rear bearings so apart from a bit of gear noise should be ok I think?
That thing grids on your floor, because it is unbalanced, unless you attach like a 20ft lever and stand on it, as a counterweight. A good collection of round bar stock, pipes, round fence posts, a long bar to push or an old excavator to pull with, always did it for me, no fancy toys required.
I don't understand the physics of it, how can you possibly apply 1000's of pounds of force down on the front without it just see-sawing and lifting the rear?
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair I see that but how? There is nothing holding up the area under the jack? The two wheels just seem like a fulcrum on a see-saw, what keeps the whole skate level? ⚙⬇⚖🛞⚖⬆⁉
@@theSquashSH i think the physics are such that you don't need to truly lift the equipment, you are simply exerting enough up force to create more pounds per square inch on this battery powered mover than the sheer force required to create lateral movement to start the support skids moving. It's about creating just enough force to offset the sheer. Hope i am explaining this correctly. Correct if I have the wrong idea. Ex. If it takes 600lbs sideways or lateral force to move 10,000lbs which is on wheels, then say you apply 800lbs up force with this rig, it distributes 400lbs to each of rigs two wheels, but this 800 is still enough to cause it to laterally move machine's 9,200lbs of weight.
Hold on - I initially thought that . This is the deal , the machine is on a set of trolleys already so the unit he made here is not bearing the weight . The essential thing to realize is that the mover is bolted tight to the machine and the hefty hinge is there to allow the adjustment screw to apply enough force on the wheels for traction . That attachment plate is only 1/4" or 3/8" and will eventually become a spring when faced with the weight of the machine . No physics to explain really
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair moving away from google as your search engine may help with this. It is not worth the price anymore, and it's free and conveniently pre installed.
I have one or two, lets call them questions. As stated, you were proposing something possibly accessible to an average rigger. Not the owner of said rigging outfit, not some well paid engineer, but a crew lead rigger or possibly just a laborer, who is in all reality the only person that cares about their back in this situation. How accessible is this going to be for them? Without access to various and sundry machinery, what I'll assume is a hefty scrap pile to pick through, or the skill and time to do the work, those will all be out of pocket costs for a guy or couple of guys to bear. How much would it cost them, realistically, to commission something similar to be made, obviously not necessarily so overbuilt, because the answer there is just as much as the enerpac product. A thoroughly underpaid workhorse with a family to house and feed? I thought the goals were unrealistic from the door, personally, aside from setup time.
This is more for me I was comparing buying this compared to the 80,000$ option. If someone paid someone else to make one they would save a significant margin.
18:58 .. I don't know exactly why but I just LOVE broaching !! :) I designed and built a small portable broaching device, for 1/4" X 20 hot dip galvanized carriage bolts to attach some interior supports to my big StepVan! :) ... The device, PULLS the 1/4" square broach through the heavy gauge Aluminum, that the van's body panels are made from .. allowing me to Through Bolt the supports directly to the van's body. The square hole will stop the carriage bolts from rotating, (obviously :) and pretty much eliminate any gaps ... that will allow a small dab of silicone under the Bolt's Head, to eliminate any water intrusion
Removable traction weights.still nice design effort.maybe off road wheels but if your not going off road with 10,000lbs then nevermind .only thing left is subs ,amp and stereo and your set.
I’m only 16 minutes in, but if you used this same gearbox and wheel combination to replace the wheels on a Harbor Freight Badlands Jack, it would give you almost instant setup, the ability to steer, and a robust frame to start with; after all, you only have to put enough downward force to pre😢slipping. A badlands Jack is made to break down for transport.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair you aren’t lifting the machine. You’re providing enough force to prevent slipping. 400 lbs maybe? 1000 to be safe. Put a piece of rubber in between and let it squish. Contact adhesive and 1/8” rubber? It lifts trucks off the ground, so it’s enough.
@VanoverMachineAndRepair maybe, but then you are are only using wheels rated at 1000lbs each, so how is that so much different? I'm a little confused by your point here, not trying to be argumentative, just curious on thoughts. The HF adaptation may be much more accessible for the little guy.
