Sam, I glad you went over this again. I got rid of the old Sears lathe and got a new to mini. It is a world of difference. I never used the full size of the old lathe and found that single pole - well let's say I am glad it is gone.
Sam, with very hard woods I will often use a small drill bit and drill a small depression (1/8") in the end of the blank for the point of the Steb center. This is a way to ensure the point has a good lock on center and is less likely to split the blank.
Hi Sam Yet another informative video. Great Job. I as a inexperienced turner had a piece jump off of the lathe .I believe that I had tightened the drive center and the tailstock was also tensioned but the piece still came free. One of my fellow turners suggested drilling a depression 1/16 to 1/8 inch deep with a forstner bit the same diameter as my spur center to help to keep the piece in place. I thought the suggestion was worth sharing.
Wonderful advice Sam. I feel this helps a lot. Now I would really like to hear more of your thoughts on rotating live centers. There are so many on the market and its so tempting to get one (or two) of each. Thanks!
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Sorry for being confusing. I'm not a good communicator. I guess I should have used the word revolving. There are several sizes of revolving stebcenters , revolving cone centers, slimline revolving centers. nova makes a revolving live center, oneway makes a revolving live center and I use the one from Robust and the one that came with my Jet lathe. There are cups, bullnose cones, pointy cones and several really small points. There is also a big variation in prices. There seems to be a big difference in bearing quality. I like to stay with respected brands but they tend to be more expensive. By now you are probably thinking, alright, too much info. I sure hope I haven't made it even more confusing. Thanks much! Ed
Good advice, Sam, and thanks! I have a 1/2" steb center and also use it for exotic wood when making pens and ice cream scoop sized items. I have a four bladed drive center, but rarely use it as it is too large for small turnings. Sometimes, I even use my chuck to hold square stock so I can turn a tenon. When stepping up in size (say greater than 4" diameter or rough turning green wood), I use a wood worm screw or a glue block. In my opinion, these drive centers are perfect for small turning but are not suitable for heavy duty turning. Its great to have choices and use the right tool for the job.
Muy interesante, es una pena que tus vídeos no estén subtitulados al español, hay mucha gente de habla hispana que disfrutaría mucho de tus vídeos. Thank you!!!!!
I just realized the spur drive my lathe came with is missing the spring loaded center! I was wondering what those holes were... I assumed to unscrew the drive when I first got it (hahaha, I know.) How do you get these drives out of the lathe? I dont have a thru hole to use a pin with haha.
A pretty simple and effective method that I have used for years is to draw lines corner to corner on the end grain and then use a small handsaw to cut a 1/8 inch deep kerf along those lines, creating an X of saw kerfs on the end of the wood blank. It is then very easy to line up that those two kerfs with the spurs on the drive center and tighten the quill for a very solid drive connection.
If one is turning between centers and wood management is not a problem. I drill a hole with a foster bit the o/s diameter to a 1/4 inch deep to act as a safety collar!
Thanks for the video. This seems to be the only video dedicated to the various spur drives. I just bought a secondhand JET mini that was missing the drive spur so this will help me to buy the correct one. Can you recommend a brand? Or one to stay away from? Thanks
Your video is very helpful, i am a metal lathe worker, now i will make the spur drive that i will fit in the lathe chuck, I hope so wood turning might be easier for me
I particularly like the knock out bar tip, Sam, and hate to see turners abusing their Morse tapers with a metal hammer. My original spur drive was a two pronged accessory, and I was taught it should be used on green wood, to avoid splitting by four pronged versions. Regarding using saw kerfs, many four pronged tools have offset wings, so this has to be taken into account. For that I made a slotted template and use a small bench chisel, whilst generally preferring Stebcentres at each end, and taking care not to overload the headstock thrust bearing. Bernard.
Enjoyed the video. Wish you had given us the manufacturers names of the drives. I need a rugged drive used on end grain aspen and can't find one larger than 1". Do you have any recommendations? Thanks
Thanks so much for the video Sam. Very helpful. Great tips, especially the knock "in" bar technique. When the project prohibits use of the jaw, screw chuck or face-plate, what live centers would you recommend for harder woods? My Sorby's barely make a dent in oak for instance, making them useless.