41:19 ... Reramers .. My Dad use to wok at a factory when I was a boy, they used reamers all over the place making small parts for the 1960's GM cars and trucks, that were new then! :) The remers would last a few day, at the factory, and then got discarded, they would still cut, just not accurately enough. So naturally we had all sorts of reamers in my Dad's basement shop. I used to use them all the time for opening holes up on projects I was always working on, even on wood :) I assumed everyone had loads of reamers in tier basement! :) .. my Dad died a few years ago, Mom sold the farm, and my older brother either stole or sold everything :( . I only have maybe 4 reamers left.(bigger ones) and still find an excuse to use them occasionally :)
Kyle, I think it's a succes. Project wise and a solution to your problems as a one man army. Room for improvement; always after model one proved your case. Bigger motor with higher speed and same or higher torque could improve the performance I think but I'm not sure. What do you think? Thank you for sharing another nice expedition with us. Best! Job
Initially when my faster motor failed, I thought a lack of torque was a contributing factor, but in reality not having a swept surface in front of the dollies was probably more of a contributor. It’s definitely a trade-off. I went to the reduction motor and got plenty of torque, but lost some speed. Initially, I was pretty bummed because I wanted to move a little bit quicker, but I realized when you’re moving a machine that’s that heavy You’re not really in a hurry. Also as a one-man shop, I need to monitor the dollies to make sure they don’t move out of the way while it’s moving so the speed actually worked out pretty good. It’s just fast enough or I can get there in a reasonable amount of time, but not too fast that I can get distracted and a dolly slips from the machine while it’s moving. Which does happen pretty frequently especially if you go over a dip in the concrete, sometimes one of the four dollies with kick out without me noticing.
Your device is similar to the small tugs used to move personal aircraft. I like your execution, but I would have gone a different route and modified a floor jack by driving the wheels under the lift point.
Damn, this is casually genius. An apex badlands off-road jack from harbor freight is cheap, tough, and eliminates everything except solving the drive element. Plus, BONUS!, would 100% add the ability to turn while in operation.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair If the machine that you want to move weighs 10,000 lbs, and you only need to lift one end with the jack, then the actual lifting requirement is 5,000 lbs. A 3 ton floor jack should suffice for your application. How to transfer power to the jack wheels is definitely the issue to solve, but it's not insurmountable. A small hydraulic motor with a planetary gear reduction is one possible solution. Larger wheels could be installed on the floor jack to improve traction and to provide adequate clearance for a drive train.
"Even though I usually hate cheap chinese stuff, I need cheap chinese stuff" like i dont know why people say this. It fits the budget. That's fine. You don't like cheap Chinese stuff? Pay for top quality stuff from Japan or Taiwan or the US. Its a price point just like anything else. America makes plenty of cheap crap too.
Well china is the reason your video exists on my phone right now.... their inhumane economy model made sure we can afford almost 50% of everything that we own. Maybe a bit junky 30% of the time but nonetheless better than 100% of nothing. So yeah. We were lucky china did what others didn't want or couldn't do... otherwise cheer for your video i loved it👍 and I'm not chinese 😊
It seems to me you could add a third tire in front controled by radio rd to steer then you could be anywhere you need to be to see what you need to see I really enjoy your Vedic 73 dan
Technically, if you merely copy a patented product for your own purposes, it's legally a patent violation. So you might want to check if the design is patented.
That is false. It's only a patent violation if you copy and sell it or use it for commercial gain. I don't know his marketing plans but I'm sure he is on top of this. Besides, exactly what product is he copying? The one he showed is an entirely different concept.
Definitely did not copy the Enerpac unit. My design probably doesn’t have a single part in common with that. Also, I don’t plan on selling it and also Enerpac doesn’t care about me at all. I am a nobody lol.
Great job on that, enjoyed watching thanks for sharing!
Keep up the great work at what you do, that’s what built America 👍
I used commercial variants of in a research facility a couple decades ago. You might be interested in some of the physical differences:
The general layout was essentially identical, but both wider horizontally, giving it a functional flat top, and shorter vertically. It also ran on lead acid batteries that doubled as chassis ballast.
The front wheels were much smaller, likely less than 5", and placed as far forward as mechanically possible.
It had a single rear wheel oriented with the handle, and a wedge as a manual brake, leveraged with the handle.
Nice work.
Wow very cool thank you
Excellent video a lot of tecnical challenges. I Made a motorised wheel to move large trailers, that to took many tries. But the feeling of satisfaction when it works is worth the effort. Cheers from Stephen in Melbourne Australia.
Yeah i am very happy. Nice meeting you
It is absolutely a win with 10 score on the robustness and build quality ... However, I have some recommendations on the electrical fail.
Having built plane pushers I have some experience here. At the time I owned a scooter parts store and helped a friend with the plane pushers.
What you *NEED* is what we call a wig-wag throttle and motor controller.
On your T handle you should have pivot bar that is turning a variable resistor. Pull with the right hand for forward left for reverse. Having the motor make the jump to light speed by switching full motor current is a fire waiting to happen
Our systems used a Chinese 800watt motor with a steel gear reduction powered by a Curtus 6303 (if I recall correctly)wheelchair controller. This required 2 12V 12Amp hour batteries, and would push a DC 10 with ease.
Motor retail was $140
Controller and wig-wag with wiring around $120.
Another model used 2 wheelchair right angle gear motors and cost more but offered power steering.
I highly recommend you aquire a motor controller and upgrade your power to be on the level of quality you put into the magnificant machine.
I can look up the Curtis controller because that number may not be correct.
Awesome job, just need speed control.
Good tips thank you.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Glad you read this and you are welcome. I could easily write as much about all the things you did right. The load adjusting system is genius. We never had any issues with traction because we were not carrying any load (weight) and therefore used pneumatic tires. Once you get speed control with your drive ratio you will find it will just creep up to full throttle without losing traction. Your stubby axle close wheels are plenty robust for double the motor you have now if you need more. The caged gearbox with outside bushing is awesome and likely required for the task at hand. Bravo!
I got a little jealous with the machine work because my entire shop and inventory burned in the neighbors tire fire last October. Mill, lathe, welders, tool boxes, everything melted. :(. If you want exact information on what parts we used I can find them online and link pictures and part numbers. Partsforscooters.com is a good resource and has wiring diagrams for everything they sell. I have no affiliation with them, just good people .
This was great comment - i think second lifing electronic/control stuff is next step for my man here who loves a scrap run like me - so much great stuff goes in the bin from things like the wheelchair you mentioned, every caveat applies of course but its wild the quality of componets in equipment where protecting human life was the aim for exapmple, because safety factors are always 10X plus actual requirement - overbuilt is just standard then. Cool build GLHF @@kevinsellsit5584
@@kevinsellsit5584 awesome that’s good to know. I definitely understand what it’s like to have a shop that gets burned down. My first shop was burned down as well.
That worked really well in the end. :) Far less straining and struggling to push the machine than without it.
Indeed
This was a very interesting project. I appreciate your honest assessments. Yours is unique channel. Good job.
I appreciate that!
That was a great project from concept to fab to final analysis. Love it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another clear win.custom bespoke engineered tools like this are always an asset, until you realise its main purpose is to allow more time in the workshop without needing assistance , the portability will pay dividends too.
Stout !
I appreciate it
another great video...love the channnel...nothing is scarier than moving big machines...
You got that right!
I think I have to disagree here. Moving heavy stuff sucks, but it's not scary. People drinking and driving, the shit they are teaching kids in schools, the total economic failure of the United States looming in the very near future, to name just a couple scary things. But these things are of course subject to opinion.
@@philbert006 I am with you on the scary stuff.
I love it! Prototyping is so much fun!
It is
Dude, you're so much like me 😂 seat of the pants engineering, R+D on the fly, love it 🤙
Agree best way!
It's in our blood. 👍
@hilltopmachineworks2131 lol yes Tom, yes it is 🎉
I think its pretty sweet. Looks good and easily hanles the load. No racing stripes though.. 😅
I like it. I wonder if you could incorporate a mechanism that integrates the lifting/lowering (ie rotates the shaft), so you have a button for up and down and one for forward/reverse. that way when you need to change direction you can back off the load, skid the dolly then jack it up and keep moving.
Yeah that’s a good idea
Fantastic work!
Thanks a lot!
They make a mover for moving aircraft in and out of the hanger, you should look into them for some ideas
Hmm I’ll have to check that out
Next is to add a remote for wireless operation ! A micro controller and a relay or 2 would make it so you could have full access around the piece of equipment you are moving while controlling the movement. Build a second unit and enable turning by independently controlling each unit. Otherwise, great project, very well executed!!