Al Be Yes this can be an issue and cause your very hard wood to split. Just cut a cross in the end of your blank with a had saw or band saw. They with a spur drive you can locate it in the shallow saw curfs. Sam
Very good review of the various types of drive centers. Interesting use of the knock out bar. I'll have to remember that. Also mentioning that the use of a cone center could split the workpiece. Two points you didn't mention about steb centers. The center is spring loaded similarly to several of the other drives you featured. And the steb center allows the work piece to slip in the case of a serious catch. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and you and Cheryle stay healthy.
Matt, Nice catch on the oneway drive. Yes I did "alter" it a bit. I could never make it work. I does now. I suppose it is more of a spur drive. But again, it is cool that you noticed. Thanks Sam
Hi. Sam. I haven't used a spur drive since I purchased a Safety Spindle Drive promoted by Alan Lacer, it's saved me from several monumental catches... I highly recommend it to all turners especially beginners.. It serves well to get your wood down to fit a chuck. Otherwise I use a faceplate, much safer than a spur.. I also recommend beginners to turning to invest if finances allow to purchase several sizes in chuck jaws. I use from100mm down to 9mm then you can turn your tenon to suit a jaw size. wolfgang
Sam, I glad you went over this again. I got rid of the old Sears lathe and got a new to mini. It is a world of difference. I never used the full size of the old lathe and found that single pole - well let's say I am glad it is gone.
Thanks for passing on the idea of using the knock-out bar to set the drive center
Thank you so much Sam. Don’t know where I’d be without your help. Probably the ER
Thanks very much. Sam
Good tips. Thanks Sam!
Thanks, Sam, great explanation!
Sam, with very hard woods I will often use a small drill bit and drill a small depression (1/8") in the end of the blank for the point of the Steb center. This is a way to ensure the point has a good lock on center and is less likely to split the blank.
Good advice.....But Old Geezer seems a bit harsh. How about, middle aged dude? Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Middle age Geezer? I only wish...
Thanks for sharing that!
Great info to show the wife as to why I need to buy more equiptment. 😉
Hi Sam Yet another informative video. Great Job. I as a inexperienced turner had a piece jump off of the lathe .I believe that I had tightened the drive center and the tailstock was also tensioned but the piece still came free. One of my fellow turners suggested drilling a depression 1/16 to 1/8 inch deep with a forstner bit the same diameter as my spur center to help to keep the piece in place. I thought the suggestion was worth sharing.
Yes this is a great idea....I actually do this when I have to put the spur drive into bark. I drill through it to get to solid wood. Thanks Sam
Wonderful advice Sam. I feel this helps a lot. Now I would really like to hear more of your thoughts on rotating live centers. There are so many on the market and its so tempting to get one (or two) of each. Thanks!
I am not sure what "rotating" live center means.....don't all live centers rotate? I need more info.
Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Sorry for being confusing. I'm not a good communicator. I guess I should have used the word revolving. There are several sizes of revolving stebcenters , revolving cone centers, slimline revolving centers. nova makes a revolving live center, oneway makes a revolving live center and I use the one from Robust and the one that came with my Jet lathe. There are cups, bullnose cones, pointy cones and several really small points. There is also a big variation in prices. There seems to be a big difference in bearing quality. I like to stay with respected brands but they tend to be more expensive. By now you are probably thinking, alright, too much info. I sure hope I haven't made it even more confusing. Thanks much! Ed
@@tick_magnetedschaper5611 Thanks for the reply.... lot of terminology out there. Sam
Good advice, Sam, and thanks! I have a 1/2" steb center and also use it for exotic wood when making pens and ice cream scoop sized items. I have a four bladed drive center, but rarely use it as it is too large for small turnings. Sometimes, I even use my chuck to hold square stock so I can turn a tenon. When stepping up in size (say greater than 4" diameter or rough turning green wood), I use a wood worm screw or a glue block. In my opinion, these drive centers are perfect for small turning but are not suitable for heavy duty turning. Its great to have choices and use the right tool for the job.
Just curious why do you have 2 identical spur drives?
He said don't ask him, ha ha ha!
Probably because he has more than one lathe and may need it in two lathes at the same time?