Thanks
Such a cool project. I bet it was funstrating at times. ;)
Indeed it was
You can get caravan and trailer movers here in the UK for £3-400, only had a quick look, they come with remote controls, are fully steerable and work on 12V
Really send me a link to those I am curious
Check out Trailer Valet Canada. Different purpose but nice machine.
edit: $6500
@@MrPlusses I've seen those, but the price is way higher than what he spent in materials to make his, and making your own tool to do something unique is half the fun.
@@richardclifton4120
Fully agree.
Was meant more for ideas and free engineering.
Ffffffff
This is going to be awesome !
I thought it was cool
Great video 👍 The reason the off shelf machine costs $100.000 is the insurance premiums they pay😂😂😂
Yeah I bet
I bet the target for those pricy movers is NASA, the military, Space X, etc.
@@transmitterguy478 agreed. That’s the first thing I thought of when I seen that.
@@transmitterguy478if not them directly, someone that owns the business and can bear the cost of a years salary for a rigger or laborer.
Very cool. 👌👍
It looks cosmic😮 Congrats 🎉
Thanks 😁
That hole that you have at the front. If you where to fit a bearing, that would give you a lot of options. What needs to be moved could require a different point for the lift. A bit like e.g. electronic shaver + all the add ons.
"Over Kill" is just another word for perfection, & you do that well.
Thanks.
Thank you. I have the cheese plate that bolts on this gives me lots of other holes for options.
3:00. What are you wearing on your boots?
I have a separate video on them
It’s fun to watch a machinist play
Indeed it is
This would be a great tool for a rental company to own
Yeah maybe
You forgot the other goal, To look Cool !👍 Nailed it ! Great build! Now we know what the bolt is for from a previous video. Be Safe!
Thanks 👍
I am a huge believer of over engineering. Especially proto types. Very well done
Thank you
Most of the C-face worm gear boxes I have seen rely on the motor bearings for support of one end of the worm, there is only one bearing in the gearbox (i.e. there is no bearing behind the oil seal at the input). Yours might be different, but if not and you have not provided a second bearing, the life of the gear box is likely to be short.
If I were doing something like that I'd consider making the handle connection rigid and using the leverage from the handle for traction (something like a Johnson bar) to reduce or eliminate putting high torque on the machine frame (which was designed for vertical, not bending loads)
Yeah good points
Nice lathe rebuild.
Thanks 👍
Very cool, was great to see the building and testing process!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Im trying to understand how your leverage mechanism works to get weight on the wheels.... can you post a video of it?
Probably not this project works but it’s low priority
Very interesting! In the end, do you know the amount of torque you have with all the multiplication?
I'm considering the same project but with Vevor 5Tons rollers.
I don’t it’s quite alot though
nice work! would love if you offered the diagrams and how to build this up.
I don’t have any sorry built as I went
That is absolutely awesome, well done 🤗
Thank you! Cheers!
How cool is this, Great job and thanks for the share.
Absolutely
I love your videos, and normally it's a master class of frankly insane levels of engineering and overbuilding. This is maybe the first vid I've ever seen when I disagree with your choices. Using a dpdt switch and running all the wires up the handle? YIKES dude. a $10-20 PWM motor controller would give you soft start, speed control, forward / reverse, only signal wires going up the handle to the UI at the top of the handle, all the heavy wires can stay down below between motor, battery, and controller.
Also chances are ya gonna kill that M18. You have no clamping because you have no electronics just a switch, so every time you let on/off that motor you're sending a big negative voltage spike to the battery. Lithium batteries have no problem with that what so ever, in fact they're better suited for it than most. The problem is the control board, as even brushed m18 tools have snubber/filtering to keep it out of the battery (and also for EMI reasons MFG's have to deal with for certification, unrelated to your work). Same reason why that switch will die very quickly. Normally throwing a diode across is enough but that won't work for your dpdt reversing setup without extra fuckery.
I really suggest buying a cheap motor controller and using that. There really is no downside, and your use is such low power it should last forever, give you soft-start and speed control, allow you to (in the future) change gearing or motor easily since you're no longer confined to max rpm), keep from damaging the BMS on the m18's (seems milwaukee bms like dying more than dewalt when it comes to.. extracurricular activities using their packs). Hell if you went motor controller, you could instead of having fwd/rev switch, and a knob for speed control, and a go-button, or knob for speed control, and pressing fwd or rev switch makes it move in that direction, you could get a cheap scooter twist-throttle, and only have a switch for fwd/rev. Lots of options once you go speed controller, which also will give you more runtime per charge. Really there is no downside except the rework, which is minor imo.
Great project and as usual an insane amount of over-building and engineering that I get excited for from this channel! I'm glad it worked so well!
Good points I am sure your idea is better. Most of the effort went into building the structure powering it was more of an after thought. I wanted to keep it very simple just in case it did not work, which I thought was fairly likely, if anything think of this more as a proof of concept. It works for me but it gets used occasionally and will be fine for that but has lots of room for improvement if it was going to be sold. But that’s was never my intent.
This is a really good idea, I struggled moving my 2 ton milling machine with some machine skates and a crowbar in a tight space. I would have given this serious thought of a purchase if I thought it would have helped me in the slightest.
Yeah I get that we’ll see how useful it becomes in the future
Needs Turbo Speed now 🤣 On that Geared motor you finished up with I have sketched up a slow speed Carbide grinder based on one. They run front and rear bearings so apart from a bit of gear noise should be ok I think?
Yeah agreed. That’s probably a good one for a slow speed grinder
That thing grids on your floor, because it is unbalanced, unless you attach like a 20ft lever and stand on it, as a counterweight.
A good collection of round bar stock, pipes, round fence posts, a long bar to push or an old excavator to pull with, always did it for me, no fancy toys required.
👍
It’s a great solution for a specific need. Cool build.
I appreciate it
You build a nice little tractor 🙂
Thanks 👍
Wait what?! Who are you and what did you do with Kyle?!! This imposter just said "I'm not going to over build this" thats definitely not Kyle 🤣
Yeah true
Do you have a spring in the tension of the wheels? It may be needed to avoid the skates shifting with variance in the floor
I do not that would be a lot of force for a spring (over 3tons)
The mounting plate turns into a spring when the wheels are tensioned-it is not very heavy duty plate so it will bend for sure
Great build man, excellent job..put them on the market I'll take one..
lol yeah it’s just for me lol
Cool Dude...
Thanks ✌️
did i miss it or was no drill press cutting oil used
Idk don’t remember
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair gotta use oil man
👍
I don't know if you mentioned it, but worm drive gearboxes are very inefficient. You lose a lot of your power there.
Maybe. Guess there is enough left over to work though
What are those boot sandals you are wearing for?
I have a separate video on those
Nice job looks like win to me 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
I don't understand the physics of it, how can you possibly apply 1000's of pounds of force down on the front without it just see-sawing and lifting the rear?
It works
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair I see that but how? There is nothing holding up the area under the jack? The two wheels just seem like a fulcrum on a see-saw, what keeps the whole skate level?
⚙⬇⚖🛞⚖⬆⁉
@@theSquashSH yeah not sure how to explain physics through comments lol
@@theSquashSH i think the physics are such that you don't need to truly lift the equipment, you are simply exerting enough up force to create more pounds per square inch on this battery powered mover than the sheer force required to create lateral movement to start the support skids moving. It's about creating just enough force to offset the sheer. Hope i am explaining this correctly. Correct if I have the wrong idea. Ex. If it takes 600lbs sideways or lateral force to move 10,000lbs which is on wheels, then say you apply 800lbs up force with this rig, it distributes 400lbs to each of rigs two wheels, but this 800 is still enough to cause it to laterally move machine's 9,200lbs of weight.
Hold on - I initially thought that . This is the deal , the machine is on a set of trolleys already so the unit he made here is not bearing the weight . The essential thing to realize is that the mover is bolted tight to the machine and the hefty hinge is there to allow the adjustment screw to apply enough force on the wheels for traction . That attachment plate is only 1/4" or 3/8" and will eventually become a spring when faced with the weight of the machine . No physics to explain really
reminds me of abom with the american pacemaker and Gorbel gib crane too
True
Nice job, electric johnson bars have been around for a long time
Share some of that info could not find any when searching
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair moving away from google as your search engine may help with this. It is not worth the price anymore, and it's free and conveniently pre installed.