@@thomasarussellsr Yea, not sure.....But I do have 4 lathes and I do like this spur drive very much. Sam
Muy interesante, es una pena que tus vídeos no estén subtitulados al español, hay mucha gente de habla hispana que disfrutaría mucho de tus vídeos. Thank you!!!!!
Thanks, I will checkout the subtitulados Sam
23rd.
Can you give me a this job sir please
Enjoyed the video, but some sound drifted in and out.
Thanks for the heads up. Sam
I just realized the spur drive my lathe came with is missing the spring loaded center! I was wondering what those holes were... I assumed to unscrew the drive when I first got it (hahaha, I know.) How do you get these drives out of the lathe? I dont have a thru hole to use a pin with haha.
Some spur drives don't actually have the spring behind the point. Sam
A pretty simple and effective method that I have used for years is to draw lines corner to corner on the end grain and then use a small handsaw to cut a 1/8 inch deep kerf along those lines, creating an X of saw kerfs on the end of the wood blank. It is then very easy to line up that those two kerfs with the spurs on the drive center and tighten the quill for a very solid drive connection.
If one is turning between centers and wood management is not a problem. I drill a hole with a foster bit the o/s diameter to a 1/4 inch deep to act as a safety collar!
Thanks for the video. This seems to be the only video dedicated to the various spur drives. I just bought a secondhand JET mini that was missing the drive spur so this will help me to buy the correct one. Can you recommend a brand? Or one to stay away from? Thanks
Awesome! I'm a newbie and just learned something. Thanks
Lesson learned!
Your video is very helpful, i am a metal lathe worker, now i will make the spur drive that i will fit in the lathe chuck, I hope so wood turning might be easier for me
I particularly like the knock out bar tip, Sam, and hate to see turners abusing their Morse tapers with a metal hammer. My original spur drive was a two pronged accessory, and I was taught it should be used on green wood, to avoid splitting by four pronged versions. Regarding using saw kerfs, many four pronged tools have offset wings, so this has to be taken into account. For that I made a slotted template and use a small bench chisel, whilst generally preferring Stebcentres at each end, and taking care not to overload the headstock thrust bearing. Bernard.
I was not aware that some some spur drives are odd-set. Maybe I just never really looked. Thanks Sam
That should read OFF set.....
Enjoyed the video. Wish you had given us the manufacturers names of the drives. I need a rugged drive used on end grain aspen and can't find one larger than 1". Do you have any recommendations? Thanks
Thanks so much for the video Sam. Very helpful. Great tips, especially the knock "in" bar technique. When the project prohibits use of the jaw, screw chuck or face-plate, what live centers would you recommend for harder woods? My Sorby's barely make a dent in oak for instance, making them useless.
Al Be Yes this can be an issue and cause your very hard wood to split. Just cut a cross in the end of your blank with a had saw or band saw. They with a spur drive you can locate it in the shallow saw curfs. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Thanks for the advice, Sam. And again thanks for the videos!
Very good review of the various types of drive centers. Interesting use of the knock out bar. I'll have to remember that. Also mentioning that the use of a cone center could split the workpiece. Two points you didn't mention about steb centers. The center is spring loaded similarly to several of the other drives you featured. And the steb center allows the work piece to slip in the case of a serious catch. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and you and Cheryle stay healthy.
Thanks Glen. You make two good points. Especially about the step center. Thanks for watching..... Sam
An aftermarket steb centre is my centre of choice. Especially when I'm using a skew chisel.
Yep, I really like the step centers Sam
U murdered that one-way safety drive center, I hope that was student error?
Matt, Nice catch on the oneway drive. Yes I did "alter" it a bit. I could never make it work. I does now. I suppose it is more of a spur drive. But again, it is cool that you noticed. Thanks Sam
Hi. Sam. I haven't used a spur drive since I purchased a Safety Spindle Drive promoted by Alan Lacer, it's saved me from several monumental catches... I highly recommend it to all turners especially beginners..
It serves well to get your wood down to fit a chuck. Otherwise I use a faceplate, much safer than a spur..
I also recommend beginners to turning to invest if finances allow to purchase several sizes in chuck jaws.
I use from100mm down to 9mm then you can turn your tenon to suit a jaw size. wolfgang