I have one or two, lets call them questions. As stated, you were proposing something possibly accessible to an average rigger. Not the owner of said rigging outfit, not some well paid engineer, but a crew lead rigger or possibly just a laborer, who is in all reality the only person that cares about their back in this situation. How accessible is this going to be for them? Without access to various and sundry machinery, what I'll assume is a hefty scrap pile to pick through, or the skill and time to do the work, those will all be out of pocket costs for a guy or couple of guys to bear. How much would it cost them, realistically, to commission something similar to be made, obviously not necessarily so overbuilt, because the answer there is just as much as the enerpac product. A thoroughly underpaid workhorse with a family to house and feed? I thought the goals were unrealistic from the door, personally, aside from setup time.
This is more for me I was comparing buying this compared to the 80,000$ option. If someone paid someone else to make one they would save a significant margin.
18:58 .. I don't know exactly why but I just LOVE broaching !! :)
I designed and built a small portable broaching device, for 1/4" X 20 hot dip galvanized carriage bolts to attach some interior supports to my big StepVan! :) ...
The device, PULLS the 1/4" square broach through the heavy gauge Aluminum, that the van's body panels are made from .. allowing me to Through Bolt the supports directly to the van's body.
The square hole will stop the carriage bolts from rotating, (obviously :) and pretty much eliminate any gaps ... that will allow a small dab of silicone under the Bolt's Head, to eliminate any water intrusion
Broaching is fun!
Removable traction weights.still nice design effort.maybe off road wheels but if your not going off road with 10,000lbs then nevermind .only thing left is subs ,amp and stereo and your set.
Yeah agreed
Why would not use tapping fluid of some type when tapping. That’s a great way to ruin a tap and your drill bits too.
You don’t always need to use fluid when tapping. It certainly helps, but sometimes I choose not to use it.
Need an Austin Powers clip of a guy standing in front of it yelling "noooooo".
Exactly lol
And it works. Great project.
Thank you
It’ll work better with a larger tooth sprocket on motor and smaller sprocket on gearbox.
Yeah
I’m only 16 minutes in, but if you used this same gearbox and wheel combination to replace the wheels on a Harbor Freight Badlands Jack, it would give you almost instant setup, the ability to steer, and a robust frame to start with; after all, you only have to put enough downward force to pre😢slipping. A badlands Jack is made to break down for transport.
Yeah the weight rating is not high enough though
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair you aren’t lifting the machine. You’re providing enough force to prevent slipping. 400 lbs maybe? 1000 to be safe. Put a piece of rubber in between and let it squish. Contact adhesive and 1/8” rubber? It lifts trucks off the ground, so it’s enough.
@VanoverMachineAndRepair maybe, but then you are are only using wheels rated at 1000lbs each, so how is that so much different? I'm a little confused by your point here, not trying to be argumentative, just curious on thoughts. The HF adaptation may be much more accessible for the little guy.
@@jamesbsa6450 elitist machinist. Why go cheap and effective when… I can’t think of another reason. I think he just wants HIS idea maybe.
41:19 ... Reramers .. My Dad use to wok at a factory when I was a boy, they used reamers all over the place making small parts for the 1960's GM cars and trucks, that were new then! :)
The remers would last a few day, at the factory, and then got discarded, they would still cut, just not accurately enough. So naturally we had all sorts of reamers in my Dad's basement shop.
I used to use them all the time for opening holes up on projects I was always working on, even on wood :)
I assumed everyone had loads of reamers in tier basement! :) .. my Dad died a few years ago, Mom sold the farm, and my older brother either stole or sold everything :(
. I only have maybe 4 reamers left.(bigger ones) and still find an excuse to use them occasionally :)
Awe sorry that’s sad to hear
awesome video
Thanks!
Pretty Sweet! --Doozer
Thanks 👍
Why not just use air skates?
I’ll have to look those up
When you said it already exists, I guessed $50k.
lol yeah no
Brilliant!!
Thank you
Kyle, I think it's a succes. Project wise and a solution to your problems as a one man army. Room for improvement; always after model one proved your case. Bigger motor with higher speed and same or higher torque could improve the performance I think but I'm not sure. What do you think? Thank you for sharing another nice expedition with us. Best! Job
Initially when my faster motor failed, I thought a lack of torque was a contributing factor, but in reality not having a swept surface in front of the dollies was probably more of a contributor. It’s definitely a trade-off. I went to the reduction motor and got plenty of torque, but lost some speed. Initially, I was pretty bummed because I wanted to move a little bit quicker, but I realized when you’re moving a machine that’s that heavy You’re not really in a hurry. Also as a one-man shop, I need to monitor the dollies to make sure they don’t move out of the way while it’s moving so the speed actually worked out pretty good. It’s just fast enough or I can get there in a reasonable amount of time, but not too fast that I can get distracted and a dolly slips from the machine while it’s moving. Which does happen pretty frequently especially if you go over a dip in the concrete, sometimes one of the four dollies with kick out without me noticing.
I think its a little to slow, I guess if you have hours to move stuff around then its fine.
Yeag
why do your shoes have an exoskeleton
I have an entire video on them
I am really curious about those boots you are wearing.
I got a video on them
You think you did an excellent job ? No you didn't you did way better than that ! Give yourself credit, its an awesome build.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much!
Fantastic
Thanks
Your device is similar to the small tugs used to move personal aircraft. I like your execution, but I would have gone a different route and modified a floor jack by driving the wheels under the lift point.
Thanks good idea
Damn, this is casually genius. An apex badlands off-road jack from harbor freight is cheap, tough, and eliminates everything except solving the drive element. Plus, BONUS!, would 100% add the ability to turn while in operation.
@@philbert006 yeah the drive is the hardest part
@@philbert006 plus all the hf jacks are to low rated for my application I would need a 6 ton at least
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair If the machine that you want to move weighs 10,000 lbs, and you only need to lift one end with the jack, then the actual lifting requirement is 5,000 lbs. A 3 ton floor jack should suffice for your application.
How to transfer power to the jack wheels is definitely the issue to solve, but it's not insurmountable. A small hydraulic motor with a planetary gear reduction is one possible solution. Larger wheels could be installed on the floor jack to improve traction and to provide adequate clearance for a drive train.
28:47 Swapping both sprockets for double ones and a double chain would be ab easy fix?... if the chain is not strong enough
Yeah true
💥👊🏻💥
👍
"Even though I usually hate cheap chinese stuff, I need cheap chinese stuff" like i dont know why people say this. It fits the budget. That's fine. You don't like cheap Chinese stuff? Pay for top quality stuff from Japan or Taiwan or the US. Its a price point just like anything else. America makes plenty of cheap crap too.
Yeah
Someone clearly does not do work in the trades. If you do you havent payed enough attention and “close enough” is a common phrase.
@@Sak-zo1ui 👍
Well china is the reason your video exists on my phone right now.... their inhumane economy model made sure we can afford almost 50% of everything that we own. Maybe a bit junky 30% of the time but nonetheless better than 100% of nothing. So yeah. We were lucky china did what others didn't want or couldn't do... otherwise cheer for your video i loved it👍 and I'm not chinese 😊
Indeed
It seems to me you could add a third tire in front controled by radio rd to steer then you could be anywhere you need to be to see what you need to see I really enjoy your Vedic 73 dan
Yeah that could work as well
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair you did very well who m i to critic sorry
@@danhoag373 no worries
What r on your boots?
I have an entire video about that if you look through, you’ll find it
⭐🙂👍
👍
20:54 ... Beautiful!!!!
Thank you Mike
Wow!
Thanks
You should look wheelchair motors
Yeah good point
*4,5359237 ton machinery
Indeed
💯👍👍
Thank you
gloves? im sick and tired of lathe razor wire, cuts, metal slivers
👍
Power attack. Machine mover
Indeed
Just Google electric Johnson bar and there are plenty of results
Awesome thanks goes to show you. It’s all about searchability when I searched electric machinery, dollies I didn’t get any results.
Technically, if you merely copy a patented product for your own purposes, it's legally a patent violation. So you might want to check if the design is patented.
That is false. It's only a patent violation if you copy and sell it or use it for commercial gain. I don't know his marketing plans but I'm sure he is on top of this. Besides, exactly what product is he copying? The one he showed is an entirely different concept.
@@randy-yk1yk You are right.
Definitely did not copy the Enerpac unit. My design probably doesn’t have a single part in common with that. Also, I don’t plan on selling it and also Enerpac doesn’t care about me at all. I am a nobody lol.
Agreed
@@randy-yk1yk Go read the law.